TOGWT

Monday, 5 October 2015

Winter Vehicle Storage

Storing your vehicle

With the Concours d’élégance and racing season wrapped up and the temperature beginning to drop, it is time to start thinking about what you are going to do with your vehicle. Many of you will drive your car over the winter months; many others will store your vehicle for the winter. Information on storing your car will not apply to all, especially those in the sunny southern states. However, if you plan to store your car during the winter months, this is a must read.

Ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a vehicle who’s owner has store it due to an overseas assignment; for whatever reason, it only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in winter hibernation All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage. Also, notify your insurance company that you are storing the vehicle and tell them to make adjustment to the policy. A little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

Place several boxes of rodent killer (d-CON) around the car, both inside and out, in the trunk and under the hood. Rodents due to their size (3or 4 inches long) are able to squeeze into many small places where they leave droppings, urine or nest and sometimes die. The areas to check would be the engine heat shield, exhaust pipes, heater box opening, and glove box, under dashboard and seats, door storage, the center console bumper covers and the trunk.

Vehicle Storage

1. To avoid capillary action from foundation dampness; place a tarpaulin on the garage floor and it will also form a moisture barrier. A standard tarpaulin that is available from a builders merchant is fine, the thicker the better. Then place four pieces of regular lumber under each wheel position on top of the tarp.

2. Some cars have a storage switch or fuse that can be tripped to keep things like dome lights and non-essential systems from needlessly draining the battery. Check the owner's manual for the switch location or special fuse location.

3. Change the oil and filter.

4. Replace brake fluid with DOT 3

5. Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.

6. Release the fuel system pressure by removing the relay and allow the engine to run until it stalls and then replace the relay

7. Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids

8. Spray distributor with WD-40

9. Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply Collinite # 845 Liquid Insulator Wax x 2, buff the polish and then apply a second coat but do not buff. It will provide more protection and a better durability for vehicle storage purposes

10. Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leather Master’s Protection to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)

11. Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails

12. Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)

13. Close trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust so as mice do not enter, steel wool works better than rags as they cannot chew or use it for nesting material.

14. Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'

15. Over inflate the tyres (50psi) and put car on Tyre Cradles to avoid flat spots; cars with low profile tires will flat spot. It is a rule of thumb that if your car's tires have an aspect ratio of 50 or less, they will flat spot.

16. Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)

17. Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.

18. Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.

19. Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.

20. Disconnecting the battery will cause the radio pre-sets and the seat position memory to be lost. Once the battery is re-connected the engine control unit (ECU) will reset automatically (a good thing to do occasionally anyway)

Alternatively use a Deltran Battery Tender®, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC, a two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings

21. Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover

22. Store convertibles with the top up; convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.

23. Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational

A British company Bilt-Hamber Laboratories have a product - Dynax UC new high-performance anti-corrosion wax provides a touch-dry firm wax film that's virtually invisible, a low film thickness see-through protective shield. Its firm wax like film is rich in unique metal seeking corrosion inhibitors that stop existing and prevent new corrosion. It can be applied to bare metal or painted surfaces in fact anywhere where a discrete and powerful inhibitor is needed.

Completely safe to use on the vast majority of paint coatings and is ideal where dark colored waxes or under seal would detract from the painted finish of vehicle bodywork or underside. The touch dry, spray-on wax film also provides a tough mechanical protection to protected surfaces.

This is the ideal product to provide high levels of protection from salt corrosion during the winter months

Vehicle Storage Cover

Sometimes having a safe, dry, cosy place to keep your car, truck or SUV adequately protected from the elements is not enough. A Kimberly-Clark Corporation Dustop™ is a 4-layer fabric that stops all but the finest dust (less than 5 microns). The Dustop fabric with Block-It™ technology has an ultra-soft interior fabric that protects paint and enough cushioning to help prevent door dings. Car cover can be your answer by protecting your vehicle from some of the things you can't control. Using an indoor car cover is fundamental to maintaining your car’s paint while it’s in storage. It will provide you with peace of mind from dust and the minor bumps and rubs that can and do happen. Keeping your vehicle protected is smart insurance.

· Dirt & Dust Resistance - 10

· UV Sun Resistance – N/A

· Dent & Ding Resistance - 10

· Moisture Resistance – N/A

· Durability Strength - 7

· Material Breathability – 10

This car covers are designed as our best solution for storing your vehicle indoors. There are a total of 4 layers that make up this fabric.

The first two layers are polypropylene/polyethylene (PP) and act as outer protection for your vehicle against dings, dents, scratches and heat. PP offers excellent strength and stability, while PE brings superior softness. Combined, they form a soft barrier that protects your car when bumped or something is dropped on it.

