Section
through finished leather - Diagram by Advanced Leather Solutions
Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care
Leather care has
always been a highly controversial subject.
The main reason for this is due to the lack of advancements in the
chemistry of products. The vast majority
consist of outdated products and techniques that were used 25 years ago. These products were the only chemicals and
methods available during that time period and were derived from products used
in other industries and applications.
This creates a great deal of confusion for the
consumer. Many of the products sold are
produced solely from the standpoint of making a sale. This has established a poor reputation within
the industry, and causes many people to conclude that it’s a waste of time and
money since these products do not work as expected.
Over the five
decades I've been involved with detailing the materials and production methods
that are used for automotive leather upholstery have changed; and we need to
adapt our product usage and application methodologies to change with them
My best advise;
research other options and products, test them and then make an objective
decision based upon factual information, not hype or brand loyalty. After all,
how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all
the facts? I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I
or anyone else shares with you.
Research
Correct information
regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or
simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles
leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information.
There is a great
deal of conflicting information on leather care
being put out by leather experts themselves who recommend the same
products and techniques be used regardless of the leathers finish or use
baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, Furniture,
Motorcycle, Equestrian and Automobile leather are all different type of leather
finishes and require different care. You do need to understand some of the
basic chemistry behind the tanning and be able to differentiate between the
various finishes applied to automotive leather in able to understand how to
renovate, clean or care for them, one size fits all is a vendor myth
All of which makes
it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Using the correct product
is important in order to protect your car’s interior. If you keep your cars’
interior clean, you can easily save your car for a good couple of years and it
can stay in a ‘like-new’ condition, and maintain a better re-sale value.
Cleanliness is one of the major things buyers look for when purchasing a
vehicle. There are several finished leather upholstery cleaners available,
which need to be used in accordance to the type of finished leather used in for
your vehicles upholstery.
That is why it is
imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to achieve,
you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable for your
requirements.
After various
meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and development
teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care product
manufacturers I've gained an understanding of this versatile material on both a
practical and scientific level.
It had always
confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so
complicated. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have
at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After
all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have
all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money
and your choice
Materials
Technology
Automotive
OEM technology is becoming more and more complex requiring educated and skilled
technicians to work on them. As the materials used are constantly changing we
must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and
application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies.
Automobile
manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is.
There are many so-called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom split (the
fibrous part of the hide) which are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating.
Diagnosis is the key,
not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to
ascertain the grade of leather and the type of leather finish applied.
Automotive leather
and finished leather surfaces have undergone major technological improvements
over the past decade. The leather used for automotive upholstery is finished
leather; the ‘finish’ applied to the leather hide is a pigmented (colour)
urethane protective layer and a clear abrasion resistant topcoat.
This type of
leather has an aqueous (water- based) urethane pigmented (coloured) coating,
think of it as a urethane paint applied
on top of the leather, and then a clear top coat is applied, o you are not
actually touching the leather. The coating gives the leather more durability
and protection. It is also much easier to clean. Finished leathers make up
almost all auto leathers. Just because leather has a top coat doesn't mean it
is any less desirable.
Be cognizant that the leather and finishes used for automotive upholstery
varies from leather industry standard descriptions and although the names are
similar the type of leather, pigmentation and finish are often very different. So it is very important to be able to
recognise the various finishes and materials used by OEM’s as they all require
different methodologies and products for proper care and maintenance.
One
size fits all' is a vendor propagated myth. If it’s
good enough for Rolls Royce and Ferrari leather it must be good enough for my
vehicles upholstery too - nothing could be further from the truth.
Automobile model ranges use different materials for their
vehicles interiors; leather upholstery like Aniline Immersion Dyed, Aniline
Micro Pigmented, (Urethane) Finished, Artificial leather such as MB-Tex and
unfinished materials like Synthetics and Alcantara, and sometimes combinations
of products (Alcantara seat inserts on leather seating) as well as various
grades of leather hide, full-grain, top-grain and split –grain (which is
protected with urethane) all of which require different products and
applications methods
Leather
Tanning Process
All cowhides are naturally oily, unfortunately, these natural
oils are stripped away in the tanning process, which is the process that
renders the hide invulnerable to decay and some equivalent oils must be
re-introduced after tanning. This last tanning step, the replacement of oils,
is called "fat liquoring." Over the centuries, a number of oils have
been found that have a natural affinity for leather fibres.
Every leather
tanner has his own, unique, blend of tanning oils. These formulas are closely
held secrets, passed down through generations; they are neither volatile nor
migratory, this is the origin of the new car ‘leather smell’. This is one
reason why one company's leather can have a totally different feel, fragrance,
texture and softness from another company's product (See
article “Fat Liquoring”)
Leather Hides
Raw hides have four
main parts - an epidermis, grain, corium and flesh
Two of these
layers, the epidermis (which
is a thin protective layer of cells during the life of an animal) and the flesh
are removed during tanning by a process called liming.
This leaves just
the grain and
the corium, the parts that are used for automotive leather
upholstery .The grain layer is made of collagen and elastin protein fibres and its
structure varies quite a bit depending on the age, breed and lifestyle of the
animal. The grain carries many distinctive marks such as insect bites, growth
marks and wound scars giving the leather a unique appearance.
The corium is
packed with collagen protein fibres, arranged in larger bundles and interwoven
to give the structure great strength, excellent elasticity and durability. In
the tanning process these fibres and impregnated with collagens that are
designed to hold them together and keep them supple. Much of the suppleness of
leather comes from its moisture content. After tanning the skin is protected
with a thin pigmented (colour) urethane and then a clear topcoat.
The thickness of
the corium increases with age which is why calfskins are thinner, smoother and
softer than the hides of mature animals. Hides from cows are smoother, thinner
and softer than the hides of mature male bull hides which are thick, tough,
course grained and very strong.
When corium fibres
lose moisture they shrink, when they are hydrated with water moisture they
swell. The best way to care for finished leather and to keep wrinkles to a
minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as
possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated only
requires a regular wipe down with a damp cotton towel
Proper surface care
Is all about
knowing the properties of the surface you want to treat and what product
contains the correct formulation of ingredients best suited for that surface.
Leather finishes
are a very chemically complex material, and if the product is incompatible with
it in any way, it can exert a damaging effect: finish peeling, finish cracking,
colour transfer ("crocking"), yellowing, and general degradation are
some of the problems that can be caused by the application of an improperly
formulated, incompatible leather treatment product.
The urethane used for finished leather is
classified as a semi-solid, micro structured membrane, therefore it is not
sealed per se, being a polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining
its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract to follow temperature
fluctuations (elongation) of the substrate. It also has micro-pores that allow transpiration
(evaporation and hydration) which is the the passage of water vapour through a
membrane or micro pore, they are not sealed per se.
Automobile Interior Environment
The interior
environment of an automobile can be extremely demanding on any material used.
Temperatures range from hot dry summer days, to freezing nights.
Both high and low
humidity, even air conditioning that cools, but also dries. Leather's greatest
enemies are; sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as
organic salts and acids) and body heat, which causes acids to become more
aggressive and alters the viscosity of oils, allowing them to permeate the
leathers finish, and ultra violet radiation (UV), which dries the hide, fades
the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the
fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.
Vehicle upholstery
leather must allow hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture);
otherwise it will become less supple and the finish will be subject to
cracking. Hydration is simply the
replacement of moisture and can be introduced via any perforated areas or
places where the leather is joined together with stitching. These punctures in
the surface coating are natural release areas where the leather begins to lose
its moisture, especially in hot / dry environments
Finished Leather
There is a great
deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather
experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another
marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer.
Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with
the leathers finish, not the hide itself.
The use of oils,
replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment
of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains
pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above. (See
the article “Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification”)
Most leather
surfaces in high-end vehicles such as Porsche, Ferrari, Bentley, Lamborghini, etc. require much different care than on other vehicles that
are main stream.
The quality of the
leather these vehicles are much finer and using harsh chemical to clean the
leather will prematurely wear the leather. Wearing down protective UV coating,
pulling out dye from the hide, and attracting more dirt due to oils in the
product, are just a few symptoms of using inferior products not intended for
this grade of leather.
Unless a Premium
Leather option was purchased finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM
in modern (post ’95) automobiles and virtually 100% of leather upholstery in
American and Asian-manufactured vehicles. Coated leather is a product where a
urethane surface coating is applied to the leather substrate.
Urethane
doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation
What is meant by ‘finished
leather?’
Finished leathers
make up almost all auto leather upholstery. It comprises a multi stratum
acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide;
the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant
urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather
and then a top coat is applied for protection (just like auto paint where a
clear coat is applied to protect the colour coat).
This type of finish
has an aqueous (water- based) resilient, clear thermoplastic urethane pigmented
(coloured) coating. Think of it as urethane paint applied on top of the
leather, and then a clear top coat is applied. The coating gives the leather more
durability and protection. It is also much easier to clean.
Urethane
Isocyanate based
ethyl carbamate CO (NH2) OC2H5 is a
thermoplastic polyurethane film that is impregnated with plasticizers; they
generally remain supple for quite a long time. When the plasticizers eventually
migrate into the atmosphere, there is nothing that can be done to re-soften
these materials. This type of finish is used for automobile finished leather
upholstery and is used by 95% as OEM in modern (post
1995) automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and
polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata
are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is
used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather.
Two or three
aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat are applied, and then finally a
clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied as the final stage of the
finishing process, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel
(patina) and abrasion resistance, as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to
assist in entering and exiting the vehicle
It also has micro-pores that allow
evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or
pore) they are not sealed per se. Oils are not compatible with water-based
pigmented urethane coatings and their molecules are too large to permeate, so
they remain on the surface to be removed by clothing
Water vapour easily
penetrates both non-coated and finished leather, which causes the collagen
fibres (fibres) to swell. This makes leather very soft, but be cognizant that
it will become highly prone to abrasion damage; it would be prudent to use a
cleaner that contains a surfactant that emulsifies contaminants to minimize the
need for abrasion.
Real leather has a recognizable
fragrance that is missing from polyurethane protected finished leather. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life
of finished leather; urethane doesn’t
require conditioning
or rejuvenation
Modern tanning and
coating processes leave leather dynamic and self-regulating with regard to the
moisture content therein. Repetitive heat cycling causes the leather to lose
moisture, resulting in the formation of creasing or surface cracks, which further
leads to the leather shrinking; however the urethane remains stable, which may
lead to delamination,
Surface
Protection
A leather protection product is essential as it will protect the
surface finish and makes dirt easier to clean off. The latest technology
leather upholstery does not make the
interior "maintenance free," as some car dealerships imply.
It does however extend the life of leather interiors,
significantly reduces wear on leather bolsters, seams, stitching etc at
entry/exit points in the vehicle. With leather, it is much easier to practice
prevention than it is to try to resolve major challenges after the fact
Protection is an essential element in leather care, inhibiting
abrasive dirt / grit, brought in from the outside via the A/C system and stains
from being absorbed. This water-based product is made for protecting leather
much like wax protects paint; by being a sacrificial barrier to contamination
and potential damage. Its primary purpose is to act as sacrificial barrier between
the leather surface and any soils that may settle on it, making maintenance
cleaning easier.
Proper
Leather Care
Basic 3- Step Leather Care
1. Clean
2.
Hydrated
3.
Protected
Many of the following statements are controversial and disagree
with popular leather care practices.
I've found that some leather care myths are deliberately
perpetuated by the industry, especially those on the use of oil based leather
conditioners and others are just common errors of judgment. Here is the inside
story that the manufacturers of leather care products don't want you to know.
While popularity
can sometimes be a reliable barometer, it isn't always the correct choice for
choosing leather care products. Some even make their decision based on new
car’s leather fragrance alone.
My best advise; research other options and products, test
them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information, not
hype or brand loyalty.
The most important
consideration in leather care is to identify the finish of leather used. Once
you've correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable
to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods
(one size fits all is just a
vendor's marketing myth)
First you need to
identify the material and finishes used; Aniline dyed or Pigmented, Protected or Coated, Alcantara®,
Synthetic or Vinyl; BMW and Mercedes Benz use all of these leather finishes for their
model range and in some instances a combination. Different types of leather
require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different
process.
Using an incorrect
product could damage the finish; check your 'leather type' before attempting to
clean or apply any products to its surface.
Finish leather Cleaning / Care
Identifying characteristics
- this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.
The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will
‘bead’ on the surface
Absorbency rate –Extremely low
Most all purpose cleaners (APC) contain caustic soda or caustic
potash, theses chemicals are also used in paint removers, so at high enough
concentration, they will damage uncoated or finished leather. It would be
diligent to use products specifically formulated to treat finished leather that
contain special cleaners that remove oxidation, grime and acidic body oils,
while maintaining the flexibility of the finish so that it remains supple, not
dry and brittle.
(a) Clean - with coated leather, you are mainly dealing with urethane or
similar top coat. This protective layer makes your leather seats more resilient
to scratches, water and heat damage as well as other types of wear and tear,
so, once that layer is worn thin, your seats are more susceptible to all types
of damage. As dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear, oil
combines with little bits of dust and dirt, acting like a fine sand paper that
wears down the protective coating on your seats as you and your passengers get
in and out of the vehicle.
It’s prudent to use
a surfactant system that emulsifies contaminants to minimize the need for
abrasion. As we see it more clearly on a clear coat finish, abrasion will leave
micro marring in the coating which creates more surface area for contaminants
to bond with.
Use aqueous (water-
based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated
seats. Foam encapsulates the dirt so that it can then be wiped away; allow the
foam to dwell to ensure the chemicals have time to work. For ingrained soil the
best results when cleaning the leather is to use a medium soft bristled brush
to agitate the cleaner, this ensures a thorough cleaning.
Avoid the use
of abrasive cleaners or all purpose cleaners (APC) as they may compromise the
leathers urethane finish
Maintenance Cleaning -
Leather Master™ Cleaner Wipes - cleans most common dirt and stains. Soft Cleaner
contains a delicate detergent that can be used on your leather whatever its
finish; suitable for all types of leather except Nubuck and Alcantara.
Perforated
leather seating surfaces – for heated seats it’s important not to allow too much
moisture to permeate the surface. Using a Swisswax (or similar) detailing brush
and a diluted solution of Leather
Master™ Strong Cleaner (dependant on how soiled the
surfaces are) in a spray bottle ( spraying the
brush, not the seating surfaces)
using a light spray of the solution, brush using moderate pressure in a circular
motion and then wipe with a damp micro fibre towel.
Removal
of accumulated soiling and layers of aged products –usually
causes a shiny surface, the
accumulation of dirt and old care products that
become abrasive when mixed and polishes the leather each time a person slides across
the seating surface.
To restore the surface to its original matte finish; clean
finished leather surfaces using Iz einszett
'Plastik-Reiniger' an intensive,
non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for urethane covered
upholstery or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner
or Optimum Power Clean ™ for aniline leather,
which can be diluted with distilled water to the
required strength; do not apply any liquid cleaning product directly to the
surface of finished leather, as it may ‘spot’ clean, leaving a lighter colour.
Apply cleaning
products to a folded 100% cotton towel and then apply to the surface using
light / medium pressure. Use a medium hard brush to permeate the grain,
stitching and seams.
Removal of grease stains
use - Leather Masters™ Leather Degreaser (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is
ideal for cleaning this type of stain as it dissolves the oils and transforms
them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather. This powder is what
is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to
dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are
still a lot of oils in the leather.
Using a Medium /
hard horse hair brush, or a soft sponge, spray and work the cleaner into a
foam, lightly scrub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove
excess moisture, especially around stitching (you may need to repeat this
process).
Removal of Paint stains - emulsion (latex) paint is relatively easy to remove by
using a steam cleaner to emulsify the paint, it can then be wiped away.
Oil-based paint
contains solvents, which allow it to ‘key’ to the surface
·
Do not rub or use pressure on the affected area. Pat with a dry
rag to gently wipe the paint away if the stain is very fresh.
·
Try to loosen the paint with a warm water compress using a 100%
cotton micro fibre towel. This should soften the paint and loosen its grip on
the leather so that you can gently peel it away.
·
Clear away any excess paint by abrading the surface of dried paint with a plastic
(ScrapeRite blades) or single-sided razor blade
·
Do not use paint thinner as it will cause the paint to migrate and ‘bleed’
producing a larger stain
a) Use Leather
Master™ Strong Cleaner with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel to wipe
the paint off the affected area. Use a 100% cotton micro fibre towel soaked in
distilled water to remove the soap. Pad gently with a dry 100% cotton micro
fibre towel
b) Or use a
‘safe’ solvent (Cliptone GT14 Safety Solvent Cleaner) on a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel pat, this will break up the compounds of the paint,
and make it easier to wipe off. Do not rub affected area otherwise it will thin
out and may spread the paint.
·
Use Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) on a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel, this is also recommended if the stain is fresh.
Gently spread (do not rub or use pressure) the on the stain. Wait for a few minutes, and then gently pad the spot
lightly with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel
Grey
Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush
For
extremely soiled finished leather - use a Griot's 3- inch
random orbital polisher and a
random orbital brush attachment. Grey Ultra
Soft Upholstery Brush - this brush is designed for
delicate carpet and upholstery. Each bristle is split in to multiple fine tips
(fits Porter Cable 7424, Griot's Random
Orbital Polishers as well as the Cyclo, all have a
5/16", 24 thread shaft / spindle diameter.
The brush has a
connector (5/16-inch UNF 24 thread) which screws directly into listed orbital
polishers. To attach these brushes to your Porter Cable 7424 or Griot's Garage
6 Inch Random Orbital Polisher, remove the backing plate using the wrench
included with the machines.
Screw the brushes
into the machine and tighten thoroughly. Use with 1z einszett Vinyl
Deep Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) or Leather Master™
Strong Cleaner, using very little applied pressure. Apply product to a 100%
cotton towel (do not apply direct to the surface as it may ‘spot’ clean)
starting from the top of the seating surface work down. Using the orbital and
the correct brush attachment, using little to no pressure at speed # 3-4, work
the cleaner into the surface.
Once surface is clean, use a clean, damp 100%
cotton towel to remove residue (do not
over wet surfaces)
(b) Hydration – s simply the
replenishment of lost moisture, finished leather will absorb water vapour but
it doesn't readily absorb liquid, so rain will not harm it and a damp cloth can
be used to keep it clean. A leather hide consists of Water 60-65%, Protein
25-30% and Fats 5-10%. As water molecules are smaller than the ones used in the
polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is
essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility
and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with
softness and strength.
Repetitive heat
cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of
creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however
the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.
A regular wipe down
with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or
hydrate finished leather, and by using
aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check
the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a
regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent.
Monthly hydration
of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and
etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
(c) Patina (softness
or hand) - used to ensure the
finished leather remains soft and supple; Leather Master™
Soft Touch (ex Vital) - this is not a conditioner per se; it contains polymers in an aqueous
emulsion and is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by
rehydration and to ensure the leather remains matte, soft and supple. It can
also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area being worked on and
to dilute some of the pigments, helping them to permeate.
Allow product to
dry for approx one hour
Recommend usage
6-12 times a year or as required. Apply a small amount to dry 100% cotton micro
fibre towel, allow product to remain for 20-30 minutes and then wipe surface with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel.
For revitalizing older leathers and also to improve the feel of
stiff leathers it’s better to apply several thin layers than a heavy
application and to gently massage it into the surface. It sometimes helps to
apply a gentle heat (hair dryer, infra red lamp) to the surfaces, or by leaving
the vehicle to benefit from the suns radiation for an hour or so
(d) Protection
- is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather
Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning
the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the
protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off and provides some ‘insurance
against stains. This does not mean that cleaning becomes unnecessary, but it
will be more effective and cleaning products can be less aggressive and still
achieve good results.
Leather Protection
will also work to remove small surface scratches on finished leathers. In
general, Leather Protection Cream is used as a final step in combination with
most of the Leather Master products.
Leather
Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers
penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable
protective film that is breathable, allowing transpiration and keeps the
leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective
sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and
perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer
Ultra violet (UV)
protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant - is water based and will
provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading) protection;
especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn’t contain
silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean
surface (it contain only very minimal cleaning agents)
It will
not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of
moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine
coating; it will not seal it per se.
Note:
this product does NOT air dry. Use a
second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases
bonding, repellency and durability
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat
liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for
finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate
the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of
modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.
Modern automotive
leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing
advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or
rejuvenation) and as a
consequence they do not need to be
treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins. To their
benefit, they can leave the urethane finished leather feeling nice and supple,
but they cannot permeate and provide the necessary hydration
The ‘ perfect’
solution; is a water based formulation; water molecules are smaller than the
ones used in the polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate through in vapour
form, deep into the leather hide. Something that is essential to restore the
suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility. And being water based
also allows the leather surface to breathe; alleviating all the drying
properties oils and other sealing products can create.
Oils and soft
plastics (polymers, acrylics and urethanes) are not compatible; repeated
application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking
and binding agents.
Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time, along
with abrasion that break down the binder system of the pigmented (polymer)
coating and the leather will begin to deteriorate, so it is crucial to stop
this from happening, which can be done with regular cleaning and a protection
product applied to the surface.
If used on a
regular basis they can damage the top coat of the leather. Most actually do the
opposite of what they claim, by damaging the coating, and making it vulnerable
to accelerated wear and even de-laminating. So it initially feels nice and soft
on the outside, but it is being killed by the products permeating into the
coating and disrupting the structure
As
the materials used are constantly changing we must maintain our knowledge base
and utilize the correct products and application methodologies to keep up with
emerging technologies.
It
is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes and materials
used as they all require different methodologies and products for proper care
and maintenance.
Note: Apply all finished
leather care products with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel
Leather
pH
The pH value of
leather is purely academic and of little, if any value with regard to its care.
Leather is very different from fabric and its cleaning and care is very
different, specific water-based products have been formulated, which have the
correct pH values for the job they are designed for. If for some reason you
consider using a non-specific leather care product ensure that its pH value is
neither too acidic nor too alkaline
The key to
maintaining the original look and feel of your car's leather interior is
learning which type of leather finish you have and using the leather care
product made for that type of leather. When you use the correct combination,
maintenance is simple and you'll get to enjoy your leather for many years.
Always keep in mind
that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the
leather hide itself
