TOGWT: Carpet Cleaning and Care

An extractor is used for the deep cleaning of carpets; it forces hot water and detergent deep into the fibres and then draws it out with a powerful vacuum.

The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive materials. Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried.

When using a vacuum or water extractor always allow the machine to do the work, there is absolutely no need to scrub with the nozzle, or use downward pressure as this will greatly restrict airflow / suction. Instead place the nozzle on to the carpet or upholstery so that it makes contact lightly, this will introduce vacuum deep into the fibres and bring the particulates and soil to the surface for easy pickup by the vacuum.

Dust - can soil carpets in various ways, it will discolour the fibres making them appear dull and grey, dust brought into the vehicle from outside often contains grit, which will abrade the fibres and cause wear marks, especially in the foot well close to the pedals. Using a vacuum with an agitator attachment regularly will avoid these problems

Spills and stains - whenever a spill occurs it is important to blot as much of the liquid us as possible using a dry clean cloth or tissue. Never rub the pile as this will cause distortion and possibly alter the appearance of the carpet. It is very important to do this immediately after the spill occur, failure to remove the spill quickly could lead to the stain becoming permanent and it may not be able to be removed at a later date, even with professional assistance.

Carpet shampoo - if incorrectly applied, can leave sticky soap residues in the fibres which can result in the soiling reappearing quite rapidly. The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture so it will not over wet the fibres, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive natural wool carpets.

Autoglym Interior Shampoo/Cleaner easily cleans through dirt and oils on hard to clean panels like door handles or seats and effectively removes stains from carpets without any fear of bleaching, leaving soapy residue, or lingering scent behind. The name suggests shampoo, but this product is an actual cleaner.

To refresh the colour - mix a 1:10 solution white vinegar and distilled water, soak a towel in the solution and gently rub but do not scrub the carpet surface

Normal cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a medium stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet cleaner (Scotchgard™ Fabric & Upholstery Cleaner) and let the foam remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.

Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a medium stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam, allow the solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor or high suction vacuum

After surfaces are clean and dried, use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to raise the fibres and apply a stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard or Scotchgard™ Protector) improves the fibres resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use.

Carpet Extractor - using an extractor that has powerful suction effortlessly removes dirt and odours, lifts stains and puts the colour back into a carpet’s pile, making it look clean and smell fresh

Washing your carpets regularly is just as important as vacuuming. That’s because it removes oily and embedded dirt that gets trapped in your carpet and is left behind by your vacuum cleaner--even if you vacuum daily. Carpets that aren’t washed become dull, flat and worn over time because this trapped dirt damages the fibres and flattens the pile. Washing helps prolong the life of carpets and keeps them looking at their best at all times.

Steam - this method is most effective but use caution by not using too much detergent or water, do not over-wet natural wool as always test the product on a small area to check for residue or a sticky feel. Do not use if a residue exists, or if in doubt about a product. Finally, do not use laundry detergents to clean as they often contain chemical brighteners.

Some stains can be removed, some cannot. Those that resist all efforts of removal are usually not stains at all. They are actually areas that have been dyed. Fruit drinks contain chemical dye. Coffee was once used to colour fabric and requires a professional, concentrated stain remover. Grease, tar and oil stains require strong degreasers to be completely removed from thick carpet and velour upholstery. Over the counter products do not have the chemical concentration necessary for this job.

The three steps to interior detailing are cleaning, vacuuming and protecting

1.Cleaning: Completely wipe away dirt/grime with damp cloth until clean, rinsing out clothe as required, allow to completely dry before use. Use a rubber bristled brush in a circular motion to raise the nap of the fabric once it is thoroughly dry; this will loosen the debris and bring it to the top of the carpets pile, enabling a vacuum to remove it

2. Vacuuming: Vacuum thoroughly, getting loose dirt is critical (Metropolitan Vac 'N Blo™) always begin your interior cleaning with a thorough vacuuming; it is much easier to vacuum loose dirt from doorjambs when the dirt is dry instead of muddy after washing the exterior.
Use the crevice tool for hard-to-reach areas (don't forget the instrument panel and stereo controls), the upholstery attachment (usually a soft round brush) for the seats, and the stiff-bristled brush on the carpet, to loosen deeply embedded dirt and lift matted carpet-pile

