Mytee
HP60 Spyder Hot Water Carpet & Upholstery Extractor
An extractor is used for the deep
cleaning of carpets; it forces hot water and detergent deep into the nap of
carpet, and then draws it out with a powerful vacuum.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the
minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture
sensitive materials. Use foam cleaner,
which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff
bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture
content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried.
Dust
-
can soil carpets in various ways, it will discolour
the fibres making them appear dull and grey, dust brought into the vehicle from
outside often contains grit, which will abrade the fibres and cause wear marks,
especially in the foot well close to the pedals. Using a vacuum with an
agitator attachment regularly will avoid these problems
Spills and stains - whenever a
spill occurs it is important to blot as much of the liquid us as possible using
a dry clean cloth or tissue. Never rub the pile as this will cause distortion
and possibly alter the appearance of the carpet. It is very important to do
this immediately after the spill occur, failure to remove the spill quickly
could lead to the stain becoming permanent and it may not be able to be removed
at a later date, even with professional assistance.
Carpet shampoo - if
incorrectly applied, can leave sticky soap residues in the fibres which can
result in the soiling reappearing quite rapidly. The advantage of foam over
liquid is the minimum amount of moisture so it will not over wet the fibres,
very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive natural wool
carpets.
Autoglym Interior Shampoo/Cleaner easily cleans through dirt
and oils on hard to clean panels like door handles or seats and effectively
removes stains from carpets without any fear of bleaching, leaving soapy
residue, or lingering scent behind. The name suggests shampoo, but this product
is an actual cleaner.
To refresh
the colour -
mix a 1:10 solution white vinegar and distilled water, soak a towel in the
solution and gently rub but do not scrub the carpet surface
Normal
cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a medium stiff brush, lightly spray
surface with a carpet cleaner (Scotchgard™ Fabric & Upholstery
Cleaner) and let the foam remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then
remove residue.
Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a
medium stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet
Foam, allow the solution remain in place for
5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor or high
suction vacuum
After surfaces are clean and
dried, use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to raise the
fibres and apply a stain guard (303
High Tech Fabric Guard or Scotchgard™ Protector) improves the fibres
resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as soiling from everyday use.
Carpet
Extractor - using an extractor that has powerful suction effortlessly
removes dirt and odours, lifts stains and puts the colour back into a carpet’s
pile, making it look clean and smell fresh
Washing your carpets
regularly is just as important as vacuuming. That’s because it removes oily and
embedded dirt that gets trapped in your carpet and is left behind by your
vacuum cleaner--even if you vacuum daily. Carpets that aren't washed become
dull, flat and worn over time because this trapped dirt damages the fibres and flattens
the pile. Washing helps prolong the life of carpets and keeps them looking at
their best at all times.
Steam - this method is most effective but use caution
by not using too much detergent or water, do not over-wet natural wool As
always test the product on a small area to check for residue or a sticky feel.
Do not use if a residue exists, or if in doubt about a product. Finally, do not
use laundry detergents to clean as they often contain chemical brighteners.
Some stains can be removed,
some cannot. Those that resist all efforts of removal are usually not stains at
all. They are actually areas that have been dyed. Fruit drinks contain chemical
dye. Coffee was once used to colour fabric and requires a professional,
concentrated stain remover. Grease, tar and oil stains require strong
degreasers to be completely removed from thick carpet and velour upholstery.
Over the counter products do not have the chemical concentration necessary for
this job.
The steps to interior
detailing are vacuuming,
cleaning, and conditioning/protecting
1.
Vacuuming: Completely wipe away dirt/grime with damp cloth until clean, rinsing
out clothe as required, allow to completely dry before use. Use a rubber
bristled brush in a circular motion to raise the nap of the fabric once it is
thoroughly dry; this will loosen the debris and bring it to the top of the
carpets pile, enabling a vacuum to remove it
Vacuum thoroughly, getting
loose dirt is critical (Metropolitan Vac 'N Blo™) always begin your interior
cleaning with a thorough vacuuming; it is much easier to vacuum loose dirt from
doorjambs when the dirt is dry instead of muddy after washing the exterior.
Use the crevice tool for
hard-to-reach areas (don't forget the instrument panel and stereo controls),
the upholstery attachment (usually a soft round brush) for the seats, and the
stiff-bristled brush on the carpet, to loosen deeply embedded dirt and lift
matted carpet-pile
2.
Conditioning and Protecting: Don't miss this very important step. Once your
interior is clean, you should use a conditioning/protection product (303™ High
Tech Fabric Guard, which includes UVR protection or Scotchgard™
Carpet Protector) to ensure protected surface will repel dirt and moisture, and
again, keep your vehicle in its like-new condition.
