Paint Surface Problems and Corrections

Paint Thickness

Using a medium abrasive polish and a rotary polisher will remove approximately 3µ  from the paint surface (typically 4 passes at 1500-1800 RPM) but there are many variables such as the abrasive grade of the polish or compound and speed and  pressure used that may affect the paint removed) These numbers should be checked with a paint thickness gauge (PTG) There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection.

A clear coat thickness is approx. 50 - 75 µ a paint thickness reading of 100 µ < (Microns) is reasonably safe for polishing.  80-90 µ I wouldn't use anything stronger than 2000 < grit polish, 70-80 µ 2500 < grit polish and under 70 µ) use a glaze.

If you have reservations about the amount of paint surface removed or the amount of paint coating remaining the use of a paint thickness gauge (PTG) is arbitrary

Note: 1 µ (micron) is 1/1000th of a millimeter or 0.0393700787 Mil or 0.001 of an inch

·         200µ + can be expected on older cars that have been hand painted or a re-painted vehicle

·         100 – 200µ - normal paint thickness

·         80 – 100 µ - thin paint

·         80 µ < - very thin paint

These numbers are offered as a guide only, as there are too many variables to provide any more than an approximation.

Paint thickness will often depend upon the OEM paint specification, which can vary by vehicle assembly plant. It’s interesting to note that painters must now demonstrate proficiency with an electronic paint thickness gauge in order to become certified to perform paint refinish warranty work for General Motors Corp. (GM) vehicles.

Types of Scratches

The less you physically touch the paint surface the less likely you are to cause scratches. Most surface scratches are caused by improper washing or drying, or by using unsuitable media. Avoiding paint scratches (as much as is possible) will lessen the need to use an abrasive polish along with the subsequent loss of clear coat

 Scratches in the clear coat or its sub-surface, that is to say any form of damage that is in the top layer of the paint surface, which includes; marring, swirl marks, scratches, stone chips, water spots and acid etching. The most common form of sub-surface damage is caused by road thrown stone chips, particularly on the front ends of cars. Surface scratches are invariably caused by grit being trapped between the paint surface and the applicator and being moved across the surface under pressure

Most scratches on a paint surface are V or U shaped, being caused by a small sharp object (fine sand or grit) and a slightly blunt object (belt buckle, button or zip) so an abrasive polish and pad are more readily able to polish the sides and smooth the points where the top of the scratch meets the surrounding paint's uppermost surface (paint levelling).

What makes a scratch visible is that it makes the paint surface two-dimensional and the light reflects from the microscopic peaks and valleys differently from the rest of the paint surface. When you abrade an area with a machine and foam pad these abrasions form a uniform pattern (the machine /foam pad applies an even and consistent pressure) and light reflects from its surface evenly without any two-dimensional reflectance giving the impression that it’s been ‘removed’

The perfect, mirror-like reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction the best example of spatial reflection is seen when reflected from a flat level surface. If the surface is perfectly flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the surface. But if there you have matte paint or are imperfections such as swirls, surface contaminants, orange peel, or oxidation (dull, opaque or un-levelled paint) light is refracted and the reflected light becomes distorted, diffuse reflection, which mutes the shine.

Technically we have different types of scratches because of the different ways they are introduced into the paint.

·         

Surface marring –could be in either in the paint surface or wax /sealant, the shallow surface marks often caused by the incorrect use of a micro fibre towel, improper washing methodologies or the scratch pattern caused by a dual action polisher. Surface marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily be remedied by using a very light abrasive one-step polish

·         Halo-scratches - (swirl marks or spider webs) which, when the light reflects off the raised edges of the scratches, appear to be circular but in reality they are made up of numerous straight line random scratches which are caused by washing, drying and everyday wear and tear. Some are surface marring, whereas others can be deep into the clear coat.

·         Holograms - (also called buffer marks or buffer trails) which again are scratches but these scratches are micro-fine patterned scratches which are caused by a high speed polisher and an operator who doesn't know how to properly finish down their work. They take on a 3D effect and if the car is moving or you move around the car they seem to "flow" through the paint.

·         Pig-tailing - caused by dried compound residue lodged in the fibres of a wool pad

·      Etching - is a type of paint defect that can vary in depth and frequency, but creates a unique pattern dependant on how it is created. Etching is caused by chemical reaction (Acid Rail, IFO, Bird excrement, bombs, and the residual minerals found in water) on that paint’s surface that dissolves the surface, creating depressions.

·      Deep Scratches- a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding

·      Haze - this is usually caused by using a pad / polish combination that is too abrasive for the paint surface to finish without leaving very fine scratch marks. Paint exhibits a general lack of gloss, this could also be caused by harsh detergents, solvents, or hardly perceivable hairline scratches or even a paint protection or polish that is not properly removed, all of which leave behind a dull surface that doesn’t reflect light.

·      Surface scouring – this is usually caused by abraded paint residue not the pad or the polish used

·         Swirl marks - Swirl marks (buffer trails) ribbon-like abrasions, the things that cause swirl marks are varied; an unnecessarily aggressive pad or abrasive, excessive speed or pressure used or too stiff a backing plate are just some of the many reasons for this type of surface defect. Even scratch-resistant and ceramic clear coats are susceptible to swirl marks if polished incorrectly.

·      Stone chips - and other minor damage are not only aesthetically displeasing they look unsightly and once they begin to accumulate, especially on dark coloured car. But worse still, because the stone chips, scratches and scuffs have penetrated the clear coat, your car will be prone to rust

Surface Inspection Tools

  

A powerful 60-100x magnification microscope with an extremely lightweight and portable design, it features a built-in light that provides a bright, clear image and a rubberized eyepiece for comfortable viewing. Powerful 60-100X magnification, compact design provides easy portability; easy-to-use controls allow for adjustable focus and zoom

Built-in light with on/off switch uses AAA batteries

            Digital Microscope

This unit enables you to analyse and capture paint surface defects, the unit’s interchangeable lenses provide The ProScope™ with tremendous versatility. With the 0-10X lens, it becomes a high-quality video camera. Magnification can be increased to a startling 200X power in a matter of seconds (50x seems to be a good magnification for detailing work) the lens mount is an industry-standard C-Mount that will accept third-party lenses. ProScope HR™ CSI Science Level 1, includes- 1/0-10x Lens, 1/50x Lens, 1/Carrying Case - http://www.proscopehr.com/buy.html

            Magnifying Loupe

Useful for checking paintwork surface for various problems (cracking i.e. impact damage from egg or to ascertain how deep ‘crow’s feet ‘or wither ‘water marks’ are just on the surface or are they etched, etc.) paint surface discolouration or other damage with a 30X lighted magnifying loupe

Automotive Safe Solvent

            Wurth Clean Solve is fast acting and will not leave film residue, safe to use on all painted surfaces. Quickly removes track marbles (pill-shaped pieces of rubber shaved off the racing cars' tyres) paint overspray, adhesives, tar, grease, oils, silicone and waxes. Can be used safely on acrylic finishes, aluminium, plastics, vinyl, fabrics, glass, and fiberglass

            ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep - is a paint safe solvent that is used for the removal of tar, grease, adhesive, bugs, crayon and stubborn stains on paint and upholstery. Contains no harmful Xylene, Benzene or Toluene, used for the removal of bugs, tar, grease, adhesive, crayon, upholstery stains and tree sap, aged Rap Gard and its adhesive residue, from painted surfaces

Paint Film Surface Problems (in alphabetical order)

Some problems exist in the paint, as well as on the surface. As you become more experienced with paint problems, you will be able to determine correctly which methods to use. 

Acid / alkaline spotting (small concave circular marks) – (this is not actually a paint film ‘problem’ but is added here as many paint symptoms are incorrectly diagnosed as this) if an aggressive alkaline or acidic water solution alights on a paint surface and is subsequently dried by ultra violet (UV) radiation it will produce a small concave circular mark, the so called ‘water spot’ (often with a white residue from the minerals)

Acidic pollutant protection

The latest nanotechnology PPG CeramiClear™ Clear Coat or the newer nanotechnology, although they are highly resistant to chemicals, detergents, scratches and ultra violet radiation (UV) will only offer limited resistance to acid etching. Organic or inorganic protective coatings, with the exception of Acrylic polymers, offer very limited resistance to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, industrial fallout, hydrazine and etc.).

The most effective deterrent, once the paint film surface has been decontaminated, is to apply an Acrylic poly amino siloxane or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are sulphuric acid-based so they hold up better to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc.) there is no cross-linking capability with this technology, and they cannot be layered, however, they form an anchor with the paint by etching, which gives this type of polymer its durability and they are heat resistant up to 350.⁰F. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this will act as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis. 

