Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Paint Decontamination System (ValuGuard)


Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization that ensures all acidic debris is removed.

Surface contaminants

Before you decontaminate a paint surface or apply a coating you need a clean surface, Removing surfactants and silicones that are ‘protecting’ previously apply products, be cognizant that most car wash concentrates contain both surfactants (to ‘wet’ the surface) and silicone oils (to help the products ‘spread ability and provide a shiny ‘clean’ surface)

Superficially-adhered surface contaminants as the name implies sit above the surface of the paint. These contaminants become imbedded in the clear coat when the paint is subjected to heat radiation; they comprise; ferrous oxide (brake/rail dust) paint residue (oxidation) tree sap and resin, bituminous asphalt (road tar) particles of road dirt (grit) and grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked eye.

As they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when a surface prep towel is rubbed over them, they are abraded away and removed. You may be questioning at this point will the abrasives in the towel affect the surrounding paint. This can be considerably lessened by selecting the appropriate abrasive level and using a suitable lubricant. But be aware that the surface prep towel may induce surface scratches that should be removed by polishing

Then why not simply use a surface prep towel to remove all surface contaminants; the answer is that a surface prep towel can be used to remove surface contaminant, but a potential problem arises in that organic contaminants (tree resin and sap, honeydew and insect exoskeletons an), which generally comprise much larger particulates than inorganic contaminants (rail and brake dust, bitumen (tar), etc.) and therefore have greater potential to cause surface marring between the surface prep towel and the paint as the towel is moved across the paint surface.

Given that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.

Acidic Contaminants Identification

Ferrous Metal - 
·         Light coloured vehicles: Small rust orange dots with black in centre of stain.
·         Dark coloured vehicles: Small white or silver dots with a "rainbow hue" around the particle. The surface will also feel rough to the touch.

Industrial Fallout
·         The surface feels rough to the touch and may exhibit crystalline deposits.
·         Usually ferrous metal is present, as well as water spots.

Acid Rain
·         Surface will exhibit irregular discoloured spotting.
·         Dark coloured vehicles will show cloudy or grey spots where the acids have started to etch the paint.

Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination

Be cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination, above surface and below surface. Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad.
                a) Detailer's clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle, leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the corrosion process is started.

Detailer’s clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer and was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.

Detailer’s clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface. Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started.
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                b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint's micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.

Detailers Clay

Detailer’s clay is made from Polybutene; it was originally invented and patented in Japan in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray.  It is formulated with mild abrasives, a common misconception about using detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it's always best to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring.

First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer's clay is now routinely used by OEM's, professional detailer's, vehicle auctions and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces

Detailer's clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage

While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process 

Corrosion

Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.

The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)

Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust).  Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.

Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.

Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage

Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion

Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage

Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system

Signs of Paint Surface Contamination

          Dark coloured specks
          Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
          Yellow stains
          Small metal coloured flecks
          Rough texture
          ‘Water spots’ or marks
          Surface etching
          Oxidation
          Paint ‘stains

In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicle and its resale value

Post Decontamination / Neutralization

a)        Post Decontamination or surface contamination removal: P21S® Total Auto Wash,  can be diluted solution 3:1  and  contains surfactant detergents and d-limonene (citrus oil) a biodegradable cleaner that can also be used for the removal of tree sap, bug spatters, bird droppings, engine degreaser, wheel wells, rocker panels, floor mats and other grimy areas, this safe solvent cleaner will ensure a there are no surface contaminants

b)       Neutralization: ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (part of their decontamination system) that is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the alkaline salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Diluted 1:8 and allow product to remain in place for 5-7 minutes (do not allow product drying on paint surface). Rinse thoroughly and then dry paint surface

Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization.

Surface contaminants

Based upon studies carried out by PPG, DuPont, BASF and Sherwin Williams, the average vehicle's paint system will absorb up to a pint of water into the substrate when subjected to rain or a car wash.
 Superficially-adhered surface contaminants as the name implies sit above the surface of the paint. 

These contaminants become imbedded in the clear coat when the paint is subjected to heat radiation; they comprise; paint residue (oxidation) tree sap and resin, bituminous asphalt (road tar) particles of road dirt (grit) and grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked eye.

As they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when a surface prep towel is rubbed over them, they are abraded away and removed.  You may be questioning at this point will the abrasives in the towel affect the surrounding paint. This can be considerably lessened   by selecting the appropriate abrasive level and using a suitable lubricant. But be aware that the surface prep towel may induce surface scratches that should be removed by polishing

Then why not simply use a surface prep towel to remove all surface contaminants; the answer is that a surface prep towel can be used to remove surface contaminant, but a potential problem arises in that organic contaminants (tree resin and sap, honeydew and insect exoskeletons an), which generally comprise much larger particulates than inorganic contaminants (rail and brake dust, bitumen (tar), etc.)  and therefore have greater potential to cause surface marring between the surface prep towel and the paint as the towel is moved across the paint surface.


Given that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive clay or polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.


This system is the most recognized by original equipment manufacturers (OEM’s as well as their paint suppliers, BASF, DuPont, and PPG approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs.

Acids react with ferric iron Fe3+ (rust), ferrous iron (Fe2+) or steel (the metal used for auto construction) or aluminium. So be cognizant that acidic products have the potential to start the corrosion process, especially if they become trapped and not rinsed away

This system removes, industrial fallout, rail dust, acid rain, oxidation, silicone and waxes, tar and road grime, tree sap, love bugs and other insects, bird droppings, and hard water spots. No other paint cleaning method removes paint contaminants this efficiently. A three step system with a sequence of neutralization and neutralizing wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants.

The Acid Neutralizer expands and enters the paint system and goes after any acid residues, it’s an exothermic which opens the paint micro pores to enable the Alkaline Neutralizer. The Detail Wash is used as a paint surface wash, the final step to neutralize both the alkaline and the acidic. Thus creating a chemical balance in the paint system matrix (resins binder system, and etc.) these are the reasons that the car manufactures require the products be used as a complete system

Acid Neutralizer
Removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime and storage stains.  Neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage. Removes stains and wax build-up and is an excellent pre-wash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates

Alkaline Neutralizer
 The second step of the Neutralization System, which deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits.  Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.

Detail Wash
The third step in our neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level.  A true neutral carwash shampoo not a soap, it will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces, trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. 128:1 super concentrate

The Alkaline Neutralizer (part B) removes such a broad range of contaminants that it is in a different category from the ferrous iron particulate removal systems (Iron X et al) and is therefore one of the best product out there for ‘everyday’ acid decontamination needs

The acids used in both Finish Kare and ValuGuard decontamination system are phosphoric and sulphuric acids, both strong acids that readily dissociate and are very effective in dissolving the metallic component of brake dust allowing the carbon component to be rinsed away
A three step neutralization and wash system formulated to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, hard water deposits, acid rain residue and other forms of pollutants. I would recommend the use of this system for new or new to you vehicles as part of your new car prep

Benefits: Leaves paint surface uncontaminated for application of wax, polish or sealant. Allows for correct repair of superficial paint damage, reduces buff time on pre-owned vehicles. Thoroughly rinse the vehicle surfaces with clean water before application as this removes and softens hardened dirt deposits.

ValuGard Decontamination System comprises:

1. Acid Neutralizer - “A” Triethanolamine (TEA) is an organic compound that is both a tertiary amine and a triol. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic (EDTA) acid, is a polyamino carboxylic acid is a colorless, water-soluble solid. That works by causing the paint film to swell, without negatively affecting the resin system or the pigments below the clear coat and deep cleaning  and neutralizing the acids that have entered the paint film;
 This solution removes waxes, storage stains, and any acids which may have been deposited on the paint surface, , an 8:1 solution concentrate /distilled water; allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

2. Alkaline Neutralizer - “B” removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains. Neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage. Contains Sulphuric H2SO4 [1] and Oxalic H2C2O4 [2] acids, that remove alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, (rail dust), which deep clean painted surfaces so that they can be rinsed away.

As the instructions dictate, DO NOT ALLOW to dry on the surface either since acidity continuously increases as the water is evaporated. Also, as mineral acids are heated in warmer climates, they become more aggressive.

This step dissolves and/ or loosens the iron oxide particles, and replaces the plastizers that the "A" removes due to its alkalinity. The plastizers are part of what creates gloss, elasticity of the clear. They must be replaced or renewed. The paint system has been subjected to both an alkaline and an acidic product. This neutralizer must be applied liberally, using a dispenser bottle, not a spray, which creates two things; first it allows the product to dissolve and remove the ferrous metal deposits and then continues the deep cleaning of the paint's pores to remove mineral deposits, etc.

Allow neutralizer to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove contaminants. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product (Safety glasses, gloves) Avoid generation of dust.

3. Detail Wash - “C” premium 128:1 concentrate car wash solution, excellent for everyday use, and also the final step in the Neutralization Process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away  once all steps are completed.

OEM approved by - GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Mazda, Hyundai, Nissan, Renault, Saturn and Saab.

MSDS:
Notes:
1.        Sulphuric (H2SO4) acid- a highly corrosive strong mineral acid and can be used as a chemical synthesis.
2.        Oxalic (H2C2O) acid - its utility in rust removal agents is due to its forming a stable, water soluble salt with ferric iron

Application Directions
Training video - http://www.valugard.net/index.php/data-sheets/videos/?l=english&id=GgEfQZ5MqJM

Three simple wash steps, no rubbing; see product containers for more details or visit the web site.
Use separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy

Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid solution (A) on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded, the acid / water is subjected to an exothermic reaction (heat is evolved when water and acid mix together) This means it agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be encapsulated by detailer’s clay (as opposed to being sheared off, by abrasion)

The neutralizer (B) then enters the subsurface of the paint film and neutralizes any caustic compounds generated by ferrous particles that have penetrated paint film.

Methodology:

Rinse
Completely rinse vehicle top to bottom.
Remove excess soil.
Be certain vehicle surfaces are cool to the touch.

1. (A) Acid Neutralizer
The acid mixture comprises
1. Sodium Laureth Sulphate, or sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), is a detergent and surfactant,
2. Sulphuric a strong mineral acid (H2SO4)
3. Oxalic is a relatively strong acid, despite being a carboxylic acid (C2O4H2) and is used as a cleaning agent, especially for the removal of rust or removal of iron] Oxalic dissolves embedded metallic particles

1. Mix acid neutralizer- 16 ounces of product to each gallon of water.
2. If you are using a proportional, simply dispense 1/2 gallon of solution into bucket.
3. Using a dedicated wash mitt, thoroughly wash vehicle with solution top to bottom.
4. Allow to remain in place 5-7 minutes.
5. Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle

Rinse/Dry
1. Rinse vehicle thoroughly top to bottom.
2. Using a waffle-weave towel, dry horizontal surfaces
3. If rinse water continues to ’Bead’ repeat Step 2.

2. (B) Alkaline Neutralizer (Acid Wash)
Phosphoric acid, also known as orthophosphoric acid [: a mineral (inorganic acid) having the chemical formula H3PO Used as a rust converter; by direct application to rusted iron particles, it converts iron oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, FePO4.]

After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be washed off, leaving a fresh paint surface. Repeat applications of the acid wash may be required

Using a clean dry sponge or wax applicator pad, apply Alkaline Neutralizer to all paint surfaces including roof, hood, deck lid, and the tops of the fenders and quarters.
Allow to remain in place 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer’s clay to remove contaminants (being an acid it will render the clay unusable after use with this product)
Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle

3. Rinse/Inspect
Rinse thoroughly.
Visually and manually (by touch) inspect for complete removal.
Repeat if necessary.

4. (C) Detail Wash (Surface Conditioner)
Mix Detail Wash-One part product to 128 parts water (i.e. one ounce of product to each gallon of water).

Wash entire vehicle using a clean dedicated wash mitt from top to bottom, including the glass, bumpers, etc.
Repeat if necessary

5. Rinse/Dry
Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Notes:
1. Always use appropriate personal protection equipment with all chemicals
2. Never:
(a) Use on hot surfaces or in direct sun light, do not allow chemicals to dry on a paint surface
(b) Ingest chemical products
(c) Allow products to remain in place longer than is necessary

Tech Tips
1. Always use separate wash mitt for products "A" and "C".
2. The use of the ValuGard Dispenser system for products "A" and "C" will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy.
3. Other prep or reconditioning operations should be performed during product to remain in place times for best use of labour time.

Each Kit Contents (will treat ten to fifteen vehicles)
• One Gallon of Acid Neutralizer /Product A
• One Gallon of Alkaline Neutralizer /Product B
• One Gallon of Detail Wash /Product C
• Two 9x9 Wash Mitts
• One 12 oz. Dispenser Bottle for Product B
• Product B application pad / Part #VG-IS
• MSDS for each of the products.
• Instructions for use.

Product websites:
Automotive International Inc. - 513-489-7883 / (800) 543-7156 –www.valugard.net
MSDS -

Note: Thanks to Ron Ketcham (Grumpy) the ValuGard product formulator, for his valued input on the content of this article

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.
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