Removal of Cigarette smoke

Removal of Smoke Odours

Many odours are caused by micro-organisms such as bacteria, mould, and mildew. First start by cleaning all the interior surfaces; but remember shampooing alone will not eradicate these odours. You eliminate odour-causing organisms with very specialized chemicals.

Look for stains, if there are no stains, use the process of elimination; it is very effective when searching for the source of an odour; floor or seats, mats or carpet? If the vehicle has velour upholstery, a spill can penetrate on contact. If it is vinyl or leather, it will run to the deepest seam. Pay special attention to the headliner and all glass surfaces (especially smoke odour) 

What is Cigarette Smoke?

The odours from cigarette are particles of incomplete combustion with a size of 0.1 to 4µ (micron). As a size comparison, an average human hair is between 40 – 600µ.  It’s actually the tar content when exhaled that causes smoke residue to adhere tenaciously, regardless of surface. 

These concentrated particles accumulate on hard surfaces and permeate deep into soft surfaces like seating foam. In an enclosed car environment where air circulation is propelled through the ducting system; the car interior is becomes positively pressurized; resulting in deeper penetration into interior surfaces. These inaccessible locations make smoke decontamination a challenging task  

DrivePur

Using the latest in photo catalytic technology DrivePur can quickly and effectively remove pet odours, smoke odours, food odours, germs, bacteria, mold, mildew, stains and other contaminants from the interior. Symptom that occurs from prolonged exposure to microbes that grow in automobile interiors, the presence of the microbes causes similar reactions as sick building syndrome. Some of the examples of odour molecules are: tobacco odour, formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide, urine odour, gasoline, and many other hydrocarbon molecules in the atmosphere.

A high pressure atomizing spray is the only application method I’d recommend for proper application. Using specialized spray-coating equipments (Tornador or spray gun) a fine mist < 5 µ of a water-based Ti02 photo catalyst that can be applied on different types of surface material that forms a nano structure of protection and guarantees the maximum result.

Products

In-car surface and air pollution has become a major health issue worldwide, causing respiratory diseases, allergies, and other serious illnesses that hamper productivity and jeopardize their lives. And yet, few people have looked closely at the problem and invented something to overcome it.

Tio2 needs ultra violet light sunlight, airflow and humidity; treating a car with only Tio2 (a UV-PCO product) could take weeks to remove all the odours.

Drivepur system Smoke and high Ph odours

· Disinfection and Organic type low Ph odours

· UV-PCO surface coating that will continue to break down the germs, bacteria's and odours for 6 months or more.

Smok- is very effective at eliminating cigarette and other odours. It has the ability to penetrate, seek out and react with the components of tobacco smoke (tar and nicotine) dissolving and converting them into gaseous molecules without causing any damage to fabrics, materials or hard surfaces.

Shok- is a Germ, Bacteria and Odour Neutralizer that makes eliminating them from automobiles, boats and RV’s a simple task. Eliminate odours caused by cigarette and cigar smoke, spilled beverages, mold and mildew, pets, kids, food, fish, and just about anything else you can imagine.

  

Prevnt - uses Ultraviolet Photocatalic Oxidation (UV-PCO) that will continue to keep odours germs and bacteria out of the vehicle for up to 6 months. Prevnt has a patented polymer which bonds the tio2 to all surfaces including leather.

A smoker can continue to smoke in the car - within 15 minutes the new odours are broken down. Once treated the vehicle needs UV radiation (sunlight) airflow and humidity to break down the contaminants.

Klenz- is a Carpet and   Upholstery Cleaner comprised of non-ionic surfactants and a water hardness modifier to create a powerful micelle cleaning action that can tolerate tremendous soil loads. Klenz penetrates and lifts hydrocarbon soils, including fats, oils, greases, proteins and sugars without damaging carpeting fibers or upholstery fabrics   

Air Conditioner cleaning -

Vehicle Air Conditioning System

Legionnaire’s disease is rare but it kills people and it's an extremely unpleasant disease. It does not spread from person to person but is present in water environments and is breathed in when it gets into the air in fine particles or mist. This is a bug which lives in the environment and will take advantage of any static warm water systems that are not cleaned out.

Always check the following; a/c vents, ducting, condensate pan and drain pipe for mould and subsequent odours

 [Every time you use your air conditioner, you are providing an opportunity for odor causing mould, mildew and bacteria to grow within your air conditioning system. To explain how this happens we must understand how the air conditioner system works. Here’s a basic explanation. When the air conditioner is on, it pulls moisture out of your car’s interior through a unit called the evaporator core, which is located underneath your car’s dashboard. When the humidity (moisture) levels drop, the air temperature also drops. The moisture that is pulled from the air condenses and is drained outside the car.

