Fabric Upholstery Cleaning

Basic Cleaning Requirements

Test cleaner on an inconspicuous area then allowing it to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the surface, is the best way to ensure there are no surprises as to its effect, but be cognizant that it may not react in exactly the same way as a heavily soiled area or that has been subjected to UV-B radiation (faded)

Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.   Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's colour or texture.

Cleaning products (with the exception of glass cleaners) should be sprayed on to a folded 100% microfibre cotton towel, do not spray any cleaning product  directly to the surface, as this may cause ‘spot or streak’ clean patches on the surface

As with all detailing tasks; surface preparation is the most important first step. Products will bond to a substrate and therefore be more durable if applied to a properly cleaned and prepared surface. Most automotive fabric seats are synthetics acrylic or a polyester nylon as they are a durable fabric, but they react to cleaning solvents very differently than organic fabrics like cotton

 Three types of energy are required;

1. Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner

2. Kinetic (abrasion) energy provided by machine or hand

3. Thermal energy -provided by warm or hot water

To clean fabric seats and obtain the desired outcome;

· Use an upholstery brush to loosen dust and fibres

· Vacuum to remove loose dust etc

· Identify the material/fabric you are working with

· Identify the type of stain and/or soiling

· Use an appropriate pre-spray and allow sufficient time to work

· Use an enzyme type cleaner to remove odours

· For stains, first blot to remove any liquid and then use an appropriate stain remover

· Use a heated water extraction machine to remove excess moisture

· Rinse with clean water

· Dry thoroughly

· Apply a fabric protector

Use a high-quality cleaner, formulated without strong solvents and one that has a pH value between 4 and 10 (neither strongly acidic nor overtly alkaline).

Stains: The first thing you should do upon discovering a stain is to act immediately. Don’t wait because heat and/or time will just cause the stain to set in deeper, which will make it much harder to remove. Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access what ‘type’ of stain it is, before a stain can be removed the surface tension that bonds it must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed.

Classifying stains

a) Organic stains- these include proteins and fats, body oils, mould yeast, bacteria, bugs and carbohydrates. Most of the stains found in the vehicle interior are of an organic nature and require an alkaline type cleaner. Some organic stains (i.e. blood, vomit, urine) should be removed with an enzyme type cleaner and a disinfectant applied to the area

b) Non-Organic stains- mostly found on the exterior of the vehicle, hard water scale (calcium) lime deposits, Road tar, grease and oil film, and require an acidic type cleaner.

c) Petroleum soils - substances that do not contain water, nor are they miscible, these soil types include, motor oils, and crease and road tar, and require a solvent type cleaner.

        

Stain Types

a) Water Soluble Stains- These stains can be dissolved in cool water or loosened with water based cleaner, coffee; soft drinks, cocoa and chocolate are good examples.

b) Oil soluble stains- These are stains that are comprised of oily or greasy substances, which include cooking, oil from fried foods and suntan oil.

c) Combination Stains- These stains contain both water-based and oil-soluble properties. Cleaning these stains require treatment with a petroleum solvent followed by water-based cleaning solution.

d) Unidentifiable Stains- Sometimes stains cannot be identified. Treat these stains like a combination stain. Clean with a petroleum solvent followed by a water-based cleaner.

Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment

 Specific fabric stains

a)  Red Stains- Try to find out the source of the stain (Koolaid, Gatorade, Red wine, etc.) It is important to know the source of many old coffee or tea stains can look like red dye stains and many stains if treated improperly can "set" and then be a major task to remove

Removing Red Stains is one of the toughest to remove because usually a red food dye is used and if spilt on fabric or upholstery it will dye it. Use Red Stain Remover (topoftheline.com) is a unique formulation that removes super tough red stains. Spray the solution on the stain and agitated with a brush to make sure it has penetrated the fibre. Allow it to sit a few minutes to ensure the chemical "action" dissolves the dye.

Place a dry towel over the area and press with a hot iron, as the heat draws the dye to the towel so it can be lifted from the fabric. http://www.fabriclink.com/fabriccare.html

The process may take a couple of applications especially if the stain is old, or has been allowed to set for some time. Follow with a thorough by hand-cleaning using Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Cleaner, or with a carpet extractor. Once carpet is thoroughly dry protect it from future stains (using 303 Fabric Protector)

   b) Blood- remove the stain as soon as possible; if it sets it will be more difficult to remove, As a rule of thumb, you should never scrub a blood stain. Instead, you blot it to minimize the spread. As soon as you see there is a blood spot, blot the area and soak up as much as you can. Your car might have a tissue bag so burst it open and use the tissues to soak the blood up.

Do not press hard since it would push the blood down, instead work very slowly on the spot and try to remove as much blood as possible from the area. A smart way is to start from the edges and work your way towards the centre.

