Wheel Surface Cleaning

Apart from aesthetics damage to your wheels is the result of improperly maintained wheels. Road salt and brake dust that sits on an unprotected wheel will eventually lead to the corrosion of metals, pitting and peeling of the paint and discoloration. A properly maintained and protected wheel will dramatically prolong the life of these materials.

Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact with newly washed surfaces.

There are many different finishes and materials available for rims, determine what type of rims, for example, powder coated, painted, clear coated, polished, chromed, etc and then decide on an appropriate product and cleaning method.  

Most modem automotive wheels have a painted aluminium base with two or three clear coats applied (on the ‘front’ of the wheel but not the back, these are usually just a primer paint surface) and are subjected to similar type contaminants as the paint film surface, including acid rain, airborne pollutants, alkaline water as well as road tar debris.

Wheel surfaces are subjected to intense heat, road oil and debris and generally, they see more abuse than any other visible surface on the car. Wheel cleaning is not that difficult, especially if you use the correct tools, they have to work safely but effectively.

Wheel cleaners that contain acid are the most dangerous, there are wheel acids that are safe if used with care and the directions are followed precisely. Accidents and expensive wheel replacements can always be avoided if you do some research and are smart about your choices.

Any wheel cleaner that touts spray-on, hose-off without agitation is a danger to both you and the environment. Use a cleaner that contains no acids, petroleum solvents, butyl or butyl ethers of any kind. Spraying alloy wheels with an acid or lye-based cleaner will almost instantly remove the clear finish, staining the wheel surface a milky-white. An acid can migrate into minuscule cracks and fissures in the wheel's finish and begin to flake off the clear coat. An effective wheel cleaner should be pH-balanced (slightly alkaline to counteract the acidic conditions found on most roadways).

Determine which product and concentration to use based on experience.

· 1:2 dilution for lightly soiled wheels (1 part concentrate plus 2 parts distilled water)

· Undiluted concentrate for heavily soiled wheels

Always check the products MSDS and its pH value before you use it. It is always preferable that you use a 100% acid-free product with a pH of 7.5 – 8.5.

 If the wheel surface has rash, chips, scratches or the surface is compromised or is uncoated you could end up doing a very significant amount of damage both cosmetically and structurally by using an acidic product. PH-controlled [:  means it follows the major automotive manufacturer’s guidelines for exterior cleaners; the control limit being pH 10.0<]

Use Caution - braking efficiency is reduced after washing the wheels/brakes. This could cause an accident. For this reason, following a car wash, drive with particular care until the brakes are dry.

A warning about acids and HF

Of all the chemicals used in the detail business, wheel acids are the most dangerous to the wheel, the employee and the environment. Many contain hydrofluoric (HF) acid which is extremely harmful if you get it on your skin, in your eyes or inhale it and is not recommended.

With any wheel acid, you should always wear safety equipment. This means glasses and gloves and the work should be done in a well-ventilated area.

Non-acid wheel cleaners, while not as dangerous, have a high pH (12 or 13). They are harmful to your eyes and will severely dry out your hands if not used with gloves. So do not be fooled into thinking that they are not dangerous. They will also etch a painted surface just like an acid

Also, repeated use of wheel acid can break down in the resin in the clear-coat and cause it to cloud and/or deteriorate. So use acid only when absolutely necessary.Remember: Just because it cleans faster than non-acid does not mean you should always use it.

Wheel Balancing Weights

Remove any adhesive residue with 3M™ Adhesive Remover is a ready-to-use blend of safe petroleum solvents designed to remove adhesive deposits from exterior vehicle surfaces. To minimise the possibility of staining, do not apply in direct sunlight or onto a hot surface. Not for sale in California.

Suggested replacement: 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner

Brake Dust

Airborne ferrous particles containing iron actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint's sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface.

Modern brake pads are complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder system) used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also corrosive and will etch the wheel surface this is designed to wear away under friction like the rest of the pad. These materials become sintered (heat etched) to the wheel surfaces and rims due to the high kinetic (friction) temperature conditions they are normally exposed to. Brake dust contains high levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to dissolve or remove and will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint surface of your wheels

Removal

· Hose off as much initial grime as you can.

· Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.

· Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants

· Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash  to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing

· Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and let soak in

· For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use Aquartz IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface; allow reacting, and then agitating with a wheel brush before hosing off.

· Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the clear coated parts) Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off (See Wheel Brushes)

Caution – do not use acidic or neutralised acid products on compromised (i.e. kerbed, flaking or pitted chrome) as they will damage the nickel coating underneath, causing plating failure. Chrome plating is applied over nickel; which provides the reflectivity and most of the corrosion resistance. The plating is exceptionally thin, measured in microns

The chemicals used in products like IronX, Ferrex, et al are harmful if they come into contact with bare skin, wear hand protection

Do not use the same towels for both bodywork and wheel surfaces.  It’s better to earmark separate towels for the wheels

Use Caution - braking efficiency is reduced after washing the wheels/brakes. This could cause an accident. For this reason, following a car wash, drive with particular care until the brakes are dry.

Cleaning Clear Coated Wheels

To distinguish bare (no clear coat) aluminium, by using a metal polish will turn the cloth black; otherwise, they probably have a clear coat paint finish. Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause them to warp.

· Normal cleaning-P21S Total Auto Wash (1:10 diluted solution)

· Cleaning – P21S Wheel Cleaner (balanced pH)

· Heavy cleaning – IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner (neutralised acid pH 7)

Periodically remove the wheels to thoroughly clean and inspect them for damage

· Hose off as much initial grime as you can.

· Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.

· Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants

· Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash  to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing

· Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and let soak in

· For badly soiled surfaces use C.Quartz IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface, allow to react, and then agitate with a wheel brush before hosing off

· Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the clear coated parts)

· Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off (See Wheel Brushes)

· Rinse wheel surface thoroughly with clean water (to avoid splashing paint surface rise by pouring a bucket of water over each wheel from the top down

· Remove any surface imperfections with a suitable clear coat polish (dependent upon extent of damage)

· Dry wheels with a forced air blower; these are extremely powerful and will dry the whole car and the wheels as well. A good tip; flush the rotors and callipers with water until it comes out clear.

