Sunday 30 July 2017

Water Filtration Methods

CR Spotless Mobile Units

a) Distilled water - is actually boiled in a still and the condensate collected and distributed. Distillation removes both ionic and non-ionic organic contaminants.

b) Deionized (DI) - is water that has been passed through a column or membrane to remove ions present. If it is of the type used in homes, it is not truly a de-ionizer, removing all ions, but rather an ion exchange column that exchanges polyvalent ions such as magnesium (Mg2+) ++ and calcium ( Ca2+) ++ for Na+ ions. A de-ionizing column will not remove non-ionic organic substances from the water. De-ionized (DI) DI water is achieved by filling a cylinder with DI resin and connected it to a mains hard supply.

The DI resin will strip out all the minerals and impurities from the water leaving the water completely clean and 99.9% pure and is also very aggressive and mildly corrosive. It is therefore, excellent for cleaning most surfaces without the use of detergents. It is used / to wash windows and the static on the glass will be broken and therefore dirt would be less attracted - there is also no need for the use of detergents on the glass.

c) Reverse Osmosis (RO) –is produced by forcing the solvent (water) through an ultra fine membrane (filter) under pressure (leaving the ion in the water behind) the water system inlet takes water to a pre-cleaner sediment filter, then it is passed through a membrane, which captures the minerals and has to be flushed constantly to wash the minerals from the membrane, and then on to the water outlet to drain. Chlorine will damage the membranes over time, and will eventually "by-pass" the membrane, producing a mildly acidic solution. It requires up to 10-15 gallons producing 1-gallon of pure water.

The RO system is slow and not very energy efficient due to its water requirements as opposed to its output of pure water (i.e. 1500 raw water to produce 100 gallons RO water) Reverse Osmosis water is 98% pure and 'made' by passing softened water through the RO system via a membrane. Most domestic RO systems will typically waste 12 litres of water for every litre of pure water it produces.

RO water is very aggressive and mildly corrosive - this is why it is excellent for cleaning, even without detergents. It is 'produced by passing softened water through the RO system via a membrane. In the colder winter months (or anytime really where the temperature drops below 15 degrees), the water wasted will typically increase to nearly double the summer wastage. This is because the membrane shrinks in the winter cold water, and more water runs to drain. It should be noted that RO water is, only 98% pure, which means it is not pure enough to be streak-free or immune from causing water spots. The only way would be to pass the RO water through a DI vessel which would make it 99.9% pure and will perform the final 'polish' of the water

d) Alkaline removal - by anion exchange resins is accomplished by the exchange of chloride for bicarbonate and carbonate alkalinity, thus the finished water is enriched with chlorides. Exhausted resin is regenerated with sodium chloride, much like a water softener

e) Adding Optimum No Rinse - if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates, some of the polymers will bind to these minerals and take them out of solution, therefore, more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. Adding Optimum No Rinse (ONR) to a regular car wash soap will improve the results when using tap water (0.5 oz/gallon) always add it to the water to remove the minerals before adding your soap. This will maximize the benefits of using No Rinse in this manner.

f) Water Softener - whether your water supply consists of hard or soft water is determined by the geology of the ground that the rain in your region falls upon. Pure rainwater is naturally soft, but the chalk and limestone regions surrender calcium and magnesium into the natural water supply to create hard water. Areas that contain granite do not contain the same minerals and so the water remains ‘soft’.
Calcium carbonate is a chemical compound with the formula CaCO3 is usually the principal cause of hard water. As hard water is heated the Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) separate out and form a crust on surfaces they come into contact with. This is what we know as lime scale.

Water softening is not a complete ion exchange process; but rather a reduction of the concentration of calcium, magnesium, and certain other metal cations in hard water. The water to be treated passes through a bed of the resin. Negatively-charged resins absorb and bind metal ions, which are positively charged

Salt does not directly soften water; salt is only used to regenerate water softeners. The salt creates a brine, which flushes the resin bed in the water softener to restore the equivalent sodium ions. The process is called ion exchange, which uses an ion exchange resin. The resin comprises tiny polymeric beads which are specially formulated so that they can be charged with certain ions.

The sodium (Na) or potassium chloride (KCl) a metal halide salt,  performs an ion exchange with the hardness metals (calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), etc), so basically the hardness metals are replaced with Sodium Chloride (NaC1)  The "harder" the water, the more hydrogen (H2), sodium or potassium ions are released from the resin and into the water.

The increase in Sodium (salt) levels in the water can be significant, especially when treating very hard water; therefore a water softener would be somewhat of a compromise when it comes to vehicle washing. The increase in Sodium (salt) levels in the water can be significant, especially when treating very hard water; 
therefore a water softener would be somewhat of a compromise when it comes to vehicle washing A water softener does not remove all the minerals that are responsible for ‘water spotting’, it also tends to strip wax by increasing the effectiveness of detergents. 

