Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Optimum Polymer Technologies (ONR)


Soap is a blend of surfactants that are designed to emulsify (dissolve) oils into water. There is nothing in soap to help with dirt removal. Foam is a by-product of soap and it is caused by entrapment of air in soap and water. People perceive foam to create lubricity and correlate it to concentration and cleaning ability of soap. In fact, manufacturers add foamers to increase foam to capitalize on these misconceptions.

No Rinse is based on reactive polymers that have the ability to bond to surfaces as well as dirt or oily particles. These polymers have much greater lubricity than soap and form a film around the particles as well as paint to protect from marring. The concentration of these polymers is very high which is why only 1 oz. per wash is needed. In fact, when people use 3-4 oz., they complain about the excess lubricity and streaking! If anyone washes half their car with no rinse and the other half with soap, over time, they will see marring on the soap side only! That is why many add no rinse to their soap bucket before washing, which works well. However, because of the nature of these reactive polymers in concentrated form, they react with soap and foaming agents to form a gel (you can try this by mixing soap concentrate with no rinse). That is why we cannot add foaming agents to no rinse!

The Water softening ability of ONR comes from bonding and removing minerals from water which takes place by the polymers in No Rinse in the same way as it bonds to dirt or other surfaces. The polymers remove minerals from water by bonding and trapping them similar to how they remove dirt particles and drop them down to the bottom of solution. There is nothing in soap that has that ability hence dirt or contaminants float in the solution. The reactivity of the polymers come from having both negatively charged and positively charged groups in the polymer, which gives it a zwitterionic character. It can therefore bond with any particle whether they are anionic or cationic in nature. With the new no rinse wash and wax, we have further increased the lubricity, gloss, and protection. There is no product out there that can match the performance of these products.

Water Conservation / Usage Restrictions

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Government Accountability Office and other sources, many homeowners and businesses are going to face potentially huge increase in water and sewer rates for the foreseeable future. Already, some consumers are seeing price hikes of 50 percent to 90 percent or more.
Due to water usage restrictions in a (very) few more years the waterless wash will be the only legal way to wash vehicles. The environmental protection agency (EPA) is going to continue to put restrictions to conserve our lessening water resources, which will put an end to traditional car washings methods.

California and Florida are more environmentally aware than most other states; this is due, to consumers in these states having a greater awareness of environmental issues, helped along, in California at least, by regulation
Based on an estimated 32-billion gallons of fresh water consumed annually in the USA to wash cars (both commercially and at home), that’s approximately enough to supply the drinking water  for the US for a year, the conservation of such a valuable resource make perfect sense, we should all do our part in this.

Our Water Supply, Down the DrainWashington Post, by Robert Glennon, August 23, 2009

Car Washing Water Usage

·         Automatic car wash: 25 gal
·         Hose wash: 6.5 gal, assuming a stop/start nozzle or gun rather than running continuously for 30 minutes
·         Bucket wash: 25 gal - using buckets to wet the car and rinse it. If the car was only mildly dirty you could use a rinse-less wash with and wash a car with 5 gal
All numbers are approximations only

Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act (Proposition 65)

In 1986, California voters approved an initiative to address their growing concerns about exposure to toxic chemicals. That initiative became the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, better known by its original name of Proposition 65. Proposition 65 requires the State to publish a list of chemicals known to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. This list, which must be updated at least once a year, has grown to include approximately 775 chemicals since it was first published in 1987.

Proposition 65 requires businesses to notify Californians about significant amounts of chemicals in the products they purchase, in their homes or workplaces, or that are released into the environment. By providing this information, Proposition 65 enables Californians to make informed decisions about protecting themselves from exposure to these chemicals. Proposition 65 also prohibits California businesses from knowingly discharging significant amounts of listed chemicals into sources of drinking water.

Disposal of Aqueous Solutions

One should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of down the drain. Your local water treatment authority or publicly owned treatment works will have information on treatment and disposal of these cleaners. Adjustment of pH and dilution are usually required before disposal to a drain. Always comply with current water usage and disposal regulations / water usage restrictions.

A car care product may be biodegradable and environmentally safe but it’s not about what’s in the wash per se;  just remember the dirt, oil and road grease you are cleaning with it are not, once rinsed off the vehicle paint surface the resultant solution is no longer biodegradable or environmentally safe

Most local water authorities’ regulations prohibit car wash water run-off going into the storm drains. This product is specially formulated to clean and protect automotive surfaces safely and efficiently without using water.
The soy-based polymers used in Optimum Polymer Technologies products are both paint / body shop safe and will not interfere with the outgas process of freshly applied paint


Optimum Polymer Technologies (ONR) vs Soap

Soap is a blend of surfactants that are designed to emulsify (dissolve) oils into water. There is nothing in soap to help with dirt removal.  Foam is a by-product of soap and it is caused by entrapment of air in soap and water. People perceive foam to create lubricity and correlate it to concentration and cleaning ability of soap. In fact, manufacturers add foamers to increase foam to capitalize on these misconceptions.
ONR have set the standard in waterless washing by using encapsulating polymers and surfactants to safely remove dirt/grime without causing surface scratching.

Waterless polymer based systems do not require pre-wetting the surfaces. A combination of polymers and surfactant cleaners safely removes dirt and grime and leaves a glossy protective finish. The polymers and surfactants used in these non-rinse washes have the capability to bond to dirt particles and act as a barrier between the dirt particles and the paint. The grime and dirt is then trapped in the surfactant, protecting the paint finish without the need to use large amounts of water to flush the dirt off the vehicle.

With our busy schedules it’s very difficult to find enough time to wash your car and what with water restrictions and concerns for the environment it is even more difficult. Even when it's freezing outside it allows you to wash your vehicle. Some communities (condos, housing associations) prohibit the use of the traditional car washing (water hose and bucket) or severely restrict or do not allow car washing due to drought and water restrictions. Low winter temperatures make car washing difficult (and uncomfortable)

Optimum No Rinse™ Wash & Shine

This is the most technologically advanced car wash system that only requires 1-2 gallons of water to wash the entire car. It does not require rinsing since there are no soapy surfactants to wash off into the storm drains. An innovative product that protects automotive paint, while preserving our most valuable resource, water; enabling you to wash your car anywhere, even in freezing temperatures or even inside your garage. It’s a multi-purpose product that serves as a shampoo additive, no rinse wash, quick detailer and clay lubricant.

No Rinse is based on reactive polymers that have the ability to bond to surfaces as well as dirt or oily particles. These polymers have much greater lubricity than soap and form a film around the particles as well as paint to protect from marring. The concentration of these polymers is very high which is why only 1 oz. per wash is needed. In fact, when people use 3-4 oz., they complain about the excess

The science behind this cleaning process is pretty simple. When sprayed on a dirty surface;  surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, polymers encapsulate the soil particles in the media used, and  the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) residue removal using a minimum amount of water. A micro fibre towel is then used to wipe away the dirt.  A second dry microfiber towel is used to help polish away any remaining formula and buff the surface to a clean, streak-free shine.

No rinse contains encapsulating polymers that are soy based and there is no silicone whatsoever in this product. In fact you can paint right over it which would be impossible if it had any silicones.

This unique product contains substantive polymers which bond to the paint and protect it during the wash. Therefore, ONR offers better protection and lubricity than a conventional car wash, leaving a sleek finish behind afterwards.
Additional benefits are faster washes, ability to wash anywhere at any time including washing inside the garage during the cold months, no messy water runoffs, and greater looking car finishes.

The way ONR works without a pre-soak or rinsing is because the substantive polymers bond to the paint quickly to keep the surface lubricated, emulsify and encapsulate dirt to prevent marring, and leave behind a polymer shine. In order to do that, the encapsulation process will allow large, harmful particles to sink to the bottom of your bucket, and the smaller, soluble particles will actually be broken down so small that they are tiny enough to be pulled into the fibres of your wash mitt. That is why you need a detergent/degreaser to make them release. That isn't necessary with tradition shampoos because they are usually nothing more than soap and don't provide the level of safety that ONR does.

Particles small enough to be absorbed by the fibres are not a danger. One thing many have discovered is that foam wash media does not stain to the level that microfiber does. We offer the Opti Mitt for this very reason. It is made from the same soft foam used in high quality foam finishing pads so it is very safe and effective with No Rinse or traditional washes."


These are some of the reasons Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) is being used by many professional detailers across the country

Used as a winter car wash or in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc.  cleans and protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz. ONR per 2- gallons of water to wash the entire car.

For best results swirl-free results, use Optimum's high lubricity wash Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine along with a towel with a thick nap, 500-600 gram weight in a 16 x 16 –inch size seem to work best.




Optimum Red Sponge - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGmCZj-vdXk&feature=youtu.be

How does ONR work?

[The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water.
The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles.

The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces.

When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. ] - David Ghodoussi - Optimum Polymer Technologies

To remove stains the surface tension that bonds them must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed. ONR is an almost waterless wash that doesn’t require rinsing, it’s formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact; it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. A surfactant or surface active agent is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces. They emulsify the dirt; the polymer protects the paint surface by forming a molecular bond, which remains even after the wash, offering protection comparable to that of a spray wax

ONR is an  ionic wash that contains zwitterions (hybrid) [: a chemical compound that carries a total net charge of 0, thus electrically neutral but carries formal positive and negative charges on different atom]  This allows the polymers to attach to the dirt and form a molecular bond to the surface at the same time. ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally; so you should change washing media as needed

The polymers also bond to automotive paint surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted surfaces (unlike a polymer).

The polymer protection left behind from ONR is very much dependent upon the water hardness. The polymers bond to the paint surface; this will also provide limited surface protection. That is something that other soaps will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted surfaces. This will have a limited effect on the durability of an applied LSP.

ONR is better and safer then soap
 Lubrication-, ONR lubricates through all phases of washing, washing with soap provides lubrication while the suds are on the paint, but then it gets rinsed off, and the drying process has no protection. Water is by definition a solvent, so with a soap wash you are trying to dry with a solvent that has high surface tension, ONR has a very low surface tension, and provides exceptional lubrication for all phases of the washing experience.

Optimum Opti™ - Clean

For really dirty surfaces
Based on the same surfactant type polymers used in Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) it has increased cleaning ability but is safe for use on all automotive surfaces. ONR works fine for a car with light to medium road dirt while Optimum Opti™ - Clean can be used on a car with several days of built- up road salt, dirt and grime.  The reason is that Opti™ - Clean contains the same polymers as  ONR that encapsulate dirt but at a much higher concentration, as well as additional polymers not used in ONR.

Alternative: Use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer by spraying it on the panels and allow to dwell, this will remove baked on dirt and etc.  Rinse with clean water and then dry, this will create a super slick, incredibly glossy finish.
 [While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti™ - Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash] David Ghodoussi OPT.

A totally waterless wash that provides some surface protection and  its ideal for a quick clean up or for use when there is no water available (apartments, condominiums, concours d’élégance or car shows) Simply spray Optimum Opti-Clean on any surface and wipe off with a plush microfiber towel till the area is clean and dry.

Always work in a shaded area on a surface that is cool to the touch. Make sure surface is not gritty with dirt or sand to avoid scratching. Optimum Opti™ - Clean water-less wash is designed to wipe away dirt and grime from automotive paint and other surfaces safely and effectively in a spray and wipe application. The substantive polymers encapsulate the dirt and grime to protect the paint from marring while lubricating and bonding to the painted and other automotive surfaces to provide greater protection while leaving a slick glossy finish behind.

Application-
 Avoid cross-contamination by using different micro fibre towels for differing surfaces i.e. separate towels for glass, paintwork, wheels, and interior surfaces. Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and fold the towel in quarters.

Bodywork - Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with an OPT Foam Wash Mitt or a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate

Glass surfaces - using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.

Wheels and lower paint panels - using a separate micro fibre towel, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off.

Road salt - to remove salt and road grit or to clean really soiled surfaces I would suggest a pre-rinse to remove the larger dirt particles first before being washed. Then use the ONR concentrates or the traditional two-bucket wash method or if you have a pressure washer available to remove the larger dirt / salt particles.

The number of towels and how much product you'll use will vary depending on how dirty the vehicle is but an average is five (5) towels per vehicle.

Alternative ONR wash method- Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and a similar solution /in a bucket. Place 10 – 12 micro fibre towels in the bucket, wring one (drying) towel lightly,  mist spray a panel and then take a wet towel and wipe down a panel in one direction only, change to a clean surface of the towel as necessary. 

When you have cleaned the panel place the used towel in an empty buck for washing later. With the drying towel wipe down the panel, finally with a clean, dry waffle weave micro fibre buff the panel to a shine (Based on a method by Gary Dean)

Use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer by spraying it on the panels as you dry the vehicle. This will create a super slick, incredibly glossy finish.

Note:
 If you mix with potable (tap) water the product may lose its colour; this is due to a chemical reaction with the impurities (Calcium and Magnesium) in the water; using a distilled water dilute it will not change.

The Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt is a soft (80 – 100 PPI) nonabrasive wash mitt designed to be used with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine and Optimum Car Wash to remove grime without scratching. The porous foam "absorbs" dirt and oil to prevent paint marring. The coarse yellow foam is excellent at cleaning wheels. Use the Opti-Mitt every time you wash your vehicle for safe, swirl-free washing.

Directions for using the concentrate:
·         Make up and aqueous solution Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate diluted ith1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle

·         Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with an OPT Foam Wash Mitt or a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed.

·         Glass and interior surfaces, using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.

·         Wheels and lower paint panels, using a separate micro fibre towel, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).

Notes:
Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula is not affected by freezing and thawing. Therefore, there should be no affect in the performance of this product.

Kwazar Mercury Pro - spray bottles are designed specifically for cleaning and detailing professionals. Every pump delivers twice the product onto the surface. High-density Polyethylene (HDPE) is resistant to many different solvents

Plus this sprayer has Viton ® Seals for high temperature and chemically aggressive applications, the spray can be adjusted from fine mist to a constant stream and also has stainless steel (chemical resistant) trigger spring fitted. Sizes available in 0.5 Litre (17 oz.) and 1 Litre (33oz.), available in blue, green, red, and yellow spray tops

Hard Water

                Here’s a way to minimize the effects of hard water when washing your vehicle.

If you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide, magnesium or silicates, some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. By adding Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR).to a regular car wash soap will improves the results when using tap water (0.5 oz. / gallon) always add it to the water to remove the minerals before adding your soap. This will maximize the benefits of using No Rinse in this manner.

Rinse less Wash
The science behind this cleaning process is pretty simple. When sprayed on a dirty surface;  surfactants break down the soil by releasing its surface tension or bond with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, and  the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) residue removal using a minimum amount of water. A micro fibre towel is then used to wipe away the dirt and formula. A second dry microfiber towel is used to help polish away any remaining formula and buff the surface to a clean, streak-free shine.

Typical Product – Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).

Surfactants

surfactant or surface active agent is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from the surfaces by lowering the surface tension of the medium in which it is dissolved.

By lowering this interfacial tension between two media or interfaces (e.g. water/dirt) the surfactant plays a key role in the removal and suspension of dirt. The lower surface tension of the water makes it easier to lift dirt and grease off of surfaces, and help to keep them suspended in the dirty water

ONR Directions

1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket
2. Soak wash media (Grout Sponge, Monster Fluffy towel or a wash Mitt) in solution and wash vehicle in sections
3. Dry each section with two clean towels consecutively

Clean the vehicle in this order
1.        Hood, front windshield
2.        Trunk, rear windshield
3.        Half of roof, each side to rockers
4.        Second half of roof, each side to rockers
5.        Bumpers, rockers
6.        Wheel surfaces
7.        Engine compartment

This is usually a progression from the least to the most soiled areas.

ONR Wash Methodology
·         Optional Pre-Soak (very dirty surfaces) - Spray down individual panels with a 1:20 solution ONR / distilled water with a fine mist spray bottle,  then wipe-down each panel with a wet micro fibre towel
·         For really dirty vehicles, use a pre-spray and mix a second solution half way through the process.
·         Use a Monster Fluffy micro fibre towel for washing.
·         ONR washing solution 1- oz. / 2- gallons of water
·         Take one towel and wet it with ONR washing solution 
·         Wring it out and make a single pass per clean side of the towel.
·         You can get 4-8 passes, with the towel folded in quarters. Each pass is then done with a perfectly clean towel surface and you're never rinsing any dirt out and releasing it in to your wash or rinse water. You can do the whole car with 2-4 towels.

·         Apply no pressure to the towel. I just glide it over the surface and only make one pass in one direction with a clean surface.

·         If you use the two bucket method (one fitted with a Grit Guard and one fitted with a Dirt Dropper) which highly recommended with this type of product, the wash solution will stay clean enough to be reusable as a pre-soak solution or for cleaning wheel surfaces.

·         ONR is formulated to ensure that dirt particles won’t mix with the solution but fall to the bottom of the bucket.

·         There is no need to rinse afterwards with ONR, but if you feel you must, please ensure that the water goes to a sewer and not a storm drain; either way the lubricating polymers in the No Rinse do a better job of protecting the finish than conventional car soap.

·         ONR is ultra violet (UV) sensitive, it causes it to lighten its colour, but has no detrimental effect

An ONR wash used in tandem with Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer, Finish Kare 425 or Ultima Detail Spray for a ‘just waxed’ look  If you use the two bucket method (one fitted with a grit guard) the wash solution will stay clean enough to be reusable. ONR is formulated to ensure that dirt particles won’t mix with the solution but fall to the bottom of the bucket.

The key to using ONR is to make sure your panel is thoroughly ‘washed’. This doesn't mean that you have to saturate your mitt and/or panel with the ONR but rather go over that panel 2 or 3 times if needed. When you wipe dry there should be no remaining dirt on the panel. If need be use several mitts, discarding a mitt as it becomes visually dirty. When finished there should be little or no water on the ground.

Sprayer System

I strongly recommend using ONR as a pre-wash using a mister/sprayer type of device. This will help to loosen or emulsify the dirt that is on the paint surface. This will also help to remove surface dirt without creating scratches or surface marring.

 No power cords necessary no waste, no bulk carry around; Gilmour Pesticide Spray Unit, United States Plastic Corporation ® Sprayer or Solo Hand Pump Sprayer, Model# 418-1L from Northern Tool Company it makes rinse less / water less detailing a breeze. Dilute as instructed. Simply misted onto surface, one softens, lifts, and encapsulates dirt particles in a protective lubricant that is easily and safely wiped away with a micro fibre towel.

Heavy duty construction- the walls of the pressure chamber are over 0.25- inch thick.  Keeping in mind that the high pressure system can retain some serious pressure once pumped we developed the walls to be extra thick. The Matt Clear HDPE packaging is also 100% recyclable and UV treated to protect the product inside.  Heavy Duty construction guarantees a long life to your sprayer even in the event that you should drop it.  Remember to always release pressure inside bottle when you’re finished, by simply loosening the top

Washing Vintage or Classic Cars

Washing these vehicles with a conventional wash will allow moisture to permeate seams and small openings allowing the formation of corrosion (rust). Restoration is a very expensive undertaking, which involves the removal of the body from the frame to eliminate metal corrosion.

The soy based polymers in Optimum Polymer Technologies ONR will not cause corrosion and may be a valuable service to offer a client with this type of vehicle (based on an idea by M Phillips)

Single Bucket Method

Use 1 oz. of ONR added to 2 gallons of water, when using a rinse bucket, there is no need to add No Rinse to the second bucket. However, you should wring the towel well after rinsing so that you do not dilute the wash bucket.

Various Uses for diluted ONR
Dilutions as per label

ONR Dilutions (Per Label):
·        Wash solution: ratio 1:256 or 1 oz. /2 gallons or 30 ml to 7.68 litres of water (3.9 ml per litre)
·        Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz. /1 gallon or 60 ml to 3.84 litres of water (15.6 ml per litre)
·        Quick Detailer: ratio 1:16 or 8 oz. /1 gallon or 240 ml to 3.84 litres for water (62.5 ml per litre)

Capacity of the caps:
·        8oz. size cap holds 0.25 oz. / 7.5 ml
·        32oz size cap holds 0.5 oz. / 15 ml

·        128oz size cap holds .5 oz. / 15 ml

Note:
1.        The use of ONR in a distilled water solution is an efficient method of cleaning as the polymers that are used to encapsulate soiling are not binding to any minerals found in ‘hard’ water, thereby increasing its effectiveness.
2.        A solution with the dilutions (ratios) suggested utilizing a 16oz spray bottle (128 oz. = 1 Gallon) makes its application easier


One of the first rules of paint care (especially noticeable with dark colours); the less you touch the paint surface; the less you’ll scratch it. Washing the car is the most efficient way of removing surface soil, dust, etc.

If you don’t have time for a two-bucket wash, then use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap dry surface dust, pollen or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches. Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only

1.        Pre Wash Cleaner – 2oz.per gallon solution in a spray bottle

2.        Engine Cleaning
·         Mix up some ONR (QD strength) in a garden pest pump spray
·         You’ll need a few small brushes and old terry cloth towels.
·         Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S Total Auto Wash
·         Spray the engine and let the solution dwell for a few minutes. 
·         Agitate with brushes to loosen road dirt, oil and grime as needed.
·         Re-spray with ONR solution, then wipe dry.
·         Start engine and let it run until completely dry.
·         Use Iz einszett Gummipflege or CD-2 for all hoses etc.

Note - Do not direct spray to any sensitive electrical components (see “Engine Bay Detailing” article for details)

3.        Paint Surface Drying Aid – dilute 1:20 with distilled water, the solvent/polymers drastically reduce drying time and provides a safe polymer barrier between the drying towel and the paint, thereby  reducing the chances of towel induced marring

Ratios
All amounts must be in the same unit of measurement; so taking the example of clay lube, to make one gallon of lube, them the fraction would be 2/128 oz. (128 oz. = 1 US Gal or 3.7 litres)
Now say you want to make 32oz of clay lube, take 2/128 = X/32 and cross multiply. The "X" is the amount of ONR you need to add. So you get 128X=64, divide both sides by 128, and you get 0 .5oz to add to 32oz of water to get the correct ratio solution.

Mercury Pro + Sprayer - High-density Polyethylene (HDPE) their high quality Viton ® Seals guarantee fault- free operation and are is resistant to many different solvents and can be used for both high temperature and chemically aggressive applications, the double action (works on both pull and release) spray and can be adjusted from fine mist to a constant stream and also has stainless steel (chemical resistant) trigger spring fitted. Sizes available in 0.5 Litre (17 oz.) and 1 Litre (33oz.), available in blue, green, red, and yellow spray tops. They are simple to use and very efficient.

Removing Bird Excrement

To remove bird excrement without causing scratches; apply very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only, use a product that contains a surfactant; this will lessen surface scratching as it contains extremely good lubricants and ‘lifts’ dust etc. into the media used avoiding surface friction (use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle)

Use a long nap micro fibre towel or an open cell sponge to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap or cells and not on the towel or sponge surface;  thereby causing surface marring. Shake the media occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.

Renew the shine - Optimum QD don’t use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking

Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?

Products- Optimum No Rinse (ONR)Optimum Polymer Technologies (OPT)

Removing Pollen

 [: Micro gametophytes (pollen grains]

The yellow fines to coarse powders you see in the air is made up of small sperm cells from blooming plants and are one of the most common allergy triggers. The pollen from trees are the main concern, vehicles get hit with pollen laced trees that include: oak, western red cedar, elm, birch, ash, hickory, polar, sycamore, maple, cypress and walnut (which also leaves an oily residue). Pollen grains of pines, firs, and spruces are winged.

Pollen must be strong to protect the male gametes on their journey. The outer wall of the pollen grain, called the exine, is composed of a very unusual substance called sporopollenin which is very tough.
The inner layer is made of cellulose and is similar in construction to an ordinary plant cell wall; pollen will literally ‘wear’ away wax or polymer sealants. Pollen isn't removed by air friction as you drive because it adheres to a surface with microscopic barbs that can attach to even a very slightly uneven surface, and adheres to a natural wax better than a synthetic polymer

As well as being allergic pollen is also very abrasive (due to its exine or barbs) and slightly acidic dust, especially when mixed with moisture and should therefore be removed from paint surfaces as soon as is practicable.

To remove heavy dust (do not use a California Duster as the pollen exine will cause surface marring) instead use Optimum No Rinse (ONR) a quick ‘wash’; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. As soon as is practical, thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a hose and clean water to ensure all the pollen is removed.

No wax or polymer sealant can provide a permanent shield against: Micro gametophytes (pollen) Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is probably the most durable Carnauba wax product; but this may only provide enough of a barrier to enable it to be removed quickly before causing too much damage to the paint film surface

Waterless Wash

Optimum Opti™ - Clean is a product that is specially formulated to clean and protect all automotive surfaces safely and efficiently without using any water. A combination of substantive polymers and cleaners safely removes dirt and grime and leaves a glossy protective finish on all automotive surfaces. Optimum Opti™ - Clean is based on the same natural polymers used in Optimum No Rinse™ and is safe for use on all automotive surfaces as well as being safe for the consumer and the environment.

Directions for ready to use: Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed. For glass and interior surfaces, apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel. For lower panels and wheels, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum No Rinse™


Directions for using the concentrate:
         Dilute Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate 1:3 with distilled water. Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed.
·         Glass and interior surfaces, using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.

·         Lower paint panels and wheels, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum No Rinse™

Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt is a soft, nonabrasive wash mitt designed to work with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine to remove grime without scratching. The porous foam absorbs dirt and oil to prevent paint marring. The coarse yellow foam is excellent at cleaning wheels. Use the Opti-Mitt every time you wash your vehicle for safe, swirl-free washing.


Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated



Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ® Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved


Monday, 23 March 2015

Basic insurance for an auto-detailing business


Hopefully this will offer some guidance on the various covers and options available to help you with the decision on what is most appropriate for your business. Seek the advice of a qualified insurance broker to ensure you are covered for the risks inherent in your detailing business,

General Liability Insurance

To protect you from the inherent risks of liabilities imposed by lawsuits and similar claims, this coverage protects your auto detailing customers in the event one of them is injured by a piece of equipment on your property or even in the case that a customer trips on a cord or hose and falls down and is injured while you’re doing work for them. You should look for coverage quotes in the $500,000 to $1 million range, which covers general liability in those amounts for your shop and/or mobile operation.

Garage Keepers Legal Liability Insurance

Fixed-location auto detailing business, you should look for coverage in the $50,000 to $100,000 range for damage to your customer’s vehicles during the time they are in your possession. In addition, coverage should include theft, fire and movement of the vehicles and/or delivery.

Note -turning small claims in to your insurance carrier may result in a higher premium.

If your operation provides pick-up and delivery of customer’s vehicles, a clean driving record keeps premiums low. Same thing goes for your employees. Before hiring anyone, make sure their driver’s license isn’t suspended, revoked or chock full of points. 

This can also affect your insurance rates.
If you are going to use your personal vehicle as your “mobile rig,” you may have to have your policy upgraded to a Commercial policy and that is where “umbrella” coverage could help defray the costs.

Business Interruption Insurance

Business interruption insurance would cover any loss of income that a business may suffer after a disaster while its facility is being rebuilt. If you carry this type of insurance and your auto detailing location is hit by flood, fire or other event that prevents you from working out of the insured location, your expenses are typically for 60 to 90 days.

Workman’s Compensation Insurance

Workers’ compensation is a form of insurance providing wage replacement and medical benefits to employees injured in the course of employment in exchange for mandatory relinquishment of the employee’s right to sue you for negligence. While the cost of workman’s compensation insurance is based on the type of business you run and the number of people you employ, it’s wise to budget on average of $50-$100 per employee per month for coverage. 

Workman’s comp can typically be purchased from the state in which you do business. And if your business is primarily detailing cars, your business should be rated under the classification of “auto laundry.” Just make sure the insurance doesn’t rate you as “auto service,” because your premium will typically be much higher under that type of classification. And as with all other forms of insurance, any claims made could increase the premium.

One final recommendation: Regardless of which type insurance you carry for your auto detailing business, be sure seek the advice of a qualified insurance broker, one that is a “rated” carrier by a credit rating agency dedicated to serving the insurance industry.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated


Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved

Sunday, 8 March 2015

Optimum Polymer Technologies



[While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti™ - Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash] David Ghodoussi OPT.
A totally waterless wash that provides some surface protection and  its ideal for a quick clean up or for use when there is no water available (apartments, condominiums, concours d’élégance or car shows) Simply spray Optimum Opti-Clean on any surface and wipe off with a plush microfiber towel till the area is clean and dry.
Always work in a shaded area on a surface that is cool to the touch. Make sure surface is not gritty with dirt or sand to avoid scratching. Optimum Opti™ - Clean water-less wash is designed to wipe away dirt and grime from automotive paint and other surfaces safely and effectively in a spray and wipe application. The substantive polymers encapsulate the dirt and grime to protect the paint from marring while lubricating and bonding to the painted and other automotive surfaces to provide greater protection while leaving a slick glossy finish behind.
Application-
 Avoid cross-contamination by using different micro fibre towels for differing surfaces i.e. separate towels for glass, paintwork, wheels, and interior surfaces. Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR).diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and fold the towel in quarters.
Bodywork - Spray liberally on painted surfaces and wipe clean with an OPT Foam Wash Mitt or a plush microfiber towel. Fold and use a new section of the towel as needed. When there is heavy dirt build up, use Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate
Glass surfaces - using a separate micro fibre towel apply one or two sprays and wipe off with a clean plush microfiber towel.
Wheels and lower paint panels - using a separate micro fibre towel, spray liberally and let it soak for a few seconds and then wipe off.
Road salt - to remove salt and road grit or to clean really soiled surfaces I would suggest a pre-rinse to remove the larger dirt particles first before being washed. Then use the ONR concentrates or the traditional two-bucket wash method or if you have a pressure washer available to remove the larger dirt / salt particles.
The number of towels and how much product you'll use will vary depending on how dirty the vehicle is but an average is five (5) towels per vehicle.

Alternative ONR wash method- Mix an aqueous solution Optimum (OPT) No Rinse™ Wash & Shine New Formula (ONR) diluted 1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle and a similar solution /in a bucket. Place 10 – 12 micro fibre towels in the bucket, wring one (drying) towel lightly,  mist spray a panel and then take a wet towel and wipe down a panel in one direction only, change to a clean surface of the towel as necessary. When you have cleaned the panel place the used towel in an empty buck for washing later. With the drying towel wipe down the panel, finally with a clean, dry waffle weave micro fibre buff the panel to a shine (Based on a method by Gary Dean)
Use Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer by spraying it on the panels as you dry the vehicle. This will create a super slick, incredibly glossy finish.
Note:
 If you mix with potable (tap) water the product may lose its colour; this is due to a chemical reaction with the impurities (Calcium and Magnesium) in the water; using a distilled water dilute it will not change.
The Optimum Opti-Mitt 8 Inch Foam Wash Mitt is a soft (80 – 100 PPI) nonabrasive wash mitt designed to be used with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine and Optimum Car Wash to remove grime without scratching. The porous foam "absorbs" dirt and oil to prevent paint marring. The coarse yellow foam is excellent at cleaning wheels. Use the Opti-Mitt every time you wash your vehicle for safe, swirl-free washing.

Saturday, 14 February 2015

Basic 3- Step Leather Care

Basic 3- Step Leather Care
1.        Clean
2.        Hydrate
3.        Protect




Finished Leather

The amount of conflicting information out there is just overwhelming, correct information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information.
There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care  being put out by leather experts themselves who recommend the same products and techniques be used regardless of the leathers finish or use baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, Furniture, Motorcycle, Equestrian and Automobile leather are all different type of leather finishes and require different care. You do need to understand some of the basic chemistry behind the tanning and finishes applied to automotive leather to understand how to renovate, clean or care for it.

All of which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Using the correct product is important in order to protect your car’s interior. If you keep your cars’ interior clean, you can easily save your car for a good couple of years and it can stay in a ‘like-new’ condition, and maintain a better re-sale value. Cleanliness is one of the major things buyers look for when purchasing a vehicle. There are several finished leather upholstery cleaners available, which need to be used in accordance to the type of finished leather used in for your vehicles upholstery.

That is why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable for your requirements.

After various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material on both a practical and scientific level.
It had always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice

Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather not with the leather hide itself

The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that is missing from urethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.  

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased urethane finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and a urethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish with an average thickness of 0.02 µ (micron)   
Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning  processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence  they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins. Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area.

Finished leather doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating (urethane) on the leather and not with the leather hide itself

Leather Care

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, commercially unbiased answer. Having devoted many hours to this particular material and spending a lot of time with both leather tanners and their formulating chemists I have gained some insight and it amazes me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated.

Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish (urethane), not the hide itself. The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Since the leather hide has a pigmented urethane layer and clear topcoat finish, when treating the leather, so you are in fact dealing with a urethane (to all intents and purposes, a ~2.0 µ (micron) thick plastic surface coating, about the same thickness as automobile clear coat paint; that simply needs to be kept clean and hydratedit really is that simple.

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased a urethane finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and urethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish

Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning  processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence  they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.

Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that is missing from urethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.  

Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.  

1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely.  The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear

Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp 100% cotton terry weave towel

The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive leathers. Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried. Remove excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. If the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the surface. Check the results and repeat process as necessary

For heavily soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush) especially on light coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer, stains, etc.) A water based foam cleaner will work best and safely (not an aerosol foam that will contain solvents).

If you use a foam cleaner you can give the product dwell time and because the foam is already an active cleaner it will draw the dirt out of the grain pattern into the foam and it can then be removed with paper towel or a terry towel. Foams also ensure that you do not get 'streaking' from runs on the leather from a liquid cleaner - these are often impossible to get rid of without recoloring if allowed to happen. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.  

Finished Leather

Using a cleaner that contains a surfactant that emulsifies contaminants minimizes the need for abrasion (1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner) Abrasion will leave micro marring in the coating which creates more surface area for contaminants to bond with.

Optimum Protectant Plus (Leather Protectant) – a versatile product that cleans and protects and also provides ultra violet (UV) protection, can be used on vinyl, rubber, leather, and plastic.  Spray mist the Protectant Plus on a microfiber towel and wipe the desired surfaces
All purpose cleaners

An all purpose cleaners (APC) generally require dilution as they are usually highly alkaline - pH 9.5 – 12.5 dependent upon mfg. they usually contain caustic soda or caustic potash. Caustics at high enough concentration can damage the urethane coated leather and cause stitching to start deteriorating. If the dilution is wrong and/or the product is too strong it could potentially damage the finish on the leather, which will lead to long term problems and/or require replacement It’s better to use a specific stain remover than to compromise. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment
Many well-intentioned detailers use the so-called all-purpose cleaning (APC) chemical for detailing; if the dilution is incorrect and/or the product is too strong it could potentially damage the materials being worked on, which will lead to long term problems and/or require replacement. Damage to the finish is not always visible to the naked eye. Products that are too strong for the finish will always leave the leather very clean looking but this is only because they are removing some of the urethane finish along with the dirt.
Most detailing chemicals are formulated to remove specific stains and a little knowledge of their pH value and chemical content will help in their correct selection and use; the most common types of chemicals include surfactants, solvents, Saponifiers and Chelators
Pigment coatings and clear coat finishes do break down over time if not correctly cared for. Once the coatings begin this deterioration it can appear that they are very dirty when in fact the 'dirt' is micro cracking of the pigment, this would not be visible to the naked eye but can be seen through a microscope. If this micro cracking is present no amount of cleaning will rectify it, it will need a restoration product to refinish the pigment coating. Products that are too strong for the finish will always leave the leather very clean looking but this is only because they are removing some of the urethane finish with the dirt. After repeated use the finish may be become delaminated or removed completely.
For extremely soiled finished leather - use a Groit’s 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush for Orbital Polisher ( Porter Cable 7424, Groit’s Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo )  The brush has a connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers. For extremely soiled finished leather - use a Groit’s 3- inch (speed # 4-5) a Grey Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush for Orbital Polisher ( Porter Cable 7424, Groit’s Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo x 2 )  The brush has a connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers.

Be cognizant that abrasion will leave micro marring in the coating which creates more surface area for contaminants to bond with. Aggressive agitation has the likelihood of removing the clear topcoat or marring it creating more micron fractures for soiling particles to lodge in. A soft horsehair brush (Swissvax) is highly recommended as it will always retain its even level upon surface contact even deep into the grooves with good memory; however horsehair brushes still comes in various design some good and some design is just too long that does not stand straight when wet, for efficient cleaning. If using mechanical abrasion it is imperative that a soft bristle brush be used (Grey Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush for Orbital Polisher) 

Use with 1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for that removes build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore the original texture, tactile feel and resiliency of the urethane finish or Leather Master™ Strong C leaner, using very little applied pressure

Cracking occurs in two levels, one to the leather-finish which comprises the color coat and the topcoat averaging 2.0 µ (micron) and the other is the leather-structure averaging form 0.9 to 1.3µ (micron) thickness.

I would strongly advise against the use of mechanical abrasion as a means of cleaning un-coated leather specially when dealing with leather that is wet. Water easily penetrates unprotected leather, which causes the collagen fibers to swell. This makes leather very soft and highly prone to being abraded and damaged. So when cleaning unprotected leather, you should minimize mechanical cleaning and instead use a cleaning system that is safe but effective to eliminate the need for abrasion.

Steam cleaning- a dry vapour steamer has a multitude of functional usages for urethane finished leather interiors; doors, leather and vinyl upholstery and trim, all clean exceptionally well with steam, it will loosen up the deep ground in soil that normal cleaning cannot reach and emulsify most types of dirt and grime that gets into what are inaccessible places for other methods of cleaning i.e. cup holders, seams, creases and grooves, between cushion and bolsters, liquid spills, etc.
Apply a cleaner (1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) to a sponge, work up a foam and apply to covered leather. Place a terry towel wrapped dry vapour steamer attachment on the finished leather surface and lightly agitate and then wipe dry. This helps emulsify the grime and the water vapour hydrates the leather
Use caution if the finished leathers urethane pigment coating has begun to fail (micro cracking) which cannot be seen with the naked eye but will make the leather appear dirty especially on light coloured leather. Steam or cleaning products may permeate the between the hide and the pigmentation coating causing it to delaminate (separate)
An alternative method: deep cleaning ‘spa method’ by using a heated towel it will open up the micro pours of the leather, allowing the towel to remove the ingrained dirt (this method is also very effective on perforated leather) Take a few very damp terry weave towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave. Using gloves wring out the towels just so they don't drip place them on the leather surface and allow to dwell for a short period. Take a couple of very damp terry weave towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave. Use gloves while handling them, place them on the leather surface and allow to dwell for a short period. Remove the towel and then use a leather cleaner, buff the surface similar to the action used when removing wax (1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner or Optimum Power Clean™)
Note: The melamine open-cell foam Magic Eraser is micro-porous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper. If the surface being cleaned is not sufficiently hard, it may be finely scratched by the melamine material. They work by removing or 'sanding' a very fine amount from the surface that is being cleaned - great for wood and hard surfaces but very detrimental to the fine surface finish on leather

2. Hydrated – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Moisture balance is a sine qua non (an indispensable and essential action) in leather care.  Leather naturally absorbs and retains moisture vapour, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. One of major attribute is its ability for transpiration (allowing the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration), which it does even better than wool.
Repetitive heat cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.

A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and  by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent.

3. Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable, allowing transpiration and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to urethane finished leather, it also adds abrasion resistance, whilst provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer
3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) protection  against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and dashboards
Is water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn’t contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents) 

It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.

Note: this product does NOT air dry.  Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process.  Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability

Patina(softness)  - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre  to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch and allow to dry for approx. 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel  buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces

Maintenance:
Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc. especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Note: Both Lexol and Saddle Soap are formulated for Equestrian tack, which is an entirely different type of leather than the finished leather used for automobiles

Summary:
These are just my recommendation based on my knowledge, detailing experience and the chemistry of leather. Each case is very different and you should choose the best approach based on its merits and your experience and what works best in that situation.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved