Hand Exercises to alleviate Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI)

Hand Exercises to alleviate Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) - Jon Miller - Certified Personal Trainer American Council on Exercise (ACE)

Repetitive strain injury (RSI) also known as occupational overuse syndrome is an injury of the musculoskeletal and nervous systems that may be caused by repetitive tasks, forceful exertions, vibrations, mechanical compression (pressing against hard surfaces), or sustained or awkward positions

            What is repetitive strain injury?

The term repetitive strain injury (RSI) is used to describe a range of painful conditions of the muscles, tendons and other soft tissues. It is mainly caused by repetitive use of part of the body. It is usually related to a job or occupation, that may be caused by repetitive tasks, forceful exertions, vibrations, mechanical compression (pressing against hard surfaces), or sustained or awkward positions.

Symptoms can include: pain, tightness, dull ache, throbbing, numbness, or tingling in the affected area. The symptoms tend to develop gradually. At first the symptoms may only occur whilst you do the repetitive task and ease off when you rest. In time the symptoms can be present all the time, but tend to be made worse by doing the repetitive task. Symptoms can range from mild to severe.

Exercises

Consult a physician or your medical practitioner before you undertake any regime of exercise. You can make changes to your working environment and how you work by examining what you do and how you do it, and modifying the activity causing the problem. If you can, carry on working but reduce the amount of time you spend on the activity that causes the pain. If you can't stop doing it completely, take regular short breaks to stretch and flex your arms and hands.

The key to recovery from an injury is to know your limitations without exceeding them. Any form of exercise that doesn’t include excess will help and should be done under professional supervision

Make a Fist

You can do this easy exercise anywhere, and any time your hand feels stiff. Start by holding your left hand up straight. Then, slowly bend your hand into a fist, placing your thumb on the outside of your hand. Be gentle—don’t squeeze your hand. Open your hand back up until your fingers are straight once again. Do the exercise 10 times with the left hand. Then repeat the whole sequence with the right hand.

Finger Bends

Start in the same position as in the last exercise, with your left hand held up straight. Bend your thumb down toward your palm. Hold it for a couple of seconds. Straighten your thumb back up.

Then bend your index finger down toward your palm. Hold it for a couple of seconds. Then straighten it. Repeat with each finger on the left hand. Then repeat the entire sequence on the right hand.

7 Hand Exercises to Ease Painful Hands

Thumb Bend

First, hold your left hand up straight. Then, bend your thumb inward toward your palm. Stretch for the bottom of your pinky finger with your thumb. If you can’t reach your pinky, don’t worry. Just stretch your thumb as far as you can. Hold the position for a second or two, and then return your thumb to the starting position. Repeat 10 times. Then do the exercise with your right hand.

Make an “O”

Start with your left hand pointing straight up. Then, curve all of your fingers inward until they touch. Your fingers should form the shape of an “O.” Hold this position for a few seconds. Then straighten your fingers again. Repeat this exercise a few times a day on each hand. You can do this stretch whenever your hands feel achy or stiff

Table Bend

Place the pinky-side edge of your left hand on a table, with your thumb pointed up. Holding your thumb in the same position, bend the other four fingers inward until your hand makes an “L” shape. Hold it for a couple of seconds, and then straighten your fingers to move them back into the starting position. Repeat 10 times, and then do the same sequence on the right hand.

Finger Lift

Place your left hand flat on a table, palm down. Starting with your thumb, lift each finger slowly off the table—one at a time. Hold each finger for a second or two, and then lower it. Do the same exercise with every finger of the left hand. After you’re done with the left hand, repeat the entire sequence on the right hand

Wrist Stretch

Don’t forget about your wrists, which can also get sore and stiff from arthritis. To exercise your wrist, hold your right arm out with the palm facing down. With your left hand, gently press down on the right hand until you feel a stretch in your wrist and arm. Hold the position for a few seconds. Repeat 10 times. Then, do the entire sequence with the left hand.

Wrist Exercises

Prayer Stretch

Stand with palms together and elbows out. Slowly lower wrists until a stretch is felt, hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.

Wrist Flexion/Extension

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off the table, bend wrist down until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position. Bend wrist up until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.

Wrist Deviations

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off the table, slowly turn hand to side. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position. Turn hand to other side. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.

Finger Flexion/Extension

Extend fingers open as far as possible. Hold for 5 seconds. Make a fist as tight as possible. Hold for 5 seconds.

Wrist Flexor Stretch

With arm resting on table and hand hanging off table and elbow straight, slowly grab injured hand and slowly bend wrist up until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to starting position.

Wrist Extensor Stretch

With arm resting on a table and hand hanging off the table and elbow straight, slowly grab the injured hand and slowly bend the wrist down until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly return to the starting position.

Supination/Pronation

With resting arm next to body, palm out and sown in front, turn hands up until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and slowly turn hand down until a stretch is felt. Hold for 5 seconds and return to starting position

Wrist Stretch Exercise

With hand open and facing down, move wrist from side to side, until stretch is felt at each extreme.Hold each for slow count of 10.

OTC Medication

Medications are often used to treat acute and chronic low back pain. Effective pain relief may involve a combination of prescription drugs and over-the-counter (OTC) remedies. Over-the-counter analgesics, including no steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (aspirin, naproxen, and ibuprofen), are taken orally to reduce stiffness, swelling, and inflammation and to ease mild to moderate low back pain.

Patients should always check with a doctor before taking drugs for pain relief. Certain medicines, even those sold over the counter, may conflict with other medications, may cause side effects including drowsiness, or may lead to liver damage.

Information

1.       WebMD - http://www.webmd.com

2.       Relieve Back Pain With Core Strength Training,  by Gina Shaw  and  Michael W. Smith, MD

3.       ACE Kick-Start Workout - http://www.acefitness.org/article/2850

4.       Various articles and newsletters,  American Council on Exercise (ACE)

Relevant Articles

Exercises to alleviate Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI), by Jon Miller - Certified Personal Trainer American Council on Exercise (ACE)

Copyright © 2002-2013, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Pre-Treatment Procedures

Some stains are more easily removed with a pre-treatment; but first ensure that the chosen cleaner does not have a negative effect on the material i.e. does not cause colour change. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

There are two basic approaches to removing spots and stains. You can use a stain-removal agent that interacts with the stain chemically, or you can physically loosen or remove the stain from the surface. Many stubborn stains require both chemical and physical treatment.

Brushing is used to remove dried stains and spots. Flushing is used to remove loosened staining materials and any residue from the stain-removal agent. This is an important step in the process, for if any chemicals are left in the material, they may cause additional staining or they may damage the treated article.

Pre-treating is used to ease the removal of small stains, especially those that are oily or greasy. Stubborn soil is easier to remove after it's been pre-treated.

Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. The correct philosophy regarding chemical use is this:  “only use chemicals for what they were formulated for”.

Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. 

Road Traffic Film Removal

Oil, grease and other fluids that leak from vehicles onto the road, along with road grit and melted road tar and lane marking paint accumulate on roads and highways over time. When it rains this accumulated residue is sprayed onto the paint surface using water as a carrier system as oil and water do not mix. The highest concentration of road traffic film accumulates on your wheels, tyres and lower body panels.

When rain and surface water washes away all the water soluble components of traffic film contaminants, what remains are just the non-water soluble parts on the vehicle’s paintwork. Ultra violet (UV) radiation adheres and then cures these contaminants onto the surface. Most of the particulates are either metallic, or contain a metallic element and bear a positive electrical charge. Conversely, the exterior of most vehicles are negatively charged. Hence, these traffic film contaminants have a strong magnetic attraction to each other

Washing your car will remove most accumulated soiling, but normal car washing won't remove road traffic film (RTF). Auto paint is porous and this film will permeate and cause the paint to become opaque, dulling the colour.

          Correction - the best way to remove RTF is by using a chemical paint cleaner, something slightly alkaline or a d-limonene solvent / detergent (P21S® Paintwork Cleanse) or for more stubborn staining Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Strong, which will remove any road film that normal car washing could not

           Note: Be cognizant that some Traffic Film Remover products are meant for heavy commercial / construction type vehicle and are highly alkaline.

 These commercial traffic film removers are usually used with high pressure washers and are formulated with high concentrations of hazardous solvents that may help to remove the dirt but can damage the vehicles paintwork over time

Removing Calcium spots (Lime scale) from an indoor parking garage

Concentrated calcium or Lime scale

Often from an indoor parking garage, is caused by the concrete being cross-linked with water and calcium leaching out from the concrete, dissolving calcium hydroxide from the matrix. On contact with the atmosphere the calcium hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide to form calcium carbonate and drips down from the level above onto the paint surface producing a surface stain. 

When water drips off of concrete and onto your vehicle's paint, it brings with it a tiny bit of calcite and mineral deposits, and sometimes rust deposits causing an orange red stain from the concretes steel reinforcement (rebar), which dries on the paint when the water evaporates, leaving a light coloured streak that is not miscible. These types of stains should be removed as soon as possible

Correction- (a) to remove the lime residue from glass, carefully remove with a plastic razor blade

(b) Lime on paint or plastic can be removed with a weak acid chemical cleaner if caught early, use a 1:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid) or try 3D Products 3D Eraser –made from biodegradable ingredients (Phosphoric Acid 10 – 15%, Deionized Water 80-85%) that will not harm your vehicles surfaces and if used as directed, it’s also environmentally safe. Use with very fine #0000 synthetic steel wool, for eliminating water spots on glass. Super fine synthetic steel wool works best for removing water spots from car windows. Do not leave on for long and apply in shade. The Gel like consistency prevents the solution from running down your car surface.

(c ) To remove any surface etching use a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound)and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn't remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

MSDS - http://www.3dproducts.com/msds/105W_Eraser.pdf

Bird excrement; the most damaging environmental pollutants

 Bird excrement surface etching

                                            Bird excrement etching (highly magnified)


Bird Excrement Consists of [: Uric acid, C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid, thus in strong alkali at high pH it forms the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid] [1] 

Water solubility of uric acid and its alkali metal and alkaline earth salts is rather low 

 [: the property of a solid, liquid, or gaseous chemical substance called solute to dissolve in a solid, liquid, or gaseous solvent to form a homogeneous solution of the solute in the solvent]

Cause - the different types of food ingested by birds affect the composition and quantity of droppings. Chemical aggression on the paint surface is caused by strong organic acids acting for an extended period and exposed to high temperatures and moisture (reactivity).

One of the most serious threats to a paint surface; it's not only disgusting - it's a toxic hazard. Bird excrement contains unpleasant fungi, including Histoplasma capsulatum and Cryptococcus neoformans as well as bacteria, including Chlamydophila psittaci. Migratory birds, especially seagulls are known to spread hard-to-treat infections as they can carry antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

These are known to cause pneumonias as well as systemic infections. Various forms of encephalitis are also associated with bird droppings, so avoid direct skin contact.

Unlike mammals, birds don't urinate; their kidneys extract nitrogenous wastes from the bloodstream, but instead of excreting it as urea dissolved in urine, they excrete it in the form of uric acid. Uric acid, being nearly water insoluble, exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste. That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances are that you so often see on the sides of buildings and splattered on vehicle surfaces, which  if left on the surface and is then subjected to reactivity it will result in an indentation in the surface (etching) around the periphery

Bird excrement is one of the most damaging environmental pollutants as they relate to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.

Reactivity

[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]

Be cognizant that an acid is inert until it comes into contact with moisture; any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc) the more aggressive the acid becomes.

Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen molecule that causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface it should be noted that until this acid is neutralised subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it

 This will cause surface etching (an indentation of the clear coat) so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles.  At lower temperatures (> 40.^oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.

As urethane clear coat paint is heated by ultra violet radiation, it both softens and expands that same heat dries and solidifies the bird excrement on the paint surface. Once the paint protection product fractures (reaches its melting point) it is no longer able to withstand the acids, which allows them to quickly penetrate the paint matrix.

This will cause surface etching, so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. The longer the excrement remains on the paint surface, and the higher the temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint surface damage

At lower temperatures (> 40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no surface etching

Catalyzed hydrolytic degradation

Definition [: the damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving completely. Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena]

Be cognizant that there are no polymers or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.

Paint protection

Most natural contaminants are hydrophilic in nature including bird poop. Automotive clear coats are generally based on urethanes, acrylics, melamine’s, silanes, etc. which are hydrophobic and repel water and other contaminants initially. However as the paint surface gets oxidized environmental contaminants will bond to the surface. Polishing the paint surface removes the oxidized layer and makes the paint surface hydrophobic again for a short period of time.

Waxes (Carnauba and synthetic) as well as polymer sealants might not offer much protection against bird droppings, they will make the surface hydrophobic and minimize bonding of the contaminants to paint. This can help reduce the damage from bird poop and make removal of the contaminants much easier. Besides being very acidic, bird droppings contain enzymes which can break down C-C linkages in automotive paint (See also this article “.Nanotechnology and other Coatings”)

Note: some of the newer coating products rely on a configuration Si-C (SiO2) bond, which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C (copolymer) configuration used in polymer sealants. Due to the applied coating thickness they are more resistant to the acids found in excrement than a polymer sealant. Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as possible.  However, if there is any staining left behind, do not polish it, as this will remove the coating, since the stains are not a sign of etching and usually they are on top of Opti-Coat and can break down/disappear after a few days.

Food Sources

Their main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)

Birds use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds (owls, hawks, etc hunt and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight bone fragments, sand and grit are some of the major components, which can cause scratching.

Excrement removal

Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush residue, as they usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will seal in the acid and not allow it to dissipate.

Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed as quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and heat.

•          Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.

•          1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

•          Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant

•          Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell ®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

An automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst (reactivity) each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and erode the paint matrix

Type of Surface Damage

Identify the type of damage (Type I Surface staining or Type II Surface etching (a concave indentation) Ultra violet (UV) radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or alkali should be neutralized (See Acid / Alkali Neutralization)

Verification of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed through the use of a 30X magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint surface ASAP; proceed by using the least abrasive products first

Type I [is an off-white non-transparent ‘clouded’ stain] that if left for any length of time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (become non-transparent) this is usually inherent with a light surface stain.

The paint will usually become stained as soon as the excrement has dried. Providing it is removed quickly and hasn't been subjected to reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint

1.      Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2.      Use ValuGuard Acid Neutraliser (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3.      Try to dissolve the surface/etched deposits trying one or more of the following;

a)      Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b)      Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)      Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

4.      Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave indentation) around its perimeter] this is usually the result of a stain that has been on the surface for a while and has been subjected to reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which produces an acid that etches the paint surface. After the excrement has dried the acid will begin to corrode the paint surface, this corrosion accelerates once moisture and heat (reactivity) is added, it may take minutes or up to an hour for it to etch the paint surface

1.      Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2.      Use ValuGuard Acid Neutraliser (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3.      Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules

4.      Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

5.      For PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish

6.      Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

7.      Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper and polish with a finishing polish

8.      Apply a paint protection

Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface. Once it softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking

Use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this will soften debris and allow it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge

Protection

Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish are all acid-based, acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic o they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.

Optimum Opti-Coat™ is based on a resin pre-polymer that uses a configuration of (Si 14) (SiO₂ -silica) bond, which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer sealants. As a consequent it is more resistant to the acids found in bird excrement. It forms ceramic bonds at very high temperatures and will not be damaged by extreme heat and therefore resists oxidation.

Opti-Coat has better resistance to chemicals (acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive coating currently in use. This coating  has a 2-4 µ (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint

Far beyond washing, cleaning and detailing your automobile inside and out, the best preservative action you can take is to cover the car with a car cover. It provides the best protection against industrial fallout (IFO) dust, dirt; ultra violet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation; bird excrement and windblown debris (See also Car Cover Section)

Aves bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap bird and insect excrement, dry surface dust, or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches (check contents periodically as heat will evaporate the contents if stored in the car’s trunk)..

Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn stains, soak the micro fibre towel and allow it to remain in n place for a few minutes and then wipe away the debris.

Caution - Dispose of any towels or wipes used to remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash your hands, as bird lime can harbour diseases

Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and moisture). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then apply a paint protection.

Excrement Removal

Be cognizant that the longer the deposit remains on the bodywork and the higher the ambient temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint damage. This type of damage can only be prevented by motorists remaining vigilant and removing the deposit as this pollutant can have a serious negative impact on your paint finish if not removed safely and expediently. Also be aware there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance although they will make them easier to remove

Use the least abrasive product first-

1.      Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2.      Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a)      Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b)      Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c)      Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3.      Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4.      Use detailing clay to remove any 'hard' surface granules

5.      Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or  Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6.      For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7.      Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8.      Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Bibliography

1.                  Alma Heritage Science – Uric acid from bird droppings

2.                  Effects of Environmental Conditions on Degradation of Automotive Coatings, a paper by Mohsen Mohseni, Bahram Ramezanzadeh and Hossain Yari

3.                  Bond Disassociation Energies in Organosilicon Compounds, a paper by Robin Walsh

4.                  Polymer Basics DoITPoMS - University of Cambridge

Relevant Articles

1.      “Acid / Alkali Neutralization” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/140032-acid-base-alkali-neutralization.html#post1489787

2.      “Detailer’s Clay” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/137637-detailers-clay.html#post1459468

3.      “Environmental Damage” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/136393-environmental-damage.html#

4.       “Nanoskin Surface Prep Towel” -  http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141207-nanoskin-surface-prep-towel.html

5.       “ValuGard Paint Decontamination System” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141242-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html

6.       “What will decontamination remove that washing / clay will not? “ - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136545-what-will-decontamination-remove-washing-will-not.html

7.      “Why use a wax on top of a polymer sealant?” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136406-why-use-wax-top-polymer-sealant.html