3. Protecting: Don't miss this very important step. Once your interior is clean, you should use a conditioning/protection product (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard, which includes UVR protection or Scotchgard™ Carpet Protector) to ensure protected surface will repel dirt and moisture, and again, keep your vehicle in its like-new condition.
Using the right detailing tools to apply and remove the cleaning and conditioning products will make the job easier and will give you professional results

Seat Removal

For a thorough interior cleaning, removal of the seats will allow access to hard to reach areas. It's relatively easy if you take your time and are careful. Front bucket seats are typically held down by four bolts on the ends of the runners at the base of the seat, two in the front and two in the back, these bolts are usually torque down hard (when replacing start, the bolt by hand, being very careful not to cross-thread them)

These are removed using a socket wrench. Sometimes the bolts are covered by a decorative plastic moulding, which is held in place by a screw or just pops off using a prying action with a slotted screwdriver. First, slide the seats to its rear-most position, exposing the front bolts, remove, then, sliding the seat to its forward position, exposing the rear bolts, remove.

When all four bolts have been removed, gently tilt the seat either forward or back to reveal any wires that are connected to the underside of the seat (for seat position controls, heaters, seat belt sensors, etc.). Carefully unplug these wires, and remove the seat from the vehicle, taking care not to scratch seat or paint surfaces as you lift out the seat. Cover the remaining wire harness with a plastic bag and aluminium foil; this will prevent water and cleaning solution from getting into the wiring harness.

Pre-test Spot Procedures

Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product, a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment.

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

When spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the surface.

Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.

Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's colour or texture.

a) Carpet and upholstery cleaning:

P21S Total Auto Wash is a Limonene (citrus) based cleaner and a good stain remover and is gentle on your carpet. Gently blot into the stain using a sponge; don’t frantically rub at the stain as this will only cause the stain to spread and may weaken the fibres. Rinse the sponge and blot with cool clean water, dry material thoroughly

A good place to start is to clean the carpet, floor mats and upholstery. This method of cleaning the carpets and upholstery first, will allow the most drying time between cleaning and the finishing of an interior detail.

Use a stiff brush to loosen any debris as a regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the fibres, when hot water and detergent is used with an extractor; this debris is loosened and removed with the water.

Most vehicle fabrics are comprised of nylon or olefin. Leather and wool (natural fibres) require more delicate care, and will be discussed later. Carpet and upholstery can be cleaned using three methods; hand cleaning, an orbital buffer with brush attachment or machine extraction. The hand cleaning method remains most popular due its low cost.

Realizing that carpet is a vehicle second largest surface area, your shoes may have dirt / grit on them, twisting and turning in one spot your embedding minute particles into the fibre, which in turn abrades the surface and wears it away. If this is the case, there is no easy-fix other than replacement. Heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster, as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension of the fibre. Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil.

Note- Use the hottest water available, it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water

It is very important to ensure that the carpet / upholstery is very thoroughly rinsed, as the cleaners will pull (wick) the dirt to the surface. The soap and oils will attract dirt and oily grime like a magnet (re-soiling) if they are not thoroughly rinsed away giving the appearance that they have not been cleaned. Once the carpet is cleaned and dried a final vacuuming will remove any light moisture and give the carpet a finished / detailed look

Turn your orbital polisher into an interior shampooer, for its ease of use and high quality results it produces when shampooing carpeting and upholstery. Scrubbing by hand with a brush takes time and effort, the Ultimate DA Polisher Shampoo Brush is designed to fit all most orbital polishers, the 5/16 shaft easily screws directly into your polisher. Heavy duty built construction for long lasting performance

1. To hand clean carpet and upholstery

A heated carpet extractor is going to work much better than a shop wet-vac. You should be able to find a place in your area that rents these machines by the day. Cleaning interiors by hand is a labour intensive and time-consuming process.