Anti-Static

Static [the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the other material]

Static electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each other (friction). Using products that do not contain oils (i.e. polymer sealants) will help by not attracting dust.  Finish Kare's 425 quick detailer (QD) has in-built anti-static properties.

A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by friction using a polyester Micro fibre towel on a polythene clear coat.

Air entrapment

May have an appearance very similar to solvent pop or dust contamination small crater like openings in or on the paint film; cause - trapped air pockets in the wet paint film that rise to the surface and "burst" causing small fissures; lack of atomization is the cause of air entrapment and may be due to one or more of the following;

•Spray gun travel too slow or
•Spray gun held too close to painted surface,
•Low air pressure or
•Improper spray gun setup.

             Correction- sand or compound with 1500 or finer grit paper to remove and then polish to restore gloss.

Artillery Fungus

[Sphaerobolus]

These resemble asphalt (tar) spots but could be the spore of artillery fungus they look very much like tar spots and are usually about 1/10th-inch in diameter, typically artillery fungus feels like a sticky film, and when flattened can be smeared appearing white

The term artillery refers to the fact that the fungus actively uses energy to shoot its spore masses, sort of like cannon (an artillery piece). They are usually found on the lower parts of a vehicle that has been parked at a gardening centre or close to newly laid grass. It is a fungus that lives in wood-based mulch, the spores are usually shot only a short distance (several feet) but the wind can carry them for longer distances.

Correction-They can be removed by using a chemical paint cleaner (Werkstat Prime Strong or Klasse All-In-One) or plastic razor blade to scrape and remove the spot. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.

Brake Fluid

Common Names-Polyethylene glycol usually a mixture of Ethylene, Diethylene, Polyethylene and Triethylene Glycol and monobutyl ether and cleaning additives; pH 9.5 – 10, this alkaline will degrade paint if allowed to remain on the paint surface for any period of time

Correction- remove for surface(s) as soon as feasible using a chemical paint cleaner and then an abrasive polish. If paint surface has become degraded a re-spray will be required

Bird Excrement Removal

To remove bird excrement without causing scratches; apply very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only, use a product that contains a surfactant; this will lessen surface scratching as they ‘lift’ dust etc. into the media used avoiding surface friction (use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle)

Use a long nap micro fibre towel to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap and not on the towel surface thereby causing surface marring. Shake the towel occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it

Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface, once they are softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?

Use the least abrasive product first-

1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4. Use detailing clay to remove any 'hard' surface granules

5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6. For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Calcified Water Marks

Often found from parking in municipal or underground parking facilities, calcified water spots on paint and glass, water and concrete spots are pretty much the same chemically; they are consisting of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) with the concrete being cross-linked with water. Often mistaken as rust spots     

Correction - these can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

a) Apply 1:1 ratio distilled water with distilled White Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) solution, and using a spray bottle, spray that mixture on the spots and let them "soak." Then rinse with water and repeat as necessary.

b) If the ambient temperature water/vinegar mix does not work, use warm (100-120 degrees) 100% distilled White Vinegar, saturate a clean kitchen sponge with undiluted vinegar and hold the sponge over the concrete spots for a few minutes

c) If the above do not remove them try equal parts distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and distilled white vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will help etch and dissolve the concrete.

·         Rinse the area thoroughly with water after the vinegar and then reapply wax or sealant to that area.

·         To remove any surface etching use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

·         Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

·         Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

·         If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots, consider wet-sanding the paint finish

·         Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed

Cyanoacrylate (Superglue)

Ethyl cyanoacrylate (ECA) C5H5NO2- Loctite® Super Glue is virtually 100% ECA. Cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that is moisture cured (anionic polymerization) and forms a strong bond almost instantly.

One of the easiest ways to remove Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) adhesive is to use Acetone nail polish remover. Acetone dissolves these types of adhesives, but use caution using acetone to clean Cyanoacrylate adhesive that is stuck to plastic or polymer clear coat; and avoid hard rubbing Acetone can also cause damage to plastic surfaces or even melt smaller pieces (test on an inconspicuous area first).

Most hobby shops and some hardware stores carry some sort of Cyanoacrylate remover. In fact, one of the most popular products is actually branded: Super Glue Remover (check to see if they contain Acetone).

Concret 

[: a construction material composed of cement (commonly Portland cement) as well as other cementitious materials such as fly ash and slag cement, aggregate (generally a coarse aggregate made of crushed rocks such as limestone, or granite, plus a fine aggregate such as sand), water, and chemical admixtures] 

Calcified water spots on paint and glass and water and concrete spots are pretty much the same chemically; calcium carbonate, with the concrete being cross-linked with water. These contaminates often drip after passing through concrete decking or the roof of multi-story parking garages

Whatever application method use using short strokes with light pressure or you may cause deep surface scratches

     

Correction-

•                     If the concrete is ‘fresh’ try using detailer’s clay

•                     Apply 1:1 ratio water with distilled White Vinegar solution, and using a spray bottle, spray that mixture on the spots and let them "soak." Then flood-rinse rinse with water to lessen the need to wipe the surface and repeat as necessary.

•                     If the ambient temperature water/vinegar mix does not work, warm (100-120 degrees) 100% distilled White Vinegar, saturate a clean kitchen sponge with pure vinegar and hold the sponge over the concrete spots for a few minutes

•                     If the above do not remove them try equal parts distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and distilled white vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will help etch and dissolve the concrete.

•                     Rinse the area thoroughly with water after the vinegar and then reapply wax or sealant to that area.

Back-Set by Romix is a paint safe acid alternative with no fumes or odours, molecularly breaks down the ionic bond in Portland cement, completely dissolving and releasing the hardened cement from any surface it is adhered to. Chemically speaking, Back-Set converts the positive ions in the hardened matrix into negative ions, which dissolves the cement into mud that can be rinsed away. Because it works chemically, rather than mechanically, Back-Set may be used to remove cured concrete, mortar, grout, and stucco from virtually any surface without harm. Always apply to a dry surface area

Clear Coat Failure 

A chalk like appearance on the paint surface or small triangular marks (crow’s feet) or other similar marks on the paint surface - basically the chemical integrity of the paint has been degraded by ultra violet (UV-B) radiation, stress, environment fall out, acid rain and etc.

 Oxidation really amounts to a weakening of the resins that bind paint, which results in the micro-pores becoming exposed and a larger area of paint becomes oxidized. Once the paint has been breached in this manner, applying waxes and polishes temporarily wets the surface making it appear better. The oxidation residue can be removed with Klasse AIO or Duragloss DG 501   

            Correction- usually entails a re-paint of the affected panel, although sometimes wet-sanding may remove it, if it’s not too deep

Removing more than 0.3 mil (7.5µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as the ultra violet (UV) protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is ultra violet (UV) protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it migrates to the top of the clear coat along with the thinner solvents and particles.

Therefore, removing clear coat ultra violet protection is not a linear process; by removing a small percentage of the clear coat paint tends to remove a larger percentage of UV inhibitors. So once you remove too much clear coat you'll have no paint UV protection other than what you apply with a LSP

Oxidation is sometimes confused with clear coat failure; the clear coat finish can become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if a high alkaline car washing solution as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out and oxidize the paint

1. Ultra violet radiation is the prime cause of clear coat failure, infrared radiation (IR) represents part of the ultra violet solar spectrum (approximately 55%-60%). The remaining heat source comes from visible and ultra violet light Infrared radiation infrared radiation (IR) that transmits heat that will cause oxidation by drying out materials, like the paint (binder) resin system, the plasticizers in vinyl, moisture evaporation of leather and the elasticity of rubber causing these materials to dry out and become brittle and compromise their structural integrity

2. Ultra violet light; UV-B radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification, photosensitize (fading) of exposed paint surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and along with infrared heat radiation infrared radiation (IR) eventually the destruction of the clear coat paint film.

First, the paint takes on a cloudy appearance, then as time progresses, we observe small hairline marks start to appear; that's the clear breaking down.

3. Acid Rain, as previously mentioned penetrates the clear coat surface and breaks down the chemical bond between the Clear coat and the basecoat colour. Again, this will cause a delamination between the layers since once the chemical bond is destroyed; only the weaker mechanical bond remains. Like the above reason, usually occurs predominately on top surfaces for obvious reasons.

A polyurethane paint (high solid / low solvent) clear coat can absorb moisture; as water molecules are smaller than a cross-linked clear coats molecule. Acid rain can permeate and break down the chemical bonds between the clear coat and the basecoat. This will also cause delamination between the layers since once the chemical bond is destroyed; only the weaker mechanical bond remains.

