Primitive people, who lived during the
Ice Age some 500,000 years ago, were likely the first to use the skins of
animals to protect their bodies from the elements. Just as leather today is a
by-product, our ancient ancestor’s hunted animals primarily for food, but once
they had eaten the meat, they would clean the skin by scraping off the flesh
and then sling it over their shoulders as a crude form of a coat. They also
made footwear to protect their bare feet from rocks and thorns by taking
smaller pieces of animal skin made to fit loosely over the foot and tied at the
ankle with thin strips of skin or even vines.
The main problem that primitive man
encountered was that after a relatively short time the skins decayed and rotted
away. With his limited knowledge and experience, primitive man had no idea how
to preserve these hides. As centuries passed it was noticed that several things
could slow down the decay of leather. If the skins were stretched out and
allowed to dry in the sun, it made them stiff and hard but they lasted much
longer. Various oily substances were then rubbed into the skins to soften them.
As time passed, it was eventually discovered that the bark of certain trees
contained "tannin" or tannic acid which could be used to convert raw
skins into what we recognize today as leather.
It is quite hard to substantiate
chronologically at exactly what time this tanning method materialized, but the
famous "Iceman" dating from at least 5,000 BC discovered in the
Italian Alps several years ago, was clothed in very durable leather. Taking a look at the system and tools that were once used to
work leather. We immediately discover that from Palaeolithic times, almost to
the present day, the processes and tools remained almost unchanged, gaining
only in efficiency and comfort
Leather tanning is without a doubt one
of the oldest human activities. In the
beginning, skins obtained from hunting and livestock breeding could be used for
clothing or tents, but they became stiff at low temperatures, while they rotted
with heat. It was probably then that
attempts were made to render them more flexible and stronger by rubbing in
animal fats, the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian
texts and in Homers Iliad.
Another process was smoking, which almost
certainly started by accident, and which later became formaldehyde tanning, as
this substance is found in the vapours produced by burning green leaves and
branches. It was soon discovered that the rotting process could also be stopped
by drying, carried out by exposure to the sun or by the dehydrating action of
salt. Vegetable tanning was also known in very ancient times although it is not
clear how the tanning action of the tannin contained in the bark of some plants
(especially oak) was discovered. Another method known since the earliest times
is tanning, based on the use of alum, a mineral which is fairly widespread in
nature, particularly in volcanic areas.
These methods, which gradually became
more refined and efficient, allowed skins to be used in the ancient world and
continued to do so for century after century up to the present day. That the use of these techniques was
widespread is witnessed by numerous written documents and paintings as well as
archaeological finds. In Mesopotamia
between the fifth and the third millennium B.C., for example, the Sumerians
used skins for long dresses and diadems for ladies. The Assyrians used leather
for footwear but also for liquid containers and as inflated floats for
rafts.
The ancient Indian civilization
first processed the type of leather known as the "Morocco" today.
In recorded history, pieces of leather
dating from 1300 B.C. have been found in Egypt. Primitive societies in Europe,
Asia and North America all developed the technique of turning skins into leather
goods independently of one another. The Greeks were using leather garments in
the age of the Homeric heroes (circa 1200 B.C.) and the use of leather later
spread throughout the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages, the Chinese knew
the art of making leather.
North American Indians - also
had developed great skills in leather work, they took the ashes from their
campfires, put water on them and soaked the skins in this solution. In a few
weeks the hair and bits of flesh came off, leaving only the raw hide. This
tanning method, which used a solution of hemlock and oak bark, took about three
months to complete after which the leather was worked by hand to make the hide
soft and pliable.
The Making of Leather
The tanning of leather was used by
mankind in numerous geographical areas throughout the early periods of human
civilization; the first rudimental tanning process is mentioned in Assyrian
texts and in Homers Iliad. As certain leather characteristics began to emerge,
men realized leather could be used for many purposes besides footwear and
clothing. The uses and importance of leather increased greatly. For example, it
was discovered that water would keep fresh and cool in a leather bag. It was
also found suitable for such other items as tents, beds, rugs, carpet, armour
and harnesses.
An early Nubian predynastic grave has revealed a leather vessel at the head of the occupant where a pottery
one would normally be expected.
Ancient Egypt - one of the
most developed civilizations in this early period, valued leather as an
important item of trade. The Egyptians made leather, the historian, Strabo,
tells of an interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from
it. They also made sandals, belts, bags, shields, harness, cushions and chair
seats from tanned skins. Many of these items are in fact still made from
leather today. The Egyptians also achieved
considerable skill in processing leather, which they used for clothing (even
for gloves), tools, and arms or simply for ornament.
The historian, Strabo, tells of an
interesting use developed by Phoenicians who made water pipes from it. During Roman times, leather was widely used in
all the provinces of the empire, and more efficient tanning techniques were
introduced where they had not been developed locally.
The Hittites - one of the
oldest civilizations in Anatolia, which is known as the leather production
centre since the very old times, developed the art of tannery with aluminium
during their civilization's brightest period between the years 2000-1200 B.C.
These lands were rich in aluminium compounds and vegetal dressing pelts, and
that made it possible for the tannery process to be completed under perfect
conditions. During the excavations in Bogazkoy and Alisar, leather pieces were
found in a boy's grave belongs to year 2800 B.C. The Hittites used gallnut and
alum as dressing pelts in leather works.
Greeks and Romans - used
leather to make many different styles of sandals, boots and shoes, when the
Roman legions marched in conquest across Europe, they were well attired in
leather by wetting the leather and forming it to the warrior’s body forming
armour and leather capes. In fact, right up until the early 18th century, the
shield carried by the ordinary soldier was more likely to be made of leather
than metal.
The ancient Greeks refer to eight basic
guilds of artisans, which included both shoemakers and tanners. Although
tanning was originally a cottage trade, the Greeks had full-time professional
tanners who were at first employed in leather processing establishments and
became independent some time later. The barks of conifers and alder were used
as tannin sources and so were the peel of the pomegranate, sumac leaves,
walnut, cups of acorns as well as an Egyptian heritage - mimosa bark.
The Greeks were also familiar with alum
tanning and it appears they knew something about tanning with fish oil. The
types of leathers used were as diversified as the end users. Homer refers to the
use of cowhide, goat and weasel leather by the Greeks.
A tannery was uncovered amid the ruins
of Pompeii and the same equipment of the kind still in use for centuries
thereafter was found in it. The edict issued by the Roman emperor Diocletian
which fixed ceiling prices for all kinds of goods and services included skins
and leather prepared from goats, sheep, lambs, hyenas, deer, wild sheep,
wolves, martens, beaver, bears, jackals, seals, leopards and lions.
Under the
edict, cowhide was even classified according to groups and qualities. The
Romans used leather both for footwear and clothing and for making shields and
harnesses. A complete tannery in the
famous ash-preserved ruins of Pompeii was unearthed in 1873.
In the 8th century Spain, then under the
dominion of the Moors, we have the development of the production of
"Cordovan", thanks to important progress in tanning, a type of
leather famous throughout Europe for centuries. That skill in leather tanning
was not a prerogative of the western world as recounted by Marco Polo. In his
"Travels" he tells us that the Mongols used leather flasks, covers,
masks, and caps, decorated artistically, and it was him who coined the expression
"Russia Leather" to indicate a type with a characteristic fragrance.
A
considerable improvement in processing techniques occurred in the 12th century
with the result being that between then and the last century, there were no
substantial changes to tanning systems.
Even oil tanning was used to produce protective garments while tawing
was widespread although the results were not always satisfactory. Often,
finishing operations were carried out to improve the malleability of the
leather and improve its appearance, especially by dyeing. The products, though essentially practical,
also met decorative requirements.
Middle Ages
As we move into the middle ages, leather
continued to increase in popularity. By far the cleverest craftsmen with
leather in medieval times were the Arabs. The Moors developed remarkable skill
primarily in the preparation of beautiful goatskin still known as morocco
leather after the country of its origin. In fact the description 'genuine
morocco' is still very highly regarded today, particularly in the manufacture
of small leather goods.
Medieval England - ancient
Britons had many uses for leather from footwear, clothing and leather bags, to
articles of warfare. The hulls of the early boats, known as coracles, were also
covered in leather. Through the centuries leather manufacture expanded steadily
and by mediaeval times most towns and villages had a tannery, situated on the
local stream or river, which they used as a source of water for processing and
as a source of power for their water wheel driven machines
All kinds of containers were made from
leather, such as sword cases and dagger sheaths, box coverings and water
bottles, many of them beautifully decorated by punching and incising. Leather
was also a favourite medium for decorative art. Leather was used to cover
books. In those days, when the horse was the principal means of transport,
saddler and harness making were important uses of leather.
Britain has been the home of leather
vessels for longer and in higher numbers than anywhere else in history and
their existence has become quintessentially British. In the fourteenth century,
for instance, leather was being used in combination with wood in chairs,
arm-chairs, and settles with craftsmanship that reached the levels of an
art-form.
This was also the case later
on with tapestries (especially in Venice in the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries) with chests and cases, and of course, with book bindings, perhaps the
most lasting and refined use of the material.
Going back to tanning techniques, it is more or less in the Middle Ages
that the depilating action of quick lime was discovered, a technique which is
still valid and normally used today.
A
radical shake-up was provided in the middle of the last century with the
discovery of the tanning power of chrome salts which led to a drastic
improvement in production and was applied in practice in industrial production
towards the end of the century. Another
revolutionary element was the substitution of the tanning pit with the rotating
drum, along with the discovery of new types of tannins.
The Black Jack`s name is derived from
the materials used in its construction. Leather that has been soaked in hot
water and dried is known as Jack leather. The same source can be attributed to
the name for German Jackboots and Medieval Arming Jacks. This is also the
origin of the modern word for jacket. Jacks were originally black because the
black material used to line the inside, was used on the outside of the vessel
thus colouring it.
In the early 1900s, the brown leather
flight jackets worn by aviators and members of the military, commonly called
"bomber jackets", were prized for their comfort and durability. The
jacket was often part of an overall uniform ensemble meant to protect fliers
from exposure to the extreme climate conditions found at high altitude, and
sometimes incorporated sheepskin, using the intact fleece on the inside for
warmth.
Modern Day
Until the later part of the 19th
century, there were relatively few changes in the methods used to produce
leather. In fact, the process had changed very little in over 200 years.
However, the industrial revolution did not bypass tanning - one of the oldest
and most basic forms of manufacturing. Science was quickly introduced to the
art and craft of leather making. As a result of all these innovations, the time
required for tanning was shortened incredibly from eight months to a year, to a
period of a few days today.
A wider range of dyestuffs, synthetic
tanning agents and oils were introduced. Together with precision machinery,
these changes and continued innovations to the present day have combined to
make tanning into a viable, modern manufacturing industry.
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