PPG CeramiClear™ ®

In 2002, PPG introduced the first scratch resistant clear coat (CeramiClear™) to the automotive marketplace. Since then, scratch resistant clear coats have rapidly become the standard in the automotive industry.

PPG leads the market in offering a variety of scratch resistant clear coat technologies that not only meet the rigorous requirements of automotive manufacturing facilities worldwide, but also help vehicles retain a showroom-like finish for a longer period of time. The result: greater satisfaction with consumers, as they enjoy the look of their vehicles for a longer period of time.

CeramiClear™ ®Clear coat

PPG's CeramiClear™ ®clear coat was the first clear coat to use nanoparticle technology to achieve a previously unattained level of scratch, mar, and etch resistance. This patented technology creates a hard, silica-like surface that provides superior resistance to damage caused by day-to-day use, car washes, and environmental hazards such as acid rain and tree sap.

While this technology is currently employed as a two-component liquid clear coat, PPG is very close to commercializing a one-component version for use in automotive assembly plants. Are applied as a final coating over a traditional clear coat, and has an approximate thickness of 7.5 µ (0.5 Mil) this top layer also contains the paint systems UV protection. On Mercedes -Benz models that have CeramiClear™ ®paint there is a ‘C’ prefix to the three number paint codes. If the code reads"C040" you have black nanotech paint

PPG's CeramiClear™ ®clear coat was the first clear coat to use nanoparticle technology to achieve a previously unattained level of scratch, mar, and etch resistance. This patented technology creates a hard ( fumed silica used for increasing paint hardness) silica-like surface that provides superior resistance to damage caused by day-to-day use, car washes, and environmental hazards such as acid rain and tree sap. While this technology is currently employed as a two-component liquid clear coat, PPG is very close to commercializing a one-component version for use in automotive assembly plants.

This was the reasoning behind CeramiClear™ ® – [PPG Industries Inc (2004) ceramic clear coat is unmatched in scratch, surface marring and acid-etching resistance as well as gloss retention. Test results have shown that after a period of six months gloss retention shows an 80% improvement and acid-etching resistance is 50% better compared to that of a non-ceramic clear coat. They have also developed an aftermarket refinishing clear coat to provide approximately the same level of protection as the OEM ceramic clear coat.]

DuPont's SupraShield™, PPG's Optech™ and CeramiClear™ ® Clear Coat are all binary clear coat compositions using ceramic particles designed to offer long-term scratch resistance, gloss and durability and is applied as a final coating over a traditional clear coat, CeramiClear™ ® has an approximate thickness of 7.5 µ (0.5 Mil) this top layer also contains the paint systems ultra violet (UV ) protection.

[After the CeramiClear™ ® top coat is sprayed, the nano particles of Fumed Silica (SiO2), which are synthetically engineered, migrate to the top 5 µ (micron) (0.2 Mil) of the clear coat as it is curing.

If you remove this portion of the clear layer of paint, the paint under it will be much softer and will not polish out or react the same way the nano particle portion did or would] - Dr. David Ghodoussi

PPG CeramiClear™ ® Clear Coat now comes in two commercial versions: CeramiClear™, a two-component clear coat, and Certech, a single component clear coat.

PPG Industries have also developed an aftermarket refinishing clear coat to provide approximately the same level of protection as the OEM CeramiClear™ ® Clear Coat nanotechnology paint.

PPG Industries Inc and Menzerna collaborated in the formulation of an aftermarket abrasive polish specifically for removing surface imperfections like scratches and paint defects for the CeramiClear™ ® Clear Coat.

PPG introduced an OEM version of CeramiClear™ ®clear coat in 2003 for Mercedes-Benz. The refinish version of CeramiClear™ ®clear coat, D8126 for use with the Global Refinish System, was released the following year and won the Gold award at the International Grand Prix for Technical Innovation in Europe in 2005, recognizing expertise and technical excellence in the vehicle equipment sector.

Both versions of the refinish CeramiClear™ ®clear coat, Deltron DC4125 and D8126, perform to the same standards as the OEM finish. Both are unparalleled in scratch, mar and acid-etch resistance and retention of gloss," said Randy Cremeans, manager, collision segments, North America, for PPG Automotive Refinish. PPG's technical team in Allison Park, Pennsylvania, specifically developed tougher durability tests for OEM CeramiClear™, because no automotive coating had achieved this level of mar resistance before.

