Process
over Product
A wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a
clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of
a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity.
If you apply a product over a surface that is dirty or one that has surface
imperfections a wax or sealant will not disguise it, only highlight them.
Makita 9227C
Surface
Evaluation
Diagnosis
is the key; not guesswork; examine the vehicles bodywork, a ‘bag-test will ascertain the
need for detailer’s clay, and a 3M Sun Gun or a Brinkman light will help you
find any evidence of surface blemishes i.e. swirl marks and scratches.
Paint renovation detailers that need to control the amount of
paint being removed from a vehicle will realize considerable benefits from a
paint thickness (PTG) meter. It can be used to identify areas of thin paint or
determine the depth of paint damage, such as water spot etching. Detailers use
an electronic PTG to determine the depth of paint to avoid over-polishing. With
this powerful knowledge, you'll know what areas of the vehicle to avoid or
where to tread gently when removing imperfections.
The most important first step in the process of paint surface
detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft)
or single stage paint, surface condition; ascertain the severity of the surface
blemishes with an inspection light and the paint thickness available.
The paintwork should be evaluated with a paint thickness gauge
to see what thickness of clear coat remains before you decide how much paint
renovation can be safely carried or wither paint preservation would be the
appropriate option, before you proceed, measuring with a paint thickness gauge
will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or
renovation level required or indeed possible
Always follow the rule of starting with the least abrasive
combination, i.e. a machine polish and the least aggressive foam or wool pad
(working smarter not harder) The most important first step in the process of
paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat
(hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; ascertain the severity
of the surface blemishes with an inspection light and the paint thickness
available.
Measuring with a paint thickness gauge will dictate the choice
and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level
required or indeed possible. Assess the correction level working through the
range of polishes from the lightest abrasive upwards until the desired level of
correction is reached. Selecting the correct pad / polish combination for the
vehicles paint / defects can take just as long as the paint correction process
When removing defects from the paint surface, consider not only
which polish / compound you'll be using, but how you'll be using it. You choice
of machine speed, pad construction, pad size and applied pressure will all
impact the abrasive abilities of the polishing liquid.
Decide on a one, two or three step polishing routine and select
a suitable pad.
After testing a section to confirm this method, Select an area
of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal
working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a
process that will produce the best possible finish, once this is established
repeat the process over the entire paint surface.
Select a ‘typical’ area (one that represents the type of defects
that you want to remove) and starting with the least abrasive polish and / pad
combination and then proceed until the defects are removed. This is the polish
/ pad combination you’ll need to use
Rotary
or Random Orbital
There is a place for both a random orbital buffer and a high
speed polisher in a detailer’s toolkit, once you are proficient with an orbital
all that is required to ‘step-up' to the polisher is practice, practice and
then more practice, which should be done on a scrap vehicle panel as opposed to
your own or someone else’s vehicle
Sometimes a dual-action polisher just isn’t enough for really
tough scratches and swirls. You need the cutting power of a rotary polisher to
penetrate the clear coat and smooth over rough edges to restore your paint to
its original flawless finish.
Rotary polishers are a powerful tool and should not be used by a
novice detailer; these polishers are for experienced detailers or
professionals. The purpose of circular polishers is to remove layers of paint
or clear coat down to the lowest point of the scratch until it is completely
level with the surrounding surface. An inexperienced user can easily produce
new swirls and / or friction burn the paint by holding the polisher in one place
too long. These polishers are for experienced detailers or professionals.
All it takes is practice, practice and more practice plus a
steady hand to master the art of machine polishing.
Pros-
used mainly by body repair / paint shops or professional or very experienced
detailers due to its ability to both quickly and efficiently rectify more
serious paint film surface imperfections; paint renovation / correction. It has
the ability to produce the friction necessary to break-down diminishing
abrasive polishes, it will also correct paint defects much faster than an
orbital buffer and hence is the machine of choice for professionals.
