Process over
Product
A wax or coating can only
reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the
most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its
preparation) along with applied product clarity. If you apply a product over a
surface that is dirty or one that has surface imperfections a wax or sealant
will not disguise it, only highlight them.
Product Directional Application
Be
cognizant that the paint finish must be polished until most of the surface
imperfections have been removed. A levelled paint surface is what is required
to obtain a mirror-like light reflection. This level of paint surface finishing
is generally reserved for Concours d’élégance Vehicle Preparation
Abrasive
Polish
Products contain
abrasives and should be applied in straight-line motions (Forget what Mr.
Miyagi was teaching the Karate Kid) circular motions will cause circular
directional marks (swirl marks) When an abrasive is applied by hand the
pressure applied is uneven and the reflected light highlights the paint films
surface peaks and valleys differently.
Sealant, Glaze or Wax
Are all non-abrasive so
direction of application won’t cause directional marks to the surface; if you
find micro-marring on your paint surface the problem is more likely to be
either insufficient surface preparation or dirt / grit debris on your
applicator
If there is grit on the
paint surface or on the applicator a circular swirl or scratch is much easier
to see (catches light more often) than one small straight scratch; that’s why I
often recommend straight application.
Paint Surface Cleaner
P21S® Paintwork Cleanse, a gloss-enhancing
chemical cleanser that contains fillers (Kaolin or China clay) will remove old
wax, light swirls and oxidation. It can be applied by hand or with an orbital
polisher. Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax, oxidation, embedded dirt
and light stains from your paint surface. They can remove
micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not
remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some
oxidation and mineral deposits.
Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular is an advanced non-abrasive paint preparation solution
containing mild chemical cleaning agents and heavy glazing oils that fill and
mask minor paint defects and are simply unrivalled in terms of producing a
perfect oil-rich surface ready for Swissvax wax protection.
Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Professional Finish is aimed squarely at the prestige and performance market,
it offers significant advantages in situations where customers request a
reasonable degree of paint correction, but are unwilling to pay for a time
consuming multi-stage polishing process. In just a single step using either a
dual action or rotary machine polisher it will typically enable you to correct
most light to moderate paint defects present, and at the same time produce a
terrific looking gloss that requires no further refinement prior to the
addition of Swissvax wax protection. Furthermore, it makes short work of sticky
paint, making it a must have polish for use on modern Porsche, Range Rover and Subaru.
Chemical solvent paint cleaners are
good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to applying a wax
(without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t
leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc behind, as these can cause problems
when polishing if they are not removed
Formulated with solvents to
remove old wax, embedded dirt and light stains from paint; they help to restore
gloss and remove light surface imperfection. They are designed to be used as
often as required without measurably reducing paint thickness.
Werkstat Prime Strong, this
water-based cleans contaminants from paint surface, including tar, sap, and blurs the line between
polishes and sealants, since it has tremendous cleaning and light polishing
properties but also lays down a layer of durable sealant protection, which is best described by mirror-like
reflectivity, razor sharp clarity and, on metallic and pearlescent finishes. It draws out deep-seated dirt and grime and
simultaneously lays down very tough acrylic polymers to form a highly durable
elastic sealing layer.
A further benefit of the
intensely smooth and level coating laid down is the finish it gives, which is
best described by mirror-like reflectivity, razor sharp clarity on metallic and
pearlescent finishes
An Optically perfect shine
Comes from a clean, prepared
and level surface; it improves the desired optical properties i.e. surface
reflectance. The other requirements are surface gloss, depth of shine and
applied product transparency (clarity), which allows all of the components of
an optically perfect shine to be visible.
Paint
Preparation (before applying a wax)
for a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or
polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner, or what used to be called ‘pre-wax
cleaners’ (Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular
or
Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Professional
Finish) to
ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other
residue, this will ensure surface adhesion and enhance durability
• The
best light reflection is obtained from a perfectly flat highly reflective
surface, i.e. glass over a silver metallic material –a mirror
• A
polish would need to level a paint surface; this will provide a surface without
distortion
• To
provide protection to our theoretically perfectly distortion-free surface we
would need to apply a wax or a polymer sealant, which in turn would need to be
optically clear
An optically perfect
crystalline shine is the result of combining a polymer sealant for its
reflective shine properties with a Carnaubas three-dimensional jetting
properties.