DC4125 is designated for use with PPG's DBC and DBU Refinish Systems, and it is designed for the repair of cars that have a CeramiClear™ ® OEM finish. High-solids clear, it meets all current VOC limits and is suitable for use in Southern California Districts. DC4125 is formulated for use with DCH4126 CeramiClear™ ®Hardener. (Source SpecialChem)

It is important to note that manufacturer-approved paint suppliers vary by country as each country (and even province/state) has their own environmental laws that collision centres must adhere to. For example in the UK, Standox, Spies Hecker, and BASF are the approved paint suppliers for Mercedes-Benz collision centres; in the US, it is PPG, BASF, and Standox. In Canada, only BASF and Standox are the approved paint suppliers and you will find only one or the other at any authorized Mercedes-Benz collision centre

Abrasive Polishing

Working with PPG, BASF and Mercedes Benz, Menzerna 2003 developed special polishes for use on PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat for removing scratches, swirls and paint defects Beyond superior abrasives, Menzerna has pioneered the development of polishes designed specifically for the hard clear coats, like those used by General Motors on the Corvette and PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat being used by Mercedes Benz. Super Intensive and Nanotechnology Polish are currently used by Mercedes - Benz in Germany on their production line to remove swirls and over-spray incurred during the painting process.

 A unique family of abrasives developed by Menzerna allows these polishes to remove defects, even on brand new paint finishes, with no loss of surface gloss and no micro-marring. The abrasives are just one factor in the equation; lubricants, solvents, emulsion and their carrier system will determine the actual functional ability of the polish

Super Intensive Polish (SIP), Power Finish (PO203S) and Nano Polish (FG4000) these polishes contain nanotechnology  ceramic micro particle diminishing abrasives, that are milled as fine as 0.3 µ (micron) and /also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% whereas the other polishes contain 3% abrasives

Beyond superior abrasives, Menzerna has pioneered the development of polishes designed specifically for the hard clear coats, like those used by General Motors on the Corvette and PPG CeramiClear™ ® Clear Coat being used by Ferrari and Mercedes- Benz.

Super Intensive and Nanotechnology Polish are currently used by Mercedes - Benz in Germany on their production line to remove swirls and over-spray incurred during the painting process. Some OEM paint specification require a dense (hard) clear coat paint- Audi, BMW, Nissan and VW and others

Modern automotive paint systems of whatever density pose unique challenges to the detailer, to determine the correct polish/and pad combination, machine methodology. This requires a ‘test panel’ to see how the selected polish set-up responses to the paint, and wither it will remove the surface scratches

Select a ‘typical’ 18 x 18 – inch area -one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and starting with the least abrasive polish and / pad combination and then proceed until the defects are removed.

This is the polish / pad combination you’ll need to use. Selecting the correct pad / polish combination for the vehicles paint / defects can take just as long as the paint correction process

Washing-up Liquids (Detergent)

Washing-up Liquids (Detergent)

The use of dish washing detergent to clean paint surfaces has been debated for years among car detailing enthusiasts.

A ‘reasoned argument’ is a series of statements that use evidence and reasoning to persuade someone to accept or reject a particular opinion. An opinion may be the result of a person's perspective, understanding and / or experience of the subject, or their specialised knowledge.

If someone offers a differing opinion it doesn’t negate the argument it just means they have a different opinion

Problems arise when people use dish washing liquid as their normal car wash soap. From a chemical standpoint using dishwashing detergents to clean a porous, sensitive clear coat paint surface is very poor choice. Dish washing detergents usually contain a sheeting agent (Alcohol alkoxylate or sodium) or other additive to avoid water spotting; along with emollients or moisturizers; these work by forming a thin protective coating on the surface of the skin to prevent any loss of moisture, this will leave a film on the paint surface.

Dawn specifically uses Ethyl Alcohol (Ethanol) as its main cleaning agent. Washing-up liquids should not be used on a regular basis for vehicles bodywork as they are formulated for use with hot water to remove grease

This is in no way a criticism in any way, as most of you do not have chemical backgrounds and have no other way of knowing besides what a marketing team tells you or what manufacturers put on their labels. I'm trying not to turn this into a chemistry lesson; just providing enough chemical information for you to make an informed decision

Notable brands of dishwashing liquid include Procter & Gamble’s Dawn®, which is the leading brand in the United States, and Fairy Liquid, which is the bestselling brand in the United Kingdom and similar type dish washing liquids chemistry relies primarily on detergent and surfactant technology. This type of chemistry has advanced to the point that it can be engineered to specific soils (i.e. organic grease)

Most stains found on a vehicle exterior are non-organic; hydrocarbons, hard water scale (calcium and magnesium) lime deposits, road tar, oil, and grease. Most car care protection products are formulated to be detergent resistant