Sprinkle parts of cold water and club soda on the affected area. Do not apply hot water as that would dilute the blood and it might seep deep. For blood stains that are dry, you need to mix laundry detergent, cold water and glycerine to form a solution, 80% of which should be water. Glycerine and detergent should be used in equal proportion. Spray this solution on the blood stain and sponge it. Once the spot is removed, spray cold water to remove the solution.

Once the stain has been removed the area should also be treated with a disinfectant (Lysol™ Disinfectant). Take all necessary precautions when dealing with blood (latex gloves, and etc) and when disposing of blood-stained items.

Wipe down the area with a damp micro fibre towel and then remove blood stains using a 2:1 solution cold distilled water / Hydrogen peroxide, this will eliminate the stain and provide a disinfectant.  

Finally rinse the area with a damp micro fibre towel. Take all necessary precautions when dealing with bodily fluid stains (latex gloves and etc) and when disposing of soiled items.  

c) Wax (candle or crayon)- to remove melted wax from carpeting, place an absorbent paper towel folded 4-5 times over the wax and with a hot iron run it back and forth on the towel (renewing as required) this will re-liquefy the wax and the towel will absorb it. Repeat as necessary.

d) Pet Stains - Enzyme is specially formulated using enzyme action to eliminate odours caused by pet urine vomit to digest the stains and odours left behind by pet urine and faeces. (PETsMART)

e) Paint 

· Do not rub or use pressure on the affected area. Pat with a dry rag to gently wipe the paint away if the stain is very fresh.

· Clear away any excess paint by abrading  the surface of dried paint with a plastic (ScrapeRite blades) or single-sided razor blade

· Do not use paint thinner as it will cause the paint to migrate and ‘bleed’ producing a larger stain

·  Place a small amount of isopropyl alcohol or a non-oil-based nail polish remover, such as Acetone solvent on a sponge and blot the paint-stained area.

· Use a clean sponge to blot the previously stained area with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash, a Limonene (citrus based) cleaner to remove paint residue.

· Wait a few minutes. This will break up the compounds of the paint and make it easier to wipe off using any of the aforementioned methods

· Thoroughly rinse the area with clean water.

f) Bituminous Asphalt Stain Removal

a)  A solvent (Stoner™ Tarminator) can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum-based products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protect rant after use. Something else you can try is isopropyl alcohol (IPA) using a sponge or towels gently blot until the stain is lifted. Blot again with cool water to rinse. Dry with a thick towel.

b) A dry cleaning solvent will also remove asphalt, as with the alcohol, pour onto a sponge or cloth and blot. Keep blotting until the stain is lifted and then blot with cool water until all traces of the chemical is removed; blot dry with a thick towel.

g) Road Paint / Asphalt Remover- lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously. Use firm pressure and a lot of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application. Once you have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo or glass cleaner. A quick spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use on paint jobs less than 90 days old)The same technique can be used for old tar removal. If the first application doesn't remove it completely, apply a new wipe and repeat the process.

i) Grease / Oil – use a terry cloth towel to soak up any residue and then use a degreaser (Optimum Power Clean™) or a spot remover (303 Cleaner & Spot Remover™) work product into material with an upholstery brush. Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard) If you have access to a steam cleaner it will readily remove grease / oil

h) Coffee -remove from the surface as soon as possible as a coffee spill in the car may leave a permanent stain if left untreated, but coffee stain removal methods may help you restore your car seat fabric to its original colour. 

With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen, stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

· Absorb excess coffee from the area by blotting with a clean terry cloth towel

a) Spray the stain with a mixture of one part white distilled vinegar to two parts warm water then blot the liquid with a clean terry cloth towel. Repeat this until the stain lifts.

b) Mix a 1:1 solution of P21S® High-Performance Total Auto Wash with warm distilled water, if the vinegar treatment is ineffective, and dampen a sponge or white towel with the solution.

· Blot the stain with clean terry cloth towel to remove it, and then rinse the soap from the seat with a sponge and clean, cool water. Absorb any remaining liquid with cotton towels.

· Clean the stain with 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover™) following the manufacturer's instructions if the stain persists.

· Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard)

i) Protein Stain Remover (including blood)

Protein Stain Remover- the HT-67 will remove blood, urine pet, and food stains, but what makes it unique is its formulation. The stain remover is a highly concentrated, biodegradable powder that is designed to be mixed with an all-purpose cleaner. It will boost the cleaning power of a regular cleaner to a powerful, spot blasting level. A level breaks down the most stubborn, stains.

Mix 1/4 cup to a gallon diluted, HT-49 All-Purpose Cleaner. Spray on the stained area and let set for a few minutes. Scrub with a carpet/upholstery brush. Spray/rinse with water, let dry and vacuum.

