Nitrocellulose
lacquer or Enamel Paints
The older technology
paints on classic vehicles are oil-based and requires the oils in the resin
binder system to be replenished to keep them from becoming too brittle and
cracking
Correction- check the paint with a PTG to see how much paint there is
available before attempting repairs
·
Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
·
A detailer’s clay process will remove any surface
contaminants
·
Use a chemical paint cleaner to remove any oxidation (Klasse All-In-One)
·
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system
(3M
Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before
polishing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
·
Using Gloss It EVP Pad Prime on your pads will help maintain sufficient oil lubrication for
the polish
·
You are now ready to commence the polishing process
I would suggest you
use a wool pad for correction; this will reduce kinetic friction (heat) and not
dry out the oils
Orange
Peel
Is paint film surface that has a dimpled appearance that paint
takes on due to an equipment/operator caused defect? Like wrong paint-gun
pressure and/or distance from panel, an operator not knowing how to set-up the
equipment for that particular type of paint, or even a partly blocked paint-gun
nozzle, improper pre-paint preparation and /or paint application, or uneven
drying of the clear coat.
It should be eliminated after the final shooting of clear coat
by the OEM wet sanding the paint film surface, and polishing with a mildly
abrasive polish and a high-speed rotary polisher.
Note that some degree of orange peel can be found in most finishes,
both OEM and repainted.
Correction- check the paint with a PTG to see how
much paint there is available before attempting repairs Clear coat that is too
thin loses its ability to adhere effectively (delaminating) to the underlying
paint layer and will flake off.
A vehicle with its
original paint has a higher re-sale value than a repaint. Due to the above;
something else to consider is a ‘do nothing’ option and learn to live with it.
It can be
removed by wet-sanding but this entails a substantial reduction in clear coat
thickness, which may eventually entail repainting
Reduction - the way light is reflected from a paint
surface affects the vehicles appearance after it is detailed. Reflection of
light is either Specular (mirror-like) or Diffused (retaining the energy, but
losing the image) depending on the nature of the surface. It is also possible for
reflection to occur from the surface of transparent media, such as water or
glass.
A paint
surface that has 'orange peel' diffuses the light reflection, a wax also shares
this reflection trait in the so-called 'wet-look' (jetting)So by applying a
Carnauba wax to a surface that has 'orange peel' you are not masking the
effect, but disguising it by making the rest of the paint diffuse light
reflection in the same way
Oil Deposits
Usually from diesel fuel exhaust, clean with a chemical paint cleaner
and then apply paint protection
Oxidation
(Reduction)
Two stage paint system-
(base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the
true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and
the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to
dry out or oxidize. The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the
finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing
solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial
airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry
out (oxidize) the paint.
The clear
coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) it is not a solid coating and is
to some extent porous, the top most layer of clear coat paint contains ultra
violet (UV) protection. Oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer
(i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction.
It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to
single stage paint.
Clear-coat dulling has the appearance of
oxidation, i.e. paint surface has little or no gloss and may exhibit a slightly
‘grey’ colour but can usually be rectified without the need to re-paint.
This can
be brought about by abrasive washing which simply dulls the paint; touch less
carwash washing, which uses an acid that dulls the clear-coat and / or simply
from exposure to industrial fallout and UVR, etc.
• Wash the
paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym
Paint Renovator or Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4,
this may take 2-3 applications
• Apply a
paint surface protection
For highly oxidized paint try the following;
this may help to eliminate some of the oxidation-
• Wash the
paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym
Paint Renovator or Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4,
this may take 2-3 or more applications
• Once the
oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (C.Quartz
IronX)
• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the
paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell
time for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an
‘oily’ sheen.
• Remove residue with
1:10 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water
Finally apply a
coating (Opti-Coat™) a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a semi-permanent
continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component
isocyanate that forms a clear coating finish.
Single stage paint systems (base and
colour coat) – without a clear coat to provide protection, primarily a hostile
environment will attack the paint surface causing microscopic gaps and valleys
(micro fissures) and it becomes compromised both chemically; by industrial
fallout (IFO) acid rain, brake /rail dust and etc., and by ultra violet (UV)
heat radiation, which causes it to dry out and/or fail, further causing the
clear coat to expand and often separate from the base coat, allowing
environmental pollutants to penetrate.
