Basic Cleaning Requirements
Three
types of energy are required;
1. Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner
2. Mechanical energy
(agitation) provided by machine or hand
3. Thermal energy
-provided by warm or hot water.
Heated water breaks down
water-soluble soiling faster as it reduces overall chemical usage because it
reduces the surface tension. Heat also acts as a catalyst (Reactivity) promoting quicker
reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing remain in place
time.
Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in soil, agitation or
hand rubbing helps pull the soil free, these types of energy interact and
should be in proper balance.
Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before
using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working
on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible
with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always
test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain
the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the
material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic
chemistry.
Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the
surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective
products.
Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions
recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read
the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic
idea of contents, pH levels etc.
A pH scale 0 –
14 with pH 7 being neutral; pH controlled means it follows the major automotive
manufacturer’s guidelines for exterior cleaners; the control limit being pH
12.0<. An acidic soil can be neutralized with an alkaline solution, this is
why most so-called all-purpose cleaners (APC) are alkaline. An acidic based
cleaner will counteract alkaline contamination.
Most cleaner’s contain
detergents and surfactants and are acid or alkaline-based to solve a specific cleaning
problem. There are also other things to consider besides its pH value when
choosing a cleaner
When spraying
any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small area first
(test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the
surface.
Providing the
cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected
cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white
micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot
frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure. Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric's colour or texture.
Stains
For the safe removal of stains; always
use the least invasive product first, before stepping up to something stronger.
The first
thing you should do upon discovering a stain is to act immediately. Don’t wait
because heat and/or time will just cause the stain to set in deeper, resist the
urge to rub it in this will make it much harder to remove. Be patient, some
stains respond slowly, all stains and spills cannot be removed due to
differences in fibres, dyes, construction, finishes, composition etc., it would
also depend on the length of time the stain has remained on the article, etc.
Some stains will require professional treatment.
Before deciding upon
treatment, you should first access what ‘type’ of stain it is, before a stain
can be removed the surface tension that bonds it must be released, then the
stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed.
Use a suitable (dependent
upon the type of stain) 20% stain
remover with in a solution of and 80 percent distilled water, or shaving cream
to remove stains from cloth seats. Spray a small amount of the solution onto
the stain. Wait for a few minutes, and then scrub the stained area with a soft
bristle brush or old toothbrush. Blot the area with a soft clean cloth
Diagnosis is the key, not
guess work. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area
first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH
of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal
requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.
Depending on the pH of the
product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you
apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a chemical / cleaner
that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing
any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment.
Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a
basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.
Classifying stains-
a) Organic stains- these include proteins and
fats, body oils, mould yeast, bacteria, bugs and carbohydrates. Organic soil is
cleaned with an alkaline (pH 8+).Most of the stains found in
the vehicle interior are of an organic nature and require an alkaline type
cleaner. Some organic stains (i.e. milk, blood, vomit, urine) should be removed
with an enzyme type cleaner and a disinfectant applied to the area
b) Non-Organic stains- mostly found on the
exterior of the vehicle, hard water scale (calcium) lime deposits, Road tar,
grease and oil film, and require an acid (pH 6 or less) type
cleaner.
c) Petroleum soils - substances that do not
contain water, nor are they miscible, these soil types include, motor oils, and
crease and road tar, and require a petroleum-based solvent type cleaner.
Stain
Types-
a) Water Soluble Stains- These stains can be
dissolved in cool water or loosened with water based cleaner, coffee; soft
drinks, cocoa and chocolate are good examples.
b) Oil soluble stains- These are stains that are
comprised of oily or greasy substances, which include cooking, oil from fried
foods and suntan oil.
c) Combination Stains- These stains contain both
water based and oil-soluble properties. Cleaning these stains require treatment
with a petroleum solvent followed by water based cleaning solution.
d) Unidentifiable Stains- Sometimes stains cannot be
identified. Treat these stains like a combination stain. Clean with a petroleum
solvent followed by water based cleaner.
As can be seen with the
above lists an all-purpose cleaner (APC) will probably not clean stains effectively
(Most are butyl based, which is a huge known carcinogen) With all cleaning
products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to
ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of
the product is suitable for the material.
Stain removal requires some
knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and always select a
chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to
use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your
vehicle or the environment. (See
also Vehicle Interior Detailing and Solvents)
Before using a cleaning
product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they
are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the
material and will not damage it.
Diagnosis is the key, not
guess work. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area
first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH
of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal
requires some knowledge of basic chemistry. Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc.
Always select a chemical /
cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by
observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle
or the environment
All Purpose Cleaner (APC)
As you can see from the
above list the so-called ‘all-purpose cleaner’ (APC) cannot remove all stains, usually
a high pH (6.0+) it’s better to use a specific stain remover than to
compromise. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions
recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment
Many well-intentioned
detailers use the so-called all-purpose cleaning (APC) chemical for detailing.