Using the right detailing
tools to apply and remove the cleaning and conditioning products will make the
job easier and will give you professional results
Seat Removal
For a thorough interior
cleaning, removal of the seats will allow access to hard to reach areas. It's
relatively easy if you take your time and are careful. Front bucket seats are
typically held down by four bolts on the ends of the runners at the base of the
seat, two in the front and two in the back, these bolts are usually torque down
hard (when replacing start the bolt by hand, being very careful not to
cross-thread them)
These are removed using a
socket wrench. Sometimes the bolts are covered by a decorative plastic
moulding, which is held in place by a screw or just pops off using a prying
action with a slotted screwdriver. First, slide the seats to its rear-most
position, exposing the front bolts, remove, then, sliding the seat to its
forward position, exposing the rear bolts, remove.
When all four bolts have
been removed, gently tilt the seat either forward or back to reveal any wires
that are connected to the underside of the seat (for seat position controls,
heaters, seat belt sensors, etc.). Carefully unplug these wires, and remove the
seat from the vehicle, taking care not to scratch seat or paint surfaces as you
lift out the seat. Cover the remaining wire harness with a plastic bag and
aluminium foil; this will prevent water and cleaning solution from getting into
the wiring harness.
When re-installing seats ensure the bolts are torqued correctly; if they are not tightened to the correct setting and break free in a collision you could be found liable (remember this is a very litigious society)
Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before
using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working
on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible
with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always
test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain
the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the
material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic
chemistry.
Read the product labels and
manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH
levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the
surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective
products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable,
environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions
recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment.
Read
the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a
basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.
When
spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small
area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not
react with the surface.
Providing the cleaning
product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning
solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro
fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot
frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure.
Do
not use the product if it adversely changes
your fabric's colour or texture.
a) Carpet and upholstery cleaning:
P21S Total Auto Wash is a
Limonene (citrus) based cleaner and a good stain remover and is gentle on your
carpet. Gently blot into the stain using a sponge; don’t frantically rub at the
stain as this will only cause the stain to spread and may weaken the fibres.
Rinse the sponge and blot with cool clean water, dry material thoroughly
A good place to start is to
clean the carpet, floor mats and upholstery. This method of cleaning the
carpets and upholstery first, will allow the most drying time between cleaning
and the finishing of an interior detail.
Use a stiff brush to loosen
any debris as a regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the
fibres, when hot water and detergent is used with an extractor; this debris is
loosened and removed with the water.
Most vehicle fabrics are
comprised of nylon or olefin. Leather and wool (natural fibres) require more
delicate care, and will be discussed later. Carpet and upholstery can be
cleaned using three methods; hand cleaning, an orbital buffer with brush
attachment or machine extraction. The hand cleaning method remains most popular
due its low cost.
Realizing that carpet is a
vehicles second largest surface area, your shoes may have dirt / grit on them,
twisting and turning in one spot your embedding minute particles into the fibre,
which in turn abrades the surface and wears it away. If this is the case there
is no easy-fix other than replacement. Heated water breaks down water-soluble
soiling faster, as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the
surface tension of the fibre. Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker
reactions between chemicals and the soil.
Note- Use the hottest water available,
it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water
It is very important to
ensure that the carpet / upholstery are very thoroughly rinsed, as the cleaners
will pull (wick) the dirt to the surface. The soap and oils will attract dirt
and oily grime like a magnet (re-soiling) if they are not thoroughly rinsed
away giving the appearance that they have not been cleaned. Once the carpet is
cleaned and dried a final vacuuming will remove any light moisture and give the
carpet a finished / detailed look
Direct Mount DA Polisher Carpet Brush
1.
Turn your orbital
polisher into an interior shampooer, for its ease of use and high quality
results it produces when shampooing carpeting and upholstery. Scrubbing by hand
with a brush takes time and effort, the Ultimate DA Polisher Shampoo Brush is designed to fit all most orbital polishers,
the 5/16 shaft easily screws directly into your polisher. Heavy duty built
construction for long lasting performance.
Soft grey brush suitable for wool carpet, fabric /leather
upholstery or convertible top (available from Autogeek)
1. To hand clean carpet and upholstery
A heated carpet extractor is going to work
much better than a shop wet-vac. You should be able to find a place in your
area that rents these machines by the day. Cleaning interiors by hand is a
labour intensive and time-consuming process.