· Apply a polymer sealant (Wheel Wax, Collinite Metal Wax # 850 or ZoopSeal) to the surface of the wheels, it will protect the finish from brake dust and the elements and also make them easier to keep clean.

· Organic wax has a low melting point and will not withstand the sustained temperature surfaces are subjected to

General purpose APC - dilute Optimum Power Clean™ up to 3:1 to safely clean, vinyl, paint, and plastics. Remove old dash dressings and tough residues from interior panels and wheel surfaces. Special polymers and emulsifiers break down contaminants with minimal agitation. Use caution when cleaning as the finish on some callipers use a powder coating (Brembo, etc) that can be stained by some wheel cleaners. (See Powder Coated Finishes)

Chrome Wheels

If you've ever seen a brilliant shine on a wheel with a mirror like finish, you were probably looking at chrome. Although a chrome wheel looks great when clean, they are somewhat difficult to maintain and keep looking new. Chrome is easily damaged by brake dust and road debris. Chrome wheels should not be used in the winter. It is extremely soft finish and once you get a chip in the finish, water, salt corrosion etc can easily get under the chrome plating causing it to fail.

1. Clean wheel surface with P21S Total Auto Wash

2. Remove any road tar (bitumen) using Optimum Power Clean ™

3. For normal brake dust clean surfaces with P21S Wheel Cleaner, a mild balanced pH cleaner

4. For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use Aquartz IronX (see note 1) formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface; allow reacting, and then agitating with a wheel brush before hosing off.

5. Use P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, a mild wheel cleaner that's pH balanced making it simple, gentle, and effective. Its primary function is to return the metal to its stock finish. It will remove a lot of the tarnish from their finish, along with any other contaminants. It can also be used on lightly tarnished aluminium, exhaust tips, or any other tarnished metals.

6. P21S® Finish Restorer - this product is primarily a polish, used for metals to refine their finish as opposed to a cleaning product to remove contaminants from metal finishes. These two products can be used together, first using the polishing soap and then the finish restorer. Finish restorer can be used on its own on metal that is only lightly tarnished.

7. Using a wheel bush (Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush or Wheel Woolies ) to agitate cleaning product will make them more effective and help to get into hard to reach places

Note; Do not use any kind of acid on compromised finishes i.e. kerbed, peeling or chipped chrome plating

Polished Aluminium

A bare, high polished aluminium wheel can shine almost like chrome, and unfortunately, many people who buy this type of aftermarket wheel assume the wheels are chrome so they choose a chrome wheel cleaner, which used on bare, high polished aluminium, will stain the surface white almost instantly

They can be either a clear coated, anodised, or bare polished aluminium in which case different types of polishes are needed for each. Test for bare (uncoated) aluminium by using a metal polish, which will turn the cloth black. There are two recommended products; each will work differently, used separately or in tandem, they will produce a great finish.

Aluminium Wheel Polishing:

Un-coated aluminium wheels are an aftermarket product (not OEM) Uncoated; (to test apply a mild polish, if the applicator turns black (a chemical reaction between nickel and the polish then there is no clear coat on the paint finish if the wheels are clear coated see Cleaning Wheels and Tyres.

Uncoated aluminium is always in a state of tarnish (oxidation) as this is its natural sacrificial coating in the presence of air and become coated with a thin film of oxide (so-called ‘white rust’) that pacifies the metal and slows further corrosion

OEM aluminium wheels are coated and should be cleaned like any other coated wheel finish. P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, so it is simple, gentle, and effective, it will return the metal to an OEM finish and it will remove most of the tarnish, as well as any other contaminants. It also works on any lightly tarnished aluminium in your engine bay, exhaust tips, or any other metals that are tarnished.  

P21S® Finish Restorer - this is a polishing product to refine a cleaned finish as opposed to cleaning; it’s formulated to polish metals and refine their finish. Used after the surface has been cleaned with the polishing soap or as a finish restorer on metal that is only lightly tarnished.

     Methodology

· Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause the rotors warp. Hose off as much initial grime as you can.

· Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.

· Use detailing clay to remove any embedded contaminants

· Remove road tar with a solvent (Stoners™ Tarminator)

· Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash  or P21S® Polishing Soap (a clay-based polish that applies with its own sponge) to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing

· Remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH wheel cleaner (P21S® Wheel Cleaner)

· For really soiled surfaces use Sonax Wheel Cleaner full effect on a dry surface

·  Agitate with a soft boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water

· Remove scratches with finishing grit paper (grit number will depend upon severity of scratch)

· To remove tough stains such as oxidation and acid rain water spots, use a cutting polish (Wenol Original (Red tube) or a fine metal polish (Auto Wenol Blue tube) to remove rain water spotting and produce a bright shine (follow Wenol Original with Auto Wenol) apply products with a 100% DFT cotton micro towel

· Magnesium or aluminium wheels can be polished with a water-soluble polish (Happich Semichrome Polish, ECP Showman Polish or Autosol)

· For difficult to reach places use a felt polishing buffer on an electric drill (Dremel or Griot’s Felt Polishing Cone Set)

· Apply surface protection (G|Techniq C5 Wheel Sealant) 

Polished Aluminium Lips

They can be either a clear coated, anodised, or bare polished aluminium (using a metal polish will turn the cloth black if the metal is not coated) in which case different types of polishes are needed for each.

1. Bare (uncoated) aluminium; remove any grease with a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash. Use Optimum ™ Metal Polish and a Mother’s Powerball and then wash with P21S® Polishing Soap

2. Clear coated; Wash surface with P21S® Total Auto Wash, remove any brake dust/tar and then use a polymer sealant

3. Apply surface protection (Optimum Polymer Technologies Opti-Seal™)

Waterless Wash

Optimum Polymer Technologies ( ONR) has set the standard in waterless washing by using encapsulating polymers and surfactants to safely remove dirt/grime without causing surface scratching.

Waterless polymer based systems do not require pre-wetting the surfaces. A combination of polymers and surfactant cleaners safely removes dirt and grime and leaves a glossy protective finish. The polymers and surfactants used in these non-rinse washes have the capability to bond to dirt particles and act as a barrier between the dirt particles and the paint. The grime and dirt are then trapped in the surfactant, protecting the paint finish without the need to use large amounts of water to flush the dirt off the vehicle.

