Product Application
The main priority is to
ascertain the material you are trying to clean and then select a chemical that
is compatible to clean it with Providing the cleaning product selected is
suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception
to this is glass surface cleaning) apply several drops of the selected cleaning
solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro
fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot
frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.
Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture.
Focusing
on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit
your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully
whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The
misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the
reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest
that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.
Use
of any information on these pages is used at the reader's own risk. The
detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be
the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may
experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common
sense
Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals
a)
Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too can damage carpets,
upholstery, wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional
labour to correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.
b)
Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning
performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet
and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things
as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.
c) Spot testing to ensure chemical
will not stain or damage material is also very important
Pre-test Spot Procedures
Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the
surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective
products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions
recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read
the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a
basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.
Information disclaimer
The information contained in
these articles is for general information purposes only. The information is
provided by TOGWT™ and while we endeavour to keep the information up to date
and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or
implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or
availability with respect to the information, products, services, or related
graphics for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is
therefore strictly at your own risk.
In no event will we be
liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or
consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from
loss of materials, time or any profits arise out of, or in connection with, the
use of this information.
Be cognizant that I’m not a professional detailer; insofar as detailing
is not my sole source of income, so a professional detailer that carries out
‘volume’ (time is money) type detailing may use different products and
methodologies
Process over Product
A
product represents a very small percentage of the equation; identification of
the materials, correct diagnosis of a suitable method and the selection of an
appropriate product along with the correct surface preparation and application
methodology will result in the desired result being obtained
This is not a product
vendor’s catalogue, nor a vendor pretending to be an educator, as there are a
lot of companies that are now writing online about detailing methods and
preaching that only the product(s) they sell or manufacture are suitable. In
reality they are just advertisements, with the appearance of educators as
opposed to mere salesman. Commercialism brings with it concerns of honesty and
true representation. In other words, it’s difficult to know what is true when
someone is motivated by income, i.e. directly targeted at product sales, more
so than an unbiased opinion.
Carpet Dyeing and Colour Restoration
Ensure carpet is cleaned
before the application of a dye or colorant (See Carpet Cleaning and Care)
Automotive carpet dye is
made to improve the look of worn or faded carpet. These dyes work best when
they are closely matched to the original carpet colour. While it may be
possible to change the colour (light to dark) of automotive carpet with these
dyes, they are not recommended for that use. Automotive dye comes in many
colours that are computer matched to automotive manufacturer specifications.
If your carpet has pet stains, bleach spots or faded areas, spot
dyeing may be the answer.
Clean the carpet thoroughly
before renovating or re-dying automotive carpet. Most colours can be dyed, but
dyes are translucent and therefore carpet dyeing is not like painting over one
colour with a new colour, a colorant must be added. Use good quality carpet dye
so as to ensure a first class professional finish
First establish what the
carpet is made from as not all dyes will work on some fibres. Commercially
there are two types of carpet material: natural fibres (wool or cotton) and
synthetic fibres, (nylon, olefin, polyester and acrylic). You can dye wool
carpets, nylon carpets but polyester, polypropylene and acrylic carpets are
very difficult to dye and can result in a less than perfect finish.
There are also many types of
carpet construction, but most commonly used are looped or tufted. Normally a shorter looped synthetic pile is
used for auto carpeting, using a tweed design rather than a solid colour will
reduce pile compression and will hide dirt better.
Loop carpet - is
manufactured by pushing fibres (loom) through a backing material, these forms a
loop that shows on the face of the carpet. The material is then passed through
a machine that applies a coating to the back which locks the fibres. Cut pile carpet is made by the same process
but one further step is made by shearing off the top. Different backings,
quality and thickness as well as the density of fibres effect quality and cost.
European automotive carpet is generally of a higher grade (Wilton wool is used
by RR, etc).
Cut pile - automotive carpet is generally made of either acrylic or nylon
fibres. The fibres are spaced wider than Import carpet and usually are left a
little longer. Import automotive carpet is usually made of natural or blends of
natural fibres (wool) with a heavy backing. Fibre spacing is very tight, nap is
usually short. Import carpet generally resists matting better than American
carpet. Colour choices are large in both import and domestic carpet; there is
however very few matches between the two colours
Natural Wool (Wilton) Carpet
Wilton carpet is a dense
100% imported lamb’s wool loop pile of the highest grade (Wilton) Wilton
patented their first loom in 1741; their carpets are always machine woven and
are very hard wearing. This type of premium carpet is mostly used in prestige
European automobiles; Aston Martin, Bentley, Ferrari, Jaguar, Lotus, Lexus and
Rolls Royce, and high-end German automobiles such as Audi, BMW, Daimler AG,
Mercedes-Benz, and earlier Porsche models.