Acids
enter the breach formed in the clear coat and attack the resin binder system,
which accelerates the degrading of the paint film surface, eventually leading
to oxidation and/or failure. Oxidation can appear as a dull and somewhat hazy,
or `chalky' appearance to the paint surface, a paint film surface that is
adequately protected with wax or a sealant actually has a lower surface
temperature than one that is not.
A dark
colored vehicle parked in the sun can attain a surface temperature in excess of
200° F With both types of paint system the application of a Carnauba wax
provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne
contaminants, which means the wax is compromised not the paint system
Single
stage is easier to correct than most clear coats, as a general rule use a more
aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish. Start with a Lake
County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam pad with Optimum
Polish or Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP) you may also want to try an
LC yellow cutting foam pad.
If you
need a more abrasive polish; use a high speed rotary and try Optimum
Hyper or Menzerna Power Gloss with a LC
White polishing foam pad, if the results
are not satisfactory then step up by to
going to a LC Orange (light) cutting foam and then if needed a LC Yellow
cutting foam pad.
Polishing
Fresh Paint
If it just came from a paint / body shop fresh paint shouldn’t need
polishing. If it should, I would strongly advise against the use of heavily
applied pressure and overtly abrasive products.
Automotive paint is classified as a semi-permeable membrane; that has
both tensile strength and elongation (elasticity) allowing it to move with
fluctuations in surface temperatures. Newly painted surfaces are full of out
gassing solvents. Kinetic surface friction and applied downward pressure
transfers its energy into heat / torque (force to rotate an object about an
axis) which; causes the paint film paint to become thinner by elongation and
the pad rotation to transmit shear stress (twist), which could result in the
alteration of the paint films bond between its substrate, causing it to
delaminate or tear?
The heat makes the gasses expand (pV = nRT) the expanding gases go
through a phase transition (change in density) and to relive this increased
pressure they rupture the paint film surface and may cause small fissures
(similar to solvent pop or pinholes)
Paint Runs
or Waves
Runs on the vertical
surfaces, is the result of a clear coat that sets up to fast. The slower the
clear dries the more it flows out, the slicker is looks, the faster it dries
the less time it has to flow out. It could also be the result of too much paint applied too quickly and gravity
tends to pull it down (See also Orange
Peel)
Correction- it can also be
removed (with limitations) by wet-sanding (colour sanding)
Paint Cracks
Acid rain,
highly alkaline deposits, industrial fall or bird excrement will cause the
clear coat to become opaque (cloudy) and / or etch (a small circular concave
depression) another type of localized damage created by acidic substances are
the results of water and high temperatures that will cause the polyurethane
clear coat to expand, allowing the acid to breach the clear coat compromising
the paints resin system, which is the binder that holds the clear together. The
resultant cracks created will penetrate the clear coat, possibly down to the
basecoat (colour).
May be due to
painting over ‘filler’ (Bondo) that has subsequently involved in a small hit
Correction- cracked
paint will need to be sanded, feathered, primed and repainted. Most shops will
apply clear coat to the entire panel. .
Paint delaminating
This is usually the result of the vehicle
manufacturer's decision to produce vehicles with one of the following
conditions;
•Insufficient clear coat film build
•Insufficient UV blockers in clear coat
•Surface primer was not applied over the e-coat (anti-corrosive primer)
The e-coat, (first layer of paint coating) is extremely susceptible to ultra
violet rays, when ultra violet radiation (UVR) penetrates the clear coat and
base coat; they are normally stopped by the surface primer.
E-coats oxidize (looks similar to chalk powder) very quickly when exposed to
ultra violet radiation (UVR). Subsequently the base coat and clear coat no
longer have a clean, firm surface to adhere to.
Over time the base coat / clear coat detaches
from the e-coat, resulting in this condition, which cannot be corrected by
polishing or compounding
Correction- It requires
repainting / refinishing by a body shop
Paint
Photo degeneration
Why
does ultra violet radiation have a more pronounced effect on red paint?
The sun gives off
many different kinds of radiation. Most people are familiar with the visible
light spectrum or sunlight, with colours ranging from violet
to red, violet being in the centre and red a little to the left.
Ultra violet light
has two components UV-B (light), which causes photo degeneration and infrared
heat (IR) radiation.
