Alcantara® Cleaning and Care

Alcantara® Ultra suede™, Ecsaine, Micro suede, etc) are not types of leather but are in fact in synthetic materials, it can be described as an artificial substitute for suede leather, made from extremely fine polyester micro fibre (68% polyester and 32% urethane) it has the appearance and tactile feel similar to that of suede, and it may be incorrectly identified as such.

Alcantara is a trade name given to a composite material used to cover surfaces and forms in a variety of applications. It can be described as an artificial substitute for suede leather. The material was developed in the early 1970s by Miyoshi Okamoto, a scientist working for the Japanese chemical company Toray Industries, as a variation of their other product Ultra suede produced around the same time. Around 1972, a joint venture between Italian chemical company ENI and Toray formed Alcantara SpA in order to manufacture and distribute the material

Ultra suede or Alcantara is finding application in seating as well as dash trimming, steering wheel covering and headliners in many high-end OEM automotive applications

Synthetic fabrics are often manufactured with a brushed or napped finish to resemble suede leather. These products often provide a similar look and feel to suede, but have advantages such as increased liquid or stain resistance, and may appeal to consumers who prefer a non-animal product.

Identifying characteristics - these materials are very soft to the touch and will scratch or scuff very easily.

The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will darken the surface and will remain dark or leave a water mark after drying.

Water absorbency rate – high, due to the potential damage caused by water foam cleaners are highly recommended

Well known for its use in top marque automobiles such as Aston Martin, BMW and Ferrari, this material is both hard wearing, luxurious and stylish. Suede is rarely used for automobile upholstery, however Nubuck or a synthetic known as Alcantara® or Ultra suede™ is commonly found in sports luxury vehicles; on the steering wheel, armrests and seat inserts both for aesthetic purposes and grip (on the seats and steering wheel) and the headliner, it is highly absorbent, creating a texture similar to velvet, many people confuse this product with suede leather.

Often a ‘worn’ Alcantara ® covering is caused by the nap becoming flattened, in most cases it can be revived simply by cleaning with the correct chemicals and using a napping brush. As a general rule when cleaning Alcantara ®, etc you should only to use products specifically designed for this type of fabric. Avoid using a product designed for cleaning leather. It's also important to do a patch test before cleaning any fabric to make sure the colour or integrity of the fabric won't be damaged. To do this, apply your cleaning product to an inconspicuous area to see what the effect will be.

Use a napping brush to raise the pile and loosen/separate the fibres. Remove pilling with a single-sided razor blade and then apply a suitable cleaning solution on to an applicator pad and apply to one area at a time (do not over-wet the fabric or use wet steam). 

Cleaning

Localized stains can be treated with a Limonene (citrus) based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) ensure the surface is dry before use by leaving a window cracked/open. Avoid alcohol, strong solvents or spirit based cleaners (particularly perchloroethylene and trichloroethylene). When cleaning a surface with finished leather / Alcantara, tape of the Alcantara to avoid cross contamination by products.

General stain removal standards

· act immediately

· reduce the stain by working from the edge towards the centre, in order to avoid spreading

· gently remove most of the dirt using a knife or spoon and blot immediately with a clean white cloth

· once the stain has been spotted, act in accordance with the instructions in the table

· if using a solvent, never apply directly to the stained material,  but on a clean terry weave towel

· after applying the stain remover, remove with a clean, dry cloth, then brush in the opposite direction to pile lay

· allow to dry thoroughly

· when dry restore pile with a soft brush

Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner (N-Nubuck /  Alcantara ®, Ecsaine, Micro suede and Perforated Aniline leather ) that is designed to gently lift general soiling without any need for significant wetting of the surfaces being cleaned. A solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains on Alcantara ®, Nubuck, brushed aniline suede and perforated leathers. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. This cleaner is an aerosol version of Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner.

Application - after removing any loose dirt or dust by brushing the nap with a soft napping brush to loosen and separate the fibres, especially in areas that have become matted with body oils, constantly moving the brush to avoid over scrubbing one spot, remove pilling carefully with a single-sided razor or battery operated fuzz remover.

Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds. Foam contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil.

Then gently agitate surface with the sponge, rinsing frequently and adding more product as required. For heavily soiled areas, or where the leather has become ingrained such as in creases in the leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt.