Used as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc; cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car. For best results, swirl-free results, use Optimum's high lubricity wash Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 

Simply mist diluted 1:3 with distilled water on to micro fibre towel and then wipes off residue. Fold your towel into quarters and rotate to expose a fresh surface for best results. It dries instantly and doesn't leave behind a greasy film like other products. Utilising special cleaning agents you can gently clean your entire car. It quickly lifts and separates oils, dust, dirt and other contaminants. The substantive polymers help suspend contaminants so they can be removed safely. It also provides meaningful protection on every surface you apply it to. For use on - vinyl, plastic, paint, metal, rubber and etc. finish will look clean and new with minimal effort.

To remove salt and road grit or to clean really soiled surfaces I would suggest a pre-rinse to remove the larger dirt particles first before being washed. Then use the ONR concentrates or the traditional two-bucket wash method or if you have a pressure washer available to remove the larger dirt/salt particles

Matte Wheel Finish

If polished with traditional polishes the finish will become less matte and glossier over time; do not wet-sand or use conventional wax or use an automatic car wash that uses hot wax in the final rinse, as the flattening agents that cause the matte appearance will become ‘levelled ‘The textured finish is accomplished by a diffused 30 degrees reflection and are retained very close to the clear coat surface. By levelling the surface the light will be reflected evenly and result in a ‘shine’.

Use a machine polisher and an ultra-soft, zero abrasive cut (100 PPI) foam pad) with a mild chemical paint cleaner it will remove surface marring and leave it satin matte.  Use a clear polymer, the key is to add surface protection and depth without adding gloss.

Swisswax Opaque products for Matte or Satin Finish paint and have been specifically developed (oil free) to ensure that they don’t change the appearance of matte or satin paint.

1. Remove any sintered brake or rail dust contaminants with a suitable cleaner (C.Quartz IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner)

2. Wash surface with Swisswax (SV) Opaque Car Bath

3. Prior to wax application, the wrap needs to be totally free from oils and dirt. Clean all wrapped surfaces with SV Opaque Pre-cleaner. 

4. Spray a 100% cotton micro fibre towel and apply to one panel at a time.

5. Wipe off with a clean 100% cotton towel

6. Apply SV Opaque Wax to one panel at a time, this wax will provide depth without adding a shine

7. Allow drying for 10 minutes before buffing off and moving to the next section.

8. After the wax has out gassed and set-up, allow 2-3 hours and then  buff the surface with a soft 100% cotton micro fibre towel

9. Use Quick Finish Opaque as a quick detailer to remove finger marks and smudges

Wheel cleaner pH comparisons

· Amazing Roll-Off (pH 14.0) contains butyl

· Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity Cleaner (pH of 13.0) contains butyl

· Bilberry is acid-free but highly caustic - 13.0

· Multi-purpose cleaners (pH between 9.5 and 12.0)

· Blackfire Gel Wheel and Tire Cleaner (pH 12.5)

· P21S® Bodywork Shampoo (ph 8.0)  

· P21S Wheel Cleaner (pH ‘controlled’ 9.0) Green

· P21S Wheel Cleaner (422) Red Gel Formula (pH 9.5)

· Sonax Autopflege Wheel Cleaner full effect (pH ‘controlled’ 9.5)

· Menzerna Tire & Wheel Cleaner (pH7.5) detergent-based cleaners with surfactants, wetting agents and oil emulsifiers

· Griot’s Wheel Cleaner (pH 7.1)

· Meguiar's D140 Wheel Brightener (pH 5.5) contains Ammonium bi-fluoride SiO2 (ABF)

Wheel Detailing Brush

These are what I consider to be the minimum requirements for a wheel brush-

· Durability: they have to last, even when used with pressure, especially its shaft

· Non-scratch: the material, fibres or the shaft tip should not cause scratches to the wheel surface

· Cleaning ability: a brush and stem that is able to withstand the (reasonable) pressure required to clean stubborn stains.

· Brush head bristles or fibres that won cause the wheel cleaner to back spray

· Easy cleaned after use

a) The Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush - has a thicker, reinforced stem, but maintains its flexibility although the new stem is more rugged for frequent use on auto wheels. The bristles are slightly feathered on the ends to gently clean delicate wheel finishes, such as coated or plated wheels, without scratching.

b) E-Z Detail Brush - is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other brushes can reach.

E-Z Detail Brush, there are three versions of the brush

· Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush (18 x 4.5 – inch)

· EZ Detail Brush mini (13 x 2.5 – inch )

· EZ Detail Motorcycle Brush (18 x 4.5-inch )

c) Eimann Fabrik Lamb’s Wool Wheel Woolies - wool wheel cleaning brushes, these brushes drastically cut the amount of time it takes to clean almost any kind of wheel. Each brush is 12- inches long with three differing diameter brush head sizes and a chemical resistant handle and a bonded wool head. Proper Auto Care 

d) Spoke & Slot Brush - simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into wheel crevices. Lamb’s Wool Spoke Brush - it replaces those awkward spoke brushes that never seem to be the right size and lack soft bristles on the tip. This tapered Ultra soft tool is completely covered with 100% lamb’s wool and is small enough to squeeze between spokes, slots and around bolts 6 1/2" long, 1/2" to 2" in diameter - TOTL

f) Microfiber Cleaning Wand - the special microfiber thick nap cleans tight spaces in; (0.5"x1.5"x12") wheels use dry or moisten with water for extra cleaning power - no chemical cleaners are needed Machine washable, air dry, and no fabric softener. Refills are available – Casabella

g) Power Sticks - are designed to be used with your cordless drill, simply wet the wheel with water, spray on your favourite wheel cleaner, attach the Power Stick to your cordless drill, dip the brush end into a bucket of soapy water and allow the friction of the Power Stick's Super Soft Cloth to gently scrub away brake dust clear to the back of the wheel.

h) Deluxe Wheel & Brake Dust Remover Brush - was created to make sure those wheels aren't overlooked. It offers a strong scour pad to remove brake dust from your wheel, as well as outer soft bristles to clean wheels while protecting that new wheel finish. Grip Tech™ handle for non-slip, easy to grip, with stiff bristle tips to clean in between spokes flexible brush that bend to get into hard to reach rim crevices Removes brake dust and other grime while keeping the wheels shiny and clean

i) Laitner Ergonomic Spoke/ Slot Wheel Brush - removes brake dust between spokes and in narrow slot openings. The narrow wheel brush has soft, chemical resistant bristles to safely clean all types of wheels without scratching. A comfortable handle has a soft, non-slip grip. Polypropylene bristles are securely fastened a soft, non-slip handle with a tough wire core. The wire is completely covered with soft bristles and a rubber tip protects the wheel from contact. The brush is built to withstand solvents, acids, petroleum products, and detergents. 

The synthetic materials hold up through frequent, repeated use with wheel cleaners and degreasers. If the bristles become flattened, wet the brush and allow it to air dry.

The naturally feathered boar’s hair bristles will not scratch, the boar’s hair (BHB) is durable yet very gentle on any surface. Use the Clean Wheel Brush on painted, alloy, chrome, plated, and anodised wheels. The Clean Wheel Lug Nut Brush is also a great small brush for interiors 

j) Uber Spoke Brush (Detailers Domain) has white Tampico fibre twisted in wire 3-1/2" inch diameter with a pointed end, and a plain sanded hardwood handle.

Wheel Surface Sealants

Apply a sealant after cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350.oF +) The melting point of an organic wax (180.oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+) Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and water solution. The newer nano technology coatings will withstand temperatures up to 500.^OF

WheelWax - safe for all wheels, painted, anodised, polished or clear coated. Just wipe it on, let it dry to a haze and wipe it off. For maximum shine, rinse the wheels with cool water and buff to a high shine.

Swissvax Autobahn Wheel Wax - this product was developed for German customers of fast motor cars with alloy or magnesium wheels. The product has been tested on German Autobahns on cars with top speeds of 185 MPH (300 KPM) in Switzerland during the winter. Switzerland has one of the harshest road climates in the world using salt and harsh winter chemicals, and on racetracks in Austria and Germany.

G|Techniq C5 Wheel Sealant – a one-component clear coating based on chemical nanotechnology that offers a transparent and optically neutral coating for smooth, non-absorbing surfaces. Sealed surfaces are easy to maintain, without the need for any special cleansing agents, and are resistant to fresh soiling of the surfaces.

Used on metals offers a long-life protection against corrosion and because of its long lasting adhesion to the base material surface, and is highly resistant to mechanical and chemical attack as well as offering exceptional UV protection. For use on stainless-steel, chrome, aluminium, brass, copper and already coated surfaces. Not intended for use on glass or on plastic materials.

Application – an airbrush or HVLP paint spray gun (5/16-inch (8mm) nozzle at 30 PSI (2 bars

) to provide a single, thin (3-10 µ) and uniform coverage for this type of coating

Maintenance- this coating requires no special maintenance and should last for around two years. Coating longevity will be improved if wheels are cleaned only with either normal car shampoo or citrus degreaser. Avoid acid wheel cleaners.

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.

Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Glass Cleaning Process

 Of the questions I get asked about vehicle detailing the one that is asked most often is on glass cleaning (followed closely by how to care for leather upholstery) BTW 15 to 20% of a car’s surface is glass. 

Looking at glass under a microscope you’ll see that its surface has many peaks and valleys to which water, minerals, and soap residue and environmental contaminates can cling to these pitted surfaces, all of which requires regular cleaning.

Water ‘spots’- there are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)

Stage I (Surface) Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

 a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline

b) Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

Ratings for Different Types of Windshields on the Mohs Scale Windshields are a crucial piece of safety equipment on aircraft, cars, buses and other vehicles. Aerodynamically designed, windshields typically consist of an inner cellulose layer covered by two layers of glass; one on the outside and one on the inside. Since shattered glass from windshields can cause serious injuries or fatalities when a collision occurs, it's important that the vehicle's windshield be strong.

Referring to the Mohs scale is a good way to discern the relative toughness of a windshield. There are two main types of windshields: Tempered glass windshields and Laminated safety glass windshields (more common). 
The ratings of these vary on the Mohs scale.

Laminated Safety Glass Windshields
In a laminated windshield, a layer of clear plastic (typically cellulose-based) is blanketed by two standard glass planes. This type of windshield is most common and scores between a 6 and 6.5 on the Mohs scale, making it harder than regular glass (5.5), but not as hard as emerald (7.5). Though this kind scratches somewhat easily, they're designed well. When the windshield breaks in a collision, the interior plastic layer holds the glass shards, protecting the driver and passenger from getting cut.

Tempered Glass Windshields
Are heat-treated to harden the glass surface (on the outside, not inside) and enhance scratch resistance, tempered glass windshields are harder than laminated varieties, rating a 7 on the Mohs scale. The tempering also has another effect; when the glass breaks, it's designed to shatter into tiny chunks instead of big jagged pieces. This decreases the likelihood of serious injuries.

Rock chips
These micro-chips are caused by road grit impacting the glass surface, they appear as ‘white spots’ when filled with a wax or polymer sealant. In a recent windshield damage study conducted by the Motor Industry Research Association (MIRA), it was found that; extreme temperatures and structural fatigue will cause existing windshield chips to spread quickly, requiring glass replacement.

Thermal shock occurs when a thermal gradient causes different parts of an object to expand by different amounts, this differential expansion and at some point this stress overcomes the strength of the material, causing a crack to form. If nothing stops this crack from propagating through the material, it will cause the object's structure to fail. This occurs if you wash a cold surface with warm / hot water or conversely a warm / hot surface with cold water Thermal shock can be prevented by reducing the thermal gradient seen by the object ( i.e. by changing its temperature less rapidly)

In cold weather conditions, windshields will develop a more concave shape. As a result, windshield chips and dings are more likely to spread in a horizontal fashion. Chips were likely to spread more than 80 percent of the time at temperatures of 14 degrees (-10° C). Those tested at 32 degrees were nearly 60 percent likely to crack. Warm weather conditions cause windshields chips to spread more vertically. The same study conducted suggested that the heat itself distorts the shape of the windshield glass, which can lead to cracking by itself.

However, it was also found that the cooling effect of the air conditioning unit is likely to set off a crack. Driving over a speed bump, pothole or other uneven terrain can cause a chip to crack. The force radiates through the car and puts additional pressure on the edges of the chip, which can quickly lead to a crack. Although it is not possible to suggest how long it will take for a chip to spread, the study suggests that stressors like weather changes and simple driving will eventually cause or lengthen a windshield crack.

What kind of damages can be repaired?
Many glass polishing products can’t actually remove etched spots, but will thoroughly clean and fill them (Kaolin clay) so they appear virtually invisible. However a windshield repair is a process that uses skill to repair stone damage on a windshield instead of replacing it altogether. Stone damage or stone "chips" up to the size of a quarter, if you can catch your fingernail in the scratch 0.4 Mil (10µ) deep, you should consult a professional auto glass company Best results are obtained when the damage is repaired right away, before contamination occurs from car washing, road grime, or inclement weather.

Once the surface has been washed and cleaned (detailers clay) any minor imperfections can be removed with an abrasive glass polish (CarPro CeriGlass, Autoglym Car Class Polish or Zaino Z-12 Clear-View Glass Polish) These products remove "light" scratches, acid water spots, bird and bug stains, including alkaline mineral deposits, and then smoothes out etched glass (See article “Polishing Glass”) 

 Windshield Haze or ‘Fog’ (Interior) 
The vinyl used on vehicle dashboards contain diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) plasticizers, these low molecular weight compounds maintain semi-rigid vinyl’s flexibility. The vinyl used in modern vehicle interiors vent (out-gassing) these are the plasticizers evaporating (more prevalent on newer vehicles or a dash with freshly applied vinyl dressing) Crack open vehicle windows when parked to allow the gasses to vent and do not use any vinyl protection product for fifteen days or so on a new vehicle. 

Ultra violet (UV-A) heat radiation will also cause the plasticizers to dry out, resulting in a chemical film that when combined with road oils, dirt and grease introduced via by the vehicles AC system or smoker's residue, which results in a stubborn haze or fog that forms a cohesive bond with the interior glass surfaces. 

For severe out gassing or the removal of stubborn grime; spray the glass surface (otherwise you are diluting the product strength) with 1:10 solution distilled water /Isopropyl alcohol and wipe with a clean cloth and the result is a crystal clear finish. You may need to repeat this process Ensure that all cabin fabrics (seats, carpets and mats) are thoroughly dry; otherwise their moisture evaporation will exacerbate the problem 

Glass Cleaning
Looking at glass under a microscope you’ll see that its surface has many peaks and valleys to which water, minerals, surfactants and car wash soap residue and environmental contaminates can cling to these pitted surfaces, all of which requires regular cleaning / removal. A dirty or distorted windshield and/or worn wiper blades are dangerous; 90% of your driving decisions are based on a clear, unobstructed view of the road, it's a critical safety concern that your car's wipers provide you with the cleanest windshield possible. 

Wiper blades should be checked for wear and replaced annually or when showing signs of wear. Dirty windscreens add to the danger when the sun is low. If you can't see, slow down accordingly, keeping an eye on the traffic behind, in case the following vehicle doesn't see you against the sun. As it makes driving safer allowing you to see the road ahead clearly, it enables the glass to defrost even quicker and removes the contaminants that contribute to the oily film on the glass, driving, especially on a dark and rainy night without being able to see through the windshield is to say the least, impairment. 

Ghost’ marks (from suction cups or wiper blades) - factory glass is installed with the help of strong suction cups to assist in its placement, they are lubricated with a special release agent compound, this helps the air suction applied to be broken. 

Unfortunately they often leave marks that are only visible in direct sunlight. These can usually be removed (least abrasive first) a chemical paint cleaner (P21S Paintwork Cleanse) detailer’s clay or a glass polish (Autoglym Car Class Polish or Zaino Z-12 Clear-View Glass Polish) agitation with a soft brush or a terry cloth towel helps to clean out the micro pores of the glass. 

If the above methodology fails to remove them use a diluted Cerium Oxide (CeO20) / distilled water solution Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive exterior glass cleaning a challenge. The film on the inside of your windows is caused by "out gassing" of the plastic and vinyl components of your interior. Ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather; there is also a potential danger of becoming asphyxiated without adequate ventilation. A newly detailed vehicles appearance would be ruined with soiled glass surfaces. All it takes to rectify is a little time, the correct method and cleaning products for crystal clear clean glass and plastic. 

The difference clean glass surfaces make to a detailed vehicle is night and day. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel, and glass cleaners will not remove this grit. Window cleaning has always presented a challenge for professional and enthusiast detailers, both demand perfection with streak-free, crystal-clear glass. But without using the correct methodology, the correct towel and the correct product required to produce perfectly clear glass surfaces every time 

Application Technique Water in whatever form of filtration / purification is a very good solvent; however on its own it will not dissolve grease, oil, road dirt or the plasticizers that outgas from vinyl. I usually advocate spraying car care products on to a towel and not directly onto the surface being detailed. The exception to this is when cleaning glass, rather than letting the cleaner soak into the towel, which results in insufficient product as a large majority is absorbed by the towel, better results will be achieved by soaking the dirt / grease residue on the glass surface. 

 Use a fine mist directly onto the glass surface, allow to dwell if it starts to dry, re-mist. Glass cleaning products contain a combination of ingredients including alcohol, ammonia, and detergents that will clean, but may also cause steaks. 

Depending on how fast or slow these ingredients evaporate, and their concentration, streaking problems may occur. The residue from these ingredients sometimes dries and evaporates on the glass before they are removed .As with all chemicals they need a certain amount of time to work, so allow area to soak for a few minutes, dry the glass with a clean, dry towel. For each area of glass use the clean side of a folded towel If there is condensation on the glass, use the vehicles heating and / or air conditioning to remove the moisture. Moist cold air and damp towels will exacerbate the moisture making it pretty much impossible to clean glass surfaces. 