·
Before vacuuming use a stiff brush to loosen any debris as a
regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the fibres
·
Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to
raise the fibres
·
Vacuum area very thoroughly (Metro Vac N' Blo®) to
lift all the loose dirt from the carpet
·
Remove any stains with a ‘spot’ remover (303™
Spot Remover & Cleaner)
·
Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner &
Spot Remover or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)
·
Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S®
Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable
cleaners to react
·
After sufficient remain in place time agitate pre cleaner
solution with an upholstery brush to ‘friction scrub’ surfaces
·
Mist spray surfaces with hot water
·
Brush the carpet to raise the nap and loosen ground in dirt
·
Remove the excess moisture, using cotton terry towels to blot
the moisture, repeat until towels are ‘clean’ or use a Wet/Dry vacuum
(preferably a carpet extractor system) and allow carpets / mats to thoroughly
dry before use
·
Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™
High Tech Fabric Guard)
Note: Use the hottest water available it also
helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets / mats
2. Using an orbital buffer (with a brush
attachment)
·
Before vacuuming use a stiff brush to loosen any debris as a
regular vacuum can leave contaminants behind attached to the fibres
·
Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the carpet material to
raise the fibres
·
Remove any stains with 303™ Spot Remover &
Cleaner
·
Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner &
Spot Remover)
·
Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ Hoover
Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent or Woolite®
Heavy Traffic Carpet) let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable
cleaners to react
·
Agitate surfaces with a random orbital buffer (speed #4) and
brush attachment, scrub carpet / fabric upholstery
·
Mist spray surfaces with hot water
·
Attach a terry-cloth bonnet and go over areas, changing the
bonnets frequently
·
Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the material to raise the
fibres
·
Remove the excess moisture, using a Wet/Dry vacuum or a carpet
extractor in one direction only, do not scrub, allow carpets / mats to
thoroughly dry before use
·
Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™
High Tech Fabric Guard)
Note: Use the hottest water available it
also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot water when hand cleaning carpets /
mats
3. Using a Carpet Extractor
A carpet extractor is a
machine that uses a wand to inject water/cleaning solution deep into carpet
fibres and then, as the wand is pulled back, removes the moisture from the
carpet along with soils and contaminants. Using an extractor that has powerful
suction effortlessly removes dirt and odours, lifts stains and puts the colour
back into a carpet’s pile, making it look clean and smell fresh
Washing your carpets
regularly is just as important as vacuuming. That’s because it removes oily and
embedded dirt that gets trapped in your carpet and is left behind by your
vacuum cleaner--even if you vacuum daily.
Carpets that aren’t washed
become dull, flat and worn over time because this trapped dirt damages the
fibres and flattens the pile. Washing helps prolong the life of carpets and
keeps them looking at their best at all times.
Residual
Moisture
Early carpet extractors put
down considerable amounts of water/solution into the carpets, often as much as
two gallons per minute. Unfortunately, the carpets could take a long time to
dry, in some instances more than 48 hours. Because the drying time was so long,
the development of mould, mildew, fungi, and other contaminants became a
serious problem.
Low-Moisture
Carpet Extractor
As defined by the Low
Moisture Carpet Cleaning Association (LMCCA), this refers to any cleaning
system that ensures carpets will dry within two hours or less at 65 percent
relative humidity at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Note that this
refers to any type of carpet cleaning system (shampoo, dry, bonnet, etc.).
However, the most common carpet cleaning system used in cars, most experts
agree the most effective system overall in any type of setting is extraction.
A low-moisture carpet
extractor will use a gallon of water or less per minute. This reduction in
water use can be important to operators in drought-plagued areas of the country
or where water conservation is a key consideration.
Pressure
Pressure levels can have a
significant impact on cleaning performance and the most effective ways to clean
different types of carpet, fabrics, and soiling situations.
Heat
Some carpet extractors use
only cold water to clean carpets. Although this may work to an extent, it is
not viewed as the most effective, expedient, and efficient way to clean
carpets, upholstery, or other surfaces.
Heat is one of the four
fundamental factors, along with agitation, time, and chemical required in
cleaning, according to the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration
Certification (IICRC). When carpets are cleaned, heat improves the
effectiveness of the cleaning chemicals in loosening and dissolving soils,
making them more extractable.
This may also mean less
chemical is necessary, making the cleaning process environmentally preferable.
The correct amount of heat along with the other fundamentals of cleaning will
do more of the work, making the cleaning task easier for the operator.
An extraction system process
is the choice of professional detailers due to its cost effectiveness,
performance efficiency and time saving over conventional methods. Extractors
work by using a cleaning solution dispensed from a tank that heats the solution
to 200.oF+ and is sprayed at medium pressure (50 PSI +) and a high volume from
the machine via a cleaning wand; it is then filtered and re-circulated. The
water is heated and pressurized, which produces a dry vapour.