Water softeners remove those ions by exchanging them for sodium or potassium ions. This makes soap molecules difficult to remove by simple dilution; potentially leaving a surface coating of insoluble stearates, which leaves a soap film on the paint surface

 The only way to get truly "clean" water is distilled or de-ionized water; but the increase in sodium (salt) levels in the water can be significant, especially when treating very hard water; therefore a water softener would be somewhat of a compromise when it comes to vehicle washing

Griot’s Garage In-Line Water Softener & Deionizer - this inline filter removes minerals from tap water to end water spots. Now it's possible to rinse the car and dry it off without the worry of my glass and paint spots before you can get to it. Simply attach to your hose spigot; the green crystals change to purple, indicating when it's time to replace the filter. Measures 13 x 4.25 - inch diameter, fittings included (130 USD) Replacement In-Line Water Filter (110 USD) How long do refills last?  TDS Level – 300, expected Yield in Gallons 66 (further details on their website)

Clear Inline Hose Filter Canister - is a compact unit that attaches directly to your Inline hose and removes unwanted minerals and sediment as the water passes through. Minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium, are what constitutes “hard water”. Hard water is responsible for water spots, poor-lathering shampoo, and that green ring around your bathtub. The calcium and magnesium actually harden inside pipes (called “scale”) and on other surfaces, including your vehicle.

When you rinse with hard water, you could be dousing your vehicle with hard mineral deposits. The only way to prevent hard water deposits is with a water softener. The Clear Inline Hose Filter Canister can be fitted with either a water softener or a filter cartridge to give you clean, clear water for washing your vehicle. Clean Water Filter Kit (95 USD) Filter Combo (both filter cartridges) - GPW-FC2 (27 USD)

CR Spotless - the DIC-10 provides approximately 100 gallons, the DIC-20 provides approximately 300 gallons of mineral-free, de-ionized water that will provide spot-free vehicle washing and remove hard water minerals, based on your water input quality. It consists of two de-ionization housings that feature replaceable cartridges that simply slide into the watertight tubes.
This unit can be mounted next to your hose bib and comes with pre-drilled mounting holes. Using a pressure washer allows you to detail a car while using significantly less water, maximizing the life of your system (DIC-10 Medium Output Rolling System – 400 USD)

Connecting a CR Spotless unit to a Water Softener; you've still got the same total dissolved solids (TDS) going into the CR unit with softened water and with tap water. Now you’ve simply exchanged hard (tap) water with a solution of sodium (what is basically salt water)
Hard water contains excessive amounts of minerals, calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+). These minerals when dried leave behind hardened deposits that appear as spots (hence ‘water spotting)

1. CR Spotless - water is passed through a column or membrane to remove ions present (ion exchange) using polyvalent ions such as magnesium (Mg2+) ++ and calcium (Ca2+) ++ for Na+ ions. Deionised resin strips out all the minerals and impurities from the water by exchanging Ca and Mg ions for H and OH, the resultant H20 is completely clean and 99.9% pure
2. Water Softener – is an ion exchange process, the minerals ions are exchanged with sodium ions. The water to be treated passes through a bed of the resin; negatively-charged resins absorb and bind metal ions, which are positively charged. The resins initially contain a divalent (single) hydrogen, sodium or potassium ions, which exchange with divalent calcium and magnesium ions in the water. The "harder" the water, the more hydrogen, sodium or potassium ions are released from the resin and into the water. Once water is softened it results in an alkaline sodium solution.
Both the above systems remove minerals from the water, but they use differing methods.

Rust / Sediment Filter Unit
Remove Ferric (rust or dissolved) Iron
One of the most common contaminants of well water and even municipal water systems is iron. Iron contamination can be found in two general forms, ferric iron which consists of particles of solid iron (rust) that can be removed by mechanical water filters (sediment filters), and ferrous or dissolved iron which must be removed from water by special iron water filters.

Next to hardness, the presence of iron is probably the most common water problem faced by consumers and water treatment professionals. The secondary (aesthetic) maximum contaminant levels (MCL) for iron and manganese are 0.3 ppm (milligrams per litre (mg/l) and 0.05 ppm, respectively. Iron and manganese in excess of the suggested maximum contaminant levels (MCL) usually result in discoloured water. In addition to causing an unpleasant metallic taste, particulates in your particulates in your drinking and household water can cause unsightly staining of plumbing fixtures and laundry. A water softener is capable of removing iron from water up to 0.5 ppm of iron

If your iron content is no more than 3ppm it can be removed with an iron reduction filter cartridge, which effectively removes iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg smell) from municipal or well water.  The iron content of 5 ppm iron (or about 2 ppm hydrogen sulphide) requires a better filtration system.
An Iron Removal Filter Cartridge contains manganese greensand, the same media employed in many expensive iron water filtration systems, however, it is packaged in a standard 20-inch filter housing that any homeowner can manage and maintain. When the dissolved iron comes in contact with the manganese greensand media, it is rapidly oxidized, turning the ferrous iron into a ferric form which is then mechanically filtered and removed from the water.