    

j) Water Marks (Browning) 

Clean and extract as normal. Follow with a sprayed mist of a 'souring agent' to prevent browning, colour bleed and those awful 'watermarks'. Extract with plain water (no detergent). Pro's Choice "Browning Treatment" (formerly known as Brown Out) is an excellent treatment for water stains on upholstered furniture, caused by wet cleaning, and treatment of brownout on upholstery or carpet due to over-wetting. Simply apply full strength to the problem area. Wait to dry and then evaluate.  

Pro's Choice - https://www.proschoicesupply.com/products/?cat=Stain_Removal

Different cleaning methods to remove two different types of contaminants

1. Hot water and liquid soap to remove water-soluble contaminants:

Dirt, Mud

Road Salt

2. Wax and Grease Remover to remove solvent soluble contaminants:

Grease and Oil (Stoner’s Tarminator)

Road Tar ditto

Tree Sap ditto

Bird Droppings ditto

Wax and Polishes (DuPont Prepsol)

Silicone   ditto

With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

As can be seen, stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and manufacturers material safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. (See also Vehicle Interior Detailing, Solvents)

Fabric Upholstery Cleaning Methods

Alternative fabric upholstery cleaning methods

· Hand application

· Dry steam vapour

· Extractor System

· Tornador air/liquid cleaning tool

Using dry steam vapour

A system that produces a high temperature, low moisture vapour that contains only 5% to 6% water and is much less dense than air, a steam vapour system is equipped to safely produce thousands of gallons of live dry steam using only about 1.5 quarts of water per hour. It is mess free with temperatures hot enough to kill bacteria and germs, emulsify grease and oil as well as other surface contaminants. These units are best suited for light cleaning (covered leather or fabric upholstery) maintenance and spot removal.

Apply a cleaner to a sponge, work up foam and apply to the surface, then pass the steamer just above the top of the area just cleaned and lightly agitate with a micro fibre towel, then wipe dry. Steam vapour helps to emulsify the grime, while the foam encapsulates it. Steam, when it cools, turns to condensate (water) which helps to re-hydrate the hide

Using an Extractor System

 An extraction system process is the choice of professional detailers due to its cost-effectiveness, performance efficiency and time-saving over conventional methods. Extractors work by using a cleaning solution dispensed from a tank that heats the solution to 200oF+ and is sprayed at medium pressure (50 PSI +) and a high volume from the machine via a cleaning wand; it is then filtered and re-circulated.

The water is heated and pressurized, which produces a dry vapour. When the vapour leaves the nozzle it is then subjected to atmospheric pressure and expands (a phase change), vapour micro-molecules are able to penetrate the pores on any permeable surface. When the molecules come in contact with a surface they expand forcing any dirt, debris, and bacteria to the surface (steam vapour also kills bacteria) Dry vapour has a water content of about 5%, so the surface dries extremely quickly

Extraction also allows the ability to remove cleaning residues due to its high suction power (100-inch water gauge +). Rinsed fabrics look and smell cleaner and resist soiling better. I know ‘lesser’ machines may give the appearance of a clean interior, but in reality, the soil is being migrated the bottom of the carpet, this dampened soil will cause mould/mildew formation as the suction lift on lesser machines is pretty much non-existent. Mould uses enzymes to digest nutrients from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material and also down into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular pattern Dirt and moisture are essential to mildew propagation.

Pre-cleaner-

a) Organic stain removal- quarter (1/4) cup Protein Stain Remover (topoftheline.com) / 1-cup 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover / one gallon hot water let react for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

b) Other stain removals- 10:1 solution of P21S® Total Auto Wash and distilled hot water, let solution react for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

Methodology

· Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the material to raise the fibres

· Vacuum area very thoroughly (Metro Vac N' Blo®) to lift all the loose dirt from the carpet Remove any stains with 303™ Spot Remover & Cleaner 

· Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover)

· Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 solution of P21S® Total Auto Wash and distilled hot water, let solution react for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

· After sufficient react time agitate pre-cleaner solution with an upholstery brush to ‘scrub’ surfaces

· Use an extractor to clean and remove liquid and dirt. (Vapour Clean Products T5 Extractor / Spotter®) 

· Use a 16:1 solution clean distilled hot water 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover 

· Use a rubber bristle brush go over the material to raise the fibres

· The next step would be to use a high-volume vacuum, in one direction only (do not scrub) to remove the excess moisture and grime, immediately recovering it.

· Allow to thoroughly dry before use

· Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard)

Alternative products - Duragloss #451 FC (Fabric & Carpet Cleaner) This aerosol foam is a blend of surfactants, which gently foam away soil, oil and grease from fabric and carpet surfaces. Spot cleaning can be done without leaving rings on fabric and velour.

