Removal of Road Salt

Undercarriage Cleaning and Care 

Road salt and grit helps people travel safely, it provides traction and melts ice but it has drawbacks. It can cause major body and undercarriage damage to your vehicles.

Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don't see that silently wait underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.

Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.F (9 – 29.C ) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint and undercarriage. Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2) attracts moisture from the air making it more aggressive than salt because it is active even when “dry”. Magnesium Chloride is basically ‘liquid rust’. It clings to everything and it attracts moisture – and it does not wash off easily”.

Removal of Road Salt

Although salt is inert when subjected to freezing (15 – 20. oF) it’s considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow/ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the saline solution(salt/water) will have an adverse effect on the vehicles paint and undercarriage.

When washing the vehicle ensure that all salt is removed to avoid a saline solution remaining on the paint finish. Using a durable protection (Collinite Insulator Wax) will provide a sacrificial and renewable protection to the vehicles paint finish. Do not dilute, ValuGard Rust Inhibitor can  be spray applied 

The salts (often mixed with grit / sand for tyre adhesion) commonly used are;

(a) Sodium chloride (NaCl) the most common salt used

(b) Calcium chloride (CaCl2) works at lower temperatures than sodium chloride.

(c) Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) is the name for the chemical compounds and its various hydrates MgCl2 (H2O) x.

These salts are typical ionic halides, being highly soluble in water. This compound forms a crystalline film on the body and the windows of vehicles that is difficult to wash off. It draws moisture from the air and the residue on the vehicle becomes actively corrosive at humidity rates below 25 percent.

Although salt is inert when subjected to freezing (15 – 20. oF) it’s considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow/ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the saline solution(salt/water) will have an adverse effect on the vehicles paint and undercarriage.

Magnesium chloride is very effective even at the lowest temperatures but also contains the most aggressive corrosives (especially on glass surfaces) and a sprayed brine solution, it is used to prevent snow / ice adhesion to the road surface.

 A number of state highway departments throughout the United States have decreased the use of rock salt and sand on roadways and have increased the use of solutions of magnesium chloride (often called "liquid magnesium chloride") as a de-icer. Magnesium chloride is much less toxic to plant life surrounding highways and airports, and is less corrosive to concrete and steel (and other iron alloys) than sodium chloride. 

ValuGard Corrosion & Rust Protection Products - “Four Steps for Protecting Your Car from Rust”  http://www.valugard.net/#

After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer

Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car. Always jack the car up at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner's manual) and the ground. Always work on level ground.

High Pressure Under body Lance

Angled spray lance connected to a power washer, this set-up is specifically designed to clean those hard to reach areas under the wheel arches and the undercarriage. Inlet Connection: ¼ - inch Female connection QC Plug - Max Flow: 3.5 to 6.0 GPM - https://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/BE-85.400.062/p16487.html

A spray lance connected to a power washer, this set-up is specifically designed to clean those hard to reach areas under the wheel arches and the undercarriage. Inlet Connection: 1/4 - inch female QC Plug - Max Pressure: 4,000 PSI - Max Flow: 3.5 to 6.0 GPM

Methodology

Magnesium chloride [: is the name for the chemical compound with the formula MgCl2 and its various hydrates MgCl2(H2O)x.] These salts are typical ionic halides, being highly soluble in water.

a) Undercarriage cleaning- thoroughly spray an undiluted citrus cleaner (P2IS Total Auto Wash) and let it soak in; remove by thoroughly rinsing with water. Fill pressure washer tank with citrus cleaner and spray undercarriage (do not use excess pressure as water may penetrate crevices and seams where it cannot drain, causing corrosion), let it soak and then remove with plain water. 

b) Undercarriage Salt Removal - spray undercarriage with ValuGuard Proguard Truck and Trailer Wash is an alkaline (pH 12.5) liquid concentrate, which is a blend of detergents that penetrates and disperses Magnesium Chloride, is the name for the chemical compound with the formula MgCl2 and its various hydrates  These salts are typical ionic halides, being highly soluble in water,  which after rinsing leaves the surface charged to repel dirt and soil. Low foam for better penetration into seams where Magnesium Chloride is difficult to remove

Cleans salt residue from all surfaces and will help brighten aluminum surfaces without etching and also works well to remove bugs, tar, and asphalt. Designed to be applied by brush, moderate or high pressure spray, and can also be used in steam cleaning applications. Product is completely biodegradable

Do not allow to dry on vehicle undercarriage. For cleaning tough areas like wheel wells, chassis, and very soiled wheels apply VG-502 at 1-1 mix to wet surface, allow to set for 3-5 minutes, agitate as needed and then rinse with moderate to high-pressure water spray for a clean surface. Dry all painted and glass surfaces after rinsing to prevent water spotting.

