Thursday, 15 October 2015

Rotary polisher usage tips


Process over Product
A wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity. If you apply a product over a surface that is dirty or one that has surface imperfections a wax or sealant will not disguise it, only highlight them.

 
Makita 9227C

Surface Evaluation
Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork; examine the vehicles bodywork, a ‘bag-test will ascertain the need for detailer’s clay, and a 3M Sun Gun or a Brinkman light will help you find any evidence of surface blemishes i.e. swirl marks and scratches.

Paint renovation detailers that need to control the amount of paint being removed from a vehicle will realize considerable benefits from a paint thickness (PTG) meter. It can be used to identify areas of thin paint or determine the depth of paint damage, such as water spot etching. Detailers use an electronic PTG to determine the depth of paint to avoid over-polishing. With this powerful knowledge, you'll know what areas of the vehicle to avoid or where to tread gently when removing imperfections.

The most important first step in the process of paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; ascertain the severity of the surface blemishes with an inspection light and the paint thickness available.

The paintwork should be evaluated with a paint thickness gauge to see what thickness of clear coat remains before you decide how much paint renovation can be safely carried or wither paint preservation would be the appropriate option, before you proceed, measuring with a paint thickness gauge will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible



Always follow the rule of starting with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish and the least aggressive foam or wool pad (working smarter not harder) The most important first step in the process of paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; ascertain the severity of the surface blemishes with an inspection light and the paint thickness available.

Measuring with a paint thickness gauge will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible. Assess the correction level working through the range of polishes from the lightest abrasive upwards until the desired level of correction is reached. Selecting the correct pad / polish combination for the vehicles paint / defects can take just as long as the paint correction process

When removing defects from the paint surface, consider not only which polish / compound you'll be using, but how you'll be using it. You choice of machine speed, pad construction, pad size and applied pressure will all impact the abrasive abilities of the polishing liquid.
Decide on a one, two or three step polishing routine and select a suitable pad.

After testing a section to confirm this method, Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a process that will produce the best possible finish, once this is established repeat the process over the entire paint surface.

Select a ‘typical’ area (one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove) and starting with the least abrasive polish and / pad combination and then proceed until the defects are removed. This is the polish / pad combination you’ll need to use

Rotary or Random Orbital

There is a place for both a random orbital buffer and a high speed polisher in a detailer’s toolkit, once you are proficient with an orbital all that is required to ‘step-up' to the polisher is practice, practice and then more practice, which should be done on a scrap vehicle panel as opposed to your own or someone else’s vehicle

Sometimes a dual-action polisher just isn’t enough for really tough scratches and swirls. You need the cutting power of a rotary polisher to penetrate the clear coat and smooth over rough edges to restore your paint to its original flawless finish.

Rotary polishers are a powerful tool and should not be used by a novice detailer; these polishers are for experienced detailers or professionals. The purpose of circular polishers is to remove layers of paint or clear coat down to the lowest point of the scratch until it is completely level with the surrounding surface. An inexperienced user can easily produce new swirls and / or friction burn the paint by holding the polisher in one place too long. These polishers are for experienced detailers or professionals.

All it takes is practice, practice and more practice plus a steady hand to master the art of machine polishing.

Pros- used mainly by body repair / paint shops or professional or very experienced detailers due to its ability to both quickly and efficiently rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections; paint renovation / correction. It has the ability to produce the friction necessary to break-down diminishing abrasive polishes, it will also correct paint defects much faster than an orbital buffer and hence is the machine of choice for professionals.

Cons- due to the high speeds available it has the ability to friction burn paint if too high a speed is selected or the machine is held on one spot for too long or at paint surface edge

Dual-Action Polishers

The motor and drive unit on these polishers oscillate in an eccentric circular motion or a figure-eight motion.  Due to the random or semi-random motion of these machines, they are much safer to the paint because it's nearly impossible to generate enough heat to cause paint burns or wear through the paint.  In most cases, if too much pressure is applied the oscillating action on the polishing pad will stop and the energy will be transmitted back to the tool operator as excessive vibration.