Cons-
due to the high speeds available it has the ability to friction burn paint if
too high a speed is selected or the machine is held on one spot for too long or
at paint surface edge
Dual-Action
Polishers
The motor and drive unit on these polishers oscillate in an
eccentric circular motion or a figure-eight motion. Due to the random or semi-random motion of
these machines, they are much safer to the paint because it's nearly impossible
to generate enough heat to cause paint burns or wear through the paint. In most cases, if too much pressure is
applied the oscillating action on the polishing pad will stop and the energy
will be transmitted back to the tool operator as excessive vibration.
Oscillating machines have a second benefit. Because the tool head does not rotate in a
direct circle, they will not create the dreaded buffer swirls or holograms in
your paint finish like a rotary buffer can.
This safety feature makes these machines highly popular with car
enthusiasts like the idea of machine polishing, but at the same time are
concerned about burning or inflicting swirls into their car's paint finish.
Singular
or Dual Controlled Component
The
definition of a dual (two) action as opposed to a singular (one) action
polisher-
a) Single action machine
(constant circular orbit (RPM) is one that has only one controlled component of
a backing plate / pad. Due to its singular clockwise motion and high torque
motor (10 Amp) it is able to produce friction while the operator applies
pressure, allowing these machines to do a lot of work quickly i.e. 10 % faster at accomplishing the desired results
than a Dual action machine forced rotation machine
b)
Dual
action machine
(random elliptical orbit (OPM) is one that has two
controlled components of the backing plate / pad; orbiting around a centre
spindle, while the baking plate / pad freely spins on its own axis. The backing
plate mounting is off-centre, as the drive rotates centrifugal force moves the
backing plate in an elliptical motion, to balance this motion a counter weight
is fitted to counteract machine vibration
c)
Forced Rotation Dual action machine has both a
circular motion (RPM) and a direct drive orbital (OPM) motion with forced
rotation, which means that the back plate rotates by a gear mechanism in a
forced circular motion, as the back plate rotates it also oscillates in a
random pattern. One action is the circular rotation and the second action is
the random movement of the backing plate while it is rotating.
This type of motion is 50% faster at accomplishing the desired
results than a Dual action machine. (What makes this type of movement ‘safe’ is
the comparatively lower torque electric motor on these units, so that it's
virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at
one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the
oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish.
Rotary
Polishers- a high-speed polishing machine, the
high-end machines have a direct-drive with selectable electronic speed control
that maintains a constant speed under varying loads conditions regardless of
pressure applied.
·
Porter-Cable 7428 - reliable , 10-amp motor, variable speed 0- 3,000 RPM, 9 Lbs weight
·
Metabo PE12-175 – ergonomically sound , on / off switch,
feathering variable speed 700 – 2200 RPM,
10-amp motor, 6 Lbs weight
·
Makita 9227C –a reliable workhorse, ‘soft start’ trigger switch and
variable speed 600-3000 RPM
10-amp motor, 6 Lbs weight
·
DeWalt DW849– a reliable machine, 8 Lbs weight, 1000 – 3000 RPM,8-amp motor
Used mainly by body repair / paint shops or very experienced
detailers to rectify more serious paint film surface imperfections using a
Velcro baking plate, foam or wool pads of varying coarseness and an abrasive
compound or polish to remove swirl marks, scratches and paint defects, using
their high (revolution) speed and friction (heat) to enable compounds to abrade
the paint film surface that require more power /speed than a random orbital
buffer can provide.
Warning: Always use ground fault protection interruption (GFPI) when
using any electrical device around water
1.
ALWAYS stay focused on the
job while using a rotary polisher.
2.
Nearly every rotary on the US market today uses a 5/8 - inch /
11pi arbour spindle for backing plates. (non-US M14) I would recommend getting
a hook and loop (Velcro™) backing plate and a 5.5-inch pad to start with as
they are more easily controlled.
3.
Masking the vehicle (Masking tape and Masking paper) pre-prep as
if it were being ready for painting saves allot of cleanup time.
4.
