Ask a random
sampling of automotive consumers what single thing most typifies luxury in a
car and the first answer is likely to be leather upholstery, and yet most
vehicle owners are at a complete loss when it comes to the type of leather
finish used or how-to care for it.
Finished Leather
Correct
information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory,
misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to
your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise,
accurate information.
There is a great deal of
conflicting information on leather care
being put out by leather experts themselves who recommend the same
products and techniques be used regardless of the leathers finish or use
baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, Furniture,
Motorcycle, Equestrian and Automobile leather are all different type of leather
finishes and require different care. You do need to understand some of the
basic chemistry behind the tanning and finishes applied to automotive leather
to understand how to renovate, clean or care for it.
All
of which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Using the
correct product is important in order to protect your car’s interior. If you
keep your cars’ interior clean, you can easily save your car for a good couple
of years and it can stay in a ‘like-new’ condition, and maintain a better
re-sale value. Cleanliness is one of the major things buyers look for when
purchasing a vehicle. There are several finished leather upholstery cleaners
available, which need to be used in accordance to the type of finished leather
used in for your vehicles upholstery.
That
is why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish
to achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products
suitable for your requirements.
After
various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and
development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care
product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material
on both a practical and scientific level.
It
had always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into
something so complicated. I have always thought that the more facts and
information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are
being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any
product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your
vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice
Always
keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather not
with the leather hide itself
The
use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the
adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that
contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the
above
Unless
a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate
(urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern
automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder
system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface
pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve
flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a
clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish
Modern
automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing
advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and
as a consequence they do not need to be
treated with aftercare products containing oils or
proteins.
Premium leather has
a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will
prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple
cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the
life of Micro pigment finished
leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container
thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to
one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately
15 to 30 seconds.
Finished leather doesn’t require conditioning
or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re
dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide
itself
Leather Care
Basic 3- Step Leather Care
1.
Clean
2.
Hydrated
3.
Protected
Finished Leather
Unless
a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate
(urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern
automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder
system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface
pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve
flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a
clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish
Modern
automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing
advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and
as a consequence they do not need to be
treated with aftercare products containing oils or
proteins.
Premium leather has
a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will
prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple
cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the
life of Micro pigment finished
leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container
thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to
one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately
15 to 30 seconds.
Finished leather doesn’t require conditioning
or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re
dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide
itself
1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your
leather to wear prematurely. The first
is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt /
grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear
Remove
surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt /
grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use
a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and
then finally wipe off with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel
The
advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important
for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive leathers.
Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell
time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the
product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then
be easily rinsed and the surface dried.
Remove excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre
towel. If the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the
surface. Check the results and repeat process as necessary
For
heavily soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™
Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will
lift dirt and soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush
to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush) especially on light coloured
leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and lifts
the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer,
stains, etc.)
For extremely soiled finished leather - use a Griot's 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush for Orbital Polisher ( Porter Cable 7424, Griot's Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo ) The brush has a
connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers. For extremely
soiled finished leather - use a Griot's 3- inch (speed # 4-5) an Interior Brush
for Orbital Polisher ( Porter Cable 7424, Griot's
Random Orbital Polishers (3
inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo x 2 ) The brush has a
connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers.
Use with 1z einszett Vinyl Deep
Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic
two-phase deep cleaner for that removes build-up thoroughly and effortlessly,
these chemicals restore the original texture, tactile feel and resiliency or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner,
using very little applied pressure
2. Hydrated – why it’s important to
used water-based products. Unlike
lacquer-base products, which close the pores and shorten the life of leather,
water-based leather care leaves the pores of the leather open. This enables you
to hydrate your leather to keep it soft and supple.
When
leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its
moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance
(transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or
replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Moisture
balance is a sine qua non (an
indispensable and essential action) in leather
care. Leather naturally absorbs and
retains moisture vapour, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture
necessary to keep it pliant and soft. One of major attribute is its ability for
transpiration (allowing the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation
and hydration), which it does even better than wool.
Repetitive
heat cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of
creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however
the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.
A
regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to
condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that
do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them.
Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate
dependent.
3. Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without
hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are
not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the
surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather
Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers
penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable
protective film that is breathable, allowing transpiration and keeps the
leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and
provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all
kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so
you are cleaning the protective layer
3a. Ultra violet (UV)
protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet
(UV) protection against photo
degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering
wheel and dashboards
Is water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation
protection against photo degradation (fading)
protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn’t
contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a
clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents)
It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration
and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather
with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.
Note: this product does NOT air dry. Use a second dry cloth to finish the
application process. Extra buffing with
at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability
Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile
feel and lustre to ensure the finished
leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather
Master™ Soft Touch and allow to dry for approx.. 20
minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard
finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows.
Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces
Maintenance:
Monthly
hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and
Arizona, and etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Current
Information
To
be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great
deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of
materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro
diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples
of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical
technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the
techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be
up-dated and revised on a regular basis
Always
be willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what
you don’t know. It is
said that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a
reliable information sources. I would
like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professional’s alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.
I
hope these articles are informative. They are based on the current status of
technical development as well as my experience with the products.
By
having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along
with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react,
you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
As always if you have
questions, I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is
the one that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are
always appreciated
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© 2002 - 2015 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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