Clear coat bubbles (Solvent pop) 

So called solvent pop is caused by the paint topcoats trapping evaporating solvent gases during curing and drying (outgas) the pressure builds causing micro-explosions (pop) pushing up small blister in the wet paint or topcoat. Solvent pop will appear after the film is "skinned over" and when sanded will have pinholes 

•Improper paint prep
•Wrong solvent or reducer
•Excessive film thickness
•Too heavy and undercoat can trap solvents

•Insufficient outgas (paint cure)

            Correction- Fill the pin holes with paint, sand them level then sand the entire panel and then re-paint it. If the paint doesn't harden sufficiently then fill them with primer, and then block sand and paint. Apply a clear-coat to the affected panel(s)

Concave depressions in paint 

Refinishing using heat to outgas vs. air/time; auto body repair shops drying oven caused a ‘skin’ to form over the painted surface, trapping solvents in the paint. The vehicle was then subjected to rain water 48 hours after painting. The water is absorbed into the paint and implodes the top surface creating concave depressions in paints horizontal surfaces.

Attempting to correct this by colour sanding and / or buffing will expose the uncured portion of the paint. It is extremely soft, and will not attain hardness for several months, if at all. Attempting to correct by these procedures before it is cured will result in an opaque paint finish (See also Acid / alkaline spotting)

Concentrated calcium or Lime scaleOften from an indoor parking garage, the calcium drips down from the level above onto the paint surface producing a surface stain. When water drips off of concrete and onto your vehicle's paint, it brings with it a tiny bit of calcite and mineral deposits, and sometimes rust deposits from the concretes steel reinforcement (rebar), which dries on the paint when the water evaporates, leaving a light coloured streak that is not miscible. These types of stains should be removed as soon as possible

Correction- to remove the lime residue from glass, carefully remove with a plastic razor blade Lime on paint or plastic can be removed if caught early, use a 1:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid) or try the acidic (B) part of a decontamination system (ValuGard Decontamination Kit) otherwise it can be removed by using an abrasive polish or wet-sanding

Cloudy (Opaque) Clear Coat

If moisture permeates the clear coat it may become ‘cloudy’ or opaque.

Correction- apply isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to the area, allowing it to dwell for five to ten minutes and with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the area (do not exceeding 100.^oF spot temperature) the IPA acts as a "drying" agent, and when combined with the heat the moisture will evaporate

Corrosion (Rust) Removal / Treatment

Pay particular attention to places like wheel well lips, fuel filler, the bottom of doors or trunk hatch; the places where road dirt builds up and retains salt and moisture. Pay particular attention to any part of the paint surface that has been compromised (paint chips) or any bare metal and check that the drainage hole (s) at the bottom of the doors is clear

Rust removal - remove any loose rust / scaling and grind down to ‘surface metal’ were possible, holes, gaps; etc. should be filled with suitable metal filler (Bondo)

Rust converter - phosphoric acid may be used as a rust converter; by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate (FePO4)

"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.

After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be washed off, leaving a fresh paint surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance

Follow up with a rust protection aerosol can of ValuGard Rust Inhibitor and/or some Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust.

Neutralizing -washing the paint film surface with a slightly alkaline car wash concentrate and thoroughly rinsing will neutralize the contaminants and remove them from the paints surface Detailer's clay removes embedded brake dust and other contaminants by encapsulation, thereby eliminating the primary cause

Treatment- by applying a suitable cleaner and then a rust inhibitor (POR-15® Products) it will arrest corrosion on contact without leaving a sticky residue that would attract dirt, dust or grime.

Corrosion attacks metal by an electrochemical (galvanic) reaction with water as the catalyst. It penetrates the corrosion cells, emulsifying the moisture and separating it from the metal, leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect from further damage.

Since most corrosion begins in crevices, (seams), it is important to have the capability to penetrate these crevices in order to form a protective barrier. Many heavier or more viscous products don't penetrate crevices, instead they form a `bridge', and while this may isolate the crevice from further contact with the electrolyte it does nothing to eliminate the presence of existing moisture or surface corrosion. Injection into a seam or crevice with an aerosol or spray eliminates this problem Por-15® Products Marine Clean

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

Rust Inhibitor Treatment - a three-part rust inhibitor treatment by POR-15®

1. Marne Clean ™ cleans and degreases in one application without leaving residues, noxious fumes or flammable solvents. Its water not solvent-based and it cleans without leaving residues, no other cleaner works as fast or as well. It makes petroleum-based cleaners almost obsolete because it can be diluted 5:1with distilled water, thoroughly rinse with clean water after completing your cleaning job.

2. POR-15™ Metal Ready provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminium and shiny polished metal surfaces.

3. POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to an incredible rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from recurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.

Cosmoline

Cosmoline Remover (Cosmoline direct.com) is a solvent-based industrial cleaner specifically formulated to effectively remove all types of Cosmoline and other petroleum-based transportation coatings, which will not soften, dull, or discolor finishes. 

1.      Remove loose dirt and soil prior to cleaning

2.      Saturate a clean cloth and allow cleaner to dwell for 30-90 seconds

3.      Gently rub area to maximize contact between cleaner and surface.

4.      For best results, turn cloth frequently while cleaning.

5.      Repeat as necessary.

Caustic or Acid Paint Cleaning

Using highly caustic or an acid to clean a paint surface will weaken the resin (binder) system. The symptoms are very hard to spot with the naked eye and can be very difficult even under magnification. Problems can take time to appear, sometimes even years. Preliminary signs are the clear coat becomes opaque and /or cloudy, eventually the resin system will fail causing delamination

Dust Nibs

When painting vehicles, contaminants (dust particles) can compromise the visual appearance of the finished paintwork. Exactly how much this happens depends on a number of different factors, such as insufficient cleaning of the existing surface before painting, lint from clothing, the spray booth not being clean enough, and the air supplied to the gun.

These base coat or clear coat dust particles create small bulges in the paint surface, under close examination they have a speck of dirt in the centre of the crater

           Correction- use a fine Nib File for dust nibs and a coarse for paint runs and other surface imperfections after the paint has hardened.. Don’t use pressure on the file and then sand using ultra-fine finishing paper 1200 or finer grit to remove and then polish to restore shine

Deep Scratches (keyed paint)

Vandalism is an unfortunate fact of life; waking-up to find that your automobile has been ‘keyed’ or scratched will quickly ruin your day.  Comprehensive Insurance should be able to meet a claim like this without raising your rates.

A surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) is usually considered a deep scratch, which will usually require wet sanding and refinishing. Comprehensive Insurance should be able to meet a claim like this without raising your rates. An experienced detailer should be able to repair it or take it to a body-shop for re-painting

Use WD-40 (water displacement) until a permanent repair can be carried out to protect the paint underneath the scratch if it’s down to bare metal

Correction- Put a drop or two of Woolite® liquid in a clean bucket and fill it with clean water. You will need 6-inch x 4-inch sheets of Nikkens™ 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit finishing paper Using a Unigrit Sanding Block and a small can of paint colour-matched to your vehicles colour code

This method requires that you clean the surface with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and then apply paint to ‘overfill’ the scratch. Apply the paint in multiple layers allowing each layer to dry and remember "patience is the key"

·         Take your time go slow and check progress often. You don't want to sand to deep or through the paint. No need to be aggressive, eventually it will all become smooth and levelled

·         Layer the touch up paint until it’s higher than the surrounding paint

·         Once the last layer of paint has dried (allow 12-24 hours’ dependent upon environmental conditions.

·         Soak the finishing papers in a solution of water and a little dish washing liquid. Place the wet finishing papers on the sanding block and proceed very slowly, keeping the block perfectly flat.

·         Wet-sand using Unigrit 2000, 2500 and 3000 grit finishing paper until the touch-up area is level with the surrounding paint

·         The next step is to polish the paint surface to eliminate the ‘sanding haze’ by using a compound Menzerna PO 34 and an LC Orange foam pad or a SurBuf® R Series ® R Series pad)

·         Then use a finishing polish to bring back the shine; Menzerna PO 203 polish and a LC White polishing foam pad

·         Finish by using Menzerna PO 85 and an LC Black finishing foam pad

·         Finally apply paint protection of choice

The smaller the scratch, the easier it is to correct it with practice this process becomes easier and avoids having a panel being repainted at a body-shop, along with the subsequent loss of using your automobile for a couple of days or more, plus the cost of which would run into hundreds of dollars

For really deep U shaped gouges use Bondo Body filler before painting; use your fingertips to ensure that it covers any contours in the paint surface.  Although Bondo was created for cosmetic repair of dents in cars, the fact that it’s easily malleable and dries rock hard makes it perfect for this application

Delamination 

Clear coat detachment is the result of inferior preparation of the base coat (colour) prior to the application of the clear coat. This may be evident on any area of a vehicle where there is trim such as mouldings door handles, window trim, etc. You need to remove the entire clear coat and re-apply a base coat and finally a clear coat. If you don't the new paint will separate due to delamination of the original clear coat under the new paint you applied.