Ever notice a pool of water under your parked car on a hot summer day? That’s the water that was drained from the system. This also happens to be the way home air conditioners and refrigerators work.

Even though most of the moisture is drained from the car, moisture still remains on the evaporator core system. As the air circulates around the evaporator core, dust and pollen in the air stick to the moisture on the metal fins of the evaporator. Soon thereafter mildew and bacteria begin to grow on the surface of the evaporator. This collection of grime and odour causing agents begin to release odour and is the cause of the smell coming out of your vents.

One way to help prevent or at least reduce this issue is to keep the air conditioner on the fresh air setting. This keeps fresh air circulating around the evaporator which helps keep it and the surrounding area dry thereby reducing the chance of any mould, mildew and bacteria from growing. However, there are two disadvantages to this method. First, it’s also not always convenient to switch to the fresh air setting in order to draw in hotter air to dry out the system. It just might be too hot or cold to be worth this extra effort. It’s also not economical.

Second, allowing fresh air to flow in increases the accumulation of dust, pollen and brake dust build up. Of course if you have a cabin air filter you don’t have to worry about that since it will trap the pollutants before it reaches the evaporator area.

Another possible solution is to spray a disinfectant like Lysol® into the ventilation system or have your car treated with ozone or other similar system. However, this process does not affect any dust, pollen and other contaminants that have accumulated on the evaporator. While it may disinfect any mould, mildew and bacteria, the results are usually short term.] Clearing the Air, by Michael Mankarious

Always check the following; a/c condensate pan and condensate drain pipe smells and odours, for ac odours use 1z Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioning Cleaner or Wurth Air Conditioning & Heating System Treatment, an effective means for removing odour-causing bacteria, smoke fumes, fungi and other germs.

It effectively disinfects mould, mildew and bacteria on the evaporator core. It also applies a thin layer of protectant that has been proven in laboratory tests which makes the growth of contaminants more difficult so the results are long lasting. The effective foam solution emulsifies the debris build up on the evaporator core so it’s cleaner and will run more efficiently.

The condensate drain line can be cleaned out with some stiff but flexible wire, once it’s running free insert the Iz AC Cleaner and spray the foam to ensure any mould or bacteria is removed.

The effective foam solution emulsifies the debris build up on the evaporator core so it’s cleaner and will run more efficiently. Apply product through the evacuation/drain tube of the evaporator core located underneath the vehicle. As the mfg warns that electronics can be damaged if applied improperly; while applying the product through the evacuation/drain tube of the evaporator core located underneath the vehicle seems to avoid this risk.

Application

· Turn off ignition, air conditioning and fan system and adjust fan position to recirculation and make sure it is NOT on the 'foot' or 'defrost' position.

· Shake can well for one minute to ensure proper foaming of product when dispensed.

· Attach the supplied spray tube to aerosol can and insert end of tube into centre (as this is the closest the evaporator core) air conditioner vent located on the dash in the cockpit interior.

· With tube fully inserted in vent, press trigger to dispense contents.

· DO NOT invert can when dispensing. As you spray, the thick foam solution will travel through the air vents towards the evaporator (the source of odour causing elements).  

· After dispensing product, wait 20 minutes for product to clean the system. Then, open doors to allow fresh air to enter vehicle.

· After about 30 minutes, you’ll smell a fresh, citrus scent throughout the passenger cabin. The scent only lasts for about 12 hours, but the air will be free of odours for months

Options:

1: Apply Klima-Cleaner tube through the evacuation/drain tube of the evaporator core located underneath the vehicle.

2: Remove blower and insert tube through main ducting of housing.

Another significant benefit is the result of cleaner interior air. This is especially important for allergy sufferers who are sensitive to airborne contaminants. For those who are highly sensitive to chemicals, rest assured that Klima-Cleaner is a water- and salt-based cleaner so chances of any skin reaction is extremely minimal.

Tips

1. Turn off the AC but leave the fan running for the last minute or two before turning off the ignition to help dry the condenser and surrounding area.

2. Turn on fan to maximum setting with A/C setting in ON for approximately 1 minute to dry system. as a result of improper application

3. Change out or clean Cabin Air Filter

Evaporator Coil

Wurth EVAPOmat® atomises cleaning and odour eliminating active substances with the aid of three ultrasonic cells. The active substance mist is blown out of the EVAPOmat® by a fan.

The fine vapour is distributed in the entire ventilation duct or in the vehicle interior by the supplied application hose and is deposited on the evaporator surface or on the textiles and reliably eliminates unpleasant odours caused by bacteria and fungi. After approx. 15 min. the mist spray is switched off, however the fan continues to run for at least another 5 minutes to cool down the cells.

Outstanding effectiveness, odour molecules are absorbed and eliminated naturally, spreads a pleasant, fresh citrus fragrance.

Air Vents

Cleaning your car air vents effectively is as easy as using the right tool. A small, soft and flexible brush will easily dust out your vents the next time you detail your interior. Make sure your brush will pick up dirt and not scratch delicate or plastic surfaces. Turn the air on, and let the vents blow out as you dust, so that you don't push dust and dirt back behind them. If you wish to dampen your brush with a safe ammonia and silicone free cleaner (P21S Total Auto Clean)  

Leather Steering Wheel Cleaning / Renovation

Replacement or having someone do a rewrap at an upholstery shop would be an expensive option.

Be cognizant that unless you have a temporary replacement wheel you won’t be able to use your vehicle for at least three days while your applying pigmentation and refinishing the wheel, so plan accordingly

The leather covering on a steering wheel is a very high wear area and is given an OEM clear top coat urethane protective covering. Often the colour can wear through fairly quickly as they are exposed to ultra violet (UV-B) radiation and heat which causes them to lose moisture and dry out becoming brittle and subject to cracking. 

As the skin of your hands are in contact with bare leather, perspiration and body oils are both acidic, which along with any dirt and grime will become absorbed. Besides staining your leather, it will also make it shiny and can also can weaken and break down the stitching as well as the leather, degrading the finished leather leading to ultimate failure.

A few days before commencing the actual leather renovation, clean the finished leather surfaces and then use Leather Master™ Leather Degreaser to remove any body oils and then apply Leather Master™ Soft, this is not a conditioner per se but it will soften the finished leather and make it easier to work with.

Remove the Steering Wheel

Disconnect the negative battery terminal, and remove the steering wheel. Once the wheel has been removed, remove all of the electronics and trim plates.

Light Surface Scratches

Finished (urethane) leather surface scratches (usually from jewellery (rings) or fingernails - for light slightly scuffed surfaces use 2500 grit finishing paper, with light pressure sand the area until the marks have faded.

For deeper scratches - Then use a very thin application of Leather Master’s Leather Filler, water- based acrylic paste that fills out scratches in leather or any part of that grain that is missing.

All the steps for preparation and pigmentation application are the same, although it’s a good idea to use a mild degreaser to remove any oil or grease from the surface and then proceed by removing the manufactured finish from the leather with leather solvent; (Leather Masters™ Leather Degreaser) this allows the pigmentation colorants to adhere and penetrate the leather, giving a sound base covering, uniformity and to will ensure an original equipment manufacturers (OEM) finish.

Use painter’s tape and/or masking paper around anything that doesn’t require pigmentation applied (i.e. interior of the wheel and the rear vinyl etc.

Urethane Surface Cracks

As the leather hide loses moisture and becomes dehydrated, it begins to shrink and stiffen. This leaves a miniscule gap between the leather hide and the pigmented (colour) urethane coating on top of it. The urethane coating is no longer supported by the hide; without proper support, it starts to crack.

Pigmentation (Colour) Renovation 

Certain areas of your vehicles leather interior like seats, upholstery, side mouldings and steering wheels inevitably start to show signs of wear, even if well taken care of, that spoil its overall impression. Often these imperfections are not serious and are simply colour that has worn off or light scratches in the leather surface which can be removed and will disappear with the right application technique and leather pigmentation. Swisswax Leather Refurbishing Pigmentation

Steering wheels typically have a matte clear coat to protect them from ultra violet (UV-B) light, so it’s important to replace this finish as it protects and enhances the leather and preserves its durability. Leather World Technologies Top Coat is a water-based clear coating for finished (pigmented) leather. This product provides a clear finish designed to give abrasion protection and better durability for finished leather.  

Allow the pigmentation to cure for 24 hours before the application of the clear coat. Apply with a clean lint free 100% cotton micro fibre towel, being careful to apply a two thin uniform coats (allow each coat to thoroughly dry) to reduce build-up and streaks, allow to dry for 24 -36 hours; dependent upon temperature and humidity. This type of clear paint can be 'heat cured' with infra-red heat, a heat gun or a hair dryer

Finally apply a surface a protection product Leather Masters Protection Cream with a dry micro fibre towel and allow to thoroughly dry and then lightly buff. This provides a Scotchgard™ type protection specifically formulated for leather

Note: the same methodology and products can be used on leather shift stick (gear knob) covers

Leather Stitching

If the stitching and finished leather surfaces are different colours, try to avoid allowing any pigmentation to dry on the stitching; to remove wipe with a water-based solvent cleaner. Leather stitching is usually cotton and nylon mix, nylon is attacked by harsh petroleum distillate solvents, they melt it and weaken the threads, which may cause the stitching to fail over time

Stitching is somewhat friable if subjected to excessive abrasion, bearing this in mind the cleaner needs to ‘do the work’ without relying on friction.

To renovate / clean stitching using a medium / hard horse hair brush, a toothbrush or a sponge and a safe solvent cleaner (DT-1105) this chemical is formulated from several types of alcohol and milder based solvents and it will remove all dressings, protectants, waxes and oils from the surface. And then remove all traces of the solvent / alcohol with a foam cleaner Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner

Leather Master™ Leather Degreaser 

Is an aerosol product for cleaning oily stains; it dissolves and removes oil and grease from finished leather surfaces. This cleaner can be applied for cleaning all types of leather (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is ideal for cleaning this type of stain as it dissolves the oils and transforms them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather. This powder is what is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are still a lot of oils in the leather.

Alternative product - Sonax Alcantara & Upholstery Cleaner

Finished leather and the use of conditioners

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself.

The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate (urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern (post ’85) automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum polyurethane/polyacrylic resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather.

Half-life  [ (t1⁄2 - a decay constant) [:is the time required for a quantity to reduce to half its initial value]

The half-life of urethane is usually considered to be five-years. However, this is dependent upon it’s exposure to climatic conditions

Two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat are applied, and then finally a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied as the final stage of the finishing process, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel (patina) and abrasion resistance, as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle

It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se. Oils are not compatible with water-based pigmented urethane coatings and their molecules are too large to permeate, so they remain on the surface to be removed by clothing

So why would you need conditioning / what are you conditioning?

Finished leather seats consist of leather hide that has colours added (Pigmentation) and then top coated with a polyurethane/polyacrylic resin.Urethane hydrophobic (repels water) and, if it’s hydrophobic, then won’t it repel any ‘conditioning’ oils just as it repels water.

Wearing out the polyurethane/polyacrylic resin protective layer

Wear and tear of the hides protective covering requires you to use a conditioner to preserve the hide?

The urethane clear coat on the exterior paint system is subjected to environmental abuse as well as the use of high alkaline car washes and machine polisher/abrasive compounds.

Whereas the interior upholstery is only subjected to the abrasion of driver/passenger entering/exiting. Yet vendors of auto upholstery would have you believe. Could this be the need to sell various conditioning products?

Vehicle Covers (Weather Protection - Storage)

Whether storing overnight or long term, covers are often the most effective solution. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation they are manufactured to be water-resistant and are available in various breathable fabric materials that provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and windblown debris, as well as protection against every type of climatic conditions, can be used for both long-term indoor or outdoor vehicle storage. 

Covercraft Products are well known in the automotive industry as the largest manufacturer of custom patterned car covers in the world. Started in 1965 as a two-person company, now with over 500-employee’s supplying the automotive aftermarket, original equipment manufacturers (OEM) and specialty markets with over 45,000 custom cover patterns, made in the USA with the QS 9000 standards rating award, meeting strict international quality standards. They offer a four year replacement warranty.

Websites

· California Car Cover Company - How to Select -

· Cover World - http://www.carcoverworld.com

· Cover craft Europe - http://www.covercraft-europe.com Covercraft Europe is the world’s largest maker of custom-fit car covers, motorbike & scooter covers, jet-ski covers, pet covers, pet pads and cargo tech bags-

· Covercraft Vehicle Protection Products - http://calcarcover.com/how_to_select.aspx#ultraweave

For relative ease of handling choose a cover with a fabric weight of between 4-7 oz. per sq. yd. Used for long-term vehicle storage, either in the garage or outdoors, car covers protect against accidental scratches and dings from passers-by, car doors, lawn mowers, sporting equipment, bikes and pets.

Started in 1965 as a two-person company, now with over 500-employee’s supplying the automotive aftermarket, original equipment manufacturers (OEM) and specialty markets with over 45,000 custom cover patterns. Made in the USA with the QS 9000 standards rating award, meeting strict international quality standards

Some fabrics offer more heat insulation than others, simply because they are multi-layered and are more effective at keeping heat away from the vehicle surface, but any cover will help reduce the vehicle temperature on a hot day. They are manufactured to be water-resistant, available in various breathable fabric materials for protection against every type of climatic conditions, as well as both long-term indoor or outdoor vehicle storage

Car Cover Product Selection

A quality car cover with a soft inner liner will not damage the paint; the key is to put the cover on a car that is clean and waxed. This will help prevent any possible damage from environmental damage (ultra violet radiation, acidic bird and insect excrement, airborne dirt and grime, acid rain, and etc.). It will also keep the interior cooler avoiding the damage caused by ultra violet radiation and subsequent photo degradation. This results in discoloration, fading, embitterment, cracking, chalking and/or loss of interior vinyl, leather upholstery, carpeting, and etc.

A car cover must allow transpiration; when you have any solid or liquid in a humid environment, you have absorption of water at the surface. Moisture due to condensation must to allowed to dissipate, otherwise the paint will haze and if moisture is trapped it will damage the paint surface. For these reasons when storing a vehicle never place anything (i.e. a water-proof tarp) on top of a car cover

Moisture Entrapment

Paint will sometimes show ‘hazing” after removing a car cover that has not allowed transpiration. The temporary hazing, which can appear as a slight dull discoloration, stain, or raised surface in the paint is caused by the paint finish absorbing moisture

Correction- In most cases, by applying Isopropyl alcohol and exposure to heat (sunlight) allows the moisture to evaporate within a few hours. For colder climates, moisture evaporation recovery can be accelerated by placing the vehicle indoors and using a portable infrared heat lamp (or professional-type heat gun). Allow the affected area to outgas by not using a wax or sealer on the affected are for a few days

In extreme cases if a waterproof cover i.e. a tarp is used to cover a vehicle it may cause delamination. A polyurethane paint (high solid / low solvent) clear coat can absorb moisture; as water molecules are smaller than a cross-linked clear coats molecule. Moisture (condensation) can permeate and break down the chemical bonds between the clear coat and the basecoat; this sometimes produces small bubbles in the paint surface. This will also cause delamination between the layers since once the chemical bond is destroyed; only the weaker mechanical bond remains.

Do not use   plastic/Tarpaulin to cover vehicle, it will trap moisture and stain paint

1. Vehicle Storage

a) Indoor: Dustop ™ a four layer cover with maximum dust protection and its soft inner layer protects paint.

b) Long Term Outdoor: WeatherShield™ heavy duty (HD) - primarily for intense sun environments and long-term storage provides optimum protection from a multi-layer breathable (heavyweight) fabric.

2. Outdoor Weather Protection - Ultratect Car Cover:

This car cover doesn’t just keep your vehicle looking showroom new; this cutting-edge fabric retains its sharp looks longer than other materials. Each cover is stitched together using solution-dyed WeatherMax® SL fabrics, the most fade-resistant you can find. Every single thread is dyed from the inside out, not just on its surface. This advanced colouring process leaves your Ultratect car cover fully fade resistant.

Along with retaining its colour longer, this cover also delivers superior outdoor protection against water and UV rays. It’s finished on both sides with HydroMax to repel rain and morning dew, yet still remains fully breathable for natural drying. And, this lightweight car cover blocks against even the harshest sun exposure.

Never one-size-fits-all, they are custom tailored for a form fit on your vehicle. Plus, this tight cover holds its shape longer than most and won’t get baggy. You even get a solid 4-year warranty

a) Severe Rain Storms: 

EvolutionTM (Technalon™) - a heavyweight, four-layer fabric for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection.

b) Inclement Weather: 

Noah™ by Kimberly Clark™ — a three-layer fabric to provide more water resistance than most covers as well as UVR protection for extended outdoor use, but especially heavy rain protection.

c) Severe sun exposure: 

Sunbrella™ by Glen Raven Mills, Inc In areas of high sun but little rain a Sunbrella™ cover provides the best UVR protection for prolonged sun exposure, a durable long-lasting fabric that protects interior and exterior finish, provides almost complete UV block, fade and water resistant.

d) Severe sun exposure: 

Reflec'tect™ Lightweight woven fabric has a UV-reflective silver-colour finish that helps keep the vehicle cooler, fabric is water resistant and also repels dust and dirt to help keep the vehicle clean, compact for easy trunk storage,3 Year Warranty Easy to handle for installation and removal, this lightweight cover provides good all season protection.

3. Convertible Interior Care:

 Sunbrella™ by Clen Raven Mills, Inc. Easy to use protection for convertibles when the top is down, the interior cover protects the windshield and the vehicle interior from UV radiation, the suns heat, airborne pollutants, and droppings from trees and birds

4. Two-cover system:

During high winds the use of this system will avoid paint surface marring from the cover being buffered by high force winds

1. Dustop™ - 4 layer cover with maximum dust protection and its soft inner layer protects paint.

2. WeatherShield™ HD- primarily for intense sun environments and long-term storage provides optimum protection from a multi-layer breathable (heavyweight) fabric.

Car Covers - Car Cover World: Complete Covercraft Range, Custom-Fit Covers, Ready-Fit Covers, Tonneau Covers, Front End Masks, Seat Savers, UV Heat shields

Placing Cover on Vehicle

Do not place a car cover on a dusty or dirty car (dry surface with a waffle weave towel or remove dust with a car duster) Ensure that the cover fits well and keep the cover clean (dust / dirt between the inside of the cover or the vehicle surface will cause scratching) Purchase a good quality cover that is manufactured from a durable fabric suitable for your local climatic conditions and expected usage.

To place car cover on vehicle; start by placing the rolled-up cover on the centre of the roof (do not drag cover across vehicle surface as it may cause scratching) unroll from the middle to the rear of vehicle and then middle to front, unroll left side and then right using mirror `pockets' (if fitted) Ensure that cover is `tight' and attach cable and lock (if required) Remove from vehicle opposite to the above and store dry cover in storage bag (if supplied)

Ensure that cover is `tight' and attach cable and lock (if required) Remove from vehicle opposite to the above and store dry cover in storage bag (if supplied)

In strong wind conditions when removing the car cover use the side mirrors as 'anchors’. Remove the front and back portions and then roll towards the top. Then, remove the mirror pocket from one side mirror, then the other. Use a similar method when covering the car, by first attaching the mirror pockets to the side mirrors.

Removing Cover

Pull the front edge up to about halfway along the length of the car, and then do the same with the back edge so that it meets the front edge, you've just got outside to outside contact. You can then fold the cover in half and only have inside to inside contact, and continue folding this way until it's manageable and can be stuffed into a carry bag. Of course, you then need to be very careful when placing it back on the car so that you perform the above operation in reverse order.

Cleaning – Maintenance / Care

Car cover fabric performance can be severely affected by dirt that builds up on and within the material. It can cause the windshield and paint to become dirty and fogged as well as create wicking where it actually helps pull water through the fabric, nullifying any water resistant properties the fabric may have had. Cleaning your cover will help to keep your vehicle clean and to increase the service life of the cover.

Some fabrics offer more heat insulation than others, simply because they are multi-layered and are more effective at keeping heat away from the vehicle surface, but any cover will help reduce the vehicle temperature on a hot day.

They are manufactured to be water-resistant, available in various breathable fabric materials for protection against most types of climatic conditions, as well as both long-term indoor or outdoor vehicle storage.

Commercial Washing Machine

• Use a soft Horse Hair brush and a vacuum to remove any loose dust or dirt

• Covers should be taken to a commercial Laundromat and washed in large automatic washers without agitator. Use Woolite® (no soap or detergent). Wash your cover using the "Normal" or "Permanent Press" cycles in cold or warm water. Do not wash in hot water.

• Put the cover through two rinse cycles - it is important that the entire cleaning solution be removed in order to preserve the cover's water resistance, and then air dry.

• Do not put the cover in an automatic heated dryer (the fabric can melt or shrink)

• Do not dry-clean covers as the chemicals used will negatively affect the fabric protection abilities and durability

Car Cover Cleaning and Care

• Use a soft Horse Hair brush and a vacuum to remove any loose dust or dirt

• Gently rinse cover with clean water

• Wash with a 5:1 clean water / Woolite solution, using a soft brush to loosen any stubborn dirt (Do not scrub surface (see Spots and Stains)

• Thoroughly rinse with clean water to remove soap solution

• Allow to thoroughly air-dry

• Apply 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard by spraying from approximately 6-inch above the surface with a side-to-side motion, dampen but do not saturate.

• Two applications will ensure complete coverage, allow air-drying between applications.

• Allow cover to dry before storage.

• The inside of a cover may also be cleaned by turning it inside-out on the vehicle and repeating the above steps

• Allow to thoroughly air-dry

RaggTopp Horse Hair Brush - this natural horse hair brush will not harm the finish of your cover. It’ nonabrasive and is incredibly soft, yet strong enough to get into the fibres and texture of your fabric cover. The design of the brush makes it easy to grip and gently scrub dirt and grime from your convertible top, car cover or other fabric and vinyl material like tonneau covers, vinyl awnings.

Notes – Do not

1. Clean a car cover in a washer with a centre agitator

2. Use fabric softener.

3. Dry a non-woven or specialty type cover in a dryer.

Maintenance:

About once per month, dependent upon usage / climate, rinse the cover with clean water by gently hosing to remove surface dust or dirt that may have settled. This will extend the time requirements for between soap and water cleaning / washing. Use a rolling tape type lint brush, designed to remove lint from clothing, on your car cover. Daily use will remove any lint or light dust and reduce cleaning time dramatically.

Spots and Stains - spray the spot until wet with 303TM Cleaner & Spot Remover™, agitate with a medium-soft brush and let stand. Then blot up the stain and excess cleaner as described above. If necessary, repeat, agitate and let stand a few minutes before wiping clean. Dry completely before use

Hand Washing

• Use a soft Horse Hair brush and a vacuum to remove any loose dust or dirt.

• With the cover on the vehicle wet the surface

• Spots and Stains - spray the spot until wet with 303TM Cleaner & Spot Remover™, agitate with a medium-soft brush and let stand. Then blot up the stain and excess cleaner as described above. If necessary, repeat, agitate and let stand a few minutes before wiping clean.

• Using a clean low pressure water hose, an alkaline soap and a medium stiff brush – wet the surface with water and apply the soap by brushing.

• Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry

Infrared Radiation

Infrared radiation represents part of the ultra violet solar spectrum (approximately 55%-60%). The remaining heat source comes from visible and ultra violet (UV) light

Heat alone will not cause photosynthesis (fading) UVB radiation is what is responsible, although it will dry the resin (binder system) in paint; leading to oxidation. It will also dry out the oils and plasticizers in vinyl and other materials and may lead to structural damage (this is especially relevant to open top convertibles)

Ultra violet penetration of auto glass; UV radiation is present in the sun’s rays throughout the year in varying amounts. Ordinary auto window glass filters out about 97% of the UV-B radiation and about 37% of UV-A radiation.

Touchless Car Cover

Unlike a traditional car cover, it will take seconds to put the Touchless Car Cover on your vehicle or take it off. No longer will dust and dirt get on your well taken care of car because of a dirty traditional car cover.

• Concours enthusiasts - put your car away on site the day before, work on it in the rain,

• Indoor storage in open barns, car ports- drive in and out, saving time

• Outdoor summer storage under trees, on driveways, for classics and modern cars- you can drive a wet or dirty car straight in

• Race cars in the paddock - keeps open cars dry and provides a workplace

• Detailer’s carry on working when it rains without cumbersome and heavy pop-ups

• Newly re-sprayed cars - protect without touching

Its UV protection will save your interior from the harmful effects of the sun. Best of all, this remarkable hand assembled car cover costs about the same or less than a traditional quality car cover. By protecting your pride and joy you will recover the cost many times over at resale - Vertar

Universal front / rear entry, 16'4" / 4.98m long, folds into own bag 4 ft. x 2 inches, steel cable and padlock supplied

Fits:

• Aston Martin up to DB7, DB9, DBS and V8

• BMW up to 6 series

• Bentley Continental

• Ferrari up to 599, F430

• Lamborghini up to Murcielago

• Mercedes to SL, E-Class

• Porsche all models except Cayenne

• Volvo - even the V70 estate and XC70

How Temperatures affect Detailing (Product Storage, Shelf Life and Application)

Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.C) and 80.F (26.C)

The other climate related condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it ineffective.

· Surface Temperature (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.^oC) and 80.^oF (26.^oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. > 45. °F to < 90.° F (4.5-32.^oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.^oC) range.

· Most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.

· The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches

· Sunlight - all chemicals should be stored in a closed cabinet or at the very least out of direct sunlight exposure for extended periods of time. Sun can cause colour and scent changes, as well as affect their performance; especially with products like Glass Cleaner, Waterless Wash, and APC. Exposing chemicals to sunlight during use shouldn’t be of concern, but try to return the bottles to a shady or covered area if they won't be used for more than a few minutes.

· A hot surface temperature will cause the car wash concentrates to dry out and when rinsing the surface will cause rapid drying, which will leave water spots

· Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, the thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail.

· The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)

· Cold ambient temperatures  (40.°F >) - water-based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc) will be negatively affected  at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and become unworkable

Fracture/evaporation temperatures

[: the melting point of a solid is the temperature range at which it changes state from solid to liquid. At the melting point the solid and liquid phase exists in equilibrium.] 

Polymers (including Acrylic polymers) 350.°F, Silicone oil 350.°F, Mineral oils 200.°F, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200.°F, Carnauba wax 183.°F, Bee’s wax 130.°F in actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt.

For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85. °F in direct sunlight will obtain a temperature of 195. °F or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range

The most important thing to be aware of when preparing to wax your car is the temperature of the actual surface area being waxed. This is even more important than the ambient temperature, which should be between 50° and 80. °F (10° - 26.7. °C) Higher temperatures will cause the solvents to flash leaving a ‘hard’ wax on the paint surface that is very difficult to remove.

If the car has been in the sun for any time, it should be brought into the shade and allowed to cool off before applying any wax or glaze. Applying wax when the temperature is less than 60.°F could result in streaking or difficulty in removing it from the surface.  

Storage (Product)

All car acre products are negatively impacted by wide temperature fluctuations and extremes of high or low temperatures, especially with the now VOC compliant chemicals. As far as wax storage is concerned standard room temperature will suffice; a refrigerator provides a stable temperature / humidity, which equates to a longer shelf life to the products.

Water-based car care products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.F (wax 45.F) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.F with an average humidity range. Most car care products have a ‘useful life’ of approximately 2-3 years provided they are stored as above.

Keep containers tightly closed and ensure they are not compromised (fractured or leaking seals) store in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Do not allow to freeze. 

Do not store at temperature extremes (below 40 – over 80.^OF +) as heat will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc)

Avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable, which will create problems with the performance of the product. Some separate out; others lose their effectiveness if they are heated past a certain point. Most car care products will separate and may become unusable after being subjected to freezing temperatures.  Products should never be used whilst separated; unmixed chemicals may result in a very concentrated mixture, which could inflict damage

All chemicals should be stored in a closed cabinet or at the very least out of direct sunlight exposure for extended periods of time. Sun can cause colour and scent changes, as well as affect their performance; especially with products like Glass Cleaner, Waterless Wash, and APC. Exposing chemicals to sunlight during use shouldn’t be of concern, but try to return the bottles to a shady or covered area if they won't be used for more than a few minutes.

The chemical composition of waxes rarely ever change regardless of what form it is in, whether it is melted to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid. Temperature has little to no effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax, a cool temperatures and constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.

Sunlight - all chemicals should be stored in a closed cabinet or at the very least out of direct sunlight exposure for extended periods of time.

Sun can cause colour and scent changes, as well as affect their performance; especially with products like Glass Cleaner, Waterless Wash, and APC. Exposing chemicals to sunlight during use shouldn’t be of concern, but try to return the bottles to a shady or covered area if they won't be used for more than a few minutes.

Shelf-Life

Providing their contains have a tight seal, are not compromised by fractures or (air) leaks, and use at least a single stage chlorination of the plastic, so that  it is resistant to petrochemical solvents; without this the sides will ‘collapse’, which is actually the solvents in the product escaping through the micro pores of the plastic.

All liquid products should be shaken well before use and stored in light resistant containers

a) Polymers have a shelf life of approx 3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above

b) Nanotechnology coatings - should be stored in tightly sealed containers and protected from heat and moisture. Recommended storage temperatures are 30. ° - 122. °.F Shelf life is approximately 12 months, provided the material is stored in sealed in its original containers, between 65. ° - 75. °.F.

c) Polish - technically 2 years, providing the bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated or the solvents haven’t  evaporated by leaching ( the bottle will become semi- collapsed) there should be no problem with use for three years after sale date

d) Waxes - will last almost indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original containers and in the refrigerator or controlled environment once opened.

Liquid - should last approx 18 months if stored at normal room temperature. 

Paste wax – once the solvents evaporate the wax will solidify and shrink, which will negatively impact both spread ability and adherence

e) Detailing Chemicals (Wheel cleaners, All purpose cleaners (APC) and etc) have an almost indefinite shelf life if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above, see also Product separation

f) Product separation - if product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes.

Product shelf -life may vary from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg or vend

All car care products are negatively impacted by wide temperature fluctuations and extremes of high or low temperatures. As far as wax storage is concerned standard room temperature will suffice; a refrigerator provides a stable temperature / humidity, which equates to a longer shelf life to the products.

Water-based car care products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.F (wax 45.F) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.F with an average humidity range.

Product shelf -life may vary from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product manufacturer .