Materials
Technology
Automotive
OEM technology is becoming more and more complex requiring educated and skilled
technicians to work on them. As the materials used are constantly changing we
must maintain our knowledge base and utilize the correct products and
application methodologies to keep up with emerging technologies.
Automobile
manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is.
There are many so-called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom split (the
fibrous part of the hide) which are covered with a vinyl or urethane coating.
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use,
you need to ascertain the grade of leather and the type of leather finish
applied
Be cognizant that the leather and finishes used for
automotive upholstery varies from leather industry standard descriptions and
although the names are similar the type of leather, pigmentation and finish are
often very different.
So it is very important to be able to recognise the various finishes
and materials used by OEM’s as they all require different methodologies and
products for proper care and maintenance.
Automobile
model ranges use different materials for their vehicles interiors; leather
upholstery like Aniline Immersion Dyed, Aniline Micro Pigmented, (Urethane)
Finished,
Artificial leather such as MB-Tex and unfinished materials like
Synthetics and Alcantara, and sometimes combinations of products (Alcantara
seat inserts on leather seating) as well as various grades of leather hide,
full-grain, top-grain and split –grain (which is protected with urethane) all
of which require different products and applications methods
Pre-test Spot
Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the
material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the
product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.
With
all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure
it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product
is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some
knowledge of basic chemistry.
Surface
checks
·
Identifying
characteristics
·
The
water-drop absorbency test
·
Absorbency
rate
Read
the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a
basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you
use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any
dressing or protective products.
Always
select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly
and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t
harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc.
Testing
cleaners on an inconspicuous area is the best way to ensure there are no
surprises as to its affect, but be cognizant that it may not react in exactly
the same way as a heavily soiled area or that has been subjected to UV-B
radiation (faded) When spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always
advisable to spray a small area first (test area) then allow to dry to make
sure the solution does not react with the surface.
Providing
the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected
cleaning solution onto a 100% cotton micro fibre towel and rub gently. Do not
over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or
use too much pressure.
Do not use the
product if it adversely changes the surface colour or texture.
Surface Cleaning
Methodology
Leather
is only damaged by dirt and if it becomes completely dehydration (or over
soaking as the fibres swell and then distort) Before using a cleaning product a
detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying
to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and
will not damage it.
Diagnosis is the key, not
guess work. With all cleaning products, always test
a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the
surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
As
can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the
product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic
idea of contents, pH levels etc. Always select a cleaner that are
biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any
precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the
environment
Clean
the leather area(s) once every two weeks with a clean, cotton cloth that is
damp (not wet). Hydration is the most
important thing you can do to keep your leather supple and looking new.
Proper
vacuuming is extremely important; use the soft brush attachment connected to a
very strong vacuum cleaner to clean deep the stitching and crevices (especially
important with perforated leather). This removes the embedded dirt/dust and
clothing fibres.
•
Using a soft brush remove light dust from surface
•
Vacuum surface
•
Apply surface care products with a 100% cotton micro fibre
towel
•
Wipe area with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel to hydrate surface
•
Use a suitable spot cleaner as required
•
Use a Urethane or an Aniline leather cleaning product (dependent
upon ‘leather’ type)
•
Apply ultra violet (UV) and / or surface protection product
The
advantage of foam or gel over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture they
contain, very important for cleaning absorbent materials. Spray onto an
applicator; do not spray directly onto the surface as it could cause
spotting.
Allowed
to remain in place these types of cleaners gently loosen and encapsulate
surface dirt and grime so it can be gently wiped away. For heavily soiled
areas, or where the soil has become ingrained such as in creases in the
leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt.
For heavily
soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil, allow
react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and loosen the
dirt (Swissvax Leather
Brush) especially on light
coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and
lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer,
stains, etc)
You
should not need to use a chemical cleaner more than twice a year. Too many
chemicals on leather will remove the pigmentation or protection applied at the
tannery. This will dramatically decrease the life of the leather finish.
Alternative: Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner
Wipes - contains a highly effective detergent for
stubborn dirt. It can be used on all type of leather except Nubuck and suede.