         Correction- repair requires correctly preparing the area by cleaning and sanding, the base coat must be examined (checked with a paint thickness meter) to insure correct film build and the clear re-applied.

The entire panel should be refinished rather than attempting a ‘spot repair’. Any attempt to hide the defect by wet sanding and polishing / compounding will result in further damage by removing the paint build (thickness)

Dry Spray

Orange peel has a shine but with some distortion of the reflected image caused by minor differences in the thickness of the clear. Dry spray will look cloudy and the surface will have a noticeable texture. You will not see the shiny surface you are looking for. In a bad case you may not be able to see a reflection at all. (See also Orange Peel)

It is caused by a paint gin being held too far from the surface, causing the solvent to evaporate too soon. It could also be caused by too much air pressure within the spray gun. Too much air pressure causes the solvent to evaporate quickly, creating both a ‘textured’ finish and a thinly sprayed layer.

            Correction- Wet-sanding will usually remove most of the defects

Dry spray will look cloudy and the surface will have a noticeable texture. You will not see the shiny surface you are looking for. In a bad case you may not be able to see a reflection at all. (See also Orange Peel)

Emblem or Sticker Residue

To remove the residue from shipping protection plastic adhesive, double-sided tape or dealership stick-on decals, the safest way to remove it without damage to the paint, is to use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover or a 3M Stripe Off Wheels and Meguiar’s® Last Touch Detail Spray diluted 1:1 distilled water or Gloss It EVP Pad Prime for surface lubrication. If the adhesive residue is thick try reducing its mass with a plastic razor blade and apply heat from a hairdryer in conjunction with the 3M cleaner

Egg Stains / Damage to Paint surfaceAs well as the impact damage, egg contains Albumin (refers generally to any protein with water solubility) and amino Aspartic and Glutamic acids that will erode the clear coat and eventually the basecoat if not neutralized / removed.

If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with heat / water (See also Reactivity)

Wash the affected area with an alkaline car wash concentrate (P21S Total Auto Wash) and then rehydrate the area with an Isopropyl Alcohol soaked micro fibre towel and keep it ‘wet’ for 4-5 minutes with the towel laid on the stain, do not agitate the surface. Flush with clean water and dry thoroughly. Inspect surface for cracking, discoloration or other damage with a 30X lighted magnifying loupe.

Impact damage (paint surface cracks) –

Use a chemical cleaner to remove any discoloration, Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner and then the least abrasive polish or wet-sand to level the paint surface to below the level of the etching (a shallow indentation in the paint surface caused by an acid)

1.      Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules and then use the least abrasive methodology to remove blemishes

2.      Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface

3.      For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

4.      Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

5.      Menzerna Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss. Use a primed Orange (mid-range, high density foam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action LC CCS foam pad 1200 RPM

6.      Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

7.      After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (wax / sealants) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be reapplied immediately.

GraffitiIz einszett GraffitiEx Universal Gel acetone and hydrocarbon free graffiti remover quickly and safely removes graffiti such as spray paint and felt tip pens from all sensitive surfaces including painted surfaces, reflective films on road signs, acrylic, and more. Formulated with water-soluble and water-based solvents and does not contain acetone, any aromatic or chlorinated hydrocarbons making it safe on the environment and for you

Galvanized pop

These are small sand particles trapped under the paint and over time as the steel sweats they form moisture under the paint and pop up like you have shown, the small white head in the middle is where it is breaking out. When the bare steel shell is fabricated in the factory prior to being galvanized the shells are cleaned and part of the process is a fine sand blast and then a wash off, when washed off all the sand particles should be removed but some are missed.

The next process is for the shell is dipped and galvanized with a coating and occasionally a sand particle becomes trapped between the bare steel and the galvanized coating and it’s not until years later do they turn into corrosion. If you were to puncture the dimple you will see few drops of moisture coming out and if you scrape the area, you will find a perfect circle of bare metal which won't be rust because it has always been sealed there needs to be oxygen introduced to create the corrosion.

Hail Damage 

See Paintless Dent Repair (PDR)

Haze or Moisture Entrapment

Paint will sometimes show ‘hazing” after removing a car cover that has not allowed transpiration. The temporary hazing, which can appear as a slight dull discoloration, stain, or raised surface in the paint is caused by the paint finish absorbing moisture

Correction- In most cases, by applying Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and exposure to heat (sunlight, heat gun or a hairdryer) allows the moisture to evaporate within a few hours. For colder climates, moisture evaporation recovery can be accelerated by placing the vehicle indoors and using a portable infrared heat lamp (or professional-type heat gun). Allow the affected area to outgas by not using a wax or sealer on the affected are for a few days

Holograms (also called buffer marks or buffer trails)

These scratches are micro-fine patterned scratches, which are sometimes caused by a high speed polisher and an operator who doesn't know how to properly finish down their work. They take on a 3D effect and if the car is moving or you move around the car they seem to "flow" through the paint.

Sometimes referred to a buffer trails, this type of scratch has a very fine, faint pattern, caused by the use of a high speed polisher and not following up by using a finishing product / pad. A random orbital polisher, a (soft) Lake County Black foam pad and Menzerna SF 4000 finishing polish should remove them

Latex Paint Removal

 Try removal in this order-

1.      D-limonene based (citrus) based detergent cleaner - (P21S Total Auto Wash) may help; be sure to allow plenty of dwell time.

2.      Solvents - dwell time is important, start mild with (3M™ Adhesive and Wax Remover or DuPont Prep Sol 3919)

3.      Detailers clay – start with a medium and progress to a heavy grade 

4.      Plastic razor blade to abrade the surface of dried paint with a plastic (ScrapeRite blades) or use single-sided razor blade

5.      A combination of the plastic blade or detailers clay and a solvent, be patient and work small areas when practical.

6.      The painted surfaces are frequently easier than anticipated, however the rubber and vinyl trim pieces may take more time / patience.

Leaf Stain Removal

Once it lands on a paint surface the leaf bleeds sap from its phloem tubes along with dissolved sucrose, produced by photosynthesis in the leaf. Some especially those from an Oak tree, if left to settle on a painted surface will lightly etch the surface; this is due to the tannic acid or tannin they contain

Correction - use a citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) or apply isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to the area, allowing it to dwell for five to ten minutes and then remove with a damp micro fibre towel. To remove the etching use a (least to most abrasive) a chemical paint cleaner, detailers clay or an abrasive polish

Lacquer thinner

Modern clear coat paint is porous if you saturate it with lacquer thinner it will often produce crazing if the thinner is allowed to permeate; this grazing may not be visible immediately as it may take a year to become visible.

If you’re using thinner ensure you localize its application and do not allow to remain for too long as it will ‘dull’ the finish, which cannot be re-polished

Moisture Entrapment

Paint will sometimes show ‘hazing” after removing the protective polyurethane transit protection film on new shipped vehicles. The temporary hazing, which can appear as a slight dull discoloration, stain, or raised surface in the paint is caused by the paint finish absorbing moisture trapped below the protection film, which may cause the affected paint finish area to temporarily discolor.

Correction- In most cases, by applying Isopropyl alcohol and exposure to sunlight allows the moisture to evaporate within a few hours.

For colder climates, moisture evaporation recovery can be accelerated by placing the vehicle indoors and/or using a portable infrared heat lamp (or professional-type heat gun). Allow the affected area to outgas by not using a wax or sealer on the affected are for a few days

Nitrocellulose lacquer or Enamel Paints

The older technology paints on classic vehicles are oil-based and requires the oils in the resin binder system to be replenished to keep them from becoming too brittle and cracking

Correction- check the paint with a PTG to see how much paint there is available before attempting repairs

·         Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly

·         A detailer’s clay process will remove any surface contaminants 

·         Use a chemical paint cleaner to remove any oxidation (Klasse All-In-One)

·         Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before polishing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.

·         Using Gloss It EVP Pad Prime on your pads will help maintain sufficient oil lubrication for the polish

·         You are now ready to commence the polishing process

I would suggest you use a wool pad for correction; this will reduce kinetic friction (heat) and not dry out the oils

Nail Polish 

Nail polishes are lacquer based paint (a solvent carrier and a pigment colour) which doesn’t cure but instead dries. When the solvent evaporates you’re left with a colour coating. To remove use a solvent that will re-flow the lacquer and help to remove it, this is how a lacquer thinner (Acetone) works. Acetone will not harm a cross-linked urethane, provided it is not left for an extended period of time.

Orange Peel (Textured paint)

Is paint film surface that has a dimpled appearance that paint takes on due to an equipment/operator caused defect?