Remove excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. If the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the surface. Check the results and repeat process as necessary. Air dry seating areas or steering wheel with a low-heat air gun/ hair dryer

Protection

Leather Master™ Nubuck Eco Protector (N-Nubuck / Alcantara®) Nubuck /Suede Protectant are a water based product for highly sensitive leathers fibrous materials, it took several years to perfect, and was difficult to formulate due to the potential damage caused by water. It may be used on furniture, clothing, shoes, and accessories.

Eco-Protector provides an oil, water and alcohol barrier on Nubuck and suede. This unique formula is a step forward from the previous Leather Master Aerosol protectant. In fact, it has several advantages over all aerosol protectants - non-flammable and very safe for consumer use, environmentally safe, solvent free formula.

Application Instructions:

If needed, pre-clean with Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner (N-Nubuck /  Alcantara®  ®, Ecsaine, Micro suede and Perforated Aniline leather ) is a solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains on Alcantara®  ®, Nubuck, brushed aniline suede and perforated leathers. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. This cleaner is an aerosol version of Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner.

• Adjust spray to finest mist setting and spray no less than 12 inches from the surface of the leather.

• It is much better to apply two light coats than a single heavy application.

• Allow leather to completely dry. You may speed this up with a hair dryer on mild heat.

• Lightly rub over the surface with a terry covered sponge to maximize & restore the surface.

• Reapply every 6 months after cleaning.

Maintenance- in order to preserve your upholstery, vigorous cleaning of accumulated dirt should be avoided as dirt/grit is abrasive and may damage the finish.

It is therefore recommended that regular cleaning is carried out by brushing seating areas with a soft upholstery brush and then vacuuming to remove dust and loose dirt. Avoid rubbing too strongly. The use of vapour steam is preferred.  (Do not use wet steam or 303 Space Protectant on Alcantara®)

Weekly

Dust the fabric using a soft upholstery brush, and then vacuum. Then run a lightly damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel over the surface to remove any small dust particles.

Alternative products - Swissvax Alcantara Cleaner

Associated Articles

“Reference sources and bibliography used for leather articles” 

“Leather Articles Hyperlinks” 

Unfinished vs. Finished leather

Section through automobile leather upholstery

Prior to 1980 most automotive leather upholstery used was high-quality top grain full grain leather with a pigmented solvent-based Nitrocellulose lacquer coating and their unstable plasticizers would easily migrate in the heat from sun exposure and again create 'fogging' on the internal surfaces of the windows. As a result of this plasticizer migration the use of oil-based products that contained solvents to keep them from becoming brittle and cracking, creams, waxes and oils were needed in aftercare products to try and bring the suppleness back into the leather

By applying an oil-based conditioner and allowing time for it to work in a heated environment. By covering the seats with a plastic bag to help retain the heat and then leave overnight will ensure the oils permeate the lacquer and reach the leather hide. This process can also be used for equestrian tack; bridles, harnesses’, saddle and leather chaps and riding boots

Automotive leather and finished leather surfaces have undergone major technological improvements over the past few decades. The leather used for automotive upholstery is finished leather; the ‘finish’ applied to the leather hide is a pigmented (colour) urethane protective layer and a clear abrasion resistant topcoat.

Unfinished vs. Finished leather

a) Unfinished leather - the appeal of this type of leather is its initial "natural" look and the soft, supple texture. The downside is aesthetic vulnerability; due to the porous nature of untreated leather, it stains easily and it is sensitive to ultra violet (UV) light, which means that the colour is subject to photochemical degradation (bleaching, (fading), discoloration, chalking, brittleness and cracking) all indications of UV deterioration. The porous nature of unfinished leather will allow a water- or oil-based solution to permeate the leather.

b) Finished or micro pigmented leather - is commonly used for the automobile as these resins create a film that protects the leather. This 150µ (micron) protective covering comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish 

The water-based urethane pigmented (colour) coat and the clear topcoat provides abrasion and stain resistance. This type of leather finish is the most durable and easiest to care for but tends to be stiffer than both unfinished and micro pigmented leather. When Ford first introduced its King Ranch leather in their F-Series trucks it had unfinished leather, later they adopted a micro pigment type finish

Using advanced micro pigments this finishing technique makes the finish rigorous enough to stand up to the conditions it would be subjected to in an automobile. Generally speaking, micro pigment style leathers come in very earthy natural colours, incorporating a small quantity of pigment (a thin clear sealant that provides a uniform colour and affords some protection) but not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics of the hide so it will still retain the soft hand of Aniline leather. This type of leather is also used for perforated leather finishes.

