Wipe down Process

The wipe down process should be carried out both before to ensure a surface that is free of any debris and after to ensure that defects have been removed as opposed to masked by any lubrication oils or fillers left behind after the polishing process. The wipe-down process may need to be repeated to ensure a perfectly ‘clean’, debris free surface

Wiping the finish with a micro fibre cloth you may feel that the swirls have been removed, only to have them reappear after the surface has been washed. After polishing a section, mist and wipe to fully remove residues and reveal the true paint finish. Nothing worse than a client having paid for paint renovation to wash the paint surface and then have paint marring reappear

·         Polymer sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a paint surface if there are any silicone or synthetic oils present, they will also negatively affect durability if not removed

·         Silicone will cause surface smearing and will affect abrasives effectiveness, product  bonding and durability (See also Silicone Removal

Water-based polishes tend to fill far less than oil-based; but they both contain silicone resins and polymer or wax lubricants. A wipe down after polishing or compounding is used to remove the carrier oils and wax used for surface lubrication and allows you to inspect the surface to determine if the surface is defect free or if further work is required.

When polishing or compounding to remove fine swirls or holograms, it's easy for residues and / or waxes or oils to settle in the swirls, hiding the true paint finish (drop back).

Prior to the application of a paint protection coating it is absolutely necessary to remove any (mostly invisible to the naked eye) fillers and oils; if they are allowed to remain a white or grey hazing will appear on the paint once the coating is applied.

It’s the one thing that keeps those who practice paint correction honest. Paint enhancement (glaze or an oil-based wax) anybody can do. But paint correction is a lot harder and IPA (or equivalent) is a liquid lie detector

Evaporation [: vaporization of a liquid that occurs from the surface of a liquid into a gaseous phase]

Isopropyl alcohol

[Anhydrous Isopropyl alcohol [Molecular formula C₃H₈O] for all-purpose cleaning, isopropyl alcohol, is a colourless liquid with a pleasant odour, and is highly flammable. A miscible clear fluid, Flash point 53.⁰F (12.⁰C) closed cup]

Reagent isopropanol alcohol, whether a technical, surgical or analytical grade will be X % isopropanol alcohol, the remaining percentage will be made up with water and is available as a 70 to 95 percent % solution.

The term "rubbing alcohol" has become a general non-specific term for either isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) or ethyl alcohol (ethanol) Rubbing-alcohol products can leave a residue behind It is prepared from a special denatured alcohol solution and contains 97.5-100% by volume of pure, concentrated ethanol (ethyl alcohol) or reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

Be cognizant that modern paint systems are porous, so be cautious as to what solvents you use. Dependent upon the particulate size, some chemicals penetrate easily, only liquids that are smaller on a molecular level than the cross-linked paint can be absorbed; solvents and alcohol can permeate the paint causing the paint to temporarily swell hiding surface scratches and marring

Reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and or other solvents will permeate the paint, causing both temporary softening and some swelling. Depending on the solvent (strength) used and the amount of ambient heat, the amount of swelling varies. (See also “Paint (Solvent / Alcohol) Swelling”)

 Using undiluted reagent isopropyl alcohol, even 70% IPA can soften the paint excessively, but as you increase the dilution, the softening drops exponentially, this softening effect is temporary. Using an abrasive polish on solvent softened or ‘swollen’ paint may cause the paint film to wrinkle or delaminate (tear or separate)

For less dense (soft) clear coat, the lower rate of dilution (1:10) is recommended; conversely denser (dense) clear coat should use a higher dilution (1:25); as you increase the dilution rate of reagent isopropyl alcohol its paint softening effect drops exponentially. The reason for this wide range is due to the variations in clear coat paint systems

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA is a fast evaporating solvent, which usually fully evaporate at temperatures above 80.^OF , whereas , slower evaporating solvents like mineral spirits  may take several days before they reach levels below 1%.

Reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is readily available and like acetone, it dissolves a wide range of non-polar compounds. It is also relatively non-toxic and evaporates quickly. Thus it is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid [1]

Mineral oil can be used to clean heavier oil stains by diluting and liquefying the other oils, rendering the oils more accessible to detergents. Likewise, it can be employed to de-gum, to remove adhesive residue left by adhesive tape. Be cognizant that while it can be used as a solvent cleaner it can leave a residue, which is undesirable for paint cleaning applications.

Denatured alcohol (or Methylated spirits) - is ethanol that has additives to make it more poisonous or unpalatable, and thus, undrinkable. Do not use denatured alcohol as a substitute for reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

Use caution if using paint thinner / strong solvent as there is a possibility that it can have detrimental long term effects, which cause the paint matrix to fail over time leaving a dull area that has a similar appearance to strikethrough, which cannot be corrected

MSDS - http://telecheminternational.com/IPA_Reagent_ACS.PDF

Distilled water

Potable water usually contains a number of microscopic contaminants (turbidity) along with dissolved minerals such as calcium and iron. Distilled water should ideally be nothing but hydrogen and oxygen molecules and virtually all of its impurities are removed through distillation, which involves boiling the water and re-condensing the steam into a clean container (pH 6.0 – 7.5)

Any dissolved solids such as salt, bacteria, calcium or iron remain solid while the pure water converts to a much lighter steam and is drawn out for condensation, leaving most if not all solid contaminants behind. Distilled water is preferred for dilution as it’s a ‘known’ quality, unlike domestic potable water

In larger chemical and biological laboratories, as well as industry, cheaper alternatives such as deionised water are preferred over distilled water.

Wipe down Application Process

Application - fill a fine misting spray bottle with a dilute solution of reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water Spray the surface you have just polished and allow the solution sit for approximately 15 seconds. If it flashes too quickly (hot surface or environment) use further dilution

Reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and or other solvents will suspend waxes and silicones, and then re-depositing them, this can be avoided by adding 10% d-limonene (P21S Total Auto Wash) to the dilute IPA solution and wiping the surface with a clean, dry micro fibre towel.  (TAW will provide surface lubrication to minimise surface marring on less dense (softer) paints)

Agitate the area with a clean panel wipe or a  soft 100% cotton micro fibre towel (you may need to repeat this process) change the towel to a fresh quarter after each panel to ensure oil and debris are not re-deposited and observe.

This should have removed any wax or oils that may have filled any remaining swirls and show the true post-polish surface condition.

If a diluted IPA solution doesn’t remove the surface oils perhaps a specific paint preparation product, i.e.  CarPro Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser or DuPont PrepSol II™ may be more suitable

Now using your surface inspection light, shine the light directly on the panel and look for fine swirls. If they are still present, you should be able to see them. If not you will see a clear bright reflection from the panel with a great shine, and clarity

These fast acting solvent cleaners will not leave a film residue

·         CarPro Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser

·         DuPont PrepSol II™

·         Menzerna Top Inspection

·         Wurth Clean Solve

Mineral Spirits (White Spirit) are a petrochemical based product (Stoddard solvent) it also contains oils, so its use in a paint wipedown process is self-defeating as you’ll need to remove the oils from the surface

Notes:

1.      For dense (hard) clear coat use a very light dilution rate, for less dense(soft)clear coats use a more diluted solution, as  use too much alcohol will cause a micro fibre to offer more surface resistance and may cause surface marring.

2.      After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s)  have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection  be applied immediately.

Alternative products

·         3M™ Prep Solvent-70 (#08983) is a low VOC, water- based solvent used to remove oils, wax, grease, and silicone from surfaces prior to the application of a coating. Effectively cleans metal, primed metal and painted surfaces. Use with 3M™ Panel Wipes (#4567) the Panel Wipes have excellent absorbency and are super strength when wet or dry. They are easy to carry and are supplied in an easy to dispense box.

·         CarPro Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser - is anti-static, reagent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) based cleaner designed to dissolve oil particles and remove polish residue to inspect the surface after polishing or to prepare the paintwork for the application of a coating product. Its intense cleaner dissolves oils and it also attracts the dust left by compounding. When you wipe down your vehicle with Eraser, you’re removing oils, fillers, and dust completely. Enabling a coating to form a stronger bond and create an even, long-lasting shine with a more durable protection.

·         DuPont PrepSol II™ - http://www.xurex.com/products.html) spray onto a 100% cotton or a micro fibre towel and clean the surface

 Groit’s Paint Prep - to remove wax, silicone polymers and oil from painted surfaces so products can properly bond to the surface. Paint Prep is easy to use and is safe for vinyl and rubber (not for use on glass)

·         Hi-Temp's H-23 Prep Wash - to prepare a paint surface for polishing, compounding, wax and / or polymer sealant application (especially if changing from a wax to a polymer product) this is a water-based paint cleaner designed to remove all traces of silicone, oil, and buffing residue from any exterior paint surface

·         Menzerna Top Inspection (PP95) – use to inspect your work, use this water-based cleaner that removes dust left by compounding and any lubricating oils so you can see the real results of your work. There are no silicones or fillers, just cleaning agents to uncover the real condition of your vehicle’s paint

·         Optimum Power Clean - Optimum Power Clean™ is an environmentally friendly, all surface-safe cleaner, used for paint dilute it 2:1

·         Wurth Clean Solve - is a fast acting cleaner and solvent that will not leave a film residue. It will quickly remove wax, tar, gum, grease, paint overspray, adhesive, oil, and silicone. It can be used on a variety of surfaces including: base coat, clear coat, aluminium, fibreglass, glass, fabrics and vinyl.

 Relevant Articles

1.      1. “A new perspective on paint defect return”, Jason Rose from Meguiar’s - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/112084-new-perspective-paint-defect-return-interesting.html

2.  2.     “IPA Wipe down”,  David Ghodoussi - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/40688-ipa-wipe-down.html

The Physics of Polishing

Physics (from Ancient Greek: φύσις physis "nature") [: a natural science that involves the study of matter and its motion through space and time, along with related concepts such as energy and force.]

 Backing Plate / Pad Motion

The benefits of a large orbit or elliptical offset is that more centripetal force is created as the backing plate orbits, so the backing plate will rotate more than a similar machine featuring a smaller elliptical offset. A machine featuring a large stroke delivers increased speed of backing plate motion using the same orbits per minute. A large stroke elliptical offset increases movement of the baking plate / pad; therefore levelling is more consistent. This type of pad movement helps to remove residue (oxidized paint, spent abrasives, etc) more readily than a small elliptical offset

A majority of random orbital machines use an elliptical offset between 1/8 -5/16 - inch (approximately 3.0-8.0 mm). It is generally accepted that a smaller stroke leaves a more refined finish, but experience shows that this type of movement doesn't readily clear (oxidized paint, spent abrasives, etc ) polishing debris, thereby blocking the pores of the pad and placing debris between the pad and the paints surface negatively impacting the abrasive

Surface (Contact) Area

The distance around the circle is a circumference. The distance across the circle is the diameter (d). The radius (r) is the distance from the centre to a point on the circle. (π = 3.14), d = 2(r), c = π d = 2 (p) r, A = π(r) ² Even a minor change in pad diameter makes a big difference in surface area.

A pad should be designed to efficiently use its surface area. Foam pads that have lines, squares, circles, or dimples cut out of the pad face, means there is less actual surface area in contact with the paint surface. 

Area = (r²) 6-inch pad area = 18.842 sq.ins, a 4-inch pad 12.46 sq.ins.

Kinetic (Heat) and machine energy (Speed) and surface pressure applied over a smaller area, which results in faster correction. A further consideration of pad diameter has to do with distribution of the machine weight and applied pressure.

Another design parameter that determines how much surface area actually contacts the paint when using foam pads is the amount of pores per inch it features (commonly referred to as PPI). More pores, larger pores, thinner walls between the pores, or how stiff the walls are all affect how much foam contacts the paint during the buffing process

Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) which ensures a consistent pressure over the surface contact area, this is the most effective tool for paint defect removal because of its linear process you abrade the paint surface flat until the defects are removed.

Pad Velocity (Speed)

The larger the pad, the greater the pad velocity at an identical RPM; V = RPM (Area) A - 6.5-inch = 20.423 sq.ins V= 24,507 inches per minute (IPM) Pad velocity is also substantially increased with a larger diameter pad, which increase its abrasive ability at the outer edge; 8-inch =25.136 sq.ins. V= 30,163 RPM

Pressure / Pad Compression

Depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with, increase pressure is necessary; otherwise most of the kinetic energy of the machine will be absorbed by the pad (especially foam) and not transferred to the paint surface.

Just remember that more pressure equals more aggressive, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary.

The required pressure applied to obtain optimum results to adequately compress the pad (50%) and obtain uniform abrasion is usually in the range of 10 – 15 lbs. (a random orbital buffer will stall at approximately 20 pounds of applied force) use just enough pressure to keep the pad rotating at 1-2 rotations per second.

To compress a 6-inch pad 50% requires you increase the total force by the ratio of its surface areas; 

Ratio = [π (radius²)] / [π (radius²)] = 2.25 as much force, almost 34 pounds).

With the smaller pad you're applying the same force, at a constant speed but over a smaller, more concentrated area, which will induce friction and greater abrasion abilities to the polish, both these abilities require a certain amount of caution as it’s possible to abrasion burn the paint.

Constant Pressure™ Foam Pads have a layer of engineered, instant rebound foam between the pad and the backing plate. This layer acts as a cushion or shock absorber between the machine, the operator and the surface being worked on. It absorbs off-axis motion while maintaining a constant and uniform pressure on the surface; Lake Country Mfg Constant Pressure™" technology allows even a neophyte detailer to achieve professional-like results.

Foam Pad Size (Area and Applied Pressure)

Different pad sizes can have an impact on how the buffer breaks down a polish, as it applies its dynamic friction over less area, control, better manoeuvrability, and how fast you can cover an area.

Smaller pads in general will offer you more control with any machine polisher, as it can reduce the tendency for the buffer to hop or skip on the paint. Smaller pads also make it easier to manoeuvre buffers in tighter areas and closer to trim pieces.

The low profile 5.5 inch buffing pads pack the same CCS technology and performance into a compact, highly effective size that works best with dual action polishers and air sanders. Use with a 5 - inch moulded urethane backing plate for excellent flexibility and balance by Lake Country (LC) manufacturing

Assuming equal speed, radius and foam compression (50% - 15 pounds of force applied) the difference between 4- inch and 6 - inch pads is their different surface area = π (r²) (4-inch = 12.46 sq.ins / 6-inch = 28.26 sq.ins) and therefore surface kinetic (or dynamic) friction applied and surface pressure applied; 4-inch = 3.75 lbs per sq.ins. -  6-inch = 2.5 lbs per sq.ins.  Even a minor change in pad diameter makes a big difference in surface area.

Actual Speed (RPM)

Formula - RPM (C) = V

Speed = Revolutions per minute, C = circumference (2(π) (r)), V = velocity

Area 7.5 -inch at 1,800 rpm (usable area 6- inches)

Speed - 1,800 (rpm) (6" diameter times pi = 6” x 3.14) x 18.84    = 33,912.

So, using the same formula, and a problem of: X (unknown rpm) x 25.12 (8" diameter times pi = 8” x 3.14) = 33,912) then; 33,912 / 25.12 = 1,350 actual speed rpm

Kinetic Friction

 [ : when contacting surfaces move relative to each other, the friction between the two surfaces converts kinetic energy into thermal energy, or heat]

Friction is the force resisting the relative lateral (tangential) motion of solid surfaces, fluid layers, or material elements in contact. It is usually subdivided into several varieties:

Dry friction is also subdivided into static friction between non-moving surfaces, and kinetic friction (sometimes called sliding friction or dynamic friction) between moving surfaces.

Force diagram

Arrows are vectors indicating directions and magnitudes of forces. W is the force of weight, N is the normal force, F is an applied force of unidentified type, and Ff is the force of kinetic friction which is equal to the coefficient of kinetic friction times the normal force. Since the magnitude of the applied force is greater than the magnitude of the force of kinetic friction opposing it, the block is moving to the left.

Heat from Kinetic (or dynamic) Friction

[Energy in a system may take on various forms (e.g. kinetic, potential, heat, light). Kinetic friction, or surface resistance induced heat; an often misunderstood concept of polishing / compounding; abrasives require friction to breakdown, not heat; heat is just a resultant of friction between two surfaces. Kinetic friction is required to ‘level’ paint, which is simply the removal of paint to the lowest point of the paint defect] [1]

Energy in a system may take on various forms (e.g. kinetic, potential, heat, light). Kinetic friction, or surface resistance induced heat; an often misunderstood concept of polishing / compounding; abrasives require friction to breakdown, not heat; heat is just a resultant of friction between two surfaces, besides the most commonly used abrasives include varieties of aluminium oxide, silicon carbide, diatomaceous earth, clay, and silica, to produce enough heat to cause a reduction in size would harm the paint. Kinetic friction is required to ‘level’ paint, which is simply the removal of paint to the lowest point of the paint defect.

A finishing pad will not provide as much friction as a cutting foam pad (less surface resistance) although they will both produce friction induced heat, whereas a wool pad, due to their composition, creates less friction induced heat but more kinetic friction (due to its fibrous structure) than most foam pads.

Polishing a paint surfaces transfer’s kinetic friction induced heat to the paint surface, thermoplastic polymers have both tensile strength (a linear stress-strain relationship) and elongation (elasticity) which allow the surface to flex, expand and contract in accordance to surrounding temperatures, solvents, resins and other ingredients in polishes will expand causing the paint film surface to expand

As the metal substrate expands the paint moves with it, due to its elasticity, thereby becoming elongated (thinner) this is part of the cause of friction induced ‘burn’, you’re applying pressure and an abrasive to a less dense (‘thinner’) paint surface, excess friction induced heat can cause the paint surface to burn, blister, haze, and cause excessive swirls

Plastic has a much lower rate of thermal conductivity than metal, so it absorbs heats at a far greater rate.

Polishes and compounds do not need heat per se for the abrasives to polish a surface, wither they be diminishing or non-diminishing abrasive, they require both pressure and friction

Kinetic Friction induced heat can cause a rapid temperature rise; (i.e. initial surface temp 80.oF, friction heat attained with the polisher stationary and a cutting foam pad at 1,100 RPM for approx. ten seconds the friction induced heat attained would be around 104.oF) the paint temperature can be checked by utilizing an instant read-out infra-red ‘gun type’ digital thermometer, paint surface ‘spot’ temperature should be limited to 110.^oF 

In accordance with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) a localized (spot) temperature of  115.^oF will cause the urethane clear coat to soften and the foam pad will cause scratching that is forced deep into the clear coat.(See also the first law of thermodynamics et al) [/I]

Polishing Freshly Applied Paint

When a urethane clear coat is sprayed its outermost surface, measuring a few nanometres in thickness, sustains microscopic fractures when it comes into contact with air. These fractures are microns or nanometres in width and thus too small to be seen with the unaided eye.

Freshly applied paint that in the outgas stage, is still full of evaporating solvents, and is usually less dense (soft) despite the additives used (hardener) once a catalyst, kinetic energy (friction heat) is added, it causes the paint film to expand, temporarily hiding scratches, this is often the reason for a body-shops bad reputation of returning vehicles that have sanding scratches in newly applied paint that should have been removed.

Be cognizant when polishing newly applied paint the kinetic energy (heat) from a foam pad can also cause solvent engorgement, which causes the paint film to thin due to the expansion of the evaporating gases, applied rotational force may also cause the paint to tear Kinetic friction (heat) is transferred to a solvent (IPA or fresh paint solvents) causing it to both expand (Charles' law; also known as the law of volumes) the paint film and soften it.

Automotive paint is classified as a semi-permeable membrane; it has both tensile strength and elongation (elasticity) newly painted surfaces are soft and full of out gassing solvents, resin binders and additives, as well as and water.

Polish contains solvents, which soften the paint film, kinetic surface friction and applied downward pressure transfers its energy into heat / torque (force to rotate an object about an axis), which could result in the alteration of the paint films bond between its substrate, causing it to delaminate or tear?   

The ideal Gas Law 

Boyle's law and Charles's law, known as the ideal gas law is often introduced in its common form (pV = nRT), which states that  heat makes the gasses expand, and the expanding gases go through a phase transition (change in density) and to relive this increased pressure they (a) rupture the paint film surface, causing small fissures (similar to solvent pop) The heat may cause the gaseous vapours to expand, but not enough to break through the hardening clear coat.   Once the vapour has evaporated, it may leave a void between the basecoat and the clear.  Therefore you have a cloudy spot where the clear and base is no longer adhered together. If this is the case, the clear coat will delaminate in the future.

Once the outgas process is complete automotive coatings (paint) becomes a semi-solid permeable membrane, Being a polymer (elastomer) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract to follow temperature fluctuations of the substrate (elongation). Kinetic friction and its associated heat can cause a rapid temperature rise (i.e.. initial surface temp 80.^oF, heat attained with a cutting foam pad at 1,100 RPM for approx. ten seconds is approx. 104.^oF) the paint temperature can be checked by utilizing an instant read-out infra-red ‘gun’ thermometer, paint surface ‘spot’ temperature should be limited to 110.^oF <

Applied Pressure

The pad needs to have an even distribution of pressure applied to it; depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with, increase pressure as necessary. Just remember that more pressure equals more aggressive, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces

Maintain the same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary.

The required pressure applied to obtain optimum results to adequately compress the pad (50%) and obtain uniform abrasion is usually in the range of 10 – 15 lbs. (a random orbital buffer will stall at approximately 20 pounds of applied force) To compress a 6-inch pad 50% requires you increase the total force by the ratio of its surface areas

Ratio = [π (radius2)] / [π (radius2)] = 2.25 as much force, almost 34 psi). With the smaller pad you're applying the same force, at a constant speed but over a smaller, more concentrated area, which will induce  an increase in friction and greater abrasion abilities to the polish / pad combination, both these abilities require a certain amount of caution as it’s possible to ‘strike through’ (friction burn)  the paint.

Mohs relative hardness

Hardness

So how can a dense (hard) clear coat be so easily scratched?

It’s a matter of physics, not material density (material hardness). Force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material.

Newton's third law of motion [: when a first body exerts a force F₁ on a second body, the second body simultaneously exerts a force F₂ = −F¹ on the first body. This means that _F1 and F₂ are equal in magnitude and opposite in direction]

That’s why a micro fine thread that is twice as fine as silk and a 100 times finer than a human hair, in an otherwise soft towel will scratch your paint. And the same reason a mosquito can penetrate a rhino hide with its proboscis (stinger).

If you press down on your paint finish with your palm it feels really hard and tough, but that’s because the surface area of your palm is relatively large and what you’re actually feeling is the resistance of the steel underneath the paint. Try pressing your thumb nail into the paint with the same amount of force you used with your palm, if you dare.

Relevant Articles

1.      “Paint (Solvent / Alcohol) Swelling “-http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136812-paint-solvent-alcohol-swelling.html

2.      “Wipe down (Scratch lie detector test) Process” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/137115-wipedown-scratch-lie-detector-test-process.html

Leather covered steering wheel:cleaning / care

As the skin of your hands are in contact with bare leather, perspiration and body oils are both acidic , which along with any dirt and grime will become absorbed. Besides staining your leather, it will also make it shiny and can also can weaken and break down the stitching as well as the leather, degrading the finished leather,  leading to ultimate failure.

Leather covered steering wheel:

Steering wheels have an extra coating of protective finish on the already finished or coated leather. Perspiration and dirt are absorbed readily into the dry leather, and combined with the ultra violet (UV-B) radiation of the sun a chemical reaction occurs that degrades the finished leather. All of us have seen this wear on steering wheels

A finished leather steering wheel is protected with a urethane clear top coat. UV heat will allow any dirt / grease to become embedded and the surface becomes more soiled the abrasive dirt / grit produces a shine.

Using leather oil-based conditioners on finished leather may cause delamination from the leather substrate. As the oils will permeate the leather via the stitching or any micro-cracks in the surface, once oil gets between the urethane and the substrate it causes loss of adhesion (See also Oil and Oil based Products)

Most manufacturer’s advice against using oil-based conditioners on steering wheels as it makes the surface slippery and could be dangerous if you lose control of the vehicles steering

1.      Clean the wheel’s leather surface with a leather cleaner (Leather Masters™ Strong Effect Cleaner ) or a    d-limonen (citrus) based de-greaser (P21S Total Auto Wash) diluted 5:1 with warm distilled water in a spray bottle; dependant upon type and extent of soil or stain

2.      For oil or grease stains use Leather Masters™ Leather Degreaser (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is ideal for cleaning this type of stain as it dissolves the oils and transforms them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather.

3.      This powder is what is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are still a lot of oils in the leather.

Using a Medium / hard horse hair brush, or a soft sponge, spray and work the cleaner into a foam, lightly scrub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove excess moisture, especially around stitching (you may need to repeat this process).

4.      Then use a compressed air nozzle to dry

5.      Once wheel is thoroughly dry apply Leather Masters™ Leather Protection

Do not use an abrasive on the surface as you’ll remove the ultra violet protective topcoat

            Maintenance – hydrate the leather surface with a damp 100% cotton towel, occasionally use a diluted 1:10  degreaser  (Leather Masters™ Leather Degreaser ) solution and distilled water to remove any build-up of body oils from your hands

The DCT Motorsports factory -  eighteen years of experience refinishing steering wheels and developing unique aero parts for high end vehicles.

They complete all work orders in-house which allows them to accept a wide range of customer’s requests. Customers can specify material colours, materials, patterns, Carbon weave, or almost any type of finish. DCT has full control of every single step in the manufacturing process, so they can assure the best finish quality and fulfil the work orders with minimum lead time

Suede Covered Steering Wheel

Often perspiration / body oils will cause the nap to become flattened, in most cases it can be revived simply by cleaning with the correct chemicals (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) and using a napping brush. As a general rule when cleaning you should only to use products specifically designed for this type of fabric; avoid using a product designed for cleaning leather.

It's also important to do a patch test before cleaning any fabric to make sure the colour or integrity of the fabric won't be damaged. To do this, apply your cleaning product to an inconspicuous area to see what the effect will be.

Use a napping brush to raise the pile and loosen / separate the fibres. Remove pilling with a single-sided razor blade and then apply a suitable cleaning solution on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (do not over-wet the fabric or use wet steam).

Cracked Leather Coating

Clear-Cote is a protective coating for newly refinished leather or vinyl.  It provides a durable, washable surface for any leather or vinyl upholstery; available in original gloss or matte finish. Use a very fine 2000 grit finishing paper to provide a ‘key’ for the clear coat. Apply two thin coats as oppose to one heavy coat, allow to dry thoroughly – Color-Plus

Leather Stitching

Its greatest enemies are; sun, heat, oil (including body oils) perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and Try to avoid getting leather chemicals on the stitching or in the seams as it can discolour some threads. If the chemical gets in between panels, it may be difficult to get it out. This may even weaken the backing at the seams.

Leather stitching is usually cotton and nylon mix, nylon is attacked by solvents, they melt it and weaken the threads. An oil-based product will attract abrasive dirt / grit and permeated the leather via the stitching, the oil will soften the leather, and the abrasive dirt plus friction may cause the leather to tear and / or the stitching to fail. Do not use harsh solvent-based cleaners as this may cause the stitching to fail over time

Stitching is somewhat friable if subjected to excessive abrasion. Bearing this in mind the cleaner and applicator (a semi-soft toothbrush is ideal) needs to ‘do the work’ without relying on excess friction

a)      Clean stitching using a medium / hard horse hair brush, a toothbrush or a sponge, spray and work the aqueous (water- based) cleaner (Leather Masters™ Strong Effect Cleaner ); don't spray on the wheel surfaces , spray on the brush, constantly rinse the brush in clean water, remove cleaner by rinsing with clean water.

b)      Use an aqueous (water- based) foaming cleaner;  Leather Masters™ Foam Cleaner, shake aerosol thoroughly and then lightly rub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove excess moisture. You may need to repeat this process.

Once the stitching and the seating surfaces are clean apply Leather Masters™ Leather Protection this will help to keep the stitching clean and inhibit the ingress of dirt and soil

Cleaning

If the stitching and finished leather surfaces are different colours try to avoid allowing any pigmentation to dry on the stitching; to remove wipe with a water-based solvent cleaner. Leather stitching is usually cotton and nylon mix, nylon is attacked by harsh petroleum distillate solvents, they melt it and weaken the threads, which may cause the stitching to fail over time

Stitching is somewhat friable if subjected to excessive abrasion, bearing this in mind the cleaner needs to ‘do the work’ without relying on friction.

To renovate / clean stitching using a medium / hard horse hair brush, a toothbrush or a sponge and a safe solvent cleaner (DT-1105) this chemical is formulated from several types of alcohol and milder based solvents and it will remove all dressings, protectants, waxes and oils from the surface. And then remove all traces of the solvent / alcohol with a foam cleaner Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner

Leather Master™ Leather Degreaser - is an aerosol product for cleaning oily stains; it dissolves and removes oil and grease from finished leather surfaces. This cleaner can be applied for cleaning all types of leather (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is ideal for cleaning this type of stain as it dissolves the oils and transforms them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather. This powder is what is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are still a lot of oils in the leather.

Relevant Articles

1.      “Leather Articles Hyperlinks” http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141973-leather-articles-hyperlinks.html

2.       “Leather Steering Wheel Renovation” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/139916-leather-steering-wheel-renovation.html

3.      “Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136421-proper-finished-leather-cleaning-care.html