Technically traditional orange peel is in the clear coat. It can however be in the base coat usually caused by spraying the paint dry.

There are several factors that contribute to orange peel – incorrect paint mixture (incorrect reducer for the temperature during spraying or incorrect mixture of paint, hardener and reducer) incorrect  paint-gun pressure and/or distance from panel, poor spray gun atomization, an operator not knowing how to set-up the equipment for that particular type of paint, or even a partly blocked paint-gun nozzle, improper pre-paint preparation and /or paint application, or uneven drying of the clear coat.

It should be eliminated after the final shooting of clear coat by the OEM wet sanding the paint film surface, and polishing with a mildly abrasive polish and a high-speed rotary polisher.

Note that some degree of orange peel can be found in most finishes, both OEM and repainted.

             

                  Correction- check the paint with a PTG to see how much paint there is available before attempting repairs Clear coat that is too thin loses its ability to adhere effectively (delaminating) to the underlying paint layer and will flake off.

A vehicle with its original paint has a higher re-sale value than a repaint. Due to the above; something else to consider is a ‘do nothing’ option and learn to live with it.

It can be removed by wet-sanding but this entails a substantial reduction in clear coat thickness, which may eventually entail repainting

Reduction - the way light is reflected from a paint surface affects the vehicles appearance after it is detailed. Reflection of light is either Specular (mirror-like) or Diffused (retaining the energy, but losing the image) depending on the nature of the surface. It is also possible for reflection to occur from the surface of transparent media, such as water or glass.

A paint surface that has 'orange peel' diffuses the light reflection, a wax also shares this reflection trait in the so-called 'wet-look' (jetting)So by applying a Carnauba wax to a surface that has 'orange peel' you are not masking the effect, but disguising it by making the rest of the paint diffuse light reflection in the same way

The body shop / paint area the dealerships in Europe are among the cleanest parts of those dealerships. The painters / body repair guys are highly skilled and well respected and the work areas maintained to be extremely high standard. The painters match any varying levels of orange peel as he shoots the paint. Finish work involves just some light spot repair with a foam pad and compound. The thought of wet sanding an entire panel and then wool pad compounding it is just completely alien to them and they don't understand why it's so common in the US.  Of course, there are painters in the US who can do the same, but whereas it seems to be the norm at dealerships and body shops in Europe, it's the exception here. (See also Paint shrinkage)

Oil Deposits 

Usually from diesel fuel exhaust, clean with a chemical paint cleaner and then apply paint protection

Oxidation (Reduction)

                  Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize.

The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint.

The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) it is not a solid coating and is to some extent porous, the top most layer of clear coat paint contains ultra violet (UV) protection. Oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.

     Clear-coat dulling has the appearance of oxidation, i.e. paint surface has little or no gloss and may exhibit a slightly ‘grey’ colour but can usually be rectified without the need to re-paint.

This can be brought about by abrasive washing which simply dulls the paint; touch less carwash washing, which uses an acid that dulls the clear-coat and / or simply from exposure to industrial fallout and UVR, etc.

• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly

•   Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym Paint Renovator or Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications

• Apply a paint surface protection

      For highly oxidized paint try the following; this may help to eliminate some of the oxidation-

• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly

•   Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Autoglym Paint Renovator or Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 or more applications

• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (C. Quartz IronX)

• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell time for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.

• Remove residue with 1:10 solution of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water

Finally apply a coating (Opti-Coat™) a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a semi-permanent continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coating finish.

          Single stage paint systems (base and colour coat) – without a clear coat to provide protection, primarily a hostile environment will attack the paint surface causing microscopic gaps and valleys (micro fissures) and it becomes compromised both chemically; by industrial fallout (IFO) acid rain, brake /rail dust and etc., and by ultra violet (UV) heat radiation, which causes it to dry out and/or fail, further causing the clear coat to expand and often separate from the base coat, allowing environmental pollutants to penetrate.

Acids enter the breach formed in the clear coat and attack the resin binder system, which accelerates the degrading of the paint film surface, eventually leading to oxidation and/or failure.

Oxidation can appear as a dull and somewhat hazy, or `chalky' appearance to the paint surface, a paint film surface that is adequately protected with wax or a sealant actually has a lower surface temperature than one that is not.

A dark colored vehicle parked in the sun can attain a surface temperature in excess of 200° F with both types of paint system the application of a Carnauba wax provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants, which means the wax is compromised not the paint system

Single stage is easier to correct than most clear coats, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish. Start with a Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam pad with Optimum Polish or Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP) you may also want to try an LC yellow cutting foam pad.

If you need a more abrasive polish; use a high speed rotary and try Optimum Hyper or Menzerna Power Gloss with a LC White polishing foam pad, if the results are not satisfactory then step up by to going to a LC Orange (light) cutting foam and then if needed a LC Yellow cutting foam pad.

Polishing Fresh Paint 

If it just came from a paint / body shop fresh paint shouldn’t need polishing. If it should, I would strongly advise against the use of heavily applied pressure and overtly abrasive products.

Automotive paint is classified as a semi-permeable membrane; that has both tensile strength and elongation (elasticity) allowing it to move with fluctuations in surface temperatures. Newly painted surfaces are full of out gassing solvents.

Kinetic surface friction and applied downward pressure transfers its energy into heat / torque (force to rotate an object about an axis) which; causes the paint film paint to become thinner by elongation and the pad rotation to transmit shear stress (twist), which could result in the alteration of the paint films bond between its substrate, causing it to delaminate or tear? 

The heat makes the gasses expand (pV = nRT) the expanding gases go through a phase transition (change in density) and to relive this increased pressure they rupture the paint film surface and may cause small fissures (similar to solvent pop or pinholes)

Paint Runs or Waves 

Runs on the vertical surfaces, is the result of a clear coat that sets up to fast. The slower the clear dries the more it flows out, the slicker is looks, the faster it dries the less time it has to flow out. It could also be the result of too much paint applied too quickly and gravity tends to pull it down (See also Orange Peel)

              Correction- it can also be removed (with limitations) by wet-sanding (colour sanding)

Paint Cracks

Acid rain, highly alkaline deposits, industrial fall or bird excrement will cause the clear coat to become opaque (cloudy) and / or etch (a small circular concave depression) another type of localized damage created by acidic substances are the results of water and high temperatures that will cause the polyurethane clear coat to expand, allowing the acid to breach the clear coat compromising the paints resin system, which is the binder that holds the clear together. The resultant cracks created will penetrate the clear coat, possibly down to the basecoat (colour). 

May be due to painting over ‘filler’ (Bondo) that has subsequently involved in a small hit

Correction- cracked paint will need to be sanded, feathered, primed and repainted. Most shops will apply clear coat to the entire panel.

Paint delaminating

This is usually the result of the vehicle manufacturer's decision to produce vehicles with one of the following conditions; 

•Insufficient clear coat film build 

•Insufficient UV blockers in clear coat 

•Surface primer was not applied over the e-coat (anti-corrosive primer)

The e-coat, (first layer of paint coating) is extremely susceptible to ultra violet rays, when ultra violet radiation (UVR) penetrates the clear coat and base coat; they are normally stopped by the surface primer.
E-coats oxidize (looks similar to chalk powder) very quickly when exposed to ultra violet radiation (UVR). Subsequently the base coat and clear coat no longer have a clean, firm surface to adhere to. Over time the base coat / clear coat detaches from the e-coat, resulting in this condition, which cannot be corrected by polishing or compounding

Correction- It requires repainting / refinishing by a body shop

Paint Photo degeneration

Why does ultra violet radiation have a more pronounced effect on red paint?

The sun gives off many different kinds of radiation. Most people are familiar with the visible light spectrum or sunlight, with colours ranging from violet to red, violet being in the centre and red a little to the left.

Ultra violet light has two components UV-B (light), which causes photo degeneration and infrared heat (IR) radiation.

Red paint when subjected to infrared radiation (IR), the most concentrated form of heat radiation, which causes the resin (paint binder) in a paint system to dry out (oxidation)

Any dark colour absorbs heat but the pigmentation in red paint fades quicker and its more noticeable because the colour fades to a lighter shade (light red or pink) whereas black fades to a lighter shade but it only noticeable when it’s in an advanced stage of oxidation.

Allied to this some red, black and white vehicle paints are single stage, that is they have no clear coat with its inherent ultra violet radiation protection

Paint nibs

This small hand-held tool is capable of getting into very small / restricted places. 3M Perfect-It™ Denibbing Tool a lightweight, cordless, handheld mini-sander, powerful enough to remove paint nibs and some paint runs, with a built-in battery life indicator, the tool fully recharges in its docking base within 30 minutes

Paint Transfer

Is usually caused by the abrasion of two paint surfaces and one of the surfaces transfers a thin film of paint

Correction – first try using a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse AIO) if this doesn’t remove it try detailers clay, failing this try an abrasive polish

Paint Blending (Repairs) 

Paint ages and fades due to ultra violet radiation exposure, which causes photo degradation (fading). This happens to both the colour and clear but some colour change more than others; matching paint colours is an art.  Combine the base colour coat with flakes and tints then add a few costs of clear, some tinted and some not.