Oscillating machines have a second benefit.  Because the tool head does not rotate in a direct circle, they will not create the dreaded buffer swirls or holograms in your paint finish like a rotary buffer can.  This safety feature makes these machines highly popular with car enthusiasts like the idea of machine polishing, but at the same time are concerned about burning or inflicting swirls into their car's paint finish.


Singular or Dual Controlled Component 

The definition of a dual (two) action as opposed to a singular (one) action polisher-
a)       Single action machine (constant circular orbit (RPM) is one that has only one controlled component of a backing plate / pad. Due to its singular clockwise motion and high torque motor (10 Amp) it is able to produce friction while the operator applies pressure, allowing these machines to do a lot of work quickly i.e. 10 % faster at accomplishing the desired results than a Dual action machine forced rotation machine

b)      Dual action machine (random elliptical orbit (OPM) is one that has two controlled components of the backing plate / pad; orbiting around a centre spindle, while the baking plate / pad freely spins on its own axis. The backing plate mounting is off-centre, as the drive rotates centrifugal force moves the backing plate in an elliptical motion, to balance this motion a counter weight is fitted to counteract machine vibration

c)       Forced Rotation Dual action machine has both a circular motion (RPM) and a direct drive orbital (OPM) motion with forced rotation, which means that the back plate rotates by a gear mechanism in a forced circular motion, as the back plate rotates it also oscillates in a random pattern. One action is the circular rotation and the second action is the random movement of the backing plate while it is rotating.

This type of motion is 50% faster at accomplishing the desired results than a Dual action machine. (What makes this type of movement ‘safe’ is the comparatively lower torque electric motor on these units, so that it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.

Rotary Polishers- a high-speed polishing machine, the high-end machines have a direct-drive with selectable electronic speed control that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions regardless of pressure applied.

·         Porter-Cable 7428 - reliable , 10-amp motor,  variable speed 0- 3,000  RPM, 9 Lbs weight
·         Metabo PE12-175 – ergonomically sound , on / off switch, feathering variable speed 700 – 2200  RPM, 10-amp motor, 6 Lbs weight
·         Makita 9227C –a reliable workhorse, ‘soft start’ trigger switch and variable speed 600-3000  RPM
 10-amp motor, 6 Lbs weight
·         DeWalt DW849– a reliable machine, 8 Lbs weight, 1000 – 3000  RPM,8-amp motor

Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced detailers to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a Velcro baking plate, foam or wool pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using their high (revolution) speed and friction (heat) to enable compounds to abrade the paint film surface that require more power /speed than a random orbital buffer can provide.

Warning: Always use ground fault protection interruption (GFPI) when using any electrical device around water

1.       ALWAYS stay focused on the job while using a rotary polisher.
2.       Nearly every rotary on the US market today uses a 5/8 - inch / 11pi arbour spindle for backing plates. (non-US M14) I would recommend getting a hook and loop (Velcro™) backing plate and a 5.5-inch pad to start with as they are more easily controlled.
3.       Masking the vehicle (Masking tape and Masking paper) pre-prep as if it were being ready for painting saves allot of cleanup time.
4.       A rotary will usually ‘sling’, especially at the higher speeds used with compounds. Priming and using the correct amount of product on the pad will also help minimize ‘sling’ and keep product usage to a minimum.
5.       Learn to steer the machine (not fight it) a lighter more relaxed grip will help to master the process
6.       Practice (steering) control of the rotary polisher, on different panels, different orientations (i.e. flat –hood roof and trunk, vertical - doors and fenders) as differing techniques of machine movement must be adopted.
7.       Clean your pads before you use them, or start out with a new pad; use a soft toothbrush for foam, and a spur for wool. As a general rule, the more aggressive the polish, the more often you'll need to clean out your pads. I clean out my pad after every panel when compounding.
8.       Oxidized paint and polish reside accumulates on the pad surface and will negatively impact polish results
9.        Clean (or replace) you pads frequently – a clean or fresh pad will restore the intended abrasive ability, were as a saturated foam pads abrasive ability will decrease (note dried or caked on polish will increase risk of surface scratches) clean often with a soft fairly stiff brush or pad spur (Duospur).