When temperatures rise, this outer combination can also keep the surface and interior of the vehicle much cooler. The top two layers of the car cover can prevent sharp claws from cats and other animals that have been known to rest on your investment from scratching the painted finish. The third is a melt blown polypropylene film that traps dirt and dust and prevents it from getting to your vehicle.

Tests have demonstrated that multiple layer materials are more effective than one layer woven fabrics at keeping dirt and dust out. This is an important factor in keeping the finish of your car, truck or SUV always looking its best. Finally, the fourth layer or inner layer is a soft, high-loft spun bound composite that pampers and protects your vehicle's finish.

· 4-ply developed by Kimberly-Clark and made in the U.S.

· Soft flannel-like fabric designed as our "best" indoor cover

· Nearly dirt and dustproof, keeping vehicle surface clean

· Breathable characteristic allows for moisture evaporation

· 4-ply material provides ultimate ding and scratch protection

· Mould and mildew-resistant to protect delicate car finishes

Tyre Storage

The Tyre Garage lets you to safely store seasonal tyres outside, which frees up extra space in your storage areas. This innovative, new product is made of the same rugged, weatherproof material used for boat covers and awnings. It retains its colour and strength for years of normal exposure to sunlight and rain. It also resists mildew and cleans easily Also great for inside storage, it will cover up that unsightly pile of tyres - TOTL

· Pack each tyre separately in tyre covers (TireTote) storage bags will work just as well, provided that they are sealed.

· Store the winter tyres in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight as ultra violet (UV) radiation will cause them to dry out. Basements and garages are good storage places, as well as temperature regulated, water proof sheds. If none of these options are available, contact a reputable tyre dealer that offers tyre storage.

· Stack the tyres flat on their sides, not more than four tyres high. Tyres stacked more than four high are unstable and can tip over.

· Check the tyre pressure for each set of tyres when it's time to remount the tyres. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for the appropriate tyre pressure

Engine Start Up

· When time comes to start the engine, pull the fuel pump relay/fuse and crank the engine without it getting any fuel for a while to prime the lubrication system/circulate the oil. This will avoid washing down dry cylinder walls with fuel before it starts up.

· Remove the steel wool from the exhaust pipes

· Run the vehicles air conditioning system for a few minutes and check for leaks and / or loss of refrigerant as the seals may be dry

· Assuming you heated up the car to full operating temp after changing the oil and filter (pre-storage) at start-up there should be only minimal deposits and contamination.

· Fill the stored car with low viscosity oil during storage and if possible start the engine occasionally to ensure the oil and water gets a chance to circulate

· Drain the oil system and before replacing the oil and filter fill it with oil as this will enable oil priming upon start up and prevent dry cranking

Rodent Infestation

The mouse (Mus musculus) can at times be harmful rodents; they are carriers of more than sixty infectious diseases spreading them through their parasites and feces. They can transmit pathogens that cause diseases such as salmonellosis, a form of food poisoning. In North America, breathing dust that has come in contact with mouse excrements has been linked to Hantavirus, which may lead to Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS). So ensure you have the appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) gloves, masks, goggles and coveralls.

Remediation of odour, cleaning, sanitizing replacing components affected by the rodent to include ventilation system and cabin air filters.

Spray down with disinfectants and HEPA vacuum any droppings or materials they have contaminated. The danger from infection comes from mice droppings (feces) which look like black peppercorn and about 0.12 in long, and have a strong musty smell, its urine, which can be seen with a black light, a strong odor is more likely caused from decaying matter especially if the rodent has died.

Rodents are carriers of more than sixty infectious diseases like hanta virus and persons cleaning should wear PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) gloves, masks, goggles and coveralls, and not stir up droppings or materials contaminated. Spray down with disinfectants and HEPA vacuum any droppings or materials contaminated

Rodents due to their size (3or 4 inches long) are able to squeeze into many small places where they leave droppings, urine or nest and sometimes die. The areas to check would be the engine heat shield, exhaust pipes, heater box opening, and glove box, under dashboard and seats, door storage, the center console bumper covers and the trunk.

The odour is more likely caused from urine, faeces and / or decaying matter

Proceed to remove plenum cowling from around windshield and then clean and disinfect entire area and parts. Fog a/c ventilation ducts with disinfectants, remove cabin air filter and disinfect housing, when decontamination is complete replace cabin air filter with new.

Check behind heat shield for nests or decomposing matter, check the interior compartment, under seats to include trunk for any sign of droppings, or nests. Check electrical wiring for any damage.