The quality of the blend will be determined by several factors....

·         Prep work- sand / scuff beyond the area to be painted.

·         Paint normally and thin the paint (feathering) at the edge of the blend.

·         Apply the clear over the repair, thin it and extend the spot then dust straight slow reducer over the dry edge to melt the edge into the surface scratches.

·         Allow the new clear to fully cure before you try to polish the edge to make the blend invisible.

·         After the application of the last coat of over-reduced clear, immediately empty out the clear from the gun and pour in a little slow reducer and dust it lightly over the wet edge of your blend so that it helps the edge melt into your sanding scratches.  Don’t try to make the edge smooth by spraying this reducer too wet or you will cause the clear to puddle or run and then you will have bigger problems on your hands.

·         Use high quality materials because low-end products may not bond to the surface properly and may not get hard enough to polish without breaking back.

·         A good quality spray gun will also help because you want an even application of well atomized paint.

·         Dark colours are much more critical because you can see problems much more easily than with lighter colours

Prep the entire panel and then spray some color over the area, thin the color and spray another coat enlarging the area. That should be all you need. If you need more than one coat of color, be sure to enlarge the area a little with each additional coat to help hide the ‘dry’ edge

Paint shrinkage

This sometimes occurs after the paint has been cured. It usually resembles a fine, almost leather grain like appearance and a diffused light reflection, muting its gloss. It is caused as the chemicals and solvents in the paint system matrix evaporate, reducing the volume of the paint, this shrinking causes a wrinkle effect, which is similar to orange peel but not a pronounced (See also Orange Peel)

Paint Surface Staining 

A paint film surface becomes stained when continually exposed to an outdoor environment and inclement weather. Dirt and pollution accumulate in the microscopic pores and surface imperfections of the paint film surface and causes it to become clouded and grey, which over time causes a staining effect that hides the true colour of the paint system.

Chemical or pre-war cleaners are a mildly abrasive (CAS = 1/10) liquid polish containing chemicals will remove surface contamination that either normal washing or using detailer’s clay alone will not remove. Light colored paint shows this staining more than dark colours; white being peculiarly vulnerable to staining

Removing paint staining build-up requires detailer’s clay to remove imbedded particles, a paint safe chemical cleaner (Klasse AIO) to clean road dirt and grime and a machine polish to clean the surface and replace the necessary oils. Once the surface has been ‘cleaned’ apply a polymer sealant and/or a wax for surface protection.

Removing tyre ‘sling’, exhaust carbon or petroleum gas stains from paintwork- use a d-Limonene based (citrus) cleaner 3M Citrus Cleaner Adhesive Remover Spray, ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep or paint cleaner (P21S Paintwork Cleaner or, Klasse All-In-One)

Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) 

[Paintless dent repair (PDR), also known as "Paintless dent removal", is a collection of techniques for removing minor dents and dings from the body of a motor vehicle. A wide range of damage can be repaired using PDR; however, usually if there is paint damage, PDR may be unsuitable.

The most common practical use for PDR is the repair of hail damage, door dings, minor body creases, and minor bumper indentations. The techniques can also be applied to help prepare the damaged panel for paint. Such applications are referred to as "push to paint", or "push for paint".] 1

Limiting factors for a successful repair using PDR include the flexibility of the paint, and the amount the metal has been stretched by the damage incurred. Hence, often extremely sharp dents and creases may not be repairable - at least not without painting afterwards.

PDR is much cheaper than traditional repair methods and is superior most of the time for many reasons.  It keeps the factory paint intact and for the most part, the car does not have to be disassembled in a major way that can also cause damage. It is also available in most major cities.  However, not all paint less dent repair companies are equal.  Like any job requiring a lot of skill there are some who are good, some that are bad and those who excel at this sort of work.

 I would suggest working with someone recommended by a detail company as detail companies are used to having picky customers who require this sort of service who don't tolerate bad work.

The object of removing a dent is by pushing the metal from inside the panel. What you need to watch for is stretching; this occurs when they push too hard.

Also make sure they do not drill into any panel, as it will cause future rust. No Bondo or other fillers should be used. If a Paintless repair is carried out on a hood they must pay special attention to its reinforcement.

Glue and Pull- a good tech will use a combination of traditional tools as well as glue pulling tools to repair your car. a plastic tab with an access hole in the centre is glued on to the panel and then pulled with a slide hammer, any area's that are too high are then very carefully tapped down.

Drilling holes into the inner structure isn't allowed under any manufacture's and/or I-CAR guidelines and some insurance companies have a no drill policy; meaning that the technicians must not drill to gain access to repair the dents. It's a safety issue and therefore isn't a good idea. Many of these inner panels have crush points that are intentionally designed to deflect energy away from the occupants, and even a small drilled hole can negatively affect this from happening.

And it can also affect the OEM corrosion warranty; some rust protection application centres have been sued for drilling access holes to apply rust protection.

Paintless dent repair does have limitations, insofar as it cannot perform miracles.  It cannot take out huge dents or straighten bent frames. Some dents behind door intrusion beams or heavy unibody reinforcement areas where the reinforcement is bonded or welded to the outside skin are not possible to with this method. It must be possible to reach the backside of the dent.  Long handled and curved tools help, sometimes small holes need to be drilled but not every dent is accessible. I'd say 95% of dents can be reached without drilling though. 

Sometimes a repainted car with too thick or poorly prepped paint can have the paint crack while a repair is being made. Select an operative with experience as in most things you get what you pay for so check pest repairs and ask for references for past clients

It would take approx. six months’ practice to become proficient and the tools are a large initial outlay (probably too large for an enthusiast detailer) But if you could find enough of this type of work it’s a great 'up-sell' to offer clients. I would suggest working with someone recommended by a detail company, as these companies are used to having picky customers who require this sort of service who don't tolerate bad work.

Online Access to Videos and Guides - http://www.pdrsecrets.com/blog/half-off/

Ron Harris-http://www.concoursautosalon.com
San Antonio Auto Detailing and Paintless Dent Repair Professionals

Rust Spots 

Very small brown ‘pinholes’ or ‘rock chips’, they are usually caused by road grit that has penetrated the paint film surface and moisture / acid rain has produced rust.

         Correction- sand or compound with 1200 or finer grit paper to remove, use a rust inhibitor product Rejex CorrosionX, use chip repair paint and then polish to restore gloss.

Removing Latex Paint Overspray 

1.      D-limonene based (citrus) based detergents (P21S Total Auto Wash) may help; be sure to allow plenty of dwell time.

2.      Solvents; dwell time is important, start mild with (3M™ Adhesive and Wax Remover or DuPont Prep Sol 3919

3.      Detailers clay (Auto magic’s Magic Clay) both red and blue grades

4.      Plastic razor blade to mechanically 'chip' the overspray

5.      A combination of the plastic blade or detailers clay and a solvent, be patient and work small areas when practical.

6.      The painted surfaces are frequently easier than anticipated, however the rubber and vinyl trim pieces may take more time / patience.

Removing Paint Overspray 

Dampen but do not soak a terry cloth towel with lacquer thinner (do not use mineral spirits or turpentine) and then apply lacquer thinner to the paint overspray.

Wipe the paint overspray from the vehicle using a terry cloth and then dry the surface using clean dry 100% cotton towels. Do not leave lacquer thinner on the car's finish for longer than necessary as this may damage the clear coat. Use with caution on repainted vehicles

For extensive paint overspray removal

·         Wet-sand using 2000 grit finishing paper

·         Meguiar’s M105 and a SurBuf R Series pad

·         Meguiar’s M205 and a Lake Country (LC) Green foam pad

Paint overspray ‘spots’ – use detailer’s clay

An epoxy paint can be very difficult to remove and often when the "overspray" particles are removed, the solvent carrier /thinner system often etches the paint surface.

Removing Oil 

Soak the area with mineral spirits, then use a d-Limonene based (citrus) safe solvent all-purpose cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) once the mineral spirits have broken down the oil, the all-purpose cleaner will create an emulsification of the oils, hose the area and then wash area with a car wash concentrate.

Removing dried -on rubber  

Use a safe solvent to remove burned on rubber; that does not contain any harmful components (heptane or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents; Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover, Stoner™ Tarminator, or Wurth Spray Solvent that simply emulsifies and dissolves the rubber, then use a plastic razor blade to remove any hard debris.

If this does not remove the rubber try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer, which looks and feels like rubber.  3M Stripe and Decal Remover

Removing dried -on Silicone 

Standard RTV silicone (caulking) sealant can sometimes be removed by rubbing with your fingers or try a heat gun and a plastic ‘razor blade’. Dependent upon how long it’s been on the paint surface and how much heat it’s been subjected too, you might want to try an Eraser Wheel (Wurth P/T # 058591) 3.5-inch x 5/8-inch eraser wheel fits on (a slow speed, 3,500) machine

Removing (Stripping) Paint

Chemical paint stripper is the fastest way to remove paint, or at least to get the most material off quickly. It also allows you to more gently (less scratching) sand the remaining film off the bare metal. Stripper is easily washed off and neutralized (follow directions on container) and bare metal can be coated with metal prep (phosphoric acid).

Dry paint stripping (Plastic media) one of the processes involves blasting with a special plastic granule that was developed for use on military aircraft. This material will remove paint, glue, and light rust deposits and many under seals but will not generally remove body seam sealers without concerted effort and not at all in the case of the very latest products.

The advantages of using this plastic media over other materials are numerous. The material has a low mass, thus allowing low air pressure to be used in the blasting process. This minimizes the kinetic energy involved and consequently the amount of heat generated, which is the primary cause of damage or distortion to the material being stripped. This is especially important when working on light metals and alloys such as aluminium or on composites such as glass fibre or carbon laminates

Road Paint (Traffic Lane Paint)

Is a pigmented resin system, very high in solids with a colour aggregate and is more like an adhesive than paint; it contains silica (glass) micro beads that help reflect light, however they can cause scratches if you use mechanical removal.

       Correction / Removal - unlike most water-based citrus cleaners that are designed to lift and carry dirt, XENIT is formulated to break down the complex molecules found in sticky materials. Use in conjunction with detailer’s clay or a plastic razor blade.

Alternative - 3M Eraser Wheel Detailer’s Clay or try wet-sanding with 2000 - 2500 grit finishing paper and a Unigrit block.

For heavy accumulations or paint that has dried for several days on the vehicles paint surface, apply a liberal coating of Vaseline to the dried traffic paint and allow to remain overnight and then pressure wash. This should remove most of the traffic paint. If not, repeat the procedure.

Road Paint Remover (wipes) – TOTL; Lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint. Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously. Use firm pressure and a lot of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application.

 Once you have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo and a spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use on paint that is less than 90 days old) The same technique can be used for old tar removal.

Removing Road Salt from Paintwork

Corrosion [: Water has a low electrical conductivity, but this increases significantly with the dissolution of a small amount of ionic material such as sodium chloride.  Sodium chloride CI and water H₂O produce oxides, which cause corrosion]

            ValuGard Decontamination System (B) alkaline neutralizer (pH 1.0) that is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline road salt / water solution deposits, pH 9.0 used for freezing point depression in a sprayed brine solution (often mixed with grit / sand for tyre adhesion) and safely dissolves salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Apply to a clean and freshly rinsed surface. Allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove contaminants.

All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product. Protect paint surface with a synthetic polymer sealant Collinite's Insulation Wax # 845 or Finish Kare FK1000P (see also Undercarriage Care and Road Salt)

Removing Surface (dry) Dust

The best known brand (California Car Duster) it can be used to remove pollen or light dust without causing scratches hold at the end of the 21-inch handle and  applying very little surface pressure with the duster, dusting with long strokes in one direction only, the dust is collected by paraffin wax and held in the cotton fibres (the same way a micro fibre cloth works (but without the paraffin wax) Shake the duster after each pass to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.

It important to use the duster only for the removal of dry surface dust, if the vehicle has oily road film, road tar, damp pollen or dust, etc. the vehicle surface should be washed (or use Optimum No Rinse (ONR) rinse less wash)

Dust build-up-with low humidity conditions friction on the paint surface will cause static electricity (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Micro fibre) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface.

Rinsing the surface with water or applying a quick detailer (QD) or use the CCD as stated above to remove dust. When the duster is first purchased it should be wrapped in newspaper (48 hours) to remove any excess paraffin wax, the duster should not be washed, the dirtier it gets the better it works (I've been using mine now for almost five years without it being washed) http://www.calcarduster.com/faq.asp

          Don’t use – on a wet surface (even condensation) as this will cause streaking, or soon after driving; as a hot surface will also cause streaking

Alternative Product-Dust build-up-with low humidity conditions and friction on the paint surface will cause static electricity (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Micro fibre) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface. Unlike most other car dusters which are wax covered cotton fibres, the GP Wool Duster is an all-wool Australian pelt. Rather than relying on surface tension to hold on to dust, our wool duster simply uses static charges, created by twirling the duster in your hands, to safely lift dust from the surface. Almost no surface pressure is necessary to make it 100% effective. GP Australian Wool Duster

Rubber Tyre Marks on Surface

Tyre debris either thrown up from the road or track surface leaves small smudges from the collision between rubber and paint

Correction - Use a safe solvent (3M™ Prep Solvent-70 (#08983) or3M™ Panel Wipes (#4567) to remove burned on rubber; that does not contain any harmful components (heptane or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents; Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover, Stoner™ Tarminator, or Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner that simply emulsifies and dissolves the rubber, then use a plastic razor blade to remove debris.

If this does not remove the rubber try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer, which looks and feels like rubber.  3M Stripe and Decal Remover

Radiation Damage

Ultra violet Radiation is known to contribute to the chemical modification of exposed paint surfaces resulting in loss of gloss, colour change, chalking, flaking and eventually destruction of the clear coat paint film by oxidation.

Ultra violet protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer (stabilizers) being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc.) it is also water miscible, so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)

When radiation is absorbed, it starts to break (cleave) weak chemical bonds, which leads to photochemical degradation (bleaching, (fading), discoloration, chalking, brittleness and cracking) all indications of UV deterioration. The paint top surface loses its reflective ability and becomes ‘chalky’; this is a sign that the structural integrity (mechanical strength) of the paints matrix has become compromised.

The bond cleavages resulting from UV absorption cause the formation of “radicals.” Each free radical can trigger a chain of reactions (in the presence of air), leading to more bond cleavages and destruction. These oxidising chain reactions require no further UV exposure, just the presence of air

Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process, which leads to bleaching (fading), discoloration, chalking, brittleness and cracking - all indications of UV deterioration. Once a paint surface structural integrity is compromised like this it usually means the paint requires replacement (re-painting)

1.      UV-A radiation dries out the binder system causing structural failure; it will dry the resin in paint; leading to oxidation. A paint surface will often show cracking as the resin binder dries out the paint draws up on itself forming ‘crow’s feet’. It will also dry out the oils and plasticizers in vinyl and other materials and may lead to structural damage (this is especially relevant to open top convertibles)

2.      UV-B radiation exposure leads to gloss and colour instability (photosynthesis or photo-oxidation) and surface fading stains. But before UV light can cause harm, it must first be absorbed. If it is not turned into heat or transferred to a nearby stabilizer molecule called a quencher, it breaks weak chemical bonds. This is the beginning of UV damage. Oxidation really amounts to a weakening of the resins that bind paint, which results in the micro-pores becoming exposed and a larger area of paint becomes oxidized.

The paint top surface loses its reflective ability and becomes ‘chalky’; this is a sign that the structural integrity (mechanical strength) of the paints matrix has become compromised.

Some materials absorb UV radiation more readily than other materials. Materials that readily absorb (UV-B) radiation are quickly damaged...rubber, vinyl’s, gel coat fiberglass, and many other plastics.

Superglue (See Cyanoacrylate)

'Soft’ (refinished) paint

 By lowering the OEM paint oven temperature and cycle time of the clear coat reduces (VOC), which creates a soft or sometimes sticky clear coat. This could also be due to not using the correct reducers / hardeners for the temperature the paint is to be sprayed and cured at, or the painter uses an incorrect mixture for a three part clear or there are contaminants on the paint surface or could be silicon contamination on the paint film or a strong solvent 'softening' or causing the paint to be sticky

       Correction detailing - use a chemical paint cleaner (Prep Sol or Hi-Temp Silicone Remover) to remove silicone. Use very soft foam (LC Black finishing pad) and a mildly aggressive polish (Menzerna SF 4000 – Super Finish (PO106FA) as this type of ‘paint’ easily shows surface marring etc.

Some less dense (soft) paint will not respond to the elliptical action of an orbital polisher. This is due in part to the amount of oxidization and the paints density characteristics. The planning motion that is inherent in a rotary polisher may suit soft paint and along with a stiffer, open celled pad can give the polish residue (oxidation and polish reside) a place to go and you may be able to achieve a higher quality finish.

CeramiClear - after the CeramiClear top coat is sprayed, the nano particles of Fumed Silica (SiO2), which are synthetically engineered, migrate to the upper 0.5 Mils as it is curing. If this is removed you will encounter a ‘soft’ layer of paint, which will react very differently from the supper dense (hard) CeramiClear paint

Soft or Sticky clear coat

Some paints (isocyanate free paint formula, a clear coat with low heat and abrasion resistance, paint that has not sufficiently outgassed or has insufficient hardeners, hence ‘soft’) this type of paint heats up very quickly causing the polish surface lubrication to dry out, which causes an increase in surface resistance, the pad feels like its dragging and can skip, as the polish abrasives stick to the paint

Correction - use a firm pad that has little surface resistance, a LC Purple Foamed Wool and Menzerna PO 203S or PO 106 FF polish with very light surface pressure.  You could also add more surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime) alternatively apply polish with a PC orbital polisher #4-5.

(Nissan) Scratch Shield Paint

Repairs fine scratches, restoring painted surfaces close to their original state anywhere from one day to one week. Nissan paints by using a special highly elastic resin that has been combined with a conventional clear coat to increase the paint's flexibility. This has also increased its strength by raising the resin density. Contains a self-healing, heat-activated, resin-compound that expands to fill fine scratches,

The paint does not self-repair if scratches are deep enough to sever the bonds within the clear coat or if the clear coat has been peeled off. The amount of time required for self-repair depends on the surrounding temperature and the depth of the scratch. In some cases, restoration may take up to one week.

Be cognizant that any friction heat generated from polishing will cause the elastic resin coating to swell, which will temporarily fill the defects, but when it cools down, the damage will reappear

Correction - this type of paint heats up very quickly causing the polish surface lubrication to dry out, which causes an increase in surface resistance, the pad feels like its dragging and can skip, as the polish abrasives stick to the paint.

Using a random orbital polisher and Optimum Polymer Technologies - polishing and cutting pads, their low profile, reticulated, open-cell foam interface backing to disperse heat and Menzerna PF 2500 - Power Finish Initial speed #2 to spread and evenly distribute polish on the pad, speed 4-5 using medium- heavy pressure followed by SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish speed #3 using medium- light pressure and/or add surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime)

 Strikethrough (Paint burn) 

It should go without saying that you need proper lighting available when you’re polishing. Always work in good lighting conditions, and frequently check your work.  Without it you may polish through (breakthrough) paint surface or friction ‘burn’ the paint by polishing in one area for too long.

Basically when friction heat (kinetic force) has compromised the clear coat and exposed the base coat. Paint often looks a slightly lighter colour; it’s usually concentrated on a small area or ‘spot ‘You will also be able to see a non-glossy patch (base coat) where the clear has been removed with the edges of the remaining clear coat being visible.

Areas of risk- bumpers, as they don’t conduct heat like metal panels, edges and seams and the paint in these areas is generally thin (masking tape is good insurance) Applying pressure and holding the polisher stationary for too long will cause friction heat to be concentrated, especially with a foam pad. Clear coat provides both ultra violet (UV) radiation and the paint systems protection. Repair any breaches in the clear coat system otherwise you risk the paint delaminating, which will then require repainting

           Correction- replace the missing clear coat and ‘blend to match. Any areas that have been subjected to strike-through need to have another application of base coat sprayed to cover the problem, and then clear coat can be applied to provide UV protection.

The problem is that the new base will tend to lift the edge of the clear around the strike-through spot so you need to seal the gap in the clear coat before you apply more base coat. Seal the spot by using clear coat applied first and allow it to harden sand using finishing paper and then apply more base coat and finally clear coat the entire panel.

It takes some experience to blend the clear coat and a novice painter can cause additional problems until gaining the experience needed to do it properly. Spot blending clear coat is not something an inexperienced painter should attempt.

Solvent Pop

[Blisters on the paint surface caused by trapped solvents in the topcoats or primer-surfaces, a situation which is further aggravated by force drying or uneven heating] DuPont website

Solvent pop can also be created if you heat the surface before the paint flashes a little. Don't put the new paint into the sun or use heat lamps before it's dry. That looks like little bumps with hollow spots in the centre. They will become very apparent when you sand or polish as that hollow spot will fill up with white dust.

Correction- If damage is extensive and severe; paint must be removed down to undercoat or metal, depending on depth of blisters; then refinish. In less severe cases, sand until smooth, resurface and refinish] DuPont website

Skunk

Chemically it’s an organic chemical containing sulfhydryl (a mixture of sulfur-containing chemicals such as methyl and butyl thiols traditionally called mercaptans), which are not water soluble.

To eliminate them and the odours they produce solubilize it (i.e. raise the pH from an acid to an alkaline) with an alkaline wash solution at which point it will become soluble and wash away.

Due to the chemical composition of the skunk spray, most household remedies are ineffective, with the exception of a peroxide formula or other remedies that break down the thiols.

Scratch Shield Clear Coat

Some paints (isocyanate free paint formula, a clear coat with low heat and abrasion resistance; this type of paint heats up very quickly causing the polish surface lubrication to dry out, which causes an increase in surface resistance, the pad feels like its dragging and can skip, as the polish abrasives stick to the paint

Correction - use a firmer pad that has lees surface resistance or an LC Purple Foamed Wool. Or try to add surface lubrication (Gloss- it Pad Prime) alternatively apply polish with an orbital polisher.

Transport (Microcrystalline) Wax

P21S Total Auto Wash or 3M Adhesive Remover both are safe solvents that are very effective for the removal of transport wax, a temporary protective transport Microcrystalline or co-polymer wax (See also Cosmoline)

Urethane Wave 

This is something in addition to orange peel when layering thick clear coats for custom paint jobs and show cars. Painters will spray 3-4 coats of clear, block it down with 400-600 grit, and then spray a final flow coat. (See also Orange Peel)

Correction - this would require block sanding to flatten urethane wave.

Tire Dressing Overspray (Sling)

As you drive the tyres rotate and the inertia can cause tyre dressing to ‘sling’. Tyre manufacturers use carbon black to protect them against ultra violet radiation. Using a dimethyl solvent-based dressing (usually a clear greasy liquid) emulsifies it, if this contaminated dressing comes in contact with your paint and if it dries it will it will dye / cause a stain; it’s especially noticeable on light coloured and can irreparably stain the paint light colours and single stage paints.

Remedy- This can be caused by (a) applying the product to an improperly cleaned surface, to which it cannot adhere too. The preparation of the surface is the cause of this problem not the product (b) and / or an excess of product, after the dressing has penetrated remove any excess.

Removal - use a d-Limonene based (citrus) cleaner 3M Citrus Cleaner Adhesive Remover Spray or ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep or paint cleaner P21S Paintwork Cleaner or, Klasse All-In-One, failing this use an abrasive polish / pad.

Unfortunately, sometimes the only permanent remedy is to remove the stained paint down to e-coat and re-paint

Water ‘Spots’

[A water spot is an area of dried mineral deposits left on a surface after being allowed to air dry. Water quality, specifically the amount and type of minerals in the local water supply as measured by the total suspended solids or TSS test and other mineral levels such as sodium level, has a big effect on how severe water spots can be,

If the surface can be rectified by chemical means, then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the surface.  If water spots are not washed away using normal car wash, they might be etched into the wax or surface. The next step would be to use a paint cleansing lotion or the cleaner wax indeed. Don’t use a pure carnauba product over the water spots as it has no ability to remove them and will seal them in. You can move to machine polishing as needed, but most the time newer water spots are removed with a chemical paint cleaner type product or distilled white vinegar

With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately

Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces of minerals left on the surface. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird Ca²⁺ and Mg²⁺ excrement or industrial fallout)

Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner

There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)

1. Stage I Corrosion

[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]

2. Stage II Corrosion

[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface (a concave circular mark) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]

Progressively using the least abrasive product first-

1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Optimum MTR or Duragloss 501)

2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules

5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface

6. For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8. Menzerna Power Finish (PO203S) - (M) this is a one-step scratch remover polish is formulated for CeramiClear or other ‘Hard’ paints. It will remove 2500 grit, cut 3.0-gloss 3.5, is formulated as a quick way to polish out light flaws and amplify the paint’s gloss. Use a primed Orange (mid-range, high density foam (60 PPI) medium abrasive cutting action LC CCS foam pad 1200 RPM

9. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper

Due to the reactivity of the calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) be cognizant that there are no products that offer complete protection; however, either of these products will offer resistance to water marks, just remember; they are a sacrificial polymer waxes- Finish Kare FK 1000P Synthetic wax or Collinite 476S Super Doublecoat

Always be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you don’t know.

It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable information sources. I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope the article are informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.

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