Notes:

1. Use a heated extractor on the newer ‘sport fabric’ seats as they use a fire retardant that will easily stain (sweat, water, etc)

2. Use the hottest water available it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets / mats

3. Run a 2:1 solution distilled water / distilled white vinegar thru the extractor either weekly, or after every ten fresh fills. Vinegar, contains Acetic acid, an organic carboxylic that will help eliminate scale, mild mineral deposits etc. from clogging your extractor.

4. Odour removal- add 4 ounces Door Terminator to each gallon of extractor solution. Clean interior glass after use to prevent spotting. (Automotive International - Valugard Product Line)

Upholstery Specialist Tool

Another alternative if you have access to a compressed air supply is the Tornador air/liquid cleaning tool- this product is totally unique; its air driven oscillating tip and nozzle creates a venturi (tornado) cleaning action that tackles some of the most challenging jobs. Save time and product costs. Clean dirty car interiors faster and better, for cleaning hard vinyl, plastic, storage pockets, cup holders, door jambs, seat belts, any nooks and crannies, consoles, dashboards, and other hard to reach areas of automotive interiors.

It uses a unique pressurized air process to spray a mixture of water and soap onto a dirty surface. After wiping area with a towel or brushing area simply turn a lever to air purge and help dry the cleaned surfaces. Requires a minimum air pressure of 5.0 CFM @ 60 to 90 PSI, for optimum performance (max 110 PSI) 

To clean any surface, dilute a cleaner (1:10 - P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash) as necessary; turn the liquid valve straight up and use an overlapping motion as you pass the gun over the surface.

If necessary, allow the cleaning liquid to react for 10-15 seconds. Use a microfiber towel to absorb excess liquid. Then turn the liquid valve off and use the compressed air to dry the cleaned area. Makes interior cleaning more efficient and easier but the expense of the tool and the required air supply just may make it a little too expensive for hobby detailers.

Metal Surface Polishing

It is important to be able to recognise the different metal finishes used as some OEM use different materials (stainless steel, polished chrome and etc) before choosing a product to clean or polish any metal surface you must be certain of the material used, as the correct care product requirements are vastly different. If in doubt as to the material used consult the manufacturer

· Aluminum alloys- aluminium is the predominant metal, typical alloying elements are copper, zinc, manganese, silicon, and magnesium. There are two principal classifications, namely casting alloys and wrought alloys-dull looking metal colour. Do not use P21 Total Auto Wash or S100 Bike Wash undiluted as it may discolour aluminium. 

· Magnesium alloy (Mags)- lightweight and  usually a very bright metal

· Anodized aluminium - many metals are structurally weakened by the oxidation process, but not aluminium. It can actually be made stronger and more durable through a process called 'anodizing'.

· Chrome (plating) - often referred to simply as chrome, is a technique of electroplating a thin layer of chromium onto a metal object

· Stainless steel – also known as inox steel from French "inoxydable", is defined as a steel alloy

· Wheel spokes - before polishing spokes make sure they're chrome, OEM spokes are thin cadmium plated and using an abrasive polish aggressively will remove the cadmium.

Cleanliness is Critical

Starting with a clean surface is the most important part of the polishing process. Any dirt on the wheel will be mixed in with the polish and will scratch while you are polishing. Wash and rinse the surface with a citrus based product (P21S Total Auto Wash or (P21s Polishing Soap-not intended for use on painted, clear coated or anodized surfaces) thoroughly dry the surface and wipe down with a solvent-based (DuPont PrepSol)

• Keep this area clean and free of used buffing pads and soiled cloths. A build-up of solvents, metal shavings and oil can be hazardous.

• Work in well-ventilated areas.

• Do not use polishes that contain anhydrous solvents, ammonia or acids on aluminium, brass, copper or bronze. These chemicals attack zinc and alloys, which are normally present in these metals.

• Clean the surface before you begin polishing. Even dust can cause scratching when rubbed across a surface.

• Work small areas at a time on large jobs as it's faster and it will give you a more consistent finish.

• Apply light pressure and take your time when applying polish or compounds. Let your machine and product do the work.

• Polish in the direction of the grain if the metal is rolled.

• Wipe down the surface with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) between buffing steps to remove cleaning residue. Buffing pad lines or polish residue inseams can be removed with flour.

• Wiping cloths should have no labels or sewn edges with plastic thread.

• Lightly mist the surface with distilled water before the final buffing step. This seals both metal, wax and helps reduce future water staining from rain and condensation.