Unlike carpets made of synthetic fibres, soil can be vacuumed
from wool carpets very easily. In the first year, we recommend vacuuming at
least two or three times a week to remove excess fuzz that accumulates on the
rug surface. This fuzzing is perfectly normal and in no way shortens the life
of your rug. It is merely the result of loose fibres created during the weaving
process.
Pilling is a condition of the carpet face in which fibres from
different tufts become entangled with one another, forming hard masses of
fibres and tangled tufts and may be caused by excessive heavy foot traffic or
using powder cleaners or deodorizers that "clump" fibres together. If
the beater bar of your vacuum slows down noticeably on the rug, raise the
height, constant heavy beating with these bars can also cause pilling.
Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before
using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working
on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible
with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always
test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain
the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the
material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic
chemistry.
Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the
surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective
products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions
recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read
the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a
basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.
When
spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small
area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not
react with the surface.
Providing the cleaning
product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning
solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro
fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot
frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure. Do not
use the product if it adversely changes
your fabric's colour or texture.
There
are a couple of common methods used to dye carpets. The first is spray dyeing
and the second is rotary brush dyeing.
Spray dyeing - as the name signifies, is
done by spraying carpet dye on the carpet using a pressurized container and
wand. As you might suspect, there an issue with this method; its inability to
give a deep penetration of the carpet dyes into the carpet fibres
Rotary brush dyeing - is done by applying carpet
dye to the carpet with a DA machine fitted with a soft grey brush attachment (available from Autogeek).
The machine is evenly moved across the carpet making several even passes over
each area to get the required shade or colour. There will be an uneven colour
application if the machine stays too long in one place.
Mixing the Dye/Colorant
The
dye/colorant bonds to the carpet fibres immediately and lasts for the life of
the carpet, so chose a water-based dye product that is permanent, colour fast
and eco-friendly.
Dissolve a small quantity of the colorant in medium hot water to
obtain the colour you want. Mix the solution in a suitable container by
agitating well so that the colorant is distributed evenly in the solution and
then shake well.
Always follow the dye manufacturer’s instructions. Once you are
satisfied with the colour obtained pour the solution into a suitable container
for spray or brush application. Test the dye on a piece of scrap carpet before
you use it on the main area. If you need to adjust the colour add water or
colorant as appropriate until you obtain the colour shade you are satisfied
with
·
Use a degreaser that is
formulated to remove grease and dirt, trapped in the fibres. Pour the Prep into a large bowl, and clean
the area well with a soft brush. Spray carpet and upholstery cleaner on heavily
soiled areas of the carpet and then use a foam carpet cleaner () to remove the
dirt. Wipe up the foam with a dry towel. Use a carpet extractor system to
remove the excess water with the machine or absorbent towels.
·
Mix the automotive carpet
dyes with the amount of warm water specified by the manufacturer. Apply the dye
evenly to the entire area. Gently scrub the carpet with a scrub brush to coat
the carpet fibres. Brush or spray the carpet fibres in different directions to
achieve an even distribution of the automotive carpet dye.
·
Cover porous material in
spray area, such as leather or velour. Vinyl may be wiped-off immediately with
warm, soapy water or covered.
·
When carpet is slightly damp
to completely dry, apply or spray just enough dye to lightly cover carpet. Use
smooth, even strokes a few inches above the surface. (Spraying too close to
carpet will waste product and create excess residue)
·
Allow fibres to dry for
15-20 minutes and then brush the carpet with a semi-soft brush to fluff the
fibres and then add a second coat; after that has dried repeat, and leave it to
sit for an hour before touching it again.
·
Let air dry, or quick dry
with air mover, and vacuum carpet.
·
If you missed a spot, or
colour isn't dark enough, re-spray and let dry.
·
Wipe away any dye that came
in contact with leather or other upholstery. Allow the carpet to dry and spray
on a stain protection product.
·
Allow dye to cure 30 days
before shampooing. Most dyes are permanent, but there may be a small amount of
residue with the first cleaning, especially if too much dye was used in the
application.
·
The amount of dye needed per
application is based on area to be covered, spray nozzle pattern (narrow or
wide), and distance of nozzle from the carpet. It's always best to apply a
light coat and touch-up where needed. Heavy applications create excess residue
which will not penetrate fibre.