Detergent and soap chemistry and product formulation is a lot more complicated than this, suffice it to say; modern car wash formulations are automotive soil specific. Almost every manufacturer of detergents uses salt as an ingredient, it increases viscosity making it easier to work with, and it also acts as filler, which lowers first costs. Quality car wash concentrates don’t formulate their products with salt as it drastically increases corrosion rates

Dishwashing liquids are a water- based mixture of surfactants. There are some additions to this which are mainly to do with stabilizing the product so it doesn't break down or separate out

As a means of paint surface preparation and the removal of wax / polymer sealants it’s not very effective as paint protection products are usually formulated to be detergent resistant. What I have observed repeatedly is the removal of water beading and sheeting. This is not removal of protection and it’s only temporary. This is in line with the products chemistry; surfactants bond to oils, this is how they work.

It was initially used by body shop detailer’s to remove traces of the oils from waxes commonly used on Nitrocellulose Lacquer paints, this is probably the reason some long established painters recommend its use a paint preparation product prior to using their sealants.

Advanced auto wash concentrates and paint cleaners are available and are better suited to cleaning paint surfaces. Modern clear coat is porous so I would not recommend using a dishwashing detergent such as Dawn® on a regular basis, as they contain both sodium and a degreaser, although most of them are approx pH 8.0 (although pH is not the only thing to consider when evaluating products)

The MSDS indicates that this product contains Ethyl alcohol (Ethanol) Sodium laureth sulphate a foaming agent, Dodecylbenzene sulphonic acid and sodium hydroxide; these salt crystals could be mildly abrasive when they 'come out' of the compound later and will then permeate the pant surface.

Almost every manufacturer of detergents uses sodium as an ingredient, it increases viscosity making it easier to work with, and it also acts as filler, which lowers first costs; the amount used and the dilution ratio (1oz per gallon) 1:128 would render these chemicals (sodium) virtually harmless.

Dawn specifically uses Ethyl Alcohol (Ethanol) as its main cleaning agent. Dish washing detergents usually contain a sheeting agent (Alcohol alkoxylate or sodium) or other additive to avoid water spotting; along with emollients or moisturizers; these work by forming a thin protective coating on the surface of the dishes or glassware and also to protect the skin to prevent any loss of moisture.

However emollients make the paint surface more difficult to dry and leave an oily residue on the paint surface, which may negatively affect .product cross-linking / bonding and will also negatively affect the surface reflectivity (Gloss)

Emollients have three basic properties: Occlusion - providing a layer of oil on the surface of the skin to slow water loss and thus increase the moisture content, Humectant - increasing the water-holding capacity of the stratum and Lubrication - adding a slip or glide across the objects being washed. Diethanolamides are to act as foaming agents or as emulsifiers

Generally you should avoid the use of household cleaning products for automotive detailing as they are formulated for an entirely different type of cleaning.

[Your car surface and the dirt that gets on it are a lot different from the food soils and dishes that dishwashing liquids clean effectively. We don't recommend them for cleaning your car] Proctor and Gamble

http://www.dawn-dish.com/en_US/questionsaboutdawn.do

LSP Removal

Dish washing liquids are water based mixture of surfactants and stabilizers so it doesn't break down. The surfactants within these products are used throughout the detergents industry. The product contains no harmful additions as it has to be food safe. In fact dish washing liquids are necessarily milder than many car wash concentrates, this should not surprise you, washing up liquids are designed for repeated and prolonged skin contact, hence the inclusion of emollients and moisturisers

Washing up liquids do not easily strip LSP, even when applied undiluted and agitated with a sponge or wash mitt, I think confusion arises due to the removal of water beading and / or sheeting; but this doesn’t mean the LSP has been removed. LSP contain oils, surfactants bond to oils, this is how they work. Most LSP’s are not actually simple oil and they are formulated to resist detergents, so they are much harder to remove.unless a safe solvent degreaser is used

Single Stage Paint

Although there are still some vehicles that have a single stage paint system (namely Black, White and Red) To confirm that you have single stage paint wipe an inconspicuous area using a mild solvent cleaner you'll see the vehicles paint colour on the cloth.

Care

Until proximally 1970, most cars were painted with solid colour paint as the only top coat layer in a 1-coat – 1-bake system. While initially these coatings were based on alkyd resins and were not very durable, later they came to be based on thermoplastic acrylic enamels, which had slightly better outdoor durability. At the same time, aluminium pigments were used to give a metallic effect. The durability was not sufficient, which then led to the introduction of base coat–clear coat as 2-coat– 1-bake systems.

