Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification

Automotive Leather Finishes



There are three main types of leather finish


1. Unfinished dyed leather; aniline dyes are translucent, the transparency of the dye enables you to see the natural marks on the leather. Because it’s the top-grain, this leather has plenty of physical durability.


This type of leather finish is typical of approximately 10% of vehicles


2. Finished leather is aniline dyed then a topical water-based pigmentation coating; and then a clear coating are applied to the surface. These coating represent the colour and sheen on the leather.


3. Protected leather with a pigmented urethane coating, without the tensile strength of top-grain, consequently will have a short useful life expectancy. Split-hides are typically heavily pigmented with a heavy urethane clear coat.


The common denominator is that whatever the leather finish any product that is applied to its surface must allow evaporation and hydration i.e. the flow of moisture back and forth


The interior environment of an automobile can be extremely demanding on any material used. Temperatures range from hot dry summer days, to freezing nights. Both high and low humidity, even air conditioning that cools, but also dries. Leather's greatest enemies are; sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.


The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather finish used in the vehicle as the methodologies are very specific for each type


Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself


Automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface finish.


An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications a clear water-based top coat is then applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and a limited amount of ‘slide’ as the final stage of the finishing process.


The urethane (Ethyl carbamate) used for protecting automobile upholstery is classified as a semi-solid permeable membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate. The urethane although very resilient to abrasion wear from entering and exiting the vehicle, by using additives it still maintains its physical properties like flexibility, tactile hand and its patina


A urethanes fibre structure will stretch in all directions with no particular grain or stress pattern. The urethane surface coating will not withstand multi directional stress, however, and when it’s flexed or stretched continuously in the same place the surface coating develops minute cracks. It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se as some chemicals penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.

Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification



Automotive leather is a rather difficult category to define as OEM descriptions of leather finishes vary, often incorrectly from that of leather manufacturer’s description. Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is.


The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather used in the vehicle and / or finish applied as the methodologies are very specific for each type


Leather finishes - there are two strata’s to automotive leather upholstery; the actual hide and the surface finish. The hides used are generally bovine, which must be kept hydrated to maintain tensile strength, luxurious suppleness and prevent the hide from cracking and becoming dry. Natural leather has a water-based pigmentation applied to the hide to provide an even colour. There is no such thing as a cow with blue, red or burgundy skin.


Automotive leather is typically finished with a coating, which protects the surface from (UV) radiation, as well making it resistant to soiling and wear. These coatings vary in thickness; Aniline leather is has a clear coating of approximately 0.2µ as opposed to covered leather, which has a pigmented layer of approximately 25 µ, applied to provide protection from wear when getting in and out of the vehicle


Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself


Leather Detailing and Care


Formulate a detailing plan, then utilize proper detailing techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a details outcome, successful. You will find that getting unbiased information on this subject is somewhere between very difficult and impossible. It is important to be able to recognise the different materials used for vehicle upholstery as some OEM use different materials for the various surfaces (i.e. perforated leather for the seating areas, PVC bolsters and seat backs)


Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First you need to identify the material and finishes used; Nubuck / Alcantara®, Aniline and Protected or Coated


Different types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different process. Check your 'leather type' before attempting to clean or apply any products to its surface.


Leather is very dynamic with respect to its moisture content; the leather hides needs to be kept supple. The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish, it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). Remember you are dealing with the finished surface of the leather and not with the leather hide itself.


1. Aniline or Pigmented Natural leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) Generally speaking aniline style leathers come in very earthy natural colours, which has been aniline dyed or stained, incorporating a small quantity of pigment (a thin clear sealant that provides a uniform colour and affords some protection) but not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics of the hide. This leather is also used for perforated leather finishes.


Semi-aniline leather - utilizes aniline and other chemicals to get different looking finishes. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. (Range Rover Vogue, among others)


Identifying characteristics - It is highly absorbent and has a random shade colours and grain pattern.


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will darken the surface, but it returns to its original colour after drying.


Absorbency rate -High


2. Protected leather (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it’s protected.


The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast urethane (Ethyl carbamate) covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing.


Cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface, it’s (urethane) protected leather as liquids other than water (due to the size of its smaller molecules) will not penetrate.


Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface


Absorbency rate -Low


3. Alcantara® Ultra suede™, Ecsaine, Micro suede, etc) are not leather and would more accurately be described as a fabric, it is in fact a synthetic materials composed of 68% polyester and 32% polyurethane, it has the appearance and tactile feel similar to that of suede, and it may be incorrectly identified as such. Toray Industries' Ultra suede or Alcantara is finding application in seating as well as dash trimming, steering wheel covering and headliners in many high-end original equipment manufacturer (OEM) automotive applications. Suede and Nubuck -suede has a napped surface and is made from the buffed inner surface of calfskin or kidskin. Nubuck is produced by buffing the exterior of the hide.


Identifying characteristics – these materials are very soft to the touch and will scratch or scuff very easily.


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will darken the surface and will remain dark or leave a water mark after drying.


Absorbency rate -High


Nappa and Perforated Leather (A-Aniline // Non-Coated) – for leather used in autos, Nappa is a term that is used to denote a high quality leather, it’s a very soft, absorbent full grain (uncoated) and usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout


Identifying characteristics – see Aniline Leather


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).