When the iron water filter has reached the end of its service life, it is simply replaced with a new cartridge - there is no media to regenerate, no backwashing, no chemicals to worry about, etc.
These units are often used as a pre-filter for a Water softener,  Power Washer or a CRSpotless DI system

A Brief History of Leather


Primitive people, who lived during the Ice Age some 500,000 years ago, were likely the first to use the skins of animals to protect their bodies from the elements. Just as leather today is a byproduct, our ancient ancestor’s hunted animals primarily for food, but once they had eaten the meat, they would clean the skin by scraping off the flesh and then sling it over their shoulders as a crude form of a coat. They also made footwear to protect their bare feet from rocks and thorns by taking smaller pieces of animal skin made to fit loosely over the foot and tied at the ankle with thin strips of skin or even vines.

The main problem that primitive man encountered was that after a relatively short time the skins decayed and rotted away. With his limited knowledge and experience, primitive man had no idea how to preserve these hides. As centuries passed it was noticed that several things could slow down the decay of leather. If the skins were stretched out and allowed to dry in the sun, it made them stiff and hard but they lasted much longer. Various oily substances were then rubbed into the skins to soften them. As time passed, it was eventually discovered that the bark of certain trees contained "tannin" or tannic acid which could be used to convert raw skins into what we recognize today as leather.
It is quite hard to substantiate chronologically at exactly what time this tanning method materialized, but the famous "Iceman" dating from at least 5,000 BC discovered in the Italian Alps several years ago, was clothed in very durable leather. 

Taking a look at the system and tools that were once used to work leather. We immediately discover that from Palaeolithic times, almost to the present day, the processes and tools remained almost unchanged, gaining only in efficiency and comfort
Leather tanning is without a doubt one of the oldest human activities.  In the beginning, skins obtained from hunting and livestock breeding could be used for clothing or tents, but they became stiff at low temperatures, while they rotted with heat.  It was probably then that attempts were made to render them more flexible and stronger by rubbing in animal fats, the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian texts and in Homers Iliad.

 Another process was smoking, which almost certainly started by accident, and which later became formaldehyde tanning, as this substance is found in the vapours produced by burning green leaves and branches. It was soon discovered that the rotting process could also be stopped by drying, carried out by exposure to the sun or by the dehydrating action of salt. Vegetable tanning was also known in very ancient times although it is not clear how the tanning action of the tannin contained in the bark of some plants (especially oak) was discovered. Another method known since the earliest times is tanning, based on the use of alum, a mineral which is fairly widespread in nature, particularly in volcanic areas.  

These methods, which gradually became more refined and efficient, allowed skins to be used in the ancient world and continued to do so for century after century up to the present day.  That the use of these techniques was widespread is witnessed by numerous written documents and paintings as well as archaeological finds.  In Mesopotamia between the fifth and the third millennium B.C., for example, the Sumerians used skins for long dresses and diadems for ladies. The Assyrians used leather for footwear but also for liquid containers and as inflated floats for rafts.  The ancient Indian civilization first processed the type of leather known as the "Morocco" today.
In recorded history, pieces of leather dating from 1300 B.C. have been found in Egypt. Primitive societies in Europe, Asia, and North America all developed the technique of turning skins into leather goods independently of one another. The Greeks were using leather garments in the age of the Homeric heroes (circa 1200 B.C.) and the use of leather later spread throughout the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages, the Chinese knew the art of making leather.

North American Indians - also had developed great skills in leather work, they took the ashes from their campfires, put water on them and soaked the skins in this solution. In a few weeks, the hair and bits of flesh came off, leaving only the raw hide. This tanning method, which used a solution of hemlock and oak bark, took about three months to complete after which the leather was worked by hand to make the hide soft and pliable.

The Making of Leather
The tanning of leather was used by mankind in numerous geographical areas throughout the early periods of human civilization; the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian texts and in Homers Iliad. As certain leather characteristics began to emerge, men realized leather could be used for many purposes besides footwear and clothing. The uses and importance of leather increased greatly. For example, it was discovered that water would keep fresh and cool in a leather bag. It was also found suitable for such other items as tents, beds, rugs, carpet, armour, and harnesses.

An early Nubian pre-dynastic grave has revealed a leather vessel at the head of the occupant where a pottery one would normally be expected.

Ancient Egypt - one of the most developed civilizations in this early period, valued leather as an important item of trade. The Egyptians made leather, the historian, Strabo, tells of an interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from it. They also made sandals, belts, bags, shields, harness, cushions and chair seats from tanned skins. Many of these items are in fact still made from leather today. The Egyptians also achieved considerable skill in processing leather, which they used for clothing (even for gloves), tools, and arms or simply for ornament.  The historian, Strabo, tells of an interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from it.  During Roman times, leather was widely used in all the provinces of the empire, and more efficient tanning techniques were introduced where they had not been developed locally.

The Hittites - one of the oldest civilizations in Anatolia, which is known as the leather production centre since the very old times, developed the art of tannery with aluminium during their civilization's brightest period between the years 2000-1200 B.C. These lands were rich in aluminium compounds and vegetal dressing pelts, and that made it possible for the tannery process to be completed under perfect conditions. During the excavations in Bogazkoy and Alisar, leather pieces were found in a boy's grave belongs to the year 2800 B.C. The Hittites used gallnut and alum as dressing pelts in leather works.

Greeks and Romans - used leather to make many different styles of sandals, boots, and shoes, when the Roman legions marched in conquest across Europe, they were well attired in leather by wetting the leather and forming it to the warrior’s body forming armour and leather capes. In fact, right up until the early 18th century, the shield carried by the ordinary soldier was more likely to be made of leather than metal.

The ancient Greeks refer to eight basic guilds of artisans, which included both shoemakers and tanners. Although tanning was originally a cottage trade, the Greeks had full-time professional tanners who were at first employed in leather processing establishments and became independent sometime later. The barks of conifers and alders were used as tannin sources and so was the peel of the pomegranate, sumac leaves, walnut, cups of acorns as well as an Egyptian heritage - mimosa bark.

The Greeks were also familiar with alum tanning and it appears they knew something about tanning with fish oil. The types of leathers used were as diversified as the end users. Homer refers to the use of cowhide, goat and weasel leather by the Greeks.

A tannery was uncovered amid the ruins of Pompeii and the same equipment of the kind still in use for centuries thereafter was found in it. The edict issued by the Roman Emperor Diocletian which fixed ceiling prices for all kinds of goods and services included skins and leather prepared from goats, sheep, lambs, hyenas, deer, wild sheep, wolves, martens, beaver, bears, jackals, seals, leopards and lions. Under the edict, cowhide was even classified according to groups and qualities. The Romans used leather both for footwear and clothing and for making shields and harnesses.  A complete tannery in the famous ash-preserved ruins of Pompeii was unearthed in 1873.

In the 8th century Spain, then under the dominion of the Moors, we have the development of the production of "Cordovan", thanks to important progress in tanning, a type of leather famous throughout Europe for centuries. That skill in leather tanning was not a prerogative of the western world as recounted by Marco Polo. In his "Travels" tells us that the Mongols used leather flasks, covers, masks, and caps, decorated artistically, and it was him who coined the expression "Russia Leather" to indicate a type with a characteristic fragrance.  

 A considerable improvement in processing techniques occurred in the 12th century with the result being that between then and the last century, there were no substantial changes to tanning systems.  Even oil tanning was used to produce protective garments while tawing was widespread although the results were not always satisfactory. Often, finishing operations were carried out to improve the malleability of the leather and improve its appearance, especially by dyeing.  The products, though essentially practical, also met decorative requirements.

 Middle Ages
As we move into the middle ages, leather continued to increase in popularity. By far the cleverest craftsmen with leather in medieval times were the Arabs. The Moors developed remarkable skill primarily in the preparation of beautiful goatskin still known as Morocco leather after the country of its origin. In fact, the description 'genuine Morocco' is still very highly regarded today, particularly in the manufacture of small leather goods.

Medieval England - ancient Britons had many uses for leather from footwear, clothing and leather bags, to articles of warfare. The hulls of the early boats, known as coracles, were also covered in leather. Through the centuries leather manufacturer expanded steadily and by medieval times most towns and villages had a tannery, situated on the local stream or river, which they used as a source of water for processing and as a source of power for their water wheel driven machines

All kinds of containers were made from leather, such as sword cases and dagger sheaths, box coverings and water bottles, many of them beautifully decorated by punching and incising. Leather was also a favourite medium for decorative art. Leather was used to cover books. In those days, when the horse was the principal means of transport, saddler and harness making were important uses of leather.

Britain has been the home of leather vessels for longer and in higher numbers than anywhere else in history and their existence has become quintessentially British. In the fourteenth century, for instance, leather was being used in combination with wood in chairs, arm-chairs, and settles with craftsmanship that reached the levels of an art-form.  This was also the case later on with tapestries (especially in Venice in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries) with chests and cases, and of course, with book bindings, perhaps the most lasting and refined use of the material.  Going back to tanning techniques, it is more or less in the Middle Ages that the depilating action of quick lime was discovered, a technique which is still valid and normally used today.

 A radical shake-up was provided in the middle of the last century with the discovery of the tanning power of chrome salts which led to a drastic improvement in production and was applied in practice in industrial production towards the end of the century.  Another revolutionary element was the substitution of the tanning pit with the rotating drum, along with the discovery of new types of tannins.

The Black Jack`s name is derived from the materials used in its construction. Leather that has been soaked in hot water and dried is known as Jack leather. The same source can be attributed to the name for German Jackboots and Medieval Arming Jacks. This is also the origin of the modern word for a jacket. Jacks were originally black because the black material used to line the inside was used on the outside of the vessel thus colouring it.

In the early 1900s, the brown leather flight jackets worn by aviators and members of the military, commonly called "bomber jackets", were prized for their comfort and durability. The jacket was often part of an overall uniform ensemble meant to protect fliers from exposure to the extreme climate conditions found at high altitude and sometimes incorporated sheepskin, using the intact fleece on the inside for warmth.

Modern Day
Until the later part of the 19th century, there were relatively few changes in the methods used to produce leather. In fact, the process had changed very little in over 200 years. However, the industrial revolution did not bypass tanning - one of the oldest and most basic forms of manufacturing. Science was quickly introduced to the art and craft of leather making. As a result of all these innovations, the time required for tanning was shortened incredibly from eight months to a year, to a period of a few days today.

A wider range of dyestuffs, synthetic tanning agents and oils were introduced. Together with precision machinery, these changes and continued innovations to the present day have combined to make tanning into a viable, modern manufacturing industry.



Todays Auto leather
The leather used in the automobile is coated to provide durability, abrasion resistance,
and ultra violet protection. The hides have pigmentation added to provide a uniform colour (you didn’t think there are red cows dis you?) Aniline leather which has received a surface coating containing a small amount of pigment in the base coat, this surface coating helps impart greater stain resistance. The increased durability is provided by the application of a light surface coating which contains both pigment (colour) and an anti-abrasion additive, this ensures consistent colour, imparts some stain resistance and helps with the abrasion of entering and exiting the vehicle

Friday 28 July 2017

Leather care Products


Leather care has always been a highly controversial subject.  The main reason for this is due to the lack of advancements in the chemistry of products.  The vast majority consist of outdated products and techniques that were used 25 years ago.  These products were the only chemicals and methods available during that time period and were derived from products used in other industries and applications.
  
 This creates a great deal of confusion for the consumer.  Many of the products sold are produced solely from the standpoint of making a sale.  This has established a poor reputation within the industry and causes many people to conclude that it’s a waste of time and money since these products do not work as expected.  

Over the five decades I've been involved with detailing the materials and production methods that are used for automotive leather upholstery have changed; we need to adapt our product usage and application methodologies to change with them

Research
Information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information. 

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. It had always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated.

That is why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable for your requirements.

After various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material on both a practical and scientific level.

I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice

Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather, not with the leather hide itself

For many, finding the best leather care product is as simple as using what is the most popular. While popularity can sometimes be a reliable barometer, it isn’t always the correct choice. Some even make their decision based on new car’s leather fragrance alone.

My best advice; research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information, not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

Materials Technology

Automotive OEM technology is becoming more and more complex requiring educated and skilled technicians to work on them. As the materials used are constantly changing we must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies.

Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. There are many so-called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom split (the fibrous part of the hide) which are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain the grade of leather and the type of leather finish applied
Be cognizant that the leather and finishes used for automotive upholstery vary from leather industry standard descriptions and although the names are similar the type of leather, pigmentation and finish are often very different.

The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) is a Reference Guide for Professional Upholstery Cleaning (IICRC S300) it’s a five-day leather training course, which devotes two days of the course to the corrects identification of leather finishes. So it is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes and materials used by OEM’s as they all require different methodologies and products for proper care and maintenance.

Automobile model ranges use different materials for their vehicles interiors; leather upholstery like Aniline Immersion Dyed, Aniline Micro Pigmented, (Urethane) Finished, Artificial leather such as MB-Tex and unfinished materials like Synthetics and Alcantara, and sometimes combinations of products (Alcantara seat inserts on leather seating) as well as various grades of leather hide, full-grain, top-grain and split –grain (which is protected with urethane) all of which require different products and applications methods.

Leather
It is hard to find an application that tests the durability and strength of leather like that of automotive upholstery. From extreme temperatures to hard, physical contact, automotive upholstery demands leather finishes that will withstand the punishment that it receives

Leather's major attribute is its ability to breathe, which it does even better than wool. This means not just its permeability to air but its permeability to water vapour, so allowing the absorption of perspiration and warmth. Thus it feels warm in winter and cool in summer, yet doesn't become hot and sticky.

On the other hand, whilst it absorbs water vapour it doesn't readily absorb liquid, so rain (but don’t allow over saturation) will not harm it and a damp cloth can be used to keep it clean
The leather is a natural product that has a matte finish and comes from animal (bovine) hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them.

A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather used in auto vehicles is tanned cow hide, which is laterally split, rendering an upper (Premium) and lower cut (Split-leather or by-cast). (See the article “Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification”)

Proper surface care
Is all about knowing the properties of the surface you want to treat and what product contains the correct formulation of ingredients best suited for that surface. Leather finishes are a very chemically complex material, and if the product is incompatible with it in any way, it can exert a damaging effect: finish peeling, finish cracking, color transfer ("crocking"), yellowing, and general degradation are some of the problems that can be caused by the application of an improperly formulated, incompatible leather treatment product.

Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.

With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen, stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.

Surface checks
· Identifying characteristics 
· The water-drop absorbency test
· Absorbency rate

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products.

Always select a chemical/cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

Testing cleaners on an inconspicuous area is the best way to ensure there are no surprises as to its effect, but be cognizant that it may not react in exactly the same way as a heavily soiled area or that has been subjected to UV-B radiation (faded) When spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the surface.

Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution onto a 100% cotton micro fibre towel and rub gently. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.   

Do not use the product if it adversely changes the surface colour or texture.

Choosing a Leather Care Product
The most important consideration in leather care is to identify the finished leather used. Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and/or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products/methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First you need to identify the material and finishes used; Aniline and Protected or  Coated
Different types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different process. Check your 'leather type' before attempting to clean or apply any products to its surface.

Leather Master Products are used as a ‘benchmark’ by other leather care product vendors. All aqueous (water- based) cleaners will remove any body oil or salts, dirt and grime and wash them from the leather surface.

Today, Leather Masters™ leads the industry with over 350 different leather products. All Leather Masters™ products are manufactured in Montecchio Maggiore, Italy.

The world's largest tannery, located nearby, keeps them up to date on the latest changes within the industry. As an added bonus you’ll use a lesser amount of product with superior results.

The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is further sealed by a durable polyethene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust/dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system

Surface Protection
It is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off

Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for the leather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer.

Both Leather Masters Protection and Vital although water-based contain trace amounts of oil, which leaves only a very thin surface film to counteract surface abrasion by providing surface lubrication (driver or passenger entry/exit). (See also Oil and oil-based Products)

Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle
If you have just purchased a new vehicle with finished leather upholstery I would strongly advise that you wipe down the surface with a damp cloth/sponge and apply a light coat of leather protection cream.  This will help resist dirt, oils and stains and make future cleaning much easier. This is particularly important if your leather is a light colour as this will help to resist and the removal of stains and dye transfer from clothing.

Usually, protected finished leather that has cracked or peeled is not from use, but from body oils and perspiration that have settled down into the grain of the leather and started to dissolve the finish over time. The Protection Cream will assist in preventing the cracking and peeling when proper cleaning is also done in combination.

Leather's greatest enemies are; dirt or grit abrasion, sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and/or the hide to crack.

Upholstery leather given the proper care and protection will withstand all of the above; provided the loss by evaporation of its essential moisture is replenished to counteract drying and stiffening, and to maintain both flexibility and suppleness.

Wax and/or oils that are found in many conditioning products cannot permeate the finish but will only remain on the surface and attract dirt, which in turn will become an abrasive solution that will wear away the finish. They may also negatively affect the evaporation and hydration process. Water- based products do not contain oils and/or waxes so if the label says they do then don't use them.

Understanding dressings are essential; obtain accurate technical information on automotive care products can be problematic, but detailers should be knowledgeable on the dressings sold for leather (this is also true for tyres, rubber, vinyl, etc) and their chemical content. Otherwise, they are at the mercy of the supplier to provide not only products but also the technical knowledge and application methodology regarding product usage.

Unfortunately not all suppliers or distributors have the ability or technical knowledge to provide accurate information to the trade; some do not want to divulge what they term ’trade secrets’ as the information might be detrimental to their product sales or company image. Honest opinion or merely advertising?

Commercialism brings with it concerns of honesty and true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is true when someone is motivated by income or has a vested interest

Hydration

When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration.

Is simply the replenishment of lost moisture, water molecules are smaller than the ones used in the polyurethane top coats so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with softness and strength.

Leather is hygroscopic and so moisture is the most important element (median15 %) in the care of leather; all changes in leather are due to moisture differences. Too little moisture (< 10%) will cause the leather to become hard and inflexible, too much (> 20 %) and it may the fibres to swell and may cause mould formation.

A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and/or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent. Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line

Moisture Content

The leather is hygroscopic and so moisture is the most important element (median 15 %) in the care of leather; all changes in leather are due to moisture differences. Too little moisture (< 10%) will cause the leather to become hard and inflexible, too much (> 20 %) and it may the fibres to swell and may cause mould formation.

Leather's major attribute is its ability to breathe, which it does even better than wool. This means not just its permeability to air but its permeability to water vapour, so allowing the absorption of perspiration and warmth. Thus it feels warm in winter and cool in summer, yet doesn't become hot and sticky.

On the other hand, whilst it absorbs water vapour it doesn't readily absorb liquid, so a light rain will not harm it and a damp cloth can be used to keep it clean

Leather naturally absorbs and retains moisture, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. The denaturing process of leather tanning removes moisture from the hide, introducing solvent-based products accelerates ageing of the leather.

When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration;

The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration) As leather is porous, it loses its moisture through evaporation at a rate dependent upon two variables; ambient humidity level, and heat. Where ambient conditions are very hot and/or experience very low humidity, finished leather will lose its moisture, which must be replaced.

The breathability of leather allows small particles of moisture to move back and forth through the leather and this is what keeps it in good condition. Once the moisture levels in leather drop due to evaporation or transpiration it becomes dry and brittle, to avoid this it needs to be re-hydrated.
The recommended frequency for hydration is a function of the environment. For example, in an automobile, the head rests and top of the rear seat backrests tend to dry out very quickly due to direct, prolonged sun exposure.

Why does leather feel dry or stiff? What actually dries out is the leather’s moisture, which then leaves the fat liquors stiffer and less flexible (hence the feeling of dryness or stiff leather)

Surface moisture constitutes approximately 10% of finished leather moisture content, which is subject to evaporation and must be replaced to avoid dehydration. Most of the actual hide’s moisture content is provided by the Tanner when the fat liquor introduced during the re-tanning process, which maintains the moisture of the corium fibre matrix, allowing them to remain flexible. This fat liquoring is sealed into the hide and under normal circumstances should not require any maintenance

Aqueous (water- based) products restore the lost moisture of finished leather and maintain its natural flexibility. When moisture is replaced the fibres will become flexible again and gives the leather a softer feel. Being in an enclosed space with little to no ventilation will exacerbate dehydration if the leather is subjected to very high temperatures and low humidity conditions the fat liquor oils introduced during the re-tanning process may become destabilised, leading to the finished leather becoming dehydrated.

Apply an aqueous (water- based) product (Leather Master Soft Touch (ex Vital) this is not a conditioner per se but it will revitalise leather that has become dehydrated. It is also excellent for improving the tactile feel of leathers. Apply to surface and allowing it to remain, renewing as necessary. And then apply an aqueous (water- based) protection

Patina (softness)
Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Vital) - this is not a conditioner per se; it contains polymers in an aqueous emulsion and is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by rehydration and to ensure the leather remains matte, soft and supple. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area being worked on and to dilute some of the pigments, helping them to permeate

Apply a small amount to dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel, allow to dwell for 20-30 minutes and then wipe the surface with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel. For revitalizing older leathers and also to improve the feel of stiff leathers it’s better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application
Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces


 I hope this series of leather care article has helped you to understand that little bit more about the leather finish in your vehicle's upholstery and how to care for it correctly

Semi-aniline Leather (Micro-Pigmented (MP)


Other so-called semi-aniline leather use top-grain leather; Milano, Silk Nappa, Valcona (Audi) Boston, Baseball, Dakota, Montana, (BMW) Chaparral, Range Rover Vogue are examples of micro pigment leather. Transparent, not even milky or translucent dye is added to an opaque medium, the opacity y remains, although some colour is added, and the net gray-equivalent brightness is always reduced because a dye can only absorb light. (See also Aniline (Immersion Dyed) Leather) Actually many desire the semi-aniline finish in full-grain leather because it gives a more natural look to the leather.

Using advanced micro pigments this finishing technique makes the finish rigorous enough to stand up to the conditions it would be subjected to in an automobile. These come in several variations and usually have a very fine (micro) coat of pigment to create the colour or effect and then sealed. 

Generally speaking, micro pigment style leathers come in very earthy natural colours, incorporating a small quantity of pigment (a thin clear sealant that provides a uniform colour and affords some protection) but not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics of the hide so it will still retain the soft hand of Aniline leather. This type of leather is also used for perforated leather finishes.

Micro Pigment
Is a term used by the auto leather industry to better describe leather with a thin urethane layer of pigment coating, which provides an even colour and abrasion resistance. As opposed to the mislabelled Aniline leather (aniline is a dye (immersion) method, not a leather type), which will absorb body oils and moisture and would be subject to abrasion unless it has been treated in some way.
More often used for automotive upholstery as it is more durable than uncoated aniline whilst still retaining a natural appearance Semi-Aniline leather surface coating containing a small amount of pigment in the base coat, this surface coating helps impart greater stain resistance. The increased durability is provided by the application of a light surface coating which contains both pigment (colour) and an anti-abrasion additive, this ensures consistent colour, imparts some stain resistance and helps with the abrasion of entering and exiting the vehicle

Generally speaking, micro pigment style leathers come in very earthy natural colours, which may incorporate a small quantity of pigment (a thin clear sealant that provides a uniform colour and affords some protection) but not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics or feel of the hide. Other colours (i.e. gray, black, etc) have a pigmentation coating added. Transparent, not even milky or translucent; added to an opaque medium, the opacity remains, although some colour is added, and the net gray-equivalent brightness is always reduced because a dye can only absorb light.

This leather is also used for perforated finished leather. A full aniline immersion dye is one method of tanning to achieve a desired, natural looking hide or leather. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. The aqueous (water- based) pigmentation allows for evaporation and replacement of moisture (hydration) staying cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Identifying characteristics - generally speaking, micro pigmented style leathers come in very earthy natural colours, and is coloured all the way through with a transparent dye. It is absorbent and has random shade colours and grain pattern, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour.
The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will permeate the surface and darken its colour (temporarily)

Absorbency rate – Medium High

Micro pigmented leather is somewhat absorbent, which means that any spills, body oils etc will eventually soak into the leather hide. It should be routinely cleaned to remove light dirt and dust by using specific aniline leather cleaner that that will clean the surface of the leather, without being absorbed, or force the soil into the leather.

This type of finish is porous (to moisture and oils) but in these cases, we would be trying to prevent the absorption of oils into the leather as they can cause an imbalance which would then have to be rectified. Body oils can also cause many problems with leather of this type, as they are acidic, leaving unsightly patches which are expensive to fix.

In addition to regular cleaning to remove abrasive debris and oils, leather requires regular replacement of its moisture (rehydration) by regular use of a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. Micro pigmented leather is moisture sensitive, so avoid the use of oil or wax-based products as they may negatively affect the evaporation and hydration moisture balance. Aqueous (water- based) products will help to hydrate the leather and maintain necessary moisture

The oils secreted from your skin are slightly acidic and may cause the leather pigmentation to lose its colour prematurely, taking away the effect of a premium leather interior. Removing these oils is paramount to leather care, but limiting the amount of bare skin you expose to your seats and interior is a great way to prevent discoloration. This type of leather can be renovated with a pigmentation coating  

Removing Stains
• Surface dirt and dust – use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a clean, damp cloth

• Spills – use a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel to absorb liquids, and then wipe clean with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel.

• Stains – use a mild leather cleaner (test on an inconspicuous place before use) using very little pressure and do not ‘scrub’ to remove

• Water marks - wet the whole panel while the area is still damp and this should then dry evenly. However, if the water has dried and permeated the leather leaving a hard edge no amount of cleaning will resolve this.

• Oil stains – should be removed immediately, if allowed to permeate it will stain. Leather Master Leather Degreaser is applied through a spray. It dissolves the oils and transforms them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather.

· This powder is what is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are still a lot of oils in the leather.

· For resistant strains, a specific cleaning product is available, but be aware that certain stains may not be removable, i.e. dye transfer from leather belts and jeans, coffee, penetrated sun tan oil, food sauces, citrus fruit drinks, etc are especially difficult to remove. On this type of leather anything that is allowed to permeate the leather may stain it permanently as it is not possible to clean out of leather.

· Clean accidental spills right away, do not allow liquid to soak or ‘heat set’ into the leather. It is very important with this type of leather to use a protective aqueous (water- based) type protection product, which will inhibit dirt and body oils etc from being absorbed into the leather in the first place; these can then be cleaned from the surface easily. Micro pigmented leather fades at a faster rate than protected leather, so ultra violet (UV) protection is of paramount importance.

Three Step Micro pigment Leather Care
Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow the product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.  

Micro pigment leather doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself

1. Cleaning - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely.  The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt/grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear
Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel

The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive leathers.

 Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried. Remove excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. If the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the surface. Check the results and repeat process as necessary

For heavily soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush) especially on light coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer, stains, etc)

2. Hydration – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and/or waxes.

Moisture balance is a sine qua non (an indispensable and essential action) in leather care.  Leather naturally absorbs and retains moisture vapour, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. One of a major attribute is its ability for transpiration (allowing the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration), which it does even better than wool.

Repetitive heat cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however, the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.

A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and/or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent.

Soft Touch (ex Vital) - is not a conditioner per se but a water-based product used for revitalizing and restoring the tactile feel of older leathers and also to improve the feel of stiff leathers

3. Protection - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for leather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable, allowing transpiration and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer

3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) protection  against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and dashboards

It’s water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn’t contain silicones so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents)  

It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.

Note: This product does NOT air dry.  Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process.  Extra buffing with a dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability

Maintenance
Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Leather Master™ Soft Touch - apply and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.

I hope this article has helped you to understand that little bit more about the leather finish in the upholstery of your vehicle and how to care for it correctly

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