Using a product like Simple Green or a degreaser to clean everything from
wheels to carpets is both dangerous and harmful to the materials used for
modern automobile materials. A safer alternate is a Limonene (citrus-based)
solvent, they are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use. There
is no such thing as a one size fits all type chemical cleaner, regardless of
what a car care product vendor would have you believe.
Most detailing chemicals are
formulated to remove specific stains and a little knowledge of their pH and
chemical content will help in their correct selection and use; the most common
types of chemicals include surfactants, solvents, wetting agents, Saponifiers
and Chelators (See also
article on “Basic soap and Detergent Chemistry)
Degreasers
There has been a recent
increase in interest in strong, low VOC degreasers. In general degreasing
cleaners use three mechanisms for breaking down and removing grease and / or
oil (1) dissolving the grease with a solvent ( 2)
encapsulating the oils with detergents so that they can be washed away with
water and (3) Chemically
changing the oils so that they can be washed away with water. Most degreasers
use a combination of all three of these techniques (see relevant MSDS).
They are usually an aqueous
blend of soaps, synthetic detergent, solvents and inorganic alkaline builders,
with a small amount of Sodium hydroxide, which help turn the oils to be cleaned
into soap. This is a major reason why degreasers are so caustic. Since the user
is going to be cleaning a lot of grease and oil, the formulator puts a lot of
extra caustic into the cleaner to break down the grease and oil into soap. Use
a degreaser highly diluted as a ‘spot’
cleaner and then polish as it will ‘dull the surface and then replace
protection
A safer alternate is a Limonene
(citrus-based) solvent, they are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and
safe to use so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment
Stain Removal
Some stains can be removed, some
cannot. Those that resist all efforts of removal are usually not stains at all.
They are actually areas that have been dyed. Example: Fruit drinks contain
chemical dye, Coffee was once used to colour fabric and requires a
professional, concentrated stain remover.
Grease, tar and oil stains
require strong degreasers to be completely removed from thick carpet and velour
upholstery.
Over the counter products do not have the chemical concentration
necessary for this job. A thorough stain removal / cleaning process would
require the following; the correct chemical cleaner, heat, agitation and water
to act as a carrier system and as a final rinse.
With all cleaning products
(especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it
won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the
product is suitable for the material
Before cleaning a stain ascertain the
material and try detergent and water before using a specific cleaner. Start with a 10:1 solution and decrease dilution
as necessary; 303™ Spot & Stain Remover, P21S® Total Auto Wash, Iz einszett
Vinyl-Rubber Care' between these cleaners you should be able to
remove 99% of stains occurring in a vehicle fabrics and around the vehicle
interior. Once fabric is clean apply a fabric protection. 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard and UV
Protection, 303™ Aerospace Protectant to all surfaces
Specific fabric stains-
Spot Removal: Water based spot remover effective on
oil and water based stains such as blood, soft drinks, light grease, oil, tar,
coffee, tea, floor finishes, copier toner, spills, dirt, grime and more. TOTL
a) Blood- remove
the stain as soon as possible; if it sets it will be more difficult to remove.
Once the stain has been removed the area should also be treated with a
disinfectant (Lysol™ Disinfectant). Take all necessary precautions when dealing
with blood (latex cloves, and etc.) and when disposing of blood stained items.
Wipe down the area with a
damp micro fibre towel and then remove blood stains using a 2:1 solution cold
distilled water / Hydrogen peroxide, this will eliminate the stain and provide
a disinfectant.
Finally rinse the area with
a damp micro fibre towel. Take all necessary precautions when dealing with
bodily fluid stains (latex cloves and etc.) and when disposing of soiled
items.
b) Bituminous Asphalt Stain Removal-
A solvent (Stoner™
Tarminator) can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based
products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres,
carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protect rant
after use. Something else you can try is isopropyl alcohol (IPA) using a sponge
or towels gently blot until the stain is lifted. Blot again with cool water to
rinse. Dry with a thick towel.
A dry cleaning solvent will
also remove asphalt, as with the alcohol, pour onto a sponge or cloth and blot.