4. Vinyl - is a non-organic (synthetic) material that has an even, almost repeating pattern. Vinyl can imitate leather as they imprint a grain pattern into it; the depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary.


Identifying characteristics - it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch.


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface


Absorbency rate -Low


Alternatively go to your local vehicle dealership along with the vehicle identification number (VIN), they can advise you of the options fitted.


The common denominator for all the above surface finishes is that they all require specific products in accordance with the finish; not forgetting protection from ultra violet (UV) radiation

Artificial leather



It’s a non-organic (synthetic) leather-like finish material that has an even, almost repeating pattern, it also has a protective coating applied. It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se as some chemicals penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.


MB-Tex and Artico [: a plastic fabric made to look like leather] are probably the best known of this type of material that can imitate leather as they imprint a grain pattern into it; the depth of the lines within the grain that also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary widely. Artificial leather usually has single stitching; whereas leather uses double stitching, as leather is thicker.

Identifying characteristics - it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch.


The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface

Absorbency rate -Low

Leatherette (Pleather) sometimes referred to as Poromerics (a term coined by DuPont) an imitation leather are a group of synthetic ‘breathable’ leather substitutes made from plastic coating (usually polyurethane) on a fibrous base layer (typically polyester) Including Naugahyde, the fabric can be made of a natural or a synthetic fibre which is then covered with a soft PVC layer, which is a lighter, more flexible and less restrictive material than leather. This kind of material is easy to clean, requiring the owner to simply wipe it off occasionally with a cloth dipped in a solution of mild detergent and warm water.


Periodically clean using a 1:10 solution of P21S Total Auto Wash and distilled water to remove dirt build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore the original texture and resiliency; use to clean all polyurethane covered automotive upholstery; this product is biodegradable and environmentally friendly..

            Protection - even though this material is not real leather, it can definitely crack and distort, with Einszett 1z Cockpit Premium safely cleans all clear and coloured automotive plastic interior fittings such as dash, trim, door panels, navigation/audio screens, steering wheel, and pedals. It leaves a long-lasting matt finish with fresh citrus scent. The perfect everyday cleaner for interior plastic surfaces, it’s a mild cleaner to prevent the drying of these porous surfaces, yet it is effective at removing body oils and grime on a regular basis.

            Application - Spray onto a clean micro fibre towel, agitate it well and then allow it to remain in place for 10-15 minutes. Finally using a clean micro fibre towel buff it to ensure it permeates


One products suits all leather type finishes is a marketing myth

Three Step Care



All finishes have to allow '(evaporation and hydration) ' - the flow of moisture back and forth, the important considerations for proper leather care; is as much about (a) the state / condition of the leather you are dealing with (b) methodology used (c) product. Cleaning is a combination of all these


(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear.


(b) Hydrated - use water-based products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.


(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.


Leather is very dynamic with respect to its moisture content; the leather hides needs to be kept supple. The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish, it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). So the use of water- based cleaners and protectors will maintain hydration, which is essential to keeping it in pristine condition.


For many, finding the best leather care product is as simple as using what is the most popular. While popularity can sometimes be a reliable barometer, it isn’t always the correct choice. Some even make their decision based on new car’s leather fragrance alone. My best advise; research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information, not hype or brand loyalty.


After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Micro fibre - the CliffNotes® Version

Micro fibre (Microfiber US spelling)


By definition [: very small; involving minute quantities or variations] it is not a fabric; but a yarn, that’s spun into thread, which is then used to weave a terry fabric. These ultra-fine yarns (twice as fine as silk and is 100 times finer than a human hair) are made from various sources, they can be made from many different materials, such as a 70% polyester/30% polyamide (or 80/20%) or a natural material such as cellulose, a plant carbohydrate. Potentially any fibre could be made into a micro fibre.


Micro fibre came about by combining two DuPont inventions: Polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and Polyamide (an absorbing fibre) this nylon hybrid is created during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids. The polyamide is used as the core of the hybrid fibre and the polyester is the outer skin. Each fibre has specific qualities that, when properly blended, can be used to weave functionally specific fabrics


Things to look for in a micro fibre towel


• How many times the fibres are split - a higher split ensues you get a more effective cleaning towel. Splitting the fibres creates millions of edges that trap dirt and dust that bonds to the fibres and is not released until the towel is washed in hot water. Therefore, the dirt is not re-deposited on the paint surface.


• Denier [: weight per unit length (linear density) measure of a continuous filament or yarn, used traditionally in textile industry]. The higher the number, the thicker the fibre


• Density of fibre - bear in mind that less density of fibre, translate into less cleaning power and far less durability. - is a measure of fibres per square inch of fabric. The range for quality micro fibre is 90,000 to 225,000 fibres per square inch. The higher the fibre count the more absorbent. The less dense cloths are also more abrasive to delicate surfaces. Look for at least 200,000 fibres per square inch of fabric.


• Ratio - of polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) blend; an 80% polyester and 20% polyamide is typical (80/20) a 70/30 blend will absorb water faster. As polyamide is much more expensive than polyester, you can expect to pay more for a 70/30 blend.


• Quality - lesser quality versions can use a weave that is too wide or a pile that is too long, which causes the fibres’ to shed during use, leaving a lint trail.