Top-grain premium Aniline leather is mostly used in prestige European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, and Rolls Royce, US Cadillac and high-end German automobiles such as; Audi, BMW, Daimler AG, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche.

 For some of these vehicles premium leather is standard OEM specified equipment, but for most, it’s a ‘premium’ package that costs upwards of 2,000 USD. This is the niche market sector both Leatherique and Connolly were originally formulated for.

Be cognizant that most if not all OEM leather in these vehicles is now a semi-aniline (micro pigmented) finished leather Is a term used by the auto leather industry to better describe leather with a thin urethane layer of pigment coating, which provides an even colour and both abrasion and stain resistance. As opposed to the mislabelled Aniline leather (aniline is a dye (immersion) method, not a leather type), which will absorb body oils and moisture and would be subject to abrasion unless it has been treated in some way.

I hope you’ve found this article both informative and helpful.

TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki Articles

1. “Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification” 

2.  “Leather Articles Hyperlinks” 

Forced Rotation Random Orbital Polisher

The same safety feature which reduces the possibility of damage from a dual action polisher also prevents it from removing very deep scratches. While a dual action polisher will improve the appearance of scratches and remove most swirls, it does not produce enough kinetic energy (heat) to cut deep into the paint.

If you need deeper scratch removal, this will require a forced rotation or rotary polisher.

Keep in mind, these polishes in inexperienced hands can quickly ‘burn’ the paint. Especially on panel edges. The pad spins at high speeds and it's up to the operator to keep the polisher moving at all times. If the polisher lingers for too long on one spot, it can burn through the paint.

Forced Rotation Dual action machine has both a centrifugal and a centripetal motion (RPM) and a direct drive orbital (OPM) motion with forced rotation, which means that the back plate rotates by a gear mechanism in a forced circular motion, as the back plate rotates it also oscillates in a random pattern. One action is the circular rotation and the second action is the random movement of the backing plate while it is rotating.

This type of motion is 50% faster at accomplishing the desired results than a dual action machine.

What makes this type of movement ‘safe’ is the comparatively lower torque electric motor on these units, so that it's virtually impossible to apply too much-concentrated pressure in one place at one time

. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.

Forced rotation means that the buffing head oscillates at the same time it's rotating. DA polishers do the same thing but with forced rotation, it uses a direct drive to force the pad to both rotate and oscillate with no allowance for slippage.

Forced rotation requires that the operator pay close attention and have a steady hand to control the machine, this is a more powerful polisher than a dual action polisher.Because of its design, it more
similar power normally associated with direct drive rotary buffers but the in-built safety of dual action polishers

. It is almost impossible to ‘burn’ or install paint swirls as long as you use approved pads and products. A forced rotation polisher exhibits the best of both worlds.

Forced rotation is a little harder for a neophyte to learn than a dual action polisher, but the transition is very easy if you're already familiar with dual action polishers. If you're used to using a rotary buffer, it won't take you long to see the differences.

A forced rotation polisher (Flex 3401) polisher is a German engineered forced rotation action. Featuring VR microprocessor control with tacho generator constant speed control, soft start, continuous speed control trigger, restart protection after power failure, overload protection, temperature monitoring and speed selection. Ideal for professional and enthusiast details alike

Forced rotation is ideal for:

* Detailers who have used dual action polishers and are ready for the next step.

* Detailers who are new to machine polishing but able to learn quickly.

* Detailers looking for a safe, but more powerful polisher as compared to a traditional orbital buffer.

* Anyone wanting to start a part-time or full-time detailing business.

* Anyone with a detailing business that wants to add a multi-purpose tool to their detailing arsenal.

* Detailers that work in body shops looking for a tool to ensure a swirl-free finish.

* Boat Detailers/owners looking for a better way to maintain their boat.

* Airplane detailers/owners looking for a safer, faster way to maintain their aeroplanes' finishes.

* Vehicle with dense (hard) paint forced rotation will provide a far better finish.

I've used them on a few German vehicles and along with Menzerna diminishing abrasives, it is more than adequate.