It is very important that you keep your working pad clean; as you go over the surface the removed polish and oxidation is being absorbed, which will become large abrasive fragments and will interfere with the cutting ability of the diminishing abrasives as the old polish debris will not breakdown a will affect the desired surface and may also be the cause of surface hazing.
10.   Practice centring the pad on the rotary; spin it at a low speed to ensure it is properly centred. Higher  RPM speeds can give the illusion that it is centred as the centrifugal forces push the foam out slightly making it appear more centralized
11.   Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car
12.   The work is approximately distributed, 60% product abrasives, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation.
13.   Diminishing abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface marring, holograms or worse. When a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring.
14.   Conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently they will cause surface marring; this is due to the size of the abrasive and its cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it becomes very fine and will burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it
15.   Ensure a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad and the surface. Swirls are usually caused by using an aggressive polish without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used too much polish or it may have dried. To remove, spritz the pad with distilled water (un-primed pads can cause marring) do not add further polish) and re-polish using the polish left on the pad.
16.   Holograms - A pattern of small scratches left in a finished paint surface by the pad or sander during the sanding compounding and/or polishing operation; And can be caused by not allowing a diminishing polish to fully break-down i.e. insufficient work time, the product should become somewhat transparent (i.e. looks like thin cover of Vaseline) A finishing foam pad and polish at 1000 RPM should remove them (or better yet use a random orbital polisher to remove them)
17.   Dry buffing
·         Using too little polish (and therefore too little surface lubrication)
·         Working a product for too  long
·         Using an overly aggressive pad
·         RPM speed too high
·         Pad angle (keep the foam pads flat) etc.
18.   Some professionals prefer to polish the surface first in a side-to-side motion and then in an up-and-down motion. I was taught (many years ago) to polish in a firgure-8 movement and it's now second nature to me. Side-to-side and up-and-down motions seem awkward to me now. Try both motions and stick with the method that is comfortable for you.
19.   Edge (spin off) a light sensitive approach is essential, using only the weight of the machine, on vertical panels just enough pressure to maintain contact with the surface (without applied pressure) tilt the contact edge of the pad a few degrees so that only the leading edge of the pad is in contact with the paint surface.

