Wednesday 2 September 2015

Oxidation and / or clear coat failure

Oxidation and / or clear coat failure
The Basics

All paints are made up of three ingredients: binder, pigment, and a carrier agent. Pigment, or tint, is self-explanatory-it's the colour you see. Binder is often referred to as resin, and it can be helpful to think of it like tree sap, that thick, sticky hydrocarbon liquid that hardens when exposed to air. And carrier agent refers to the solution (water or solvent) that the resin is suspended in. It keeps the binder in liquid form until it is applied, at which time it either evaporates or chemically bonds to the surface of the car.

In general, urethane and enamel refer to the chemistry of the hydrocarbon polymers that form the resin (binder) of the paint. And that chemistry affects the look and durability of the finish, how it is sprayed on the car. Most new cars are painted with a type of urethane, and most collision repair shops use urethane to repair damage.

OEM Finishes

Consistent quality and the most durable paint finish coatings available to consumers are produced at the OEM level. These coatings comply with the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications and quality controls and are applied in a controlled environment, using quality materials and highly specialized application equipment. Also, the prefabricated metal used for body panels will never be cleaner and in better condition than when it’s used to manufacture new products. The longer the original factory coating lasts, the higher its value to the owner.

Automotive Coating

[: any liquid, liquefiable, or mastic composition which after application to a substrate in a thin layer is converted to an opaque solid film]

Paint is a liquid, usually comprising 30 to 40% solids and 60 to 70% liquid. As it dries it becomes a solid and a gas (the solvent) that evaporates, leaving behind the solid. The three primary type of ingredients found in most paint type coatings are –
1.      Binder (film former)
2.      Carrier (solvent)
3.      Solutes (pigment).

The binder is the film-forming component of paint, it imparts properties such as gloss, durability, flexibility, and toughness.  Many binders are too thick to be applied and must be thinned. The thinner is also called the carrier, because it makes it possible to transfer the binder to the surface. The pigment provides the paint with colour. All paints consist of a solids portion, essentially comprised of the pigments and binder, and a liquid portion. After the liquid portion evaporates and a coating dries, it is the solids that remain on the surface. Some paints form by solvent evaporation only, but most rely on cross-linking processes

The resin system's binder holds all the other components together, while the film former creates a dense surface, which among other things, hold the ultra violet blockers in place. Paint usually comprise three different solvents-one is just a carrier, the second is the binder and the third is the tailing solvent, which flows out the materials" to create a smooth, glossy surface

The tailing solvent defines if a final surface is smooth or has orange peel. The curing bake temperature is the cause of paint density issues, the misnamed hard and soft paint
Surfactants are added to stabilize the paint so that it will not separate, settle or become too thick to use. They also keep pigments dispersed for maximum gloss and hiding; and they help “wet” the surface being painted so the paint won’t “crawl” when it is applied. Surfactants also provide compatibility between tinting colorants and bases so that the correct colour will be obtained.

Urethane paint was first created in the mid-1960s, utilizing the newly-developed plastics technology of that era, to be superior to enamel paint in terms of durability. It also has the advantage of being a surface that can be applied over enamel if the enamel-painted surface is prepared first. A urethane painted surfaces is minimally affected by ultraviolet rays, making the paint a good choice for outdoor surfaces.

It is widely used in the automotive industry because of its durability. Inexpensive urethane paint might contain less than 10% polyurethane. High-quality polyurethane paint has a higher percentage of the expensive polyurethane ingredient. A urethane-painted surface can be expected to contract and shrink over time.

Polyurethane (PUR and PU) is polymer composed of a chain of organic units joined by carbamate (urethane) links. Polyurethane polymers are formed by combining two bi- or higher functional monomers. One contains two or more Isocyanate functional groups and the other contains two or more hydroxyl groups.

Approximately 30% of OEM body panels are coated with a scratch resistant clear coat and 70% are coated with traditional clear coats. When scratch-resistant clear coat systems were developed, conventional polishes were unable to eliminate the sanding defect. Menzerna took the lead in designing an innovative new polishing system that was successful on scratch-resistant clear coats while achieving even higher levels of surface quality and gloss.

The highest quality, longest lasting surface coatings available to consumers are the finishes produced at the factory. Factory coatings are applied in a controlled environment, using quality materials and highly specialized application equipment. Also, the prefabricated metal will never be cleaner and in better condition than when it’s used to manufacture new products. The longer the original factory coating lasts, the higher its value to the asset and the owner.

Finish quality is the primary attraction for new customers, but durability is also important. For this reason, many manufacturers go to great lengths to prevent the conditions that cause new coatings to fail prematurely. This involves critical surface preparation, rust inhibitive pre-treatment, and state-of-the art base coat/clear coat paint systems. The integrity of the original application allows responsible owners to provide a significant increase in service life through proactive maintenance.