• Construction - towel boarders, one of the of the advantages of a silk/satin edging is that they won't unravel when washed several times like a non edged towel nor will they cause marring of the paint surface, it also means that they will not snag.


• Weave -the weave on micro fibre towels can be adjusted to meet specific requirements; a terry-loop, cut, hooked feathered, zigzag or Piqué waffle weaves.


• Size - available in various sizes 16 -inch x 16 / 18 / 24 -inch, drying towels 25 -inch x 16 -inch being a usable size


• Thickness - some manufacturers are rating the thickness of their towels by weight; expressed in grams per square meter or g/m2. The ratio of polyester and polyamide usually remains the same.


When choosing micro fibre quality is very important, as a lack of quality inspection will result in variable results i.e. towels that will cause surface scratches, leave a trail of lint, etc. Many of the Micro fibre products being offered on the market are made from non-split (non-absorbent and ineffective) yarn. The manufacturer forgoes the expensive splitting procedure to save money, and the result is a failing product. Not only does the blend lose over half of its absorbing and cleaning ability but it weakens with use, greatly reducing the life of the product. Some micro fibre products from China and Korea have less density and a denier (length of measure) of 0.5 or higher, which is 50x’s larger than the preferred quality denier of 0.02 or smaller.


A good quality towel may cost more, but it will last longer. The most important thing to remember is that a good quality micro fibre towel will provide better cleaning results and is less likely to cause surface scratches than lesser quality towels Micro fibre quality is very often reflected in the purchase price, best advice; use only high quality micro fibre towels from a reputable source. Pakshak Micropak


As with most things, you'll get what you pay for; as Henry Royce once commented [the quality tends to be remembered long after the price has been forgotten]

Testing Micro fibre


A couple of ‘non-scientific test’ you could use to assimilate wither or not a towel (or any other cloth you'd use on a paint surface) will cause scratches, they are not at all scientific nor 100% accurate, they are only indicative of what the towel may do to your paint surface, but then which is preferable to scratch a CD or your paint surface? Ensure the towels have been washed before carrying out these ‘tests’, and test them using the same criteria you’d use then; damp and remember, even the softest towels will scratch if too much pressure is used,


If the towel does scratch the CD’s surface that doesn’t necessarily mean that it will scratch the vehicles paint, a CD has a much softer surface than automobile paint so use caution, initially trying an inconspicuous area of the paint surface


CD Scratch Test

Take a damp micro fibre cloth and use medium to heavy pressure rub the data surface of a CD. If no scratching is evident then it probably won’t scratch the vehicles paint surface, be aware that the bindings can also cause scratching. Ensure you wash before you use a micro fibre towel for the first time and use it on an inconspicuous area first.


Burn Test


But not all microfibers are polyester. There are microfibers made from cotton, rayon, acrylic and nylon. Most of the time, though, the fibre is polyester a simple burn test will tell you which fibre the product contains A very easy test is to take a butane lighter and put the fibre close to the flame, but not in the flame. If the fibre pulls away from the flame, you have a synthetic fibre (nylon or polyester, most likely).This means you can easily clean the fabric with typical aggression. If the fibre does not pull away, burn it. If the resulting ash is crumbly and gives you a "dirty finger" when you crush it, you no doubt have a natural fibre

An excerpt from one of a series of 135 technical papers “The Art &Science of Detailing”

Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Sacrificial Protection

Bird excrement paint surface etching

      Bird excrement damage (magnified)

Protection


A fundamental question first; what does a paint surface need to be protected from; after all we should ascertain what we are trying to protect against. Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, bird and insect excrement, tree resin (sap) hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet or diesel fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV-A and B) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface.

• Acid rain (sulphur dioxide plus moisture) and is caused by sulphur from impurities in fossil fuels and nitrogen from the air combining with oxygen to form sulphur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. These diffuse into the atmosphere and react with water to form sulphuric and nitric acids which are soluble and fall with the rain. Some hydrochloric acid is also formed.


• Bird and Insect Excrement - comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.


• Brake Dust - ferrous oxide (FeO) produced from the friction of brake pad material (semi-metallic, carbon resins, asbestos or ceramics formulations) rubbing against the rotor. The brake material friction as well as metal particles from the rotor disperses tiny particles of black dust, which forms a cohesive bond to the wheels and adheres to localized paint surfaces. Ferrous oxide micro-sized particles that come into contact with moisture will form rust.


• Bug Residue and Carcasses - the carcass is very acidic, and if left for any length of time will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)


• Calcium (Ca) - an untimely lawn sprinkler, a springtime shower, or spots that remained after washing, the minerals are white calcium/sodium deposits that are alkaline-based, especially from hard water. If left on the vehicle paint surface they act the same way as acid rain in that they will etch the paint film surface.


• Contaminants - particles of dirt, grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked eye.


• Corrosion (metal oxidation) - salt water conducts electricity better than fresh water so in areas that use salt on the roads, this process is greatly accelerated. Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen).