Red paint when subjected
to infrared radiation (IR), the most concentrated form of heat radiation, which
causes the resin (paint binder) in a paint system to dry out (oxidation)
Any dark colour
absorbs heat but the pigmentation in red paint fades quicker and its more noticeable
because the colour fades to a lighter shade (light red or pink) whereas black
fades to a lighter shade but it only noticeable when it’s in an advanced stage
of oxidation.
Allied to this some
red, black and white vehicle paints are single stage, that is they have no
clear coat with its inherent ultra violet radiation protection
Rust blooms
Very small brown
‘pinholes’, they are usually caused by metallic brake dust that has penetrated
the paint film surface and water / acid rain has produced rust.
Correction- sand or
compound with 1200 or finer grit paper to remove and then polish to restore
gloss. Consider using a decontamination product C.Quartz IronX
Rust Spots
Very
small brown ‘pinholes’ or ‘rock chips’, they are usually caused by road grit
that has penetrated the paint film surface and moisture / acid rain has
produced rust.
Correction- sand or
compound with 1200 or finer grit paper to remove, use a rust inhibitor product
Rejex CorrosionX, use chip repair paint and then polish to restore gloss.
Paint Blending (Repairs)
Paint
ages and fades due to ultra violet radiation exposure, which causes photo
degradation (fading). This happens to both the colour and clear but some colour
change more than others; matching paint colours is an art. Combine the base colour coat with flakes and
tints then add a few costs of clear, some tinted and some not.
The quality of the
blend will be determined by several factors....
·
Prep work- sand beyond the area to be painted.
·
Paint normally and thin the paint at the edge of the blend.
·
Apply the clear over the repair, thin it and extend the spot
then dust straight slow reducer over the dry edge to melt the edge into the surface
scratches.
·
Allow the new clear to fully cure before you try to polish the
edge to make the blend invisible.
·
After the application of the
last coat of over-reduced clear, immediately empty out the clear from
the gun and pour in a little slow reducer and dust it lightly over the wet edge
of your blend so that it helps the edge melt into your sanding scratches. Don’t try to make the edge smooth by spraying
this reducer too wet or you will cause the clear to puddle or run and then you
will have bigger problems on your hands.
·
Use high quality materials because low-end products may not bond
to the surface properly and may not get hard enough to polish without breaking
back.
·
A good quality spray gun will also help because you want an even
application of well atomized paint.
Dark colours are much
more critical because you can see problems much more easily than with lighter
colours
Paint Surface
Staining
A
paint film surface becomes stained when continually exposed to an outdoor
environment and inclement weather. Dirt and pollution accumulate in the
microscopic pores and surface imperfections of the paint film surface and
causes it to become clouded and grey, which over time causes a staining effect
that hides the true colour of the paint system.
Chemical
or pre-war cleaners are a mildly abrasive (CAS = 1/10) liquid polish containing
chemicals will remove surface contamination that either normal washing or using
detailer’s clay alone will not remove. Light colored paint shows this staining
more than dark colours; white being
peculiarly vulnerable to staining
Removing paint
staining build-up requires detailer’s clay to remove imbedded particles, a
paint safe chemical cleaner (Klasse AIO) to clean road dirt and grime and a
machine polish to clean the surface and replace the necessary oils. Once the
surface has been ‘cleaned’ apply a polymer sealant and/or a wax for surface
protection.
Removing tyre
‘sling’, exhaust carbon or petroleum gas stains from paintwork- use a
d-Limonene based (citrus) cleaner 3M Citrus Cleaner Adhesive Remover Spray, ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep or
paint cleaner (P21S
Paintwork Cleaner or, Klasse All-In-One)
Paintless Dent Repair (PDR)
[Paintless dent repair (PDR), also known
as "Paintless dent removal", is a collection of techniques for
removing minor dents and dings from the body of a motor vehicle. A wide range
of damage can be repaired using PDR; however, usually if there is paint damage,
PDR may be unsuitable.
The most common practical use for PDR is
the repair of hail damage, door dings, minor body creases, and minor bumper
indentations. The techniques can also be applied to help prepare the damaged
panel for paint. Such applications are referred to as "push to
paint", or "push for paint".]
Limiting
factors for a successful repair using PDR include the flexibility of the paint,
and the amount the metal has been stretched by the damage incurred. Hence,
often extremely sharp dents and creases may not be repairable - at least not
without painting afterwards.
