Product Application
What is equally important
with any towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and
don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the towel in half,
then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the
surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see
the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different,
clean section.
With it folded properly
you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually
takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to
clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry
More and more towels are
being produced from fibres other than cotton such as Modal®, Micro fibre, bamboo,
seaweed, Lyocel® and now soybean, corn and other Tri-blend bamboo, silk and
cotton blend is also beginning to be used in towels. Bamboo may be the next
premium fibre other than high quality cotton fibres.
Such as Egyptian, Pima and
Supima qualities, bamboo can be used in towels because of its softness, lustre,
antibacterial properties and greater absorbency. However, it has yet to gain acceptance
on a large scale
Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals
a)
Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too can damage carpets, upholstery,
wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional labour to
correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.
b)
Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning
performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet
and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things
as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.
c) Spot testing to ensure chemical will not stain or
damage material is also very important
Micro fibre
(Microfiber) and 100% Cotton Towels
History
As one of the answers of how
to use petroleum waste products efficiently, then micro fibre emerged as a way
to take something that was useless and turn it into a product that everyone
could use. Here is some background on the development of micro fibre and some
of the uses for the material.
During the middle twentieth
century, the manufacture of synthetic fibres began to expand into new areas.
One of the breakthroughs of the era was to take the sludge that was left over
after oil had been refined and turn it into a synthetic fibre that could be
used in upholstery.
The process of refining this
waste product yielded a substance known as polypropylene, which could in turn
be processed into a thin olefin fibre. Olefin fibres were ideal to use in the
production of car upholstery, home and office carpeting, and even some
draperies. Olefin fibres caught on in a big way during the 1970’s, with such
companies as Hercules, Inc. of Wilmington, Delaware producing their own branded
form of olefin fibre, which was dubbed Herculon®.
A Revolutionary Product
It’s a revolutionary product
that’s not causing a revolution. After its debut in 1970 in Sweden and success
throughout Europe, micro fibre cleaning textiles should have replaced most of
the household chemicals that smear, powder, spray, and infuse almost every inch
of the American home. Micro fibre cleans surfaces mechanically, not chemically,
by scraping them with microscopic precision. And you don’t throw the products
away, but keep renewing them with machine or hand washing.
“It’s one of the greenest products out
there. From the research we’ve done, micro fibre cleans and removes dirt and
bacteria with water alone. You do not need chemicals,”
says Judy Klein, director of retail cleaning for Newell Rubbermaid, the $6.4
billion Corporation that in 2007 introduced a consumer line of micro fibre
cleaning products.
For the most part, though,
disbelief has stunted micro fibre’s proliferation. The claims of chemical-free
cleaning are too vast to trust and too complex to understand for the average
consumer and the products are too expensive to risk taking the chance. Because
the terms “micro fibre or Microfiber” are not regulated, quality products share
the same labelling with much lesser quality ones, exacerbating the problem of
trust.
Micro fibre
Came about by combining two DuPont
inventions: hydrophobic Polyester (a scrubbing fibre) which
also gives the material strength and durability and a hydrophilic Polyamide (an absorbing fibre) that is
tremendously absorbent and quick drying. This nylon hybrid is created during
weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks,
scrubbing away dirt and grime.
The
nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to
absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively
encapsulate liquids. This fabric actually lifts the dirt or wax from the
surface you are cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel
until it is washed.
Micro fibre is an ideal medium
for cleaning but less than ideal for the application of products (wax,
coatings, etc.) A low nap towel is a far more efficient medium.
Each micro fibre towel
contains approx. 50,000 fibres for an average micro fibre towel and up to
200,000 fibres per square inch for a plush micro fibre towel that trap dirt and
remove it from the surface. No matter how soft it feels, polyester, being a
plastic will scratch a paint surface on a microscopic level, which shows up as
towelling marks, longer scratches than the usual small swirl marks or micro
marring
The polyester and nylon are
alternatively forced through a nozzle that combines them through a heat weaving
process. The fibre is then split a number of times to create the micro fibres
that are then intertwined to create an ultra-absorbent material. The polyester
and polyimide are combined during weaving to create thousands of microscopic
loops.
No matter how soft it feels,
polyester, being a plastic will scratch a paint surface on a microscopic level,
which shows up as towelling marks, longer scratches than the usual small swirl
marks or micro marring
There are approximately five or perhaps
six plants that produce micro fibre fabric towels and these are based in either
China or Korea. They are available in different ratios i.e. a 70% polyester/30%
polyamide (or 80/20%) The polyamide is used as the core of the hybrid fibre and
the polyester is the outer skin. Each micro fibre towel contains approx. 50,000
for an average micro fibre towel and up to 200,000 fibres per square inch for a
plush micro fibre towel that trap dirt and remove it from the surface. Each
fibre has specific qualities, that when properly blended, can be used to weave
functionally specific fabrics by varying nap length and / or densities.
These loops form a web of
hook-like claws that can reach into the tiniest nooks and crannies, it actually
lifts the dirt or wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store the
particle or liquid in the towel until it is washed. The splitting of the fibre
creates millions of edges that enable you to clean closer to surfaces and trap
all the dust and dirt that bonds to the micro fibre material and is not
released until the cloth is washed in hot water. Therefore, the dirt is not
transferred from surface to surface while cleaning. And, micro fibre cloths
work especially well on mirrors, windows, and glass because the surface will
dry totally streak free.
Micro fibre definition (Microfiber US
spelling)
There seems to be quite a
lot of confusion as to exactly what micro fibre actually is.
By definition [: very small; involving minute
quantities or variations] it
is not a fabric; but a yarn, that’s spun into thread, which is
then used to weave a terry fabric. These ultra-fine yarns (twice as fine as
silk and is 100 times finer than a human hair) are made from various sources,
they can be made from many different materials, such as a 70% polyester/30%
polyamide (or 80/20%) or a natural material such as cellulose, a plant
carbohydrate. Potentially any fibre could be made into a micro fibre.
A denier is a unit of
measure for the linear mass density of fibres. It is defined as the mass in
grams per 9,000 meters. A fibre is generally considered a microfiber if it is 1
denier or less (2.25 µ (micron). The denier is based on a natural standard: a
single strand of fine silk is approximately 1.0 denier. In order to be classed
as a micro fibre, the fibre must be less than one denier thickness. Micro fibres are formed by forcing material
through microscopic openings in a device called a spinneret. With micro fibres,
the holes are finer than with conventional fibres, with 90,000 to 200,000 fibre
strands in a square inch of fabric
There are currently two
countries that manufacture and export micro fibre towels, Korea and China. The
quality of these products is dependent upon the quality assurance (if any)
programs employed. More so than many car care products - you'll (usually) get
the quality you pay for. Purchasing them from a reliable vendor is the safest
bet.
Its scratch resistance has a
lot to do with the way the fibres are processed and spun, there are too many
factors to be able to say conclusively that natural fibres will not cause
scratches and artificial fibres will. However, natural fibres are far less likely
to scratch, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could
scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.
The materials used to
produce micro fibre was a combination of two DuPont fibres, polyester (the scrubbing
and cleaning fibre), and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre),
which is used as the core and polyester as the outer fibre. No matter how soft
it feels, polyester, being a plastic will scratch a paint surface on a
microscopic level, which shows up as towelling marks, longer scratches than the
usual small swirl marks or micro marring
The nature of this yarn is
that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the
many thousands of micro fibres that collectively are encapsulating a lot of
water. Once they become coated with detergent, polish or fabric softener, etc.
they lose their absorbent abilities.
The smaller the diameter of
the yarn, the softer the fabric will feel, however this does not mean that it's
non-abrasive and will not cause scratches (this softness can also be chemically
induced).
Microfiber Polyester / Polyamide
The polyester loops form a
web of hook-like claws that can reach into the tiniest nooks and crannies, it
actually lifts the dirt or wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store
the particle or liquid in the towel until it is washed. This is what makes
Micro fibre the ideal choice for gently buffing dirt particles off delicate
glass and paint surfaces, without fear of abrasion.
A Microfiber towel is made
from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre)
and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre), these microscopic
loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while
trapping it within the weave, the reason polyester appears to absorb
liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate
liquids. Water,
being hydrophilic also adheres to micro fibre. The polyester and polyamide are
combined during weaving to create anywhere from 50,000 for an average
microfiber to 200,000 pores per square inch for a very plush Microfiber towel.
Most micro fibre that
originates from Asia and the Far East is fabricated from polyester or nylon
by-products. Because the label says micro fibre is no assurance that the
material is safe to use or that it is non-abrasive. The most important criteria
for any fabric used on a vehicle surface is its quality and scratch resistance.
Microfibers are not made from a
renewable resource nor are they biodegradable. The material used to make
Microfiber is flammable and emit toxic gases when burned.
In
order to be effective for cleaning and polishing usage, the Micro fibre must be
split during processing; the polyester (the scrubbing fibre) is split from the
polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre). If this is not carried out
the resulting product loses over half of its absorbing and cleaning ability
Regardless of material type
or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch,
Microfiber has static attractant properties (polyester) that is dirt, dust, and
various other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works
so well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using
Microfiber towels on your paint or interior surfaces
Polyamide
[: a
polymer containing monomers of amides joined by peptide bonds]
They can occur both
naturally and artificially, examples being proteins (such as wool and silk) and
can be made artificially through step-growth polymerization (nylons, aramids,
and sodium poly).
Polyesters
Include naturally-occurring chemicals,
such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as synthetics through
step-growth polymerization such as polycarbonate and polybutyrate. The melting
point of polyester 480 – 570.OF (250-300°C)
Things to look for in a
micro fibre towel
·
How
many times the fibres are split - a higher
split ensues you get a more effective cleaning towel. Splitting the fibres
creates millions of edges that trap dirt and dust that bonds to the fibres and
is not released until the towel is washed in hot water. Therefore, the dirt is
not re-deposited on the paint surface.
·
Denier
[: weight per unit length (linear density) measure
of a continuous filament or yarn, used traditionally in textile industry] The higher the number, the thicker the fibre
·
Threads
per square inch - for any towel that
touches paint, you should aim for at least 150,000 threads per square inch and
200,000 or more is ideal. This high thread count is primarily for increased
performance, although can often help decrease your scratch risk. In general, using
plush microfiber with long threads will not only give you significantly better
performance but will also help reduce your scratch/swirl risk, often by a large
margin
·
Density
of fibre - bear in mind that less density of fibre, translate into less
cleaning power and far less durability. -
is a measure of fibres per square inch of fabric.
The range for quality
micro fibre is 90,000 to 225,000 fibres per square inch. The higher the fibre
count the more absorbent. The less dense cloths are also more abrasive to
delicate surfaces. Look for at least 200,000 fibres per square inch of fabric.
·
Ratio
- of polyester (a scrubbing
fibre) and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) blend; an 80%
polyester and 20% polyamide is typical (80/20) a 70/30 blend will absorb water
faster. As polyamide is much more expensive than polyester, you can expect to
pay more for a 70/30 blend.
·
Quality
- lesser quality versions can use a weave that is too wide or a
pile that is too long, which causes the fibres to shed during use, leaving a
lint trail.
·
Edging- one of the of the
advantages of a silk/satin edging is that they won't unravel when washed
several times like a non-edged towel nor will they cause marring of the paint
surface, it also means that they will not snag. Towel borders will in evidently
cause scratches; some materials used as towel edge borders treatments include;
over locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber
edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations of style and material.
·
Weave -the weave on micro fibre towels can be adjusted to meet
specific requirements; a terry-loop, cut, hooked feathered, zigzag or Piqué
waffle weaves.
·
Size
- available in various sizes 16 -inch x 16 / 18 / 24 -inch,
drying towels 25 -inch x 16 -inch being a usable size
·
Thickness
- some manufacturers are rating the thickness of their towels by
weight; expressed in grams per square meter (GSM). The ratio of polyester and
polyamide usually remains the same.
·
Melting
point - Polyester (fabric) 509 °F (265 °C), and
Polyamide 420°F (216°C),
When choosing micro fibre
quality is very important, as a lack of quality inspection will result in
variable results i.e. towels that will cause surface scratches, leave a trail
of lint, etc. Many of the Micro fibre products being offered on the market are
made from non-split (non-absorbent and ineffective) yarn. The manufacturer forgoes the expensive splitting
procedure to save money, and the result is a failing product.
Not only does the blend lose
over half of its absorbing and cleaning ability but it weakens with use,
greatly reducing the life of the product. Some micro fibre products from China
and Korea have less density and a denier (length of measure) of 0.5 or higher,
which is 50 x’s larger than the preferred quality denier of 0.02 or smaller.
A good quality towel may
cost more, but it will last longer. There
are maybe three to five factories in the world capable of making microfibre
cloths, and only one or two that are capable of producing high quality
products, none of which are owned by a detailing focused company or
'manufacturer'. The most important thing to remember is that a good quality
micro fibre towel will provide better cleaning results and is less likely to
cause surface scratches than lesser quality towels Micro fibre quality is very
often reflected in the purchase price, best advice; use only high quality micro
fibre towels from a reputable source (Pakshak Micropak)
As with most things, you'll usually
get the quality you pay for; as Henry Royce once commented [the quality tends to be remembered long
after the price has been forgotten]
Testing Micro fibre
A towel's quality can change
over time; poor washing methods (separate towels used for different uses) even
certain products can affect your towels; so test periodically
There are always places on a
car where older microfibers can be used: door jambs, glass, some wheels. A
couple of ‘non-scientific test’ you could use to assimilate wither or not a
towel (or any other cloth you'd use on a paint surface) will cause scratches,
they are not at all scientific nor 100% accurate, they are only indicative of
what the towel may do to your paint surface, but then which is preferable to
scratch a CD or your paint surface?
Ensure the towels have been
washed before carrying out these ‘tests’, and test them using the same criteria
you’d use then; damp and remember, even the softest towels will scratch if too
much pressure is used,
If the towel does scratch the CD’s surface
that doesn’t necessarily mean that it will scratch the vehicles paint, a CD has
a much softer surface than automobile paint so use caution, initially trying an
inconspicuous area of the paint surface
CD Scratch Test
Take a damp micro fibre
cloth and use medium to heavy pressure rub the data surface of a CD. If no
scratching is evident then it probably won’t scratch the vehicles paint
surface, be aware that the bindings can also cause scratching. Ensure you wash before
you use a micro fibre towel for the first time and use it on an inconspicuous
area first.
Burn Test
Micro fibre towels are made from various
fabrics; some are made from cotton, rayon or acrylic and nylon, although
Microfiber is invariably polyester (nylon). The melting point of polyester 480
– 570.OF (250-300°C)
A simple non-destructive
test to ascertain which fibre the towel contains; take butane lighter and put
the fibre close to the flame, but not in the flame If the fibre pulls away from
the flame, you have a synthetic fibre (nylon or polyester, most likely). This
means you can easily clean the fabric with typical aggression. If the fibre
does not pull away, apply a naked flame, if the resulting ash is crumbly and
gives you a "dirty finger" when you crush it, you no doubt have a
natural fibre
Anti-Static
Static
[the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and
relocated on the surface of the other material]
We can feel, hear and even see
the spark as the excess charge is neutralized when brought close to a large
electrical conductor (for example a path to ground), or a region with an excess
charge of the opposite polarity (positive or negative).
Static electricity is an
occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when
certain materials are rubbed against each other (friction). Finish Kare's 425
quick detailer (QD) has in-built anti-static properties.
A 100% cotton micro fibre
towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by
friction using a polyester (nylon) micro fibre towel on a polythene clear coat,
using a damp towel will diminish the static effect
Using Micro fibre
The first thing you should
do when you get a new micro fibre towel is to wash and dry it. Most towels are
washed several times by the manufacturer to remove excess dye and any
contaminants from the air and machinery. Unfortunately, this leaves the towel
looking limp and used. So, manufacturers then "size" the towel to
make it look more attractive and new again. This "sizing" process
uses a starch and silicone mixture that will scratch and contaminate your paint
finish. There will also be a number of loose threads that, while they cause no
harm, can be annoying the first time you use the towel.
Some towel manufacturer’s
use a chemical to make the fabric soft, these chemicals should be removed by
washing, it is very important to wash new towels before they are used for the
first time.
Only use liquid detergents;
never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and
become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are
cleaning. (See also
Micro Fibre Care)
There are many towel edge
treatments including over- locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut,
silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations
of style and material, but nearly all of them will cause scratching. Either use
borderless or fold the towel so the border is on the inside
A good microfiber cannot unload
particles without being immersed in water. If you wipe back and forth while
detailing, you will be rubbing the dirt you pick up back and forth over the
paint. Water provides the necessary surface lubrication. Simply wet the towel
with clean water and wring as dry as possible, or mist a cloth with water to
get the right amount of dampness, if the cloth is too wet it will leave
streaks.
Fold the towel into four quarters Wet (a damp microfiber will clean better than a dry one) – Wring – Wipe- when
drying Wipe
– Wring - Wipe if the towel becomes too
dirty, it will begin to streak; it is then time to use another clean towel. If you drop a micro fibre towel; change t for a clean
one, they are designed to ‘hold on’ to dirt particles that shacking will not
free it of containment or dirt particulates.
Methodology
- fold the towel into four quarters when using microfiber towels;
it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all visible contamination is
removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost
everything without casing surface scratches.
What is equally important
with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned
frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in
half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and
then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel
start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean
section.
With it folded properly
you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually
takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to
clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry (See Micro Fibre Washing / Care)
Microfiber (Polishing) Pads
The reason for using
non-diminishing abrasives with a microfiber pad is that the ‘hooks’ in this
type of pad hold the abrasive, whereas a diminishing abrasives roll across the
polishing surface (much like ball bearings) promoting the abrasives to
breakdown, or diminish.
This combination of pad /
polish requires medium to heavy pressure to ensure the abrasives are in
constant contact with the paint surface.
The short fibres have a
large surface area, which increases the abrasive available, far more than a
foam pad of a similar size. This makes it possible to increase the abrasive
ability of the pad/polish combination, while still providing a high gloss
finish.
Is quite different than
cleaning a foam or wool pad, with these pads the nap will become matted from
the polish and oxidized paint a different method had to be used. Using a brush
to remove the heavily saturated compound and paint particles required a stiff
brush, followed by compressed air. If this option is not available, brush the
pads frequently with a nylon brush while the machine spins the pad.
It is important to keep the
fibre from matting down as well as preventing contaminated abrasives from
clumping together and marring the surface.
The advantage with this new
system is you only need one pad for an entire vehicle. Cleaning the microfiber
pad using a strong jet of compressed air and taking a couple of minutes to
thoroughly clean a pad after each panel is key (See also Paint Restoration article)
Types and Uses for Detailing Towels
Like detailing pads there is
no standard colour system to denote what a towel is used for, each manufacturer
uses a different colour for their towels. Generally, use a short nap for
removing waxes and sealants and a longer nap for final buffing.
The towel that is best suited
for use on glass and quick detail spray (QD) is a short nap towel, as opposed
to a plush towel. The short nap towel provides a better grip on glass and does
not absorb the detail spray when using it on paint. This makes your supply last
a lot longer and really allows the glass cleaner to work efficiently
General Purpose - a micro fibre towels
with a standard terry cloth weave, a medium thick nap and an 80/20 blend of
polyester and polyamide. Used for buffing paint, glass, vinyl, plastic and
leather. Ideal for quick detailing (QD) this will be the most frequently used
towel.
PolyFibre2 - micro fibre towels,
are very soft while having more bite and polishing ability than traditional
micro fibre, it's 25% more absorbent using 80/20 Polyester/Nylon micro fibre
mix woven in Brazil with no generic polyamide (typically referred to as a nylon
by-product). These towels are finished and inspected in the USA under the
strictest quality control standards.
Glass – cleaning towels fibre is feathered as opposed to hooked; this
produces a cloth with substantially greater absorption. Soil, grime and oily
films are removed from the surface by capillary action. Micro fibre towels that
work well for polishing and glass cleaning seem to have similar
characteristics, the towel ideally should be 100% lint free; this means the
weave is going to have a shorter nap than a general purpose towel. A decent
glass towel needs scrubbing power to successfully remove the residue that cause
streaking, sharing the same characteristic that makes a good polishing cloth.
This
micro fibre towel is so effective at cleaning glass that often a glass cleaner
chemical isn't even necessary. It features a very low-pile cut in a zigzag
pattern which literally attracts and removes off-gassing, residue, smudges and
oily finger prints. Its efficient cleaning action is truly a time saver.
Double finish Towels- some
towels have a different finish on either side of the towel; use the long fibre
side for wax removal and the short fibres for polish removal
Finishing Towels – Sonus Der Wunder Buffing Towels, this white dual sided
towel has red silk edges and both medium long and short density pile. Use for
LSP or QD duties, it remains soft and pliant after many wash / dry cycles. Zaino blonde
towel with ‘edgeless’ construction, double sided with long, single density pile
on both sides. Use for LSP or QD duties, it
remains soft and pliant after many wash / dry cycles. Ideal for spray liquid
and (Nano) coatings wipe down
Drying - There are two different micro fibre towelling weaves that make
good drying towels: terry cloth and Piqué or waffle weave. [Piqué isn't more absorbent than terry but
the ridges act as hundreds of little squeegees which push the water up into the
cups giving the fabric time to absorb.] Leo Cerruti
Pakshak Micropak Ultra-Soft Waffle Weave Micro Fibre
Drying Towel
- very absorbent,
dries streak-free, no lint left behind, also has a silk edging.
Waffle Weave Towel (Piqué) - is a synthetic
micro fibre woven with a dimpled pattern, which provides thousands of small
pockets to trap dirt or grit. The absorbency of these towels is quite
remarkable; they are able to hold seven or eight times their weight in water. When
they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the
surface.
The ‘pockets’ in the weave
‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products
that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause
serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry as it can potentially scratch)
That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that
the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.
General Purpose - Pakshak Micropak Ultra-Smooth Micro
Fibre Towel - an all-purpose towel, highly recommended; smooth soft pile,
streak-free absorbent towel with silk edge border.
Micro fibre quality is very
often reflected in the purchase price, best advice; use only high quality micro
fibre towels from a reputable source
As with most things, you'll
usually get the quality you pay for; as Henry Royce once commented [the quality tends to be remembered long
after the price has been forgotten]
You may find micro fibre towels labelled
for other uses, but most will fit into the categories listed above
The reason I advise against
the use of natural or synthetic chamois leather or flat surface synthetic
sponges is that grit or dirt can become trapped between its flat surface and
the paint causing scratches.
100% Cotton Towels
Cotton has been used to make
very fine lightweight cloth in areas with tropical climates for millennia. Some
authorities claim that it was likely that the Egyptians had cotton as early as
12,000 BC, and evidence has been found of cotton in Mexican caves which dated
back to approximately 7,000 years ago. The Arabic
peoples called it ‘Qutun,’ which is where we get the word cotton.
There are several major
types of cotton such as American Pima cotton, China, Egyptian, Indian and Sea
Island. Cotton fibres have a fairly uniform width of 12-20 µ (2 – 5 denier).
The chemical composition of
cotton is as follows:
·
cellulose 91.00%
·
water 7.85%
·
protoplasm, pectin’s 0.55%
·
waxes, fatty substances 0.40%
·
mineral salts 0.20%
The quality of cotton towels
is determined by the gsm (grams per square metre). Poor quality towels have a
gsm of 200 - 300. Superior quality towels have a gsm of 400 and 600. The more
grams per square metre are an indication that the towel is more absorbent and
longer lasting.
Be cognizant that with some
towels the nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in
it. Applying too much pressure on the towel you may produce some fine scratches
or swirls. Be cognizant that whenever you use an abrasive you will cause
scratches on the paint surface, they may be invisible to the naked eye but they
are there nonetheless
All commercially available
towels are washed several times by the manufacturer to remove excess dye.
Unfortunately, this leaves the towel looking limp and used so they are
"sized" to make them look new again. This "sizing" process
uses a starch and silicone mixture that will scratch and contaminate your paint
finish. This is why it’s so important to wash any towel before first use
Removing Paint Protection Products (Wax,
Polymer, etc.)
The polyester and polyamide
content of Microfiber is typically; a blend of 80% polyester (a scrubbing
fibre) and 20% polyamide (an absorbing fibre). The nature of this yarn is that
it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many
thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate, this is what makes
them so good at cleaning. These are some of the reasons I like the concept of
microfiber, but I’ve yet to see a consistency in their quality as most are
produced to a price not a quality specification.
a)
Microfiber
towel - made from polyester/polyamide will remove product (wax and
polymer sealant, etc.) as they actually lift the wax from the surface you are
cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel. They hold these
foreign materials in their web of hooks until they are washed in warm water
where the fibres relax and release these materials (that’s why they are so good
at cleaning without the use of chemicals). The polyester and polyamide are
combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of
tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave.
Conversely the same
attributes that make Microfiber so good at cleaning have an adverse effect when
applying wax. A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond with the paint surface,
so when you remove it, you are removing excess product. An organic wax however,
doesn’t form a bond with the paint surface but merely adheres to it, forming a
chain-link type coating.
b)
Zymol
Microwipe – is not a microfiber as it’s made from
nylon + nytril, a synthetic quad axial woven material that repels wax, forcing
it to bond during application. It contains at least 85% of a long-chain polymer
(vinylidene dinitrile. It’s fibre’s are soft and resilient and are an
alternative to final buffing with a cotton towel. The ultra-lightweight,
"rubber" quad axial woven material repels wax, forcing all of the wax
or glaze to bond during application. Additionally, the Microwipe allows you to
let the wax "stand" for longer (up to 5 minutes) before buffing to a
brilliant deep shine. The Zymol Microwipe also eliminates over-buffing which
can be a potential source of scratching
c)
100% Cotton Towel - high thread count, 100% cotton lint-free, with
limited absorption so saves on product These detailing towels with a terrycloth weave are spun with long
staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the
larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a
fine nap, ideal for buffing. A
100% cotton towel will leave enough of the wax behind to enable it to form a
surface coating. Swissvax cotton towels
Note
- a terry weave towel has slight abrasive ability, which may be useful with
some cleaning products
Be cognizant of the material (s) used to bind
the edges of the towel (Microfiber or 100% cotton) These are much more likely
to cause surface marring than the towel itself, the solution is to ensure they
are paint friendly or remove the edge binding. These towels will not scratch;
however trapped grit or debris will cause paint surface scratches.
I can't say enough about
cotton towelling for removing organic waxes. While Microfiber has some
advantages over 100% cotton I have always been an advocate for the use of 100%
cotton fibre towels for the application and removal of wax products. For some
cotton towelling is a thing of past.
But for many of the required
tasks involved with the application or removal of organic waxes cotton seems to
me to be the ideal choice, I just couldn't find anything that could out perform
an all-around old fashion 100% cotton micro fibre towel.
Swissvax, Victoria Wax and
Zymol (among others) manufacture quality, lint-free 100% cotton towels (IMO one
of the best of this type of towel was manufactured by a company that is no
longer trading,
a)
Cotton Towel - high thread count, 100% cotton lint-free, with
limited absorption so saves on product These detailing towels with a terrycloth weave are spun with long
staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the
larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a
fine nap, ideal for buffing. A
100% cotton towel will leave enough of the wax behind to enable it to form a
surface coating.
Note
- a terry weave towel has slight abrasive ability, which may be useful with
some cleaning products
Be cognizant of the material (s) used to bind
the edges of the towel (over locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic
cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other
combinations of style and material). These are much more likely to cause
surface marring than the towel itself, the solution is to ensure they are paint
friendly or better yet, remove the edge binding
100% Cotton Terry Towel; this
type of weave is also ideal for removing oxidation as it provides a gentle form
of abrading action that will either be the sole means of abrasion or add to
whatever the abrasive your using
1. Swisswax Cotton
Towel - high quality Swissvax Cleaner Towel is made from high thread-count100%
pure cotton, with long fibres. These
towels aren't sized nor are chemicals applied to make them ‘fluffy’, this
naturally soft surface won’t cause micro-abrasions or swirls Specially woven in
Germany along with protected edges, for easy distinction, Swissvax has coloured
the Cleaner Towel black and the Wax Towel red.
2. Zymöl Buffing
Towels - made from high thread count 100% pure cotton, which is excellent for
safely bringing out a deep shine from your latest waxing, woven from 100% terry
cloth cotton, with no harmful silicone or other synthetic content. These towels
feature a thick loft that naturally draws excess wax and particles up and into
the cloth. Unlike all other cotton towels, Zymöl Buffing Towels aren't
chemically fluffed (or "sized"), making a naturally softer surface
that won't cause micro-abrasions or swirls
3. Victoria Wax -both
the matting and loops are of 100% cotton, a combination that is hard to find
now days. Dyed blue for colour coding and ease of keeping separate from other
towelling; these towels get better every time it is laundered and it is just
right in thickness and weight.
4. Zaino
Blond Border Free Towel – 16 x 16-inch border free design, 100%
cotton towel won’t scratch, safe scratch-free and efficient buffing of product
5. Zaino Custom Polish
Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator,
approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent
scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features the
finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a
special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a
light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will
make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.
After use, hand wash applicator
6. Scratch
Protector -
towels are made from premium low-twist, super-absorbent, 100% Cotton fibre,
with a
100% cotton hem, making it super soft, lint-free, and extremely durable. The
deep nap acts as a shield, providing extra surface protection from harmful
particles, dirt and pollutants. The
towels are also designed without a tag to ensure only 100% cotton is touching
your delicate surfaces.
E-Cloth
(Micro fibre)
Each cloth is made from
multi-stranded fibres that actually absorb dirt and bacteria, locking them into
the fabric of the cloth, giving far better cleaning performance in that they
pick up more than ordinary cloths combined with chemicals which, rather than
absorbing soil and grime just push them around the surface, leaving a residue
that in turn attracts more dirt
Machine washable over 300
times; dependent upon use, this should give a ‘life’ of three plus years of
superior cleaning performance. Better for the environment as you don’t need
harsh chemicals when using the e-cloth system saving you money by not having to
use sprays and chemicals etc. a whole new way of cleaning - E-Cloth.com
Micro fibre Care
Not all towels are created equal, and many are a mixture of
polyester and cotton, with polyester edging that will scratch paint. Domestic bath towels are washed several times
by the manufacturer to remove excess dye. Unfortunately, this leaves the towel
looking limp and used. So, manufacturers then "size" the towel to
make it look more attractive and new again. This "sizing" process
uses a starch and silicone mixture that will scratch and contaminate your paint
finish.
Be
cognizant that Microfiber degrades over time; the amount of useful life is
dependent on, quality, the chemicals used for washing and the drying method
used. Heat will cause the fine hooks to become rounded, making them less
effective, thus, causing very fine micro marring swirl marks that become
visible with over use of a degraded Microfiber towel.
Proper care is simple; to
ensure your towels and buffing cloths provide long-term use, wash them
frequently after every use and as soon as possible, in a liquid soap (Micro
Restore) in hot 120 oF< (48oC <) water, add
a teaspoon per towel distilled white vinegar (typically 4% to 18% acetic acid)
the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent
residue (do not use fabric softener)
in the rise cycle, and finally a thorough cold rinse. Always wash micro fibre
separately and only with other micro fibre fabrics. Use the hot setting on
dryer, (your towels will not melt) no softener sheets
Microfiber filaments are
positively charged, while dust and dirt carry a negative charge. Never expose
them to fabric softener. It can weaken
the static charge of the filaments and reduce their effectiveness.
Regardless of material type
or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch, micro
fibre has attractant properties, that is dirt, dust, and various other
substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so well, but
it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using towels on your
paint
Towel Cleaning / Care
Three types of energy are required;
1. Chemical energy-
provided by the synthetic cleaner
2.
Mechanical energy - (agitation) provide by machine or hand
3. Thermal energy -provided by
warm or hot water; heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster as it
reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension.
Before using any towels for the first
time;
·
Remove labels / tags
·
Check for towel colour fastness before washing
·
Wash towels before using to remove chemical sizing (used to
plump up fibres)
·
Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore
high efficiency (HE) washer safe) without softener, bleach,
whiteners.
A Microfiber towel is made
from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre)
and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre), these microscopic
loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while
trapping it within the weave, the reason polyester appears to absorb
liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate
liquids
Be cognizant that although
most of us consider Microfiber to be almost indestructible it needs proper care
to ensure it keeps working the way it should and to maintain its
durability. The nature of this yarn is
that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the
many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids and
chemicals (solvents, wax, polymers, and etc.)
The detergent used to clean
them must be strong enough to remove the chemicals without harming the fibres.
The methods used for towel drying are equally important, high heat plus the
agitation of an automatic dryer can round the edges of the microscopic hooks,
rendering them ineffective
Before using Washing Machine
To ensure that the washing
machine has no residual detergent or fabric softener; rise the machine drum
with a 1:3 solution of washing liquid (with no bleach) / distilled white
vinegar, clean about every 2-3 months
Car care products can get
left behind in the drum; so run a cleaning cycle before and another once you’ve
finished washing your micro fibre towels, using hot water, some liquid
detergent and distilled white vinegar.
(HE) Washing Machine Maintenance
Wash towels on hottest
setting (sanitary cycle, max time, extra rinse) Modern high-efficiency washer’s
use less water and seal more tightly than older, less-efficient machines, these
washers are more prone to residue build-up. To address this issue, Whirlpool
pioneered the development of Affresh tablets, a
simple, powerful and universal solution. All brands of HE washing machines have
the potential for mould and mildew stains if not properly cleaned on a regular
basis.
To ensure maximum
performance, appliance manufacturers recommend a monthly maintenance and
cleaning routine. Many cleaning products currently on the market with
ingredients such as bleach adequately maintain the washer, but results may vary
and are not always consistent.
Used every 4-8 weeks
(dependent upon machine usage) it will prevents odour-causing residues from
accumulating, although heavily soiled washers may require repeated treatments
to remove traces of odour and residue. In this case, Whirlpool recommends
running three successive washer cleaning cycles with an Affresh
tablet in each.
Wash Towels after use
Always wash towels as soon
as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the contaminants will set.
The chemicals used in car care products will negatively affect the fibres
structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful life. Residual
chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will cause scratches.
Do not use bleach or high
alkaline cleaning products as they will shorten the life of your micro
fibre. Read the label on the detergent
bottle and use half of what they recommend and use hot water (120.oF)
Do not wash different types
of towels together. And always wash each colour separately; never wash white
towels with colours.
Glass Drying Towels
Towels used for cleaning
glass should always be washed separately to ensure there is no cross
contamination of oils, waxes and etc. as this is the one of the causes of glass
streaking
Washing – use these towels exclusively for glass and wash them
with hot water (no detergents) and one cup vinegar (Heinz® All Natural
Cleaning Vinegar) the vinegar doesn't coat the
fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid
counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2)
works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Any kind of laundry
soap will leave residue that remains in the micro-fibre, which will then leave
streaks, smears or haze.
Rinsing – after washing them in vinegar, re-wash with just clean
water ... just to be 100% sure there's no soap residue in the micro-fibres use
baking soda (Church and Dwight Arm & Hammer™) add 1/2 cup to the rinse cycle to freshen towels
Drying
Air dry or use low heat
machine dry
Refresh Towels
Over time, towels build up
detergent residue, leaving them unable to absorb as much water. Refresh them by
washing them once with hot water and one cup vinegar, then a second time with
hot water and half cup sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) or baking soda (Church and Dwight
- Arm & Hammer™). This strips the residue and
leaves them fresh and restores their absorbency.
Cleaning the Dryer
Everyone
knows about cleaning the lint trap inside clothes dryers, but how many people
regularly clean out their dryer exhaust ducts?
Start by unplugging your dryer and
removing the flexible duct from the back of the dryer. Use a large cleaning
brush to remove any lint and then use that brush to push out any lint from
behind your lint trap. Vacuum everything up and repeat the same process where
the duct exhaust exits your house. After removing the flexible exhaust duct
from the back of the dryer remove any accumulated lint between the flexible
duct and the rigid exhaust pipe, also clear any lint from any 90-degree bends
or turns in the pipe as well as any lint inside the exhaust duct
Getting rid of that will alleviate any
fire risk due to lint accumulation, as well as a big increase of efficiency in
one of the most energy-intensive appliances should motivate home owners and
even renters to clean the ductwork once a year or so.
Lint
Nothing removes lint out of
the towel (new or used) better than a few spin dryer cycles. Washing also makes
your new towels softer and more absorbent. A good first wash formula is 1 cup
of distilled white vinegar with a half cup of detergent. This will help release
lint, break towels in, and keep them fresh. It is also useful to soak new
towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will
dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another
good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with a half cup of detergent.
Washer Loading
Do not overload the machine,
use just enough for a good medium sized load, and remember that micro fibre
towels hole ~ seven times its weight of water, so by using too many they will
not be cleaned effectively. A large washing machine can usually accommodate 35 – 40 medium sized
towels
Washing / Care Directions
Heat acts as a catalyst
promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing
dwell time. Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in soil, agitation
or hand rubbing helps pull the soil free. This concentrated aqueous formula is
a special blend of surfactants, emulsifiers, chelating agents and water
softeners.
Pre-Soak Towels
Micro fibre towels can
"load-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness. Don't let
polish residues dry in the fibres as dried hardened product can cause scratches
and product chemicals can negatively affect the fibres
Once you have finished
detailing with the towel, allow it to soak in a bucket with approx. 0.5 oz. per
gallon water and a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner P21S®®
Total Auto Wash. Or use Optimum Power Clean™ diluted 2:1 (or stronger)
with distilled water) or a micro fibre detergent (Micro-Restore).
This will make it easier to
clean and prolong the life of the towel as any chemicals that could potentially
harm the fibres are removed sooner, keep in mind that excessive use of powerful
degreasers may eventually damage the fabric. When you are ready to clean them,
rinse well, machine-wash and leave to air-dry
·
Wash / Rinse after using and before you use a different product
(i.e. don’t use to remove polish and then apply wax) to avoid cross
contamination
·
Always wash towels separately from other fabrics using hot water,
the primary consideration is detergent residue so always use a detergent that
is clean-rinsing
·
Wash drying towels separate from wax/polish towels
·
Washing your towels on a regular basis without allowing them get
too soiled, they will last much longer
·
Some detergents contain enzymes, which don't work well in cold
water.
·
Woolite® is intended for delicate
fabrics and fine washables such as lingerie and cashmere sweaters, so it
won’t remove polish or car care products
·
Soak towels in Sodium carbonate (also
known as washing soda or soda crystals) or Optimum
Power Clean™ as it effectively removes oil and grease
·
As a pre-spotter: dilute 1 part concentrates with 3 parts hot
water, apply to stain and launder as usual.
·
Do not overload washer or dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres
to weaken and lint
·
Waxes and polymer sealants are not water soluble; they dry and adhere
to the towels fibres. Cold water will simply allow them to remain in a solid
state and not completely wash off.
·
Hot water, however, allows them to soften and loosen from the threads
and allows the detergent to act as it should and lift the contaminants from the
fabric. Use medium heat, 104. oF (40.o C) and add 1-2 ounces
to a standard size (8 gallon) load, for larger loads or heavily soiled laundry
·
Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore
high efficiency (HE)
washer safe) without softener, bleach, whiteners.
·
If possible, buy the versions that are perfume and additive free
as all these do is chemically coat the fabric and reduce its efficiency.
·
Using half the washing detergents manufacturers suggested amount
is usually sufficient
·
During the rinse cycle add 1-tsb per towel white distilled
vinegar (acetic acid that once diluted with water, the acid content is
approximately 3-4% of the total solutions) this will help dissolve detergent
and hard water minerals. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH=2) works well in the rinse cycle
to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the opposite of
acidic on the pH scale).
When
you wash your towels (or anything for that matter) there are small amounts of
detergent left behind, when you add Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution
and helps removes the excess detergent from the wash.
·
Do not use fabric softeners (includes both liquid and dryer
sheet type fabric softeners) as they deposit chemicals (silicone, etc.) on
the fabric and render them ineffective. These chemicals will
also transfer to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.
·
Clean the lint screen before and after every wash session
Over time you may find your
micro fibre’s effectiveness decreases, despite following all of the above
guidelines, this may be due to wax / polish build-up. To remedy try one of the
following -
1.
Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash
again, except this time open the lid and let it soak overnight. In the morning,
close the lid and let the cycle finish.
2.
Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash
again, but instead of laundry detergent, add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the
load (assuming a medium to full size load). Run the cycle normally
3.
If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to
dissolve product and release the fibres. Drain the water before removing the
towel(s) otherwise residues will be re-deposited (melting point Polymer /
Polyester 490. °F (255. °C).
Stubborn dirt – soak overnight in a solution of hot water and P21S®® Total Auto Wash or
Optimum Power Clean ™) Be cognizant that towels do not have a finite life; at
some point the only remedy is replacement
Micro-Restore
- because most detergents and laundry soaps
have some form of optical fabric brighteners (Z)-Stilbene or fabric softener
included in their formulas. Over time bleach breaks down the micro-fibres, and
fabric softeners clog the microscopic pours that make microfiber so effective,
rendering the microfiber product less effective with each washing.
Micro-Restore is superior for
treating, cleaning and preparing microfibers because it is a powerful degreaser
strong detergent with the absence of bleach and fabric softeners, it also
breaks down heavy wax, oil and grease.
It will extend the life of
your microfiber, due to its special blend of chelating agents, surfactants, and
builders will more effectively remove the heavy residue (wax, oil, grease,
break dust, and other chemicals) that becomes implanted in microfiber products.
This product doesn’t contain any harsh chemicals that could be detrimental to
HE washing machines
Directions: Add 2 ounces to standard size (8 gallon) loads. For
larger loads or heavily soiled laundry, add 3-6 ounces. As a pre-spotter; us a
1:3 distilled water solution.
Towel Storage
I would recommend storing
clean / dry towels into a sealed dust-free environment whilst not in use.
Lidded plastic storage boxes are ideal in this respect like those
rubber/plastic ones with the snap on lids. You can also store clean / dry
towels in a Ziploc® Brand Storage Bag. Worth repeating store DRY towels only,
otherwise they will attract mould fungus
Debris Caught in Fibres
Micro fibre towels are
designed to hold onto various types of contaminants that can scratch a prized
car; they need to be inspected after each washing, especially if there is any
chance they might have been dropped or picked up some tree particles from the
car. You could try using a tack cloth to pick out small particulates from the
fibres. Even if your towels have never been dropped, if you wash them with
towels that have, debris is potentially inside the washing machine drum
Lint or Fibre Shedding
Quality
Microfiber towels are split to produce millions of tiny fibre “hooks" on
the surface of the towel. If the weave is too broad or the pile is too high,
some of these fibres break off when the towel is used. Fibre shedding can be
caused by a myriad of factors and it’s not an uncommon to experience, if a
towel starts to shed fibres excessively then there is a problem that should be
resolved
This
can be excessive if the manufacturer is trying to produce an inexpensive, split
towel and is using a wide weave to reduce the amount of Polyester / Polyamide
in the towel (the most common ration 70 /30%) Washing the towels before being
used will help alleviate problem lint, also clean the lint screen before and after every wash session (See “Washing / Care
Directions)
Do not overload washer or
dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres to weaken and lint, the mechanical
agitation of a tumble dryer may cause the fibres to weaken and cause them to
break free or lint. Given the above, over time towels will lint
Nothing will remove lint out
of a new towel better than a few spin cycles in the dryer. Washing also makes
your towels softer and more absorbent.
Remember to clean the lint
trap before and after each drying cycle. A good wash formula is 1 cup of white
vinegar with ½ cup of detergent. This will help release lint, break the towels
in, and keep them fresh.
It is also useful to soak new
towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will
dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another
good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with ½ of detergent. Keep in mind that
colour dyed towels, because of chemical penetration into the fibre, are less
absorbent than non-dyed towels.
Drying
Air dry or use low / medium
heat in a tumble dryer, adding two ‘Dryer Ball’ will help plump up the fibres,
when they are ‘almost’ dry remove and allow to air dry, shake and then fold
them for storage’ Some towels with bound edges are not suitable to be high heat
dried, typically those with satin or stitched edges as they tend to shrink,
pulling the towelling fabric
Notes:
1. Lint
or fibre shedding – a dryer ball (Life
Miracle® Dryer System™)
seem to help as they fluff up the fibres and lessen the static that is the main
cause of Microfibers trapping lint. Lint may also be trapped in the machine’s
lint screen and its being transferred to the towel.
2. For
problematic wax only towels - try using very cold water to make the solidified wax brittle, then wash
with hot again.
3. Mixing
Fabrics - Do not wash micro fibre
cloths / towels with other non- micro fibre fabrics, as they will pick up lint
from other fabrics. Air dry or you can dry micro fibre cloths / towels in any
dryer on low heat, remove them before they are still damp (cuts down on static
charge) Colours may bleed during first washing
4. Static
– to avoid static build-up remove towels
from machine while they are still a little damp and air-dry
5. Melting
point - of polyester 480 – 570.OF
(250-300°C) so hot drying will not harm its fibres
Fabric Softeners
Do not use fabric softener
(most contain silicone that the towel will adsorb and clog the fibres thereby
reducing their effectiveness) fabric softeners work by coating the surface of
the cloth fibres with a thin layer of chemicals, a towel will also treat the
fabric softener as if it was dirt by trying to store the tiny particles of the
softener in the towel fibres. This will clog up the fibres and render the towel
ineffective.
Add a teaspoon per towel
distilled white vinegar in place of a softener in the final rinse cycle, the
vinegar instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts
any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Do not use vinegar in every wash as
it is a cationic (hydrogen ions bind to the anionic groups on the fibres) the
disadvantage of coating fibres by hydrophobic layer is in decreasing the
absorption properties of the fabric.
Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) works well in the
rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the
opposite of acidic on the pH scale). When you wash your towels (or anything for
that matter) there are small amounts of detergent left behind, when you add
Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution and helps removes the excess
detergent from the wash.
Streaking or Non-Absorbent
·
This could be due to the polymers (silicone) used in quick
detailers (QD) or drying aid sprays, use vinegar in the final rinse
·
If a micro fibre towel tends to ‘streak’ or is no longer absorbent;
boil the towels in water / distilled white vinegar (1/4-cup / gal) solution for
at least 20 minute, this will soften the fibres, and release any wax / polish
residue. This will also release any lint, which will actually come to the
surface of the water.
·
Pre-soak in a liquid detergent / water and then squeeze out
wax/polish with your hands and rinse thoroughly.
·
Allow micro fibre towels to boil for twenty (20) minutes (ensure
that water does not fully evaporate) you will find that more wax / polish
residue comes out even after a towel has been thoroughly washed. Use something
to push the towels to the bottom of the pan before you empty out the water and
then remove the towel, don't do it the other way or you'll re-introduce residue
to the towel
The melting point of nylon
is ~ 493.oF (256 °C) so boiling 12. oF (100°C) will not
harm its fibres (however high heat may
affect the material used for binding the edges)
Micro-Restore is
the only detergent formulated for maintaining and restoring micro fibre, it’s a
concentrated detergent designed to clean, pamper and extend the life of micro
fibre cloths. With all of the polishes, waxes, oils and chemicals that we apply
and remove with our micro fibre cloths / towels, regular household detergent
doesn’t even come close to cleaning or restoring them.
It effectively removes dirt
without using the bleaches, fabric brightener and softeners commonly found in
laundry detergents (even when they say they don't there are small traces). Over
time bleach breaks down micro fibres, and fabric softeners clog the microscopic
fibres that make it so effective, rendering the micro fibre product less
effective with each washing.
Not only will Micro-Restore
extend the life of your micro fibre, but also its special blend of ingredients
has the power to break down most chemicals and heavy residues (wax, oil,
grease, break dust, and other chemicals) that become implanted in micro fibre
products when used in heavy cleaning situations like car care and remove them.
The water softeners in the
formula neutralize calcium and magnesium in hard water that cause towels to
stiffen over time. Micro-Restore is the ultimate cleaner for micro fibre
because it rids them of all products without ruining their structure, it is
also biodegradable
100% Cotton Micro Fibre Towels
In my opinion natural fibres
are far less likely to scratch than synthetic blends, flannel or cotton flannel
is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try
to stay with a terrycloth weave.
Most cotton drying towels
are not 100% cotton in reality, most use a polyester binding and thread that
could scratch paint. Some manufacturers chemically “sized” their towels to
appear fluffier and more attractive on the shelf, which leaves the towel
surface stiff and prone to causing scratches.
Once
this type of fabric is washed two or three times, to remove any short fibres it
will not leave a lint trail. The principal structural chemical in cotton, wood,
and most other plants is actually cellulose consisting of many small molecules
linked together (monomers) in a chain or lattice like structure; both linen and
cotton are natural plant fibres. Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with
cotton thread, not polyester.
Swisswax Waschpudel – woven from 100% cotton yarn, wash after each use in a washing machine at
a low temperature (40 °C) using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap
powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners). Hang up and
allow to dry naturally (avoid all sources of heat), and store in a dry,
dust-free environment whilst not in use
Zymöl
Buffing Towels and Swissvax Cleaner Towel are woven from 100% terry
cloth cotton, with no synthetic content; they are more absorbent and plusher
than most store brought cotton towels.
They feature a thick loft that naturally draws excess wax and particles up
and into the nap of the towel. They aren’t chemically fluffed (or
"sized"), making a naturally softer surface that won't cause
micro-abrasions or swirls.
Autoglym
Perfect Polishing Cloths - super soft 100% cotton, lightweight material, free of
synthetic fibres and with exactly the right degree of density and absorbency
for polishing fine surfaces. Any enthusiast demanding a perfect finish will
naturally wish to use the best tool for the job. Autoglym Perfect Polishing
Cloth is the perfect tool.
The smaller the diameter of
the yarn, the softer the fabric will feel, however this does not mean that its
non-abrasive and will not cause scratches (this softness can also be chemically
induced) The most important criteria for any fabric used on a vehicle surface
is its quality and scratch resistance. Natural cellulose can be spun with long
staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour,
were the loops are trimmed to produce a fine nap (ideal for glass cleaning).
Application -
tuck in ends to form a pad and hold in the palm of the hand. This will apply an
even pressure over the surface being polished. Change to a clean area of cloth
as you move to different sections of the vehicle to avoid smearing dirt from
one section to another
Egyptian cotton:
The term Egyptian cotton is usually applied to
the extra-long staple cotton, produced in Egypt and favoured for the luxury and
up market brands worldwide. Cotton in general has unique characteristics but
Egyptian cotton in particular is unique.
·
Length- Egyptian cotton is
long in fibre, which enables the making of the finest yarn without destroying
its strength.
·
Size
- 12-20 µ (micron); length varies from 0.5 - 2.5-inches
·
Strength
/ Durability- Egyptian cotton products are more resistant to stress and
therefore live longer.
·
Absorbency
/ Softness -
because Egyptian cotton has a very high ability to absorb liquids and is
extremely soft to the touch, it is widely used in the manufacturing of high end
household textiles.
·
Handpicked
- Egyptian cotton, being handpicked, puts no stress on the fibre,
and that is the reason why the products are more durable.
Prima Cotton
Theses
cotton towels are exceptionally soft, super absorbent terrycloth. The fabric is
woven from a blend of microfiber cotton and Pima Cotton; no artificial fibres
of any kind are used in the weaving or sewing of this product. But pay
attention to the edge bindings as they can be a potential cause of surface
scratches Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with cotton thread, not
polyester. (For more information on cotton) -
http://www.supima.com/faq/index.htm
100% Cotton vs. Micro fibre
Micro fibre –
(Microfiber) towels are made from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre) and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre) will remove product due to its inherent
properties.
The polyester and polyamide are
combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of
tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave.
Water, being hydrophilic also adheres to micro fibre. The nature of this yarn is
that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the
many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids.
100% cotton - this detailing towel is made entirely of a blend of
micro fibre cotton and pima cotton, 100% Cotton (50% Cotton /50% Pima Cotton)
Its scratch resistance has a lot to do with the way the fibres (12-20
µ (micron)); are processed and spun,
there are too many factors to be able to say conclusively that natural fibres
will not cause scratches and artificial fibres will. In my opinion, however,
natural fibres are far less likely to scratch, flannel or cotton flannel is a
very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to
stay with a terrycloth weave.
Regardless
of material type or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will
scratch, Micro fibre has attractant properties, that is dirt, dust, and various
other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so
well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using
towels on your paint
In my opinion, however,
natural fibres are far less likely to scratch than synthetic (nylon) blends,
flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats
down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.
Removing Wax / Sealants
Water, being hydrophilic
adheres to micro fibre; in comparison to cotton, a Micro (polyamide) fibre will
absorb 98% liquids and moisture, while cotton can only absorb 70% at most
The polyester and polyamide
content of Microfiber is typically; a blend of 80% polyester (a scrubbing
fibre) and 20% polyamide (an absorbing fibre). The nature of this yarn is that
it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many
thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate.
a) A
Microfiber towel made from polyester/polyamide will remove product due to its
inherent properties (that’s why they are so good at cleaning without the use of
chemicals). The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create
microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and
grime while trapping it within the weave.
These very fine fibres have
little 'hook like claws' that reach into the tiniest of crevices, pulling out
dirt, dust, grease, grime, and even bacteria. They hold these foreign materials
in their web of weaves until they are washed in warm water where the fibres
relax and release these materials.
Conversely the same
attributes that make Microfiber so good at cleaning have an adverse effect when
applying wax. A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond with the paint surface,
so when you remove it, you are removing excess product. An organic wax however,
doesn’t form a bond with the paint surface but merely adheres to it, forming a
chain-link type coating. A 100% micro fibre cotton towel will leave enough of
the wax behind to enable it to form a surface coating.
b) Cotton Towel - 100% cotton
micro fibre with terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven
into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that
makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing
and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.
I
would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was
informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as
the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals
we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive
comments are always appreciated.
Many thanks to Leo Cerruti DF Towels for his useful and informative posts on the Autopia Forum
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