Tree Resin / Sap
Sap is more of a liquid that is less viscous than honey.Sap is made of sugar and water carried in the xylem and phloem cells of the trees.#
Resin is a sticky solid form of secretion that is highly valued for their chemical properties and associated uses. Resin is a liquid found in the outer cells of the trees.
Resin [: the resin produced by most plants is a viscous liquid, composed mainly of volatile fluid terpenes, with lesser components of dissolved non-volatile solids which make resin thick and sticky. Some resins also contain a high proportion of resin acids. Some resins when soft are known as 'oleo- resins', and when containing benzoic acid or cinnamic acid they are called balsams]
Sap [: the fluid transported in xylem cells of a tree] it consists primarily of water, in addition to sugar, hormones, and mineral elements dissolved within it.
Appears like a dark brown/ rust red colored raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.
A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually an acidic resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a safe solvent (Stoner’s Tarminator®) or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work and then use detailer’s clay.
Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive
refinishing.
Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you.
Tree resin (sap), once it's removed, will sometimes leave a 'ghost' outline, try a chemical type paint cleaner or a finishing polish with a zero
abrasive foam pad
For tree sap that has hardened, carefully / lightly scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. The remaining sap can usually be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or Stoner’s Tarminator®) wet the area with the product by soaking a micro fibre towel (place 'dots' of detailer's clay on each corner of the towel) and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel.
Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply paint protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be leveled with a suitable polish and
then apply a paint protection
Various Removal Methods
• Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.
• 1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
• If it is sun hardened use a plastic razor blade to remove the top surface of the resin and then soak in IPA.
• Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant
• Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to affected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
Notes
1. Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon-based (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).
2. Avoid using a QD sprays to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated.
3. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be leveled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection.
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