Bird Excrement consists of [:
Uric acid, C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid, thus in strong alkali at high pH ] it forms
the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of
carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid
urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid]
The water solubility of uric acid and its alkali metal and alkaline earth salts is rather low. Birds excrete their liquid bodily waste in the form of uric acid rather than urea. Uric acid, being nearly water insoluble, exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste. That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances are that you so often see on the surfaces of a cars pain or the sides of buildings and splattered all over awnings.
Unlike mammals, birds have no bladder because they do not store liquid wastes. Birds pass their urine into a common chamber used for digestive and urinary wastes. This chamber, called the cloaca, also contains reproductive by-products. So, when a bird lets go with a "bomb" it contains white uric acid crystals and a bunch of digestive wastes like insect parts and seeds.
The water solubility of uric acid and its alkali metal and alkaline earth salts is rather low. Birds excrete their liquid bodily waste in the form of uric acid rather than urea. Uric acid, being nearly water insoluble, exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste. That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances are that you so often see on the surfaces of a cars pain or the sides of buildings and splattered all over awnings.
Unlike mammals, birds have no bladder because they do not store liquid wastes. Birds pass their urine into a common chamber used for digestive and urinary wastes. This chamber, called the cloaca, also contains reproductive by-products. So, when a bird lets go with a "bomb" it contains white uric acid crystals and a bunch of digestive wastes like insect parts and seeds.
Solubility [: the
property of a solid, liquid, or gaseous chemical substance called solute to
dissolve in a solid, liquid, or gaseous solvent to form a homogeneous solution
of the solute in the solvent]
Cause - the different types of food ingested by birds affect the
composition and quantity of droppings. Chemical aggression on the paint surface
is caused by strong organic acids acting for an extended period and exposed to
high temperatures and moisture (reactivity).
One
of the most serious threats to a paint surface; it's not only disgusting - it's
a toxic hazard. Bird excrement contains unpleasant fungi, including Histoplasma
capsulatum and Cryptococcus neoformans as well as bacteria, including
Chlamydophila psittaci. Migratory birds, especially seagulls are known to
spread hard-to-treat infections as they can carry antibiotic-resistant
bacteria.
These
are known to cause pneumonias as well as systemic infections. Various forms of
encephalitis are also associated with bird droppings, so avoid direct skin
contact.
Unlike
mammals, birds don't urinate; their kidneys extract nitrogenous wastes from the
bloodstream, but instead of excreting it as urea dissolved in urine, they
excrete it in the form of uric acid. Uric acid, being nearly water insoluble,
exits a bird's body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste.
That's what those streaks of white paint-like substances are that you so often
see on the sides of buildings and splattered on vehicle surfaces, which if left
on the surface and is then subjected to reactivity it will result in an
indentation in the surface (etching) around the periphery
Bird
excrement is one of the most damaging environmental pollutants as they relate
to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of
uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the
breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds.
Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a
mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it
becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.
Reactivity
[: acceleration of a
chemical reaction by a catalyst]
Be cognizant
that an acid is inert until it comes into contact with moisture; any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate
reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form
of high humidity, dew and etc) the more aggressive the acid becomes.
Then
you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen
molecule that causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface
it should be noted that until this acid is neutralised subsequent moisture and
heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an
alkaline to neutralize it
This will cause surface etching (an indentation
of the clear coat) so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint
care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. At lower temperatures (> 40.oF
or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.
As urethane
clear coat paint is heated by ultra violet radiation, it both softens and
expands that same heat dries and solidifies the bird excrement on the paint
surface. Once the paint protection product fractures (reaches its melting
point) it is no longer able to withstand the acids, which allows them to
quickly penetrate the paint matrix.
This will cause surface
etching, so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not
only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. The longer the excrement
remains on the paint surface, and the higher the temperatures, the harder the
dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint surface damage
At lower temperatures (>
40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no surface etching
Catalyzed
hydrolytic degradation
Definition [: the
damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving completely.
Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena]
Be
cognizant that there are no polymers or waxes that are acid-proof; they all
only offer short-term resistance; however a Silica a coating (Modesta and Opti-Coat Pro) are acid extremely acid resistant.