Choosing a Leather
Care Product
The
most important consideration in leather care is to identify the finished
leather used. Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied
finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable
products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth) First
you need to identify the material and finishes used; Aniline and Protected
or Coated
Different
types of leather require specific cleaning and care and therefore require a
slightly different process. Check your 'leather type' before attempting to
clean or apply any products to its surface.
Leather
Master Products are used as a ‘benchmark’ by other leather care product
vendors. All aqueous (water- based) cleaners will remove any body oil or salts,
dirt and grime and wash them from the leather surface.
Today,
Leather Masters™ leads the industry with over
350 different leather products. All Leather Masters™ products are manufactured in Montecchio Maggiore, Italy.
The
world's largest tannery, located nearby, keeps them up to date on the latest
changes within the industry. As an added bonus you’ll use a lesser amount of
product with superior results.
The
complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring
and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is
further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from
abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s
AC system.
Leather Cleaning
Tools
·
A soft upholstery brush (Swissvax Leather Brush) –
http//: www. detailersdomain.com
·
A soft (CCS Euro Foam Applicator) sponge for cleaner
application
·
AG Hi Tech Cleaning Pads specially designed to
enhance the cleaning power and performance of cleaners on a wide variety of
interior surfaces.
·
100% cotton 100% cotton micro fibre towel towels (for Aniline leather) (Swisswax)
·
3M delicate duty scuff pad (White)
·
DI Accessories Terry Cloth Applicator
(for urethane covered) leather
Foam Cleaner
Foam
from a solvent free pump action dispenser is extremely efficient for the
cleaning of leather upholstery as it lifts and encapsulates dirt to enable it
to be safely removed without scratching the surface. The foam created by an
aerosol or pump type dispenser has the consistency of shaving cream, making it
ideal for leather
Leather
Master Rapid S Cleaner (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated) is a concentrated
cleaner specifically designed for automotive leather (including Nappa and
Perforated) that have accumulated dirt, soil, and dye transfer and body oils.
Dispense
foam onto the car seats, work foam into the surface with a dampened sponge,
allowing it to sit for one minute and wipe the foam away with a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel, and then protect with Protection Cream once dry do
not allow a leather protection product to dry as it can leave spotting
For
heavily soiled areas, or where the leather has become engrained with creases in
the leather, a soft brush can be used to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush)
Stains
(See also Leather Protection) The
first thing you should do upon discovering a stain is to act immediately. Don’t
wait because heat and/or time will just cause the stain to set in deeper,
resist the urge to rub or wet it as this will make it much harder to remove. Be
patient, some stains respond slowly, some stains cannot be removed due to
differences in fibres, dyes, construction of fabric, finishes, etc; this would
also depend on the length of time the stain has remained on the fabric. Some
stains will require professional treatment and/or re- dyeing.
Before
deciding upon treatment, you should first access what ‘type’ of stain it is,
before a stain can be removed the surface tension that bonds it must be
released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed.
With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to
ensure it won't discolour the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is
suitable for the material.
Since
perspiration and oils are a major stain factor in leather, be cognizant of bare
skin when you are in your vehicle.
a) Perspiration
(Transpiration) consists mainly of water, but also contains minerals,
lactate, sodium and urea. It will leave a white residue, as it is slightly
acidic it will stain, and should be removed from the surface ASAP (See also Body
Oils)
b) Body Oils
If
you use suntan lotion or Spray Tan, be sure to use a towel when you get back in
your vehicle so that the oil does not get onto your leather. You can also use a
towel when leaving the gym as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids
that will stain.
(See also Oil and oil-based Products)
c) Blood
Is
an organic stain and should be removed as soon as possible; if it sets it will
be more difficult to remove. Once the stain has been removed the area should
also be treated with a disinfectant (Lysol™ Disinfectant).
Take
all necessary precautions when dealing with blood (latex cloves, and etc) and
when disposing of blood stained items.