When the vapour
leaves the nozzle it is then subjected to atmospheric pressure and expands (a
phase change), vapour micro-molecules are able to penetrate the pores on any
permeable surface. When the molecules come in contact with a surface they
expand forcing any dirt, debris, and bacteria to the surface (steam vapour also
kills bacteria) Dry vapour has a water content of about 5%, so the surface
dries extremely quickly
Extraction also allows the
ability to remove cleaning residues due to its high suction power (100-inch
water gauge +). Rinsed fabrics look and smell cleaner and resist soiling
better. I know ‘lesser’ machines may give the appearance of a clean interior,
but in reality, the soil is being migrated the bottom of the carpet, this
dampened soil will cause mould / mildew formation as the suction lift on lesser
machines is pretty much non-existent.
Mould uses enzymes to digest nutrients
from organic materials, the mould forms on top of the material and also down
into its fibres leaving circular or black spots in an irregular pattern Dirt
and moisture are essential to mildew propagation.
Pre-cleaner
a) Organic stain removal- quarter (1/4) cup Protein
Stain Remover (topoftheline.com) / 1-cup 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover / one
gallon hot water let remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to
react
b) Other stain removal- 10:1 distilled hot water/
P21S® Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable
cleaners to react
Methodology
·
Use a rubber bristle brush to go over the material to raise the
fibres
·
Vacuum area very thoroughly (Metro Vac N' Blo®) to
lift all the loose dirt from the carpet Remove any stains with 303™ Spot
Remover & Cleaner
·
Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner &
Spot Remover or Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)
·
Use a pre-cleaner solution, 10:1 distilled hot water/ P21S®
Total Auto Wash, let solution remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable
cleaners to react
·
After sufficient remain in place time agitate pre cleaner
solution with an upholstery brush to ‘scrub’ surfaces
·
Use a carpet extractor to clean and remove liquid and dirt. (Vapour
Clean Products T5 Extractor / Spotter®)
·
Use a 16:1 solution clean distilled hot water / Hoover
Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent or 303™
Cleaner & Spot Remover
·
Use a rubber bristle brush going over the material to raise the
fibres
·
The next step would be to use its high-volume vacuum, in one
direction only (do not scrub) to remove the excess moisture and grime,
immediately recovering it.
·
Allow carpets / mats to thoroughly dry before use
·
Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303™
High Tech Fabric Guard)
Notes:
1.
Carpet cleaning is based upon methods recommended by the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning Institute (CUCI)
2.
Use
the hottest water available it also helps to pre-spray the carpet with hot
water when hand cleaning carpets / mats
3.
Run a
2:1 solution distilled water / distilled white vinegar thru the extractor
either weekly, or after every ten fresh fills. Vinegar, contains Acetic acid,
an organic carboxylic that will help eliminate scale, mild mineral deposits
etc. from clogging your extractor.
4.
Rug
Renew from top of the line
can revive stained or dirty fabric’s, you can use its super-concentrated
formula diluted 5:1 with Distilled water as a spot remover, or dilute 20:1 in
your extractor. Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies
5.
Folex Instant Carpet Spot Remover - removes spots and stains
6.
Odour
removal- adding 4 ounces Odor Terminator to each gallon of extractor solution
7.
Clean interior glass after use to prevent
spotting. ( Valugard Product Line)
8.
Carpeted
floor mats: Floor mats take a majority of the wear away from the interior
carpet. However, this leaves floor mats with soiling as well as oily stains.
Inspect for oily stains. Use a solvent-based spot remover to remove oily
stains. Spot treat really bad stains
(303™ Cleaner & Spot
Remover or Woolite®
Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)
Pour a small amount of
cleaner onto a terry towel and wiping toward the centre of the stain to remove
the spot. Clean normal to heavy soiling as described above. Floor mats may get
as wet as necessary to properly clean them.
Normal cleaning-
brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet
cleaner (Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam) and let the foam
remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.
Heavily soiled-
brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S®
Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, let solution remain in place for 5-10
minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor
The rubber backing and the
ability to relocate them to a warm place (not direct sunlight) for quick drying
aids their cleaning. After mats are clean and dried, brush them to raise the
fibres and apply stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard)
to repel grease, dirt and oil based stains and provide UV protection against
fabric fading.