·
Finally use a steamer to
promote an even overall permeation of
colour
Mould (Mold)
Stachybotrys Chartarum [: fungi that
grow in the form of multicellular filaments, called hyphae]
[Many molds can begin growing at 4 °C (39 °F), the temperature
within a typical refrigerator, or less. When conditions do not enable growth,
moulds may remain alive in a dormant state depending on the species, within a
large range of temperatures before they die. The many different meld species
vary enormously in their tolerance to temperature and humidity extremes.
Certain moulds can survive harsh conditions such as the snow-covered soils of
Antarctica, refrigeration, highly acidic solvents, and even petroleum products
such as jet fuel. Xerophilic molds use the humidity in the air as their only
water source; other moulds need more moisture. Mold has a musty odor.]
Mould in vehicle interiors is
unfortunately more common than you would imagine. Although car manufacturers do
their best to keep water and even moisture from getting into your vehicle, over
time, seals wear out and eventually will start to allow water ingress, or
something as simple as forgetting to roll up your windows or closing the
sunroof during a rain storm
Without identifying and
eliminating the source of the mould you can't get rid of it, there are many
Counteractant type products that mask odours; what you need to do is remove and
clean and thoroughly dry the whole area; carpets, upholstery (inc foam and etc)
that is affected, including the headliner and metal floor pan (don’t forget to
clean/replace the cabin air filter).
Just like mould and mildew
contamination in other areas, you cannot wash or shampoo it away. This only
exasperates the problem. Mould is a form of fungus which forms anywhere there’s
moisture trapped in the air, and is spread by releasing millions of tiny spores
into the air. You cannot see the spores but you may be able to see moulds,
grey, green or black in colour, growing on damp surfaces.
Dirt and moisture are essential to mildew
propagation, which is very difficult to eradicate as mould uses enzymes to
digest nutrients from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material
and also down into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular
pattern. Mould / mildew needs to be neutralized as it will not dissipate
without treatment as the spores are still present and moisture will regenerate
them
There are hundreds of
thousands of types of mould, but only about ten types cause health problems,
commonly sinusitis, bronchitis and other respiratory conditions, as well as
allergies. I would strongly recommend you wear appropriate personal protection
equipment (PPE) safety glasses, respirators; etc inhalation of mould could be
very detrimental to your health and can cause an allergic reaction
There are many Counteractants products that only mask odours; what you need to do is remove and clean and disinfect the whole area; carpets, upholstery (including the upholstery foam and etc) that is affected, including the headliner and metal floor pan. Don’t forget to clean/replace the cabin air filter.
Remove the seats and
thoroughly clean the carpet with a carpet cleaner and a disinfectant. Then let
it air dry, or use a heater to ensure that they are completely dry. To
neutralize mould use 10:1 Distiller water / (non-chlorine) bleach solution, use
a syringe to inject solution into seating foam, you may need to remove and
replace the carpet padding.
Clean the carpet using a
steam extractor’s upholstery attachment, this will eliminate the bacteria that
create mildew, ensure the carpets and upholstery is thoroughly dry before you
re-install the seats
Microban®
Disinfectant Spray environmental protection against: germs, odours, mould and
mildew-http://www.baneclene.com/catalog/microban.html The first thing to
do is to raise as much dirt / dust from the carpet with a brush by using a
circular motion over the whole carpeted area; this will loosen the debris and
bring it to the top of the carpets pile, enabling a vacuum to remove it
Sporicidin®
Enzyme Mold Stain Cleaner - concentrate is a blend of enzymes in a low foaming solution
formulated to loosen and remove dried debris, protein, blood and mucin
deposits. It effectively cleans both natural and synthetic fibres that have
been soiled with organic and inorganic debris. Ideal for use as a pre-cleaner
for mould remediation, and restoration applications
·
Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Mold Remediation,
published by the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration
Certification (IICRC) also contains valuable information
·
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) provides free
brochures to anyone who asks.
·
The Center for Disease Control (CDC) and a few other
organizations can be considered unbiased and reliable sources.
·
The National Institute of Safety & Health (NIOSH) is also an
excellent source of unbiased information.
Professional
detailers – as
your you’re dealing with health-related issues,
bear in mind that we are living in a litigious society, so document the
process / procedures used on this type of remediation.
Fabric Upholstery and Carpet Protection
Once carpet or upholstery
has been cleaned the use of a fabric protector will help to repel grease, dirt,
water and oil-based stains. It is very important to ensure that the fabric
upholstery is very thoroughly rinsed, as the cleaners will pull (wick) the dirt
to the surface. The soap and oils will attract dirt and oily grime like a
magnet (re-soiling) if they are not thoroughly rinsed away giving the
appearance that they have not been cleaned.
Select a product that
contains UVR protection for maximum fade protection, a must for convertibles.
For outdoor materials (convertible fabric or vinyl) it restores water and
stains repellency, resists soiling, mildew formation and helps to protect again
harmful UV and infrared radiation.
1.
Scotchgard™
-fluorocarbon chemicals (polymer latex) developed by 3M are mostly inert so by
applying it to fabric they provide an effective protective treatment by
surrounding each individual fibre with an invisible shield. It can be safely
used for the finest fabrics, wool, silk, and fine leathers like Nubuck,
Alcantara® and suede Scotchgard Protector improves the fibres resistance to oil
and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use
2.
303™ High Tech Fabric Guard -
strong enough to protect fabrics in the harshest environment, yet it can be
safely used for the finest fabrics, wool, silk, and fine leathers like Nubuck,
Alcantara® and suede. On outdoor fabrics
it restores lost water repellency and stain repellency to factory new levels.
It resists soiling, impedes mildew formation and helps protect against the
sun's harmful UV rays.
3.
303™ Aerospace Protectant - (there are no cleaning agents in this
product) providing protection from ultra violet radiation is very important to
avoid photo synthesis (colour fading) particularly in an open-air
roadster/convertible.
Ultra violet protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV
protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or
sea salt, and etc) No product on the market retains UV protection effectiveness
more than 2-3 months. It is also water miscible, so it is imperative that you
renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location
climatic condition)
There
is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer, it a matter of physics, not
chemistry. Polymers (acrylics, etc) resist UV degradation very well due to
their structure, they are somewhat immune and absorb very little ultra violet
radiation, and hence UV energy does not damage them
Application- use
on a clean surface spray product onto a cloth, the surface to be protected
should be wet, not just damp. Then using a clean, dry cloth, agitate to ensure
the protected surface is dry After application allow 60 minutes for product to
cure, then using a 100% cotton cloth to lightly buff surface
The Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning Institute (CUCI)
This is the basic governing
body that provides training and standards for quality carpet, upholstery,
restoration, odour, and leather care techniques. They have regional units and
trainings classes throughout most of their regions. The classes are taught by
certified instructors, who teach the procedures, processes, chemicals, and
equipment that can best be applied to your style of work. Some of the basic
classes-
(a) Basic carpet cleaning techniques
(b) Basic upholstery cleaning and care techniques
(c)
Basic leather care techniques - these classes will teach you fibre, soil and
stain identification, ‘spot’ stain cleaning techniques and the proper
procedures for the removal of soils quickly and cost effectively.
Material data sheets (MSDS)
Be aware of dangerous
ingredients and request Materials Safety and Data Sheets (MSDS) from the
manufacturer if there is any question. An (MSDS) is required under the OSHA
Hazard Communication Standard. The MSDS is a detailed informational document
prepared by the manufacturer or importer of a hazardous chemical. It describes the physical and chemical
properties of the product. MSDS’s contain useful information such as flash
point, toxicity, procedures for spills and leaks, and storage guidelines.
Chemicals or other ingredients that are include in a products
formula that are considered non-hazardous are not required to be listed on an MSDS
The information given is designed only as guidance for safe
handling, use, processing, storage, transportation, disposal and release and is
not to be considered a warranty or quality specification. It relates only to
the specific material designated and may not be valid for such material used in
combination with any other materials or in any process, unless specified in the
text.
Information included in a
Material Safety Data Sheet aids in the selection of safe products, helps you
understand the potential health and physical hazards of a chemical and
describes how to respond effectively to exposure situations. Although there is
an effort currently underway to standardize MSDS’s the quality of individual
MSDS’s vary. It may be useful but it cannot substitute for prudent practices
and comprehensive risk management.
An MSDS should be available
for every chemical you use. Read these and follow the recommendations for safe
use and disposal of the material. The target audience for information in a MSDS
is the occupation worker who may be exposed to chemicals at work. However, much
of the information is also relevant to consumers.
Read the manufacturers
application instructions and then obtain and read the MSDS sheet to ascertain
the chemicals used. Although it should be said that an MSDS is a document that
contains details of the hazards associated with a particular chemical and
provides information regarding its safe use. The MSDS is required to state the
chemical's risks, safety and impact on the environment.
An MSDS is a fact sheet
developed by manufacturers describing the chemical properties of a product.
Material Safety Data Sheets include brand-specific information such as physical
data (solid, liquid, colour, melting point, flash point, etc.), health effects,
first aid, reactivity, storage, handling, disposal, personal protection and
spill/leak procedures.
How
to Read a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/gemare/gemare_012.cfm
Chemical
Information (MSDS) A-Z- http://www.ehso.com/msds.php
I
would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive
comments are always appreciated.
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2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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