Wipe
down the area with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel and remove blood stains
using a 2:1 solution cold distilled water / Hydrogen peroxide, this will
eliminate the blood and provide a disinfectant. Finally thoroughly rinse the
area with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel as hydrogen peroxide will
‘bleach’ the leather if allowed to remain
d) Pet stains and odour
An
organic stain that should be removed as soon as possible by using specially
formulated enzyme action cleaner to eliminate odours caused by pet urine or
vomit to digest the stains and odours left behind by pet urine and faeces. (Petastic Naturals)
e) Dye Transfer
Colour
transfer, sometimes called crocking. Crocking is where the dye will abrade the
top coat layer of the leather. Leather Master Leather Dye Transfer
Cleaner - (A-Aniline
/ Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated) dye
transfer is a specialized cleaner and stain remover designed to eliminate
colour and dye transfers on light types leathers. Use for the removal of blue
jean transfer, newspaper print and deep stains like mustard on protected
finished leathers. This product works, even when nothing else will.
Often on
light-colour leathers, it appears that the colour is coming off the leather
because you can only see the surface. What has actually happened is a transfer
of a lighter colour to the leather's surface from blue jeans and/or newspaper print.
If
the dye has permeated then the finish should be softened to help release the
dye (Leather Master Soft Touch)
Using a strong solvent on leather that has a stain or dye transfer will do two
things; cause the dye to ‘bleed’ further into the surface making it even more
difficult to remove, and it may damage the finish requiring replacement.
As always with stain removal; start with the least invasive
first.
1. Diluted Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
2.
A 1:1 solvent / detergent solution; d-limonene based (citrus)
solvent (P21S® Total Auto Wash) and a slightly alkaline
detergent.
You
may not see complete removal immediately; check your results after a few hours.
If you have tried appropriate leather cleaning products with no success it does
not mean that the products do not work simply that the problem is not a
'cleaning' one and the dye transfer is more severe or has been on too long
The
surface may require re-coloring with a very light pigment coating applied to
recolor. This would not require a full recolor as long as you had a pigment
that matched the leather.
Use
Leatherequi Super Prepping Agent and 1000 grit finishing paper, lightly wet
sand the leather. Wipe surface with soft 100% cotton micro fibre towel to
remove as much of the faded or oxidized leather dye as possible. Re-dye the
leather.
f) Coffee
If
the coffee has permeated the leather and left a stain there is nothing that
will remove it as the surface has been dyed. If the stain is on the surface
(see Leather Master Super Remover) but will not clean off then the colour will
need to be restored and refinished.
g) Ink Stains
Sadly
the prognosis on ink stains or colour transfer on leather is not good; as the
stain permeates the leather and dyes it, and for this reason it is not easily
released, especially if it has been allowed to set.
Aniline
leathers have an aqueous (water- based) pigmentation that is absorbent, so an
ink stain will permeate the leather hide, dyeing it, making it almost
impossible to remove.
Urethane
coated leather are also aqueous (water- based), so inks and dyes will permeate
and be absorbed by the clear protective lacquer. Therefore the only way to
remove the stain is to remove this clear lacquer.
Hairspray
contains solvents and should not be used; as it contains solvents that dissolve
the clear protective pigmentation or urethane that covers the leather dye.
Removing this lacquer means that the leather absorbs dirt immediately, and this
will not come off. It also dilutes the stain and act as a carrier system to
permeate the covering. Using household cleaners will usually exasperate the
problem
1. Ink Away Ink Remover (P-Protected / Coated) is designed for removal of recent (within 48 hours) ink
contamination. Ink marks older than 3-5 days may not respond or will only be
lightened (see Strong Effect Cleaner). The biodegradable formula is very easy
to use (wax-like stick container) and works well for all types of ink as well
as lipstick
2. Professional
Ink Remover (P-Protected
/ Coated) - safely removes ink from: automotive interior surfaces, leather
& cloth upholstery, stains like mustard on protected leathers. This product
works, even when nothing else will. Often on light-colour leathers, it appears
that the colour is coming off the leather because you can only see the surface.
What has actually happened is a transfer of a lighter colour to the leather's
surface from blue jeans and/or newspaper print.
3. Strong
Effect Cleaner - (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated) Leather Master's
"Strong Cleaner" is arguably the most effective leather cleaner on
the market.
4. If the above cleaner has not
removed the ink try a ‘safe’ solvent (Cliptone GT14 Safety
Solvent Cleaner, A-Aniline
/ Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated ) on a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel, pat the stain using light pressure, this will break
up the ink dyes, and make it easier to wipe off. Do not rub affected area otherwise
it will thin out and may spread the dye
Headliners,
sun visors, and vinyl and plastic surfaces.
5. Leather Master Super Remover (P-Protected /
Coated) - for removing dye
transfer, blue jean, newspaper print and deep
h) Nail Polish
Most
nail polishes are made of nitrocellulose dissolved in a solvent (e.g. butyl
acetate or ethyl acetate) which will damage the finish and may remove the top
coating (urethane) on finished leather.
1.
Removing nail polish from leather can be tricky and time
consuming. Always test the leather before trying any chemicals; if it is not
tested, the leather could be damaged beyond repair
2.
Acetone is a strong solvent, but can be used if you work very
carefully, generally acetone will damage the finish and remove the top coating
(urethane) on finished leather. Gently dab using a paper towel, don’t rub the
nail polish as this will exacerbate the problem by spreading the polish. Then
test the leather for colour fastness. This will help you determine if the
leather can withstand the chemicals needed to clean it.
3.
It would be safer to use foam cleaner (Leather
Master™ Foam Cleaner) which given time may soften it enough to enable its removal
with a plastic razor blade. If the foam doesn’t soften it sufficiently use a
safe solvent (Wurth Clean Solve) by applying with a small
paintbrush or a cotton Q-tip on the nail polish. If the nail polish has removed
some colour it may be necessary to renew the pigmentation
4.
If neither one of these methods work on your leather, contact a
leather professional. They have access to more chemicals and should be able to
remove the stain.
. i) Suntan Oil Or sunless tanning lotions- to clean leather that has
oil / grease stains, there are a couple of different things to try;
a) Leather Master Rapid S Cleaner is
a concentrated cleaner specifically designed for automotive leather (including
Nappa and Perforated) that have accumulated dirt, soil, and dye transfer, oil or grease and body oils.
b) If the stain is fresh it can be treated and successfully
removed with cornstarch rubbed briskly into the stain with your fingers until
the heat from the friction is felt. The heat loosens the oil and allows the
cornstarch to absorb the oil before the leather can; if the stain has ‘set’ use
baking soda and leave over-night.
c) (LM) Leather Degreaser, an aerosol product for
cleaning oily stains; it dissolves and removes oil and grease from leather
surface. This cleaner can be applied for cleaning all types of leather.
Dispense
foam onto the car seats, work foam into the surface with a dampened sponge,
allowing it to sit for one minute and wipe the foam away with a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel, and then protect with Protection Cream
Covered leather - (P-Protected / Coated) Iz
einszett 'Plastik-Reiniger' is an intensive,
non-corrosive, non-acidic aqueous (water- based) detergent cleaner for
urethane.
Prevention - since body dirt and oil are a big stain factor in leather, be
cognizant of bare skin when you are in your vehicle. If you use suntan lotion a
lot, be sure to use a towel when you get back in your vehicle so that the oil
does not get onto your leather. You can also use a towel when leaving the gym
as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids that will stain.
Leather
Master™ - Protection Cream will provide resistance
against this type of stains, spills and
provides the hydration necessary to keep the leather soft and supple
j) Water marks (stains)
If there is a stain because the water has dried in the middle of
a piece of leather, it has a clear point of demarcation to the rest of the
leather; reduce that point of demarcation by wetting the entire cushion or area
out to a seam or edge.
Take
a bowl of room temp water and a clean sponge, soak the sponge wring it as dry
as possible and starting at the spot dampen the leather and move the sponge to
the edges of the cushion, allowing the moisture to become less and less as you
get further from the spot. Do not scrub, just gently wipe.
Do
not soak the leather just get it damp enough at the stain to release the stain
and wet the rest of the leather so that the entire cushion can dry uniformly
across the cushion rather than in that one spot.(See also Water Damage)
k) Paint
·
Do not rub or use pressure on the affected area. Pat with a dry
rag to gently wipe the paint away if the stain is very fresh.
·
Try to loosen the paint with a warm water compress using a 100%
cotton micro fibre towel. This should soften the paint and loosen its grip on
the leather so that you can gently peel it away.
·
Clear away any excess paint by abrading the surface of dried paint with a plastic
(ScrapeRite blades) or single-sided razor blade
·
Do not use paint thinner as it will cause the paint to migrate and ‘bleed’
producing a larger stain
a) Use Leather
Master™ Strong Cleaner with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel to
wipe the paint off the affected area. Use a 100% cotton micro fibre towel
soaked in distilled water to remove the soap. Pad gently with a dry 100% cotton
micro fibre towel
b) Or
use a ‘safe’ solvent (Cliptone GT14 Safety Solvent Cleaner) on a
clean 100% cotton micro fibre towel pat, this will break up the compounds of
the paint, and make it easier to wipe off. Do not rub affected area otherwise
it will thin out and may spread the paint.
·
Use Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) on a clean 100%
cotton micro fibre towel, this is also recommended if the stain is fresh.
Gently spread (do not rub or use pressure) the on the stain. Wait for a few minutes, and then gently pad the spot
lightly with a dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel
For urethane covered leather try olive oil on a 100% cotton
micro fibre towel
l) Crayon
Abrade
the crayon with a plastic razor (or a credit card) and then use a heat gun (or
a hair dryer) and a towel to absorb any reside. Follow up foam leather cleaner
or a leather safe degreaser and finally a leather protection cream.
m) Wax
Freeze
the wax first with an ice cube and scrape off what you can with a plastic razor
blade (or the edge of an old credit card) With an all white paper towel, set
your hair dryer to the hottest setting and heat the wax wiping up the wax as it
melts with the paper towel.
Stain removal
products
Leather
is a natural material and varies greatly between manufacturer processing and
dyeing procedures, age of leather and individual hides. This is why it's so
important to pre-test each cleaner for its suitability on an inconspicuous area
prior to use.
1z
Plastic Cleaner (Plastik-Reiniger) - an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic
two-phase deep cleaner that removes grime build-up, scuff marks, bitumen (tar) and
nicotine thoroughly and effortlessly with dust-resistant anti-static action.
Use to clean armrests, door handles, shift knobs, vinyl seats, pedals,
dashboard, storage compartments, tires, rocker panels, wheel wells, and etc.
Water-based formula is biodegradable, silicone and formalin-free as well as
environmentally friendly
Surface re-Finishing
Pigmentation (Colour) Replacement - Certain areas of your vehicles leather interior like
seats, upholstery, side mouldings and steering wheels inevitably start to show
signs of wear, even if well taken care of, that spoil its overall impression.
Often these imperfections are not serious and are simply colour that has worn
off or light scratches in the leather surface which can be removed and will
disappear with the right application technique and leather pigmentation.
Swisswax Leather Refurbishing Pigmentation
Leather Master™ Refinish (Leather Clear
Coat) – offers the most advanced, highest-grade
waterborne coatings manufactured with pigments, not dyes, to give lasting durability.
Oil-based leather care products can cause the urethane covering to be
compromised by permeating cracks and fissures (i.e. delaminating; as the oils
effect the adhesive used) when refinishing leather demands lasting durability
and exceptional quality this two part system of premium coatings that delivers
OEM standards.
The urethane pigmentation
used for automobile upholstery is classified as a semi-solid permeable
membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while
retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following
the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate.
The urethane although very
resilient to abrasion wear from entering and exiting the vehicle, by using
additives it still maintains its physical properties like flexibility, tactile
hand and its patina
I hope the above article was informative. By having some
understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little
science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve
the results you desire.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated
Copyright © 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established
1980) all rights reserved
No comments:
Post a Comment