Embedded Sand
Use
the back of a brush to 'beat' the carpet and bring the sand grains to the
surface and then vacuum, repeat as necessary. The problem with scrubbing a
carpet that has ingrained sand particles is that they are abrasive and may
damage the fibres
Use
caution- if using Oxy-Clean™
as it’s an oxygen bleach that is also a strong alkaline ( pH 10) as it
may discolour or leave a ‘bleach’ type stain if not thoroughly rinsed / removed
as its active ingredient is hydrogen peroxide which is considered a corrosive.
Disclaimer-the
guidelines for carpet care given in this section are of a general nature and
are made in good faith. However, due to the condition, materials, age and other
factors, undesired effects or damages might be caused when some of these recommended
procedures are used on some automotive carpets/mats, so any procedure or
technique you choose to apply is done at your own risk.
Removing Stains
Rust
Corrosion stains sometimes
emulate from the seat guide rails-
·
Remove as much of the rust stain as possible before applying a
treatment.
·
Apply a Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner P21S Total Auto Wash
onto the stain so that the spot is thoroughly saturated.
·
Sprinkle salt onto P21S Total Auto Wash
·
Allow the salt and Limonene to react with the stain for 24
hours.
·
Refresh the TAW to keep the spot damp.
·
Blot the stain (do not rub, as this may damage the fibres).
·
Thoroughly rinse the spot with clean water.
·
Repeat as necessary.
Floor pan
·
Remove any salt crystals / rust flakes
·
Apply POR-15® Marine Clean™
·
And then two coats of rust inhibitor paint (POR-15®) or
(Eastwoods Road Salt Neutralizer) a high performance rust-preventive coating
designed for application directly on rusted metal surfaces; apply thin coats
·
Allow each coat to thoroughly dry
Glycol Antifreeze
When antifreeze spills onto
carpet, it will leave behind a stain and an unpleasant smell. Antifreeze often
spills or leaks onto automotive carpet, but it can also find its way onto the
carpet inside homes and garages. Once you notice the antifreeze stain, it needs
to be removed as soon as possible, to prevent the stain from becoming
permanent. If the antifreeze stain sits on the carpet for too long, you may
need to replace it.
1.
Soak up the excess antifreeze from the carpet with a terry cloth
towel
2.
Dilute the stain by saturating with clean water
3.
Remove the excess water from the carpet with an extractor or use
a terry cloth towel
4.
Apply a surfactant detergent (P21S Total Auto Wash) cleaner to
the carpet.
5.
Use a 1:1 solution of distilled white vinegar and distilled
water to neutralize
6.
Sprinkle cornmeal or baking soda over the carpet and allow it to
sit overnight. It will help absorb the remaining moisture and also control
odour.
7.
Vacuum the carpet to remove baking soda
Latex Paint
•
Remove as much wet paint as you can by blotting with a clean
terry cloth towel, work from the outside in to avoid spreading the stain.
•
Sponge with cool water and blot again (still from the outside
in) until you've removed as much paint as you can.
•
Use a 1:1 solution of P21S Total Auto Wash and medium hot water
•
Blot with solution, using a clean towel, again working from the
outside in.
•
You may have to repeat this process
•
Allow to completely dry and then vacuum
Water Marks (Browning)
Is caused by wet cleaning
fabric or carpets, heat causes a capillary action that brings soil (in the form
of a brown stain, hence browning) Clean and extract as normal. Follow with a
sprayed mist of a 'souring agent' to prevent browning, colour bleed and those
awful 'water marks'. Extract with plain water (no detergent). Pro's Choice
"Browning Treatment" (formerly known as
Brown Out) is an excellent treatment for water stains on upholstered furniture,
caused by wet cleaning, and treatment of brown out on upholstery or carpet due
to over-wetting. Simply apply full strength to the problem area. Wait to dry
and then evaluate.
Drying
Always thoroughly dry carpets to avoid mildew and/or mould
formation. To speed the drying process, leave the doors or the sunroof open,
but make sure you shut off the interior lights by placing something in the door
jamb that keeps the buttons retracted, or disconnecting the battery. Use
of a carpet extractor is better than heat as this may cause the mats or carpet
to become stiff. If an extractor is not available use cotton terry towels to
pat dry
Protection
Scotchgard™ Protector
-fluorocarbon chemicals (polymer latex) developed by 3M are
mostly inert so by applying it to fabric they provide an effective protective
treatment by surrounding each individual fibre with an invisible shield.
It can be safely used for
the finest wool or nylon fabrics; Scotchgard™ Protector
improves the fibres resistance to oil and water-based stains, as well as
soiling from everyday use
I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals
alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was
informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as
the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals
we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share this article
as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always
appreciated.
Copyright
© 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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