PDR is much
cheaper than traditional repair methods and is superior most of the time for
many reasons. It keeps the factory paint
intact and for the most part, the car does not have to be disassembled in a
major way that can also cause damage. It is also available in most major
cities. However, not all paint less dent
repair companies are equal. Like any job
requiring a lot of skill there are some who are good, some that are bad and
those who excel at this sort of work. I
would suggest working with someone recommended by a detail company as detail
companies are used to having picky customers who require this sort of service
who don't tolerate bad work.
The object of
removing a dent is by pushing the metal from inside the panel. What you need to
watch for is stretching; this occurs when they push too hard.
Also make
sure they do not drill into any panel, as it will cause future rust. No Bondo
or other fillers should be used. If a Paintless repair is carried out on a hood
they must pay special attention to its reinforcement.
Glue and Pull- a good tech will use a combination of
traditional tools as well as glue pulling tools to repair your car. a plastic
tab with an access hole in the centre is glued on to the panel and then pulled
with a slide hammer, any area's that are too high are then very carefully
tapped down.
Drilling
holes into the inner structure isn't allowed under any manufacture's and/or
I-CAR guidelines and some insurance companies have a no drill policy; meaning
that the technicians must not drill to gain access to repair the dents. It's a
safety issue and therefore isn't a good idea.
Many of these
inner panels have crush points that are intentionally designed to deflect
energy away from the occupants, and even a small drilled hole can negatively
affect this from happening. And it can also affect the OEM corrosion warranty;
some rust protection application centres have been sued for drilling access
holes to apply rust protection.
Paintless
dent repair does have limitations, insofar as it cannot perform miracles. It cannot take out huge dents or straighten
bent frames. Some dents behind door intrusion beams or heavy unibody
reinforcement areas where the reinforcement is bonded or welded to the outside
skin are not possible to with this method. It must be possible to reach the backside
of the dent. Long handled and curved
tools help, sometimes small holes need to be drilled but not every dent is
accessible. I'd say 95% of dents can be reached without drilling though.
Sometimes a
repainted car with too thick or poorly prepped paint can have the paint crack
while a repair is being made. Select an operative with experience as in most
things you get what you pay for so check pest repairs and ask for references
for past clients
It would take
approx six months practice to become proficient and the tools are a large
initial outlay (probably too large for an enthusiast detailer) But if you could
find enough of this type of work it’s a great 'up-sell' to offer clients. I
would suggest working with someone recommended by a detail company, as these
companies are used to having picky customers who require this sort of service
who don't tolerate bad work.
Online Access to Videos
and Guides - http://www.pdrsecrets.com/blog/half-off/
Removing
Latex Paint Overspray–
1.
D-limonene based (citrus) based detergents (P21S Total Auto Wash) may help; be sure
to allow plenty of dwell time.
2.
Solvents; dwell time is important, start mild with (3M™ Adhesive and Wax
Remover
or DuPont
Prep Sol
3919
3.
Detailers clay (Auto magic’s Magic Clay) both red and blue grades
4.
Plastic razor blade to mechanically 'chip' the overspray
5.
A combination of the plastic blade or detailers clay and a
solvent, be patient and work small areas when practical.
6.
The painted surfaces are frequently easier than anticipated,
however the rubber and vinyl trim pieces may take more time / patience.
Removing Paint Overspray
Dampen but do not soak a terry cloth towel with lacquer thinner
(do not use mineral spirits or turpentine) and then apply lacquer thinner to
the paint overspray.
Wipe the paint overspray from the vehicle using a terry cloth
and then dry the surface using clean dry 100% cotton towels. Do not leave
lacquer thinner on the car's finish for longer than necessary as this may
damage the clear coat. Use with caution on repainted vehicles
For extensive paint
overspray removal
·
Wet-sand using 2000 grit finishing paper
·
Meguiar’s M105 and a SurBuf R Series pad
·
Meguiar’s M205 and a Lake Country (LC) Green foam pad
Paint overspray ‘spots’ – use detailer’s clay
Removing Oil
Soak the area
with mineral spirits, then use a d-Limonene
based (citrus) safe solvent all purpose cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) once the mineral spirits have broken
down the oil, the all purpose cleaner will create an emulsification of the
oils, hose the area and then wash area with a car wash concentrate.
Removing
dried -on rubber
Use a safe solvent to
remove burned on rubber; that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes
or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents; Autoglym Intensive
Tar Remover, Stoner™ Tarminator, or Wurth Spray Solvent that
simply emulsifies and dissolves the rubber, then use a plastic razor blade to
remove any hard debris.
If this does not
remove the rubber try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer,
which looks and feels like rubber. 3M Stripe
and Decal Remover
Removing (Stripping) Paint
Chemical
paint stripper is the fastest way to remove paint, or at least to get the most
material off quickly. It also allows you to more gently (less scratching) sand
the remaining film off the bare metal. Stripper is easily washed off and
neutralized (follow directions on container) and bare metal can be coated with
metal prep (phosphoric acid).
Dry paint stripping
(Plastic media) one of
the processes involves blasting with a special plastic granule that was
developed for use on military aircraft. This material will remove paint, glue,
and light rust deposits and many under seals but will not generally remove body
seam sealers without concerted effort and not at all in the case of the very
latest products.
The advantages of
using this plastic media over other materials are numerous. The material has a
low mass, thus allowing low air pressure to be used in the blasting process.
This minimizes the kinetic energy involved and consequently the amount of heat
generated, which is the primary cause of damage or distortion to the material
being stripped. This is especially important when working on light metals and
alloys such as aluminium or on composites such as glass fibre or carbon
laminates
Road
Paint (Traffic Lane Paint)
Is a pigmented resin system, very high in solids with a colour aggregate and is more
like an adhesive than paint; it contains silica
(glass) micro beads that help reflect light, however they can cause scratches
if you use mechanical removal.
Correction / Removal - use 3M
Adhesive Remover and detailer’s clay or a plastic razor blade.
3M
Eraser Wheel Detailer’s Clay
Wet-sand
with 2000 - 2500 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit block.
For heavy accumulations or paint that has
dried for several days on the vehicles paint surface, apply a liberal coating
of Vaseline to
the dried traffic paint and allow product to remain overnight and then pressure
wash. This should remove most of the traffic paint. If not, repeat the
procedure.
Road Paint
Remover (wipes) – TOTL; Lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to
saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use
the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously. Use firm pressure and a lot
of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application.
Once you have removed the road paint, wash off
the chemical with shampoo and a spot polish should bring back the original
shine. (Do not use on paint that is less than 90 days old) The same technique
can be used for old tar removal.
Car Brite Road Paint Remover -safely removes road paint, paint overspray,
tree sap, tar, bug residue, urethanes, adhesives and rubberized undercoating
from cured clear coat finishes.
Removing
Road Salt from Paintwork
Corrosion [: Water has a low
electrical conductivity, but this increases significantly with the dissolution
of a small amount of ionic material such as sodium chloride. Sodium chloride CI and
water H2O produce oxides, which cause corrosion]
ValuGard Decontamination System (B) alkaline neutralizer (pH 1.0) that is a blend of acids, which
deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline road salt / water solution
deposits, pH 9.0 used for freezing point depression in a sprayed brine solution
(often mixed with grit / sand for tyre adhesion) and safely dissolves salt
particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Apply to a clean
and freshly rinsed surface. Allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well
with detailer’s clay to remove contaminants.
All necessary safety
precautions should be taken whilst using this product. Protect paint surface
with a synthetic polymer sealant Collinite's Insulation Wax # 845 or Finish
Kare FK1000P (see also
Undercarriage Care and Road Salt)
Removing
Surface (dry) Dust
The best known brand
(California
Car Duster) it can be used to remove pollen or light dust without causing
scratches hold at the end of the 21-inch handle and applying very little surface pressure with
the duster, dusting with long strokes in one direction only, the dust is
collected by paraffin wax and held in the cotton fibres (the same way a micro
fibre cloth works (but without the paraffin wax) Shake the duster after each
pass to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the
surface while you’re using it.
It important to use
the duster only for the removal of dry surface dust, if the vehicle has oily
road film, road tar, damp pollen or dust, etc the vehicle surface should be
washed (or use Optimum No Rinse (ONR) rinse less wash)
Dust build-up-with
low humidity conditions friction on the paint surface will cause static
electricity (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Micro fibre)
resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface.
Rinsing the surface
with water or applying a quick detailer (QD) or use the CCD as stated above to
remove dust. When the duster is first purchased it should be wrapped in
newspaper (48 hours) to remove any excess paraffin wax, the duster should not
be washed, the dirtier it gets the better it works (I've been using mine now
for almost five years without it being washed)
http://www.calcarduster.com/faq.asp
Don't use
– on a wet surface (even condensation) as this will cause streaking, or soon
after driving; as a hot surface will also cause streaking
Alternative
product-Dust
build-up-with low humidity conditions and friction on the paint surface will
cause static electricity (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon)
Micro fibre) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface. Unlike most
other car dusters which are wax covered cotton fibres, the GP Wool Duster is an
all-wool Australian pelt. Rather than relying on surface tension to hold on to
dust, our wool duster simply uses static charges, created by twirling the
duster in your hands, to safely lift dust from the surface. Almost no surface
pressure is necessary to make it 100% effective. GP Australian Wool Duster
Rubber Tyre Marks
on Surface
Correction - Use a safe solvent to
remove burned on rubber; that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes
or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents; Autoglym Intensive
Tar Remover, Stoner™ Tarminator, or Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision
Cleaner that simply emulsifies and dissolves the rubber, then use a
plastic razor blade to remove debris.
If this does not
remove the rubber try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer,
which looks and feels like rubber. 3M Stripe
and Decal Remover
Radiation Damage
Ultra violet
Radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification of exposed paint
surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and
eventually destruction of the clear coat paint film by oxidation.
Ultra violet
protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV
protection layer (stabilizers) being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun,
sand, road or sea salt, and etc) it is also water miscible, so it is imperative
that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon
location climatic condition)
When radiation is
absorbed, it starts to break (cleave) weak chemical bonds, which leads to
photochemical degradation (bleaching, (fading), discoloration, chalking,
brittleness and cracking) all indications of UV deterioration. The paint top
surface loses its reflective ability and becomes ‘chalky’; this is a sign that
the structural integrity (mechanical strength) of the paints matrix has become
compromised.
The bond
cleavages resulting from UV absorption cause the formation of “radicals.” Each
free radical can trigger a chain of reactions (in the presence of air), leading
to more bond cleavages and destruction. These oxidising chain reactions require
no further UV exposure, just the presence of air
Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint
surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process,
which leads to bleaching (fading), discoloration, chalking, brittleness and
cracking - all indications of UV deterioration. Once a paint surface structural
integrity is compromised like this it usually means the paint requires
replacement (re-painting)
1.
UV radiation heat dries out the binder system causing structural
failure; it will dry the resin in paint; leading to oxidation. A paint surface
will often show cracking as the resin binder dries out the paint draws up on
itself forming ‘crow’s feet’. It will also dry out the oils and plasticizers in
vinyl and other materials and may lead to structural damage (this is especially
relevant to open top convertibles)
2.
UV radiation light exposure leads to gloss and colour instability
(photosynthesis or photo-oxidation) and surface fading stains. But before UV
light can cause harm, it must first be absorbed. If it is not turned into heat
or transferred to a nearby stabilizer molecule called a quencher, it breaks
weak chemical bonds. This is the beginning of UV damage. Oxidation really
amounts to a weakening of the resins that bind paint, which results in the
micro-pores becoming exposed and a larger area of paint becomes oxidized. The
paint top surface loses its reflective ability and becomes ‘chalky’; this is a
sign that the structural integrity (mechanical strength) of the paints matrix
has become compromised.
Some materials absorb
UV radiation more readily than other materials. Materials that readily absorb
(UV-B) radiation are quickly damaged...rubber, vinyl’s, gel coat fiberglass,
and many other plastics.
'Soft’ (refinished) paint
By lowering the OEM paint oven
temperature and cycle time of the clear coat reduces (VOC), which creates a
soft or sometimes sticky clear coat
This could also be due to not using the correct
reducers / hardeners for the temperature the paint is to be sprayed and cured
at, or the painter uses an incorrect mixture for a three part clear or there
are contaminants on the paint surface or
could be silicon contamination on the paint film or a strong solvent
'softening' or causing the paint to be sticky
Correction detailing - use a chemical paint cleaner (PrepSol or Hi-Temp Silicone
Remover) to remove silicone. Use very soft foam (LC Black finishing pad) and a
mildly aggressive polish as this type of ‘paint’ easily shows surface marring
etc
Soft or Sticky clear coat
Some paints (isocyanate free paint formula, a clear coat with low heat and
abrasion resistance, paint that has not
sufficiently outgased or has insufficient hardeners, hence ‘soft’) this type of
paint heats up very quickly causing the polish surface lubrication to dry out,
which causes an increase in surface resistance, the pad feels like its dragging
and can skip, as the polish abrasives stick to the paint
Correction - use a firm pad that has little surface resistance,
a LC Purple Foamed Wool and Menzerna PO 203S or PO 106 FF polish with very
light surface pressure. You could also
add more surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime) alternatively apply polish
with an orbital polisher #4-5.
Strikethrough
(Paint burn)
It should go without
saying that you need proper lighting available when you’re polishing. Always work in good lighting conditions,
and frequently check your work. Without
it you may polish through (breakthrough) paint surface or friction ‘burn’ the
paint by polishing in one area for too long.
Basically
when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed
the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually
concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘You will also be able to see a
non-glossy patch (base coat) where the clear has been removed with the edges of
the remaining clear coat being visible .
Areas of
risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges an seams and
the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance)
Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause
friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad. Clear coat
provides both ultra violet (UV) radiation and the paint systems protection.
Repair any breaches in the clear coat system otherwise you risk the paint
delaminating, which will then require repainting
Correction- replace the missing clear coat and
‘blend to match. Any areas
that have been subjected to strike-through need to have more base coat sprayed
to cover the problem, and then clear coat can be applied to provide UV
protection.
The problem is that
the new base will tend to lift the edge of the clear around the strike-through
spot so you need to seal the gap in the clear coat before you apply more base
coat. Seal the spot by using clear coat applied first and allow it to harden
sand using finishing paper and then apply more base coat and finally clear
coat.
It takes some
experience to blend the clear coat and a novice painter can cause additional
problems until gaining the experience needed to do it properly. Spot blending
clear coat is not something an inexperienced painter should attempt.
Solvent
Pop
[Blisters on the
paint surface caused by trapped solvents in the topcoats or primer-surfacer, a
situation which is further aggravated by force drying or uneven heating] DuPont
website
Solvent pop can also
be created if you heat the surface before the paint flashes a little. Don't put
the new paint into the sun or use heat lamps before it's dry.
Correction- If damage is extensive and severe; paint must be removed down to
undercoat or metal, depending on depth of blisters; then refinish. In less
severe cases, sand until smooth, resurface and refinish] DuPont website
Skunk
Chemically it’s an
organic chemical containing sulfhydryl (a mixture of sulfur-containing
chemicals such as methyl and butyl thiols traditionally called mercaptans),
which are not water soluble.
To eliminate them and
the odours they produce solubilise it (i.e. raise the pH from an acid to an
alkaline) with an alkaline wash solution at which point it will become soluble
and wash away.
Due to the chemical
composition of the skunk spray, most household remedies are ineffective, with
the exception of a peroxide formula or other remedies that break down the
thiols.
Scratch Shield Clear Coat
Some paints (isocyanate free paint formula, a clear coat with low heat and
abrasion resistance; this type of paint
heats up very quickly causing the polish surface lubrication to dry out, which
causes an increase in surface resistance, the pad feels like its dragging and
can skip, as the polish abrasives stick to the paint
Correction - use a firmer pad that has lees surface
resistance or an LC Purple Foamed Wool. Or try to add surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime) alternatively apply polish with an orbital polisher.
Transport
(Microcrystalline) Wax
P21S Total Auto Wash or 3M
Adhesive Remover both are safe solvents
that are very effective for the removal of transport wax, a temporary
protective transport Microcrystalline or co-polymer wax (See also
Cosmoline)
Urethane Wave
This is
something in addition to orange peel when layering thick clear coats for custom
paint jobs and show cars. Painters will spray 3-4 coats of clear, block it down
with 400-600 grit, and then spray a final flow coat. (See
also Orange Peel)
Correction - this would require block sanding to flatten urethane wave.
Tire Dressing
Overspray (Sling)
As you drive the tyres rotate and
the inertia can cause tyre dressing to ‘sling’. Tyre manufacturers use carbon
black to protect them against ultra violet radiation. Using a dimethyl solvent-based
dressing (usually a clear greasy liquid) emulsifies it, if this contaminated
dressing comes in contact with your paint and if it dries it will it will dye /
cause a stain; it’s especially noticeable on light coloured and can irreparably
stain the paint light colours and single stage paints.
Remedy- This can be caused by (a) applying the product to an
improperly cleaned surface, to which it cannot adhere too. The preparation of
the surface is the cause of this problem not the product (b) and / or an
excess of product, after the dressing has penetrated remove any excess.
Removal - use a
d-Limonene based (citrus) cleaner 3M Citrus Cleaner Adhesive Remover Spray or ValuGuard
"N" New Car Prep or paint cleaner P21S Paintwork Cleaner or, Klasse All-In-One, failing this
use an abrasive polish / pad.
Unfortunately, the only permanent
remedy is to remove the stained paint down to e-coat and re-paint
Water ‘Spots’
[A water spot is an area of dried mineral deposits left on a
surface after being allowed to air dry. Water quality, specifically the amount
and type of minerals in the local water supply as measured by the total
suspended solids or TSS test and other mineral levels such as sodium level, has
a big effect on how severe water spots can be
If the surface can be
rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing.
Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than
abrading the surface. If water spots are
not washed away using normal car wash they might be etched into the wax or
surface. The next step would be to use a paint cleansing lotion or the cleaner
wax indeed. Don’t use a pure carnauba product over the water spots as it has no
ability to remove them and will seal them in. You can move to machine polishing
as needed, but most the time newer water spots are removed with a chemical
paint cleaner type product or distilled white vinegar
With all
cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area
first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that
the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has
been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed
and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a
polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately
Water doesn’t leave
marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and
magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are
actually traces of minerals left on the surface. Alternatively they can be
caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird Ca2+
and Mg2+
excrement
or industrial fallout)
Generally surface
water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt,
they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed
from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly
abrasive chemical paint cleaner
There
are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)
1.
Stage I Corrosion
[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage
to the paint surface]
2.
Stage II Corrosion
[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on
the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an
etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain
has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]
Progressively
using the least abrasive product first-
1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual
Action Paint Cleaner or Duragloss
501)
2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral
water deposits try one or more of the following;
a) Use a
2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic
acid)
b) Try a
2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)
c) Or equal
parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
3. Clean the
effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual
Action Paint Cleaner
4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
5. Use a
machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC
White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface
6. For
Ceramiclear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for
machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish
Polish (106FA)
7. Use the
least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem
step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
8. Menzerna
Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is
formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit,
cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and
amplify the paint’s gloss. Use a primed Orange (mid range, high density foam
(60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action LC CCS foam pad 1200 RPM
9. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper
Due to the reactivity
of the calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) be cognizant that there are no products
that offer complete protection; however either of these products will offer
resistance to water marks, just remember; they are a sacrificial polymer waxes-
Finish
Kare FK 1000P Synthetic wax or Collinite 476S Super Doublecoat
Current Information
A little science
is useful to understand both the How and Why of detailing and to be of
real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal
of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of
materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro
diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples
of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical
technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the
techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be
up-dated and revised on a regular basis
Always be willing to learn;
because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. You
should never stop learning, and your quest for information should be part of
your everyday process. It
is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a
reliable information sources. I would
like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.
I detailed my first vehicle
at the age of fourteen (1958) forty plus years later I started to write
detailing articles to share my experiences. For about fifteen years or so I
started to contribute to various detailing forums answering questions posted by
neophyte’s, enthusiasts and professionals alike.
My mantra has always been Experience
Unshared Knowledge Wasted.
I purchase all the products
I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and commercially unbiased, the
product recommendation is based on "Does exactly what it says on the tin"
and it suits my detailing goals. The products mentioned have been personally
subjected to extensive laboratory (using state of the art instruments and
methodologies in some of the world's most prestigious labs) as well as field
testing, and using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the
same as those recommended by the manufacturer.
It has been my experience that
they will perform the task more than adequately, hence the personal
recommendation, as this testing is carried out without sponsorship I have no
intention of publishing any test results. Using the methodology and tools cited,
which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.
I hope
these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of
technical development as well as my experience with the products.
By
having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along
with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react,
you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
As always if you have
questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is
the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are
always appreciated
Copyright © 2002 - 2015 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all
rights reserved