A rotary will usually ‘sling’, especially at the higher speeds
used with compounds. Priming and using the correct amount of product on the pad
will also help minimize ‘sling’ and keep product usage to a minimum.
5.
Learn to steer the machine (not fight it) a lighter more relaxed
grip will help to master the process
6.
Practice (steering) control of the rotary polisher, on different
panels, different orientations (i.e. flat
–hood roof and trunk, vertical -
doors and fenders) as differing techniques of machine movement must be adopted.
7.
Clean your pads before you use them, or start out with a new
pad; use a soft toothbrush for foam, and a spur for wool. As a general rule,
the more aggressive the polish, the more often you'll need to clean out your
pads. I clean out my pad after every panel when compounding.
8.
Oxidized paint and polish reside accumulates on the pad surface
and will negatively impact polish results
9.
Clean (or replace) you
pads frequently – a clean or fresh pad will restore the intended abrasive
ability, were as a saturated foam pads abrasive ability will decrease (note
dried or caked on polish will increase risk of surface scratches) clean often
with a soft fairly stiff brush or pad spur (Duospur).
It is very important
that you keep your working pad clean; as you go over the surface the removed
polish and oxidation is being absorbed, which will become large abrasive
fragments and will interfere with the cutting ability of the diminishing
abrasives as the old polish debris will not breakdown a will affect the desired
surface and may also be the cause of surface hazing.
10.
Practice centring the pad on the rotary; spin it at a low speed
to ensure it is properly centred. Higher RPM speeds can give the illusion that it is
centred as the centrifugal forces push the foam out slightly making it appear
more centralized
11.
Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car
12. The work is
approximately distributed, 60% product abrasives, 30% foam composition and 10%
pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation.
13.
Diminishing
abrasives- you need to allow the abrasives to break down (become
progressively smaller) to create a great finish or you may impart surface
marring, holograms or worse. When a polish "flashes" from a liquid
paste to a light semi-dry haze; its colour changes from the polish colour to
almost transparent; the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal.
It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it
too far you (dry polishing) will re-introduce surface marring.
14.
Conversely if you don’t work diminishing abrasives sufficiently
they will cause surface marring; this is due to the size of the abrasive and its
cutting ability, once an abrasive has broken down it becomes very fine and will
burnish the surface as opposed to cutting it
15.
Ensure a ‘wet’ polishing film is always present between your pad
and the surface. Swirls are usually caused by using an aggressive polish
without breaking down the diminishing abrasives properly, or you may have used
too much polish or it may have dried. To remove, spritz the pad with distilled
water (un-primed pads can cause marring) do not add further polish) and
re-polish using the polish left on the pad.
16.
Holograms - A pattern of small scratches left in a finished
paint surface by the pad or sander during the sanding compounding and/or
polishing operation; And can be caused by not allowing a diminishing polish to
fully break-down i.e. insufficient work time, the product should become
somewhat transparent (i.e. looks like thin cover of Vaseline) A finishing foam
pad and polish at 1000 RPM should remove them (or better yet use a random
orbital polisher to remove them)
17.
Dry buffing
·
Using too little polish (and therefore too little surface
lubrication)
·
Working a product for too long
·
Using an overly aggressive pad
·
RPM speed too high
·
Pad angle (keep the foam pads flat) etc.
18.
Some professionals prefer to polish the surface first in a
side-to-side motion and then in an up-and-down motion. I was taught (many years
ago) to polish in a firgure-8 movement and it's now second nature to me.
Side-to-side and up-and-down motions seem awkward to me now. Try both motions
and stick with the method that is comfortable for you.
19.
Edge (spin off) – a light sensitive
approach is essential, using only the weight of the machine, on vertical panels
just enough pressure to maintain contact with the surface (without applied
pressure) tilt the contact edge of the pad a few degrees so that only the
leading edge of the pad is in contact with the paint surface.
Make sure the leading
edge (right hand side) of the pad is rolling off the panel so that would mean
the right side of the pad is rotating off the panel. If you have the trailing
edge (left side) of the buffer on the edge it will tend to strongly force the
machine out of your hands and burn the edge almost instantly.
A smaller pad surface
contact area will increase friction heat so adjust machine speed accordingly As
far as the edging goes; normally you aren't going to find excess marring and
scratching over the edges. So if you machine in steps (and you definitely
should be) save the edges for you last stage of polishing. This way you’re
using a least aggressive product and pad with less pressure.
20.
Knowing when a polish is fully broken down comes with experience
but a good yard stick is when the polish has gone clear and is very easy to
wipe off. Holograms or micro marring are again imparted due to polish that
hasn’t been properly broken down or too high speeds. Following the advice above
or below should cure these.
21.
Intermediate polishing horizontally, final polishing vertically,
so if there are buffer trails, they will be able to tell which process created
them.
22.
‘Buffer hop’ is when the rotary
jumps across the paints surface usually due to insufficient polish/lubrication
and as the foam pad grips the paint it jumps. Try spreading the polish more
evenly across the pad, add more polish, distilled water or quick detailer (QD) This
can also be caused by a bogged down pad – clean / spur / replace pads often.
23.
For the neophyte user I would suggest starting out by using a
smaller pad, 6.5 – inch I have even found 4- inch pads to be very useful for
polishing small tight spaces and smaller panels.
24.
Speed – With a rotary, as
you move away from the centre the pad is moving faster to complete a revolution
as it is covering a greater distance towards the edge of the pad, and therefore
producing for friction, the higher the RPM the friction increases along with
the abrasive power. Reducing the size of the pad reduces the faster moving
area, reducing these factors, so the speed needs to be raised to make up for
this.
You can see this in
action if you drop the pad size from 6inch to 4inch, but keep the speed the
same you'll always see a drop in cut, where before you may have been getting
perfect correction it'll drop off. Up the speed and the previous results
return.
High RPM i.e.
>1700 will cause high surface temperatures (should be limited to 1000F / 300
C)
25.
Temperature - > 115.0F / 45.0 C spot
temperature will damage clear coat to the point that it requires repainting.
26.
A rotary requires no more pressure than that required to ‘hold’
it on the paint surface
27.
Always tape pinstripes; it doesn't take much to wipe them right
off the paint, or thin them out
28.
Inspect your work under full sun (or use a 3M Sun Gun®)
Holograms, fine marring hooks, etc. are very difficult to see under man made
light. There's nothing more frustrating than having to strip off your LSP and
re-do.
29.
Remove all polish residue and oils before applying your LSP.
This is a general rule of thumb for best results across all product lines, and
you will notice an overall improvement in the clarity, gloss, and overall
'look' of your finish.
30.
If you're new to rotary polishing start off by only using
finishing pads and do not exceed 1500 RPM < faster is not better and it may cause
you problems. Let the rotary do the work, you'll be surprised at what you
can correct with a finishing pad and a mildly abrasive polish.
31.
When you shut down the machine never let the pad stop on the
surface. Bring the machine to the closest edge of the panel and slowly let it
roll off with an angle facing inward to the panel, this will help prevent
marring.
32.
One of the biggest problems when using a rotary is product
sling. However when using highly lubricated polishes sling is a sign that
you’ve used too much polish or you have turned the speed up to too fast, too
soon. No matter how much you try and avoid it you’re still going to see it. Cover
areas you don’t want covered in product and mask off trim with blue painter’s
tape if necessary and cover windshields or other vehicle parts with towels. Be
careful around mouldings, antennas (aerial’s to us Brits ) and other trim
pieces
33.
Do not to put the chemical on the pad as the product will sling.
The rotary should be in constant motion, if you're putting the chemical on the
pad, then that means you are starting from a standstill. That also means that
the rotary isn't spinning when it touches the paint, rather you are
accelerating up to speed while already on the paint. Another reason you want to
put the chemical on the paint, is that the chemical is acting as a lubricant
between the pad and the paint.
34.
Do not remove compound or polish grit / dust with a dry towel;
as this will cause surface marring. Use a damp Micro fibre towel with minimum
downward pressure and a no-rinse type product (Optimum No Rinse) that contains
surfactants to encapsulate the debris
35.
Moisten the pad with distilled water as it stops the pad
absorbing to much product and provides a longer ‘working’ time.
36.
A smaller pad on the PC has more cutting power than a smaller
pad on the rotary An 8- inch pad on the rotary will have more cut than a 6-
inch
Test
Panel Area
Before you use a pad / polish combination on your paint remember
that diagnosis is the key; not guesswork as differing density (hardness) of
paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure
the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an
aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat
The key to the polishing process is to know how the paint will
react with each pad / polish combination you consider using. You must know your
product and what its capabilities are before using it. This is why a ‘test’
spot is so important. The factors that
affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad
actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of
surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of
material
Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of
defects that you want to remove and the finish level required.
Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s
tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot;
this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best
possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle. Pay
attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your
progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint
surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.
There may be
some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive
polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed
revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any
more clear coat than is necessary
Machine
Polisher Practice
Obtain a hood or trunk lid from a body shop or a salvage yard,
try to get a darker colour as this will allow you to see scratch removal
easier, place the panel on a pair of saw-horses and wrap the tops with carpet.
Working on this panel will help you safely understand how a rotary
works with different pad and compounds and polishes. Using differing speeds and
pressures you’ll learn how to polish both flat surfaces and edges. You’ll also
learn how to level deep scratches, what a rotary will and will not repair i.e.
when wet-sanding becomes an option. That is how you learn the basics, without
damaging a customer's vehicle.
Experience gained like this will teach you how your polish/pad
combination ‘feels’ as it goes through the various stages; i.e. cutting, to
polishing stage and finishing stages, where the polish lubrication has dried
up, this is where you stop, wipe off the polished area, inspect the paint
surface and either clean the pad, apply more polish or change it for a clean
fresh one.
Watching videos, reading articles will only take you so far,
hands-on experience will provide the key to rotary polishing. Most detailing
processes are as much, if not more about technique than products used
Trailing
and Leading Edge
Looking at a pad that is on the paint surface; the trailing edge
is the left side (between 7 and 5 o’clock) and the leading edge is the right
side (between 11 and 1 o’clock)
A light sensitive approach is essential, using only the weight
of the machine, on vertical panels just enough pressure to maintain contact
with the surface (without applied pressure) use a lower speed 1000 – 1200 RPM
and keep the pad moving. Tilt the contact edge of the pad a few degrees so that
only the leading edge of the pad is in contact with the paint surface. Make
sure the leading edge (right hand side) of the pad on a rotary polisher is
rolling off the panel so that would mean the right side of the pad is rotating
off the panel.
If you have the trailing edge (left side) of the buffer on the
edge it will tend to strongly force the machine out of your hands and burn the
edge almost instantly.
Painter’s Tape (Masking Tape):
When to
use masking tape;
1.
To avoid discolouring the trim with synthetic polishes
2.
Avoid soiling the pad when going over black trim. The dirt from
the rubber gets pulled into the pad.
3.
Avoid polish residue built up along the seams of the trim.
4.
Tape edges of paint as to not polish too far since paint is
usually thinner on the edges.
5.
Also, tape paint seams to avoid residue in the jams.
6.
Use masking tape to protect from ‘burning’ trim (rubber, vinyl or metal); around windows, badges,
light surrounds etc, can also be used to mask panel edges to avoid thinning the
paint surface
Use one hand to hold the roll taut and to guide the piece as
your press it into place with your other hand. Scotch® 3M Painter's Tapes are
the most versatile in the Scotch® masking tape line. The low adhesion levels
make them suitable for use on both coated and non-coated surfaces and are
specially designed for safe use on delicate or smooth surfaces such as glass
and painted metal, even on freshly painted surfaces.
These tapes are also UV and sunlight resistant, making them
ideal for use on glass surfaces, without leaving any sticky residue. Tape sizes
available 0.75 to 2-inch
3M Scotch® Performance Masking Tape Green- highly conformable, provides the best adhesive
transfer resistance, hugs curves, contours and provides outstanding paint
lines. Goes on quickly and easily, sticks at a touch and stays put. This tape
has excellent conformability, Transfer resistance, and is resistant to bleed
through, also has better UV resistance than traditional masking tapes.
3M's Scotch® Safe-Release TM Blue Painters' Masking
Tape, this tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without
adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to
direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing
allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.
Tape residue removal – use a safe solvent that does not contain any harmful components
(heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents) 3M™ Adhesive and Wax
Remover, that simply
emulsifies and dissolves the residue. It is important not to leave a solvent
based chemical on the paint finish longer than is necessary. Simply apply to
the affected area, allow sufficient dwell time, and carefully wipe off, you may
have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of "dwell time"
between applications.
Speed
Using a rotary polisher at 1500 RPM and a 6-inch pad equates to
approximately 2,355 feet per minute at the outside edge.
Using a
Sliding Scale 600-900-1200 RPM- commence by spreading the product and then start polishing by
setting the speed to 600 RPM, then adjust to 900 RPM culminating at 1200 RPM
then descend to 900 RPM and finish at 600 RPM; linear speed should be 2 – 3
inch per second (IPS) 1200 RPM is where most of the paint surface defects will
be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by
descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600 RPM) you will remove these and any
other minor defects
Applied
Pressure
The pad needs to have an even distribution of pressure applied
to it; depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with,
increase pressure as necessary. Just remember that more pressure equals more
abrasive ability, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the
same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to
complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results
move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary.
The required pressure applied to obtain optimum results to
adequately compress the pad (50%) and obtain uniform abrasion is usually in the
range of 10 – 15 lbs. (a random orbital buffer will stall at approximately 20
pounds of applied force) To compress a 6-inch pad 50% requires you increase the
total force by the ratio of its surface areas Ratio =
[Ï€ (radius2)] / [Ï€ (radius2)] = 2.25 as much force, almost 34 pounds). With the smaller pad you're
applying the same force, at a constant speed but over a smaller, more
concentrated area, which will induce friction and greater abrasion abilities to
the polish, both these abilities require a certain amount of caution as it’s
possible to abrasion burn the paint.
Priming
Pads
If you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place a
pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to
control and will produce hazing. This is due to most of the pad being
"dry". Polishes and compounds appear to work better when the foam pad
is ‘primed’ some things to note about pad priming: the cutting ability is
increased, a better finish is obtained, it reduces any product ‘flashing’
problems, it produces a more even finish and the polishing machine is less likely to hop. Use a very slightly
distilled water dampened pad, not too wet (otherwise the polish will clump);
then spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed
into the foam, apply some pressure to the surface and scrape any excess product
from the pad
Do not use a quick detailer (QD) as a pad primer medium as most
are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily
adaptable to a spray formula. To be efficient they need to be emulsified to
work as a spray, to facilitate this they need to use an emulsion of silicone
oils and water. The wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the
diminishing abrasives; silicon-based products can also have a negative effect
on the surface / polish lubrication oils used causing surface smearing.
As a polish or a compound uses either oil, wax or a polymer as a
lubricant the water content of a quick detailer (80 – 90%) is not miscible and
therefore acts as a buffer between the pad and the polish negatively affecting
the abrasive abilities of both diminishing and non-diminishing abrasives.
Pad
Seasoning
To season a primed pad, spread the polish / compound over the
pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, and then spread that polish
onto the pad by hand until it becomes (80%) saturated. To apply to the paint surface; lightly raise
the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After
polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with
product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this
point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position.
Every time you put a fresh pad on your machine you should prime and then season
it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing.
Quick
Release Adaptor
The 3M Quick Release Adaptor for double sided buffing pads
allows you to change pads on your rotary polisher in an instant with an
improved connection mechanism. This heavy duty adaptor has a 5/8 inch thread to
fit a rotary/ circular polisher. Easy pad changes and durable construction
guarantee worry-free buffing with double sided pads by 3M and The Edge foam
pads.
The adaptor makes it even easier to place a pad onto the adapter
than past quick connector designs. With the sliding ring, you can easily attach
and release a pad in seconds. An improved locking system provides the most
secure connection between the pad and polisher so you can polish with
confidence.
Polish
/ Compound Application
Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the
polish using the foam pad with the (Orbital Polisher) machine off. This coats
the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or
hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the
machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any
portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing.
Most polishes are formulated by emulsifying a powdered abrasive
in a carrier system (oil / solvent) the right amount of pressure / friction
heat is vital to allow the polish / compound abrasives to level the paint
surface and remove surface scratches / marring
Bi
directional polishing - if you are polishing in a Left – Right pattern with the most
abrasive foam pad / polish or compound combination then polish in a Top –
Bottom pattern with the lesser abrasive foam pad / polish combination, once all
your lines are opposite then you know you have completely covered the area.
Paint
Removed by Polishing
Using a medium abrasive polish and a rotary polisher will remove
approximately 0. 1 Mil (3µ Microns) from the paint surface (typically 4 passes
at 1500-1800 RPM) but there are many variables such as polish/compound and
speed / pressure used that may affect the paint removed)
There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a
scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the
imperfection. If you have reservations about the amount of paint surface
removed or the amount of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness
gauge (PTG) is arbitrary
To remove a scratch you need to level the paint to the lowest
point of the scratch. A random orbital polisher requires more pressure to
utilize an abrasive than a circular polisher and its orbital action is a less
efficient motion for removing a scratch from a paint surface; due partly to its
indirect application of pressure; using a medium abrasive polish it usually
takes 8-10 steps. A rotary polisher requires less pressure and its circular
motion is a more directly applied force will remove more paint for each
polishing step, which is usually 2-3 to remove surface defects.
The dual action
of a random orbital motion will require more applied pressure to work the
compound into the scratch as opposed to the singular action motion of a rotary
spinning with less applied pressure; and for these reasons a random orbital
polisher removes more paint than a rotary circular polisher to remove the same
surface defects
Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is the
most efficient process for paint defect removal a polish or compound is applied
by the sanding block with a constant pressure applied to maintain a flat and
even surface contact. Because of its linear process you abrade the paint
surface until the defects are removed.
There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a
scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the
imperfection. If you have reservations about the amount of paint surface
removed or the amount of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness
gauge (PTG) is arbitrary
Wipe-Down
Process
Anhydrous
Isopropyl alcohol [Molecular formula
C3H7OH: Proper Name: Isopropanolind] contains
approx. 99% isopropyl alcohol, is a colourless liquid with a pleasant odour,
and is highly flammable.
Wiping the finish with a Micro fibre cloth you may feel that the
swirls have been removed, only to have them reappear when applying the final
wax or sealant. After polishing a section, mist and wipe to fully remove
residues and reveal the true paint finish.
a)
Polymer sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a
paint surface if there are any oils present and it will affect durability.
b)
Silicone will cause surface smearing and will affect both
bonding and durability
Wipe-down after polishing or compounding allows you to inspect
the surface to determine if the surface is defect free or if further work is
required. When polishing or compounding to remove fine swirls or holograms,
it's easy for residues to settle in the swirls, hiding the true paint finish.
The effectiveness of this process is dependent upon a few factors; strength of
product used, surface temp of paint, pressure applied and number of passes will
all affect the outcome.
The wipe down process should be carried out both before to ensure a surface that is free of any debris and after to ensure that defects have been
removed as opposed to masked by any lubrication oils or fillers left behind
after the polishing process. The wipe-down process may need to be repeated to
ensure a perfectly ‘clean’, debris free surface
Removing surface oils - Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) primarily encapsulates the oils, but
once the alcohol evaporates the oils may resettle on the surface. Use a 10:1 ratio of P21S Total Auto Wash (pH
controlled detergent, which means a pH 10<) and 1:1 Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
/ distilled water or a lesser dilution as required
Methodology - Isopropyl alcohol
(IPA) solution with distilled water, if used undiluted it flash dries
(evaporates) rapidly, which lessens surface inspection time and will also
redeposit the oils you're trying to remove. alcohol and water emulsify any
oils, enabling them to be removed
Fill a fine misting spray
bottle with a 8:1 ratio of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water solution
spray the paint surface, leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate before
wiping the paint surface with a clean, dry 100% micro fibre cotton towel, if it
flashes too quickly (hot surface or
environment) use further dilution
After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical
cleaning its protective layer (s) have
been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very
important that a wax or polymer protection
be applied immediately.
Application
methodology - saturate a soft clean 100% micro fibre cotton detail towel.
Lightly rub area to be cleaned, wipe off and repeat if necessary. Finally wipe
dry with a clean micro fibre towel.
After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical
cleaning its protective layer (s) have
been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very
important that a wax or polymer protection
be applied immediately.
Power
cable extension
Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI (Ground Fault Indicator)
Junction Box with 6-Ft. Cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle
detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent
shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord
UL listed, meets OSHA standards.
Prime Wire & Cable 50-Ft extension 12/3 Neon Power Cord —
Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy
identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl
jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates
when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V,
1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool
Power cord length (with 5%) voltage drop calc - http://www.lightshow.cc/explorer/Calculators/Power_/power_.html
Cable
Gauge
·
16 Gauge up to 100 feet long will adequately handle loads up to
10 amps.
·
14 Gauge between 0 and 50 feet long will adequately handle loads
between 10 and 15 amps.
·
12 Gauge if the electrical load is between 10 and 15 amps and
the length of the cord is 50 to 100 feet
1.
Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI (Ground Fault
Indicator) - Junction Box with 6-Ft. Cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex
receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second
to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW
power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.
2.
Prime Wire & Cable extension - 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON
extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord
features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F.
LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant
and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool Co
Wire
Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator - http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
Current
Information
To be of real practical use,
a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and
updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like
detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing
abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s
so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and
ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying
them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a
regular basis
Always be willing to learn; because the
more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. You should never stop
learning, and your quest for information should be part of your everyday
process. It is
said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a
reliable information sources. I would like to think
that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to
professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their
knowledge.
I detailed my first vehicle at the age
of fourteen (1958) forty plus years later I started to write detailing articles
to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I started to contribute
to various detailing forums answering questions posted by neophyte’s,
enthusiasts and professionals alike.
My mantra has always been Experience Unshared
Knowledge Wasted.
About the author - http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/about-author.html
This is not a product vendor’s
catalogue, nor am I a vendor pretending to be an educator, as there are a lot
of companies that are now sponsoring detailing forums, giving advice and
preaching that only the product they sell or manufacture are suitable. In
reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of educators, mere
salesman. Those who have something to sell can be very persuasive, often using
marketing pseudo-science (i.e.
blurring the distinction between science and fiction) to make a great case
while completely ignoring meaningful facts, like their product adds nothing of
real value.
I purchase all the products I use, so
the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the product
recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the tin" and
it suits my detailing goals. The products mentioned have been personally
subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and
methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field
testing, and using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the
same as those recommended by the manufacturer.
It has been my experience that they will
perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal recommendation, as
this testing is carried out without sponsorship I have no intention of
publishing any test results. Using the methodology and tools cited, which may
or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.
I
hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of
technical development as well as my experience with the products.
By having
some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a
little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can
achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share
these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
As always if you have questions, I’ll do
my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions are the one that was
unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated
Copyright
© 2002 - 2015 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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