Wurth High Build Underbody Under Seal is a rubberized coating for undercarriage resurfacing that provides a permanent black finish that protects against road debris. It’s easy to use and fast drying making it ideal for resurfacing wheel wells and lower rocker panels. This product provides a permanent, flexible black finish that will protect against road debris such as rust, rocks, water and other road debris.

Application -clean area with a degreaser such as Wurth Clean Solve, rinse and allow to dry completely. Mask off areas not being treated. Spray and allow to dry for 30-40 minutes before driving the vehicle.

Personal Protection Equipment

Suitable eye, body protection and chemical resistant gloves (avoid prolonged skin contact)

ValuGard Paint Decontamination System 

This system is the most recognized by original equipment manufacturers (OEMs as well as their paint suppliers, BASF, DuPont, and PPG approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufacturers have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs.

Acids react with ferric iron Fe3+ (rust), ferrous iron (Fe2+) or steel (the metal used for auto construction) or aluminium. So be cognizant that acidic products have the potential to start the corrosion process, especially if they become trapped and not rinsed away

This system removes, industrial fallout, rail dust, acid rain, oxidation, silicone and waxes, tar and road grime, tree sap, love bugs and other insects, bird droppings, and hard water spots. No other paint cleaning method removes paint contaminants this efficiently. A three step system with a sequence of neutralization and neutralizing wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.

The (a) Acid Neutralizer expands and enters the paint system and goes after any acid residues, it’s an exothermic which opens the paint micro pores to enable the (b) Alkaline Neutralizer.  (c )The Detail Wash is used as a paint surface wash, the final step to neutralize both the alkaline and the acidic. Thus creating a chemical balance in the paint system matrix (resins binder system, and etc) these are the reasons that the car manufactures require the products be used as a complete system

Acid Neutralizer

 Removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains and neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage.

Removes storage / dealer lot stains and wax build-up.  Excellent pre-wash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminants before sanding.

Alkaline Neutralizer

 The second step of our Neutralization System, which  deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits.  Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.

Detail Wash

The third step in our neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level.  A true neutral car wash shampoo  not a soap,  it will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces, trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. 128:1 super concentrate

The Alkaline Neutralizer (part B) removes such a broad range of contaminants that it is in a different category from the ferrous iron particulate removal systems (Iron X et al) and is therefore one of the best product out there for ‘everyday’ acid decontamination needs

The acids used in both Finish Kare and ValuGuard decontamination system are phosphoric and sulphuric acids, both strong acids that readily dissociate and are very effective in dissolving the metallic component of brake dust allowing the carbon component to be rinsed away

A three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants. I would recommend the use of this system for new or new to you vehicles as part of your new car prep

Benefits: Leaves paint surface uncontaminated for application of wax, polish or sealant. Allows for correct repair of superficial paint damage, reduces buff time on pre-owned vehicles. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle surfaces with clean water before application as this removes and softens hardened dirt deposits. 

Removing Dust from a Paint Surface

These methodologies / products would apply to most forms of dust (Pollen, Sand, Volcanic Ash, and etc) Road dust or just the accumulation of dust from storage needs to be removed safely to avoid imparting scratches to the paint surface.

Dust will settle on your paint, if your vehicle is driven, dust is a fact of life that’s unavoidable. However if your paint is properly cared for, and the correct removal methods are used it will look better than any vehicle that is neglected

One of the first rules of paint care (especially noticeable with dark colours); the less you touch the paint surface; the less you’ll scratch it.

Use an open-ended hose and rinse with capacious amounts of clean water and blot dry surfaces with a waffle weave towel.  You may need to follow with a clean micro fibre towel and a detail spray (QD) and gently wipe off any streaks

It important to use these methodologies only for the removal of dry surface dust, don’t use if surface has condensation or dew, or if the vehicle has oily road film, road tar, damp pollen or dust, etc in these instances the vehicle surface should be subjected to a conventional wash or Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) car washing process

If you don’t have time for a two-bucket wash, then use a 1:20 Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle.

The surfactants it contains encapsulate dry surface dust, pollen or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches. Apply with a long nap 100% cotton micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only

When I was a Concours entrant / judge most entrants would break out a California Duster as soon as they were allocated a parking spot. I’ve been using them for approx twenty years on all types of vehicles including daily drivers without causing any surface scratches (see use methodology)

If you get a new California Duster, wrap it in newspaper and store it for a week or so, everyday put fresh paper on it to help absorb the excess oils in the duster that will streak your paint.

A weird rule of thumb for these things, the dirtier they get, the better they work.

Methodology -using long strokes, maintain very light surface pressure and use in one direction only, this ensures that any dust is removed not just pushed around. Shake the duster occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it. But in all things, including detailing opinions vary; there is no ‘right or wrong way ‘just whatever works for you

Precipitation (that contains dust)

Sahara rain or volcanic cinder cones (that result from eruptions, which resemble cinders) comprise both sand and grit caught up in rain droplets in clouds and then fall to the ground, leaving behind the film of dust when the water has evaporated. It is very abrasive and adheres to a paint surface; so use caution with its removal (flood rinse with an open-ended hose and rinse with capacious amounts of clean water and use a product that is formulated with a surfactant (Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) and encapsulating polymers.  

Blot dry surfaces with a damp waffle weave towel.  You may need to follow with a clean micro fibre towel and a detail spray (QD) and gently wipe off any streaks

Heavy Dust

To remove heavy dust use (ONR) a quick ‘wash’; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. Alternatively use Optimum Instant Detailer - this formulation penetrates and encapsulates light dust (including pollen) dirt, and grime, allowing for their removal without scratching or dulling the surface. As soon as is practical, thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a hose and clean water to ensure all the pollen is removed.

 Light Surface Dust

To remove light, dry surface dust without causing scratches apply very little surface pressure, use a California Ultimate Premium Car Duster (this duster uses 100% cotton fibres impregnated with paraffin wax to collect dust) this product is like Marmite, you either love or hate it, I've been using them for ten years or more without any paint surface problems (including Concours d’élégance events); having said that it’s all in the method you use.

Or the Zymol® Natural Wool Duster (that uses static to attach the dust to the fibres to assure that dust is lifted and removed, not just pushed around) or long nap micro fibre towel and Optimum ONR  (which uses a surfactant to encapsulate the dust and polymers to ensure surface lubrication) to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap or fibres and not on the towel surface thereby avoiding surface marring.

Methodology

Using long strokes, maintain very light surface pressure and use in one direction only, this ensures that any dust is removed not just pushed around. Shake the duster occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.

Do not use these methodologies on a wet, damp or hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?

Anti-Static - Static [the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the other material]

Static (friction) electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each other. Using products that do not contain oils will help by not retaining dust. (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Microfiber) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface. A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by using a polyester Microfiber towel on a polythene clear coat

For reduced dust attraction use Finish Kare #425 - Ultra Slick Polywipe, they contain polymer for lubricity, anti-corrosive agents, UV inhibitors and patented anti-static agents that gently remove fingerprints, smudges, and other light contaminates and reduced dust attraction.

Use a long nap micro fibre towel or a California Duster to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap and not on the towel surface thereby causing surface marring. Shake the towel occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.

Product Storage and Expiration

Products that contain volatile solvents (waxes, compounds, cleaners) will slowly evaporate and some products like ceramic coatings react/cure with air.

Air tight containment is almost never perfect, so eventually enough solvent will escape or air will get in, making the product unusable. Wax for example will eventually return to its natural state, a brittle solid. You could actually revive this by heating with the appropriate amount of solvent and re-setting. Ceramics are an aerobic type product, that is to say they air/moisture cure once this happens they are of little use. Abrasive polishes or cleaners use solvents as their carrier/spreading medium, once they evaporate using them could be very risky

Storage (Product)

All car acre products are negatively impacted by wide temperature fluctuations and extremes of high or low temperatures. As far as wax storage is concerned standard room temperature will suffice; a refrigerator provides a stable temperature / humidity, which equates to a longer shelf life to the products.

Water-based car care products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.^OF (wax 45.^OF) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.^OF with an average humidity range. Most car care products have a ‘useful life’ of approximately 2-3 years provided they are stored as above.

Keep containers tightly closed and ensure they are not compromised (fractured or leaking seals) store in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Do not allow to freeze. Do not store at temperature extremes (below 40 – over 80.^OF +) as heat will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc.)

Avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable, which will create problems with the performance of the product. Some separate out; others lose their effectiveness if they are heated past a certain point. Most car care products will separate and may become unusable after being subjected to freezing temperatures

The chemical composition of waxes rarely ever changes regardless of what form it is in, whether it is melted to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid. Temperature has little to no effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax, a cool temperatures and constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.

Shelf-Life

Providing them contains have a tight seal, are not compromised by fractures or (air) leaks, and use at least a single stage fluorination of the plastic, so that it is resistant to petrochemical solvents; without this the sides will ‘collapse’, which is actually the solvents in the product escaping through the micro pores of the plastic.

All liquid products should be shaken well before use and stored in light resistant containers

a) Polymers have a shelf life of approx. 3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above

b) Nanotechnology coatings - should be stored in tightly sealed containers and protected from heat and moisture. Recommended storage temperatures are 30. ° - 122. °.F Shelf life is approximately 12 months, provided the material is stored in sealed in its original containers, between 65. ° - 75. °.F.

c) Polish - technically 2 years, providing the bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated or the solvents haven’t evaporated by leaching (the bottle will become semi- collapsed) there should be no problem with use for three years after sale date

d) Waxes - will last almost indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original containers and in the refrigerator or controlled environment once opened. The liquids should last 18 months if stored at normal room temperature.

e) Detailing Chemicals (Wheel cleaners, all-purpose cleaners (APC) and etc.) have an almost indefinite shelf life if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above, see also Product separation

f) Product separation - if product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes.

Product shelf -life may vary from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg. or vendor.

Choosing an Air Compressor

Air Compressor

[: a device that converts electrical power or gas into kinetic energy by pressurizing and compressing air, which is then released in quick bursts]

Things to consider when selecting an air compressor:

Cubic Feet per Minute

Amount of air required, cubic feet per minute  (CFM) is probably the single biggest consideration when buying a compressor. What CFM will your air compressor need to produce in order to power all of your air tools?compressors.

Cubic Feet per Minutes, Free Air Delivery 

This unit of measurement is the volume of air actually discharged from the air compressor to the output (i.e your air tools). Free air delivery is far more useful as it’s the actual amount of air (CFM displacement) or  ‘power’ available for tools etc

     · Low-oil shut down prevents downtime and costly repairs resulting from l ow oil levels

· Oil-Free (or Oil-less) compressors are virtually maintenance-free performers for light- to general-duty applications. No need for periodic oil changes.

· V-design cylinders typically run cooler that in-line cylinders. Heat is a compressors worst enemy.

· Vertical vs. horizontal air compressors — Vertical compressors usually take up less floor space than horizontal compressors. Typically, vertical compressors are stationary, whereas smaller horizontal compressors are better for portable applications (such as a truck-mounted compressor).

· 100% Continuous Speed operation vs. Auto Start/Stop operation — Auto start/stop operation has preset cut in/cut out pressures. The compressor actually stops and turns back on as air is needed. With constant speed operation, the compressor runs 100% of the time and simply adjusts the air output. Dual control compressors offer both auto start/stop and continuous speed operation.

· Two-stage air compressors provide a reliable air source in commercial, industrial and automotive applications. Multi stage units tend to be more efficient, compressing air to a higher pressure than single-stage compressors. This allows more air to be stored for future use while generating less heat, reducing wear and extending compressor life.

· Identify the tool requirements. Most air powered tools will have a measuring unit indicating minimum air pressure required to operate. Most common is the SCFM (Standard Cubic Feet per Minute). Ensure your air compressor is capable of providing this value compressors.

· To find the minimum required CFM of the compressor you need multiply your tool’s required SCFM by 1.2

· Identify the power requirements. Air compressors come in either 120/220Volts, 120V compressors are suited to home-improvement and small projects while 220v means it are an industrial compressor. 120v/220v air compressors will need a 15AMP dedicated circuit to power them. This means you cannot use your washing machine and the compressor in the same circuit.

· Figure at least $100-200 for the air delivery system; stationary hard air line (galvanized, black iron piping or copper pipe, don't use PVC). You'll need air fittings, a good quality oil /water filter / pressure regulator, valves for drop lines to bleed off water, flex line from the compressor to the hard stationary air line, etc

Check - horsepower (HP) air delivery rate (CFM) pressure (PSI) power requirements (AMP) – amperage requirements (single or three phase)

Generally speaking, the higher the HP, the greater flow rate you can use on a constant basis (greater number of tools, or tools with higher flow rate requirements). The greater the tank volumes, the longer you can run without having the air pump kick in. In evaluating air compressors, beware of misleading specifications.

For example, flow rates specified in CFH (cubic feet per hour) instead of CFM (cubic feet per minute). This is often used on compressors with very low output to make them sound ‘like they have a larger air volume.  Worse yet are compressors that spec the maximum pressure they can output. While pumping 250 psi is interesting, what use is it if you only need 30 psi? Typically, what this means is that the flow rate is so low that the mfg. doesn't want to publish it, instead using the max pressure because it’s a big number.

Sizing an Air Compressor

Most compressor companies base their CFM output @ 0PSI but then sneak there "peak" ratings in the big bold print on the side of the compressor along with the "peak" HP ratings. Divide the tank volume in gallons by 7.48 (1 cu-ft = 7.48 gallons) to get the tank volume in cubic feet.  Atmospheric pressure (atm); 1 atmosphere (atm) = 14.7 psi, the 17 psi of pressure added during the cycle is 17/14.7 = 1.16 atm of pressure during the cycle.

Tank Size

The tank size, measured in US gallons, tell you how much air is compressed and give you something of an idea of how long you can operate your air tool for at a time. The other factors that affect how long you can run your tool for are the PSI and HP of the engine itself as these factors determine how quickly your compressed air supply is replenished

The compressor says it has a 25 gallon tank, and if I trigger a refill cycle by bleeding out air slowly with the relief valve, I observe on the tank gauge (not the downstream gauge) that the compressor "cuts in" at 85 PSI (G) and "cuts out" again at 102 PSI (G), difference of 17 PSI. It cranks for 35 seconds to build up that pressure.

Thus in one cycle, the rate at which air is being pumped into the tank, is the pressure rise times the volume of the tank, or 3.34 cubic feet * 1.16 atm = 3.87 cubic feet per 35 seconds. To proportion the 35 seconds up to minutes, to get the pumped volume per minute, multiply by 60/35, or 3.87 * 60/35 = 6.6 CFM (at 85 PSI (G)).

Here are some of the key attributes you'll need to pay attention to when choosing an air compressor

Horsepower (HP)

Air compressors, as their name implies, compress air. This takes an engine and engines have horsepower. The horsepower of the engine you're considering has direct impact on all the other aspects of your compressor's performance. Horsepower is often inflated, and you should be paying closer attention to the engine's rated amperage for an idea of how powerful it is. (See also Electrical Formula)

Rule of thumb, for compressors under 10HP figure on getting 2-3 CFM of compressed air flow at 90 PSI for each HP of motor size

Air Pressure (PSI)

PSI stands for pounds for square inch. Of course as you remember from high school physics class PSI is a measurement of pressure. To be exact, how many pounds of pressure are applied per square inch? The PSI rating is one of the crucial ratings in the air compressor to understand as air tools have a minimum amount of PSI required to run. Typically that's 90 PSI, but it depends from tool to tool.

Air Volume (CFM)

CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute and it's a unit for measuring the rate of air out of your air compressor. Air tools typically require 4-6 CFM for proper operation.

It is also common to size receivers at 1 gallon for each ACFM (Actual Cubic Feet per Minute), or 4 gallons per compressor hp (horse power)

Note: Standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) is the volumetric flow rate of a gas corrected to "standardized" conditions of temperature, pressure and relative humidity, thus representing a precise mass flow rate at standard conditions ( 14.73 PSI (A) and a temperature of 68. °F, with a relative humidity of 40% RH)

Air Tools

In addition to pressure, each tool needs a certain amount of air (airflow) to operate. The volume of air needed to operate a tool is based on the size of the tool and the speed you want to use it. Any excess pressure is absorbed by the tool which causes premature wear that shortens tool life. It could also increase the level of noise and vibration exposure to the operator.

· Air tools are more powerful than traditional electric tools

· Air tools deliver higher torque and higher RPM to help get the job done quickly

· Air tools are versatile and easily interchangeable

· Air tools are a safe alternative to other sources (minimizing hand fatigue from vibration)

The important things to look for is the CFM output at a given PSI rating, to ensure the air tools you plan to use will not exceed this rating in order to operate properly. Generally speaking, the higher the HP, the more flow rate you can use on a constant basis (greater number of tools, or tools with higher flow rate requirements). The greater the tank volumes, the longer you can run without having the air pump kick in.

Tool air requirements SCFM @ 90 PSI

· 6-inch pneumatic palm Sander / Polisher - 15-20.0

· 3- inch  pneumatic palm Sander / Polisher – 4- 6.0

· Impact Wrench - 2.5-10.0

· Mini Die Grinder 4-6.0

· Grease Gun -  4.0

· Touch-up HVLP air spray gun 4 – 6.0

· Air Foamer HP Foam Gun – 5.0

· Tornador Car Cleaning Gun – 5.0

Add the CFM of the tools that will be used at the same time plus 10%, add this number to the total CFM required. The number you come up with will be the highest rating of air compressor you should be looking for. This CFM rating will allow you to run your tools without over-taxing the compressor.

Air Compressor

For most detailing tasks a small air compressor will suit the job. Generally this means a compressor with a capacity of about 5 to 20gallons, to run pneumatic a palm hand sander / polisher, and other air-powered tools. A volume detailing shop with multiple operatives will require an industrial air compressor for heavy duty work can go up to 60 gallons.

Pencil hardness

Pencil Hardness Tester

 Hardness: [In materials science, hardness is the characteristic of a solid material expressing its resistance to permanent deformation. There are three principal operational definitions of hardness: Scratch hardness, Indentation hardness, Rebound or dynamic hardness]

 Modern clear coat urethane even though they are harder than lacquer paints, they still scratch more easily. And because they tend to be harder it's more difficult and time consumer to remove swirls and scratches. This is the main reason to take vendor claims of ‘provides 9H hardness ‘for what it is – totally irrelevant.  

 How can a dense (hard) clear coat be so easily scratched? Force acts through a body that has a surface area; if the surface area is really small while maintaining an equal force, the pressure becomes astronomical and the object under pressure capable of penetrating the surface of an otherwise tough material. (Newton's third law of motion)

 Hardness is dependent on ductility, elasticity, plasticity, strain, strength, toughness and viscosity; suffice to say it is extremely important that paint hardness is properly taken into account when polishing, because if it is not then inappropriate polishing products and pads may be selected that either remove too much paint or turn out to be completely ineffective

 Hard and soft are relative terms; you can   forces are the subject of Newton's third law of motion; the law of reciprocal actions [: to every action there is an equal and opposite reaction]

 It is important to note that manufacturer-approved paint suppliers vary by country as each country (and even province/state) has their own environmental laws they must adhere to.

 Paint is graded by its hardness or density by a Durometer; one of several measures of the hardness of a material. Durometer, like many other hardness tests, measures the depth of an indentation in the material created by a given force. Clear coats can be made with harder or softer durometer and that will also determine its scratch resistance.

 Pencil hardness test is one of many non-Scientific tests that are done to evaluate a coating's performance. Other tests are abrasion, reverse impact resistance, direct impact resistance, cross-hatch adhesion, oxidation, gloss retention, UV resistance, yellowing, blistering, drying times, chemical/solvent resistance (using both the rubbing and spot/time tests), salt spray resistance, humidity resistance, acid and caustic resistance, the VOC and HAP contents, and so on.(See also American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) publications)

 Pencil Hardness Tester

The pencil hardness test, also referred to as the Wolff-Wilborn test, uses the varying hardness values of graphite pencils to evaluate a coating’s hardness.

The Elcometer 501 Pencil Hardness Tester has been designed to ensure that the cylindrical pencil lead is maintained at a constant angle of 45° and exerts a force of 7.5N (1.68lbF).

 The pencil lead, prepared beforehand using the special sharpener and abrasive paper, is inserted into the Elcometer 501 hardness tester and pushed over the smooth, flat coated surface.

 The lowest hardness value of the pencil which marks the coating determines the coating’s hardness rating.

 After doing some testing on various coatings for their 'pencil hardness'. The hardest is a 9H, followed by 8H, 7H, 6H, 5H, 4H, 3H, 2H, and H. F is the middle of the hardness scale; then comes HB, B, 2B, 3B, 4B, 5B, 6B, 7B, 8B, and 9B, which is the softest.

 Does paint density (hardness) affect its scratch resistance? - many coating products claim an obtained surface (Pencil) hardness of 9H but this has little if anything to do with scratch resistance. Scratch resistance can be related to higher cross-link density and elasticity of the coating network as well as the surface’s friction resistance.

References

1. How do you Measure Pencil Hardness? Standardized Procedure - http://www.tekra.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Tek%20Tips%20-%20Pencil%20Hardness.pdf

Priming / Seasoning Pads

If you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place a pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to control and will produce hazing. This is due to most of the pad being "dry". Polishes and compounds appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ some things to note about pad priming: the cutting ability is increased, a better finish is obtained, it reduces any product ‘flashing’ problems, it produces a more even finish and the polishing machine is less likely to hop. Use a very slightly distilled water dampened pad, not too wet (otherwise the polish will clump); then spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly

Priming / Seasoning Pads

Don’t use a quick detailer or a pad conditioner as they are usually formulated with silicones, oils, waxes, polymers, gloss enhancers, which will negatively affect the polish lubrication (exception Meguiar’s Final Inspection Spray, diluted 1:1 distilled water) spraying water while polishing can cause the foam pads abrasives to aquaplane, as water for all intents and purposes is incompressible, so that the pad and the abrasive don’t have actual surface contact, thereby negatively impacting the polishing process. Spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, then spread that polish onto the pad by hand until it becomes 80% saturated.

By ensuring the pad doesn’t become saturated with polish it allows the in-built cushioning effect and the pads designed foam qualities; i.e. density (or rebound), compression (‘hardness or stiffness) and without altering its in-built air-flow, which will decrease its heat dissipating abilities, causing it to transfer more kinetic friction heat to the surface

To apply to the paint surface; lightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from friction induced heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh pad on your machine (and this should be done often) you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing.

Once the pad has been seasoned (pad should be 80% saturated with product being used to compound / polish) you can reduce the amount of polish / compound applied to the pad for subsequent passes; dependent upon what you're trying to accomplish. If you use too much polish or compound the oils will cause the surface to become over lubricated, which will negatively impact the abrasive abilities

Some advantages to pad priming:

• Increased cutting ability

• Better surface finish

• Eliminates carrier system (solvent) flashing problems

• Surface is more evenly polished and polisher is easier to control

When you prime entire pad, by spreading the abrasives uniformly and by keeping the pad flat thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact it becomes similar to a piece of wet-sanding finishing paper, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding)

Polish Lubrication

Gloss It EVP Pad Prime is high-grade lubricating oil that greatly extends machine polishing times and enables polishes to break down properly, even on the softest of paints. It helps to extend pad life and reduce the amount of polish used, and therefore pays for itself in the long run. Works exceptionally well in hot and humid conditions, where it prevents polishes from flashing off too quickly, and is also useful in cold and damp conditions, where it prevents temperature-sensitive polishes like Menzerna RD3.02 from clumping up and becoming unusable.

Designed to be used sparingly; only a single drop is required per panel to be polished; for best results, add the drop to the centre of the pad and then place the pad on to the panel to be polished and run your machine for a few seconds at low speed to spread the oil evenly over the face of the pad.

Methodology

1. Dampen the pad thoroughly (do not over wet) as this will aid in compound/polish dispersion. You could also wet the foam and press in a folded towel, do not wring the foam as this could weaken the Velcro® backing.

2. When the pad is dampened properly it becomes flexible and much easier to use, this also helps the pad to absorb polish (capillary action) efficiently. Pad longevity may be increased as the water will dilute any solvent, paint residue (oxidation) or abrasive materials as these will degrade the structure of a pad, either by mechanical agitation or by absorption.

3. Dampened foam will be less brittle and therefore less likely to tear or shred.

4. Spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, then spread that polish onto the pad by hand until the pad face becomes 75 % saturated. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated spraying water onto the surface to induce capillary action to draw more abrasives to the surface of the pad for more cut.

5. Once the pad has been seasoned (pad face is 75% saturated with product) you can reduce the amount of polish / compound applied to the pad for subsequent passes; dependent upon what you're trying to accomplish.

6. Once the pad is primed it helps by spreading the abrasives uniformly and by keeping the pad flat thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact it becomes similar to a piece of wet-sanding finishing paper, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding)

Relevant Articles

1. KBM- Pad Priming and Supplemental Wetting Agents by Kevin Brown -

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...wetting+agents

2.The Physics of Polishing - 

http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/the-physics-of-polishing.html

3. Surface preparation prior to polishing - 

http://togwt1980.blogspot.co.uk/2017/07/surface-preparation-prior-to-polishing.html