The differences between a single stage paint system (base and a colour coat) and a urethane clear coat (base, colour and clear coat) finish is that the single stage paint is generally ‘softer’ and therefore easier to polish (this is due to the colour pigment used (i.e. White is very hard (Mohs - 7/10) - Black is softer (Mohs - 2/10) single-stage catalyzed urethane is harder than single-stage lacquer.

You’ll notice that the foam pad will pick up single stage paint colour i.e. on a black vehicle the foam pad will turn black, this is normal; it doesn’t mean you are removing all the paint. Using products that contain oils to provide a gloss is highly recommended 

Some manufactures still use a single stage paint systems, especially on red, white and black vehicles. Avoid (unless absolutely necessary) abrasive compounds and / or foam pads (use a Black (Finesse) pad for product application) use a chemical cleaner whenever possible (Zanio Fusion Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One) for surface polishing try the Optimum Hyper range of polishes

Single stage is usually less dense i.e. ‘soft paint’ and therefore easier to correct than clear coat, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish IMO single stage paint has a richer gloss than a clear coat finish

When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish..

Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.

Single stage paint stains very easily, remove with a 1:1 distilled white vinegar/ distilled water solution, if this non-abrasive solution doesn't remove them try a mild abrasive polish

The Optimum Hyper range of polishes, Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.

 For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage finish.

I hope these TOGWT Detailing Wiki articles will become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to the professionals; enthusiast detailer’s and industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge of detailing entry level enthusiast, but to professionals and industry experts as well.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141973-leather-articles-hyperlinks.html

Stainless steel renovation and polishing

In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% chromium content by mass.

Stainless steel also contains varying amounts of Carbon, Silicon and Manganese. Other elements such as Nickel and Molybdenum may be added to impart other useful properties such as enhanced formability and increased corrosion resistance. [1]

Stainless steel (more correctly stain resistant) is carbon based; it resists staining and does not rust in the true sense of the word. Rust or surface corrosion is when the surface finish becomes scaly or forms loose flakes and where the metal is actually disintegrating.

It is composed of a passive film of chromium oxide and nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide. This passive layer is subject to a chemical process; technically called oxidation, which is an electro mechanical process. Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels.

However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. 

Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel.

The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemicals; chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as road salt and bleach

Oxidation is an electrochemical process (sometimes called white metal corrosion) it can produce ‘rust spots’ if there are any ferrous metal (brake dust) particulates on the oxidized surface and they are exposed to moisture, but since this is simply a cosmetic condition, it is easily correctable.

There are over 150 different grades of stainless steel. The most commonly used is 304 grade stainless (more correctly stain resistant) steel, which usually contains sufficient chromium (a minimum of 13% by weight) to form a passive film of chromium oxide, which prevents further surface corrosion and blocks corrosion from spreading into the metal's internal structure but will not rust through for maybe a decade, although it may have surface rust. But since this is simply a cosmetic condition, it is correctable.  Stainless steel is welded by using a MIG welding process; the filler rods used in the welding process must be the same grade to maintain stainless steels integrity  

Stainless steel is welded by using a MIG welding process; the filler rods used in the welding process must be the same grade to maintain stainless steels integrity

The most commonly used are the 300 series stainless-304, also known as 18/8 for its composition of 18% chromium and 8% nickel and 316 commonly known as 18/10 stainless, a passive film of 18%chromium oxide and 10% nickel, forming a passive film of chromium oxide, which resists further surface oxidation, this usually lasts for years.

Stainless Steel Exhaust

Using steel wool will leave small particles of carbon steel fibres that become embedded in the surface, which will produce rust spots when they come into contact with moisture. Stainless steel is a ‘soft’ metal that is easily scratched, and  even #0000 synthetic steel wool (which doesn't contain carbon) will cause micro scratches

I suggest that you use 3M Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Delicate Extra Thick Surface Cleaning Pad with a metal polish (P21S Finish Restorer) to provide lubrication, to remove any surface rust.

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go

Innosoft B570 is a specialist deep cleaner developed for stainless steel, that has proven to be equally effective at removing oxidation and contamination on a wide variety of surfaces including aluminium, copper alloys, mild steel and chrome. Containing organic acids and a powerful detergent, it dissolves rust and dirt deposits on contact by penetrating deep into the surface of the metal.

Totally organic, it’s safe and environmentally-friendly way of removing rust and contamination from most metals. By eliminating the need of harsh chemicals that are traditionally used in rust removal, it helps protect both yourself and the planet.

You should also wipe down the exhaust tips and muffler cans and protect them with a polymer sealant or a coating product to maintain its appearance.

Discoloration is common to all stainless steel exhaust components, it’s caused by heat, which typically goes from a gold hue and then darken to a blue /brown. Blue-Job Chrome and Metal Polish has a unique non abrasive, highly concentrated, powder formula, guaranteed to remove bluing and add a long lasting shine, without scratching or dulling the finish surface. Blue-Job will leave your product brilliant, clean, dry and more resistant to future bluing or tarnishing.

1.      Clean surface with P21S Total Auto Wash

2.      Remove any road tar (bitumen) using Optimum Power Clean ™

3.      Use P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, a mild wheel cleaner that's pH balanced making it simple, gentle, and effective. Its primary function is to return metal to its stock finish. It will remove a lot of the tarnish from their finish, along with any other contaminants

4.      Finish with P21S Finish Restorer. 

For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go.

Metal Polishes

Custom blended polish to suit every metal polishing application. Metal polish for aluminium, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper or bronze - English Custom Polishing (ECP)

I suggest that you use White Scotch-Brite™ pad with some metal polish to provide lubrication, to remove any surface carbon or rust. You should also wipe down the exhaust tips and muffler cans and protect them with a polymer sealant to maintain their appearance

·         Aluminium Oxide - for chrome and stainless and is used to remove bluing from exhaust pipes, as well as general polishing.

·         Stainless Steel (coarse) - 400 grit finish to a reasonable mirror finish, for weathered or oxidized aluminium

·         Stainless Steel (fine) - an excellent second cut for producing a finer finish on stainless steel

·         Showman’s Blend stainless and aluminium finish polish

Use with Eastwood Company Cotton Buffers

Evapo- Rust  is Non-Hazardous, Non-Flammable, Biodegradable and is non-corrosive to steel and does not harm brass, copper, aluminium, gold, lead, titanium, steel, cast iron, chrome, solder points, vinyl, plastic, rubber, silicone, glass, cork, or wood.. On average, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of light to moderately rusted steel. Fully immerse the rusted item and check progress in about 30 minutes; no scrubbing necessary. Soak times will vary from 30 minutes to 24 hours depending on severity of rust, type of steel, and temperature.

P21S Finish Restorer – for any metal with or without a clear coat that is faded, oxidized, water marked, burnt, and dirty or has a build-up of brake dust.  This metal polishes deep cleansing formula helps release some of the most difficult build ups. Even on surfaces that look brand new you'll be amazed at how this polish works beneath the surface and removes hard to see contamination. Clean the surface using P21S Polishing Soap and then proceed with the Finish Restorer. For really tough stains apply Optimum Metal Polish with a White Scotch-Brite™ pad. It is very important to clean as you go.

Residual polish should be removed from around rivet or screw heads and from seams as the polishing project progresses. If it dries on it is very difficult to remove. One way to do this is to use a solvent to wipe the surface. The best solvent I have found is isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or mineral spirits as they evaporates slowly and generates fewer toxic fumes. Best method is to use a micro fibre towel to wipe the solvent off and dry the surface

Using cornstarch rather than solvents for cleaning is very effective and eliminates the need to deal with a solvent. Use the micro fibre towel (a terry-cloth towel will provide more abrasion if required) with cornstarch rather than solvents.  It works very well on fresh polish, however if it has dried it generally requires a solvent to remove it. TOTL

First ascertain the type of metal; aluminium, stainless steel, chromium plated or brass? Always use a metal polish specifically formulated for the metal you are trying to polish. OEM’s offer more than one metal type so read the label carefully and when in doubt check with the manufacturer

Alkaline reacts with metals like un-coated aluminium, tin and zinc; this may result to liberation of combustible hydrogen gas and damage to the aluminium.  As always use caution and check the proposed products MSDS

Lower grade Stainless- Use Barkeeper's Friend as it contains Oxalic Acid, which re-pacifies stainless steel.

I hope these TOGWT Detailing Wiki articles will become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to the professionals; enthusiast detailer’s and industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge of detailing entry level enthusiast, but to professionals and industry experts as well.

Once you realize how much you don’t know; only then will you be willing to research and enhance your knowledge and understanding

TOGWT Detailing Wiki articles -  http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141973-leather-articles-hyperlinks.html

Towel Cleaning / Care

 Micro Fibre Towels

Three types of energy are required;

1.  Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner

2. Mechanical energy - (agitation) provide by machine or hand

3. Thermal energy -provided by warm or hot water; heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension.

Before using any towels for the first time;

·         Remove labels / tags

·         Check for towel colour fastness before washing

·         Wash towels before using to remove chemical sizing (used to plump up fibres)

·         Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore high efficiency (HE) washer safe) without softener, bleach, whiteners.

A Microfiber towel is made from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre) and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre), these microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave, the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids

Be cognizant that although most of us consider Microfiber to be almost indestructible it needs proper care to ensure it keeps working the way it should and to maintain its durability.  The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids and chemicals (solvents, wax, polymers, and etc).

The detergent used to clean them must be strong enough to remove the chemicals without harming the fibres. The methods used for towel drying are equally important, high heat plus the agitation of an automatic dryer can round the edges of the microscopic hooks, rendering them ineffective

HE Washing Machine

Before using Washing Machine

To ensure that the washing machine has no residual detergent or fabric softener; rise the machine drum with a 1:3 solution of washing liquid (with no bleach) / distilled white vinegar, clean about every 2-3 months

Car care products can get left behind in the drum; so run a cleaning cycle before and another once you’ve finished washing your micro fibre towels, using hot water, some liquid detergent and distilled white vinegar.

(HE) Washing Machine Maintenance

Wash towels on hottest setting (sanitary cycle, max time, extra rinse) Modern high-efficiency washer’s use less water and seal more tightly than older, less-efficient machines, these washers are more prone to residue build-up. To address this issue, Whirlpool pioneered the development of Affresh tablets, a simple, powerful and universal solution. All brands of HE washing machines have the potential for mould and mildew stains if not properly cleaned on a regular basis.

To ensure maximum performance, appliance manufacturers recommend a monthly maintenance and cleaning routine. Many cleaning products currently on the market with ingredients such as bleach adequately maintain the washer, but results may vary and are not always consistent.

Used every 4-8 weeks (dependent upon machine usage) it will prevents odour-causing residues from accumulating, although heavily soiled washers may require repeated treatments to remove traces of odour and residue. In this case, Whirlpool recommends running three successive washer cleaning cycles with an Affresh tablet in each.

Wash Towels after use

Always wash towels as soon as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the contaminants will set. The chemicals used in car care products will negatively affect the fibres structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful life. Residual chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will cause scratches.

Do not use bleach or high alkaline cleaning products as they will shorten the life of your micro fibre.  Read the label on the detergent bottle and use half of what they recommend and use hot water (120.^oF)

Do not wash different types of towels together. And always wash each colour separately; never wash white towels with colours.

Glass Drying Towels

Towels used for cleaning glass should always be washed separately to ensure there is no cross contamination of oils, waxes and etc as this is the one of the causes of glass streaking

Washing – use these towels exclusively for glass and wash them with hot water (no detergents) and one cup vinegar (Heinz® All Natural Cleaning Vinegar) the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Any kind of laundry soap will leave residue that remains in the micro-fibre, which will then leave streaks, smears or haze.

Rinsing – after washing them in vinegar, re-wash with just clean water ... just to be 100% sure there's no soap residue in the micro-fibres use baking soda (Church and Dwight Arm & Hammer™) add 1/2 cup to the rinse cycle to freshen towels

Drying

Air dry or use low heat machine dry

Refresh Towels

Over time, towels build up detergent residue, leaving them unable to absorb as much water. Refresh them by washing them once with hot water and one cup vinegar, then a second time with hot water and half cup sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO₃) or baking soda (Church and Dwight - Arm & Hammer™). This strips the residue and leaves them fresh and restores their absorbency.

Lint

Nothing removes lint out of the towel (new or used) better than a few spin dryer cycles. Washing also makes your new towels softer and more absorbent. A good first wash formula is 1 cup of distilled white vinegar with a half cup of detergent. This will help release lint, break towels in, and keep them fresh. It is also useful to soak new towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with a half cup of detergent.

Washer Loading

Do not overload the machine, use just enough for a good medium sized load, and remember that micro fibre towels hole ~ seven times its weight of water, so by using too many they will not be cleaned effectively. A large washing machine can   usually accommodate 35 – 40 medium sized towels

Washing / Care Directions

Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing dwell time. Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in soil, agitation or hand rubbing helps pull the soil free. This concentrated aqueous formula is a special blend of surfactants, emulsifiers, chelating agents and water softeners.

Pre-Soak Towels

Micro fibre towels can "load-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness. Don't let polish residues dry in the fibres as dried hardened product can cause scratches and product chemicals can negatively affect the fibres

Once you have finished detailing with the towel, allow it to soak in a bucket with approx 0.5 oz per gallon water and a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner P21S®® Total Auto Wash. Or use Optimum Power Clean™ diluted 2:1 (or stronger) with distilled water) or a micro fibre detergent (Micro-Restore).

This will make it easier to clean and prolong the life of the towel as any chemicals that could potentially harm the fibres are removed sooner, keep in mind that excessive use of powerful degreasers may eventually damage the fabric. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, machine-wash and leave to air-dry

·         Wash / Rinse after using and before you use a different product (i.e. don’t use to remove polish and then apply wax) to avoid cross contamination

·         Always wash towels separately from other fabrics using hot water, the primary consideration is detergent residue so always use a detergent that is clean-rinsing

·         Wash drying towels separate from wax/polish towels

·         Washing your towels on a regular basis without allowing them get too soiled, they will last much longer

·         Some detergents contain enzymes, which don't work well in cold water.

·         Woolite® is intended for delicate fabrics and fine washables such as lingerie and cashmere sweaters, so it won’t remove polish or car care products

·         Soak towels in Sodium carbonate (also known as washing soda or soda crystals) or Optimum Power Clean™ as it  effectively removes oil and  grease

·         As a pre-spotter: dilute 1 part concentrates with 3 parts hot water, apply to stain and launder as usual.

·         Do not overload washer or dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres to weaken and lint

·         Waxes and polymer sealants are not water soluble; they dry and adhere to the towels fibres. Cold water will simply allow them to remain in a solid state and not completely wash off.

·         Hot water, however, allows them to soften and loosen from the threads and allows the detergent to act as it should and lift the contaminants from the fabric. 

Use medium heat, 104 .^oF (40.^o C)  and add 1-2 ounces to a standard size (8 gallon) load, for larger loads or heavily soiled laundry

·         Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore high efficiency (HE) washer safe) without softener, bleach, whiteners.

·         If possible buy the versions that are perfume and additive free as all these do is chemically coat the fabric and reduce its efficiency. 

·         Using half the washing detergents manufacturers suggested amount is usually sufficient

·         During the rinse cycle add 1-tsb per towel white distilled vinegar (acetic acid that  once diluted with water, the acid content is approximately 3-4% of the total solutions) this will help dissolve detergent and hard water minerals. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH=2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the opposite of acidic on the pH scale).

When you wash your towels (or anything for that matter) there are small amounts of detergent left behind, when your add Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution and helps removes the excess detergent from the wash.

·         Do not use fabric softeners (includes both liquid and dryer sheet type fabric softeners) as they deposit chemicals (silicone, etc) on the fabric and render them ineffective. These chemicals will also transfer to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.

·         Clean the lint screen before and after every wash session

Over time you may find your micro fibre’s effectiveness decreases, despite following all of the above guidelines, this may be due to wax / polish build-up. To remedy try one of the following -

1.      Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, except this time open the lid and let it soak overnight. In the morning, close the lid and let the cycle finish.

2.      Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, but instead of laundry detergent, add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the load (assuming a medium to full size load). Run the cycle normally

3.      If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and release the fibres. Drain the water before removing the towel(s) otherwise residues will be re-deposited (melting point Polymer / Polyester 490. °F (255. °C).

Stubborn dirt – soak overnight in a solution of hot water and P21S®® Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean ™) Be cognizant that towels do not have a finite  life; at some point the only remedy is replacement

Micro-Restore - because most detergents and laundry soaps have some form of optical fabric brighteners (Z)-Stilbene or fabric softener included in their formulas. Over time bleach breaks down the micro-fibres, and fabric softeners clog the microscopic pours that make microfiber so effective, rendering the microfiber product less effective with each washing.

Micro-Restore is superior for treating, cleaning and preparing microfibers because it is a powerful degreaser strong detergent with the absence of bleach and fabric softeners, it also breaks down heavy wax, oil and grease.

It will extend the life of your microfiber, due to its special blend of chelating agents, surfactants, and builders will more effectively remove the heavy residue (wax, oil, grease, break dust, and other chemicals) that becomes implanted in microfiber products. This product doesn’t contain any harsh chemicals that could be detrimental to HE washing machines

Directions: Add 2 ounces to standard size (8 gallon) loads. For larger loads or heavily soiled laundry, add 3-6 ounces. As a pre-spotter; us a 1:3 distilled water solution.

Towel Storage

I would recommend storing clean / dry towels into a sealed dust-free environment whilst not in use. Lidded plastic storage boxes are ideal in this respect like those rubber/plastic ones with the snap on lids. You can also store clean / dry towels in a Ziploc® Brand Storage Bag. Worth repeating store DRY towels only, otherwise they will attract mould fungus

Debris Caught in Fibres

Micro fibre towels are designed to hold onto various types of contaminants that can scratch a prized car; they need to be inspected after each washing, especially if there is any chance they might have been dropped or picked up some tree particles from the car. You could try using a tack cloth to pick out small particulates from the fibres. Even if your towels have never been dropped, if you wash them with towels that have, debris is potentially inside the washing machine drum

Lint or Fibre Shedding

Quality Microfiber towels are split to produce millions of tiny fibre “hooks" on the surface of the towel. If the weave is too broad or the pile is too high, some of these fibres break off when the towel is used. Fibre shedding can be caused by a myriad of factors and it’s not an uncommon to experience, if a towel starts to shed fibres excessively then there is a problem that should be resolved

This can be excessive if the manufacturer is trying to produce an inexpensive, split towel and is using a wide weave to reduce the amount of Polyester / Polyamide in the towel (the most common ration 70 /30%) Washing the towels before being used will help alleviate problem lint, also clean the lint screen before and after every wash session (See “Washing / Care Directions)

Do not overload washer or dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres to weaken and lint, the mechanical agitation of a tumble dryer may cause the fibres to weaken and cause them to break free or lint. Given the above, over time towels will lint

Nothing will remove lint out of a new towel better than a few spin cycles in the dryer. Washing also makes your towels softer and more absorbent.

Remember to clean the lint trap before and after each drying cycle. A good wash formula is 1 cup of white vinegar with ½ cup of detergent. This will help release lint, break the towels in, and keep them fresh.

It is also useful to soak new towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with ½ of detergent. Keep in mind that colour dyed towels, because of chemical penetration into the fibre, are less absorbent than non-dyed towels.

Drying

Air dry or use low / medium heat in a tumble dryer, adding two ‘Dryer Ball’ will help plump up the fibres, when they are ‘almost’ dry remove and allow to air dry, shake and then fold them for storage’ Some towels with bound edges are not suitable to be high heat dried, typically those with satin or stitched edges as they tend to shrink, pulling the towelling fabric

Notes:

1.      Lint or fibre shedding – a dryer ball (Life Miracle® Dryer System™) seem to help as they fluff up the fibres and lessen the static that is the main cause of Microfibers trapping lint. Lint may also be trapped in the machine’s lint screen and its being transferred o the towel.

2.      For problematic wax only towels - try using very cold water to make the solidified wax brittle, then wash with hot again.

3.      Mixing Fabrics - Do not wash micro fibre cloths / towels with other non- micro fibre fabrics, as they will pick up lint from other fabrics. Air dry or you can dry micro fibre cloths / towels in any dryer on low heat, remove them before they are still damp (cuts down on static charge) Colours may bleed during first washing

4.      Static – to avoid static build-up remove towels from machine while they are still a little damp and air-dry

5.      Melting point - of polyester 480 – 570.^OF (250-300°C) so hot drying will not harm its fibres

Fabric Softeners

Do not use fabric softener (most contain silicone that the towel will adsorb and clog the fibres thereby reducing their effectiveness) fabric softeners work by coating the surface of the cloth fibres with a thin layer of chemicals, a towel will also treat the fabric softener as if it was dirt by trying to store the tiny particles of the softener in the towel fibres. This will clog up the fibres and render the towel ineffective.

Add a teaspoon per towel distilled white vinegar in place of a softener in the final rinse cycle, the vinegar instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Do not use vinegar in every wash as it is a cationic (hydrogen ions bind to the anionic groups on the fibres) the disadvantage of coating fibres by hydrophobic layer is in decreasing the absorption properties of the fabric.

Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the opposite of acidic on the pH scale).When you wash your towels (or anything for that matter) there are small amounts of detergent left behind, when you add Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution and helps removes the excess detergent from the wash.

 Streaking or Non-Absorbent

·         This could be due to the polymers used in quick detailers (QD) or drying aid sprays, use vinegar in the final rinse

·         If a micro fibre towel tends to ‘streak’ or is no longer absorbent; boil the towels in water / distilled white vinegar (1/4-cup / gal) solution for at least 20 minute, this will soften the fibres, and release any wax / polish residue. This will also release any lint, which will actually come to the surface of the water.

·         Pre-soak in a liquid detergent / water and then squeeze out wax/polish with your hands and rinse thoroughly.

·         Allow micro fibre towels to boil for twenty (20) minutes (ensure that water does not fully evaporate) you will find that more wax / polish residue comes out even after a towel has been thoroughly washed.

Empty out the water and then remove the towel, don't do it the other way or you'll re-introduce residue to the towel

The melting point of nylon is ~ 493.^oF (256 °C) so boiling will not harm its fibres (however high heat may affect the material used for binding the edges)

Relevant Articles

1.      TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki articles - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136815-togwt%AE-detailing-articles-index-hyperlinks.html

I hope these TOGWT Detailing Wiki articles will become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to the professionals; enthusiast detailer’s and industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge of detailing entry level enthusiast, but to professionals and industry experts as well.