Inspect all interior areas and under seats and include trunk for any sign of droppings, or nests and / or decomposing matter. Check electrical wiring for any damage. Once all areas have been checked, cleaned and disinfected, treat for odor with appropriate chemicals. When you have finished cleaning go over all hard and soft surfaces with Lysol disinfectant or a vapour steam cleaner.

Havahart® Small 1-Door Easy Set® Trap-this durable, rust resistant trap lets you set and release with just one hand, keeping you far away from the captured animal. The trap features a solid plate covering the top and doors that serves as a hand guard to limit contact with the animal

Products - Microban Mildew & Mold Remover is an environmentally-safe, anti-microbial formula that destroys bacterial odours on contact. When you cannot use chlorine, Microban is a very effective solution. The formula is a water-based, nonflammable bactericide, fungicide, deodorant and anti-microbial, all in one formulation

Application - do not dilute, use full strength, apply via sprayer to porous surfaces until moist, no not over wet, brush into carpeting, allow to dry 10-20 minutes

A vapour steam cleaning of the interior will help to sanitise and kill any remaining bacteria

Caution- use respiratory protection and gloves as the droppings (feces) constitute a health hazard that can cause an allergic reactions and respiratory problems, and cause disease

Arachnids (spiders)

Many people have an inherent fear of spiders. They are attracted to warm, dark small spaces, like panel gaps, air vents, and in the engine bay or trunk of your vehicle. Some species prefer to stay closer to the outdoors, weaving their webs in your garage, garden or near your outside lighting. Most spiders are a nuisance primarily because of their webbing.

All spiders can and will bite if in danger or accidentally touched; and any spider bite can cause a reaction, ranging from a sting type bite to those requiring hospitalization. Different people react in different ways

EcoSMART Spider Blaster - http://www.ecosmart.com/products/spider-blaster-9-oz-can/

Application:

Kills spiders (black widow, brown recluse, cellar, wolf, and others), scorpions, silverfish and other crawling insects Hold container upright and aim nozzle away from person. Press button firmly to spray. Contact as many insects as possible. For spiders, apply until web is wet. Repeat as necessary.

Spider Identification (USA) - http://www.termite.com/spiders/usa.html

Airflow Air Chamber - an ingenious indoor tent for your car which pumps up to 50,000 litres of filtered air around your car every hour. This keeps it free from moisture, helping prevent rust, mildew and other unpleasant effects of damp.

With a rigid, 3D internal frame, it stands upright so you can drive your car in after a mere 45 minute’s assembly. It’s totally portable and available in 8 sizes to fit your garage and vehicle. Turns any shed or barn into the perfect environment for storing any occasionally used items. (UK) - http://bit.ly/6fUMbL

ValuGuard Transseal TPF - a sheet film is a breathable temporary protective film designed to protect finished paint surfaces without the use of adhesives. The performance of the TPF film is very similar to that of a skin or membrane, allowing the paint surface or substrate to continue to breathe or outgas while protecting the paint finish from mutilation and/or environmental damage.

At application, the TPF film reacts like a “shrink wrap” packaging material easily conforming to component surfaces. And since the Trans Seal film is not readily affected by UV light, the film can endure long periods of outdoor exposure.

Encapsulation Storage System

A perfect solution for those enthusiasts faced with the dilemma of long-term storage of any car or truck. The unique (and patented) Car Capsule – http://www.carcapsule.com/ vehicle storage system - virtually "seals" the vehicle in its own purified environment. A continuous airflow keeps the car dry and prevents corrosion and mildew. It also eliminates that "musty" door that is so common with stored vehicles. The air is filtered, and is circulated by a highly efficient fan that costs just a little over a dollar per month to operate and is warranted for 5 years. Features an 18 oz. Herculite laminated fabric base-mat, double polished 8-mil PVC shroud and heavy-duty nylon zipper closure, the material is warranted for two years. It's easy to use, and shows-off your pride and joy while protecting it, available in a variety of sizes from 14' to 20' in length

Mould (Mold)

Stachybotrys Chartarum [: fungi that grow in the form of multi- cellular filaments, called hyphae]

[Many molds can begin growing at 4 °C (39 °F), the temperature within a typical refrigerator, or less. When conditions do not enable growth, moulds may remain alive in a dormant state depending on the species, within a large range of temperatures before they die. The many different meld species vary enormously in their tolerance to temperature and humidity extremes. Certain moulds can survive harsh conditions such as the snow-covered soils of Antarctica, refrigeration, highly acidic solvents, and even petroleum products such as jet fuel. Xerophilic molds use the humidity in the air as their only water source; other moulds need more moisture. Mold has a musty odor.]

Without identifying and eliminating the source of the mould you can't get rid of it, there are many Counteractant type products that mask odours; what you need to do is remove and clean and thoroughly dry the whole area; carpets, upholstery (inc foam and etc) that is affected, including the headliner and metal floor pan (don’t forget to clean/replace the cabin air filter).

Just like mould and mildew contamination in other areas, you cannot wash or shampoo it away. This only exasperates the problem. Mould is a form of fungus which forms anywhere there’s moisture trapped in the air, and is spread by releasing millions of tiny spores into the air. You cannot see the spores but you may be able to see moulds, grey, green or black in colour, growing on damp surfaces.

Dirt and moisture are essential to mildew propagation, which is very difficult to eradicate as mould uses enzymes to digest nutrients from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material and also down into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular pattern. Mould / mildew needs to be neutralized as it will not dissipate without treatment as the spores are still present and moisture will regenerate them

There are hundreds of thousands of types of mould, but only about ten types cause health problems, commonly sinusitis, bronchitis and other respiratory conditions, as well as allergies. I would strongly recommend you wear appropriate personal protection equipment (PPE) safety glasses, respirators; etc inhalation of mould could be very detrimental to your health and can cause an allergic reaction

There are many Counteractants products that only mask odours; what you need to do is remove and clean and disinfect the whole area; carpets, upholstery (including the upholstery foam and etc) that is affected, including the headliner and metal floor pan. Don’t forget to clean/replace the cabin air filter.

Remove the seats and thoroughly clean the carpet with a carpet cleaner and a disinfectant. Then let it air dry, or use a heater to ensure that they are completely dry. To neutralize mould use 10:1 Distiller water / (non-chlorine) bleach solution, use a syringe to inject solution into seating foam, you may need to remove and replace the carpet padding.

Microban® Disinfectant Spray environmental protection against: germs, odours, mould and mildew-http://www.baneclene.com/catalog/microban.html The first thing to do is to raise as much dirt / dust from the carpet with a brush by using a circular motion over the whole carpeted area; this will loosen the debris and bring it to the top of the carpets pile, enabling a vacuum to remove it

Sporicidin® Enzyme Mold Stain Cleaner - concentrate is a blend of enzymes in a low foaming solution formulated to loosen and remove dried debris, protein, blood and mucin deposits. It effectively cleans both natural and synthetic fibres that have been soiled with organic and inorganic debris. Ideal for use as a pre-cleaner for mould remediation, and restoration applications

· Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Mold Remediation, published by the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification (IICRC) also contains valuable information

· The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) provides free brochures to anyone who asks.

· The Center for Disease Control (CDC) and a few other organizations can be considered unbiased and reliable sources.

· The National Institute of Safety & Health (NIOSH) is also an excellent source of unbiased information.

Professional detailers – as your you’re dealing with health-related issues, bear in mind that we are living in a litigious society, so document the process / procedures used on this type of remediation.

Current Information

To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. You should never stop learning, and your quest for information should be part of your everyday process. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I detailed my first vehicle at the age of fourteen forty plus years later I started to write detailing articles to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I started to contribute to various detailing forums answering questions posted by neophyte’s, enthusiasts and professionals alike. My mantra has always been Experience Unshared Knowledge Wasted.

About the author - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/about-author.html

This is not a product vendor’s catalogue, nor am I a vendor pretending to be an educator, as there are a lot of companies that are now sponsoring detailing forums, giving advice and preaching that only the product they sell or manufacture are suitable. In reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of educators, mere salesman. Those who have something to sell can be very persuasive, often using marketing pseudo-science (i.e. blurring the distinction between science and fiction) to make a great case while completely ignoring meaningful facts, like their product adds nothing of real value.

I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the product recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the box" and it suits my detailing goals.

The products mentioned have been personally subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field testing, and I have found that they will perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal recommendation, using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Thursday, 1 October 2015

Hard / Soft Paint Correction

Paint is a liquid, but as it dries it becomes a solid and a gas (the solvent) that evaporates, leaving behind the solid. The three primary type of ingredients found in all paints are (1) Binder (film former) (2) Vehicle (solvent) (3) Solutes (pigment). The binder is the film-forming component of paint, it imparts properties such as gloss, durability, flexibility, and toughness.

Many binders are too thick to be applied and must be thinned. The thinner is also called the carrier system or vehicle, because it makes it possible to transfer the binder to the surface. The pigment provides the paint with colour. Some paints form by solvent evaporation only, but most rely on cross-linking processes

One of the most often asked questions; “What polish / pad combination should I use to remove scratches?”

There are far too many variables to state this accurately.

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; (see Test Panel Area) before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

Differing density (hardness) of paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat

Compiling a chart that lists the consistency of automotive paint can only at best be a rough guide, as this would necessitate listing by; manufacturer, OEM assembly plant, model year, colour, new or aged, paint specification, and etc. To ascertain paint hardness requires extensive experience working on a wide range of vehicles to have a point of reference.

Identical vehicles of the same make and model/year can react very differently to compounds/polishes/etc. There are too many variables (paint spec, curing method, paint age, etc.)

Hardness

[In materials science, hardness is the characteristic of a solid material expressing its resistance to permanent deformation. There are three principal operational definitions of hardness: Scratch hardness, Indentation hardness, Rebound or dynamic hardness]

Modern clear coat urethane even though they are harder than lacquer paints, they still scratch more easily. And because they tend to be harder it's more difficult and time consumer to remove swirls and scratches. This is the main reason to take vendor claims of ‘provides 9H hardness ‘for what it is – totally irrelevant.

How can a dense (hard) clear coat be so easily scratched? Force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material. (Newton's third law of motion)

Hardness is dependent on ductility, elasticity, plasticity, strain, strength, toughness and viscosity; suffice to say it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, because if it is not then inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective

Hard and soft are relative terms; you can forces are the subject of Newton's third law of motion; the law of reciprocal actions [: to every action there is an equal and opposite reaction]

If you press down on your paint finish with your palm it feels really hard and tough, but that’s because the surface area of your palm is relatively large and what you’re actually feeling is the resistance of the steel underneath the paint. Try pressing your thumb nail into the paint with the same amount of force you used with your palm, if you dare.

Scratch resistance can be related to higher cross-link density and elasticity of the polymer network The theory is that a dense cross-linked (hard) paint provides better protection from scratches and stone chips, whereas a less dense (soft) paint absorbs the impact is not based upon scientific fact.

In solid mechanics, solids generally have three responses to force, depending on the amount of force and the type of material:

· Elasticity—the ability to temporarily change shape, but return to the original shape when the pressure is removed.

· Plasticity—the ability to permanently change shape in response to the force, but remain in one piece

Fracture—split into two or more pieces.

Surface friction

Automotive paint surfaces contain microscopic peaks and valleys, much like the profile of a mountain range. These irregularities are known as capillary structures; there may be millions of these defects per square inch. Contaminants such as fine dirt, minerals, and pollutants are drawn into the voids where they are extremely hard to remove.

The filling of the capillary structures with micro particles produces a hydrophobic surface. (a hydrophobic surface is one that repels moisture.) In contrast, a hydrophilic surface is one that absorbs moisture.

The potential of a surface to absorb or repel moisture is based on many factors, including: temperature, relative humidity, material homogeneity, and static electricity. Surface roughness is also a major factor; the rougher the surface, the higher the spreading rate or attraction for water. The smoother the surface, the more repellent it is to moisture (Lotus Effect) and it lessens the chance of surface marring.

Paint density

Paint / clear coat hardness, or more accurately, density, can be affected by a number of factors including the composition of the clear coat used (i.e. single, dual component or powder coating) and how it is applied. There is a trade-off at the manufacturing stage between scratch resistance and gloss levels vs. oven drying time and temperature, along with the quality of the isocyanates and the products designed to add gloss and accelerate paint hardening times.

Low cross-link densities raise the viscosities of the polymer (soft). Intermediate cross-link densities transform gummy polymers into materials that have elastomeric properties and potentially high strengths. Very high cross-link densities (hard) can cause materials to become very rigid with a high gloss

Paint density is determined primarily by OEM paint specification requirements, the variables are; the type of resin used, the type of hardeners and other additives, types of solvents used and the paint drying process used.

Somewhat surprisingly, paint hardness actually varies significantly between different makes of car, and also in some cases between different ages of the same make and model of car. The reasons why this is so being quite complicated, but suffice to say it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, because if it is not then inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective.

A unique aspect of polyurethane chemistry is that the hydrogen bonding acts as an additional crosslink, but also allows thermoplastic flow, which helps the paint surface to retain its elasticity and its tensile strength to relieve mechanical stress.

The basic structure of a polyurethane clear coat features a soft segment (polyol or tetra methylene ether) which gives it flexibility and elasticity. There is also a hard segment (polymerization) that has high urethane density, which gives the coating hardness and tensile strength

In polymer chemistry, when a synthetic polymer is said to be "cross-linked", it usually means that the entire bulk of the polymer has been exposed to the cross-linking method. The resulting modification of mechanical properties depends strongly on the cross-link density

• Each vehicle assembly plant uses different clear coat paint from one of three major paint suppliers; PPG, DuPont, and BASF products and each of these companies have a range of several differing paints

• Most vehicle manufacturers will issue a painting specification that denotes amongst other things; a paint to hardener ratio, dependent upon quality control this spec may or may not be strictly adhered to

• Some vehicle manufacturers have more than one plant assembling the same model of a vehicle; each plant will often use a different supplier for the clear coat paints.

• Each assembly plant may elect to use one of several OEM paints from PPG, DuPont or BASF clear coat product lines.

This is also true of imports assembled in the US; usually one paint supplier is approved for all plants; however, each plant may modify the application/bake process in order to meet production demand. This may also affect which has the harder or softer clear.

There are other factors that will have an effect; the composition of the clear coat used (single, duel component, or powder) this generally reflects the trade-off the OEM is prepared to accept between scratch resistance and gloss level considered acceptable, oven drying time and its temperature, quality of the quality of the isocyanates used, relevant age (i.e. how long ago was the paint applied) spot panel repairs (refinish) that are carried out either at the assembly plant or the rail head or port of entry. Paint density (soft paint) could also be caused if it was polished before the paint had time to fully cure

To date only water-based paints are used for the base coat, the clear coat is still a VOC compliant, low ratio solvent- based paint, which will be denser, dependent upon the quality of the isocyanates used. There are also a couple of other factors; OEM use a different resin (Melamine) which must be heat cured (300.⁰F) which produces a denser (hard) paint that tends to be more difficult to polish, whereas body shops use an acrylic resin based clear coat.

Paint can be very complex and yet really interesting; in polymer chemistry, when a synthetic polymer is said to be cross-linked, it usually means that the entire bulk of the polymer has been exposed to the cross-linking method. The resulting modification of mechanical properties depends strongly on the cross-link density.

This is how tight or dense the paint matrix becomes after is it fully cured, think of a paint matrix like that of chicken wire mesh, a small mesh (dense) larger mesh..., I think you get the analogy. Hard paint has a dense cross-link density, whereas low density (soft) paint has a less cross-link density.

Specific gravity [: the ratio of the density (mass of a unit volume) of a substance to the density (mass of the same unit volume) of a reference substance] using water as a reference it’s SG is 1.00 at 20.OC, a substance with a relative density (or specific gravity) less than 1.0 will float. Relative density (RD) or specific gravity (SG) is a dimensionless quantity, as it is the ratio of either densities or weights

Paint density - fumed silica is often used as a hardener; it has a low specific gravity and rises to the upper layers of the paint. This is part of the reason for clear coats being ‘soft’ below 7.5 µ (0.3 Mil) fumed silica paint hardeners are evenly distributed throughout the clear when applied, however, as part of the curing process; the majority migrate to the top of the clear coat. This is why many paint renovation detailers observe a less dense (softer) clear after the removal of 12.5 µ (micron) or 0.5 Mil.

The reasons why this is so being quite complicated, but suffice to say it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, because if it is not then inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective.

Scratch resistance - can be related to higher cross-link density and elasticity of the polymer network. Low cross-link densities raise the viscosities of the polymer (soft). Intermediate cross-link densities transform gummy polymers into materials that have elastomeric properties and potentially high strengths. Very high cross-link densities (Hard) can cause materials to become very rigid with a high gloss

The scratch hardness of organic paints / coatings is greatly influenced by factors such as the nature of the metal substrate, the thickness of the coating and the temperature and humidity of the surroundings. Little information is available about the effect of these factors on the scratch hardness and how this property is affected during the course of weathering. Tests were conducted using a power-driven automatic Erichsen scratch hardness tester, on paint coatings air-dried for 48 hours and then aged in the laboratory for various periods over a span of 300 days.

It was found that some coatings which showed a fairly low scratch hardness during initial testing attained a significantly greater hardness during the course of ageing. The thickness of the coating had no significant influence on the hardness during the early periods of air-drying. However, with aged coatings, scratch hardness was observed to increase significantly with the thickness of the coating.

Dense paint is very resistant to correction; some paints will correct with a single pass and look incredible, ready for wax even. Others will correct just as easily but leave a hazy appearance that needs to be cleaned up with a less aggressive polish and a soft pad.

The best way to detail paint, wither it is hard or soft (dense or less dense); is by using the least aggressive pad / polish combination followed, if necessary by an incrementally more aggressive approach until you find what works.