All of the English Custom Metal Polishes (ECP) is highly concentrated for less waste. They contain micro abrasives to eliminate tedious rubbing, and wax protectants to retard oxidation. They offer one of the few true polishes for stainless steel. ECP has a reputation for excellent professional quality metal polishes and polishing supplies

Menzerna Polishing Cream

For all metals, precious metals, and plastics, the creamy metal polishes work without abrasives to remove oxidation and stains to uncover a brilliant reflective shine. Remove tarnish and discolouration from motorcycle pipes and forks the nonabrasive formula will gently clean and polish chrome without scratching. Leaves a clear protective film over the polished surface to prevent tarnishing, metal surfaces stay clean, shiny, and smooth with regular use

Exhaust Tailpipe

A squirt of WD40 or similar and a good rub with an old MF first of all. The light fraction hydrocarbon in the oil will dissolve some of the muck (which is soot ie carbon black + various incomplete combustion products) on the exhaust, which coupled with the mechanical cleaning of the MF may be all you need.

Spray down the inside and outside of the tips with P21S Total Auto Wash or P21S Polishing Soap, allow to dwell, it will start to break down the grime. To clean the outside parts of the exhaust use either a Mini E-Z Detail brush (they are perfect for cleaning the areas between dual-tips) or an old microfibre used strictly for dirty jobs and Optimum Metal Polish.

Use #0000 synthetic steel wool (very fine grade) with the P21S Total Auto Wash to clean out the insides of the exhaust tips. Polish using P21S Polishing Soap (not intended for use on painted, clear coated or anodized surfaces) and/or Optimum Metal Polish and #0000 synthetic steel wool on the insides of the tips Now move on to the outside of the tips once again with Optimum Metal Polish and an older microfiber towel that is no longer used for the painted surfaces, ensure to polish with the grain.

Chrome Exhaust

[Chrome plating is a finishing treatment utilizing the electrolytic deposition of chromium. The most common form of chrome plating is the thin, decorative bright chrome, which is typically a 10-µm layer over an underlying nickel plate. When plating on iron or steel, an underlying plating of copper allows the nickel to adhere. The pores (tiny holes) in the nickel and chromium layers also promote corrosion resistance.

Bright chrome imparts a mirror-like finish to items such as metal furniture frames and automotive trim. Thicker deposits, up to 1000 µm, are called hard chrome and are used in industrial equipment to reduce friction and wear.] 

Chrome is by far the most common brightwork on motorcycles as it holds a shine better than all other metals.  Chrome has a single enemy: rust.  Over time, chrome oxidizes and develops rust spots.  The higher quality the chrome plating, the more it will resist rusting, but eventually, it will happen.  If you allow the chrome to go too long without removing the rust, the chrome will become permanently pitted.

Removing rust and polishing chrome can usually restore chrome to a reasonable looking condition.  If the rust simply coats, and is not deeply embedded, the chrome should come back to life. As long as the chrome is not flaking off, you have a chance of saving it.

Use caution as the chrome plating is usually thin. Using chrome cleaner will remove the dulling that a car wash concentrate can’t. Apply a chrome cleaner (Semichrome or Mother’s Mag and Aluminium Polish) to a cool, dry exhaust, do not let the cleaner dry on the surface, for stubborn stains use #0000 synthetic steel wool and the metal polish.

To clean exhaust piping use a polishing powder (Blue Coral Blue Buster) to remove ‘blue’ from exhaust pipes wet towel and polish, it will not scratch chrome, can also be used on brass and stainless steel. Clean exhaust piping with Luster Strips. Protect the exhaust with a polymer (Zoopseal) sealant (See also Chrome / Stainless Steel Exhaust)  

Recommended products-

Cleaning- any uncoated, non-ferrous metal surface – brass, gold, silver, aluminium, magnesium, pewter, chrome, sterling, copper, stainless steel – can be brought to a brilliant shine using Simichrome.

             Protection - Zoopseal protects unfinished, brushed or polished steel, stainless steel, brass, aluminium and chrome parts from oxidation and eliminates the need for repeat polishing and extensive cleaning

Stainless Steel Exhaust Tips / Pipe

To clean exhaust piping use a polishing powder (Blue Coral Blue Buster or Blu-Job) to remove ‘blue’ from exhaust pipes wet towel and polish, it will not scratch chrome, can also be used on brass and stainless steel.

For exhaust pipe polishing -use a strip impregnated with a metal polish  (See also Chrome / Stainless Steel Exhaust) protect the exhaust components with a polymer sealant (ZoopSeal)

Information resource-

• Caswell Plating website- http:// www.caswellplating.com/bbs/

• Metal Polishing Secrets -  http://www.topoftheline.com/metal-polishing-secrets.html

Process over Product

A product represents a very small percentage of the detailing equation; identification of the materials, correct diagnosis of a suitable method and the selection of an appropriate product along with the correct surface preparation and application methodology will result in the desired result being obtained

One product doesn’t fit all; use high-end products on high-end cars and use medium-end products on low-end cars. Not every project deserves to be gold plated but when you need durability and great looking end results buy good products and learn the variables of using them.