The most pertinent factor is to have a layer
of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second
is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as
possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant,
as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface
plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.
Clear
Coat Formulation
IUPAC definition [: a
thermosetting resin as a petrochemical in a soft solid or viscous state that
changes irreversibly into an infusible, insoluble polymer network by curing.
Curing can be induced by the action of heat or suitable radiation, and/or both.
There are various kinds of thermosetting plastics. A cured thermosetting resin
is called a thermoset]
A thermosetting polymer (urethane or plastic), also known as a
thermoset, is a petrochemical material that irreversibly
cures. The cure may be induced by heat, generally above 200 °C (392 °F),
through a chemical reaction, or suitable irradiation. Thermoset materials are usually liquid or
malleable prior to curing and designed to be molded into their final form
They are so named because they experience a chemical change during
processing and become hard solids. Thermosets are highly cross-linked polymers
that have a molecular mesh or network of polymer chains like a
three-dimensional version of a net. Thermosets undergo a chemical as well as a
phase change when they are heated. Once cured they cannot be melted or remolded
and are resistant to solvents - that is once they are formed they are 'set'
(hence the name).
Paint
protection
Most
natural contaminants are hydrophilic in nature including bird poop. Automotive
clear coats are generally based on urethanes, acrylics, melamine’s, silanes,
etc. which are hydrophobic and repel water and other contaminants initially.
However as the paint surface gets oxidized environmental contaminants will bond
to the surface. Polishing the paint surface removes the oxidized layer and
makes the paint surface hydrophobic again for a short period of time.
Waxes
(Carnauba and synthetic) as well as polymer sealants might not offer much
protection against bird droppings, they will make the surface hydrophobic and
minimize bonding of the contaminants to paint. This can help reduce the damage
from bird poop and make removal of the contaminants much easier. Besides being very acidic, bird droppings
contain enzymes which can break down C-C linkages in automotive paint (See also this article “Nanotechnology and other Coatings”)
Note: some of the newer
coating products rely on a configuration Si-C (SiO2) bond, which are far more
resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer sealants. Due
to the applied coating thickness they are more
resistant to the acids found in excrement than a polymer sealant.
Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as possible
Food Sources
Their
main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in the winter/ spring
it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any length of time the
will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area)
or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)
Birds
use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds (owls, hawks, etc hunt
and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight bone fragments, sand
and grit are some of the major components, which can cause scratching.
Excrement removal
Avoid
using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush residue, as they
usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will seal in the acid
and not allow it to dissipate.
Take
your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed as
quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining
acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and heat.
• A de-limonene (citrus-based)
cleaner (P21S
Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize
the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is
practical is highly recommended.
•
1:1 solution Isopropyl
alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent,
which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any
grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let
it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.
•
Glass cleaner (do not use
one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant
•
Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell ®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and
apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary
react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the
acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or
use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3
minutes and wipe dry.
An
automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and heat to an acidic
substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the heat opens
microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a
carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst (reactivity) each time
water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and erode the paint matrix
Type of Surface
Damage
Identify
the type of damage (Type I Surface staining or
Type II Surface etching (a concave
indentation) Ultra violet (UV) radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat
to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates
the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or
alkali should be neutralized (See
Acid / Alkali Neutralization)
Verification
of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed through the use of a 30X
magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint surface ASAP; proceed by
using the least abrasive products first
Type I [is an
off-white non-transparent ‘clouded’ stain] that
if left for any length of time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude
(become non-transparent) this is usually inherent with a light surface stain.
Providing it is removed quickly and hasn’t been subjected to
reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially
if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint
1.
Use a chemical paint surface
cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains
2.
Use ValuGuard Acid
Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint
surface and in the pores of the paint
3.
Try to dissolve the
surface/etched deposits trying one or more of the following;
a)
Use a 2:1 or stronger
solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust
ratio as required)
c)
Or equal parts distilled
water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
4.
Clean the effected surface
with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner
Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave
indentation) around its perimeter] this is
usually the result of a stain that has been on the surface for a while and has
been subjected to reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which
produces an acid that etches the paint surface
1.
Use a chemical paint surface
cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains
2.
Use ValuGuard Acid
Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint
surface and in the pores of the paint
3.
Use detailing clay to remove
any `hard' surface granules
4.
Use a machine polish
(Optimum Polish or Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow)
foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface
5.
For PPG CeramiClear™ Clear
Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S
- Power Finish
6.
Use the least aggressive
polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more
aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
7.
Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or
3000 grit finishing paper and polish with a finishing polish
8. Re-apply paint protection
Do
not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel to help digest
their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause
scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface. Once it
softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage
to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as
this will cause streaking
Use a
solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine
mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this will soften debris and allow
it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge
Protection
Klasse,
Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total
Performance Polish are all acid-based, acrylic
polymer or polyethylene-acrylic o they are more resistant to acidic pollutants
(acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano
coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply
an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by
washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.
Optimum Opti-Coat™ is based on a resin
pre-polymer that uses a configuration of (Si 14) (SiO2 -silica) bond,
which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in
polymer sealants. As a consequent it is more resistant to the acids found in bird
excrement. It forms ceramic bonds
at very high temperatures and will not be damaged by extreme heat and therefore
resists oxidation.
Opti-Coat
has better resistance to chemicals
(acid), scratches and release properties than other automotive coating
currently in use. This coating has a 2-4
ยต (microns) applied thickness when fully
cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent coating like a regular clear coat
lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint
Far
beyond washing, cleaning and detailing your automobile inside and out, the best
preservative action you can take is to cover the car with a car cover. It
provides the best protection against industrial fallout (IFO) dust, dirt; ultra
violet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation; bird excrement and windblown debris (See also Car Cover Section)
Aves bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse
(ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants
it contains encapsulate and trap bird and insect excrement, dry surface dust,
or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used
without causing scratches (check contents periodically as heat will evaporate
the contents if stored in the car’s trunk).
Apply
with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting
with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn stains, soak the micro
fibre towel and allow it to remain in n place for a few minutes and then wipe
away the debris.
Caution - Dispose of any towels or wipes used to
remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash your hands, as bird lime
can harbour diseases
Avoid
using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or
polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using
an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as
is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not
neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and moisture).
If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with
a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then apply a paint protection.
Excrement Removal
Be
cognizant that the longer the deposit remains on the bodywork and the higher
the ambient temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater
the propensity for paint damage. This type of damage can only be prevented by
motorists remaining vigilant and removing the deposit as this pollutant can
have a serious negative impact on your paint finish if not removed safely and
expediently. Also be aware there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or
waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance although
they will make them easier to remove
1.
Use a paint surface cleaner
(Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)
2.
Try to dissolve the alkaline-based,
surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;
a)
Use a 2:1 or stronger
solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)
b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust
ratio as required)
c)
Or equal parts distilled
water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.
3.
Clean the effected surface
with Klasse
All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action
Paint Cleaner
4.
Use detailing clay to remove
any 'hard' surface granules
5.
Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad
(speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface
6.
For CeramiClear or other
hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for
machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish
Polish (106FA)
7.
Use the least aggressive
polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more
aggressive polish / foam pad set-up
8.
Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or
3000 grit finishing paper
Bibliography
1. Alma
Heritage Science – Uric acid from bird droppings
2. Effects
of Environmental Conditions on Degradation of Automotive Coatings, a paper by Mohsen Mohseni, Bahram Ramezanzadeh and Hossain Yari
3. Bond
Disassociation Energies in Organosilicon Compounds, a paper by Robin Walsh
4. Polymer
Basics DoITPoMS - University of Cambridge
Always be
willing to learn; because the more you learn, the more you’ll realize what you
don’t know. It is said
that knowledge is power, with the caveat that it includes access to a reliable
information sources. I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professional’s
alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I trust these articles are informative. They are
based on the current status of technical development as well as my experience
with the products.
By having some
understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little
science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve
the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share these articles as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
As always if you have questions,
I’ll do my best to answer; bear in mind the only stupid questions is the one
that was unasked. Questions and/ or constructive comments are always
appreciated
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© 2002 - 2015 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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