The oils that are formulated
in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the
surface) this distorts the light reflectance, giving the surface the ‘look’ of
rippling liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting a
three-dimensional deep, rich colour, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many
synthetic waxes and polymer sealants tend to occlude (yellow)
The aesthetics- of a
vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or
sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis
it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the
balance is pure emotion
In obtaining the ‘optically
perfect shine’ we should be equally concerned with ease of application,
resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering. Products
should be chosen that would carefully balance each of these considerations
without focusing on one specific characteristic.
A surface protection with a
spectacular shine but limited durability just doesn’t make sense.
Zymol Vintage Glaze is
the most optically clear Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; it’s
got to be seen to be believed
a) Requirements:
•
Clean-washed to remove
oxidation, surface dirt and grime, tar and road film
•
Reflectivity – that comes
from a clean and level surface
•
Gloss-that comes from oils
and polymers with their ability to
reflect light with a minimum of light diffusion to produce surface shine
•
Optical depth-comes from an
applied product that is two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a
high and low source, (i.e. a Carnauba waxes ‘egg-grate’ type structure) as
opposed to a polymer elongated and flat ‘chain-link’ type mesh, which
‘distorts’ reflected light to produce a rippling effect (warmth)
•
Optimising light refraction
-apply product in ‘direction of airflow’, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk,
vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints
optical properties by optimising light refraction and the reflectivity of the
bodylines and contours of the vehicle
•
Transparency-or clarity of
the applied product, which will enable all the above components to be clearly
visible
b) Contributing factors:
•
Cleaned- using a mildly
alkaline (pH 7.5) car wash concentrates to remove surface road dirt and grime
and then- using detailer’s clay to remove ingrained pollution from the paint
surface, and a chemical paint cleaner (Swissvax
Cleaner Fluid Regular) to prepare the surface for a polymer sealant and a Carnauba
wax.
•
Polished-removal of minor
blemishes, surface scratches, swirl marks and water marks with an abrasive
machine polish or compound (Menzerna) to provide a level surface.
A machine polish should remove surface imperfections and swirl
marks, contain oils for lubrication and should not leave residue that requires
extensive ‘clean-up’ to remove hazing, its solvents should evaporate moderately
quickly without leaving excess wax/oils behind, and lastly should buff
relatively easily.
•
Glazed- to obtain a high
gloss by providing the necessary oils and burnishing the paint surface to a
high optically clear gloss
•
Protected- the polymers
carrier system (solvents) allows the product to fill and level the paint film
surface to produce an ultra-flat surface while proving durable surface
protection. A polymer (Duragloss) with its levels of shine, gloss, clarity, reflectivity, depth
and 99% optical clarity, which doesn’t distort or detract from the paints
colour or lines of the vehicle.
•
Waxed-the applications of
Carnauba (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax) that will provide oils to provide a ‘wet-look’ to the surface
and will also provide a transparent surface when layered without yellowing or discoloration,
with a depth of shine by providing a two-dimensional surface.
•
Light coloured paint -i.e.
Silver, White, etc (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting
(the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light
colours tends to reflect light instead of absorbing it and providing a
2-dimentional look.
•
You can obtain a good gloss
provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly;
washed, cleaned, polished and a polymer sealant added (SG, Jeff Werkstatt - Acrylic Jett ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine,
but without ‘depth’ .
•
By adding a Carnauba wax or
a Glaze as an LSP (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax
or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or Danase Wet Glaze) the oils and / or polymers that are formulated in the Carnauba
waxes provide a reflective gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the
surface) For optimal results the surface of a light coloured paint to show
gloss is very much dependent upon good / excellent paint condition, adequately
prepped to remove contaminants and minor imperfections. Detailer’s clay (Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay Bar) and / or Paint cleaner ()
should be a regular part of the preparation process.
Finessing (Jewelling)
[: this process is given various names-
Burnishing, Finessing, Jewelling and Finite paint finishing]
Around
1950 body shops would call it jewelling because they would have to re-buff
single stage paint's a week or two after hand over to the client. . After a
curing process they would have the customer bring the car back and finely
burnish the surface with a finish polish
that had almost no abrasive abilities and a soft wool pad, this step was
referred to as ’jewelling’ to bring out a deep lustre in the paint surface.
Most
detailers associate machine polishing with removing swirls, scratches and water
spots and producing a level surface, but show car owners, Concours d’élégance participants
and paint renovation technicians have long known that all paint finishes, even
brand new finishes, can be improved by a final paint burnishing, increasing
maximum gloss by reducing microscopic abrasion scratches on the paint's
surface, which will increase the gloss of the paint. This process is usually
reserved for those who can appreciate the extra effort, and simply want their
cars to look their absolute best regardless of cost
Finessing
a paint surface is a process of reducing applied pressure and machine speed in
combination with a longer polishing time. It is really effective with a rotary
polisher and a diminishing abrasive. Be cognizant that excessive pressure will make the pad / polish
combination more aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy
(friction heat) which may result in a strikethrough
Before
using this optional step the paint surface should be scratch-free, level and
any holograms are removed. If the surface is polished ’flat’ it will reflect
light evenly, as opposed to refracting it at high and low spots, which will
increase the overall reflective optics of the paint. Once this has been
accomplished the paint surface can be further finessed by using a non-abrasive
ultra soft pad and a diminishing polish combination. It can sometimes take up
to four hours or more finessing a paint finish if it is felt that a higher
gloss is obtainable.
Typically
the final step in surface polishing; using a finishing polish (Menzerna
Super Finish SF4000) in tandem with a pad that has no abrasive abilities (LC
CCS Gold (100 PPI) Finishing foam). By using
little pressure at the beginning of the pass to help fracture the
abrasives since the pad isn't providing abrasion and an ultra fine finishing polish, for the
removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of
holograms
If
the polish runs out of surface lubrication add Gloss It EVP Pad Prime is
high-grade lubricating oil that greatly extends machine polishing times.
Rotary Polisher –use slow linear movements, machine passes in single direction using medium pressure. Use
a non aggressive foam pad (LC Gold 100 PPI) and start at 1500, 1200 and then
reduce speed to 1000 RPM, adding a tiny bead of polish and then finally finish
at 600 RPM, using moderate constant pressure. until the diminishing abrasive
goes clear (somewhat similar to Vaseline®) and then make few passes at 800 /
900 RPM using little to no pressure.
By
working the abrasives, so that only the finest particulates remain, these
micro-fine abrasives will provide the highest obtainable gloss, without leaving
any micro-marring of the paint surface.
Larger
diameter pads can be beneficial for final polishing, since they can be used
longer before they load up with buffing residue. This can be the difference
between a pristine finish, and one that is mildly marred with ultra-fine
hazing.
Random
Orbital Polisher - use a moderately non
aggressive foam pad (LC White) and firm constant pressure, set speed at about 5000 OPM (Flex 3401 using
speed setting 3) until polish breaks down
then reduce speed to approx. 3500 OPM and work until refined.
Another technique when
using a rotary by having your pads off- centre for an orbital style spin does
work well at stopping holograms and should only be used with the jewelling
process once the polish has broken down, or by using a non-diminishing polish.
Carnauba wax over a Polymer sealant
Some
detailers find that a polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look.
Adding a Carnauba wax to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting
(the so called ‘wet look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look.
Bear
in mind that how a paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke
an emotional reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises
out gassed solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is
applied remains.
Detailers
who prepare show cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic
wax; the synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth
and a wet-looking (jetting) appearance
Polymer sealants
Need
a porous surface to bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then
after a period in which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize
(outgas) the polymers cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the
surface. This process usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and
temperature and / or humidity dependent.
As
can be seen from the above a polymer must form a molecular bond with the paint
surface before the application of a Carnauba wax, otherwise the solvents that
are formulated in the wax may compromise the bonding and durability of the
polymer sealant
A wax
or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level
well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces
reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity.
Using a Foam Applicator
To apply wax
without surface abrasion use soft foam (80 PPI) Lake County CCS Wax Applicator is the excellent tool. Applying wax has
never been easier. There are waxes that need to be applied with bare hands, but
for other paste waxes use the above foam pad applicator.
Lake County
CCS Wax Applicator – the collapsed
cell structure foam pad is designed to comfortably and naturally fit in your
hands. With increased pressure to the foam pad more product is applied to the
surface; this translates to a more even application and more efficient use of
the product.
Applying Paste Wax
1.
Always apply to a freshly washed, clean (detailer’s clay) and
dry paint surface
2.
Dip applicator into wax
container with a gentle wiping motion to get a small amount of wax on your
(damp or dry, see mfg instructions) foam or micro fibre towel applicator, then
using a flat hand (not finger tips) and light pressure rub it onto your car in
a thin coat
3.
Always apply wax in a thin, repeat, thin layer (See note 4) two
overlapping coats will ensure complete coverage (for
multi-layer application see Spit-shine)
4.
Using a clean, slightly damp (See note 1)100% cotton micro fibre
towel, gently wipe it across the paste wax
5.
Fold the towel in half and rub the two halves together to evenly
dispense the wax
6.
Overlap each working area to ensure an even coverage, since your
spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel
7.
Gently apply the wax thinly and evenly over your working area
8.
After a panel has been applied, do a wipe test (See note 2) the
wax residue with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (See note 3)
9.
Repeat steps 1 through 5 until your entire vehicle has been
waxed
10.
I use a random orbital, set on a low speed to ensure the
solvents don’t ‘flash’ prematurely, to
apply wax / sealant for two reasons, it applies a thin even (providing pressure
used is consistent) overlapping layer as it mimics hand application due to its
inherent oscillating motion, and it’s easier and more efficient
11.
A good technique with high Carnauba wax content waxes is to buff
the wax with a Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel as a polyester /
polyamide Microfiber towel will remove too much of the wax due to the way they
are constructed) and then spritz the paintwork with very cold distilled water
and wipe down; this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss.
12.
Allow the solvents to flash / dry (vaporize or outgas) in the
sun’s heat (approx 1 hour, dependent upon environmental temperature) and then
buff to a gloss (See note 2) using a Swissvax 100% cotton micro fibre towel. (See also “Hand Application” and “Layering”)
As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages.
1.
The first stage is the application of the liquid product;
friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are
lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into
the applicator.
2.
The solvent carrier system is too ensure the wax remains
semi-solid (i.e. spreadable) to find out if the solvents have out gassed
(vaporised) run your finer along the panel, if it is dry the wax is ready to
be buffed
3.
The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where
the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers
behind to dry and set-up on the paint, leaving a hard shell type protection
4.
Next you remove the excess with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel
(See note 5). Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away
with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a
slight buff to bring out its gloss
Detailers Tip
It cannot be emphasized
enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely
proportional to the amount used
After conducting a
swipe-test and removing residue; park the newly waxed vehicle in the sun (or
heated garage) and wait three to four hours, which will be dependent upon
ambient temperature / humidity, this is to ensure solvents outgas (evaporation)
and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine, you’ll notice both
the chroma (intensity level or richness of a colour) and a deepening of the
shine, then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the gloss.
Notes:
1. Because a dry cloth absorbs liquids, application with a dry
cloth will result in the absorption of the wax
as opposed to spreading it on the surface, use a damp applicator
(similar process to pad priming)
2. A Microfiber towel made from polyester (the scrubbing and
cleaning fibre), and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) will
adsorb (hold onto) liquids due to its inherent properties, their unique wedge
shape of the cross-section of each of the fibres, which enables them to slice into
coatings lifting and removing them from the surface (much like a miniature
squeegee) as they are wiped across the surface.
3. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the
reason polyester appears to adsorb liquids is the many thousands of micro
fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids.
4. The correct method for the application of a wax and to obtain
optimum results: is to apply it very thinly. Ease of product removal is
inversely proportional to the amount used.
5. Buffing - Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel with a
terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural
looped terrycloth or velour, were the loops are trimmed to produce a blunt fine
nap, which is ideal for removing wax and for
final surface buffing
Marque Specific Sealants and Wax
Paints from different (DuPont,
PPG, BASF, etc) manufacturers do not favour one wax over another; there
is no factual basis for a special wax or sealant formulated for a specific
vehicle model, nor custom coloured waxes with pigment dyes to mach original
paint. Wax doesn’t form a molecular bond with the paint surface; it just forms
a ‘shell’, so there is no chemical reaction between paint and wax.
The clear coat is applied
for both protection of the colour coat and to give it depth; some marques clear
coat paints vary i.e. some are softer/ thinner etc. If you apply a non-clear
wax or sealant, or a custom coloured wax it will only mute the paints colour
and depth of shine.
Layering
There is a lot of discussion
about whether or not it is possible to layer Carnauba on a paint surface, it
works on leather boots (providing you neutralize the solvent) and in my
experience it also works, up to a point, on a cars paint service.
I prefer the word ‘film’
(1-0.5 µ (0.004 – 0.02 Mil) as opposed to ‘layer’, a film more accurately
describes a thinly applied sealant or wax, were as a layer tends to describe a
thicker covering.
Some specialty paint
protection (Silica Coatings) systems can have subsequent film added to increase protection and
paint appearance, systems must set-up or cross-link prior to application of
subsequent coats. Depending on the
product type (polymer sealant or Carnauba wax) times vary from a few hours to
days.
Most solvents will strip
subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to the
last layer; but a wax / solvent emulsion.
It’s a diluted form of its original strength and won't strip the wax
layer like neat solvent. If you apply a low-solvent product (Victoria
Concours Wax) on top of one that has already set-up (i.e. the solvents have
evaporated) you can increase its density (up to a point) two to three
applications are usually considered optimum
One thing that will negate
the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains
the vehicle’s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint,
which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to
show through and provide the colour with depth.
Any product applied on top
of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the
paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted. One of the problems with
‘layering’ some waxes and polymers is that they tend to occlude (become less opaque)
as the thickness increases
The viscosity of the
previous layer requires more solvent to significantly melt away than the next
applied wax layer can contain The carrier system allows the product to fill and
level the paint film surface to produce a flat surface (this flat level surface
is more pronounced with polymers due to their
Covalent (molecular) alignment
characteristics). This level surface optimises the paint film surface's desired
optical properties (i.e. surface reflectance, clarity, gloss, and depth of
shine)
Another ‘layering’ technique- apply a
liquid Carnauba wax (liquid wax usually contains polymer and solvents) and
allow to set-up (usually 1-2 hours, do a smear test to endure that its dry.
Then a apply to a paste
Carnauba wax; allow the solvents to evaporate for 2-4 hours, and finally buff
surface with a 100% cotton towel to produce jetting (a ‘wet-look’ shine)
Swisswax
Application of wax with Bare Hands
By using the warmth of the
hands to spread and massage in a very thin coating of wax. Applying to small
sections and massaging in the wax started the bonding process quicker with an
instant layer of protection, the bare hands acted as the first catalysis of
bonding to the surface, and eventually to a full curing by exposure to the air.
'Spit Shining’ (Bull polishing)
[Spit shining is the
technique that is used to make shoes shine like mirrors - - and some of those
tricks can be applied to putting carnauba on your car's paint] NickT
It’s not
as lurid as it sounds, I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force
(RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to
spit shine boots to a mirror finish.
You’ll need a can of Kiwi shoe wax, a bag
of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most
of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it
onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little
more wax and repeat.
Re-moisten the cotton ball
as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton
ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers
(maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax
builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to
flake.
Spit shining is used for
‘layering’
Organic wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is cold distilled
water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary
precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the
previous wax layers.
What you are doing is
dissolving the solvents so that it doesn't remove the previous layer. One of
the very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure
and friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative
impact on wax thickness Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and
has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads.
The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining
is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is
worth it
Usually, a wax
with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba
that is not formulated with a high solvent content (Pinnacle Souverän) A solvent will have the potential to
strip subsequent layers, but remember that you are not applying neat solvent to
the last layer - but a wax and solvent blend. So it is only a fraction of its
original strength and won't strip the wax layer like neat solvent. One of the
very important nuances of layering is to use very little applied pressure and
friction when applying subsequent layers as they will have a negative impact on
wax thickness
Using a damp applicator and
cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any
solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold
water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper
and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax
solution disappears. The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize
the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking
to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine
mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a
light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.
Always apply extremely thin layers using a
very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and
continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed,
keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and
repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of
hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood
or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the
towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.
When you spray very cold
water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents
that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface
temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not
dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.
Allow each subsequent Carnauba
waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows
definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the
solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.
After 24 hours you can
repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle
Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase
the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal
Information resource- based on
information in a post by NickT on Autopia.org and the original method used to
shine RAF uniform dress shoes (See also
“Wax layers” Detailing World forum)
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© 2002-2011, TOGWT ® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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