Keep blotting until the stain is lifted and then blot with cool water until all
traces of the chemical is removed; blot dry with a thick towel.
c) Organic Stains
NOT a masking agent; it
contains no enzymes or harsh chemicals. It is the only neutralizer that works
for all types of odours. It is the only formula you can apply directly to your
pet's skin, or use in an enclosed area. X-O Cleaner & Odor
Neutralizer is made from essential oils harvested from plant material
(herbs, shrubs and trees). The natural ingredients provide a level of
effectiveness and safety not found in regular odour removal products – TOTL
d) Protein Stain
Remover
Protein Stain Remover HT-67 will
remove blood, urine pet, and food stains, but what makes it unique is its
formulation. The stain remover is a highly concentrated, biodegradable powder
that is designed to be mixed with an all-purpose cleaner (i.e. P21S® Total Auto
Wash) - TOTL
Application - Mix
1/4 cup to a gallon diluted, HT-49. Spray on the stained area and let set for a
few minutes. Scrub with a carpet or upholstery brush. Spray and rinse with
water, allow to dry and then vacuum.
e) Pet stains and odours- Enzyme is specially formulated using enzyme action to
eliminate odours caused by pet urine or vomit to digest the stains and odours
left behind by pet urine and faeces. (PETsMART)
f) Soft drink – wipe
with a damp 100% cotton towel immediately, if the sugars are allowed to
caramelize the stain may be impossible to remover. Use a ‘spot’ cleaner (303™ Spot & Stain Remover) or
a Limonene (citrus-based) solvent (P21S®
Total Auto Wash)
g) Red
Stains- The cleaning challenge will be the
removal of the food colouring (Allura Red AC, E129) Try to find out the
source of the stain (Koolaid, Gatorade, Red wine, etc.) It is important to know
the source as many old coffee or tea stains can look like red dye stains and
many stains if treated improperly can "set" and then be a major task
to remove
Removing red stains is one
of the toughest to remove because most carpet cleaners or spot removers will
not eliminate them. Usually a red food dye is used and if spilled on fabric or
upholstery it will dye it.
(a)
Soak the area with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2
teaspoon liquid fabric detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 30 minutes.
Rinse well and allow to dry
For persistent stain:
Soak in a solution of 1
quart warm distilled water and 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar for 1 hour.
Rinse well and allow to dry.
If stain is set:
Apply isopropyl alcohol to
the area and tamp (a method of bringing a brush down with light strokes on
stained durable fabrics and materials).
As stain loosens, blot
liquid and stain with absorbent pad. Keep both the stain and pad moist with
alcohol and change pad as it picks up stain. Rinse well and allow to dry
(b)
Use Red Stain Remover (TOTL) is a unique formulation that
removes super tough red stains. Spray the solution on the stain and agitated
with a brush to make sure it has penetrated the fibre. Allow it to sit a few
minutes to insure the chemical "action" dissolves the dye.
Alternative
process - Place a dry towel over the area and press with a hot iron, as
the heat draws the dye to the towel so it can be lifted from the fabric
Either process may take a
couple of applications especially if stain is old, or has been allowed to set
for some time. Follow with a thorough by hand-cleaning using Woolite®
Heavy Traffic Carpet Cleaner, or with a carpet extractor. Once
carpet is thoroughly dry protect it from future stains (using 303 Fabric
Protector)
h) Road Paint / Asphalt Remover- lay the smooth side of the wipe over the contamination
to saturate the surface. Let it sit for about one minute to soften the paint.
Use the textured side of a new wipe and rub vigorously.
Use firm pressure and a lot
of action. Particularly difficult cases may take a second application. Once you
have removed the road paint, wash off the chemical with shampoo or glass
cleaner. A quick spot polish should bring back the original shine. (Do not use
on paint jobs less than 90 days old)The same technique can be used for old tar
removal. If the first application doesn't remove it completely, apply a new
wipe and repeat the process.
i) Road Salt Stains -Use a stiff brush to
dislodge any loose road salt and then vacuum, spray the area with a carpet
cleaner and let it soak in, rinse with plenty of water and repeat until most of
the stain has been lifted. Finally clean carpets by spraying the area with a
carpet shampoo rinse and then remove with a carpet extractor.
(Dry) Salt is inert but be
aware that once you add water ( by meting the snow / ice ) to salt it becomes
alkaline (corrosive) take care to dry the affected area thoroughly after the
salt has been removed and neutralize it with an mild acid (vinegar) Spray
vinegar, agitate, allow to remain in place and then use an extractor. Actually,
any mildly acidic product should neutralize alkaline salt crystals
j) Rust Stains- Removing Rust Stains
Remove as much
of the rust stain as possible before applying a treatment.
·
Apply
a Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner P21S Total Auto Wash onto the stain so that
the spot is thoroughly saturated.
·
Sprinkle
salt onto TAW.
·
Allow
the salt and Limonene to react with the stain for 24 hours.
·
Refresh
the TAW to keep the spot damp.
·
Blot
the stain (do not rub, as this may damage the fibres).
·
Thoroughly
rinse the spot with clean water.
·
Repeat
as necessary.
k)
Wax (candle or crayon)-
to remove melted wax from carpeting, place an absorbent paper towel folded 4-5
times over the wax and with a hot iron run it back and forth on the towel
(renewing as required) this will re-liquefy the wax and the towel will absorb
it. Repeat as necessary.
l)
Water Marks (Browning)
Clean and
extract as normal. Follow with a sprayed mist of a 'souring agent' to prevent
browning, colour bleed and those awful 'water marks'. Extract with plain water
(no detergent). Wait to dry. Evaluate. (Color Stabilizer and Souring Agent, Pro's Choice)
Mould (Mold)
Stachybotrys Chartarum [: fungi that
grow in the form of multi- cellular filaments, called hyphae]
[Many moulds can begin growing at 4 °C (39 °F), the temperature
within a typical refrigerator, or less. When conditions do not enable growth,
moulds may remain alive in a dormant state depending on the species, within a
large range of temperatures before they die. The many different meld species
vary enormously in their tolerance to temperature and humidity extremes.
Certain moulds can survive harsh conditions such as the snow-covered soils of
Antarctica, refrigeration, highly acidic solvents, and even petroleum products
such as jet fuel. Xerophilic moulds use the humidity in the air as their only
water source; other moulds need more moisture. Mold has a musty odor.]
Without identifying and
eliminating the source of the mould you can't get rid of it, there are many
Counteractant type products that mask odours; what you need to do is remove and
clean and thoroughly dry the whole area; carpets, upholstery (inc. foam and etc.)
that is affected, including the headliner and metal floor pan (don’t forget to
clean/replace the cabin air filter).
Just like mould and mildew
contamination in other areas, you cannot wash or shampoo it away. This only
exasperates the problem. Mould is a form of fungus which forms anywhere there’s
moisture trapped in the air, and is spread by releasing millions of tiny spores
into the air. You cannot see the spores but you may be able to see moulds,
grey, green or black in colour, growing on damp surfaces.
Dirt and moisture are essential to mildew
propagation, which is very difficult to eradicate as mould uses enzymes to
digest nutrients from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material
and also down into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular
pattern. Mould / mildew needs to be neutralized as it will not dissipate
without treatment as the spores are still present and moisture will regenerate
them
There are hundreds of
thousands of types of mould, but only about ten types cause health problems,
commonly sinusitis, bronchitis and other respiratory conditions, as well as
allergies.
I would strongly recommend
you wear appropriate personal protection equipment (PPE) safety glasses,
respirators; etc. inhalation of mould could be very detrimental to your health
and can cause an allergic reaction
There are many
Counteractants products that only mask odours; what you need to do is remove
and clean and disinfect the whole area; carpets, upholstery (including the
upholstery foam and etc.) that is affected, including the headliner and metal
floor pan. Don’t forget to clean/replace the cabin air filter.
Remove the seats and
thoroughly clean the carpet with a carpet cleaner and a disinfectant. Then let
it air dry, or use a heater to ensure that they are completely dry. To
neutralize mould use 10:1 Distiller water / (non-chlorine) bleach solution, use
a syringe to inject solution into seating foam, you may need to remove and
replace the carpet padding.
Sporicidin® Enzyme Mold Stain Cleaner - concentrate is a blend of enzymes in a
low foaming solution formulated to loosen and remove dried debris, protein,
blood and mucin deposits. It effectively cleans both natural and synthetic
fibres that have been soiled with organic and inorganic debris. Ideal for use
as a pre-cleaner for mould remediation, and restoration applications
Removing Sand
Remove as soon as is
feasible as sand (abrasive) and saltwater (alkaline) will damage carpet fibres.
Use a stiff brush and / or beat carpet to dislodge any loose sand and then use
a brush to gently dislodge any grains caught in the fibres and then vacuum
carpets. Spray the area with a carpet cleaner and let it soak in, rinse with
plenty of water. Finally clean carpets by spraying the area with a carpet
shampoo rinse and then remove with a carpet extractor.
Different
cleaning methods to remove two different types of contaminants
General Rules for removing stains
a)
Organic soil; use an alkaline cleaners.
b)
Non-organic soil; remove with an acidic product.
c)
Petroleum soil; remove
with a petroleum-based cleaner.
1. Hot water and liquid soap
to remove water-soluble contaminants:
Dirt, Mud
Road Salt
2. Wax and Grease Remover to
remove solvent soluble contaminants:
Grease and Oil (Stoner’s
Tarminator)
Road Tar ditto
Tree Sap ditto
Bird Droppings ditto
Wax and Polishes (DuPont
PrepSol)
Silicone ditto
Always be
willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you
don’t know.
It is said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that
it includes access to a reliable information sources.
I would like to think that these articles become an asset to
anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry
experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope the
article are informative.
By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’
as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the
chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share
these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive comments
are always appreciated.
Copyright
© 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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