Glass Cleaners 
There are dozens of different companies who make glass cleaner. Using alcohol and white vinegar together makes a quickly evaporating glass cleaner 8 oz. isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 8 oz. distilled water 0.25 oz. white vinegar All you need is the right glass cleaner, a glass towel, and the correct technique to get clear, practically invisible glass. For truly clean, streak-free glass, mist one side of the windshield with the glass cleaner of your choice; use the folded towel to wipe up and down the glass in long strokes. Then wipe side to side in long strokes. Flip the towel to the dry side and wipe the glass again in this method. Then move on to the other side of the windshield and on to the rest of the windows. You may not be able to clean it perfectly the first time. Repeat the above process and continue to wipe in long strokes. Always finish by wiping the glass with a dry side of the towel to eliminate streaks. 

Dr Joe dedicated Lint-Free 100% Cotton Surgical Towels, that have a tight cotton herringbone weave and a thread count of 170 per square inch, which is ideal for hard surfaces like glass as they have more ‘grip’ than micro fibre towels and helps to break up the surface debris. Fold the towel in half and then half again. Mist the glass surface with 1:1 ratio of distilled white vinegar and water solution in a spray bottle or Stoners Invisible Glass™ Trigger Spray Bottle. 

Use one towel for product application and one for removal / buffing. In hot, humid weather conditions spray and clean one window at a time Once the glass has been thoroughly cleaned, wipe it dry. Using two clean micro-fibre Waffle Weave towels soak one it in clean water and wring it almost dry. Wipe the glass and then using the other towel dry the glass completely. Once glass surfaces are clean and dry protect it with a sealant or wax. 

 Washing/ Care- reserve two Waffle Weave towels for glass cleaning .Wash these towel with distilled white vinegar (no detergent or fabric softeners) Drying Pattern Use a different drying pattern for interior / exterior glass surfaces (i.e. horizontal for interior and vertical for exterior) utilizing this technique you can easily determine the location of any streaking. A waffle weave towel is excellent when used for this purpose 

 Alternative Products – a)Optimum Glass Towel- that is also lint free and cleans glass without chemicals, making glass cleaner chemicals virtually obsolete, slightly dampen the towel with distilled water and the results will be crystal clear  
b)Ultra-51 Glass Towel- It has no nap, making it very similar to a huck towel but with the added benefit of micro fibre technology – Towels by Dr Joe Washing/ Care - rinse cloth thoroughly or wash prior to first use, always use cloth damp. Simply wet it with water and wring it out well. If you're getting water spots that stay on your surface; you have too much moisture in your cloth. Wash with liquid soap, but do not use fabric softeners, hand or machine wash cloths alone or with lint-free clothing. Bleaching is great for disinfecting the cloth (DO NOT use bleach on Microfiber). 

 Fabric softeners coat the cloth which can cause streaking and can also keep the patented fibres from being able to pull the dirt from your surfaces. Allow to air dry, without any dryer sheets Kitchen paper towels have lanolin in the fibres and will leave streaks. 

Newspaper are currently recycled, and most are formulated with adhesives, which class cleaners will break down leaving a tacky reside and paper ‘lint’ on the glass surface. The inks used and some chemicals can allow ink transfer to the glass. Newspaper inks are now water-based (unlike the older oil-based they will not shine glass) But they will stain your hand black (they dissolve with body heat) so be careful what surfaces you touch after handling newspaper (fabric, leather, plastic, etc.) as they may stain. 

Caution - Do not use products that contain ammonia, as it is very harmful to vinyl, plastic and rubber. It will cause plastic to ‘yellow’ and become clouded and it will also turn Mylar (plastic) window tint purple and may have a negative effect on the adhesive. Some people prefer to use plain water to clean their windows. While this is a very safe method, but water is sometimes not enough of a solvent to cut the protein base of stubborn grease / grime spots (use a 1:10 solution distilled water /Isopropyl alcohol) Side window felt Using a micro fibre towel and an old credit card, dampen the micro fibre with a 1:1 diluted solution of isopropyl alcohol/distilled water and wipe the felt 

 Drying / buffing glass Once the glass surface has been cleaned use a waffle weave micro fibre towel to final clean and polish the glass, when they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry as it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. To use ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using. 

 Non-Lint Surgical Glass Cleaning Towels Although the name suggests that these towels be used inside operating rooms, surgical huck towels are great for a lot of other detailing uses. Surgical huck towels are made from 100%cotton; they are lint free and have excellent absorption. For cleaning and drying windows, soft enough to polish and finish plated metals; these surgical towels are terrific for removing the cloudy film on windows. Use with a glass microfiber towel for perfect glass. Large sized (16 x 24") Towel care 

Always wash Lint-Free Surgical Towels and any glass cleaning micro fibre towels separately do not use fabric softeners but add a teaspoon per towel distilled white vinegar in place of a softener, the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. 

Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH 12, the opposite of acidic on the pH scale). 

External Glass 
Use detailer’s clay to remove road debris, brake dust, tar, etc. I would not advocate the use of synthetic steel or brass wool on glass surfaces; the reasons being are that no matter how fine of a grit (even #00000) you use you are actually micro scratching the surface of the glass allowing more spaces for dirt to build and settle where normal washing will not remove it, even though the glass looks super smooth to the naked eye. Grades of steel wool are similar to grit in finishing papers; the finest steel wool is grade #0000 steel wool or 1000 grit 

A better way to clean glass would be to use a Hi-Tech Body Sponge™ this innovative rubber polymer product safely and easily removes water spots, tree sap, rail dust, bugs and other bonded surface contaminants from the surface of automotive glass, mouldings and, may be used with any kind of lubricant and being an abrasive it will also produce a shine. With rubber side down, gently rub Body Sponge on glass using diluted car wash soap as a lubricant 

Glass Protection
 Once external glass surfaces have been cleaned apply an acrylic polymer as a rain repellent / protectant to help keep glass clear and cleaner for longer. Durable windshield and glass coating provides unsurpassed protection and water sheeting to provide clear vision Optimum Opti-Glass Coating forms a durable, cross-linking bond to glass and other silica-based surfaces, providing the utmost in chip, scratch and mar resistance. This coating creates an immense amount of surface tension on glass surfaces that water will simply bead up and roll off at speeds above 35 mph, rendering your windshield wipers virtually unnecessary at highway speeds Rain, sleet, ice and snow will not stick to treated exterior glass surfaces, providing you with a clearer view of the road ahead. 

Optimum Opti-Glass Coating lasts up to a year and is incredibly easy to apply for maximum protection apply the coating first and maintain the protective coating using the Opti-Glass Clean & Protect Directions: Apply within a surface temperature is between 60°-90° F (15°-30°C). Do not apply in direct sunlight. Thoroughly clean surface and use a product to remove bonded contaminants. 

 Polish glass if scratches are present. Before applying, wipe glass down with a 1:15 solution of isopropyl alcohol /distilled water. Spray Opti-Glass directly onto foam applicator pad and apply in an overlapping, circular motion. Allow Opti-Glass to cure for 2 minutes and remove excess with a clean, dry microfiber towel. Alternate Products Klasse All-In-One) Gtechniq G1 Clear Vision Smart Glass 

Relevant Articles

1.“Polishing Glass” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/137878-polishing-glass.html#post1464140

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

PPE is specialised clothing or equipment worn by an employee for protection against a hazard. General work clothes (e.g., uniforms, pants, shirts or blouses) not intended to function as protection against a hazard is not considered to be personal protective equipment.

 For your safety and the legally required protection of employees, you will need to have personal protective equipment available that will include a respirator fitting for you and your employees. At no time should you endanger yourself or others, take any unnecessary risks or infringe any laws. OSHA standards require that employers maintain or improve workplace conditions to protect employees.

Protection from Potential Health Hazards

Wear appropriate personal protective clothing to include: Boots, Chemical resistant gloves, Aprons, No loose fitting clothing or articles that may be caught in moving parts, Avoid belts with buckles that may damage painted surfaces, Avoid sharp objects that may damage leather or fabric upholstery

1. Warning: Always use a ground circuit fault indicator) (GFPI) when using any electrical device around water

2. Eye Protection: I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses or visor (prescription eyeglasses are not a substitute) when operating any machine polisher. OSHA requires employers to ensure the safety of all employees in the work environment. Eye and face protection must be provided whenever necessary to protect against chemical, environmental, radiological or mechanical irritants and hazards.

3. Hearing Protection; the constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss. Studies have shown that one-half of workers that wear ear defenders receive half or less of the protection they should. This is because their ear defenders are not worn correctly or continuously due to improper or uncomfortable fit. Ear plugs that are comfortable fit every time and are also easy to use; the result of this is that the user wears them and that they do the job.UK - http://www.ultimateear.com/industrial.php

4. Hand Protection; Gloves- with the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation and will provide protection against dermatitis and chemical burns. Gloves can provide protection, but they must be chosen with care, the proper selection matched to the hazard is critical as they offer a much needed protective barrier when handling cleaning chemicals such as wheel cleaners and 

multipurpose cleaners.

Nitrile gloves are made of synthetic latex. They contain no latex proteins and offer excellent resistance to punctures and tears. Nitrile gloves are three times more puncture resistant than rubber and can be used to offer superior resistance to many types of chemicals.

Chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation and can protect against dermatitis, chemical burns and corrosion. Nitrile gloves are three times more puncture resistant than latex rubber and can be used to offer superior resistance to many types of chemicals. Unlike other latex gloves, Nitrile gloves have low resistance to friction and are very easy to slide on –

Clove Chemical Resistance Chart - http://www.adenna.com/pdf/ChemicalsResistance.pdf

5. Respiratory Protection (N95): Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers

Crystalline silica (polishes and compounds) poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis and Isocyanate clear coat residue represent a hazard to your lungs and may cause respiratory distress. Use an NIOSH-approved half face respirator equipped with a combination filter cartridge should be worn while using them

Consult the current 3M Respiratory Selection Guide for additional information or call 1-800-243-4630 for 3M technical assistance.

6. Material Safety Data Sheets:  Use a ring binder or other filing system to ensure the appropriate MSDS is always available to identify hazardous substances

7. Work Hygienic Practices: Rinse gloves under running water before removing them

8. Chemical clean-up: small spillage: absorb spill with an inert absorbent material (e.g. dry sand or kitty litter), then place in a chemical waste container. If liquid has been spilt in large quantities clean up promptly by scoop or vacuum.

9. Protect yourself, work safely. As in all things, allow common sense to prevail and proceed with due caution

Health and Safety Executive (HSE) Control of substances hazardous to health (COSHH) is the UK law that requires employers to control substances that are hazardous to health - http://www.hse

GFCI and Extension Cord

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter and Extension cord selection is based on two main principles. First, the cable should be able to carry the current load imposed on it without overheating. It should be able to do this in the most extreme conditions of temperature it will encounter during its working life.

Second, it should offer sufficiently sound earthing to (a) limit the voltage to which people are exposed to a safe level and (b) allow the fault current to trip the fuse or MCB in a short time. To meet these requirements requires consideration of the circuit load current (AMPS) a reasonable voltage drop, cable thickness (G) and length (feet) and the over-current protection device

Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI - a residual current device is also known as a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) Junction Box with 6-Ft. cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough job site box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.

Prime Wire & Cable 50-Ft extension 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool

Eye Protection

I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses or visor (prescription eyeglasses are not a substitute) when operating any machine polisher. Safety glasses are usually made with shatter-resistant plastic lenses to protect the eye from flying debris. Although safety lenses may be constructed from a variety of materials of various impact resistances, certain standards suggest that they maintain a minimum 1-millimetre thickness at the thinnest point, regardless of material.

OSHA requires employers to ensure the safety of all employees in the work environment. Eye and face protection must be provided whenever necessary to protect against chemical, environmental, radiological or mechanical irritants and hazards.

The type of safety eye protection you should wear depends on the hazards in your workplace. If you are working in an area that has particles, flying objects, or dust, you must at least wear safety glasses with side protection (side shields). If you are working with chemicals, you should wear goggles. If you are working near hazardous grinding, welding or abrasive polishing; you must use special-purpose safety glasses, goggles, face shields, or helmets designed for that task.