• Detergents -. are usually a blend of several surfactants, which are two opposing polar groups, hydrophilic and a non-polar group lipophilic. Surfactants use emulsification to dissolve and encapsulate oily particles. Paint surface protection (wax, polymers, coatings, etc) are formulated to be detergent resistant, but be cognizant that the harsh high alkaline detergents used in high street carwash, especially no-touch tunnel wash will strip away a large percentage of wax and a percentage of polymer sealant, leaving the sacrificial barrier compromised


• Hydrazine - an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, vehicles that park in close proximity to airports or flight-paths are subject to this contaminant. Park near idling diesels or an airport with a lot of jet fuel exhaust in the air; kerosene strips waxes or sealant; diesel and jet fuels are refined kerosene.


• Infrared Radiation – (UV-A) wavelength or infrared radiation represents a part of the ultra violet solar spectrum (approximately 55%-60%). The remaining heat source comes from visible and ultra violet light


Heat alone will not cause photosynthesis (fading) UV-B radiation is what is responsible, although it will dry the resin (binder system) in paint; leading to oxidation. It will also dry out the oils and plasticizers in vinyl and other materials and may lead to structural damage (this is especially relevant to open top convertibles)


• Industrial Fallout (IFO) - emissions from power generation, manufacturing plants and combustion engines emit Sulphuric acid from their exhaust stacks etc, vehicular catalytic converters emit carbon compounds that mixed with ozone (an oxidizer) and water becomes Sulphuric acid.


• Oxidation - UV- B radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification of exposed surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and eventually destruction of the paint film


• Pollen - the yellow fines to coarse powders you see in the air is made up of small sperm cells from blooming plants and is one of the most common allergy triggers. The pollen from trees are the main concern, vehicles get hit with pollen laced trees that include: oak, western red cedar, elm, birch, ash, hickory, polar, sycamore, maple, cypress and walnut (which also leaves an oily residue). Pollen grains of pines, firs, and spruces are winged.


• Road Salt - Although salt is inert when subjected to freezing (15 – 20.oF ) it’s considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow/ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the saline solution(salt/water) will have an adverse effect on the vehicles paint and undercarriage.


When washing the vehicle ensure that all salt is removed to avoid a saline solution remaining on the paint finish. Using a durable protection (Collinite Insulator Wax) will provide a sacrificial and renewable protection to the vehicles paint finish.


• Rail Dust - ferrous oxide (FeO) a black-colored powder that is created by railroad wheels abrading the metal tracks, these small particles become airborne and are sintered to the paint film surfaces. New cars that are transported by rail are at extra risk. When moisture combines with the oxide particles it creates small rust spots.


• Ultra violet radiation –  (UV-B) (Light) radiation is a paint film surface's greatest enemy, causing more damage than any other airborne contaminant and affecting both the interior and exterior of a vehicle. The light in this spectral range is responsible for photo degradation. Photo degradation results in discoloration, fading, embitterment, cracking, chalking and/or loss of mechanical properties. Ordinary auto window glass filters out about 95% of UV-A radiation.


• Tree resin (sap) - appears like a dark brown/ rust red colour raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.


• Water - beading that is left to evaporate on a car will lead to water marks; a standard household supply usually contains alkali minerals like calcium(Ca) magnesium (Mg), which are inert until heat and moisture is added and then it become corrosive. Once these form a ‘bead’ and they dry they will cause etching (a shallow indentation) of the paint surface. Clean rainwater (See also Acid Rain) has no harmful effects. The average unprotected water-based paint absorbs approximately a pint of water; dependent upon its content this may be harmful.

Summary


Quite a formidable list but all these have a few things in common; they are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.


The good or at least better news is that an organic wax will provide a sacrificial barrier i.e. it provides (time) limited protection and also absorbs the acid, which can then be wiped off and then renewed. It should be noted that any wax subjected to an acidic attack (bird excrement, etc) must be removed without delay otherwise the paint surface will be compromised.

Sacrificial Protection

sac•ri•fi•cial [:designed to be used up or destroyed]

A paint or metal surfaces natural sacrificial protection is oxidation; the so called white rust on aluminium is in fact oxidation. Eventually, any mechanical abrasive action will wear away the oxidation; this could be caused by washing the paint surface, using a car duster, placing or removing a car cover, etc.


The micro thin layer of wax or polymer sealant, apart from their aesthetic qualities provides a film that resists the adhesion of dirt and etc and allow you to wash the paint surface without using undue pressure, thereby micro marring the paint. Be cognizant that they are limited in their ability to resist scratches, although some Finish Kare FK1000P for instance provides better protection than most.


Products like Klasse an acrylic polymer is acid based and is resistant to acidic attack, or an inorganic wax like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax or Finish Kare FK1000P is probably the most durable inorganic wax product, but this will only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much (etching) damage to the paint film


The latest nanotechnology coating or PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat although they are highly resistant to chemicals, detergents, scratches and ultra violet radiation (UV) will only offer limited resistance to acid etching from environmental contaminates. The newer nanotechnology coatings are better than conventional last step products (LSP) i.e. Aquartz silica coating. Although there are no products to-date that can protect against bird excrement or other environmental acids


Carnauba wax forms a multi strata matrix, whereas a polymer is a mono layer that cross-links and forms a chain like structure that forms a molecular bond to the paint surface. Contaminants will be further removed from the surfaces that are protected with a Carnaubas multi strata matrix than with polymers mono (single) layer


Wax coatings act as a sacrificial buffer between a paint surface and the elements; these coatings are gradually used up (hence sacrificial) and reach a point where they can no longer protect; when they reach this point they must be renewed. Once attacked by acid (acid rain, Bird or Insect excrement, Industrial fallout, and etc) it should be removed and a fresh coating applied.


No wax, polymer sealant or nanotechnology coating on its own, can provide a permanent shield against acidic attack from bird excrement, acid rain etc as they are all incompatible with strong acids.

Many natural and synthetic materials are attacked by ultra-violet radiation and products made using these materials may crack or disintegrate. This problem is known as ultra violet (UV-B) degradation, and is a common problem in products exposed to sunlight.

Copyright © 2002-2011, TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Article Notes, Conditions and Legal Stuff

Recommended Products


In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of any of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products if they are omitted.


The author does not provide any guarantee of results and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only.


I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and unbiased, the product recommendation is based on “Does exactly what it says on the box” and it suits my detailing goals. I have tested the products mentioned and have found that they will perform the task more than adequately using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.


Detailing products


Car care chemicals are the most misunderstood component auto detailing, they should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. It is my opinion that when it comes to car care products its best to understand the scientific process to enable the best result possible.


Most companies won’t release ingredients other than what's on the MSDS sheet. Patenting chemicals is pretty risky since if you change a couple of ingredients by a few percentages it's technically a different product. When it comes to technical specifications and chemical formulations, it is important to realize that all companies must keep secure their proprietary information and agreements. Without this, no business would have the incentive to develop new products, expand their market, stay competitive, and ultimately - exist.


A product that shows great results in the controlled environment of a laboratory may not produce the same results in the real world, this is the reality of field testing, which throws up masses of variables which lab testing just cannot replicate i.e. resistance of paint coatings against ultra violet (UV) damage, bird droppings, acid rain, alkaline sprinklers, scratching (regardless of hardness factors) gloss, dirt and surface stain repellence and temperature resistance.


Detailing relies on the correct preparation procedures and the correct methodology to obtain pristine results. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.


Results Obtained


These articles are not intended to warrant or guarantee any results with any of the products mentioned. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned. The author does not provide, nor guarantee and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only.


Proper Technique


There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results. Using the same application methods and products of one individual may or may not give you the similar results; but it’s always best to adopt your own methodologies by experimentation with different products, after all that half the fun of detailing


The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. Some of the methodologies are controversial as they do not conform to popular practices. I’ve found that some myths are deliberately perpetuated by product manufacturers as negative marketing and others are just common errors of judgment.


Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; the most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain and what is the material you are trying to remove the stain from. Formulate a detailing plan, then utilize proper detailing techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a details outcome, successful. When in doubt always allow common sense to prevail.


A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result.


Skill Level / Experience


Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein.


Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products or tools they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon.


Liability


The information contained herein is believed to be true and accurate; however we make no guarantees concerning the veracity of any statement. The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered.


Accuracy and Verifiability of Content

I strongly espouse the dissemination of accurate; unbiased information, verifiability of content and information quality while trying to maintain a neutral point of view and as far as possible without bias, This ensures that anything challenged or likely to be challenged, including all quotations, be attributed to a reliable source in the form of an inline citation, and that the source directly supports the material in question. By its very nature some article content is original research, which refers to material-such as facts, allegations, ideas, and stories not already verified or published, but I try to ensure that information quality and a neutral point of view is consistently maintained


I strive to present complete and accurate information. To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products or technologies becomes available, so the articles are updated on a regular basis as necessary from current research. From time to time there may be information that contains typographical errors, inaccuracies, or omissions (because I’m human). These are unintended and TOGWT™ reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update information at any time without prior notice.


Product Quality and Technique


Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. Fundamentally the most important thing about products is how they perform. Product testing or even improvements to their basic formula in the laboratory is one thing, but how they perform in everyday conditions on actual vehicles is something completely different.


Aesthetics


The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is usually based upon an emotional reaction and is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder


Research


Research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty.


I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice.


Product Use


Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; the most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material finish is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain (Organic stains, Inorganic stains or Petroleum soils) and what is the material you are trying to remove the stain from. Formulate a detailing plan, then utilize proper detailing techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a details outcome, successful.


Product Application


Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning) apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure. Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture.


Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.


Use of any information on these pages is used at the reader's own risk. The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common sense


Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals


a) Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too can damage carpets, upholstery, wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional labour to correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.


b) Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.


c) Spot testing to ensure chemical will not stain or damage material is also very important


Pre-test Spot Procedures


Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.


Information disclaimer


The information contained in these articles is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by TOGWT™ and while we endeavour to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the information, products, services, or related graphics for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.


In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of materials, time or any profits arise out of, or in connection with, the use of this information.


Article Revisions / Updates


To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis


Process over Product


A wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity. If you apply a product over a surface that is dirty or one that has surface imperfections a wax or sealant will not disguise it, only highlight them.


Material data sheets (MSDS)


Be aware of dangerous ingredients and request Materials Safety and Data Sheets (MSDS) from the manufacturer if there is any question.


Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is required under the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard. The MSDS is a detailed informational document prepared by the manufacturer or importer of a hazardous chemical. It describes the physical and chemical properties of the product. MSDS’s contain useful information such as flash point, toxicity, procedures for spills and leaks, and storage guidelines.


Information included in a Material Safety Data Sheet aids in the selection of safe products, helps you understand the potential health and physical hazards of a chemical and describes how to respond effectively to exposure situations. Although there is an effort currently underway to standardize MSDS’s the quality of individual MSDS’s vary. A MSDS may be useful but it cannot substitute for prudent practices and comprehensive risk management.


An MSDS should be available for every chemical you use. Read these and follow the recommendations for safe use and disposal of the material. The target audience for information in a MSDS is the occupation worker who may be exposed to chemicals at work. However, much of the information is also relevant to consumers.


Read the manufacturers application instructions and then obtain and read the MSDS sheet to ascertain the chemicals used. Although it should be said that an MSDS is a document that contains details of the hazards associated with a particular chemical and provides information regarding its safe use. The MSDS is required to state the chemical's risks, safety and impact on the environment.


An MSDS is a fact sheet developed by manufacturers describing the chemical properties of a product. Material Safety Data Sheets include brand-specific information such as physical data (solid, liquid, colour, melting point, flash point, etc.), health effects, first aid, reactivity, storage, handling, disposal, personal protection and spill/leak procedures.


How to Read a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/gemare/gemare_012.cfm


Chemical Information (MSDS) A-Z- http://www.ehso.com/msds.php


Definitions of Terms Used in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) - http://www.ehso.com/msdsdefs.php


Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS)


Each CAS registry number (often referred to as CAS #) is a unique numeric identifier that designates only one substance; it has no specific chemical significance, but is a link to a wealth of information about a specific chemical substance. Since CAS Registry Numbers are not dependent upon any system of chemical nomenclature, they can provide a reliable common link between the various nomenclatures terms used to describe substances. And serve as an international resource for chemical substance identifiers used by scientists, industry, and regulatory bodies


Environmental Commitment


Contamination of surface waters arises from the residues discharging to storm drains, which in turn most commonly drain to rivers and lakes. Chief pollutants include phosphates; cleaning chemicals (degreasers, etc) oil and grease. This is almost exclusively an issue for home/driveway washing.


You should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of untreated via the storm drainage system. Pending regulations are in place (Clean Water Act and Ground Water Pollution and various city ordinances)


to limit the amount of contaminated water that is allowed to be discharged into storm water systems (i.e. street vehicle washing) always responsibly dispose of all non-biodegradable materials from your vehicle cleaning in a responsible manner.


Waste management is a serious concern for water authorities in most states and cities. It is no longer acceptable to allow chemicals into the storm drainage system. This means that a detailer must have a containment and water reclamation system when using any chemicals that are not biodegradable and safe for aquatic life.


California uses a 2-gallon rule. If a detail requires more than 2 gallons of wash water, the water must be contained. Waste run-off must be disposed of in accordance with federal, state and local environmental control regulations.


Be sure you are compliant when washing cars; check with your local government municipal office or the EPA regional office in your area to see what you need to do to be compliant when washing vehicles at businesses and residential neighbourhoods.


Disposal of Aqueous Solutions


One should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of down the drain. The storm drain system takes all the water from outside homes and businesses (rain, overwatering of lawns) and sends it untreated straight to our local creeks, rivers, bays and eventually the ocean. The storm drain system is designed as a flood control system to allow water from heavy rainstorms to flow quickly to our waterways to avoid flooding of our streets, homes and businesses. However, the rainwater can pick up pollutants as large as shopping carts or as microscopic as pesticides and fertilizer and flush it all into our waterways damaging the fish, plants and other living things in our eco-system.


With few exceptions, it is illegal for anyone to throw, dispose of or allow anything other than rainwater into the storm drains. Try to divert car wash water to a landscaped or planted area. Your local water treatment authority or publicly owned treatment works will have information on treatment and disposal of these cleaners. Adjustment of pH and dilution are usually required before disposal to a drain. Always comply with current water usage and disposal regulations / water usage restrictions.


A car care product may be biodegradable and environmentally safe but just remember the dirt, oil and road grease you are cleaning with it are not, once rinsed off the vehicle paint surface the resultant solution is no longer biodegradable and environmentally safe


Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)


For your safety and the legally required protection of employees, you will need to have personal protective equipment available that will include a respirator fitting for you and your employees. At no time should you endanger yourself or others, take any unnecessary risks or infringe any laws.


Protection from Potential Health Hazards


1. Warning: Always use ground fault protection interruption (GFPI) when using any electrical device around water


2. Eye Protection: I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses or visor when operating any machine polisher.


3. Ear Protection; the constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss.


4. Hand Protection; Gloves- with the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and will provide protection against dermatitis and chemical burns. Gloves can provide protection, but they must be chosen with care, the proper selection matched to the hazard is critical. Chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and cam protect against dermatitis, chemical burns and corrosion.


5. Respiratory Protection (N95): Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers (Crystalline silica poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis) and Isocyanate clear coat residue represent a hazard to your lungs and may cause respiratory distress. Use a NIOSH-approved half face respirator equipped with a combination filter cartridge should be worn while using them


6. Consult the current 3M Respiratory Selection Guide for additional information or call 1-800-243-4630 for 3M technical assistance.


7. Material Safety Data Sheets: Use a ring binder or other filing system to ensure the appropriate MSDS is always available to identify hazardous substances


8. Work Hygienic Practices: Rinse cloves under running water before removing them


9. Protect yourself, work safe. As in all things, allow common sense to prevail and proceed with due caution


GFCI and Extension Cord


Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter and Extension cord selection is based on two main principles. First, the cable should be able to carry the current load imposed on it without overheating. It should be able to do this in the most extreme conditions of temperature it will encounter during its working life.


Second, it should offer sufficiently sound earthing to (a) limit the voltage to which people are exposed to a safe level and (b) allow the fault current to trip the fuse or MCB in a short time. To meet these requirements requires consideration of the circuit load current (AMPS) a reasonable voltage drop, cable thickness (G) and length (feet) and the over-current protection device


Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI -residual current device is also known as a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) junction Box with 6-Ft. cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.


Prime Wire & Cable 50-Ft extension 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool


Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator - http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm


Information resource


1. Wikipedia® Encyclopaedia


2. Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist", by Jon Miller


3. TOGWT™ Series of Detailing Articles, by Jon Miller

Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Detailing Articles


This is one of is one of a series of unbiased and informative, knowledge based, subject specific articles, which are dedicated to the automotive detailing enthusiast or professional detailer in search of development and further education All original material is copyright, unless otherwise stated (1) it may be copied and distributed for non-commercial purposes only provided that you retain all copyright and other proprietary notices contained in the original material, (2) the information is copied in full with no changes unless prior written agreement is obtained from TOGWT™, and a reference to © TOGWT ™ is included, any unauthorized use of these materials may violate copyright laws and/or trademarks.


Copyright Protection


And intellectual property rights-© This work is registered with the UK Copyright Service that supports international copyright protection by securing independent evidence that will help prove originality and ownership in any future claims or disputes. All intellectual property is the sole property of TOGWT™. If you have made unauthorized use of our material before reading this page, please email information@togwt.com before we discover unauthorized use ourselves. You can always repair this situation before we need to escalate the problem. We use automated web-crawlers (Copyscape) so they can be traced to any website on the internet if needed in a legal confrontation


Consent


If you are seeking permission to use any of TOGWT copyrighted articles please contact us before using any. We prosecute for breach of any of these conditions: If anyone is found to be using our copyrighted designs or articles from our website www.togwt.com or associated websites, we will prosecute to the full extent of the law and have done so successfully in the past

Types of Paint Surface Scratches

Hairline scratches

Magnified paint surface scratches



Types of Paint Surface Scratches

Most scratches on a paint surface are V or U shaped, being caused by a small sharp object (fine sand or grit) and a slightly blunt object (belt buckle, button or zip) so an abrasive polish and pad are more readily able to polish the sides and smooth the points where the top of the scratch meets the surrounding paint's uppermost surface (paint levelling).

The perfect, mirror-like reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction the best example of spatial reflection is seen when reflected from a flat level surface.


If the surface is perfectly flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the surface. But if there you have matte paint or are imperfections such as swirls, surface contaminants, orange peel, or oxidation (dull, opaque or unlevelled paint) light is refracted and the reflected light becomes distorted, diffuse reflection, which mutes the shine.


Technically we have different types of scratches because of the different ways they are introduced into the paint.


• Surface marring -the shallow surface marks often caused by the incorrect use of a micro fibre towel, improper washing methodologies or the scratch pattern caused by a dual action polisher. Surface marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily be remedied by using a very light abrasive one-step polish


• Halo-scratches - (swirl marks or spider webs) which, when the light reflects off the raised edges of the scratches, appear to be circular but in reality they are made up of numerous straight line random scratches which are caused by washing, drying and everyday wear and tear. Some are surface marring, whereas others can be deep into the clear coat.


• Holograms - (also called buffer marks or buffer trails) which again are scratches but these scratches are micro-fine patterned scratches which are caused by a high speed polisher and an operator who doesn't know how to properly finish down their work. They take on a 3D effect and if the car is moving or you move around the car they seem to "flow" through the paint.


• Pig-tailing - caused by dried compound residue lodged in the fibres of a wool pad


• Etching - is a type of paint defect that can vary in depth and frequency, but creates a unique pattern dependant on how it is created. Etching is caused by chemical reaction (Acid Rail, IFO, Bird excrement, bombs, and the residual minerals found in water) on that paint’s surface that dissolves the surface, creating depressions.


• Deep Scratches- a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding


• Haze - this is usually caused by using a pad / polish combination that is too abrasive for the paint surface to finish out without leaving very fine scratch marks.(See also Wipe Down Process)


Cause and Effect


Too ensure a near perfect paint surface blemishes need to be removed. However there are some things to be cognizant of as it is possible to actually make things worse by using improper methodologies.


Proceed with this in mind; always choose the least intrusive product, it is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired results with your selected polish / pad combination then proceed to polish the rest of the panels


• Foam pad - using a foam pad that is too aggressive or is not suitable for the polish selected


• Polish - select an abrasive polish to match the scratch you are trying to remove; by using the least abrasive combination of polish / pads to remove the defect, before moving up to a more abrasive combination. It makes no sense to use a very aggressive polish, that will remove most scratches but to the detriment of the clear coats thickness. Know your product and its capabilities before using it.


• Backing plate - a hard and inflexible backing plate will affect the performance of a foam pad; by making it slightly more aggressive (stiffness) and may cause swirl marks. The inflexible plastic on many backing plates has zero give and therefore will not adjust to the contoured body panels. The exception would be a plate bonded to a thick layer of dense cellular foam.


