Friday, 27 March 2015

Silica Coatings: Protection from Potential Health Hazards


Wear appropriate personal protective clothing to include: Safety glasses, Hearing and Respiratory protection

Silicosis happens by breathing the dust particulates of silica (glass), which cut and scar the lungs, causing damage, which results in diminished lung capacity. So where does the silicon dioxide enter into this equation as a safe product to breathe when applied as a spray?
Liquid glass is actually a mixture of caustic soda, quartz sand, and water are prepared in a mixing tank, then fed into a reactor, where steam is introduced. The reaction is (n SiO2 + 2 NaOH → Na2O•nSiO2 + H2O). Sodium silicate is spherical silica in a liquid state, which essentially means ‘liquid glass’ crystals which are smooth and round instead of sharp and pointed.
Because there are no sharp edges to damage lung tissue it is relatively safe to breath. But why would we think it is safe to fill our lungs with round glass any more than with jagged sharp glass particles? Do the lungs have the ability to process and get rid of the ‘spherical’ shapes through the blood stream?
Is ‘liquid silicon dioxide’ really ‘colloidal silica,’ or is it ‘sodium silicate’? Silicon dioxide = SiO2 and Sodium silicate = Na2SiO3. Colloidal silica is simply the liquid spherical shape of silicon dioxide while sodium silicate is silicon dioxide with an added salt element (Na). Both products are derived from the second most abundant element on Earth – sand.
I would strongly suggest you do not breathe it in but use the appropriate personal protection. If you were to examine the urethane clear coat with high-performance electron- microscope, you would see lots of fissures or micro holes. Nano sized silica glass particles penetrate these fissures to form a mechanical anchor with the clear coat, creating a durable finish that won't fracture
Respiratory Protection (N95): Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers Crystalline silica (polishes and compounds) poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis and Isocyanate clear coat residue represent a hazard to your lungs and may cause respiratory distress.
The reliability of any respiratory is dependent on proper selection, training, medical screening, and respirator maintenance. Use a NIOSH-approved half face respirator equipped with a combination filter cartridge should be worn while using them
Consult the current 3M Respiratory Selection Guide for additional information or call 1-800-243-4630 for 3M technical assistance
I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire safely.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Thursday, 26 March 2015

Leather care Products


Leather care has always been a highly controversial subject. The main reason for this is due to the lack of advancements in the chemistry of products. The vast majority consist of outdated products and techniques that were used 25 years ago. These products were the only chemicals and methods available during that time period and were derived from products used in other industries and applications.
This creates a great deal of confusion for the consumer. Many of the products sold are produced solely from the standpoint of making a sale. This has established a poor reputation within the industry, and causes many people to conclude that it’s a waste of time and money since these products do not work as expected.
Over the five decades I've been involved with detailing the materials and production methods that are used for automotive leather upholstery have changed; and we need to adapt our product usage and application methodologies to change with them
Research
Information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information.
There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. It had always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated.
That is why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable for your requirements.
After various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material on both a practical and scientific level.
I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather not with the leather hide itself
For many, finding the best leather care product is as simple as using what is the most popular. While popularity can sometimes be a reliable barometer, it isn’t always the correct choice. Some even make their decision based on new car’s leather fragrance alone.
My best advise; research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information, not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.
Materials Technology
Automotive OEM technology is becoming more and more complex requiring educated and skilled technicians to work on them. As the materials used are constantly changing we must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies.
Automobile manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is. There are many so-called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom split (the fibrous part of the hide) which are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating. Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use, you need to ascertain the grade of leather and the type of leather finish applied
Be cognizant that the leather and finishes used for automotive upholstery varies from leather industry standard descriptions and although the names are similar the type of leather, pigmentation and finish are often very different.
The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) is a reference Guide for Professional Upholstery Cleaning (IICRC S300) it’s a five day leather training course, which devotes two days of the course to the corrects identification of leather finishes. So it is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes and materials used by OEM’s as they all require different methodologies and products for proper care and maintenance.
Automobile model ranges use different materials for their vehicles interiors; leather upholstery like Aniline Immersion Dyed, Aniline Micro Pigmented, (Urethane) Finished, Artificial leather such as MB-Tex and unfinished materials like Synthetics and Alcantara, and sometimes combinations of products (Alcantara seat inserts on leather seating) as well as various grades of leather hide, full-grain, top-grain and split –grain (which is protected with urethane) all of which require different products and applications methods.

Leather
It is hard to find an application that tests the durability and strength of leather like that of automotive upholstery. From extreme temperatures to hard, physical contact, automotive upholstery demands leather finishes that will withstand the punishment that it receives
Leather's major attribute is its ability to breathe, which it does even better than wool. This means not just its permeability to air but its permeability to water vapour, so allowing the absorption of perspiration and warmth. Thus it feels warm in winter and cool in summer, yet doesn't become hot and sticky.
On the other hand, whilst it absorbs water vapour it doesn't readily absorb liquid, so rain (but don’t allow over saturation) will not harm it and a damp cloth can be used to keep it clean
Leather is a natural product that has a matte finish, and comes from animal (bovine) hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them.
A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather used in auto vehicles is tanned cow hide, which are laterally split, rendering an upper (Premium) and lower cut (Split-leather or by-cast). (See the article “Leather Upholstery Type Surface Identification”)
Proper surface care
Is all about knowing the properties of the surface you want to treat and what product contains the correct formulation of ingredients best suited for that surface. Leather finishes are a very chemically complex material, and if the product is incompatible with it in any way, it can exert a damaging effect: finish peeling, finish cracking, color transfer ("crocking"), yellowing, and general degradation are some of the problems that can be caused by the application of an improperly formulated, incompatible leather treatment product.
Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.
With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.
Surface checks
• Identifying characteristics
• The water-drop absorbency test
• Absorbency rate
Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products.
Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.
Testing cleaners on an inconspicuous area is the best way to ensure there are no surprises as to its affect, but be cognizant that it may not react in exactly the same way as a heavily soiled area or that has been subjected to UV-B radiation (faded) When spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the surface.
Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution onto a 100% cotton micro fibre towel and rub gently. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.
Do not use the product if it adversely changes the surface colour or texture.
Choosing a Leather Care Product
The most important consideration in leather care is to identify the finished leather used. Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First you need to identify the material and finishes used; Aniline and
Protected or Coated
Different types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a slightly different process. Check your 'leather type' before attempting to clean or apply any products to its surface.
Leather Master Products are used as a ‘benchmark’ by other leather care product vendors. All aqueous (water- based) cleaners will remove any body oil or salts, dirt and grime and wash them from the leather surface.
Today, Leather Masters™ leads the industry with over 350 different leather products. All Leather Masters™ products are manufactured in Montecchio Maggiore, Italy.
The world's largest tannery, located nearby, keeps them up to date on the latest changes within the industry. As an added bonus you’ll use a lesser amount of product with superior results.
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system
Surface Protection
It is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer.
Both Leather Masters Protection and Vital although water-based contain trace amounts of oil, which leaves only a very thin surface film to counteract surface abrasion by providing surface lubrication (driver or passenger entry / exit). (See also Oil and oil-based Products)
Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle
If you have just purchased a new vehicle t will undoubtedly have finished leather upholstery I would strongly advise that you wipe down the surface with a damp cloth/sponge and apply a light coat of leather protection cream. This will help resist dirt, oils and stains and make future cleaning much easier.
This is particularly important if your leather is a light colour as this will help to resist and the removal of stains and dye transfer from clothing.
Usually, protected finished leather that have cracked or peeled is not from use, but from body oils and perspiration that have settled down into the grain of the leather and started to dissolve the finish over time. The Protection Cream will assist in preventing the cracking and peeling when proper cleaning is also done in combination.
Leather's greatest enemies are; dirt or grit abrasion, sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.
Upholstery leather given the proper care and protection will withstand all of the above; provided the loss by evaporation of its essential moisture is replenished to counteract drying and stiffening, and to maintain both flexibility and suppleness.
Wax and / or oils that are found in many conditioning products cannot permeate the finish but will only remain on the surface and attract dirt, which in turn will become an abrasive solution that will wear away the finish. They may also negatively affect the evaporation and hydration process. Water- based products do not contain oils and/or waxes so if the label says they do then don't use them.
Understanding dressings is essential; obtain accurate technical information on automotive care products can be problematic, but detailer’s should be knowledgeable on the dressings sold for leather (this is also true for tyres, rubber, vinyl, etc) and their chemical content. Otherwise they are at the mercy of the supplier to provide not only products, but also the technical knowledge and application methodology regarding product usage.
Unfortunately not all suppliers or distributors have the ability or technical knowledge to provide accurate information to the trade; some do not want to divulge what they term ’trade secrets’ as the information might be detrimental to their product sales or company image.
Honest opinion or merely advertising?
Commercialism brings with it concerns of honesty and true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is true when someone is motivated by income
Hydration
When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration.
Is simply the replenishment of lost moisture, water molecules are smaller than the ones used in the polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with softness and strength.
Leather is hygroscopic and so moisture is the most important element (median15 %) in the care of leather; all changes in leather are due to moisture differences. Too little moisture (< 10%) will cause the leather to become hard and inflexible, too much (> 20 %) and it may the fibres to swell and may cause mould formation.
A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent. Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Moisture Content
Leather's major attribute is its ability to breathe, which it does even better than wool. This means not just its permeability to air but its permeability to water vapour, so allowing the absorption of perspiration and warmth. Thus it feels warm in winter and cool in summer, yet doesn't become hot and sticky.
On the other hand, whilst it absorbs water vapour it doesn't readily absorb liquid, so a light rain will not harm it and a damp cloth can be used to keep it clean
Leather naturally absorbs and retains moisture, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. The denaturing process of leather tanning removes moisture from the hide, introducing solvent-based products accelerates aging of the leather.
When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes.
The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration;
The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration) As leather is porous, it loses its moisture through evaporation at a rate dependent upon two variables; ambient humidity level, and heat. Where ambient conditions are very hot and / or experience very low humidity, finished leather will lose its moisture, which must be replaced.
The breathability of leather allows small particles of moisture to move back and forth through the leather and this is what keeps it in good condition. Once the moisture levels in leather drop due to evaporation or transpiration it becomes dry and brittle, to avoid this it needs to be re-hydrated.
The recommended frequency for hydration is a function of the environment. For example, in an automobile, the head rests and top of the rear seat backrests tend to dry out very quickly due to direct, prolonged sun exposure.
Why does leather feel dry or stiff? What actually dries out is the leather’s moisture, which then leaves the fat liquors stiffer and less flexible (hence the feeling of dryness or stiff leather)
Surface moisture constitutes approximately 10% of finished leathers moisture content, which is subject to evaporation and must be replaced to avoid dehydration. Most of the actual hide’s moisture content is provided by the tanner when the fat liquor introduced during the re-tanning process, which maintains the moisture of the corium fibre matrix, allowing them to remain flexible. This fat liquoring is sealed into the hide and under normal circumstances should not require any maintenance
Aqueous (water- based) products restore the lost moisture of finished leather and maintain its natural flexibility. When moisture is replaced the fibres will become flexible again and gives the leather a softer feel. Being in an enclosed space with little to no ventilation will exacerbate dehydration if the leather is subjected to very high temperatures and low humidity conditions the fat liquor oils introduced during the re-tanning process may become destabilised, leading to the finished leather becoming dehydrated.
Apply an aqueous (water- based) product (Leather Master Soft Touch (ex Vital) this is not a conditioner per se but it will revitalise leather that has become dehydrated. It is also excellent for improving the tactile feel of leathers. Apply to surface and allowing it to remain, renewing as necessary. And then apply an aqueous (water- based) protection
Patina (softness)
Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Vital) - this is not a conditioner per se; it contains polymers in an aqueous emulsion and is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by rehydration and to ensure the leather remains matte, soft and supple. It can also be used when doing repair work to help soften the area being worked on and to dilute some of the pigments, helping them to permeate
Apply a small amount to dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel, allow to dwell for 20-30 minutes and then wipe surface with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel. For revitalizing older leathers and also to improve the feel of stiff leathers it’s better to apply several thin layers than a heavy application
Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces
I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved

What exactly is automotive reconditioning or reconditioning?


Automotive Reconditioning

Originated in California, and is basically taking a car and preparing it to the highest of standards, by paying attention to every last 'detail'. Many people assume that it’s the same as the predominantly British terminology, ‘Valeting’; this is due to some of the processes involved - i.e. cleaning. However the difference lies within the different stages of each process and ultimately the finished result. We are talking real perfectionist attention to detail. In some countries they call it “Salon de belleza para automobiles” (beauty salon for cars) in California they call it automotive reconditioning

Automotive reconditioning is the practice of performing an extremely thorough cleaning of an automobile, both inside and out. Paint renovation is the removal of surface scratches and blemishes by 'levelling' the paint with a rotary machine, and the application of a wax or paint sealant to produce a show-quality level of detail. It can be practiced for personal satisfaction, and it is also performed to prepare a car for a Concours d'Elegance (often shortened to just Concours), a car show that features the appearance of cars. Elements of exterior reconditioning include claying, polishing, and waxing.

 Interior reconditioning involves the cleaning of the interior of a vehicle using vacuums, liquid cleaners, and brushes. Engine reconditioning involves cleaning the engine bay area of dirt and grease by using degreasers and all-purpose cleaners.

Automotive reconditioning; Knowledge, Experience, and the Applicable Chemistry; balanced to provide Aesthetics

Formulate a plan, then utilize proper techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a reconditioning outcome successful. It also takes a willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product manufacturers directions, making objectives observations based upon experience and adjusting the techniques used as necessary, always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.

Elements of exterior reconditioning include claying, polishing, and waxing. Interior reconditioning involves the cleaning of the interior of a vehicle using vacuums, liquid cleaners, and brushes. Engine reconditioning involves cleaning the engine bay area of dirt and grease by using degreasers and all-purpose cleaners. Experience; it takes time to learn how to use the various tools correctly along with the appropriate products. Knowledge; takes an open mind, a willingness to learn and experiment, while taking time to learn from others
The number of vehicles worked on or the amount of ‘time’ you have in reconditioning does not make necessarily make you a top class detailer (it is possible to make the same mistakes over and over again- just because it works and that’s the way you’ve always done it, are very pathetic excuses.

Analysis and diagnosis is the best approach to take. All professionals, even doctors refer to their medical books or to other doctors for advice when they are confronted with a problem to which they don’t have the answer to. A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating; easily dulled and very easily scratched and / or damaged.

So if you are confronted with a problem that you can’t solve on your own, seek advice from an expert on what has proven to work without causing damage. Choose carefully the advice you listen to and more importantly what advice you act upon. As opposed to an opinion of what might fix it.

A detailer combines chemicals, equipment as well as knowledge of the materials used in automotive manufacturing (vehicle surfaces). ‘Chemicals’, refers to the cleaning and protection products used, ‘equipment,’ refers to the tools used, for example, random orbital polishers, high-speed rotary polishers, extractors and power washers, to name but a few.

Vehicle surfaces require a basic understanding of chemistry and how to rejuvenate and protect each of the many and varied material surfaces, regardless of its specific surface composition making objective observations based upon experience, the results obtained, and adjusting the techniques and products used as necessary. Reconditioning also takes a willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product manufacturers directions, making objectives observations based upon experience and adjusting the techniques used as necessary, always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.

Cleaning

Analysis and diagnosis is the best approach to take. All professionals, even doctors refer to their medical books or to other doctors for advice when they are confronted with a problem to which they don’t have the answer to. A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating; easily dulled and very easily scratched and / or damaged.

So if you are confronted with a problem that you can’t solve on your own, seek advice from an expert on what has proven to work without causing damage. Choose carefully the advice you listen to and more importantly what advice you act upon. As opposed to an opinion of what might fix it.

Reconditioning is an essential part in the maintaining the appearance of a vehicle. The objective when reconditioning a vehicle is to make a vehicle look as good as it can. In many cases make it look better than it was when new. Reconditioning can take a lot of time, but the results are always worth the effort. Proper reconditioning will also protect a vehicle from environmental hazards that can rob life away from your vehicle. In order to attain and maintain an optically perfect shine, you must protect it from natural deterioration and dullness that occurs over time.

Reconditioning can be very simple and fun if you use the correct methodologies and products that work. Research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? It is also recommended that you should also verify any information that anyone shares with you.

The only way to do this is a consistent three-step routine; Clean, Polish, Protect

The question is... Do I buy a new car or keep my present one and do my best to keep appearance at its best and maintain it at top value?
Well the second part of that question is where proper reconditioning can help. An investment in your time and top quality products will help you maintain the finish and looks of your daily driver as well as your "toy." Any prospective buyer in the future will know that you've taken care of your vehicle and it's worth the price you're asking for it.

Vehicle Condition and Resale Price

When it comes to selling your vehicle, you never get a second chance to make a great first impression. The most important thing is to clean the vehicle inside and out, including the engine bay. A clean, shiny vehicle gives the impression that you cared about the vehicle and maintained its condition. This may also increase your vehicle's sale price significantly.

To see just how much the condition of your vehicle affects its valuation and its resale value we examined some figures from Kelly’s Blue Book and Glass's Guide. The only variable that changed for each vehicle was its condition, rated fair or excellent, with a scale of poor, fair, good or excellent.

This clearly shows the significant differences in the value of maintaining your vehicle. The average difference was over three thousand dollars or 16% more when comparing the value from fair to excellent. These figures do not solely reflect the added value of reconditioning, but clearly it's a large component of the equation.

Process over Product

A product represents a very small percentage of the equation; identification of the materials, correct diagnosis of a suitable method and the selection of an appropriate product along with the correct surface preparation and application methodology will result in the desired result being obtained

Product Use

Dependent upon your reconditioning goals and the areas of concern you would like to work on.You do need to understand some of the basic chemistry behind the materials and finishes used for automobiles to understand how to care for it.
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; the most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material finish is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain (Organic stains, Inorganic stains or Petroleum soils) and what is the material you are trying to remove the stain from.

Materials Technology

Automotive OEM technology is becoming more and more complex requiring educated and skilled technicians to work on them. As the materials used are constantly changing we must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies.

It is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes and materials used by OEM’s as they all require different methodologies and products for proper care and maintenance.

Interiors: some automobile model ranges use different materials for their vehicles interiors; finished leathers like Aniline, Pigmented, Covered and unfinished materials like Synthetics and Alcantara, and sometimes combinations of products (Alcantara seat inserts on leather seating) all of which require different products and applications methods.

Exterior: paint finish type will also vary between single stage, base coat clear coat (it’s important to be able to differentiate between these paint types as methodologies / products vary) metallic, and Tri-coat pearl paint finishes, which all vary in density (hardness)
Don't ever stop learning: knowledge of new technology and application methods also make detailer’s an asset to both a company and its clients and increase the value of the services offered

Product Application
The main priority is to ascertain the material you are trying to clean and then select a chemical that is compatible to clean it with Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning) apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.

Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture.

Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit your reconditioning experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

Attention to the small details

It’s often the small things that make the difference between a good detail and an outstanding one. Once your paint is polished and protected look to the final details; wheel wells, glass surfaces, tyres and the exhaust tips

Paint renovation, although the most noticeable aspect of reconditioning; it’s just the beginning. Cleaning is an essential part in the maintaining the appearance of a vehicle. The vehicle owner spends most time inside the vehicle, so the interior attention to details is of paramount importance. The objective when reconditioning a vehicle is to make a vehicle look as good as it can; both inside and outside; in many cases make it look better than it was when new. Reconditioning can take a lot of time, but the results are always worth the effort.
Proper reconditioning will also protect a vehicle from environmental hazards that can rob life away from your vehicle. In order to attain and maintain an optically perfect shine, you must protect it from natural deterioration and dullness that occurs over time.

Reconditioning can be very simple and fun if you use the correct methodologies and products that work. Research other options and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not hype or brand loyalty. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? It is also recommended that you should also verify any information that anyone shares with you. The only way to do this is a consistent three-step routine; Clean, Polish, Protect

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated


Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved


Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Optimum Polymer Technologies (ONR)


Soap is a blend of surfactants that are designed to emulsify (dissolve) oils into water. There is nothing in soap to help with dirt removal. Foam is a by-product of soap and it is caused by entrapment of air in soap and water. People perceive foam to create lubricity and correlate it to concentration and cleaning ability of soap. In fact, manufacturers add foamers to increase foam to capitalize on these misconceptions.
No Rinse is based on reactive polymers that have the ability to bond to surfaces as well as dirt or oily particles. These polymers have much greater lubricity than soap and form a film around the particles as well as paint to protect from marring. The concentration of these polymers is very high which is why only 1 oz. per wash is needed. In fact, when people use 3-4 oz., they complain about the excess lubricity and streaking! If anyone washes half their car with no rinse and the other half with soap, over time, they will see marring on the soap side only! That is why many add no rinse to their soap bucket before washing, which works well. However, because of the nature of these reactive polymers in concentrated form, they react with soap and foaming agents to form a gel (you can try this by mixing soap concentrate with no rinse). That is why we cannot add foaming agents to no rinse!

The Water softening ability of ONR comes from bonding and removing minerals from water which takes place by the polymers in No Rinse in the same way as it bonds to dirt or other surfaces. The polymers remove minerals from water by bonding and trapping them similar to how they remove dirt particles and drop them down to the bottom of solution. There is nothing in soap that has that ability hence dirt or contaminants float in the solution. The reactivity of the polymers come from having both negatively charged and positively charged groups in the polymer, which gives it a zwitterionic character. It can therefore bond with any particle whether they are anionic or cationic in nature. With the new no rinse wash and wax, we have further increased the lubricity, gloss, and protection. There is no product out there that can match the performance of these products.

Water Conservation / Usage Restrictions

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Government Accountability Office and other sources, many homeowners and businesses are going to face potentially huge increase in water and sewer rates for the foreseeable future. Already, some consumers are seeing price hikes of 50 percent to 90 percent or more.
Due to water usage restrictions in a (very) few more years the waterless wash will be the only legal way to wash vehicles. The environmental protection agency (EPA) is going to continue to put restrictions to conserve our lessening water resources, which will put an end to traditional car washings methods.

California and Florida are more environmentally aware than most other states; this is due, to consumers in these states having a greater awareness of environmental issues, helped along, in California at least, by regulation
Based on an estimated 32-billion gallons of fresh water consumed annually in the USA to wash cars (both commercially and at home), that’s approximately enough to supply the drinking water  for the US for a year, the conservation of such a valuable resource make perfect sense, we should all do our part in this.

Our Water Supply, Down the DrainWashington Post, by Robert Glennon, August 23, 2009

Car Washing Water Usage

·         Automatic car wash: 25 gal
·         Hose wash: 6.5 gal, assuming a stop/start nozzle or gun rather than running continuously for 30 minutes
·         Bucket wash: 25 gal - using buckets to wet the car and rinse it. If the car was only mildly dirty you could use a rinse-less wash with and wash a car with 5 gal
All numbers are approximations only

Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act (Proposition 65)

In 1986, California voters approved an initiative to address their growing concerns about exposure to toxic chemicals. That initiative became the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, better known by its original name of Proposition 65. Proposition 65 requires the State to publish a list of chemicals known to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. This list, which must be updated at least once a year, has grown to include approximately 775 chemicals since it was first published in 1987.
Proposition 65 requires businesses to notify Californians about significant amounts of chemicals in the products they purchase, in their homes or workplaces, or that are released into the environment. By providing this information, Proposition 65 enables Californians to make informed decisions about protecting themselves from exposure to these chemicals. Proposition 65 also prohibits California businesses from knowingly discharging significant amounts of listed chemicals into sources of drinking water.

Disposal of Aqueous Solutions

One should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of down the drain. Your local water treatment authority or publicly owned treatment works will have information on treatment and disposal of these cleaners. Adjustment of pH and dilution are usually required before disposal to a drain. Always comply with current water usage and disposal regulations / water usage restrictions.

A car care product may be biodegradable and environmentally safe but it’s not about what’s in the wash per se;  just remember the dirt, oil and road grease you are cleaning with it are not, once rinsed off the vehicle paint surface the resultant solution is no longer biodegradable or environmentally safe

Most local water authorities’ regulations prohibit car wash water run-off going into the storm drains. This product is specially formulated to clean and protect automotive surfaces safely and efficiently without using water.
The soy-based polymers used in Optimum Polymer Technologies products are both paint / body shop safe and will not interfere with the outgas process of freshly applied paint


Optimum Polymer Technologies (ONR) vs Soap

Soap is a blend of surfactants that are designed to emulsify (dissolve) oils into water. There is nothing in soap to help with dirt removal.  Foam is a by-product of soap and it is caused by entrapment of air in soap and water. People perceive foam to create lubricity and correlate it to concentration and cleaning ability of soap. In fact, manufacturers add foamers to increase foam to capitalize on these misconceptions.
ONR have set the standard in waterless washing by using encapsulating polymers and surfactants to safely remove dirt/grime without causing surface scratching.

Waterless polymer based systems do not require pre-wetting the surfaces. A combination of polymers and surfactant cleaners safely removes dirt and grime and leaves a glossy protective finish. The polymers and surfactants used in these non-rinse washes have the capability to bond to dirt particles and act as a barrier between the dirt particles and the paint. The grime and dirt is then trapped in the surfactant, protecting the paint finish without the need to use large amounts of water to flush the dirt off the vehicle.

With our busy schedules it’s very difficult to find enough time to wash your car and what with water restrictions and concerns for the environment it is even more difficult. Even when it's freezing outside it allows you to wash your vehicle. Some communities (condos, housing associations) prohibit the use of the traditional car washing (water hose and bucket) or severely restrict or do not allow car washing due to drought and water restrictions. Low winter temperatures make car washing difficult (and uncomfortable)

Optimum No Rinse™ Wash & Shine

This is the most technologically advanced car wash system that only requires 1-2 gallons of water to wash the entire car. It does not require rinsing since there are no soapy surfactants to wash off into the storm drains. An innovative product that protects automotive paint, while preserving our most valuable resource, water; enabling you to wash your car anywhere, even in freezing temperatures or even inside your garage. It’s a multi-purpose product that serves as a shampoo additive, no rinse wash, quick detailer and clay lubricant.
No Rinse is based on reactive polymers that have the ability to bond to surfaces as well as dirt or oily particles. These polymers have much greater lubricity than soap and form a film around the particles as well as paint to protect from marring. The concentration of these polymers is very high which is why only 1 oz. per wash is needed. In fact, when people use 3-4 oz., they complain about the excess

The science behind this cleaning process is pretty simple. When sprayed on a dirty surface;  surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, polymers encapsulate the soil particles in the media used, and  the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) residue removal using a minimum amount of water. A micro fibre towel is then used to wipe away the dirt.  A second dry microfiber towel is used to help polish away any remaining formula and buff the surface to a clean, streak-free shine.

No rinse contains encapsulating polymers that are soy based and there is no silicone whatsoever in this product. In fact you can paint right over it which would be impossible if it had any silicones.

This unique product contains substantive polymers which bond to the paint and protect it during the wash. Therefore, ONR offers better protection and lubricity than a conventional car wash, leaving a sleek finish behind afterwards.
Additional benefits are faster washes, ability to wash anywhere at any time including washing inside the garage during the cold months, no messy water runoffs, and greater looking car finishes.

The way ONR works without a pre-soak or rinsing is because the substantive polymers bond to the paint quickly to keep the surface lubricated, emulsify and encapsulate dirt to prevent marring, and leave behind a polymer shine. In order to do that, the encapsulation process will allow large, harmful particles to sink to the bottom of your bucket, and the smaller, soluble particles will actually be broken down so small that they are tiny enough to be pulled into the fibres of your wash mitt. That is why you need a detergent/degreaser to make them release. That isn't necessary with tradition shampoos because they are usually nothing more than soap and don't provide the level of safety that ONR does.

Particles small enough to be absorbed by the fibres are not a danger. One thing many have discovered is that foam wash media does not stain to the level that microfiber does. We offer the Opti Mitt for this very reason. It is made from the same soft foam used in high quality foam finishing pads so it is very safe and effective with No Rinse or traditional washes."


These are some of the reasons Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) is being used by many professional detailers across the country

Used as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc.  cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz. ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car.
For best results swirl-free results, use Optimum's high lubricity wash Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine along with a towel with a thick nap, 500-600 gram weight in a 16 x 16 –inch size seem to work best.




Optimum Red Sponge - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGmCZj-vdXk&feature=youtu.be

How does ONR work?
[The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They 
also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water.
The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles.
The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces.

When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. ] - David Ghodoussi - Optimum Polymer Technologies

To remove stains the surface tension that bonds them must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed. ONR is an almost waterless wash that doesn’t require rinsing, it’s formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact; it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. A surfactant or surface active agent is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces. They emulsify the dirt; the polymer protects the paint surface by forming a molecular bond, which remains even after the wash, offering protection comparable to that of a spray wax
ONR is an  ionic wash that contains zwitterions (hybrid) [: a chemical compound that carries a total net charge of 0, thus electrically neutral but carries formal positive and negative charges on different atom]  This allows the polymers to attach to the dirt and form a molecular bond to the surface at the same time. ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally; so you should change washing media as needed

The polymers also bond to automotive paint surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted surfaces (unlike a polymer).
The polymer protection left behind from ONR is very much dependent upon the water hardness. The polymers bond to the paint surface; this will also provide limited surface protection. That is something that other soaps will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted surfaces. This will have a limited effect on the durability of an applied LSP.

ONR is better and safer then soap
 Lubrication-, ONR lubricates through all phases of washing, washing with soap provides lubrication while the suds are on the paint, but then it gets rinsed off, and the drying process has no protection. Water is by definition a solvent, so with a soap wash you are trying to dry with a solvent that has high surface tension, ONR has a very low surface tension, and provides exceptional lubrication for all phases of the washing experience.

Optimum Opti™ - Clean
For really dirty surfaces
Based on the same surfactant type polymers used in Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) it has increased cleaning ability but is safe for use on all automotive surfaces. ONR works fine for a car with light to medium road dirt while Optimum Opti™ - Clean can be used on a car with several days of built- up road salt, dirt and grime.  The reason is that Opti™ - Clean contains the same polymers as  ONR that encapsulate dirt but at a much higher concentration, as well as additional polymers not used in ONR.

Alternative: Use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer by spraying it on the panels and allow to dwell, this will remove baked on dirt and etc.  Rinse with clean water and then dry, this will create a super slick, incredibly glossy finish.
 [While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti™ - Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash] David Ghodoussi OPT.

A totally waterless wash that provides some surface protection and  its ideal for a quick clean up or for use when there is no water available (apartments, condominiums, concours d’élégance or car shows) Simply spray Optimum Opti-Clean on any surface and wipe off with a plush microfiber towel till the area is clean and dry.
Always work in a shaded area on a surface that is cool to the touch. Make sure surface is not gritty with dirt or sand to avoid scratching. Optimum Opti™ - Clean water-less wash is designed to wipe away dirt and grime from automotive paint and other surfaces safely and effectively in a spray and wipe application. The substantive polymers encapsulate the dirt and grime to protect the paint from marring while lubricating and bonding to the painted and other automotive surfaces to provide greater protection while leaving a slick glossy finish behind.

Application-
 Avoid cross-contamination by using different micro fibre towels for differing surfaces i.e. separate towels for glass, paintwork, wheels, and interior surfaces. Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and fold the towel in quarters.

Bodywork - Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with an OPT Foam Wash Mitt or a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate

Glass surfaces - using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.

Wheels and lower paint panels - using a separate micro fibre towel, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off.

Road salt - to remove salt and road grit or to clean really soiled surfaces I would suggest a pre-rinse to remove the larger dirt particles first before being washed. Then use the ONR concentrates or the traditional two-bucket wash method or if you have a pressure washer available to remove the larger dirt / salt particles.

The number of towels and how much product you'll use will vary depending on how dirty the vehicle is but an average is five (5) towels per vehicle.

Alternative ONR wash method- Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and a similar solution /in a bucket. Place 10 – 12 micro fibre towels in the bucket, wring one (drying) towel lightly,  mist spray a panel and then take a wet towel and wipe down a panel in one direction only, change to a clean surface of the towel as necessary. When you have cleaned the panel place the used towel in an empty buck for washing later. With the drying towel wipe down the panel, finally with a clean, dry waffle weave micro fibre buff the panel to a shine (Based on a method by Gary Dean)

Use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer by spraying it on the panels as you dry the vehicle. This will create a super slick, incredibly glossy finish.

Note:
 If you mix with potable (tap) water the product may lose its colour; this is due to a chemical reaction with the impurities (Calcium and Magnesium) in the water; using a distilled water dilute it will not change.

The Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt is a soft (80 – 100 PPI) nonabrasive wash mitt designed to be used with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine and Optimum Car Wash to remove grime without scratching. The porous foam "absorbs" dirt and oil to prevent paint marring. The coarse yellow foam is excellent at cleaning wheels. Use the Opti-Mitt every time you wash your vehicle for safe, swirl-free washing.

Directions for using the concentrate:
·         Make up and aqueous solution Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate diluted ith1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle
·         Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with an OPT Foam Wash Mitt or a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed.
·         Glass and interior surfaces, using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.
·         Wheels and lower paint panels, using a separate micro fibre towel, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).

Notes:
Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula is not affected by freezing and thawing. Therefore, there should be no affect in the performance of this product.

Kwazar Mercury Pro - spray bottles are designed specifically for cleaning and detailing professionals. Every pump delivers twice the product onto the surface. High-density Polyethylene (HDPE) is resistant to many different solvents
Plus this sprayer has Viton ® Seals for high temperature and chemically aggressive applications, the spray can be adjusted from fine mist to a constant stream and also has stainless steel (chemical resistant) trigger spring fitted. Sizes available in 0.5 Litre (17 oz.) and 1 Litre (33oz.), available in blue, green, red, and yellow spray tops

Hard Water

                Here’s a way to minimize the effects of hard water when washing your vehicle.
If you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide, magnesium or silicates, some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. By adding Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR).to a regular car wash soap will improves the results when using tap water (0.5 oz. / gallon) always add it to the water to remove the minerals before adding your soap. This will maximize the benefits of using No Rinse in this manner.

Rinse less Wash
The science behind this cleaning process is pretty simple. When sprayed on a dirty surface;  surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, and  the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) residue removal using a minimum amount of water. A micro fibre towel is then used to wipe away the dirt and formula. A second dry microfiber towel is used to help polish away any remaining formula and buff the surface to a clean, streak-free shine.

Typical Product – Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).

Surfactants

A surfactant or surface active agent is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from the surfaces by lowering the surface tension of the medium in which it is dissolved.
By lowering this interfacial tension between two media or interfaces (e.g. water/dirt) the surfactant plays a key role in the removal and suspension of dirt. The lower surface tension of the water makes it easier to lift dirt and grease off of surfaces, and help to keep them suspended in the dirty water

ONR Directions

1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket
2. Soak wash media (Grout Sponge, Monster Fluffy towel or a wash Mitt) in solution and wash vehicle in sections
3. Dry each section with two clean towels consecutively

Clean the vehicle in this order
1.        Hood, front windshield
2.        Trunk, rear windshield
3.        Half of roof, each side to rockers
4.        Second half of roof, each side to rockers
5.        Bumpers, rockers
6.        Wheel surfaces
7.        Engine compartment

This is usually a progression from the least to the most soiled areas.

ONR Wash Methodology
·         Optional Pre-Soak (very dirty surfaces) - Spray down individual panels with a 1:20 solution ONR / distilled water with a fine mist spray bottle,  then wipe-down each panel with a wet micro fibre towel
·         For really dirty vehicles, use a pre-spray and mix a second solution half way through the process.
·         Use a Monster Fluffy micro fibre towel for washing.
·         ONR washing solution 1- oz. / 2- gallons of water
·         Take one towel and wet it with ONR washing solution 
·         Wring it out and make a single pass per clean side of the towel.
·         You can get 4-8 passes, with the towel folded in quarters. Each pass is then done with a perfectly clean towel surface and you're never rinsing any dirt out and releasing it in to your wash or rinse water. You can do the whole car with 2-4 towels.
·         Apply no pressure to the towel. I just glide it over the surface and only make one pass in one direction with a clean surface.
·         If you use the two bucket method (one fitted with a Grit Guard and one fitted with a Dirt Dropper) which highly recommended with this type of product, the wash solution will stay clean enough to be reusable as a pre-soak solution or for cleaning wheel surfaces.
·         ONR is formulated to ensure that dirt particles won’t mix with the solution but fall to the bottom of the bucket.
·         There is no need to rinse afterwards with ONR, but if you feel you must, please ensure that the water goes to a sewer and not a storm drain; either way the lubricating polymers in the No Rinse do a better job of protecting the finish than conventional car soap.
·         ONR is ultra violet (UV) sensitive, it causes it to lighten its colour, but has no detrimental effect

An ONR wash used in tandem with Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer, Finish Kare 425 or Ultima Detail Spray for a ‘just waxed’ look  If you use the two bucket method (one fitted with a grit guard) the wash solution will stay clean enough to be reusable. ONR is formulated to ensure that dirt particles won’t mix with the solution but fall to the bottom of the bucket.

The key to using ONR is to make sure your panel is thoroughly ‘washed’. This doesn't mean that you have to saturate your mitt and/or panel with the ONR but rather go over that panel 2 or 3 times if needed. When you wipe dry there should be no remaining dirt on the panel. If need be use several mitts, discarding a mitt as it becomes visually dirty. When finished there should be little or no water on the ground.

Sprayer System

I strongly recommend using ONR as a pre-wash using a mister/sprayer type of device. This will help to loosen or emulsify the dirt that is on the paint surface. This will also help to remove surface dirt without creating scratches or surface marring.
 No power cords necessary no waste, no bulk carry around; Gilmour Pesticide Spray Unit, United States Plastic Corporation ® Sprayer or Solo Hand Pump Sprayer, Model# 418-1L from Northern Tool Company it makes rinse less / water less detailing a breeze. Dilute as instructed. Simply misted onto surface, one softens, lifts, and encapsulates dirt particles in a protective lubricant that is easily and safely wiped away with a micro fibre towel.

Heavy duty construction- the walls of the pressure chamber are over 0.25- inch thick.  Keeping in mind that the high pressure system can retain some serious pressure once pumped we developed the walls to be extra thick. The Matt Clear HDPE packaging is also 100% recyclable and UV treated to protect the product inside.  Heavy Duty construction guarantees a long life to your sprayer even in the event that you should drop it.  Remember to always release pressure inside bottle when you’re finished, by simply loosening the top

Washing Vintage or Classic Cars

Washing these vehicles with a conventional wash will allow moisture to permeate seams and small openings allowing the formation of corrosion (rust). Restoration is a very expensive undertaking, which involves the removal of the body from the frame to eliminate metal corrosion.

The soy based polymers in Optimum Polymer Technologies ONR will not cause corrosion and may be a valuable service to offer a client with this type of vehicle (based on an idea by M Phillips)

Single Bucket Method

Use 1 oz. of ONR added to 2 gallons of water, when using a rinse bucket, there is no need to add No Rinse to the second bucket. However, you should wring the towel well after rinsing so that you do not dilute the wash bucket.

Various Uses for diluted ONR
Dilutions as per label

1.        Car wash solution - 1oz / 2 gallons - (2 capfuls)

2.        Detailer’s clay lubrication - 2oz / gallon (1:64)-( 4 capfuls)

3.        Quick detailer (QD) – 6 oz. / gallon (1:22) -( 4 capfuls)

4.        Wet-sanding lubrication – 6 oz. / gallon (1:22) -( 12 capfuls)

Note:
1.        The use of ONR in a distilled water solution is an efficient method of cleaning as the polymers that are used to encapsulate soiling are not binding to any minerals found in ‘hard’ water, thereby increasing its effectiveness.
2.        A solution with the dilutions (ratios) suggested utilizing a 16oz spray bottle (128 oz. = 1 Gallon) makes its application easier
3.        Each cap will hold 15 ml (0.5 oz.)

Quick Detailer

One of the first rules of paint care (especially noticeable with dark colours); the less you touch the paint surface; the less you’ll scratch it. Washing the car is the most efficient way of removing surface soil, dust, etc.

If you don’t have time for a two-bucket wash, then use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap dry surface dust, pollen or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches. Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only

1.        Pre Wash Cleaner – 2oz.per gallon solution in a spray bottle

2.        Engine Cleaning
·         Mix up some ONR (QD strength) in a garden pest pump spray
·         You’ll need a few small brushes and old terry cloth towels.
·         Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S Total Auto Wash
·         Spray the engine and let the solution dwell for a few minutes. 
·         Agitate with brushes to loosen road dirt, oil and grime as needed.
·         Re-spray with ONR solution, then wipe dry.
·         Start engine and let it run until completely dry.
·         Use Iz einszett Gummipflege or CD-2 for all hoses etc.

Note - Do not direct spray to any sensitive electrical components (see “Engine Bay Detailing” article for details)

3.        Paint Surface Drying Aid – dilute 1:20 with distilled water

Ratios
All amounts must be in the same unit of measurement; so taking the example of clay lube, to make one gallon of lube, them the fraction would be 2/128 oz. (128 oz. = 1 US Gal or 3.7 litres)
Now say you want to make 32oz of clay lube, take 2/128 = X/32 and cross multiply. The "X" is the amount of ONR you need to add. So you get 128X=64, divide both sides by 128, and you get 0 .5oz to add to 32oz of water to get the correct ratio solution.

Mercury Pro + Sprayer - High-density Polyethylene (HDPE) their high quality Viton ® Seals guarantee fault- free operation and are is resistant to many different solvents and can be used for both high temperature and chemically aggressive applications, the double action (works on both pull and release) spray and can be adjusted from fine mist to a constant stream and also has stainless steel (chemical resistant) trigger spring fitted. Sizes available in 0.5 Litre (17 oz.) and 1 Litre (33oz.), available in blue, green, red, and yellow spray tops. They are simple to use and very efficient.

Removing Bird Excrement

To remove bird excrement without causing scratches; apply very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only, use a product that contains a surfactant; this will lessen surface scratching as it contains extremely good lubricants and ‘lifts’ dust etc. into the media used avoiding surface friction (use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle)

Use a long nap micro fibre towel or an open cell sponge to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap or cells and not on the towel or sponge surface;  thereby causing surface marring. Shake the media occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.

Renew the shine - Optimum QD don’t use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking
Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?

Products- Optimum No Rinse (ONR)Optimum Polymer Technologies (OPT)

Removing Pollen

 [: Micro gametophytes (pollen grains]

The yellow fines to coarse powders you see in the air is made up of small sperm cells from blooming plants and are one of the most common allergy triggers. The pollen from trees are the main concern, vehicles get hit with pollen laced trees that include: oak, western red cedar, elm, birch, ash, hickory, polar, sycamore, maple, cypress and walnut (which also leaves an oily residue). Pollen grains of pines, firs, and spruces are winged.

Pollen must be strong to protect the male gametes on their journey. The outer wall of the pollen grain, called the exine, is composed of a very unusual substance called sporopollenin which is very tough.
The inner layer is made of cellulose and is similar in construction to an ordinary plant cell wall; pollen will literally ‘wear’ away wax or polymer sealants. Pollen isn't removed by air friction as you drive because it adheres to a surface with microscopic barbs that can attach to even a very slightly uneven surface, and adheres to a natural wax better than a synthetic polymer
As well as being allergic pollen is also very abrasive (due to its exine or barbs) and slightly acidic dust, especially when mixed with moisture and should therefore be removed from paint surfaces as soon as is practicable.
To remove heavy dust (do not use a California Duster as the pollen exine will cause surface marring) instead use Optimum No Rinse (ONR) a quick ‘wash’; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. As soon as is practical, thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a hose and clean water to ensure all the pollen is removed.

No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against: Micro gametophytes (pollen) Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product; but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface

Waterless Wash

Optimum Opti™ - Clean is a product that is specially formulated to clean and protect all automotive surfaces safely and efficiently without using any water. A combination of substantive polymers and cleaners safely removes dirt and grime and leaves a glossy protective finish on all automotive surfaces. Optimum Opti™ - Clean is based on the same natural polymers used in Optimum No Rinse™ and is safe for use on all automotive surfaces as well as being safe for the consumer and the environment.

Directions for ready to use: Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed. For glass and interior surfaces, apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel. For lower panels and wheels, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum No Rinse™

Directions for using the concentrate:
·         Dilute Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate 1:3 with distilled water. Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed.
·         Glass and interior surfaces, using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.
·         Lower paint panels and wheels, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum No Rinse™

Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt is a soft, nonabrasive wash mitt designed to work with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine to remove grime without scratching. The porous foam absorbs dirt and oil to prevent paint marring. The coarse yellow foam is excellent at cleaning wheels. Use the Opti-Mitt every time you wash your vehicle for safe, swirl-free washing.

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