The Wise Owl Program, sponsored by Prevent Blindness America, has recognised more than 86,000 people who avoided losing their sight in a workplace accident because they were wearing proper eye protection.

Chemical Burns to the Eye

In all cases of eye contact with chemicals:

· Immediately flush the eye with water or any other drinkable liquid. Hold the eye under a faucet or shower, or pour water into the eye using a clean container. Keep the eye open and as wide as possible while flushing. Continue flushing for at least 15 minutes.

· DO NOT use an eyecup.

· If a contact lens is in the eye, begin flushing over the lens immediately. This may wash away the lens.

· DO NOT bandage the eye.

· Seek immediate medical treatment after flushing.

Specks in the Eye

· DO NOT rub the eye

· Try to let tears wash the speck out or use an eyewash.

· Try lifting the upper eyelid outward and down over the lower lid.

· If the speck does not wash out, keep the eye closed, bandage it lightly, and see a doctor

Ear Protection

The constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss. There are mainly two types of earplugs for hearing protection:

1. Foam earplugs, mainly made of memory foam, which is compressed and put into the ear canal, where they expand to plug it.

2. Silicone earplugs, which are rolled into a ball and carefully moulded to fit over the external portion of the ear canal, providing a snug custom fit for the wearer.

Noise Levels dB (A)

What are the occupational exposure limits for workplace noise?

Occupational exposure limits (OELs) for noise are typically given as the maximum duration of exposure permitted for various noise levels.

Level of noise dB (A) Maximum daily exposure

85 8 hours

91 2 hours

95 1 hour

97 0.5 hour

           100 0.25 hour

What is the criterion level? The criterion level, often abbreviated as Lc, is the steady noise level permitted for a full eight-hour work shift. This is 90 dB (A) in most jurisdictions, but in some jurisdictions, it is 85 dB (A).

Hand Protection

Gloves provide a barrier protection; with the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and will provide protection against dermatitis and chemical burns. Gloves can provide protection, but they must be chosen with care, the proper selection matched to the hazard is critical as they offer a much needed protective barrier when handling cleaning chemicals such as wheel cleaners and multipurpose cleaners.

Chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and cam protects against dermatitis, chemical burns and corrosion. Nitrile gloves are three times more puncture resistant than latex rubber and can be used to offer superior resistance to many types of chemicals. Unlike other latex gloves, Nitrile gloves have low resistance to friction and are very easy to slide on.

Clove Chemical Resistance Chart - http://www.adenna.com/pdf/ChemicalsResistance.pdf

Nitrile gloves are made of synthetic latex. They contain no latex proteins and offer excellent resistance to punctures and tears. Nitrile gloves are three times more puncture resistant than rubber and can be used to offer superior resistance to many types of chemicals.

Nitrile gloves vary in softness and flexibility Nitrile and latex protective gloves both come in various degrees of thickness, powdered or non-powdered and sterile or non-sterile. Nitrile is favoured by many, primarily because so many people have latex allergies. Nitrile gloves are also more resistant to punctures, making this material suitable for many professions

1. Vinyl gloves have great strength, contain no protein or allergenic proteins, however, they do not offer the same tactile properties as latex or Nitrile

2. Latex gloves, due to their high level of elasticity, comfort and dexterity and fit the user hands very well

3. Latex gloves and vinyl gloves are generally very affordable. Nitrile gloves, polyurethane gloves and other synthetic gloves are usually more costly.

Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome (HAVS)

Hand-arm vibration syndrome causes symptoms in fingers, hands and arms caused by vibrating tools. It used to be called vibration white finger (Raynaud's phenomenon). The name was changed to HAVS as other symptoms may occur in addition to white fingers.

What causes hand-arm vibration syndrome?

It‘s caused by repeated and frequent use of hand-held vibrating tools. For example, power drills, chainsaws, pneumatic drills, etc. It may also be caused by holding or working with machinery that vibrates. It is not clear how vibration causes the condition. It is probably due to slight but repeated injury to the small nerves and blood vessels in the fingers. Over time these may gradually lose some of their function and cause symptoms. Possibly, up to 1 in 10 people who work regularly with vibrating tools may develop HAVS.

The following steps are thought to help prevent HAVS in workers who use vibrating tools:

· Hold tools as loosely as possible, and in varying positions.

· Do not use an excessively tight grip or to use a tool for longer than necessary.

· Ensure that tools are well maintained

· Use the correct counter-balance in oscillating polishers

· Use tools correctly and use the right tool for the job.

· Use ant vibration gloves.

· Take regular breaks of at least 10 minutes, short bursts of work are better than long periods without a break.

· Keep your hands warm.

A medicine called Nifedipine may be prescribed if symptoms of Raynaud's phenomenon are severe. It works by opening up (dilating) the small blood vessels. Some people take Nifedipine regularly, each day, to prevent symptoms. Some people take Nifedipine just during the winter, or just during cold weather spells.

Mechanics (Mechanix) Glove - heavy duty mechanical gloves use a special fabric, unlike leather it breathes offering comfort and non-slip in wet, double padding in the palm for extra protection and a layer of silicon fingers tips giving extra protection.

Anti Vibration (AV) Gloves - the range of gloves available are designed to exceed the rigorous requirements of the ISO Standard 10819 (ANSI S3.4-2002) for the absorption of vibration due to direct hand contact with vibrating equipment, machinery or hand held tools.

AV Glove Liner - can be worn alone or under standard work, gloves to protect against shock and impact, Akton® padding cushions the hand and spreads vibration energy away from the original point of contact, allows complete fingertip dexterity for improved control. Breathable cotton spandex body

Respiratory Protection

Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers (Crystalline silica poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis) and Isocyanate clear coat residue represent a hazard to your lungs and may cause respiratory distress. Use an NIOSH-approved half face respirator equipped with a combination filter cartridge should be worn while using them

Consult the current 3M Respiratory Selection Guide for additional information or call 1-800-243-4630 for 3M technical assistance.

Bibliography

1. American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH®) publications

2. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Regulations & Compliance Links

3. Handbook of Hearing and the Effects of Noise, K.D. Kryter

Relevant Articles

1. Health Hazards of Detailing - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/health-hazards-of-detailing.html