• Speed - using too high a speed will not necessarily get the job done faster as there is a risk of instilling swirl marks or strikethrough, which will need to be corrected to remove


• Pressure - excessive pressure will make the pad / polish combination more aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy (friction heat) which may result in a strikethrough, a friction paint burn or paint delamination from the substrate. Increased surface friction will also cause swirl marks


• Heat - excessive heat and a combination of excessive pressure (surface resistance) speed and an aggressive pad / polish combination will rapidly generate surface heat, this will soften the paint and may cause delamination from the substrate, surface hazing, strikethrough and greatly increase the chance of swirls.


• Pad angle – ideally a pad should be operated flat to the surface; this provides the correct contact surface area along with sufficient surface lubrication from the polish oils. By turning a pad on an angle you reduce the surface are contact, increasing pressure and reduce the amount of surface lubrication available. Incorrect polish techniques will lead to swirl marks.


• Insufficient product - without the polish lubrication oils, dry buffing will cause delamination from the substrate, surface hazing, strikethrough and greatly increase the chance of swirls.


Removing more that 0.5 mil (12µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as UV protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is UV protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it rises to the top with the thinner solvents and particles. As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (89µ) a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.004 Mil (0.01µ) deep will usually require wet sanding and refinishing.


Grit Numbers


Sandpaper or finishing paper is the most common item from a larger group of products known as "coated abrasives" i.e. Aluminium oxide. When talking about "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper (sandpaper). The lower the grit the more abrasive and conversely, the higher the grit number the lesser (smoother) the finishing paper


When talking about abrasive finishing paper, "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of paper. It eliminates the risk of deep sanding scratches by providing a uniform grit size. This makes sense if you imagine how small the grit particles on a 1000-grit finishing paper would need to be to fit into a 1- inch square. Grit finishing paper is referred to by the size of its abrasives (i.e. 1500-grit paper) the grit you use depends on what you are trying to do.


Foam pads - are also rated on a grit number, that is to say the scratches they will remove after using grit finishing paper along with a similarly rated polish (i.e. 2500 grit rated pad and polish combination will remove the marks left after using 2500 grit finishing paper)


Polish - select an abrasive polish to match the scratch you are trying to remove; by using the least abrasive combination of polish / pads to remove the defect, before moving up to a more abrasive combination. It makes no sense to use a very aggressive polish, that will remove most scratches but to the detriment of the clear coats thickness.


Both foam pads and polishes have a grit number) most polishes will state the level of scratch removed by stating grit numbers i.e. will remove 2000 grit scratches caused by using 2000 grit finishing paper


Once you have identified the scratch ‘grit’ marks you can match a polish and a foam pad (i.e. 2500 grit marks, require a polish that is capable of removing 2500 grit (number) marks, matched with a suitable cutting pad (e.g. Menzerna Power Finish (PO203S) this is a one-step scratch remover polish that will remove 2500 grit, matched with a LC White light cutting foam pad)


1. 1000 < grit Heavy - (Compound) levels and removes heavy defects


2. 1200 grit Heavy - levels moderate to heavy defects


3. 1500 grit Medium - levels light to moderate defects


4. 2000 grit Moderate - levels light defects and removes hazing


5. 2500 grit Light - levels swirl marks, light defects and removes hazing


6. 3000 grit Fine - very minor corrective ability, burnishes paint to high gloss

Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Cleaning and Care of Vinyl Wrap and Matte Paint

Cleaning and Care of Vinyl Wrap and Matte Paint

 

These matte/satin paints are becoming more relevant for many different vehicles. They have a higher proportion of diffuse reflection and glossy paints have a greater proportion of specula reflection If polished with traditional polishes the finish will become less matte and glossier over time; do not wet-sand or use conventional wax or use an automatic car wash that uses hot wax in the final rinse, as the flattening agents that cause the matte appearance will become ‘levelled ‘

The textured finish is accomplished by a diffused 30 degree reflection and are retained very close to the clear coat surface. By levelling the surface the light will be reflected evenly and result in a ‘shine’.

Use a machine polisher and an ultra soft, zero abrasive cut (100 PPI) foam pad) with a mild chemical paint cleaner it will remove surface marring and leave it satin matte. Use a clear polymer, the key is to add surface protection and depth without adding gloss.

Swisswax Opaque products for matte finish paint and vinyl wraps have been specifically developed (oil free) to ensure that they don’t change the appearance in matt paint or vinyl wraps.

1. Wash surface with Swisswax (SV) Opaque Car Bath and a 100 % cotton pile SV Waschpudel

2. Prior to wax application the wrap needs to be totally free from oils and dirt. Clean all wrapped surfaces with SV Opaque Pre-cleaner.

3. Spray a 100% cotton micro fibre towel and apply to one panel at a time.

4. Wipe off with a clean 100% cotton towel

5. Apply SV Opaque Wax to one panel at a time, this wax will provide depth without adding a shine

6. Allow to dry for 10 minutes before buffing off and moving to the next section.

7. After the wax has out gassed and set-up, allow 2-3 hours and then buff the surface with a soft 100% cotton micro fibre towel

8. Use Quick Finish Opaque as a quick detailer to remove finger marks and smudges

Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved