TOGWT: Carnauba (Brasilia) Wax: Part II

Victoria Concourse Wax

Dew Point

[: dew point is associated with relative humidity (RH). A high relative humidity indicates that the dew point is closer to the current air temperature. Relative humidity of 100% indicates the dew point is equal to the current temperature and the air is maximally saturated with water. When the dew point remains constant and temperature increases, relative humidity will decrease]

The dew point temperature is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold all of its water vapour, and some of the water vapour must condense into liquid. At 100% relative humidity, the dew point temperature and real temperature are the same, and clouds or fog can begin to form.

While relative humidity is a relative measure of how humid it is, the dew point temperature is an absolute measure of how much water vapour is in the air. In very warm, humid conditions, the dew point temperature can reach 75 to 77 degrees F, but rarely exceeds 80 degrees.

Dark patches, Haze or Streaking

These surface problems are often caused by the differing product evaporation rates. A liquid wax usually contains more volatile solvents that evaporate out when the wax is applied. The excess wax, left over lubricants, excess bonding agents, solvent residues and whatever else is left forms the "haze".

To remove, take a clean, soft 100% micro fibre towel, soak in cold distilled water and wring out so that it’s still wet (not dripping wet and then slowly wipe the paint surface. This has the effect of removing any oils, wax or polymer residue by allowing them to evaporate along with the moisture from the towel, so give this time to work by wiping very slowly, otherwise there is a chance that they will be re-deposited. Repeat as necessary

How Temperature and Humidity Affects Product Application

Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 - 80.F (10.C - 26.C) the carrier system for waxes is solvents, while polishes (and waxes) use oils for surface lubrication. At lower temperatures they tend to solidify and at higher surface temperatures they evaporate allowing products to dry out and you risk ‘dry buffing’.

Humidity and dew point saturation temperature (the temperature which water vapour will condense into water) will also affect the application of waxes and sealants. Micro particles of moisture will form on the horizontal panels and due to the oil content in waxes it will inhibit the adhesion process, water will interfere with the cross-linking of a polymer sealant

Excess humidity will also affect ‘how’ a wax or sealant dries (i.e. it may cause hazing or clouding of the surface) and will also prolong product drying and curing times

The other climate related condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it ineffective.

These are the temperatures and conditions that are relative to the application of car care products; the most important is the actual surface temperature of the vehicle.

· Surface Temperature - (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.^oC) and 80.^oF (26.^oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45. °F to 90.° F (4.5-32.^oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.^oC) range.

· Dew point – or saturation temperature; this is the temperature to which a given parcel of humid air must be cooled, at constant barometric pressure, for water vapour to condense into water. A high relative humidity indicates that the dew point is closer to the current air temperature. Relative humidity of 100% indicates the dew point is equal to the current temperature and the air is maximally saturated with water. As the temperature approaches 100% humidity it will have a negative effect on the way products cross-link (coatings, polymers, etc.) and detailing products dry (wax, dressings, etc.)

· Cross-linking times- approximate cross-link period at various temperatures; at 60.^oF - 48hours, 70.^oF-36 hours, 80.^oF - 24 hours (cross-linking is a function of temperature, humidity and time)

· Humidity and dew point - saturation temperature (the temperature which water vapour will condense into water) will also affect the application of waxes and sealants. Micro particles of moisture will form on the horizontal panels and due to the oil content in waxes it will inhibit the adhesion process, water will interfere with the cross-linking of a polymer sealant

· Hot ambient temperatures- most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used. The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches

Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail. The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)

· Cold ambient temperatures - (>40.°F) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc.) will be negatively affected at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax or oils as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and become unworkable. Product drying and cross-linking times will also be negatively affected by colder temperatures

The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to; so surface preparation is of paramount importance. More wax or sealant does not equate to better or longer protection. It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used (1.5 – 2.0 oz. should be sufficient for most vehicles) ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used.

Once you’ve applied a very thin layer you should be able to see the lighting s reflection. It should look translucent, like Vaseline®. You can tell where the product has been applied; as you wipe the surface with a clean micro fibre towel you will feel resistance

Pre-wax Cleaner

Most waxes and sealants are formulated to be detergent proof so using washing up liquid (Dawn) may or may not remove them.

The following products will strip wax / sealants;

· Detailing clay (90 %+)

· Chemical paint cleaner

· Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

· Solvents

· An abrasive polish or compound

For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or corrective surface polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One)

They contains a mix of micro abrasives and cleaning agents that remove oxidisation and ingrained dirt to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will enable an efficient bonding with the paint surface and also ensure product durability. The paint cleaner’s suggested above can sometimes be used instead of detailers clay if the ‘bag test’ doesn’t reveal contaminates but the surface looks ‘soiled’ use a chemical surface cleaner (especially on light coloured paint)

A chemical-based paint cleaner will remove any dead, oxidized paint, pollution damage, light oxidization, accumulated road film, light tar and acid rain or water spot deposits.

Apply cleaner with a foam applicator pad, about a quarter-size drop and apply to your paintwork in a side to side motion, NOT a circular motion. Stick to one or two panels at a time. Then use a good terry towel to remove, as this gives a little abrasion to the cleaner

Wax Application

Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturer’s instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient; this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity. Remove with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (polyester/polyamide Microfiber removes too much wax) and a fine mist spray bottle filled with ice cold distilled water (Swiss Wax or Groit’s Garage - 100% Cotton Buffing Cloths

A wax when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own, it is necessary to add specialized miscible oils and polymers to allow the waxy material to spread and adhere evenly to the surface. A sealant or a wax should be applied in a thin uniform coating. A wax doesn’t form a molecular bond, nor does it cur, it sets-up and forma sub-micron ‘shell’ type coat.

No matter how thick you apply any wax, only so much of it can adhere to the surface and form a ‘shell’. There is only a finite amount of product required to form a thin uniform layer on a substrate; using too much just wastes product, lengthens the drying process, and makes removal more difficult.

A second application is always a good idea as it ensures complete surface cover. As another layer is added surface friction, pressure and the solvent used as a carrier system remove a percentage of the preceding layer.

It may be possible to increase the applied product thickness but there comes a time when you are removing more than you are adding. There is a method used (spit shining) in which you neutralize the solvents and its then possible to ‘layer’ waxes, due to their chemical composition there are very few sealants that can be successfully layered.

Park the newly waxed vehicle in the sun (or heated garage) and wait three to four hours, to ensure all the solvent outgases (evaporate) and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine, you’ll notice both the chroma (intensity level or richness of a colour) and a deepening of the shine, then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the gloss.

Machine Application - the advantage of using a random orbital machine to apply these products is that it spreads a thin and even coating and requires much less effort than hand application; the downside is that it uses slightly more product.

Methodology- use a slightly damp, Black Lake County (or equivalent) 75 PPI foam pad at medium / low speed

Removing that thin layer once it's dry should be almost effortless. A quick wipe with a clean, dry microfiber towel is all it takes.

Zaino Custom Polish Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator, approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.

Application methodology - fold the micro fibre towel into four quarters when using it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all visible contamination is removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost everything with just the towel and hot water. They eliminate the need to carry around different cleaners for different uses. These cloths are a great environmentally friendly healthy alternative to cleaning with chemicals.

What is equally important with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges.

Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section.

With it folded properly you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry (See Micro Fibre Washing / Care)

Post Wax/ Sealant Inspection

To ensure nothing has been missed inspect the vehicle panel by panel

· Apply two thin coatings to ensure coverage

· Use two towels to wipe downs

· Inspect the panels by looking down the sides from front to back and vice versa

· Look across horizontal surfaces by viewing from panel height

Washing - After using foam pads place in some water with P21S Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean or a microfiber detergent; this keeps your pads moist and begins the cleaning process while you finish detailing; pads can be rotated by soaking and squeezing out reside. Never allow a used application pad to air dry before it is washed

Zaino Custom Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator, approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent scratching of paint surfaces.

The 100% virgin cotton material features the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft. After use, hand wash applicator

Washing - After using foam pads place in some water with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean; this keeps your pads moist and begins the cleaning process while you finish detailing; pads can be rotated by soaking and squeezing out reside. Never allow a used application pad to air dry before it is washed.

Hydrophobic Beading

Most waxes will bead until enough surface tension is created, and then it will sheet as the volume of water increases.

Hydrophobic beading on a paint surface is aesthetically pleasant, and many people equate beading with protection; there is a long standing myth “that as long as a paint surface maintains beading it’s being protected from the elements” (much like the myth that “the more soap produces suds the better the cleaning effect”) There are many things that will affect the ‘shape’ of a water bead on a surface; since gravity, surface tension and the surface energy of the coating all play a part.

To test your wax / sealant you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially applying your polish/wax.

This is your starting point. This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity, duration and changes) for that specific product.

As the water beads start to diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and its film protection factor is going away, Once the water beading is the same as before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone

Dust and road grime will have a very negative effect on surface beading than any other factor. The effect of this is often misconstrued as wax failure when this isn't the case.

Organic wax

Carnauba in its natural state is un-usable as a car wax, it is sold as a hard solid block (or flakes) so the oils /solvent / beeswax or polymers that are formulated with it play a large role in the usability and performance of the wax.

Many people mistakenly assume the term ‘pure wax’ means that the wax contains nothing but Carnauba wax or Beeswax, this is not so as all waxes are blends of different substances.

Wax when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own, solvents and miscible oils that form its carrier system are added to enable it to spread evenly, it then sets-up (the solvents outgas and the wax hardens to create a protective 'shell') a wax does not form a molecular bond, only polymers do. Natural waxes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that the polymers work their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the paint film surface thereby creating a mechanical anchor.

Wax can be thought of as semi-solid until the solvent carrier components outgas (evaporate) these wax molecules form an egg-grate type mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth.

Due to this shape the reflected light becomes somewhat distorted, this produces jetting sometimes described as jetting (the so-called wet-look) It is a property that creates a super-rich shine with incredible depth and the illusion of wetness on the surface, the better the quality and volume of refined wax the more pronounced the effect of jetting.

Carnauba wax is inherently hydroscopic when exposed to water; wax swells and closes its pores, which along with surface tension, causes `water beading'. Carnauba wax provides better protection from bird / insect excrement than a polymer. (See also Wax, Durability, and Melting Point)

Things to look for

• Clarity

• Gloss

• Ease of use (application and removal)

• Durability

Ultra Violet Protection

[: organically modified silica or organically modified silicate, used in a matrix material for UV-protection coating]

Ultra violet radiation stabilizers are a group of chemical agents with the ability to counteract or neutralize the harmful effects of radiation. Competitive absorbers provide protection by converting UV light to heat so it can dissipate harmlessly. Other UV stabilizers work differently, but all UV stabilizers are consumed as they do their job. In a way, they serve as sacrificial molecules, taking the abuse from radiation instead of the material they are protecting.

Ultra violet stabilizer - providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UV) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) ultra violet heat (IR) infrared radiation can also affect the structural integrity of materials by drying out and therefore removing their elasticity and causing cracks.

Be cognizant that Carnauba wax or polymers do not contain a natural ultra violet radiation protection, they both oxidize as a way of providing a sacrificial protection against ultra violet radiation, neither of these elements contains UV stabilizers (protection) they must be added. This renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (4 Mils) thick

Clear coat paint (polyurethane) provides the colour and base coats with protection, and usually has UV protection added in the final coating; this tends to migrate towards the upper level of the clear coat (this is why it’s important to check how much of the paint surface you are removing with an abrasive polish).

Best wax or Sealant

Is there a best? In my opinion- No! The answer to this question is not as easy as one would assume. The aesthetics of a vehicle appearance is very subjective to say the least. The question that should really be asked is “What is the best wax for my needs and detailing goals? The only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you and meets the criteria you set for it.

While it’s true many of the chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at least very similar) having used a variety of different products, at various cost levels,

I can tell one from another and field testing shows that not all have the durability either, some simply outperform others in many categories and react differently when applied to different paint types, paint hardness, colour, or varied paint surface conditions.

Often what is considered by some to be ‘the best wax or sealant’ is either due to brand loyalty and / or an emotive response. Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one that best meets its user's objectives. If a product is not working for you experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs.

Some products will maximise metallic flake, others reflectivity, or depth of shine and colour richness (wetting, also known as jetting). Factors such as durability are objective and are an easily quantifiable part in the process.

There is no one product that can produce all of the properties for an optically perfect shine, however; for high surface gloss and surface reflectance-a polymer sealant, which also provides durability. Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering as well as strong cosmetic enhancement characteristics

a) For depth of shine - Carnauba wax (also provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants (Swissvax, Zymöl, and Pinnacle Souverän especially on Red, Black and Yellow paint

b) For clarity - long term durability and protection apply a polymer sealant (Zaino Z2PRO™ + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive) to a carefully prepared level, clean paint surface.

c) Optically perfect shine – apply an optically clear polymer sealant and add a Carnauba wax, a Glaze or Zaino Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal as a last step product (LSP).

d) High heat conditions - a polymer sealant, one that includes a UVR protection (Zaino) and a sacrificial wax (Collinite (actually a polymer/wax) Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845) or G Techniq Crystal Lacquer 3S nanotech

e) Harsh winter – Klasse All in One (AIO) Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG) x 2, Collinite # 845 Liquid Insulator Wax or # 476s Super Doublecoat Auto Wax x 2. If you apply a final layer of wax without buffing it will provide more protection / durability (especially for vehicle storage purposes). Collinite Marque d’ Elegance (915) Wax for darker colours)

The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to. It really is all dependants upon, process over product; 85% surface preparation, 5% product suitability, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. The other variables are; a detailer’s knowledge of the paint type, experience with a given product and skill level and experience with machine polisher.

g) My personal favourite organic waxes (in no particular order) - Swissvax Concorso / Best of Show, Zymöl Vintage Estate Glaze, Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Carnauba Wax, P21S® (R222®) Carnauba Wax and Victoria Concours Red Wax

h) Use a polymer for durability – use an organic wax for depth of shine- best of both worlds, a polymer sealant with a Carnauba wax LSP

An organic wax also provides a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic rain, etc.) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint, whereas an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks durability)

Special Waxes (Marque specific)
An organic wax, unlike a polymer, has no chemical interaction with paint; it forms a thin hard ‘shell’ as opposed to a polymer, which forms a molecular bond. A wax when it’s correctly applied as a thin translucent layer, this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ which is a barely visible film.

The base coat or colour coat is applied and a clear coat is added to provide depth and protection. Regardless of its original colour of the wax, any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be transparent otherwise the paint colour will be muted, if you can see the colour of a wax on the paint surface it’s applied too thickly

Claims that certain waxes are formulated and / or manufactured for specific paint types, paint colours or made specifically for a certain vehicle marquee or that they are matched to particular characteristics of individual paint systems has absolutely no factual chemical basis, I think it is merely marketing hype.

For example, both Porsche and Ferrari (amongst others) use Glasurit as their paint supplier, very different vehicle manufacturers. How would a wax especially made for Italian paint (Zymöl Ital) not work on a German Porsche?

The clear coat is the final original equipment manufacturers coating applied to a vehicle to protect the (base) colour coat from environmental damage, while providing both depth and a durable, glossy appearance, originally designed to protect and enhance metallic paints, but is now applied to all colours. Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be transparent otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted.

An applied wax protection is less than 0.1 µ; so the suggestion that a coating this thin could change or even enhance a colour doesn’t sound very plausible to me. Although waxes and polymers do have differing light reflectance properties and differing paint colours will reflect light differently according to their Light Reflective Value (LRV) (See Light Reflection article)

I will concede that some waxes look better when used on light or dark coloured paints. A wax that is formulated with high oil content produces jetting or ripple effect (the so-called ‘wet-look) by diffuse reflection and seems to enhance dark colours, whereas higher polymer content will enhance light colours due to spatial reflection, similar to water on a mirrored surface

Silicone (Siloxane)

Are polymers that include silicon together with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and sometimes other chemical elements, which provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier system in polishes and waxes that makes them easier to apply and remove

When used in paints and other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even product distribution. It not silicone that you need worry about, just the 'type' (what it’s formulated with) you need to be aware of. Silicone oils provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier system in polishes and waxes that makes them easier to apply and remove

When used in paints and other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even product distribution. Silicones are primarily used to modify or improve certain characteristics; they are sometimes added as a lubricant to provide spread ability thereby making a product easier to apply. The automotive industry uses silicones as component parts (see polymerisation) in its plastic, vinyl, rubber, paints, and fibreglass as well as in polishes and waxes.

· Apply product in ‘direction of airflow’ to vertical surfaces roof to floor and then left to right, on horizontal surfaces bumper to trunk and then left to right, over-lapping panels to ensure complete coverage. Then apply in direction of airflow, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction and the reflectivity of the body lines and contours of the vehicle.

· Paint cleaning - for a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will ensure durability

· Conduct a ‘swipe test’ and then remove excess product; be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed from rain and water (this includes QD sprays as they comprise approx. 90% water) for 12-24 hours to enable cross-linking or the surface protection may be compromised.

Colour, Depth and Clarity

Are the three factors Concours d'Elegance judges look for when scrutinizing paint film surfaces. So much depends on proper surface preparation, a clean and level surface, and product clarity, which allow the natural properties of the paint to show through, as without transparency the true colours of the paint surface cannot be seen. Waxing a surface that has not been properly cleaned will only result in a shiny layer over dull, dirty paint - not the deep smooth, optically perfect crystalline shine that is obtainable

Shine

A perfectly ‘flat’ levelled surface is obtained by polishing the paint surface. Shine an easily understood concept of light reflection / refraction (in simple terms the light reflectance from a mirror) I wanted to expand that concept so that the shine would be optically perfect as well as multi-dimensional. The bright shine of a polymer sealant is often criticized as being “sterile” (a flat silvery-white reflection) good reflective properties but without ‘depth’.

Clear coat

Is applied over the colour coat to provide, protection, and gloss and to allow its colour to be seen; waxing over a paint surface that hasn’t been properly cleaned will only result in a shiny layer over dull, dirty paint - not the deep smooth, optically perfect crystalline shine that is obtainable. Without clarity the true colour of the paint cannot be seen, only a muted version of its colour.

The fact that Carnauba wax isn’t optically clear is an advantage on some solid colours as it artificially deepens or darkens the colour. There is an issue with metallic as many Carnauba waxes tend to mute metallic flakes.

Gloss

The lustre or shininess of paints and coatings; different types of gloss are frequently arbitrarily differentiated, such as sheen, distinctness-of-image gloss, etc.

The oils that are formulated in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the surface) this distorts the light reflectance, giving the surface the ‘look’ of depth or liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting a three-dimensional deep, rich colour, providing strong cosmetic enhancement characteristics. There are specialized instruments to test, measure and determine the amount of gloss created by polishes and waxes. But a machine can only give an indicative result; it can’t fully measure all of the (perceived) visual dimensions produced by car care products on automotive finishes (some of which are emotional as opposed to logical responses).

Depth

Iridescence occurs due to the internal reflection of light within a transparent film or layer of material, where the thickness of the film or layer is of the order of the wavelength of the incident light.

Where the wavelength of the light matches or is a low multiple of the path length through the layer it will re-emerge from the layer after a single reflection but where the wavelength is different to the path length it will be re-reflected within the layer until it emerges after several internal reflections. Changing your viewpoint changes the path length through the layer and this means that a different wavelength or colour of light will seem to be reflected.

Jetting

Sometimes called optical depth comes from an applied product that is two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a high and low source, the light waves are distorted (diffuse reflection) which creates a three dimensional illusion of depth to produce jetting (a rippling effect, the so-called ‘wet-look)

The oils that are formulated in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, this distorts the light reflectance, giving the surface the ‘look’ of liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting a three-dimensional deep colour, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin wax, and some synthetic waxes tend to occlude the surface

Gloss Meter

The Rhopoint IQ is a precision instrument that measures gloss using the following parameters in a single button push: 20/60/85° Gloss, Haze, Reflected Image Quality (RIQ), Distinctness of Image (DOI)

Gloss is a measurement proportional to the amount of light reflected from a surface measured at 20° (high gloss finishes) 60° (mid gloss finishes) and 85° (matt finishes) Haze: Reflection haze is scattered light caused by micro texture and is measured adjacent to the main gloss component. The gloss value is determined by directing a light, which has a similar wavelength to the human eye, at a specific angle to the test surface and measuring the amount of specular reflection.

The optics is set in an aluminium block giving optical bench accuracy and stability. To ensure international standard compliance, the light source is supplied from long-life tungsten halogen lamps. Place the gloss meter on the surface to be measured, press the required angle button and the gloss reading will appear on the display. This reading will be held until another reading is taken.

Trade practice recognizes the following gloss levels, in increasing order of gloss: flat (or matte) practically free from sheen, even when viewed from oblique angles (usually less than 15 on 60-degree meter); eggshell- usually 20-35 on 60-degree meter; semi-gloss-usually 35-70 on 60-degree meter; full-gloss-smooth and almost mirror-like surface when viewed from all angles, usually above 70 on 60-degree meter.

The instrument will automatically switch off when not in use. Easy to read two-line alphanumeric display with back-lighting, powered by internal rechargeable batteries, battery voltage can be checked on the display.

Rhopoint IQ (Gonio photometer) 20°/60°/85°- http://www.rhopointinstruments.com/product/rhopoint-iq-goniophotometer-20-60-85/

Notes:

1. It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used

2. Polymer sealants require that you apply a very thin coating; this is best accomplished with a soft foam pad and a random orbital polisher

3. If you apply a product over a surface that is dirty or one that has surface imperfections a wax or sealant will not disguise it, only highlight them (providing the applied product is optically clear).

Dark Field Micro Inspection:

Since concourse cars are judged solely on the way light reflects from their surfaces this is what really determines the appearance of a car, so you should inspect it under all possible lighting conditions.

For a surface to be optically near ‘perfect’ it should be free of all surface imperfections. The surface should be viewed very closely and from all possible angles.

Start by looking at the surface in a darkened room, once your eyes have fully diluted, turn on a bright Halogen light beam. Direct the beam away from you and at a low angle and from various directions (you’ll be able to see even the most minor paint film surface imperfection) this is 100X more sensitive than viewing a vehicles paint film surface in normal light.

This viewing technique is an adaptation of “Dark field microscopy” used in many scientific fields. Direct or cloudy sunlight, shaded, low-angled, directly overhead or light reflected from other surfaces, or the type of artificial light the surface is viewed under can all influence what surface imperfections can or cannot be seen (See also 3M Sun Gun ®)

Wax and Glaze ‘Set-up’

Carnauba in today's wax formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your car's surface. When applied to a surface will not adhere properly due to its low surface tension, solvents and miscible oils are added to enable it to spread evenly to the surface. Natural and synthetic wax and glazes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) and the polymers into the microscopic gaps and a valley of the paint film surface.

Or in the case of a wax over a polymer sealant- the polymers form a bond, thereby creating a mechanical anchor, a wax doesn’t form a true covalent (molecular) bond to the surface, this is due to its limited polymer content, but forms a hard shell over the surface; the process involves the solvents outgas (evaporating), the wax hardening/setting and the small % of polymers forming a bond with another polymer (urethane paint or a sealant). This process is time, temperature and humidity dependent; after sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your finger, if no smearing or drag is evident; the residue is ready to be removed.

Suggested application method - wipe on, do a swipe test, wipe off

Polymer / Wax Bonding

Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.

Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability maybe affected. (See also Cross-linking and Adherence)

Inorganic / synthetic wax is usually formulated with polymers that have high surface tension and form a strong molecular bond with the paint surface or the polymers, the wax will migrate to form a top layer.

Organic waxes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the paint film surface thereby creating a mechanical anchor. An organic wax, unlike a polymer, has no chemical interaction (molecular bonding) with paint.

Using a micro fibre towel

Fold the towel into four quarters when using towels; it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all visible contamination is removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost everything with just the towel and hot water. They eliminate the need to carry around different cleaners for different uses. These cloths are a great environmentally friendly healthy alternative to cleaning with chemicals.

Product Directional Application

Abrasive Polish

These products contain abrasives and should be applied in straight-line motions (Forget what Mr. Miyagi was teaching the Karate Kid) circular motions will cause circular directional marks (swirl marks) When an abrasive is applied by hand the pressure applied is uneven and the reflected light highlights the paint films surface peaks and valleys differently.

Sealant, Glaze or Wax

Are all non-abrasive so direction of application won’t cause directional marks to the surface; if you find micro-marring on your paint surface the problem is more likely to be either insufficient surface preparation or dirt / grit debris on your applicator

If there is grit on the paint surface or on the applicator a circular swirl or scratch is much easier to see (catches light more often) than one small straight scratch; that’s why I often recommend straight application.

An Optically perfect shine

Comes from a clean, prepared and level surface; it improves the desired optical properties i.e. surface reflectance. The other requirements are surface gloss, depth of shine and applied product transparency (clarity), which allows all of the components of an optically perfect shine to be visible.

Paint Preparation (before applying a wax) for a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner, or what used to be called ‘pre-wax cleaners’ (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the subsurface is free of any grease or other residue, this will ensure surface adhesion and enhance durability

• The best light reflection is obtained from a perfectly flat highly reflective surface, i.e. glass over a silver metallic material –a mirror

• A polish would need to level a paint surface; this will provide a surface without distortion

• To provide protection to our theoretically perfectly distortion-free surface we would need to apply a wax or a polymer sealant, which in turn would need to be optically clear

An optically perfect crystalline shine is the result of combining a polymer sealant for its reflective shine properties with a Carnaubas three-dimensional jetting properties.

The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all comes down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the balance is pure emotion

In obtaining the ‘optically perfect shine’ we should be equally concerned with ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering. Products should be chosen that would carefully balance each of these considerations without focusing on one specific characteristic. A surface protection with a spectacular shine but limited durability just doesn’t make sense.

a) Requirements:

• Clean-washed to remove oxidation, surface dirt and grime, tar and road film

• Reflectivity – that comes from a clean and level surface

• Gloss-that comes from oils and polymers with their ability to reflect light with a minimum of light diffusion to produce surface shine

• Optical depth-comes from an applied product that is two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a high and low source, (i.e. a Carnauba waxes ‘egg-grate’ type structure) as opposed to a polymer elongated and flat ‘chain-link’ type mesh, which ‘distorts’ reflected light to produce a rippling effect (warmth)

• Optimising light refraction -apply product in ‘direction of airflow’, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle

• Transparency-or clarity of the applied product, which will enable all the above components to be clearly visible

b) Contributing factors:

• Cleaned- using a mildly alkaline (pH 7.5) car wash concentrates to remove surface road dirt and grime and then- using detailer’s clay to remove ingrained pollution from the paint surface, and a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) to prepare the surface for a polymer sealant and a Carnauba wax.

• Polished-removal of minor blemishes, surface scratches, swirl marks and water marks with an abrasive machine polish or compound (Menzerna) to provide a level surface.

A machine polish should remove surface imperfections and swirl marks, contain oils for lubrication and should not leave residue that requires extensive ‘clean-up’ to remove hazing, its solvents should evaporate moderately quickly without leaving excess wax/oils behind, and lastly should buff relatively easily.

• Glazed- to obtain a high gloss by providing the necessary oils and burnishing the paint surface to a high optically clear gloss

• Protected- the polymers carrier system (solvents) allows the product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce an ultra-flat surface while proving durable surface protection. A polymer (Zanio Z2PRO™) with its levels of shine, gloss, clarity, reflectivity, depth and 99% optical clarity, which doesn’t distort or detract from the paints colour or lines of the vehicle.

• Waxed-the applications of Carnauba (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax) that will provide oils to provide a ‘wet-look’ to the surface and will also provide a transparent surface when layered without yellowing or discoloration, with a depth of shine by providing a two-dimensional surface.

• Light coloured paint -i.e. Silver, White, etc. (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light colours tends to reflect light instead of absorbing it and providing a 2-dimentional look.

• You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned, polished and a polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeff Werkstatt - Acrylic Jett) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but without ‘depth’ the exception is Zaino Clear Seal, Z-CS).

• By adding a Carnauba wax or a Glaze as an LSP (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or Danase Wet Glaze) the oils and / or polymers that are formulated in the Carnauba waxes provide a reflective gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the surface) For optimal results the surface of a light coloured paint to show gloss is very much dependent upon good / excellent paint condition, adequately prepped to remove contaminants and minor imperfections. Detailer’s clay (Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay Bar) and / or Paint cleaner (Zaino PC or Klasse AIO) should be a regular part of the preparation process.

• The perfect 100% cotton buffing towels, the more you wash them, the softer they become, to guarantee a perfect buffing result. Wash before use. Swisswax 100% cotton towel

Zymöl

[:'enZYMatic emOLient']

Zymöl also put a special enzyme in their waxes to assure that the carnauba does not "bond" in the container. Only when exposed to fresh air then it becomes a "wax" and then starts bonding to your car's paint surface.

Carnauba acts in a unique way by swelling and closing its pores when exposed to water. It will also dramatically reduce paint oxidation by diffusing the UV and infrared radiation from the sun, which would normally dull a car's paint finish over time.

After many years of Concours d’élégance vehicle preparation I came to realize that there was more to shine than just light reflection. Some colours, black, red, dark blue, deep yellow for example, look better with this deeper, darker, jetting (wet-like) shine. I owned a dark blue Mercedes Benz and wanted colour, depth and clarity from a wax. So I purchased Zymöl Vintage Glaze ™ wax. Zymöl Destiny also gave the paint a great deep gloss; I didn’t want a bright shine but rather a deeper, darker shine. My car's paint rippled like it was a mirror submerged in water. I would have to say that Zymöl Vintage Glaze™ is the most optically clear Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; it’s got to be seen to be believed

Zymöl Waxes	Weight	% Carnauba by Volume	% Yellow Carnauba	% White Carnauba

Creame & Carbon	226g	33%	100%
Titanium	226g	51%	80%	20%
Concours	226g	47%	10%	90%
Destiny	226g	51%		100%
Atlantique	226g	60%		100%
Vintage	523g	61%		100%
Royale	1412g	70%		100%

Percentage of wax content

Carnauba wax is considered to be the world’s purest, hardest and most transparent natural wax repellent derived from the Brazilian palm Copernia Cerefera

Marketing propagates the myth that increasing the Carnauba content of a wax will make the wax "better". This is marginally true at best. Increasing the Carnauba content up to a point (30 to 37%), will increase the waxes durability but will not affect the shine. If the Carnauba content is too high (40% or more), the result is a rock-hard, wax brick.

You simply would not be able to apply it to a vehicle! Be wary of manufacturers that claim high (40 %+) wax contents. They are either lying or they include softer, cheaper waxes (beeswax, Môntan wax, Palm wax or paraffin wax) in their formula.

When making a comparison ensure you compare like with like (i.e. % volume or % weight) as some Carnauba percentages refer to % of Carnauba as a proportion of wax content only (i.e. 70% carnauba, 30% beeswax). Wax in itself will not produce a gloss or shine; wax is a dull substance that provides protection, and will not produce gloss without the addition of an additive (oils, silicones, etc.) which will produce a reflective gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet-look) or depth.

Carnauba weighs twice as much as solvent. For example, a 50% or more carnauba content by volume is actually slightly more than 30% by weight. Most carnaubas advertised with 50% or "more" in carnauba content are truly advertising a weight, not a volume.

A Carnauba wax needs to have clarity to enable the base coat colour to be seen. Most wax products use an unrefined yellow wax (plus emulsifiers, fillers (Diatomaceous earth) and solvents)

As far as percentage of wax the lower percentage will ensure surface clarity and as the yellow Carnauba percentage increases surface clarity will depreciate. Most yellow wax products contain 15-20 % Carnauba wax by weight

Since Carnauba wax exhibits the qualities that Concours d’élégance vehicle preparation detailers and judges look; Colour, Depth and Clarity, when scrutinizing paint film surfaces. So much depends on proper surface preparation, a clean and level surface, and product clarity, which allow the natural properties of the paint to show through, as without transparency the true colours of the paint surface cannot be seen.

Carnauba wax gives a rich, deep, wet looking shine, as well as a higher content % to give off more added surface protection for the solution to a higher wax content is to ensure clarity with a refined ivory Carnauba (the so-called ‘# 1 white’) which varies from a very pale yellow (so called ‘white’), through a greenish brown (yellow) higher quality emulsifier and solvent are also needed, with less fillers as these will lessen clarity.

Only a small portion of your vehicle's shine comes from the wax itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with only minimal light reflection. Maximum shine comes from a clean, prepared and level surface; it improves the desired optical properties i.e. surface reflectance quoting Carnauba wax content percentage is irrelevant because it really isn't important

1. . Zymöl - Royale Glaze contains 70% Brazilian No.1 White Carnauba by volume.

2. Swissvax - Divine™ containing over 60% by volume of ultra-pure Brazilian white carnauba

3. Swissvax Crystal Rock - 76% by wax volume of pure Brazilian ivory carnauba wax

This level of product should only be used if proper car care techniques are maintained and the owner, of the vehicle, has a genuine interest to detailing to perfection. Anything less would be an exhausting waste of a person’s time and money with the end result being a disheartening failure.

Would you spend $30,000 on car wax?

How much do you typically pay for a jar of car wax, 50 or $100? How does $30,000 sound? No, that's not a typo, but it is what automotive wax producer Zymöl is charging for its Solaris Glaze car wax. It comes in a pyramid-shaped solar-activated container, I’m not entirely sure if its purpose, although it looks good and maybe that’s it. Only 25 containers of Solaris Glaze will be produced and each includes a gold mixing spoon and is refillable for life. Even at this price it very quickly sold out, which speaks volumes for the marketing of a product

With organic waxes you reach a certain price point, usually over $200, when you are not just paying for the basic ingredients anymore. Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.

Bringing a new product to market can cost upwards of $45,000. The set price point of a high dollar wax has to recuperate:

- R&D costs, the so called speciality waxes or a glaze usually sells in small numbers

- Product packaging, usually eye catching and expensive

- Marketing cost are high as the product needs to appeal to an exclusive market segment

- Vendor mark-up, due to low volume sales this is usually much higher than for other products

- A higher than average price tends to add to the elitist or exclusivity factor

- Carnauba % content is a very inaccurate method to assess overall performance or value

Then there is the luxury effect and products uniqueness. Mr Royce said this about the price charged for RR automobiles [The price charged is whatever the market will stand]

There are of course some less expensive (a somewhat relevant term as used in this context) Zymöl - Royale $13000, Zymöl Vintage Glaze is the most optically clear Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; it’s got to be seen to be believed $3500, Zymöl Atlantique Glaze $1800, Swissvax- Crystal Rock $1265, Swissvax Divine $3325, Swissvax Concorso $280

On the morning after, it's time to take leave of our hearts, return to our heads and take another look. In the final analysis; a wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity.

There are a few waxes that will supply the same overall look (although this is very subjective) P21S Carnauba Wax and Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Paste Wax; these are probably the best waxes out there that are way beyond their price bracket in terms of aesthetics.

I would have to say that of all the waxes I’ve tried Zymöl Vintage Glaze is the most optically clear (exhibits Colour, Depth and Clarity) Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; its aesthetics have got to be seen first to be believed.

Hazing (Wax / Polymer Sealant)

Smearing or a dull look to the paint film surface after removing residue usually occurs when there is an excess of product applied in high humidity conditions and moisture is trapped between the fast drying top layer and the lower layer of the hydroscopic wax.

The paint films surface temperature being cooler than the outside air accelerates this process by allowing the top layer of wax to harden before the lower level. To avoid this, allow more time for the wax to completely set-up (dry) before removal.

Alternatively, lightly spray the surface with distilled water, the excess wax will adhere to the water droplets and can then be wiped away with Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel

Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised (there is an exception to this rule; Zaino Clear Seal (Z-CS) will bond to a wax / glaze and ‘seal’ it) Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many synthetic waxes, which tend to occlude (cloud or yellowing).

Paint and Wax Molecules

Wax molecules are (relatively, as we’re talking microns) larger than those of a cross linked paint; water molecules are smaller than paint molecules so it can permeate a paint system. Solvents molecules are smaller on a molecular level than wax, paint or water. A polymer, unlike wax forms a molecular bond with paint once it’s had enough time to cross-linking (usually 12 – 24 hours)

Carnauba wax over a Polymer sealant

Some detailers find that a polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look. Adding a Carnauba wax to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look.

Bear in mind that how a paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke an emotional reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises out gassed solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is applied remains.

Detailers who prepare show cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax; the synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking (jetting) appearance

Polymer sealants

Need a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity dependent.

As can be seen from the above a polymer must form a molecular bond with the paint surface before the application of a Carnauba wax, otherwise the solvents that are formulated in the wax may compromise the bonding and durability of the polymer sealant

A wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity.

Catalysing Additives

Polycharger - all modern car waxes and paint sealants use polymer technology for shine and protection. Polymers are long molecules capable of interlinking to form a mesh type matrix. This interlocking capability, called cross-linking, is what gives polymers their strength and durability, most waxes do not fully cross-link with the paint film surface.

A Polycharger additive is both a polymer booster and catalysing agent; the booster component adds two polymers designed for high temperature and high corrosive environments. When introduced to oxygen, the catalysing agent activates polymers in their liquid state, forcing cross-linking to begin immediately.

There are two different formulations; Polycharger CH2 for solvent-based liquid waxes and Polycharger H2O for water-based liquid wax products (including most quick detailing (QD) sprays).

Chemical Guy’s Vertu-Bond 408 - lightly cleanses dead, dull, oxidized paint and light minor oxidization, moderate surface scratches, accumulated road film, tar and calcium/acid rain deposits. Revives original paint lustre, formulated with essential oils to restore and enrich paint leaving a wet, glossy, surfaces that are superiorly prepped for sealant or wax application.

Product Application

1. An abrasive polish and a foam or wool pad are used to remove surface scratches. A machine polisher (Random orbital or Circular motion) is the best tool to carry out this type of process.

2. Waxes (organic or synthetic) are best removed with a foam applicator.

3. Polymer sealants require that you apply a very thin coating; this is best accomplished with a soft foam pad and a random orbital polisher

4. Apply your coating in two thin layers; not a single heavy coat; ensure the first layer is thoroughly dry before you apply the second (this is used to ensure complete surface coverage).

Paint Preparation (before applying a wax)

For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner, or what used to be called ‘pre-wax cleaners’ (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will ensure surface adhesion and enhance durability. Pre-wax cleaners have been superseded by many detailers by utilizing a wipe-down process (Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

The most common mistakes made when waxing or applying a sealant to apply too much product and removing it too soon. After sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your finger, if no smearing or drag is evident; and the swipe is clear and glossy, and then you know the wax or sealant is dry and you can begin the simple task of wiping it off.

Removing Wax Stains from Trim

Most polishes, waxes and sealants will white stain mouldings if allowed to dry on the surface. Wax build up can be removed with a degreaser, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or Wax Blaster a safe water-based solvent that will not harm paint or clear coat finishes; quickly, easily and permanently removing embedded wax residues in textured bumpers, matt-finish vinyl panels, and trim mouldings and glass weather-stripping. It has a foam-tipped applicator that gently scrubs wax out of deep texture and crevices, this will dissolve the wax, not just cover it up

Apply your coating in two thin layers; not a single heavy coat; ensure the first layer is thoroughly dry before you apply the second. For very small places (rubber surrounds and weather-stripping) use Iz einszett Gummi stick and a credit card wrapped with a micro fibre towel with wax blaster on the towel

How Temperatures affect Detailing

Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.) and 80.F (26.C)

· Surface Temperature (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.C) and 80.F (26.C) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. > 45. °F to < 90.° F (4.5-32.C) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.C) range.

· Most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.

· The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches

· A hot surface temperature will cause the car wash concentrates to dry out and when rinsing the surface will cause rapid drying, which will leave water spots

· Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail.

· The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)

· Cold ambient temperatures (40.°F >) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc.) will be negatively affected at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and become unworkable

Fracture/evaporation temperatures

[: the melting point of a solid is the temperature range at which it changes state from solid to liquid. At the melting point the solid and liquid phase exists in equilibrium.]

Polymers (including Acrylic polymers) 350.°F, Silicone oil 350.°F, Mineral oils 200.°F, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200.°F, Carnauba wax 183.°F, Bee’s wax 130.°F in actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt.

For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85. °F in direct sunlight will obtain a temperature of 195. °F or more. It should be noted that there is a range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is the end point of that range

The most important thing to be aware of when preparing to wax your car is the temperature of the actual surface area being waxed. This is even more important than the ambient temperature, which should be between 50° and 80. °F (10° - 26.7. °C) Higher temperatures will cause the solvents to flash leaving a ‘hard’ wax on the paint surface that is very difficult to remove. If the car has been in the sun for any time, it should be brought into the shade and allowed to cool off before applying any wax or glaze. Applying wax when the temperature is less than 60.°F could result in streaking or difficulty in removing it from the surface.

Storage (Product)

[Store waxes and glazes in a cool dark place preferably refrigerated. Warm them to room temperature overnight before use] Zymöl

All car acre products are negatively impacted by wide temperature fluctuations and extremes of high or low temperatures. As far as wax storage is concerned standard room temperature will suffice; a refrigerator provides a stable temperature / humidity, which equates to a longer shelf life to the products.

Water-based car care products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.F (wax 45.F) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.F with an average humidity range. Most car care products have a ‘useful life’ of approximately 2-3 years provided they are stored as above.

Keep containers tightly closed and ensure they are not compromised (fractured or leaking seals) store in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Do not allow to freeze. Do not store at temperature extremes (below 40 – over 80.F +) as heat will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc.)

Avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable, which will create problems with the performance of the product. Some separate out; others lose their effectiveness if they are heated past a certain point. Most car care products will separate and may become unusable after being subjected to freezing temperatures

The chemical composition of waxes rarely ever changes regardless of what form it is in, whether it is melted to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid. Temperature has little to no effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax, a cool temperatures and constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.

Shelf-Life

Providing them contains have a tight seal, are not compromised by fractures or (air) leaks, and use at least a single stage fluorination of the plastic, so that it is resistant to petrochemical solvents; without this the sides will ‘collapse’, which is actually the solvents in the product escaping through the micro pores of the plastic.

All liquid products should be shaken well before use and stored in light resistant containers

a) Polymers have a shelf life of approx. 3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above

b) Nanotechnology coatings - should be stored in tightly sealed containers and protected from heat and moisture. Recommended storage temperatures are 30. ° - 122. °.F Shelf life is approximately 12 months, provided the material is stored in sealed in its original containers, between 65. ° - 75. °.F.

c) Polish - technically 2 years, providing the bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated or the solvents haven’t evaporated by leaching (the bottle will become semi- collapsed) there should be no problem with use for three years after sale date

d) Waxes - will last almost indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original containers and in the refrigerator or controlled environment once opened. The liquids should last 18 months if stored at normal room temperature.

e) Detailing Chemicals (Wheel cleaners, all-purpose cleaners (APC) and etc.) have an almost indefinite shelf life if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above, see also Product separation

f) Product separation - if product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes.

Product shelf -life may vary from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg. or vendor.

Using Micro fibre

The first thing you should do when you get a new micro fibre towel is to wash and dry it. During the manufacturing process the fabric has a tendency to become flat and it might have picked up contaminants from the air and machinery. There will also be a number of loose threads that, while they cause no harm, can be annoying the first time you use the towel. Some towel manufacturer’s use a chemical to make the fabric soft, these chemicals should be removed by washing

Only use liquid detergents; never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are cleaning. (See also Micro Fibre Care)

There are many towel edge treatments including over- locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations of style and material, but nearly all of them will cause scratching. Either use borderless or fold the towel so the border is on the inside

Methodology - When using microfiber towels, it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all visible dust and contamination is removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost everything with just the towel and hot water. They eliminate the need to carry around different cleaners for different uses. These cloths are a great environmentally friendly healthy alternative to cleaning with chemicals.

What is equally important with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section. With it folded properly you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry

Using a Foam Applicator

To apply wax without surface abrasion, use soft foam (80 PPI) Lake County CCS Wax Applicator is the excellent tool. Applying wax has never been easier. There are waxes that need to be applied with bare hands, but for other paste waxes use the above foam pad applicator.

Lake County CCS Wax Applicator – the collapsed cell structure foam pad is designed to comfortably and naturally fit in your hands. With increased pressure to the foam pad more product is applied to the surface; this translates to a more even application and more efficient use of the product.

Applying Paste Wax

1. Always apply to a freshly washed, clean (detailer’s clay) and dry paint surface

2. Dip applicator into wax container with a gentle wiping motion to get a small amount of wax on your (damp or dry, see mfg. instructions) foam or micro fibre towel applicator, then using a flat hand (not finger tips) and light pressure rub it onto your car in a thin coat Using a clean, slightly damp (See note 1)100% cotton micro fibre towel, gently wipe it across the paste wax

3. Fold the towel in half and rub the two halves together to evenly dispense the wax

4. Overlap each working area to ensure an even coverage, since your spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel

5. Gently apply the wax thinly and evenly over your working area

6. After a panel has been applied, do a wipe test (See note 2) the wax residue with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (See note 3)

7. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until your entire vehicle has been waxed

8. I use a random orbital, set on a low speed to ensure the solvents don’t ‘flash’ prematurely, to apply wax / sealant for two reasons, it applies a thin even (providing pressure used is consistent) overlapping layer as it mimics hand application due to its inherent oscillating motion, and it’s easier and more efficient

9. A good technique with high Carnauba wax content waxes is to buff the wax with a Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel as a polyester / polyamide Microfiber towel will remove too much of the wax due to the way they are constructed) and then spritz the paintwork with very cold distilled water and wipe down; this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss.

10. Allow the solvents to flash / dry (vaporize or outgas) in the sun’s heat (approx. 1 hour, dependent upon environmental temperature) and then buff to a gloss (See note 2) using a Swissvax 100% cotton micro fibre towel. (See also “Hand Application” and “Layering”)

As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages.

1. The first stage is the application of the liquid product; friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into the applicator.

2. The solvent carrier system is too ensuring the wax remains semi-solid (i.e. spreadable) to find out if the solvents have out gassed (vaporised) run your finer along the panel, if it is dry the wax is ready to be buffed

3. The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers behind to dry and set-up on the paint, leaving a hard shell type protection

4. Next you remove the excess with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (See note 5). Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a s light buff to bring out its gloss

5. Allow the solvents to flash / dry (vaporize or outgas) in the sun’s heat (approx. 1 hour, dependent upon environmental temperature) and then buff to a gloss

Detailers Tip

It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used

After conducting a swipe-test and removing residue; park the newly waxed vehicle in the sun (or heated garage) and wait three to four hours, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity, this is to ensure solvents outgas (evaporation) and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine, you’ll notice both the chroma (intensity level or richness of a colour) and a deepening of the shine, then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the gloss

Notes:

1. Because a dry cloth absorbs liquids, application with a dry cloth will result in the absorption of the wax as opposed to spreading it on the surface, use a damp applicator (similar process to pad priming)

2. A Microfiber towel made from polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fibre), and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) will adsorb (hold onto) liquids due to its inherent properties, their unique wedge shape of the cross-section of each of the fibres, which enables them to slice into coatings lifting and removing them from the surface (much like a miniature squeegee) as they are wiped across the surface.

3. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to adsorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids.

4. The correct method for the application of a wax and to obtain optimum results: is to apply it very thinly. Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used.

5. Buffing - Swissvax 100% cotton micro fibre towel with a terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, were the loops are trimmed to produce a blunt fine nap, which is ideal for removing wax and for final surface buffing

Wash Applicators after use

Always wash applicators as soon as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the wax / polish contaminants will set. The chemicals used in car care products will negatively affect the fibres structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful life. Residual chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will cause scratches. Do not use bleach or high alkaline cleaning products as they will shorten the life of your applicators and/or micro fibre. P12S Total Auto Wash is a d-limonene –based (citrus) cleaner; allow to soak in hot water (120.oF) rinse thoroughly and allow to dry

Thickness of applied Coating

This barrier is all that stands between the environmental contaminants (ultra violet radiation, acid rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc.) and the paint film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 1-0.5 µ (0.004 – 0.02 Mil) thick

Anti-Static

Static [the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the other material]

Static electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each other (friction). Using products that do not contain oils (i.e. polymer sealants) will help by not attracting dust. Finish Kare's 425 quick detailer (QD) has in-built anti-static properties. A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by friction using a polyester Microfiber towel on a polythene clear coat

Removing Wax / Sealants

Water, being hydrophilic adheres to micro fibre; in comparison to cotton, a Micro (polyamide) fibre will absorb 98% liquids and moisture, while cotton can only absorb 70% at most

The polyester and polyamide content of Microfiber is typically; a blend of 80% polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and 20% polyamide (an absorbing fibre). The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate.

a) Micro fibre came about by combining two DuPont inventions: Polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and Polyamide (an absorbing fibre) this nylon hybrid is created during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids. The polyamide is used as the core of the hybrid fibre and the polyester is the outer skin.

A Microfiber towel made from polyester/polyamide will remove product due to its inherent properties (that’s why they are so good at cleaning without the use of chemicals).

The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave.

Conversely the same attributes that make Microfiber so good at cleaning have an adverse effect when applying wax. A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond with the paint surface, so when you remove it, you are removing excess product. An organic wax however, doesn’t form a bond with the paint surface but merely adheres to it, forming a chain-link type coating. A 100% micro fibre cotton towel will leave enough of the wax behind to enable it to form a surface coating.

b) Cotton Towel - 100% cotton micro fibre with terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.

1. A Swissvax towel made from 100% cotton micro fibre with a terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.

2. Zymöl Microwipe is an alternative to final buffing with a Swissvax or Zymöl 100% cotton micro fibre towel. This e ultra-lightweight, "rubber" (nylon + nytril) quad axial woven material repels wax, forcing all of it to bond during application.

How long will a wax protection last?

Carnauba wax- molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface. These wax molecules form an egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth.

Waxes in themselves even with the addition of silicone fluids are not as durable as the amino-functional silicones found in polymers in the formulation, do not crosslink but will resist many environmental contaminants only for a short period of time. Brazilian Carnauba wax is usually blended with natural oils (to provide gloss) and modern polymers (to provide shine)

There is no standard answer to how long a car wax will last, as there are many variables that influence the durability of wax such as: type and colour of paint, condition of paint, environmental conditions, and hours kept outdoors, quality of wax used, and how often the car is washed. Through dissipation Carnauba wax are limited in their protecting capabilities. More specifically, these wax compounds have a melting point of 183.oF when the temperature of the painted surface exceeds the melting point of the compound applied thereon; the waxes will melt from a hard wax to oil.

When this occurs, the waxes are easily washed off and, more importantly, will pick up dust particles and other air pollutants. In actual practice, the temperature frequently leads to melting of the wax compounds (which also contains solvents and sometime Beeswax (130.oF low melting points).

For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 80. oF in direct sunlight, will rise up to a temperature of 185.oF or more. Consequently, the extremely fine film of wax covering the peaks of the painted surface is very quickly dissipated, leaving them exposed to the elements to become oxidized.

If the paint finishes contain silver or aluminium metallic particles, then the wax coatings would provide little or no protection, since the metallic particles retain more heat and, therefore, rapidly destroy the protection of the waxes.

Generally, you can expect 25% of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 50% after 60 days and 75% gone after 90 days, this is dependent upon many factors, ambient temperatures and conditions and product used. You should plan on waxing your car four (4) times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking in a garage, using a car cover and by using a quick detailer spray (QD) like Pinnacle Crystal Mist.

Time to reapply wax

Once you’ve washed and applied wax pay close attention to the way water ‘beads’ (shape, composition) and the surface ‘slickness’ this will become your baseline. Once the paint surface no longer exhibits those characteristics, the wax (and protection) is probably finished. Slickness and beading usually change long before the protection and appearance really start to degrade

Protection from airborne contaminants

Carnauba wax provides better protection from airborne contaminants than a polymer sealant; as wax forms a layer on top of the paint surface, whereas a polymer becomes a 'part' of it by bonding with the paint molecules. When the wax is attacked it acts as a shield that must be compromised before the aggressor can reach the paint surface. Each time you wash you remove the top portion of the wax, along with any environmental contaminants.

A polymer’s molecules are cross-linked with the paint so there is only a micro barrier between its outer surface and the paint.

Carrier system

The solvents and oils (Silicone, Môn tan, Mineral, etc.) that are formulated in an emulsion type carrier system soften the wax, without which it would remain rock hard; the solvents along with oils also allow the wax to spread evenly on the paint surface. The solvent permeates the micro-fissures of the paint surface providing an anchor, as a wax doesn’t form a monocular bond with paint like a polymer, it initially adheres to the paint via surface friction.

Once the solvents have evaporated the wax sets-up (hardens) to provide a shell like protection Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturer’s instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient, this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity

Note- Although polymers formulated in Carnauba waxes are not generally of a type that cross-link, a categorical statement that Carnauba waxes do not contain cross- linking polymers may not be without exception

Like most car care products Carnauba wax is designed to provide maximum results with minimum product application, most Carnauba waxes work well using the WOWO (wipe on wipe off) method while still slightly damp but not completely dry, generally apply a very thin layer, preferably with a distilled water primed foam applicator; allowing it to haze, then wiping off. I would suggest you do a swipe-test (swipe the surface with your finger, if the wax is still semi-liquid wait for a while and repeat)

Paste Wax vs. Liquid Wax

Most chemists agree that when it comes to a wax formulation there is no advantage between pastes, creams or liquids. It has more to do with production cost and marketing than; ease of application or removal, its protection or surface gloss abilities. The only ingredients that will make a difference is wax quality, percentage by volume of wax and its carrier system (i.e. type of solvent / silicone and/or mineral oils used) and wax percentage content

Paste wax is just a thicker form of liquid wax, a different consistency, not necessarily even more or less solvents. All natural waxes require a solvent to soften them (in their natural state they are as hard as concrete and are sold as a solid block or as flakes) Some wax products use an emulsion (oil-in water) to keep more liquid without adding more solvents which, in high concentrations could affect durability as it would dilute the wax content, the emulsion helps to lubricate the paint surface and enables the wax to spread evenly before the solvents flash and the wax reverts to its 'hard' consistency.

Dispensing paste wax- invert the jar on top of the pad; let the wax slide onto pad, angle the jar or squeeze to hold the wax in place, and spread evenly on the foam pad.

Wax Applicators

Foam wax applicators are probably the most utilised car accessory there is. The reason being they are cheap, but absolutely perfect for the application of any type of car wax or sealant.

These are the most inexpensive but possibly the most useful car care product, constructed from high quality closed cell soft polymer foam they are pliable, strong and efficient and most are machine washable. One caveat: avoid the mistake of improper usage, i.e. overuse, cross-contamination, dehydrated pads, and insufficient cleansing after use

I would recommend dampening the applicator for best results, as the damp applicator enables the user to apply a uniform thin layer of wax. Apply your coating in two thin layers; not a single heavy coat; make sure the first layer is thoroughly dry before you apply the second (this is used to ensure complete surface coverage)

· Chemical Guys – Wax + Dressing Applicators (W-APS)

· Pinnacle Foam Wax Applicator - made of quality closed cell soft poly-foam that is pliable, strong, and efficient.

· Zymöl Monza Foam Car Wax Applicator Pads - are ultra-soft and use a tight cell structure to offer safe and even application of product on a variety of surfaces.

· Dodo Juice - Supernatural Finger Mitt Wax Applicator - these hand-stitched foam ‘finger mitts’ are therefore made from high density 110ppi foam – the softest you can get. Wax is kept on the surface of the paint, rather than being absorbed back into the applicator, due to it being made from closed cell foam. They give you the ‘feel’ of applying wax by your fingertips, but with the consistency of foam pad application.

· Zaino Custom Polish Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator, approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.

Humidity affects the application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you that the humidity is high. This will also retard the set-up time, usually, if the car is left in the sun for a few minutes after the wax has been applied the streaks will disappear.

Windy conditions affect the curing of the wax because winds move more oxygen across the waxed surface, curing it faster. If you must wax your car on a windy humid day, wax smaller sections at a time (one foot by one foot)

Applicator Care

Most car care products contain polymer or oils that serve as surface lubricants. Even if you rinse the applicator immediately after using it, the oily residue remains because oil and water are not miscible.

To properly clean the micro fibre or foam applicator pads, you need to use a fairly strong cleaner that contains a degreaser, especially for applicators that have been used for wax or sealant application as they are formulated to be detergent resistant (P21S Total Auto Wash or Optimum power clean).

Surface Temperature

Actual surface temperature of the vehicle between 50 °F (10 °C) and 80 °F (26 °C) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45° to 90 ° F (4.5-32 °C) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70 ° F (15-21 °C) range surrounding air temp (ambient or room)

Adhesion Carnauba - Polymer

Carnauba wax (liquid or paste) once set-up will adhere to a polymer provided the polymer has cross-linked (12-24 hours); conversely if a polymer is applied on top of a Carnauba wax it is unable to form a molecular bond due to the waxes oil content (the exception to this rule is Zaino Clear Seal (Z-CS) a polymer that does form a strong bond to wax/oil

Carnauba Wax is a preferential ingredient in;

• Polishes – Shoe, furniture, leather

• Automobile, floor, fruit, candies

• Finishes – Leather

• Cosmetics – Creams, Lipsticks

• Casting – Precision, Investment

• Lubricants – Greases, Mould Releases, Phonograph Records

• Buffing – Wooden ware

• Inks – Carbon Paper

• Protective Coatings – Varnishes, lacquers, enamels

• Candles

• Medicinal – Salves, Ointments

• Carnauba wax is FDA approved under regulation; 21 CFR 184.1978- 21 CFR 175.320 C.T.F.A. listed - C.A.S. #8015-86.9

White Carnauba Wax

Number one grade Carnauba varies from a very pale yellow (so called ‘white’), through a greenish brown (yellow). It is the world’s purest, hardest and most transparent natural wax repellent derived from the Brazilian palm Copernia Cerefera. This wax coats the leaves and is hydrophobic; it forms a barrier that is a natural deterrent from acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird excrement.

Its colour is determined by the ages of the leaves when harvested, and ranges from pale yellow (new, unopened leaves) to a greenish brown (older leaves exposed to sun and weather).

There are various grades available (#1 Yellow and Yellow) the pale yellow wax (sometimes termed Ivory) has the highest clarity (very transparent) and is the highest grade of carnauba available, much sought after by concourse d’élégance entrants (See also Zymöl website) A natural (or pure) white Carnauba wax does not exist; this is just a marketing play on words to denote ‘purity’. In addition to colour, the wax is also graded according to area of origin—Parnahyba, Piaui, Ceara, and Bahai.

'Bleached' Carnauba wax

It is practically impossible to bleach carnauba wax white without altering its composition. There is a demand for white carnauba wax for use in cosmetics, or other purposes where whiteness is a prime need. White carnauba wax may be prepared by several methods.

(a) The carnauba is mixed with paraffin, the temperature raised to about 220.^oC, and activated carbon, or "Tonsil" clay is added.

(b) Carnauba is fractionally crystallized from its benzene solution at 16.⁰C, when crystals (melt. 80.^O C) of pure white colour is collected, together with a by-product wax (melt. 60.^O C).

(c) Crude carnauba wax is dissolved in boiling butanol and treated with metallic sodium, the effect of which is to bleach the wax. The solution is then filtered and the solvent recovered.

(d) The carnauba wax is mixed with paraffin, and then saphoified with alkali. This mixture is then boiled with water, and the white wax separated as a layer from the aqueous soapy solution.

The last described method, which is of German and Austrian origin, permits the utilization of the cheap lower grades of natural wax. The white wax is non-saphonifiable, or nearly so, and has a very low viscosity when melted.

Marque Specific Sealants and Wax

Paints from different (DuPont, PPG, BASF, etc.) manufacturers do not favour one wax over another; there is no factual basis for a special wax or sealant formulated for a specific vehicle model, nor custom coloured waxes with pigment dyes to match original paint. Wax doesn’t form a molecular bond with the paint surface; it just forms a ‘shell’, so there is no chemical reaction between paint and wax.

The clear coat is applied for both protection of the colour coat and to give it depth; some marques clear coat paints vary i.e. some are softer/ thinner etc. If you apply a non-clear wax or sealant, or a custom coloured wax it will only mute the paints colour and depth of shine.

However, some waxes or sealants are more suited to the reflective properties of certain paint colour

Red Zaino Z2PRO™ and Pinnacle Souverän or Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax

Yellow Zaino Z2PRO™ or * Rejex and Pinnacle Souverän

Black (Clear Coat) Zaino PC Fusion ™ and P21S Carnauba Paste Wax

Black (Single Stage) Pinnacle Souverän or Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax

Silver Klasse All-In-One and Menzera Menzerna APO88 Power Lock

White Aquartz System (Silica) Zaino Z2PRO™, Jeff Werkstatt, Klasse SG and/ or P21S Carnauba Paste Wax

Layering

There is a lot of discussion about whether or not it is possible to layer Carnauba on a paint surface, it works on leather boots (providing you neutralize the solvent) and in my experience it also works, up to a point, on a cars paint service.

Be selective with your choice of wax or glaze used for layering, since many are not 100% optically clear, so multiple layers would ultimately have an adverse effect as they will mute the finish

A wax is applied as a thin film’ (1-0.5 µ microns) as opposed to ‘layer’, a film more accurately describes a thinly applied wax, were as a layer tends to describe multiple covering.

Some specialty paint protection systems (nano coating) can have subsequent film added to increase protection and paint appearance, systems must set-up or cross-link prior to application of subsequent coats. Depending on the product type cross-linking times vary from a few hours to days.

If you apply a low-solvent product on top of one that has already set-up (i.e. the solvents have evaporated) you can increase its density up to a point (as opposed to layering) two to three applications are usually considered optimum

A second application is always a good idea as it ensures complete surface cover. As another application is added surface friction, pressure and the solvent used as a carrier system remove a percentage of the preceding covering. It may be possible to increase the applied product thickness but there comes a time when you are removing more than you are adding.

A word of caution: layering a wax may only slightly increase its thickness, but may well increase its density, which may make it opaque, negating both depth of shine and clarity

There is a method used (spit shining) in which you neutralize the solvents and its then possible to ‘layer’ waxes, due to their chemical composition there are very few sealants that can be successfully layered.

'Spit Shining’ (Bull polishing)

[Spit shining is the technique that is used to make shoes shine like mirrors - - and some of those tricks can be applied to putting carnauba on your car's paint] NickT

It’s not as lurid as it sounds, I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force (RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to spit shine boots to a mirror finish. You’ll need a can of shoe wax (Kiwi Parade Gloss) a bag of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax and repeat.

Re-moisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.

Layering Waxes

Most solvents will strip subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to the last layer; but a wax / solvent emulsion. It’s a diluted form of its original strength and won't strip the wax layer like neat solvent. If you apply a low-solvent product on top of one that has already set-up (i.e. the solvents have evaporated) you can increase its density (up to a point) two to three applications are usually considered optimum

One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicle’s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth.

The viscosity of the previous layer requires more solvent to significantly melt away than the next applied wax layer can contain The carrier system allows the product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce a flat surface (this flat level surface is more pronounced with polymers due to their Covalent (molecular) alignment characteristics). This level surface optimises the paint film surface's desired optical properties (i.e. surface reflectance, clarity, gloss, and depth of shine) I would suggest you apply on top of one that has already set-up (i.e. the solvents have evaporated) you can increase its density (up to a point) two to three applications are

usually considered optimum Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers.

Another ‘layering’ technique- apply a liquid Carnauba wax (liquid wax usually contains polymer and solvents) and allow to set-up (usually 1-2 hours, do a smear test to endure that its dry.

Then an apply to a paste Carnauba wax; allow the solvents to evaporate for 2-4 hours, and finally buff surface with a 100% cotton towel to produce jetting (a ‘wet-look’ shine) Swisswax

Spit Shining

Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted. One of the problems with ‘layering’ some waxes and polymers is that they tend to occlude (become less opaque) as the thickness increases

I think a better description of this process is ‘increasing the density’ as oppose to multi-layers. As for increased durability in my experience it does very little if anything to improve it. I think most proponents of this process are looking for aesthetics as opposed to increasing the durability of a wax.

Usually, a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba that is not formulated with a high solvent content A solvent will have the potential to strip subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to the last layer - but a wax and solvent blend. So it is only a fraction of its original strength and won't strip the wax layer like neat solvent. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness

What you are doing is neutralizing the solvent so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads.

The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it

Victoria Wax Pre-Wax Cleaner - for optimum results, this product must be used before applying this paste waxes for the first time. A unique non-abrasive formulation for regular and clear-coated paint finishes. Use as a foundation paint preparation, it gently cleans the paintwork and helps to create a perfect bond between the finish and the wax and create depth of shine.

Victoria Concours Wax - apply a thin coat, gently work it in and let it sit until tacky, then using a 100% cotton micro fibre towel gently remove everything to expose a finish ready for the wax. If needed, repeat cleaning action until all contaminates, grime and foreign products are removed. Remember, the cleansing and prepping process should only be done before the wax is applied for the first time and there after only when needed.

Using a damp applicator and cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax solution disappears. The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.

Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.

When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.

· Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.

· After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal

· Allow the radiation heat to ‘sweat’ the wax and then buff with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel.

Also be aware that the both the product and the foam pad may be non-abrasive, but application pressure if not kept to an absolute minimum and using use a very light and even pressure, may re-introduce surface marring and/or removal of the previously applied product by friction. (See also Spit Shining, Wax (Hand applied) Solvents)

Information resource- based on information in a post by NickT on Autopia.org and the original method used to shine RAF uniform dress shoes

Application of wax with Bare Hands

By using a very soft wax (Victoria Concours Red Wax) and the warmth of the hands as a catalyst to activate the enzymes and soften the wax; enabling you to spread and massage in a very thin coating of wax. Applying to small sections and massaging in the wax will quickly start the cure process and exposure to the air will allow a full wax set-up. Allow the radiation heat to ‘sweat’ the wax and then buff with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel.

Zymöl Carnauba Waxes and Glazes

Zymöl: [:'enZYMatic emOLient']

History

The original formula for Zymöl was founded in Germany in 1830 and was a handmade concoction put together for the local carriage makers. The original formula contained paraffin, lard, goose fat, beef suet and refined tree resin (Môn tan oil). These natural products had a very short shelf life.

After spending years looking for the right protective formula we found a simple answer in the town of Bischofsheim. The original formula, based on rendered animal fats was converted to plant oils and their derivatives. Being a natural product it is free from all silicones, abrasives, chalks, and petrochemical solvents, which basically means there is no scratching or any dust left behind, then the formula was enhanced with Carnauba from Brazil.

To make this 'enzymatic emollient' mixture work they directly applied the tool of the mighty Honey-Bee, Propolis contains the following acids –caffeic, ferulic, cinnamic and cinnamyl. This powerful reagent converts fats and oils into wax. Zymöl uses Môntan oils as opposed to solvents to soften their waxes

The product was taken back to America and broken down to determine the composites of the Old World Wax, so a suitable organic substitute could be found. They were replaced with highly saturated plant oils, such as banana, coconut, and cinnamon bark. Môn tan oil was retained, but the paraffin was replaced with Carnauba.

This formulation gave a clarity and depth of shine that gave a better than new finish. The Zymöl waxes are an enzyme mixture until they applied to a surface. Then the air acts as a catalyst and the wax starts a bonding process to the surface to which it is applied.

The breakthrough for Zymöl came at the 1990 Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance when Ralph Laurens Bugatti Type 57 SC took Best of Show award, and the car had been prepared with Zymöl products.

The members of the Porsche Club of America, BMW CCA and the Mercedes Benz CCA continue to use and recommend Zymöl as its best grooming system.

What makes Zymöl so different is that it contains no petrochemical solvents or abrasives, so it is safe for all paint finishes, including new paint. It also has an extremely high Carnauba wax content of the best grade available, which is Brazilian No 1 Yellow which gives both greater protection and increased depth of shine.

Zymöl and Swissvax do not endorse the use of an applicator for use with their Estate waxes and glazes for optimum results.

One of the biggest problems with using a wax applicator is that they can easily grab a sharp piece of sand and it can become embedded in the applicator. Without knowing it that sharp piece of rock is moved all over the surface starting what is later known as swirl marks. With the bare hands application that same piece of sharp sand would be detected and removed almost instantly and you’ll use less as your palms will not absorb the wax. Swirl marks are a fact of life, but they can be reduced considerably.

If you do apply via an applicator make sure to warm the wax in your hands first, it's is gritty enough that it will mar the finish otherwise. They use natural Môn tan oils as opposed to solvent oils, applying them with a foam applicator would absorb some of this oil perhaps having a detrimental effect on its aesthetics.

One of the main reasons given for using a foam applicator is to avoid waiting the required three hours in a warm climate / environment to buff the surface a second time to remove any excess oil

Applying wax with the bare hands is not a new technique; it was used in the 60’s. It will produce the best possible looks and protection. Wax is at its very best when the wax from the original jar or tin is in those same concentrations. The hands are not porous and therefore no solvents will be absorbed. Bare hand waxing will benefit almost any wax-based product. In the right hands it could make the difference between a good job and an excellent job.

Bare hand application is an essential step that should be utilized in order to soften the compound and also to spread the wax without excessive waste? Estate waxes and glazes in their latent state are enzymes and when used the heat transfer from the warmth of the hands acts as a catalyst to turn the product into a wax ready for application.

You need patience for this process; it is time consuming to apply wax with bare hands (don’t forget to remove rings) but the results are worth it. Use soft latex gloves; they are effective because latex will not scratch, and will prevent wax from soaking into your hands, it also helps prevent accidental marring from rough palms and from finger nails.

Put a very small amount of the glaze to the palm of your hand. Use the warmth of your hands to melt and activate the Carnauba wax, as in its latent state it’s an enzyme and when used the heat transfer from the warmth of the hands acts as a catalyst to turn the product into a wax ready for application. With your hand, gently apply the glaze in a light, even singular direction pattern over no more than three or four-square feet of painted surface. Let stand for 30 to 60 seconds.

Using moderate pressure, wipe very slowly with a 100% Cotton Micro-fibre Swissvax Cotton Towel (folded in four) to a brilliant lustre before wax is totally dry. Wait three to four hours, to ensure all the solvents have out gassed and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine.

Would you spend $30,000 on car wax?

With organic waxes you reach a certain price point, usually over $200, when you are not just paying for the basic ingredients anymore. Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.

Bringing a new product to market can cost upwards of $45,000. The set price point of a high dollar wax has to recuperate:

· R&D costs, the so called speciality waxes or a glaze usually sells in small numbers

· Product packaging, usually eye catching and expensive

· Marketing cost are high as the product needs to appeal to an exclusive market segment

· Vendor mark-up, due to low volume sales this is usually much higher than for other products

· A higher than average price tends to add to the elitist or exclusivity factor

· Carnauba % content is a very inaccurate method to assess overall performance or value

Then there is the luxury effect and products uniqueness. Mr Royce said this about the price charged for RR automobiles [The price charged is whatever the market will stand]

There are of course some less expensive (a somewhat relevant term as used in this context) Zymöl - Royale $13000, Zymöl Vintage Glaze $3500, Zymöl Atlantique Glaze $1800, Swissvax- Crystal Rock $1265, Swissvax Divine $3325, Swissvax Concorso $280

In the final analysis; a wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity

Enzymes (or proteins)

Heat acts as a catalyst that increases the rate of a chemical reaction; Propolis is an enzyme found in beeswax (a secondary component found in most car waxes). Collected by Bee's it comprises approximately 55% resinous compounds and balms, 30% beeswax, 10% aromatic essential oils, and 5% bee pollen and is used as a binding agent. (See Zymöl estate glazes)

Alternative products –

• Swissvax Concorso / Best of Show

• Zymöl Vintage Estate Glaze

• Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba

• Victoria Concours Red Wax

• P21S 100% Carnauba Wax

Waxes

· Pinnicle Signature Series II (Light colours) - is an upgrade, a reformulation of the original Signature Series Wax. An opportunity to reassess the wax and incorporate the newest blending techniques and ingredients the result is a wax that meets all VOC standards.

During research and development, he found that the “jetting factor” of the wax could be improved with the addition of a new liquid crystal polymer. This polymer was originally designed to form resins for use in electronic connectors. For this purpose, the polymer is left in a semi-liquid state that both softens the carnauba and enhances the wax’s reflective nature. The result is a wetter, glossier finish that brings out the best in any colour paint finish.

· Pinnicle Souverän Carnauba Paste Wax - (Dark colours and Red and Yellow) provides a rippling gloss and sharp reflections. This wax compare extremely well with 'high-end waxes' (Zymöl, Swissax, etc.)

· Victoria Concours Paste Wax as the name suggests, was originally developed for competitive use at Concours events. It contains one of the highest amounts of real wax content used in the industry and is formulated using

large amounts of pure Carnauba and an exotic blend of natural oils. It’s one of the better waxes for ‘hand’ application or ‘spit shining’.

· Victoria Collectors Paste Wax - developed for easy application. It is an easier way to work with by hand application or perfect for use with an applicator. It's not so much the shine, but the absorbing depth and clarity that makes this wax so appealing.

· P21S 100% Carnauba Wax – one of the most underrated waxes available, it provides aesthetics on a par with far more expensive waxes. Value for money its second to none

Storage Temperature (Product)

Car care products should not be stored at temperatures below 35 – 40.^oF, if they freeze they will become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 75.F with an average humidity range.

Do not store at temperature extremes (45 -85.F) as heat will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc.) and avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable. Most car care products (including Polymers) will separate and are no longer usable after being subjected to freezing temperatures. Warming them and then shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes

Shelf-Life

a) Polymers have a shelf life of approx. 3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as above

b) Polish - technically 2 years, however if bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated, there would be no problem with use for four years after sale date.

c) Waxes will last almost indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original containers and in a controlled (steady) temperature environment once opened. The liquids should last 18 months if stored at normal room temperature.

If product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes. Product shelf -life may vary from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg. or vendor.

Bibliography

1. Relevant Material Data Sheet (MSDS) – http://bit.ly/7uM4QA

2. Zymöl- (http://www.Zymöl.com/carnauba.htm)

3. Swissvax - SWISSVAX - the ultimate car care products hand-made in Switzerland

4. Wikipedia - Carnauba wax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia

5. Strahl & Pitsch (Brasilia Carnauba) - Carnauba Wax

6. Abstracts from articles related to Auto Appearance Chemicals – Dow Corning

7. Why apply wax with bare hands? by David Wyllie

8. The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes, by Albin H. Warth; Second Edition 1956

9. The Chemical Formulary, by H. Bennett

10. Propolis-Research Review, by La Rocco, Mike Vespa 2001

Information resource -