* The smooth running produces a flawless and hologram-free finish

* Forced rotation offers far more correction ability than a dual action polisher 

Repairing / Renovation of Scratched or Curbed Wheel

Aluminium corrosion

Aluminium alloys are alloys in which aluminium is the predominant metal. The highly reactive nature of aluminium metal is normally masked by the protective oxide film (White rust), which readily forms in moist air and renders the metal kinetically stable. Galvanic corrosion can occur when an aluminium alloy is placed in electrical contact with other metals with a more negative corrosion potential than aluminium.

· Thoroughly clean the affected surfaces of all soil and grease residues with a d-limonene (citrus) based solvent cleaner (P21S® Total Auto Wash) prior to processing.  

· Brush it down with a wire brush to get rid of all the powder.

· Clean the surface with PrepSol and then sand any scratched or damaged areas with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminium oxide grain,) 60, 80 or 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a rubber sanding block.

· Use a tack rag and wipe the area, using a light pressure

· Then treat with etch primer, maybe two or more coats.

· Follow with ordinary primer and top coat.

Repairing Scratched or Curbed Wheels

Damage to your wheels can come from: curb damage, wheel weight scratches, low acid spray, lug nut impact wrench, auto accident, and road salt, which leads to oxidation. These blemishes can ruin the appearance of your car; refurbishment can help retain its value.

Replacement  costs for allowing wheels can cost  hundreds of dollars, but the restoration of your scuffed alloys and scraped wheel rims makes your whole car look pristine again

• Wheel Collision Center –http//:www.wheelcollision.com/

• Wheels America  8004-Fix-Rim – Powder coat Finish -  http://www.wheelsamerica.com

• Mobile Wheel Repair (US, UK) - http://www.mobilewheelrepair.com/

• Wheel Repair UK - http://www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk/...ce_details.php.

Be cognizant that serious damage to a wheel may affect the vehicle’s alignment and subsequent steering, always check for structural damage (i.e. surface cracks) or deformed rims, which should always be replaced. Shop cosmetic/appearance wheel repair- approx. $150 –250 per wheel, usually 48 hours (dependent upon geographical area)

These procedures are for aesthetic and slight damage only

Taking the wheel(s) off makes it far easier to work on and much more comfortable than stooping down

Small Scuff Repairs (Alloy Wheels)

Time: 4 – 6 hours per wheel for a complete wheel-off repair and repaint renovation. Materials-2-17 oz. Wurth Clean-Solve, 2-10.2 oz. 1Z Einszett Spray Paint Primer "Haft-Grund", 2-13.5 oz. 1Z Einszett Silver Wheel Spray Paint, 2- 13.5 oz. Wurth High Gloss Clear Lacquer, 14 oz. Bondo®  (approx total 90 USD)

See also Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

• Remove the damaged wheel from vehicle.

• Deflate the tyre by unscrewing cap and pushing in valve, once the tyre is flat push the tyre wall down (gently) by standing on it, and then  tuck masking tape underneath the wheel rim, working your way around slowly

• Molecular Tech Coatings Inc., EFS-2500 aircraft paint stripper is environment-friendly. It can get easily decomposed and is also non-toxic as well. In terms of chemical composition, there is no methylene chloride, no carbonic acid, and no formic acid present in the paint stripper. Hence, it is perfectly safe to use.

• Clean the damaged area with PrepSol and then sand the scratched or damaged area with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminium oxide grain) 60, 80 or 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a rubber sanding block.

• Use a tack rag and wipe the area, using a light pressure

• Only use filler (Bondo Lightweight Filler 264 and Red Cream Hardener) if it’s essential to the e repair, if used incorrectly it will flake and significantly reduce the effective lifespan of the repair. Fill any minor indentations with Bondo, allowing approx 30 minutes before you shape/sand

• Sand the wheels until you've removed the scratches, `kerbing' marks and/or smoothed the Bondo filler flush with the wheel surface.

• Continue the sanding process using finer and finer grades of UniGrit paper, 220 or 320 grit and finally with 500-grit paper.

• For small hard to reach places use a Dremel Rotary Tool and a suitable sanding bit

(For painting / refinishing wheel surface see “Refinishing”)

Repairing a Damaged Polished Aluminium Lip

Dremel 3000 Variable Speed Rotary Tool, plus accessories-  kit # 697-- #952 CONE shaped Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone and - #413 Sanding Discs 240 GRIT

1. Using the Dremel on its lowest setting with the (#952) Cone shaped stone and grind down the burrs to as near smooth as you can.

2. Change attachments to the (#413) Sanding discs and smooth the surfaces

3. Start by using 800 grit finishing paper and then work through 1000, 1500 and finally 2500.

4. Using #0000 synthetic steel wool to bring back the shine

5. Finally, finish polishing with OPT Optimum Metal Polish

6. Use a clear polymer  protection (OPT Optimum Opti-Coat)

Removing Surface Scratches:

The clear coat on wheel surfaces is usually thicker than that of the main paint surfaces but check with a PTG before you start to polish.

Use a 6-inch wool pad and a polishing compound (polish selected is dependent upon the extent of damage) it may take a few passes; follow with a foam pad and a finishing polish.

Felt Polishing Cones - if you're faced with polishing tight places, try some versatile polishing wheels. They come in various sizes and shapes to complete just about every polishing project-wheel, intake manifolds. Fitted to an electric drill they will quickly restore an ‘as-new’ OEM finish.

Surface Preparation

· Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause them to warp.

· Hose off as much initial grime as you can.

· Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.

· Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants

· Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash  to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing

· Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and let soak in (for badly soiled surfaces us P21S®-Red (422) or Sonax Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt

· Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the clear coated parts)

· Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off

Refinishing

See also Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Be cognizant that most European OEM wheels are powder coated so paint won’t be an exact match. Place the can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes prior to spraying. This lowers its viscosity and it will spread more evenly without ‘runs’, it also raises the temperature of the air inside, which in turn  increases the pressure, enabling a much better spray ‘pattern’ resulting in a better finish.

• Remove the damaged wheel from vehicle.

• Deflate the tyre by unscrewing cap and pushing in valve, once the tyre is flat push the tyre wall down (gently) by standing on it, and then  tuck masking tape underneath the wheel rim, working your way around slowly

• Molecular Tech Coatings Inc., EFS-2500 aircraft paint stripper is environment-friendly. It can get easily decomposed and is also non-toxic as well. In terms of chemical composition, there is no methylene chloride, no carbonic acid, and no formic acid present in the paint stripper. Hence, it is perfectly safe to use.

• Clean the damaged area with PrepSol and then sand the scratched or damaged area with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminium oxide grain) 60, 80 and finishing with 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a rubber sanding block.

• Tack clothes help control dust by picking it up off the surface and also helps eliminate static that attracts dust. Use a tack rag and wipe the area, using a light pressure

• Only use filler (Bondo Lightweight Filler 264 and Red Cream Hardener) if it’s essential to the repair, if used incorrectly it will flake and significantly reduce the effective lifespan of the repair. Fill any minor indentations with Bondo, allowing approx 30 minutes before you shape/sand

• Sand the wheels until you've removed the scratches, `kerbing' marks and/or smoothed the Bondo filler flush with the wheel surface.

• Continue the sanding process using finer and finer grades of UniGrit paper, 220 or 320 grit and finally with 500-grit paper.

• For small hard to reach places use a Dremel Tool and a suitable sanding bit

Note- If the above cleaning method don’t finish to wheels to your liking have them bead blasted

Repainting (cast aluminium ) Wheel Surface

See also Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

OEM Factory wheel finishes are either an acrylic polymer or a polyester powder coat process, which is the most durable finish you can use. The following will result in a durable re-finished repaint colour match

· Molecular Tech Coatings Inc., EFS-2500 aircraft paint stripper is environment-friendly. It can get easily decomposed and is also non-toxic as well. In terms of chemical composition, there is no methylene chloride, no carbonic acid, and no formic acid present in the paint stripper. Hence, it is perfectly safe to use.

· Prepare the surface by removing all sandpaper residues with a tack rag, wash the surface and then dry thoroughly.

· Use 3M Painters Masking Tape between the tyre and the wheel rim (or use Vaseline to mask the tyre from paint overspray)

· Wipe-down the wheels with DuPont Prep Sol and allow to air dry.

· Apply a thin coat of 1z 'Haft-Grund' Self-etching Primer to stabilize and provide an etched surface.

· Use at temperatures between 70 – 90.^oF (.Do not use this paint in damp conditions)

· Shake the can well for at least a full minute

· Push the spray nozzle as you sweep across and release at the end.  

· Spray on, spray off.  Spray on, spray off; apply as a very fine/thin coat.   

· Paint the wheels with two thin coats of silver alloy paint (Wurth German Alloy Silver Wheel) to ensure complete coverage

· Apply your first coat of clear then allow it to dry to the touch before applying your next coats. This ‘tack coat will help stop the paint from sliding into ‘run’ formation.

· Allow air-drying; 1-2 hours on final coat and then lightly sand finish, then leave to cure overnight.

· Finish with a clear lacquer paint (Wurth European Blend Lacquers) apply two or three thin coats of clear with about 20-30 minutes of drying time between coats to seal the silver metallic paint and add depth and gloss

· A allow clear coat to air-dry and then cure for 4-6 hours

· Apply a sealant for protection

· If your axle/ wheel centres (hats) are cast iron, you may want to consider painting the hat area with some hi-temp black engine paint

Product details

Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, VW, and most other European OEMs use a cast aluminium alloy wheels. They're usually painted (Titanium) silver and have a clear coated finish or have a silver powder coated finish

1. 1z 'Haft-Grund' Self-etching Primer - bare metal (steel or aluminium) wheels should be primed first with a self' -etching primer and is lead and cadmium-free Applied under a topcoat of urethane paint provides a secondary method of protecting the steel from corrosion. This primer bonds to bare metal and forms a base suitable for synthetic resin, acrylic lacquer and nitro combination paints. A single can will prime two wheels

Warning - Do not use this primer on painted or clear-coated wheels where you are touching-up scuffs and scrapes. A self-etching Primer is for use only on wheels that have been taken down to bare metal.

2. Wurth German Alloy Silver Wheel Paint (Aerosol) can be used as a spot touch-up or whole wheel repaints, one can is enough to coat two complete wheels. This paint is unusually user-friendly, it’s a fast-drying lacquer that matches the standard wheel paint or powder coated finish used by Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, VW, Audi and most other European OEMs. One aerosol restores two complete wheels. to match the OEM gloss of new vehicles

3. Wurth European Blend Lacquers (Aerosol) - used for all German (silver) painted wheels, to match the OEM gloss of new vehicles. This paint is unusually user-friendly, it’s a fast-drying lacquer that matches the standard allow wheel paint use by Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, VW, Audi and most other European OEMs. Wurth German Alloy Silver Wheel Lacquer can be effectively used for spot repairs or full wheel restoration. One can is enough to coat two complete wheels. For the best results, use at temperatures between 70 and 90.⁰F

Prevention is better than cure

Protect Your Alloy Wheels from Kerb Damage - RimPro-Tec 

Selecting a Professional Detailer

If you are considering having someone detail your car, I would urge you to use the same judgement you would in any other area of your car's maintenance, and treat with suspicion anybody offering a really low price. Don’t automatically assume that anyone that calls themselves a professional detailer is, in fact, a pro. Some have passed themselves off as competent professionals by stealing images of work done by others without their permission.

It may well be in your best interest to talk to a detailer who has a proven track record of satisfied customers as well as the relevant insurances, and someone offering a lower quote might not.

Request a reputable detailer’s name (s) on one of the detailing forums. Once you’ve selected a detailer to be specific about what services you require (i.e. full vehicle detail, exterior paint renovation, interior detailing, etc) 

It requires an exchange of information between the consumer and the shop so that the extent of each detail and the estimated cost, a vehicle drop-off and collection time are clearly established before work commences.

A successful outcome will rely on good communication between you and the chosen professional. You want someone that makes you feel at ease with the process, someone that you can easily trust. They should be able to answer your questions in simple easy to understand terms, not techno speak so that you understand what needs to be done, and the benefits.

Listen to their suggestions.  The more that things can be explained and agreed upon, the more at ease that they can make you feel, and the more confident that you can be in their ability to meet or exceed your expectations.

An accurate estimate can only be given when the professional is able to see the vehicle and ascertain your expectations, a phone-quote can only be a ball-park figure. Many professionals will need 10+ hours of work to transform your vehicle back to like-new condition

Some things you may want to consider

· Look for a courteous staff willing to answer all of your questions.

· Look for policies regarding estimates, labour rates or pricing, guarantees, acceptable methods of payment, etc.

· A Professional Detailer should have been in (full-time) business for at least one year

· Should have business licensed and be state registered

· Ensure they have adequate insurance cover (including Public Liability) and that they are a registered business

· Obtain (telephone number) references from three recent clients and check them

· How long they have been in business

· Check with the local Better Business Bureau  

· Ask them where they received their training and what products they use.

· Ask the prospective detailer for photographs of vehicles they have done recently (most detailers have a portfolio) or they may have photos posted on detailing forums of their work on similar models

· Ask them their detailing ‘steps’ this will indicate exactly what you are paying for

· Ask them what detailing products they use (known brand names are preferable)

· Do they offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee?

· Discuss a price and if satisfied set-up an appointment

· If they quote a very low price it could reflect the quality of service offered.

After Care

Provide tips on avoiding scratches by proper washing and drying techniques and any other tips they can give to maintain the finish on your vehicle. Client education in the aesthetic care of their vehicle should be equally as important as the detailing. The most common cause of surface scratches is washing the car improperly or using unsuitable washing media so I would suggest they explain or demonstrate the correct vehicle paint washing technique.

 Detailing Pricing Guide

As with most other things, the price of automotive detailing varies by quite a wide margin. Many more people are concerned with perceived value (a cheap price) as opposed to quality; the secret is to sell quality over price while keeping in mind client needs.

The cost of having a professional perform a detailing job on your vehicle will vary by geographical region, the experience and reputation of the detailer, and the condition of your vehicle, and your expectations of the finished detail, among other factors. Most detailers will offer a specified package of services that are included in their standard prices, and generally will provide additional services on request for an additional fee.

Detailing

Exterior (8 hours)

· Wash and dry exterior paint – 1.5

· Detailer’s clay – 1.0

· Tyres and Wheel surfaces – 0.5

· Clean exterior glass – 0.5

· Clean and lightly polish paint – 1.5  

· Wax or seal paint -1.0

· Clean and protect rubber seals – 0.5

· Exhaust, tyres and trim etc 1.5 hours

Interior (4.5 hours)

· Brush and Vacuum carpets – 0.5

· Shampoo mats – 0.5

· Shampoo / extract carpet – 1.0

· Clean upholstery – 1.0

· Apply protection to vinyl and leather – 0.5

· Clean interior glass -0.5

· Deodorize interior - 10 min

· Protect carpet and upholstery – 0.5

This level of detail on an average sized and condition vehicle would take approx 13 hours, a larger vehicle will obviously take more time, most professional detailers will charge between $400 and $550 to do this level of work. 

Depending on location/skill level / /reputation, to transform a vehicle back to ‘like-new condition; so expect to pay a fair price for the amount of work involved.

Detailing Checklist

1. Inspect the vehicle

2. Note any serious scratches, stains or tears to interior materials

3. Adhesive residue, tree sap, bug spatters

4. Leaves, debris in jambs and cowlings

5. Remove all trash from interior including trunk, ashtray (place small change in Ziploc bag) and seat folds

6. Note stains or heavily soiled carpet or upholstery

7. Pre-spot and brush stained or heavily soiled areas

8. Clean wheels and wheel wells

9. Clean engine

10. Remove tar and/or adhesive residue

11. Wash vehicle

12. Clay vehicle if needed

13. Remove tree sap if needed

14. Polish and apply paint protection

15. Remove any polish residue

16. Dress tires

17. Interior cleaning:

18. Remove all items from interior and place in a Ziploc bag

19. Vacuum all surfaces

20. Pre-soak carpet and upholstery stains

21. Scrub stained areas with brush

22. Finish cleaning carpet and upholstery and apply fabric guard

23. Clean all interior surfaces, vinyl, and leather

24. Dress all interior surfaces

25. Clean interior and exterior glass

26. Replace all items in vehicle (Ziploc bag)

27. Final vehicle inspection

Paint Renovation / Restoration

Surface preparation for polish/compounding

· Wash 1 – 1.5 hours

· Paint surface decontamination 2 -2.5 hours

· Detailer’s clay 1.5 hours

· Rinse and dry surface 2 -2.5

Paint correction details- as a basic guide for each stage

Test panel – 2-3 hours

Compound 8 – 10 hours

Polishing 10 – 12 hours per stage

Wipe down process 2 -3 hours

Finishing 8 – 10 hours

Wet-sanding 3 – 4 hours per panel.

Sanding a painted surface is a very labour intensive way to eliminate orange peel or other paint surface problems; this method can take an entire day to sand and polish a vehicle properly ($1200 +)