Aesthetics

The aesthetics- of the appearance of a vehicle is usually based upon an emotional reaction and is very subjective, to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis, it all comes down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology (an unquantifiable % is in the skill of the person polishing the surface) and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder

Research

Always keep an open mind and I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you. Be pro-active and research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based on the factual information gained from research. Don’t regard any source as something you can entirely rely upon, least of all marketing hype or brand loyalty.

Stain Identification and Removal

Be cognizant that some stains cannot be eliminated, things like ink, blue jean marks, et al, once they penetrate the material they become a dye or pigment, much like the colour in paint. Sometimes the only way to eradicate this type of stain is by adding a pigmented (colour) to match the existing

Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals

a) Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too can damage carpets, upholstery, wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional labour to correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.  

b) Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.

c) Spot testing to ensure chemical will not stain or damage material is also very important

Pre-test Spot Procedures

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

Basic Cleaning Requirements

 Three types of energy are required;

1. Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner

 2. Mechanical energy (agitation) provided by machine or hand

 3. Thermal energy -provided by warm or hot water.

Heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension. Heat also acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing remain in place time. Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in the soil, agitation or hand rubbing helps pull the soil free, these types of energy interact and should be in proper balance.

Pre-test Spot Procedures

Diagnosis is the key, not guesswork. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen, stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. 

Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

A pH scale 0 – 14 with pH 7 being neutral; pH controlled means it follows the major automotive manufacturer’s guidelines for exterior cleaners; the control limit being pH 10.0<. An acidic soil can be neutralized with an alkaline solution, this is why most so-called all-purpose cleaners (APC) are alkaline. An acidic based cleaner will counteract alkaline contamination. Most cleaner’s contain detergents and surfactants and are acid or alkaline-based to solve a specific cleaning problem. There are also other things to consider besides its pH value when choosing a cleaner

Cleaning products (with the exception of glass cleaners) should be sprayed on to a folded 100% microfibre cotton towel, do not spray any cleaning product  directly to the surface, as this may cause ‘spot or streak’ clean patches on the surface

Use a high-quality cleaner, formulated without strong solvents and one that has a pH value between 4 and 10 (neither strongly acidic nor strongly alkaline).

Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.   

Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's colour or texture.

Stains

For the safe removal of stains; always use the least invasive product first, before stepping up to something stronger.

The first thing you should do upon discovering a stain is to act immediately. Don’t wait because heat and/or time will just cause the stain to set in deeper, resist the urge to rub it in this will make it much harder to remove. Be patient, some stains respond slowly, all stains and spills cannot be removed due to differences in fibres, dyes, construction, finishes, composition etc, it would also depend on the length of time the stain has remained on the article, etc. Some stains will require professional treatment.

Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access what ‘type’ of stain it is, before a stain can be removed the surface tension that bonds it must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed.

Use a suitable (dependent upon the type of stain) 20% stain remover a solution of and 80 percent distilled water, or shaving cream to remove stains from cloth seats. Spray a small amount of the solution onto the stain. Wait for a few minutes, and then scrub the stained area with a soft bristle brush or old toothbrush. Blot the area with a soft clean cloth

Diagnosis is the key, not guesswork. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen, stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. 

Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

Classifying stains-

a) Organic stains- these include proteins and fats, body oils, mould yeast, bacteria, bugs and carbohydrates. Organic soil is cleaned with an alkaline (pH 8+).Most of the stains found in the vehicle interior are of an organic nature and require an alkaline type cleaner. Some organic stains (i.e. milk, blood, vomit, urine) should be removed with an enzyme type cleaner and a disinfectant applied to the area

b) Non-Organic stains- mostly found on the exterior of the vehicle, hard water scale (calcium) lime deposits, Road tar, grease and oil film, and require an acid (pH 6 or less) type cleaner.

c) Petroleum soils - substances that do not contain water, nor are they miscible, these soil types include, motor oils, and crease and road tar, and require a petroleum-based solvent type cleaner.

Stain Types-

a) Water Soluble Stains- These stains can be dissolved in cool water or loosened with water based cleaner, coffee; soft drinks, cocoa and chocolate are good examples.

b) Oil soluble stains- These are stains that are comprised of oily or greasy substances, which include cooking, oil from fried foods and suntan oil.

c) Combination Stains- These stains contain both water-based and oil-soluble properties. Cleaning these stains require treatment with a petroleum solvent followed by a water-based cleaning solution.

d) Unidentifiable Stains- Sometimes stains cannot be identified. Treat these stains like a combination stain. Clean with a petroleum solvent followed by a water-based cleaner.

As can be seen with the above lists an all-purpose cleaner will probably not clean stains effectively (Most are butyl based, which is a huge known carcinogen) With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.

Stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. (See also Vehicle Interior Detailing and Solvents)

Before using a cleaning product, a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.