· Before vacuuming use a stiff brush to loosen any debris as a regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the fibres

· Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to raise the fibres

· Vacuum area very thoroughly (Metro Vac N' Blo®) to lift all the loose dirt from the carpet

· Remove any stains with a ‘spot’ remover (303™ Spot Remover & Cleaner)

· Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)

· Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S® Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

· After sufficient remain in place time agitate pre cleaner solution with an upholstery brush to ‘friction scrub’ surfaces

· Mist spray surfaces with hot water

· Brush the carpet to raise the nap and loosen ground in dirt

· Remove the excess moisture, using cotton terry towels to blot the moisture, repeat until towels are ‘clean’ or use a Wet/Dry vacuum (preferably a carpet extractor system) and allow carpets / mats to thoroughly dry before use

· Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard)

Note: Use the hottest water available it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets / mats

2. Using an orbital buffer (with a brush attachment)

· Before vacuuming use a stiff brush to loosen any debris as a regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the fibres

· Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to raise the fibres

· Remove any stains with 303™ Spot Remover & Cleaner

· Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover)

· Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ Hoover Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet) let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

· Agitate surfaces with a random orbital buffer (speed #4) and brush attachment, scrub carpet / fabric upholstery

· Mist spray surfaces with hot water

· Attach a terry-cloth bonnet and go over areas, changing the bonnets frequently

· Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the material to raise the fibres

· Remove the excess moisture, using a Wet/Dry vacuum or a carpet extractor in one direction only, do not scrub, allow carpets / mats to thoroughly dry before use

· Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard)

Note: Use the hottest water available it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets / mats

3. Using a Carpet Extractor

A carpet extractor is a machine that uses a wand to inject water/cleaning solution deep into carpet fibres and then, as the wand is pulled back, removes the moisture from the carpet along with soils and contaminants. Using an extractor that has powerful suction effortlessly removes dirt and odours, lifts stains and puts the colour back into a carpet’s pile, making it look clean and smell fresh

Carpets that aren’t washed become dull, flat and worn over time because this trapped dirt damages the fibres and flattens the pile. Washing helps prolong the life of carpets and keeps them looking at their best at all times.

Residual Moisture

Early carpet extractors put down considerable amounts of water/solution into the carpets, often as much as two gallons per minute. Unfortunately, the carpets could take a long time to dry, in some instances more than 48 hours. Because the drying time was so long, the development of mould, mildew, fungi, and other contaminants became a serious problem.

Low-Moisture Carpet Extractor

As defined by the Low Moisture Carpet Cleaning Association (LMCCA), this refers to any cleaning system that ensures carpets will dry within two hours or less at 65 percent relative humidity at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Note that this refers to any type of carpet cleaning system (shampoo, dry, bonnet, etc.). However, the most common carpet cleaning system used in cars, most and experts agree the most effective system overall in any type of setting is extraction.

A low-moisture carpet extractor will use a gallon of water or less per minute. This reduction in water use can be important to operators in drought-plagued areas of the country or where water conservation is a key consideration.

Pressure

Pressure levels can have a significant impact on cleaning performance and the most effective ways to clean different types of carpet, fabrics, and soiling situations.

Heat

Some carpet extractors use only cold water to clean carpets. Although this may work to an extent, it is not viewed as the most effective, expedient, and efficient way to clean carpets, upholstery, or other surfaces.

Heat is one of the four fundamental factors, along with agitation, time, and chemical required in cleaning, according to the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC). When carpets are cleaned, heat improves the effectiveness of the cleaning chemicals in loosening and dissolving soils, making them more extractable.

This may also mean less chemical is necessary, making the cleaning process environmentally preferable. The correct amount of heat along with the other fundamentals of cleaning will do more of the work, making the cleaning task easier for the operator.

An extraction system process is the choice of professional detailers due to its cost effectiveness, performance efficiency and time saving over conventional methods. Extractors work by using a cleaning solution dispensed from a tank that heats the solution to 200 oF+ and is sprayed at medium pressure (50 PSI +) and a high volume from the machine via a cleaning wand; it is then filtered and re-circulated.

The water is heated and pressurized, which produces a dry vapour. When the vapour leaves the nozzle it is then subjected to atmospheric pressure and expands (a phase change), vapour micro-molecules are able to penetrate the pores on any permeable surface. When the molecules come in contact with a surface they expand forcing any dirt, debris, and bacteria to the surface (steam vapour also kills bacteria) Dry vapour has a water content of about 5%, so the surface dries extremely quickly

Extraction also allows the ability to remove cleaning residues due to its high suction power (100-inch water gauge +). Rinsed fabrics look and smell cleaner and resist soiling better. I know ‘lesser’ machines may give the appearance of a clean interior, but in reality, the soil is being migrated the bottom of the carpet, this dampened soil will cause mould / mildew formation as the suction lift on lesser machines is pretty much non-existent. Mould uses enzymes to digest nutrients from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material and also down into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular pattern Dirt and moisture are essential to mildew propagation.