Among the inorganic pigments, TiO2TiO2 white is, by far, the most important one. The photo catalytic activity of TiO2leads to a rapid degradation of the organic binder matrix, so the surface of the TiO2 particles has to be covered by an inorganic coating to prevent the matrix from being photo oxidized. This is done by applying layers of SiO2and Al2O3


Clear Coat Failure

A chalk like appearance on the paint surface or small triangular marks (crow’s feet) or other similar marks on the paint surface - basically the chemical integrity of the paint has been degraded by ultra violet (UV-B) radiation, stress, environment fall out, acid rain and etc.

Oxidation is sometimes confused with clear coat failure; the clear coat finish can become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if a high alkaline car washing solution as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out and oxidize the paint

 Oxidation really amounts to a weakening of the resins that bind paint, which results in the micro-pores becoming exposed and a larger area of paint becomes oxidized. Once the paint has been breached in this manner, applying waxes and polishes temporarily wets the surface making it appear better. The oxidation residue can be removed with Swissvax Cleaner or Duragloss DG 501   

            Correction- usually entails a re-paint of the affected panel, although sometimes wet-sanding may remove it, if it’s not too deep

Removing more than 0.3 mil (7.5ยต) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as the ultra violet (UV) protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is ultra violet (UV) protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it migrates to the top of the clear coat along with the thinner solvents and particles.

Therefore removing clear coat ultra violet protection is not a linear process; by removing a small percentage of the clear coat paint tends to remove a larger percentage of UV inhibitors. So once you remove too much clear coat you'll have no paint UV protection other than what you apply with a LSP

Oxidation is sometimes confused with clear coat failure; the clear coat finish can become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if a high alkaline car washing solution as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out and oxidize the paint

1. Ultra violet radiation is the prime cause of clear coat failure, infrared radiation (IR) represents part of the ultra violet solar spectrum (approximately 55%-60%). The remaining heat source comes from visible and ultra violet light Infrared radiation infrared radiation (IR) that transmits heat that will cause oxidation by drying out materials, like the paint (binder) resin system, the plasticizers in vinyl, moisture evaporation of leather and the elasticity of rubber causing these materials to dry out and become brittle and compromise their structural integrity
2. Ultra violet light; UV-B radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification, photosensitize (fading) of exposed paint surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and along with infrared heat radiation infrared radiation (IR) eventually the destruction of the clear coat paint film.
First, the paint take on a cloudy appearance, then as time progresses, we observe small hairline marks start to appear; that's the clear breaking down.


 Oxidation

Oxidation is caused by environmental pollutants (acid rain, ozone, industrial pollutants, hydrocarbons, etc)t UV- B radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification of exposed paint surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and eventually destruction of the paint film. Inclement weather or the use of harsh detergents in commercial car washes using strong detergents will leach out the oils in the paint and dull the paint film surface even faster
It starts as a chemical reaction that causes the paint film surface to overheat, dry out and oxidize leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration

                  Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize.
The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint.
The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) it is not a solid coating and is to some extent porous, the top most layer of clear coat paint contains ultra violet (UV) protection. Oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.
     Clear-coat dulling has the appearance of oxidation, i.e. paint surface has little or no gloss and may exhibit a slightly ‘grey’ colour but can usually be rectified without the need to re-paint.
This can be brought about by abrasive washing which simply dulls the paint; touch less carwash washing, which uses an acid that dulls the clear-coat and / or simply from exposure to industrial fallout and UVR, etc.

• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym Paint Renovator or Swissvax Cleaner) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications
• Apply a paint surface protection

      For highly oxidized paint try the following; this may help to eliminate some of the oxidation-
• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym Paint Renovator or Swissvax Cleaner) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 or more applications
• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (C.Quartz IronX)
• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell time for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
• Remove residue with 1:10 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water
Finally apply a coating (Opti-Coat™) a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a semi-permanent continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coating finish.

          Single stage paint systems (base and colour coat) – without a clear coat to provide protection, primarily a hostile environment will attack the paint surface causing microscopic gaps and valleys (micro fissures) and it becomes compromised both chemically; by industrial fallout (IFO) acid rain, brake /rail dust and etc., and by ultra violet (UV) heat radiation, which causes it to dry out and/or fail, further causing the clear coat to expand and often separate from the base coat, allowing environmental pollutants to penetrate.

Acids enter the breach formed in the clear coat and attack the resin binder system, which accelerates the degrading of the paint film surface, eventually leading to oxidation and/or failure.

Oxidation can appear as a dull and somewhat hazy, or `chalky' appearance to the paint surface, a paint film surface that is adequately protected with wax or a sealant actually has a lower surface temperature than one that is not.

A dark coloured vehicle parked in the sun can attain a surface temperature in excess of 200° F With both types of paint system the application of a Carnauba wax provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants, which means the wax is compromised not the paint system

Single stage is easier to correct than most clear coats, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish. Start with a Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam pad with Optimum Polish or Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP) you may also want to try an LC yellow cutting foam pad.

If you need a more abrasive polish; use a high speed rotary and try Optimum Hyper or Menzerna  Power Gloss with a LC White polishing foam pad, if  the results are not satisfactory then step up by to  going to a LC Orange (light) cutting foam and then if needed a LC Yellow cutting foam pad.

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know. It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. 

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience with the products.

By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
As always if you have questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated

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