Make sure the leading edge (right hand side) of the pad is rolling off the panel so that would mean the right side of the pad is rotating off the panel. If you have the trailing edge (left side) of the buffer on the edge it will tend to strongly force the machine out of your hands and burn the edge almost instantly.
A smaller pad surface contact area will increase friction heat so adjust machine speed accordingly As far as the edging goes; normally you aren't going to find excess marring and scratching over the edges. So if you machine in steps (and you definitely should be) save the edges for you last stage of polishing. This way you’re using a least aggressive product and pad with less pressure.  
20.   Knowing when a polish is fully broken down comes with experience but a good yard stick is when the polish has gone clear and is very easy to wipe off. Holograms or micro marring are again imparted due to polish that hasn’t been properly broken down or too high speeds. Following the advice above or below should cure these.
21.   Intermediate polishing horizontally, final polishing vertically, so if there are buffer trails, they will be able to tell which process created them.
22.   Buffer hop’ is when the rotary jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD) This can also be caused by a bogged down pad – clean / spur / replace pads often.
23.   For the neophyte user I would suggest starting out by using a smaller pad, 6.5 – inch I have even found 4- inch pads to be very useful for polishing small tight spaces and smaller panels.
24.   Speed – With a rotary, as you move away from the centre the pad is moving faster to complete a revolution as it is covering a greater distance towards the edge of the pad, and therefore producing for friction, the higher the RPM the friction increases along with the abrasive power. Reducing the size of the pad reduces the faster moving area, reducing these factors, so the speed needs to be raised to make up for this.
You can see this in action if you drop the pad size from 6inch to 4inch, but keep the speed the same you'll always see a drop in cut, where before you may have been getting perfect correction it'll drop off. Up the speed and the previous results return.
High RPM i.e. >1700 will cause high surface temperatures (should be limited to 1000F / 300 C)
25.   Temperature - > 115.0F / 45.0 C spot temperature will damage clear coat to the point that it requires repainting.
26.   A rotary requires no more pressure than that required to ‘hold’ it on the paint surface
27.   Always tape pinstripes; it doesn't take much to wipe them right off the paint, or thin them out
28.   Inspect your work under full sun (or use a 3M Sun Gun®) Holograms, fine marring hooks, etc. are very difficult to see under man made light. There's nothing more frustrating than having to strip off your LSP and re-do.
29.   Remove all polish residue and oils before applying your LSP. This is a general rule of thumb for best results across all product lines, and you will notice an overall improvement in the clarity, gloss, and overall 'look' of your finish.
30.   If you're new to rotary polishing start off by only using finishing pads and do not exceed 1500  RPM < faster is not better and it may cause you problems. Let the rotary do the work, you'll be surprised at what you can correct with a finishing pad and a mildly abrasive polish.
31.   When you shut down the machine never let the pad stop on the surface. Bring the machine to the closest edge of the panel and slowly let it roll off with an angle facing inward to the panel, this will help prevent marring.
32.   One of the biggest problems when using a rotary is product sling. However when using highly lubricated polishes sling is a sign that you’ve used too much polish or you have turned the speed up to too fast, too soon. No matter how much you try and avoid it you’re still going to see it. Cover areas you don’t want covered in product and mask off trim with blue painter’s tape if necessary and cover windshields or other vehicle parts with towels. Be careful around mouldings, antennas (aerial’s to us Brits ) and other trim pieces
33.   Do not to put the chemical on the pad as the product will sling. The rotary should be in constant motion, if you're putting the chemical on the pad, then that means you are starting from a standstill. That also means that the rotary isn't spinning when it touches the paint, rather you are accelerating up to speed while already on the paint. Another reason you want to put the chemical on the paint, is that the chemical is acting as a lubricant between the pad and the paint.
34.   Do not remove compound or polish grit / dust with a dry towel; as this will cause surface marring. Use a damp Micro fibre towel with minimum downward pressure and a no-rinse type product (Optimum No Rinse) that contains surfactants to encapsulate the debris
35.   Moisten the pad with distilled water as it stops the pad absorbing to much product and provides a longer ‘working’ time.
36.   A smaller pad on the PC has more cutting power than a smaller pad on the rotary An 8- inch pad on the rotary will have more cut than a 6- inch

Test Panel Area

Before you use a pad / polish combination on your paint remember that diagnosis is the key; not guesswork as differing density (hardness) of paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat

The key to the polishing process is to know how the paint will react with each pad / polish combination you consider using. You must know your product and what its capabilities are before using it. This is why a ‘test’ spot is so important.  The factors that affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of material
Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required.

Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle. Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.

There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary

Machine Polisher Practice

Obtain a hood or trunk lid from a body shop or a salvage yard, try to get a darker colour as this will allow you to see scratch removal easier, place the panel on a pair of saw-horses and wrap the tops with carpet.

Working on this panel will help you safely understand how a rotary works with different pad and compounds and polishes. Using differing speeds and pressures you’ll learn how to polish both flat surfaces and edges. You’ll also learn how to level deep scratches, what a rotary will and will not repair i.e. when wet-sanding becomes an option. That is how you learn the basics, without damaging a customer's vehicle.

Experience gained like this will teach you how your polish/pad combination ‘feels’ as it goes through the various stages; i.e. cutting, to polishing stage and finishing stages, where the polish lubrication has dried up, this is where you stop, wipe off the polished area, inspect the paint surface and either clean the pad, apply more polish or change it for a clean fresh one.

Watching videos, reading articles will only take you so far, hands-on experience will provide the key to rotary polishing. Most detailing processes are as much, if not more about technique than products used

Trailing and Leading Edge

Looking at a pad that is on the paint surface; the trailing edge is the left side (between 7 and 5 o’clock) and the leading edge is the right side (between 11 and 1 o’clock)

A light sensitive approach is essential, using only the weight of the machine, on vertical panels just enough pressure to maintain contact with the surface (without applied pressure) use a lower speed 1000 – 1200 RPM and keep the pad moving. Tilt the contact edge of the pad a few degrees so that only the leading edge of the pad is in contact with the paint surface. Make sure the leading edge (right hand side) of the pad on a rotary polisher is rolling off the panel so that would mean the right side of the pad is rotating off the panel.

If you have the trailing edge (left side) of the buffer on the edge it will tend to strongly force the machine out of your hands and burn the edge almost instantly.

Painter’s Tape (Masking Tape):

When to use masking tape;
1.       To avoid discolouring the trim with synthetic polishes
2.       Avoid soiling the pad when going over black trim. The dirt from the rubber gets pulled into the pad.
3.       Avoid polish residue built up along the seams of the trim.
4.       Tape edges of paint as to not polish too far since paint is usually thinner on the edges.
5.       Also, tape paint seams to avoid residue in the jams.
6.       Use masking tape to protect from ‘burning’ trim (rubber, vinyl or metal); around windows, badges, light surrounds etc, can also be used to mask panel edges to avoid thinning the paint surface
Use one hand to hold the roll taut and to guide the piece as your press it into place with your other hand. Scotch® 3M Painter's Tapes are the most versatile in the Scotch® masking tape line. The low adhesion levels make them suitable for use on both coated and non-coated surfaces and are specially designed for safe use on delicate or smooth surfaces such as glass and painted metal, even on freshly painted surfaces.
These tapes are also UV and sunlight resistant, making them ideal for use on glass surfaces, without leaving any sticky residue. Tape sizes available 0.75 to 2-inch

3M Scotch® Performance Masking Tape Green-  highly conformable, provides the best adhesive transfer resistance, hugs curves, contours and provides outstanding paint lines. Goes on quickly and easily, sticks at a touch and stays put. This tape has excellent conformability, Transfer resistance, and is resistant to bleed through, also has better UV resistance than traditional masking tapes.

3M's Scotch® Safe-Release TM Blue Painters' Masking Tape, this tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.

Tape residue removaluse a safe solvent that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents) 3M™ Adhesive and Wax Remover, that simply emulsifies and dissolves the residue. It is important not to leave a solvent based chemical on the paint finish longer than is necessary. Simply apply to the affected area, allow sufficient dwell time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of "dwell time" between applications.

Speed
Using a rotary polisher at 1500 RPM and a 6-inch pad equates to approximately 2,355 feet per minute at the outside edge.

Using a Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 RPM- commence by spreading the product and then start polishing by setting the speed to 600 RPM, then adjust to 900 RPM culminating at 1200 RPM then descend to 900 RPM and finish at 600 RPM; linear speed should be 2 – 3 inch per second (IPS) 1200 RPM is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600 RPM) you will remove these and any other minor defects 

Applied Pressure
The pad needs to have an even distribution of pressure applied to it; depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with, increase pressure as necessary. Just remember that more pressure equals more abrasive ability, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary.

The required pressure applied to obtain optimum results to adequately compress the pad (50%) and obtain uniform abrasion is usually in the range of 10 – 15 lbs. (a random orbital buffer will stall at approximately 20 pounds of applied force) To compress a 6-inch pad 50% requires you increase the total force by the ratio of its surface areas      Ratio = [Ï€ (radius2)] / [Ï€ (radius2)] = 2.25 as much force, almost 34 pounds). With the smaller pad you're applying the same force, at a constant speed but over a smaller, more concentrated area, which will induce friction and greater abrasion abilities to the polish, both these abilities require a certain amount of caution as it’s possible to abrasion burn the paint.

Priming Pads

If you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place a pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to control and will produce hazing. This is due to most of the pad being "dry". Polishes and compounds appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ some things to note about pad priming: the cutting ability is increased, a better finish is obtained, it reduces any product ‘flashing’ problems, it produces a more even finish and the polishing machine is  less likely to hop. Use a very slightly distilled water dampened pad, not too wet (otherwise the polish will clump); then spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, apply some pressure to the surface and scrape any excess product from the pad

Do not use a quick detailer (QD) as a pad primer medium as most are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily adaptable to a spray formula. To be efficient they need to be emulsified to work as a spray, to facilitate this they need to use an emulsion of silicone oils and water. The wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives; silicon-based products can also have a negative effect on the surface / polish lubrication oils used causing surface smearing.

As a polish or a compound uses either oil, wax or a polymer as a lubricant the water content of a quick detailer (80 – 90%) is not miscible and therefore acts as a buffer between the pad and the polish negatively affecting the abrasive abilities of both diminishing and non-diminishing abrasives. 

Pad Seasoning

To season a primed pad, spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, and then spread that polish onto the pad by hand until it becomes (80%) saturated.  To apply to the paint surface; lightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing.

Quick Release Adaptor

The 3M Quick Release Adaptor for double sided buffing pads allows you to change pads on your rotary polisher in an instant with an improved connection mechanism. This heavy duty adaptor has a 5/8 inch thread to fit a rotary/ circular polisher. Easy pad changes and durable construction guarantee worry-free buffing with double sided pads by 3M and The Edge foam pads.

The adaptor makes it even easier to place a pad onto the adapter than past quick connector designs. With the sliding ring, you can easily attach and release a pad in seconds. An improved locking system provides the most secure connection between the pad and polisher so you can polish with confidence.

Polish / Compound Application

Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the foam pad with the (Orbital Polisher) machine off. This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing.

Most polishes are formulated by emulsifying a powdered abrasive in a carrier system (oil / solvent) the right amount of pressure / friction heat is vital to allow the polish / compound abrasives to level the paint surface and remove surface scratches / marring

Bi directional polishing - if you are polishing in a Left – Right pattern with the most abrasive foam pad / polish or compound combination then polish in a Top – Bottom pattern with the lesser abrasive foam pad / polish combination, once all your lines are opposite then you know you have completely covered the area.

Paint Removed by Polishing

Using a medium abrasive polish and a rotary polisher will remove approximately 0. 1 Mil (3µ Microns) from the paint surface (typically 4 passes at 1500-1800 RPM) but there are many variables such as polish/compound and speed / pressure used that may affect the paint removed)
There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection. If you have reservations about the amount of paint surface removed or the amount of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness gauge (PTG) is arbitrary

To remove a scratch you need to level the paint to the lowest point of the scratch. A random orbital polisher requires more pressure to utilize an abrasive than a circular polisher and its orbital action is a less efficient motion for removing a scratch from a paint surface; due partly to its indirect application of pressure; using a medium abrasive polish it usually takes 8-10 steps. A rotary polisher requires less pressure and its circular motion is a more directly applied force will remove more paint for each polishing step, which is usually 2-3 to remove surface defects. 

The dual action of a random orbital motion will require more applied pressure to work the compound into the scratch as opposed to the singular action motion of a rotary spinning with less applied pressure; and for these reasons a random orbital polisher removes more paint than a rotary circular polisher to remove the same surface defects

Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is the most efficient process for paint defect removal a polish or compound is applied by the sanding block with a constant pressure applied to maintain a flat and even surface contact. Because of its linear process you abrade the paint surface until the defects are removed.

There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection. If you have reservations about the amount of paint surface removed or the amount of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness gauge (PTG) is arbitrary

Wipe-Down Process

Anhydrous Isopropyl alcohol [Molecular formula C3H7OH: Proper Name: Isopropanolind] contains approx. 99% isopropyl alcohol, is a colourless liquid with a pleasant odour, and is highly flammable.
Wiping the finish with a Micro fibre cloth you may feel that the swirls have been removed, only to have them reappear when applying the final wax or sealant. After polishing a section, mist and wipe to fully remove residues and reveal the true paint finish.

a)       Polymer sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a paint surface if there are any oils present and it will affect durability.

b)      Silicone will cause surface smearing and will affect both bonding and durability
Wipe-down after polishing or compounding allows you to inspect the surface to determine if the surface is defect free or if further work is required. When polishing or compounding to remove fine swirls or holograms, it's easy for residues to settle in the swirls, hiding the true paint finish. The effectiveness of this process is dependent upon a few factors; strength of product used, surface temp of paint, pressure applied and number of passes will all affect the outcome.

The wipe down process should be carried out both before to ensure a surface that is free of any debris and after to ensure that defects have been removed as opposed to masked by any lubrication oils or fillers left behind after the polishing process. The wipe-down process may need to be repeated to ensure a perfectly ‘clean’, debris free surface

Removing surface oils - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) primarily encapsulates the oils, but once the alcohol evaporates the oils may resettle on the surface.  Use a 10:1 ratio of P21S Total Auto Wash (pH controlled detergent, which means a pH 10<) and 1:1 Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water or a lesser dilution as required

Methodology - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) solution with distilled water, if used undiluted it flash dries (evaporates) rapidly, which lessens surface inspection time and will also redeposit the oils you're trying to remove. alcohol and water emulsify any oils, enabling them to be removed
 Fill a fine misting spray bottle with a 8:1 ratio of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water solution spray the paint surface, leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate before wiping the paint surface with a clean, dry 100% micro fibre cotton towel, if it flashes too quickly (hot surface  or environment)  use  further dilution

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s)  have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection  be applied immediately.

Application methodology - saturate a soft clean 100% micro fibre cotton detail towel. Lightly rub area to be cleaned, wipe off and repeat if necessary. Finally wipe dry with a clean micro fibre towel. 

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s)  have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection  be applied immediately.

Power cable extension

Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI (Ground Fault Indicator) Junction Box with 6-Ft. Cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.

Prime Wire & Cable 50-Ft extension 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool

Power cord length (with 5%) voltage drop calc - http://www.lightshow.cc/explorer/Calculators/Power_/power_.html

Cable Gauge
·         16 Gauge up to 100 feet long will adequately handle loads up to 10 amps.
·         14 Gauge between 0 and 50 feet long will adequately handle loads between 10 and 15 amps.
·         12 Gauge if the electrical load is between 10 and 15 amps and the length of the cord is 50 to 100 feet

1.       Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI (Ground Fault Indicator) - Junction Box with 6-Ft. Cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.

2.       Prime Wire & Cable extension - 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool Co

Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator - http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm

Current Information

To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. You should never stop learning, and your quest for information should be part of your everyday process. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I detailed my first vehicle at the age of fourteen (1958) forty plus years later I started to write detailing articles to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I started to contribute to various detailing forums answering questions posted by neophyte’s, enthusiasts and professionals alike. 

                   My mantra has always been Experience Unshared Knowledge Wasted.

About the author - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/about-author.html

This is not a product vendor’s catalogue, nor am I a vendor pretending to be an educator, as there are a lot of companies that are now sponsoring detailing forums, giving advice and preaching that only the product they sell or manufacture are suitable. In reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of educators, mere salesman. Those who have something to sell can be very persuasive, often using marketing pseudo-science (i.e. blurring the distinction between science and fiction) to make a great case while completely ignoring meaningful facts, like their product adds nothing of real value.

I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the product recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the tin" and it suits my detailing goals. The products mentioned have been personally subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field testing, and using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

It has been my experience that they will perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal recommendation, as this testing is carried out without sponsorship I have no intention of publishing any test results. Using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions are the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated


Copyright © 2002 - 2015 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved




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