Diagnosis is the key, not guesswork. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment

All Purpose Cleaner (APC)

As you can see from the above list the so-called ‘all-purpose cleaner’ (APC) cannot remove all stains, usually a high pH (6.0+) it’s better to use a specific stain remover than to compromise. Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment

Many well-intentioned detailers use the so-called all-purpose cleaning (APC) chemical for detailing. Using a product like Simple Green or a degreaser to clean everything from wheels to carpets is both dangerous and harmful to the materials used for modern automobile materials. A safer alternative is a Limonene (citrus-based) solvent, they are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use. There is no such thing as a one size fits all type chemical cleaner, regardless of what a car care product vendor would have you believe.

Most detailing chemicals are formulated to remove specific stains and a little knowledge of their pH and chemical content will help in their correct selection and use; the most common types of chemicals include surfactants, solvents, wetting agents, Saponifiers and Chelators (See also article on “Basic soap and Detergent Chemistry)

Degreasers

There has been a recent increase in interest in strong, low VOC degreasers. In general degreasing cleaners use three mechanisms for breaking down and removing grease and / or oil (1) dissolving the grease with a solvent ( 2) encapsulating the oils with detergents so that they can be washed away with water and  (3) Chemically changing the oils so that they can be washed away with water. Most degreasers use a combination of all three of these techniques (see relevant MSDS). 

They are usually an aqueous blend of soaps, synthetic detergent, solvents and inorganic alkaline builders, with a small amount of Sodium hydroxide, which helps turn the oils to be cleaned into soap. This is a major reason why degreasers are so caustic. Since the user is going to be cleaning a lot of grease and oil, the formulator puts a lot of extra caustic into the cleaner to break down the grease and oil into soap. Use a degreaser highly diluted as a ‘spot’ cleaner and then polish as it will ‘dull the surface and then replace protection

A safer alternative is a Limonene (citrus-based) solvent (P21S® Total Auto Wash) they are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment

Stain Removal

Some stains can be removed, some cannot. Those that resist all efforts of removal are usually not stains at all. They are actually areas that have been dyed. Example: Fruit drinks contain chemical dye, Coffee was once used to colour fabric and requires a professional, concentrated stain remover.

Grease, tar and oil stains require strong degreasers to be completely removed from thick carpet and velour upholstery. Over the counter products do not have the chemical concentration necessary for this job. A thorough stain removal / cleaning process would require the following; the correct chemical cleaner, heat, agitation and water to act as a carrier system and as a final rinse.

With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

Before cleaning a stain ascertain the material and try detergent and water before using a specific cleaner.  Start with a 10:1 solution and decrease dilution as necessary; 303™ Spot & Stain Remover, P21S® Total Auto Wash, Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care'  between these cleaners you should be able to remove 99% of stains occurring in a vehicle fabrics and around the vehicle interior. Once fabric is clean apply a fabric protection. 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard and UV Protection, 303™ Aerospace Protectant to all surfaces

Prochem Professional Spotting Kit - K250

Specific stains-

Spot Removal: Water-based spot remover effective on oil and water based stains such as blood, soft drinks, light grease, oil, tar, coffee, tea, floor finishes, copier toner, spills, dirt, grime and more. TOTL

a) Blood- remove the stain as soon as possible; if it sets it will be more difficult to remove. Once the stain has been removed the area should also be treated with a disinfectant (Lysol™ Disinfectant). Take all necessary precautions when dealing with blood (latex cloves, and etc) and when disposing of blood-stained items.

Wipe down the area with a damp micro fibre towel and then remove blood stains using a 2:1 solution cold distilled water / Hydrogen peroxide, this will eliminate the stain and provide a disinfectant.  

Finally, rinse the area with a damp micro fibre towel. Take all necessary precautions when dealing with bodily fluid stains (latex gloves and etc) and when disposing of soiled items.  

b) Bituminous Asphalt Stain Removal-

A solvent (Stoner™ Tarminator) can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum-based products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protect rant after use. Something else you can try is isopropyl alcohol (IPA) using a sponge or towels gently blot until the stain is lifted. Blot again with cool water to rinse. Dry with a thick towel.

A dry cleaning solvent will also remove asphalt, as with the alcohol, pour onto a sponge or cloth and blot. Keep blotting until the stain is lifted and then blot with cool water until all traces of the chemical is removed; blot dry with a thick towel.

c) Organic Stains

NOT a masking agent; it contains no enzymes or harsh chemicals. It is the only neutralizer that works for all types of odours. It is the only formula you can apply directly to your pet's skin, or use in an enclosed area. X-O Cleaner & Odor Neutralizer is made from essential oils harvested from plant material (herbs, shrubs and trees). The natural ingredients provide a level of effectiveness and safety not found in regular odour removal products – top of the line (TOTL)

d) Protein Stain Remover

Protein Stain Remover HT-67 will remove blood, urine pet, and food stains, but what makes it unique is its formulation. The stain remover is a highly concentrated, biodegradable powder that is designed to be mixed with an all-purpose cleaner (i.e. P21S® Total Auto Wash) - TOTL

Application - Mix 1/4 cup to a gallon diluted, HT-49. Spray on the stained area and let set for a few minutes. Scrub with a carpet or upholstery brush. Spray and rinse with water, allow to dry and then vacuum.

e) Pet stains and odours- Enzyme is specially formulated using enzyme action to eliminate odours caused by pet urine or vomit to digest the stains and odours left behind by pet urine and faeces. (PETsMART)

f) Soft drink – wipe with a damp 100% cotton towel immediately, if the sugars are allowed to caramelize the stain may be impossible to remover. Use a ‘spot’ cleaner (303™ Spot & Stain Remover) or a Limonene (citrus-based) solvent (P21S® Total Auto Wash)

g) Red Stains- The cleaning challenge will be the removal of the food colouring (Allura Red AC, E129) Try to find out the source of the stain (Koolaid, Gatorade, Red wine, etc) It is important to know the source of much old coffee or tea stains can look like red dye stains and many stains if treated improperly can "set" and then be a major task to remove 

Removing red stains is one of the toughest to remove because most carpet cleaners or spot removers will not eliminate them. 

Usually, a red food dye is used and if spilt on fabric or upholstery it will dye it. Use Red Stain Remover (TOTL) is a unique formulation that removes super tough red stains. Spray the solution on the stain and agitated with a brush to make sure it has penetrated the fibre. Allow it to sit a few minutes to ensure the chemical "action" dissolves the dye.

Alternative process - Place a dry towel over the area and press with a hot iron, as the heat draws the dye to the towel so it can be lifted from the fabric

Either process may take a couple of applications especially if a stain is old, or has been allowed to set for some time. Follow with a thorough by hand-cleaning using Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Cleaner, or with a carpet extractor. Once carpet is thoroughly dry protect it from future stains (using 303 Fabric Protector)

h) Road Paint / Asphalt Remover- lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously.

Use firm pressure and a lot of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application. Once you have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo or glass cleaner. A quick spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use on paint jobs less than 90 days old)The same technique can be used for old tar removal. If the first application doesn't remove it completely, apply a new wipe and repeat the process.

i) Road Salt Stains -Use a stiff brush to dislodge any loose road salt and then vacuum, spray the area with a carpet cleaner and let it soak in, rinse with plenty of water and repeat until most of the stain has been lifted. Finally clean carpets by spraying the area with a carpet shampoo rinse and then remove with a carpet extractor.

(Dry) Salt is inert but be aware that once you add water ( by melting the snow/ice) to salt it becomes alkaline (corrosive) take care to dry the affected area thoroughly after the salt has been removed and neutralize it with a mild acid (vinegar) Spray vinegar, agitate, allow to remain in place and then use an extractor. Actually, any mildly acidic product should neutralize alkaline salt crystals

j) Rust Stains- Removing Rust Stains

Remove as much of the rust stain as possible before applying a treatment.

· Apply a Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner P21S Total Auto Wash onto the stain so that the spot is thoroughly saturated.

· Sprinkle salt onto TAW.

· Allow the salt and Limonene to react with the stain for 24 hours.

· Refresh the TAW to keep the spot damp.

· Blot the stain (do not rub, as this may damage the fibres).

· Thoroughly rinse the spot with clean water.

· Repeat as necessary.

k) Wax (candle or crayon)- to remove melted wax from carpeting, place an absorbent paper towel folded 4-5 times over the wax and with a hot iron run it back and forth on the towel (renewing as required) this will re-liquefy the wax and the towel will absorb it. Repeat as necessary.

l) Water Marks (Browning)

Clean and extract as normal. Follow with a sprayed mist of a 'souring agent' to prevent browning, colour bleed and those awful 'watermarks'. Extract with plain water (no detergent). Wait to dry. Evaluate. (Color Stabilizer and Souring Agent, Pro's Choice)

Different cleaning methods to remove two different types of contaminants

General Rules for removing stains

a) Organic soil; use alkaline cleaners.

b) Non-organic soil; remove with an acidic product.

c)  Petroleum soil; remove with a petroleum-based cleaner.

1. Hot water and liquid soap to remove water-soluble contaminants:

Dirt, Mud

Road Salt

2. Wax and Grease Remover to remove solvent soluble contaminants:

Grease and Oil (Stoner’s Tarminator)

Road Tar ditto

Tree Sap ditto

Bird Droppings ditto

Wax and Polishes (DuPont Prepsol)

Silicone   ditto