Pre-cleaner

a) Organic stain removal- quarter (1/4) cup Protein Stain Remover (topoftheline.com) / 1-cup 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover / one-gallon hot water let remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

b) Other stain removal- 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S® Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

Methodology

· Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the material to raise the fibres

· Vacuum area very thoroughly (Metro Vac N' Blo®) to lift all the loose dirt from the carpet Remove any stains with 303™ Spot Remover & Cleaner

· Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)

· Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S® Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react

· After sufficient remain in place time agitate pre cleaner solution with an upholstery brush to ‘scrub’ surfaces

· Use a carpet extractor to clean and remove liquid and dirt. (Vapour Clean Products T5 Extractor / Spotter®)

· Use a 16:1 solution clean distilled hot water / Hoover Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent or 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover

· Use a rubber bristle brush going over the material to raise the fibres

The next step would be to use its high-volume vacuum, in one direction only (do not scrub) to remove the excess moisture and grime, immediately recovering it.

· Allow carpets / mats to thoroughly dry before use

· Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™ High Tech Fabric Guard)

Notes:

1. Carpet cleaning is based upon methods recommended by the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning Institute (CUCI)

2. Use the hottest water available it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets / mats

3. Run a 2:1 solution distilled water / distilled white vinegar thru the extractor either weekly, or after every ten fresh fills. Vinegar, contains Acetic acid, an organic carboxylic that will help eliminate scale, mild mineral deposits etc. from clogging your extractor.

4. Rug Renew from top of the line can revive stained or dirty fabric’s, you can use its super-concentrated formula diluted 5:1 with Distilled water as a spot remover, or dilute 20:1 in your extractor. Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies

5. Folex Instant Carpet Spot Remover - removes spots and stains

6. Odour removal- adding 4 ounces Odor Terminator to each gallon of extractor solution

7. Clean interior glass after use to prevent spotting. (ValuGard Product Line)

8. Carpeted floor mats: Floor mats take a majority of the wear away from the interior carpet. However, this leaves floor mats with soiling as well as oily stains. Inspect for oily stains. Use a solvent-based spot remover to remove oily stains. Spot treat really bad stains

303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam

Pour a small amount of cleaner onto a terry towel and wiping toward the centre of the stain to remove the spot. Clean normal to heavy soiling as described above. Floor mats may get as wet as necessary to properly clean them.

Normal cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet cleaner (Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam) and let the foam remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.

Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor

The rubber backing and the ability to relocate them to a warm place (not direct sunlight) for quick drying aids their cleaning. After mats are clean and dried, brush them to raise the fibres and apply stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard) to repel grease, dirt and oil based stains and provide UV protection against fabric fading.

Embedded Sand

Use the back of a brush to 'beat' the carpet and bring the sand grains to the surface and then vacuum, repeat as necessary. The problem with scrubbing a carpet that has ingrained sand particles is that they are abrasive and may damage the fibres

Use caution- if using Oxy-Clean™ as it’s an oxygen bleach that is also a strong alkaline (pH 10) as it may discolour or leave a ‘bleach’ type stain if not thoroughly rinsed / removed as its active ingredient is hydrogen peroxide which is considered a corrosive.

Disclaimer-the guidelines for carpet care given in this section are of a general nature and are made in good faith. However, due to the condition, materials, age and other factors, undesired effects or damages might be caused when some of these recommended procedures are used on some automotive carpets/mats, so any procedure or technique you choose to apply is done at your own risk.

Removing Stains

Rust

Corrosion stains sometimes emulate from the seat guide rails-

· Remove as much of the rust stain as possible before applying a treatment.

· Apply a Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner P21S Total Auto Wash onto the stain so that the spot is thoroughly saturated.

· Sprinkle salt onto P21S Total Auto Wash

· Allow the salt and Limonene to react with the stain for 24 hours.

· Refresh the TAW to keep the spot damp.

· Blot the stain (do not rub, as this may damage the fibres).

· Thoroughly rinse the spot with clean water.

· Repeat as necessary.

Floor pan

Remove any salt crystals / rust flakes

· Apply POR-15® Marine Clean™

· And then two coats of rust inhibitor paint (POR-15®) or (Eastwoods Road Salt Neutralizer) a high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted metal surfaces; apply thin coats

· Allow each coat to thoroughly dry

Glycol Antifreeze

When antifreeze spills onto carpet, it will leave behind a stain and an unpleasant smell. Antifreeze often spills or leaks onto automotive carpet, but it can also find its way onto the carpet inside homes and garages. Once you notice the antifreeze stain, it needs to be removed as soon as possible, to prevent the stain from becoming permanent. If the antifreeze stain sits on the carpet for too long, you may need to replace it.

1. Soak up the excess antifreeze from the carpet with a terry cloth towel

2. Dilute the stain by saturating with clean water

3. Remove the excess water from the carpet with an extractor or use a terry cloth towel

4. Apply a surfactant detergent (P21S Total Auto Wash) cleaner to the carpet.

5. Use a 1:1 solution of distilled white vinegar and distilled water to neutralize

6. Sprinkle cornmeal or baking soda over the carpet and allow it to sit overnight. It will help absorb the remaining moisture and also control odour.

7. Vacuum the carpet to remove baking soda

Latex Paint

• Remove as much wet paint as you can by blotting with a clean terry cloth towel, work from the outside in to avoid spreading the stain.

• Sponge with cool water and blot again (still from the outside in) until you've removed as much paint as you can.

• Use a 1:1 solution of P21S Total Auto Wash and medium hot water

• Blot with solution, using a clean towel, again working from the outside in.

• You may have to repeat this process

• Allow to completely dry and then vacuum

Water Marks (Browning)

Is caused by wet cleaning fabric or carpets, heat causes a capillary action that brings soil (in the form of a brown stain, hence browning) Clean and extract as normal. Follow with a sprayed mist of a 'souring agent' to prevent browning, colour bleed and those awful 'water marks'. Extract with plain water (no detergent). Pro's Choice "Browning Treatment" (formerly known as Brown Out) is an excellent treatment for water stains on upholstered furniture, caused by wet cleaning, and treatment of brown out on upholstery or carpet due to over-wetting. Simply apply full strength to the problem area. Wait to dry and then evaluate.

Drying

Always thoroughly dry carpets to avoid mildew and/or mould formation. To speed the drying process, leave the doors or the sunroof open, but make sure you shut off the interior lights by placing something in the door jamb that keeps the buttons retracted, or disconnecting the battery. Use of a carpet extractor is better than heat as this may cause the mats or carpet to become stiff. If an extractor is not available, use cotton terry towels to pat dry

Protection

Scotchgard™ Protector -fluorocarbon chemicals (polymer latex) developed by 3M are mostly inert so by applying it to fabric they provide an effective protective treatment by surrounding each individual fibre with an invisible shield.

It can be safely used for the finest wool or nylon fabrics; Scotchgard™ Protector improves the fibres resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use

Current Information

To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. You should never stop learning, and your quest for information should be part of your everyday process. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I detailed my first vehicle at the age of fourteen forty plus years later I started to write detailing articles to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I started to contribute to various detailing forums answering questions posted by neophyte’s, enthusiasts and professionals alike. My mantra has always been Experience Unshared Knowledge Wasted.

About the author - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/about-author.html

This is not a product vendor’s catalogue, nor am I a vendor pretending to be an educator, as there are a lot of companies that are now sponsoring detailing forums, giving advice and preaching that only the product they sell or manufacture are suitable. In reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of educators, mere salesman. Those who have something to sell can be very persuasive, often using marketing pseudo-science (i.e. blurring the distinction between science and fiction) to make a great case while completely ignoring meaningful facts, like their product adds nothing of real value.

I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the product recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the box" and it suits my detailing goals. The products mentioned have been personally subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field testing, and I have found that they will perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal recommendation, using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

TOGWT

Thursday, 8 October 2015

Carpet Cleaning and Care

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