Textured Paint (Orange Peel)
Paint Thickness
Using
a medium abrasive polish and a rotary polisher will remove approximately 3µ
from the paint surface (typically 4 passes at 1500-1800 RPM) but there
are many variables such as the abrasive grade of the polish or compound and
speed and pressure used that may affect
the paint removed) These numbers should be checked with a paint thickness gauge
(PTG) There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will
compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the
imperfection.
A clear
coat thickness is approx. 50 - 75 µ a paint thickness reading of 100 µ < (Microns) is reasonably safe for polishing. 80-90 µ I wouldn't use anything stronger than 2000 < grit polish, 70-80 µ 2500 < grit polish and under 70
µ) use a glaze.
If
you have reservations about the amount of paint surface removed or the amount
of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness gauge (PTG) is
arbitrary
Note: 1 µ (micron) is 1/1000th
of a millimeter or 0.0393700787 Mil or 0.001 of an inch
·
200µ + can be expected on older cars that have been hand painted or a
re-painted vehicle
·
100 – 200µ - normal paint thickness
·
80 – 100 µ - thin paint
·
80 µ < - very thin paint
These numbers are offered as a guide only, as there are too many
variables to provide any more than an approximation.
Paint
thickness will often depend upon the OEM paint specification, which can vary by
vehicle assembly plant. It’s interesting to note that painters must now
demonstrate proficiency with an electronic paint thickness gauge in order to
become certified to perform paint refinish warranty work for General Motors
Corp. (GM) vehicles.
Kinetic (or dynamic) Friction
Kinetic friction
induced heat is an often misunderstood concept of polishing / compounding;
abrasives require friction to breakdown, not heat; heat is just a resultant of
friction between two surfaces.
Polishing a paint
surfaces transfer’s kinetic (or dynamic) friction induced heat to the paint
surface, thermoplastic polymers have both tensile strength and elongation
(elasticity) which allow the surface to flex, expand and contract in accordance
to surrounding temperatures, solvents, resins and other ingredients in polishes
will expand causing the paint film surface to expand.
As the metal
substrate expands the paint moves with it, due to its elasticity, thereby
becoming elongated (thinner) this is part of the cause of friction induced
‘burn’, you’re applying pressure and an abrasive to a less dense (‘thinner’)
paint surface.
Is paint film surface that
has a dimpled appearance that paint takes on due to an equipment/operator
caused defect?
Technically
traditional textured paint is in the
clear coat. It can however be in the base coat usually caused by spraying the
paint dry.
There
are several factors that contribute to textured paint – incorrect paint mixture (incorrect reducer
for the temperature during spraying or incorrect mixture of paint, hardener and
reducer) incorrect paint-gun pressure
and/or distance from panel, poor spray gun atomization, an operator not knowing
how to set-up the equipment for that particular type of paint, or even a partly
blocked paint-gun nozzle, improper pre-paint preparation and /or paint
application, or uneven drying of the clear coat.
It
should be eliminated after the final shooting of clear coat by the OEM wet
sanding the paint film surface, and polishing with a mildly abrasive polish and
a high-speed rotary polisher.
Note
that some degree of textured paint can
be found in most finishes, both OEM and repainted.
Textured
paint Removal
Check
the paint with a PTG to see how much paint there is available before attempting
repairs Clear coat that is too thin loses its ability to adhere effectively
(delaminating) to the underlying paint layer and will flake off.
A
vehicle with its original paint has a higher re-sale value than a repaint. Due
to the above; something else to consider is a ‘do nothing’ option and learn to
live with it.
It
can be removed by wet-sanding but this entails a substantial reduction in clear
coat thickness, which may eventually entail repainting
CarPro
Textured paint Removal Pads - you can now remove or
substantially reduce textured paint in
the top layer without sanding. While removing textured paint and deep defects you are also polishing the
paint rather than leaving sanding marks, which reduces the steps needed
afterwards.
These
pads have a very aggressive abrasive and are deceptive; they have twice the
rate of cut of typical wool pads. They don't dull the paint like sanding so it
may appear you aren't removing paint but you most certainly are.
They
are intended for use by professionals who are very familiar with film
thickness, compounding, polishing, and the dos and don’ts of paint correction.
Theses pads are designed for use with a rotary polisher, average removal is
approximately 5µ (0 .2 Mil) - 7.5µ (0. 3 Mil)
These
pads are available in two configurations: Denim (2000 Grit) is the more
aggressive and designed for the removal of severe texture from refinished
paints and Velvet (3000 Grit) is used for removing light textured paint from thin, factory-applied paint; both pads
utilizing CarPro Fixer as a lubrication / compound.
Use
very little pressure and check the paint surface temperature and clean paint
debris from pad surface often. Similar to ‘block sanding’ the pad / backing
plate are rigid enough that when used correctly it abrades the paint ridges
(high spots) faster than the valleys. Either pad will polish the paint as it
removes textured paint requiring only
one or two additional polishing steps to create level paint that reflects
accurately. These pads should only be used with proper knowledge of clear coat
thickness in conjunction with a paint thickness gauge. As with any aggressive
abrasion method be very cautious with factory OEM paint.
There
are two considerations; (a) how much clear coat (b) how much ultra violet
protection can be removed, they are not interchangeable. The following are the
maximum allowable clear coat reductions the major USA car manufacturers will
allow before the paint warranty becomes void; 0.3 Mil (7.5 µ (micron)
You
should initially try these on a test panel and get an idea of just how fast
they remove paint. Using little or no pressure (machine weight alone) start a
low 600-700 RPM and then progress to 1200 RPM, at this speed the kinetic heat
produced by these pads is high so it is wise to constantly check paint surface
temperature.
The
pad / backing plate combination is rigid and so acts in a similar way to 'block
sanding’, removing the high spots before the valleys, maintain the pad flat and
parallel to the surface; a spritz of distilled water can be used to reduce the
surface temperature, but beware of product spatter
I
hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the
‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you
understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you
desire.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated
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