• Dense (Hard) paint - paint requires a more aggressive abrasive polish and takes more time to correct. But a dense (hard) paint makes it easier to get that perfect gloss. PPG's Optech™ or CeramiClear™ respond better to polishes / compounds formulated for this type of paint density.

•

Less dense (Soft) paint- responds to abrasives more readily and makes polishing easier, but it’s easier to induce surface marring.

• Water-based paint is generally more porous and less dense (softer)

• Solvent-based clear coat paint is usually denser (harder) than a water-based paint and not as porous

As always generalizing carries a degree of risk as a panel(s) may have been re-painted. Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired results with your selected polish / pad combination proceed

PPG's Optech™ or CeramiClear™ respond better to polishes / compounds formulated for this type of paint density.

Paint is graded by its density by a Durometer; one of several measures of the hardness of a material. Like many other hardness tests, it measures the depth of an indentation in the material created by a given force. Clear coats can be made with harder or softer densities and that will also determine its scratch resistance.

The enamel paint finishes on vehicles from the 50’s and 60’s era were as tough as porcelain. But rightly due to environmental concerns, that high percentage petroleum based paints have been generally superseded, resulting in the softer water-based paint finishes of today and the unavoidable orange-peel seen on many new and re-painted vehicles.

Today’s paints, unfortunately, rank somewhere near the bottom of the Mohr’s scale of hardness, especially single coat black / red paint the exception being white single stage and PPG's Optech™ or CeramiClear™, when compared to all the materials your paint can possibly come in contact with (always bear that in mind).

Mohr’s Comparative Hardness Scale

An adaptation of that hardness scale (1 / 10)

1. Talc = 1

2. Carbon Black [black paint pigmentation] = 2

3. Glass = 6

4. Titanium dioxide [white paint pigmentation] = 7

5. Diamond =10

It is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, otherwise inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

Pencil Hardness

The Pencil Hardness Test provides a simple method to test the scratch hardness of coatings. In this test, pencils in a range of 6B to 8H hardness-grade are used. Pencils graded using this system is used to measure the hardness and resistance of varnishes and paints. The resistance of a coating (also known as its pencil hardness) is determined as the grade of the hardest pencil that does not mark the coating when pressed firmly against it at a 45-degree angle.

Select a pencil and make a line about one-inch-long on the paint sample. If the pencil leaves a scratch, then take the next softer pencil and do the same thing. The number of the first pencil that you use after you have made a scratch in the coating that doesn't leave a mark is considered the "pencil hardness" of the coating. (There are some coatings that are so hard that even the 9H pencils will not scratch them. All of those coatings get a 9H pencil hardness rating to designate their hardness.)

Pencil Hardness for Common Coatings

· Catalysed polyurethane: 7H

· Catalysed modified acrylic polyurethane: 4H

· Catalysed acrylic polyurethane: 2H

· Water-based polyurethane: 3H

· Water-based urethane/isocyanate catalyst: 2H

· Low-VOC lacquer: 3H

· Low-VOC catalysed lacquer: 2H (24 hours)

· Urethane/nitrocellulose lacquer: F (24 hours)

· Clear shellac aerosol: 3B

· Polyurethane/nitrocellulose aerosol: HB

Hard / Soft Paint Correction

Experienced detailers can evaluate paint condition quickly and accurately but they still perform a test spot to make sure they choose the right methodology. Experience with different OEM paint density and colour will teach you that no two vehicle paints, even the same marque and paint colour are the same. Paint correction is a complex process with many variables; polisher, type and abrasive level of pads and polish or compound, speed and pressure used, and etc.

Dense (Hard) paint - is very resistant to correction; if you see very little change on your ‘test’ providing you are using an appropriate polish / pad combination and proper technique and you’re seeing very little correction you've got fairly hard paint.

When dealing with less dense (soft) paint, your ‘test panel’ looks far from perfect most neophyte’s are under the impression that they need to get more aggressive. Nothing could be further from the truth, even though the finish may not look all that great, it is an improvement from where they started. Usually a less dense or intermediate density (soft or medium soft) paint will result in really bad hazing.

Really dense (hard) paint (DuPont's SupraShield™, PPG's Optech™ and CeramiClear™) - will rarely haze; it’s usually very unresponsive but will show signs of improvement after a few passes

Some paints will finish with just a single pass; others will finish with a ‘haze’ that requires that you 'finish' with a less abrasive pad / polish combination. There are some paints that have a very low density (very soft) paint that allow swirls and micro marring, etc. to be removed easily but it just appears dull and flat no matter what you do. A very gentle approach is called for in those cases, requiring a uniformly applied pressure across the pad / backing plate

Does paint density (hardness) affect its scratch resistance?

Many coating products claim an obtained surface hardness of 9H or 3 Gpa+, but this has little if anything to do with scratch resistance. Scratch resistance can be related to higher cross-link density and elasticity of the polymer network.

So how can a dense (hard) clear coat be so easily scratched?

Force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material. (Newton's third law of motion)

That’s why a micro fine thread that is twice as fine as silk and a 100 times finer than a human hair, in an otherwise soft towel will scratch your paint. And the same reason a mosquito can penetrate a rhino hide with its proboscis (stinger).

This can best be summed up as: your car’s paint finish, though it may feel hard, is actually rather soft. Nearly everything else that comes in contact with it, though it may feel soft, is harder by comparison and will scratch it with enough pressure – sometimes just the slightest of pressure.

Test Panel Area

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

Modern automotive paint systems of whatever density (hardness) pose unique challenges to the detailer, to determine the correct polish/and pad combination, machine methodology. This requires a ‘test panel’ to see how the selected polish set-up responses to the paint, and wither it will remove the surface scratches

Select a ‘typical’ 18 x 18 – inch area -one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and starting with the least abrasive polish and / pad combination and then proceed until the defects are removed. This is the polish / pad combination you’ll need to use. Selecting the correct pad / polish combination for the vehicles paint / defects can take just as long as the paint correction process

Science of Scratches

Dictum [: a universally accepted principle or rule]

Dictum I

In a clash between two materials the harder material will come out unscathed – unscratched – and the softer material will wear the battle scars.

Dictum II

Hard and soft are relative terms; you can scratch the “hard” surface of your car’s paint finish with a “soft” towel if I apply enough (localized) pressure.

Dictum III

This one is really short and simple and rather obvious. Heat makes solids softer; cold makes them harder. Keep that in mind when detailing your car in the sun or on a really, really hot day.

OEM Paints

Glidden, Nason, Sherwin Williams, Sikkens, PPG Protective and Marine Coatings, DuPont™ Performance Coatings, Spies Hecker® (part of DuPont, used mostly by European auto manufacturers) and BASF coatings, each of these companies have a range of several differing paints.

Paint is a simple mixture of ingredients including pigments, a binder and diluents, or thinner (in a water-based paint it is water; in a solvent-based paint, it is petroleum solvent). The clear coat also has ultra violet protection added to protect the paint matrix.

Automotive paints utilizing modern paint technology using water-based high solid/low solvent urethane that for environmental reasons produce a much softer and more porous finish than acrylic or oil based high solvent content paint systems.

Using permanent pigmentations and colorants specifically designed for automotive applications (containing automotive-grade binders). Albeit a non-toxic (less than 0.01-percent VOC) water-based paint, there are no compatibility issues with major-brand urethane and polyurethane clear coats.

Nano technology Coatings

DuPont's SupraShield™, PPG's Optech™ and CeramiClear™ Clear Coat are all binary clear coat compositions using ceramic particles designed to offer long-term scratch resistance, gloss and durability

Working with PPG, BASF and Mercedes Benz, in 2003 Menzerna developed special polishes for use on PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat for removing scratches, swirls and paint defects Beyond superior abrasives, Menzerna has pioneered the development of polishes designed specifically for the hard clear coats, like those used by General Motors on the Corvette and PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat being used by Ferrari and Mercedes- Benz.

Super Intensive and Nanotechnology Polish are currently used by Mercedes - Benz in Germany on their production line to remove swirls and over-spray incurred during the painting process. Some OEM paint specification require a dense (hard) clear coat paint- Audi, BMW, Nissan and VW and others.

Relevant Publications

1. Determining the Surface Hardness of Paint Coatings – Pencil Testing vs. Instrumented Indentation Testing by Helmut Fisher

2. Hardness testing of Organic Coatings - IUPAC

Current Information

A little science is useful to understand both the How and Why of detailing and to be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available.

The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

I detailed my first vehicle at the age of fourteen (1958) forty plus years later I started to write detailing articles to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I started to contribute to various detailing forums answering questions posted by neophyte’s, enthusiasts and professionals alike. My mantra has always been

Experience Unshared Knowledge Wasted.

About the author - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/about-author.html

I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the product recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the tin" and it suits my detailing goals. The products mentioned have been personally subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field testing, and using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

It has been my experience that they will perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal recommendation, as this testing is carried out without sponsorship I have no intention of publishing any test results. Using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated