Basic
Leather Cleaning
1. Clean 2. Hydrated
3. Protected
Correct information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information.
There is a great deal
of conflicting information on leather care
being put out by leather experts themselves who recommend the same
products and techniques be used regardless of the leathers finish or use
baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, Furniture,
Motorcycle, Equestrian and Automobile leather are all different type of leather
finishes and require different care. You do need to understand some of the basic
chemistry behind the tanning and finishes applied to automotive leather to
understand how to renovate, clean or care for it.
All of
which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Using the
correct product is important in order to protect your car’s interior. If you
keep your cars’ interior clean, you can easily save your car for a good couple
of years and it can stay in a ‘like-new’ condition, and maintain a better
re-sale value. Cleanliness is one of the major things buyers look for when
purchasing a vehicle. There are several finished leather upholstery cleaners
available, which need to be used in accordance to the type of finished leather
used in for your vehicles upholstery.
That is
why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to
achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable
for your requirements.
After
various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and
development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care
product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material
on both a practical and scientific level.
It had
always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so
complicated. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have
at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After
all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have
all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money
and your choice
Always keep in mind that you’re
dealing with the finished coating on the leather not with the leather hide
itself
The use
of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the
adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that
contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the
above
Unless a
Premium Leather option was purchased urethane finished leather upholstery is used
by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and
polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata
are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is
used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very
durable surface finish
Modern
automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing
advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a
consequence they do not need to be
treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that
is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and
protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple
cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the
life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the
product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the
product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time,
and allow product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.
Finished leather doesn’t require
conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep
in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not
with the leather hide itself
Leather
Care
Finished Leather
There is
a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by
leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as
another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive,
commercially unbiased answer.
Having
devoted many hours to this particular material and spending a lot of time with
both leather tanners and their formulating chemists I have gained some insight
and it amazes me that such a simple subject has been made into something so
complicated.
Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish,
not the hide itself. The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor,
oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally
unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it
neither needs or benefits from any of the above
Unless a
Premium Leather option was purchased a urethane finished leather upholstery is
used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic
and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top
strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane
is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very
durable surface finish
Modern
automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing
advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a
consequence they do not need to be
treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that
is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and
protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple
cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the
life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the
product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product
at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow
product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.
Finished leather doesn’t require
conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep
in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not
with the leather hide itself
1. Clean - there
are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear
prematurely. The first is dirt, and the
second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and
subsequent friction cause the finish to wear
Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams
periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them
to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam
cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp
100% cotton micro fibre towel
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount
of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive
leathers.
Use foam cleaner,
which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff
bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture
content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried. Remove
excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. If
the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the surface. Check
the results and repeat process as necessary
For
heavily soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and
soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and
loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush)
especially on light coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro
pores and creases and lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs
doing (dye transfer, stains, etc.)
Alternative
product: Optimum Protectant
Plus (Leather Protectant) – a versatile product
that cleans and protects and also provides ultra violet (UV) protection, can be
used on vinyl, rubber, leather, and plastic.
Spray mist the Protectant Plus on a microfiber towel and wipe the desired
surfaces
For extremely soiled finished leather
a)
Use a Groit’s 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush for Orbital
Polisher ( Porter
Cable 7424, Groit’s Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as
the Cyclo ) The brush has a connector which screw
directly into listed orbital polishers. For extremely soiled finished leather -
use a Groit’s 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush for Orbital Polisher ( Porter
Cable 7424, Groit’s Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch
and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo x 2 ) The
brush has a connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers.
Use with 1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner
(Plastik Reiniger) an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep
cleaner for that removes build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals
restore the original texture, tactile feel and resiliency or Leather
Master™ Strong Cleaner, using very little applied pressure
b)
Deep cleaning ‘spa method’ by
using a heated towel it will open up the micro pours of the leather, allowing
the towel to remove the ingrained dirt (this method is also very effective on
perforated leather)
Take a few very damp terry weave
towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave. Using gloves wring out the towels just so they
don't drip place them on the leather
surface and allow to dwell for a short period. Take a couple of very damp terry
weave towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave. Use gloves
while handling them, place them on the leather surface and allow to dwell for a
short period. Remove the towel and then use a leather cleaner, buff the surface
similar to the action used when removing wax (1z einszett Vinyl Deep
Cleaner or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner)
Note: The melamine open-cell foam Magic Eraser is
micro-porous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for
cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper. If the surface being cleaned
is not sufficiently hard, it may be finely scratched by the melamine material. They
work by removing or 'sanding' a very fine amount from the surface that is being
cleaned - great for wood and hard surfaces but very detrimental to the fine
surface finish on leather
2. Hydrated – when
leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its
moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance
(transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or
replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Moisture
balance is a sine qua non (an indispensable and
essential action) in leather care. Leather naturally absorbs and retains
moisture vapour, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary
to keep it pliant and soft. One of major attribute is its ability for
transpiration (allowing the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation
and hydration), which it does even better than wool.
Repetitive
heat cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of
creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however
the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.
A
regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to
condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that
do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use
them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate
dependent.
3. Protected - is
essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering
transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not
actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface
of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather
Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated
for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and
cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable, allowing
transpiration and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores
moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier
against all
kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so
you are cleaning the protective layer
3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection
- 303®
Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV)
protection against photo degradation
(fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and
dashboards
Is
water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection
against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible
vehicles. It doesn’t contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust.
You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning
agents)
It will
not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of
moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine
coating; it will not seal it per se.
Note: this product does NOT air dry.
Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases
bonding, repellence and durability
Patina(softness)
-
used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft
and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch and allow to dry for approx. 20
minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the
softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll
down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm
the surfaces
Maintenance:
Monthly
hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and
Arizona, and etc. especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Note: Both Lexol and Saddle
Soap are formulated for Equestrian tack, which is an entirely different type of
leather than the finished leather used for automobiles
1. “Leather Articles
Hyperlinks”
2.
“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” -
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