Carnauba (Brasilia) Wax
Dew Point
[: dew point is associated with
relative humidity (RH). A high relative humidity indicates that the dew point
is closer to the current air temperature. Relative humidity of 100% indicates
the dew point is equal to the current temperature and the air is maximally
saturated with water. When the dew point remains constant and temperature
increases, relative humidity will decrease] [1]
The
dew point temperature is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold
all of its water vapour, and some of the water vapour must condense into
liquid. At 100% relative humidity, the dew point temperature and real
temperature are the same, and clouds or fog can begin to form.
While
relative humidity is a relative measure of how humid it is, the dew point temperature
is an absolute measure of how much water vapour is in the air. In very warm,
humid conditions, the dew point temperature can reach 75 to 77 degrees F, but
rarely exceeds 80 degrees.
Dark patches, Haze or Streaking
These
surface problems are often caused by the differing product evaporation rates. A
liquid wax usually contains more volatile solvents that evaporate out when the
wax is applied. The excess wax, left over lubricants, excess bonding agents,
solvent residues and whatever else is left forms the "haze".
To
remove, take a clean, soft 100% micro fibre towel, soak in cold distilled water
and wring out so that it’s still wet (not dripping wet and then slowly wipe the
paint surface. This has the effect of removing any oils, wax or polymer residue
by allowing them to evaporate along with the moisture from the towel, so give
this time to work by wiping very slowly, otherwise there is a chance that they
will be re-deposited. Repeat as necessary
How Temperature and Humidity affects Product Application
Detailing products should be
applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface
temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 - 80.oF (10.oC
- 26.oC) the carrier system for waxes is solvents, while polishes
(and waxes) use oils for surface lubrication. At lower temperatures they tend
to solidify and at higher surface temperatures they evaporate allowing products
to dry out and you risk ‘dry buffing’.
Humidity and dew point
saturation temperature (the temperature which water vapour will condense into
water) will also affect the application of waxes and sealants. Micro particles
of moisture will form on the horizontal panels and due to the oil content in
waxes it will inhibit the adhesion process, water will interfere with the cross-linking
of a polymer sealant
Excess humidity will also
affect ‘how’ a wax or sealant dries (i.e. it may cause hazing or clouding of
the surface) and will also prolong product drying and curing times
The other climate related
condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct
sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared
to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render
it ineffective.
These are the temperatures and conditions that are relative to
the application of car care products; the most important is the actual surface
temperature of the vehicle.
·
Surface
Temperature - (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.oC)
and 80.oF (26.oC) products will work well within a much
broader temperature range, i.e. 45. °F to 90.° F (4.5-32.oC) but at
45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three
hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.oC)
range.
·
Dew point – or
saturation temperature; this is the temperature to which a given parcel of
humid air must be cooled, at constant barometric pressure, for water vapour to
condense into water. A high relative humidity indicates that the dew point is
closer to the current air temperature. Relative humidity of 100% indicates the
dew point is equal to the current temperature and the air is maximally
saturated with water. As the temperature approaches 100% humidity it will have
a negative effect on the way products cross-link (coatings, polymers, etc) and
detailing products dry (wax, dressings, etc)
·
Cross-linking
times- approximate cross-link period at various temperatures; at 60.oF - 48hours, 70.oF-36
hours, 80.oF - 24 hours (cross-linking is a function of temperature,
humidity and time)
·
Humidity
and dew point - saturation temperature (the temperature which water vapour
will condense into water) will also affect the application of waxes and
sealants. Micro particles of moisture will form on the horizontal panels and
due to the oil content in waxes it will inhibit the adhesion process, water
will interfere with the cross-linking of a polymer sealant
·
Hot
ambient temperatures- most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot
surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used. The
oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate,
leading to dry buffing and surface scratches
Using
cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal
deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the
brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block
structurally fail. The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface
(i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)
·
Cold
ambient temperatures - (>40.°F ) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric
cleaners, etc) will be negatively affected
at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax or oils as a lubricant, which
will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and
become unworkable. Product drying and cross-linking times will also be
negatively affected by colder temperatures
The final result can only be
as good as the surface it’s applied to; so surface preparation is of paramount
importance. More wax or sealant does not equate to better or longer protection.
It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product
removal is inversely proportional to the amount used (1.5 – 2.0 oz should be
sufficient for most vehicles) ease of
product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used.
Once you’ve applied a very thin layer you
should be able to see the lighting s reflection. It should look translucent, like Vaseline®. You can tell where the product has been applied; as you
wipe the surface with a clean micro fibre towel you will feel resistance
Pre-wax Cleaner
Most waxes and sealants are
formulated to be detergent proof so using washing up liquid (Dawn) may or may
not remove them.
The following products will
strip wax / sealants;
·
Detailing clay (90 %+)
·
Chemical paint cleaner
·
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
·
Solvents
·
An abrasive polish or compound
For a pristine paint film
surface after the application of detailer’s clay or corrective surface
polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse
All-In-One)
They contains a mix of micro
abrasives and cleaning agents that remove oxidisation and ingrained dirt to
ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other
residue, this will enable an efficient bonding with the paint surface and also
ensure product durability. The paint cleaner’s suggested above can sometimes be
used instead of detailers clay if the ‘bag test’ doesn’t reveal contaminates
but the surface looks ‘soiled’ use a chemical surface cleaner (especially on
light coloured paint)
A chemical-based paint
cleaner will remove any dead, oxidized paint, pollution damage, light oxidization, accumulated road film, light tar and acid
rain or water spot deposits.
Apply cleaner with a foam
applicator pad, about a quarter-size drop and apply to your paintwork in a side
to side motion, NOT a circular motion. Stick to one or two panels at a time.
Then use a good terry towel to remove, as this gives a little abrasion to the
cleaner
Wax Application
Allowing a Carnauba wax or
Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturer’s instructions on specific
products) is usually more than sufficient; this will allow the solvents to
outgas, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity. Remove
with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (polyester/polyamide Microfiber removes
too much wax) and a fine mist spray bottle filled with ice cold distilled water
(Swiss Wax or Groit’s Garage - 100% Cotton Buffing Cloths
A wax when applied to a
surface will not adhere properly on its own, it is necessary to add specialized
miscible oils and polymers to allow the waxy material to spread and adhere
evenly to the surface. A sealant or a wax should be applied in a thin uniform
coating. A wax doesn’t form a molecular
bond, nor does it cur, it sets-up and forma sub-micron ‘shell’ type coating.
No matter how
thick you apply any wax, only so much of it can adhere to the surface and form
a ‘shell’. There is only a finite amount of product required to form a thin
uniform layer on a substrate; using too
much just wastes product, lengthens the drying process, and makes removal more
difficult.
A second
application is always a good idea as it ensures complete surface cover. As
another layer is added surface friction, pressure and the solvent used as a
carrier system remove a percentage of the preceding layer.
It may be
possible to increase the applied product thickness but there comes a time when
you are removing more than you are adding. There is a method used (spit
shining) in which you neutralize the solvents and its then possible to ‘layer’
waxes, due to their chemical composition there are very few sealants that can
be successfully layered.
Park the newly
waxed vehicle in the sun (or heated garage) and wait three to four hours, to
ensure all the solvent outgases (evaporate) and then lightly buff the paint
again to perfect the shine, you’ll notice both the chroma (intensity level or
richness of a colour) and a deepening of the shine, then lightly buff the paint
again to perfect the gloss.
Machine Application - the advantage of using a random orbital machine to apply these
products is that it spreads a thin and even coating and requires much less
effort than hand application; the downside is that it uses slightly more
product.
Methodology- use a slightly damp, Black Lake County
(or equivalent) 75 PPI foam pad at medium / low speed
Removing that thin layer
once it's dry should be almost effortless. A quick wipe with a clean, dry microfiber
towel is all it takes.
Zaino Custom Polish
Applicator – a specially designed
100% virgin cotton polish applicator,
approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to
prevent scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features
the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a
special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a
light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will
make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.
Application
methodology - fold the micro fibre towel into four quarters when using it’s
best to wipe in a single direction until all visible contamination is removed,
flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost
everything with just the towel and hot water. They eliminate the need to carry
around different cleaners for different uses. These cloths are a great
environmentally friendly healthy alternative to cleaning with chemicals.
What is equally important
with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned
frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges.
Fold the micro fibre towel
in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe
the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you
see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different,
clean section.
With it folded properly
you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually
takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to
clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry (See Micro Fibre Washing / Care)
Post Wax/ Sealant Inspection
To ensure nothing has been
missed inspect the vehicle panel by panel
·
Apply two thin coatings to ensure coverage
·
Use two towels to wipe downs
·
Inspect the panels by looking down the sides from front to back
and vice versa
·
Look across horizontal surfaces by viewing from panel height
Washing
- After using foam pads place in some water with P21S
Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean or a microfiber detergent;
this keeps your pads moist and begins the cleaning process while you finish detailing;
pads can be rotated by soaking and squeezing out reside. Never allow a used
application pad to air dry before it is washed
Zaino
Custom Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator,
approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent
scratching of paint surfaces.
The 100% virgin cotton
material features the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton
surface surrounds a special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your
applicator with a light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator.
This technique will make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that
applicator is soft. After use, hand wash applicator
Washing -
After using foam pads place in some water with P21S® High Performance
Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean; this keeps your pads moist
and begins the cleaning process while you finish detailing; pads can be rotated
by soaking and squeezing out reside. Never allow a used application pad to air
dry before it is washed.
Hydrophobic Beading
Most waxes will bead until
enough surface tension is created, and then it will sheet as the volume of
water increases.
Hydrophobic beading on a
paint surface is aesthetically pleasant, and many people equate beading with
protection; there is a long standing myth “that as long as a paint surface
maintains beading it’s being protected from the elements” (much like the myth
that “the more soap produces suds the better the cleaning effect”) There are
many things that will affect the ‘shape’ of a water bead on a surface; since
gravity, surface tension and the surface energy of the coating all play a part.
To test your wax / sealant
you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and
diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of
your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially
applying your polish/wax.
This is your starting point.
This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity,
duration and changes) for that specific product.
As the water beads start to
diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and
its film protection factor is going away, Once the water beading is the same as
before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone
Dust and road grime will
have a very negative effect on surface beading than any other factor. The effect of this is often misconstrued as
wax failure when this isn't the case.
Organic wax
Carnauba in its natural
state is un-usable as a car wax, it is sold as a hard solid block (or flakes)
so the oils /solvent / beeswax or polymers that are formulated with it play a
large role in the usability and performance of the wax.
Many people mistakenly
assume the term ‘pure wax’ means that the wax contains nothing but Carnauba wax
or Beeswax, this is not so as all waxes are blends of different substances.
Wax when applied to a
surface will not adhere properly on its own, solvents and miscible oils that
form its carrier system are added to enable it to spread evenly, it then
sets-up (the solvents outgas and the wax hardens to create a protective
'shell') a wax does not form a molecular bond, only polymers do. Natural waxes
initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is
that the polymers work their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the
paint film surface thereby creating a mechanical anchor.
Wax can be thought of as
semi-solid until the solvent carrier components outgas (evaporate) these wax
molecules form an egg-grate type mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the
paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth.
Due to this shape the
reflected light becomes somewhat distorted, this produces jetting sometimes
described as jetting (the so-called wet-look) It is a property that creates a
super rich shine with incredible depth and the illusion of wetness on the
surface, the better the quality and volume of refined wax the more pronounced
the effect of jetting.
Carnauba wax is inherently
hydroscopic when exposed to water; wax swells and closes its pores, which along
with surface tension, causes `water beading'. Carnauba wax provides better
protection from bird / insect excrement than a polymer. (See also Wax, Durability, and Melting
Point)
Things to look for
•
Clarity
•
Gloss
•
Ease of use (application and removal)
•
Durability
Ultra Violet Protection
[: organically modified
silica or organically modified silicate, used in a matrix material for
UV-protection coating]
Ultra violet radiation
stabilizers are a group of chemical agents with the ability to counteract or
neutralize the harmful effects of radiation.
Competitive absorbers provide protection by converting UV light to heat
so it can dissipate harmlessly. Other UV stabilizers work differently, but all
UV stabilizers are consumed as they do their job. In a way, they serve as
sacrificial molecules, taking the abuse from radiation instead of the material
they are protecting.
Ultra violet stabilizer - providing protection from ultra violet
radiation (UV) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading /
yellowing) ultra violet heat (IR) infrared radiation can also affect the
structural integrity of materials by drying out and therefore removing their
elasticity and causing cracks.
Be
cognizant that Carnauba wax or polymers do not contain a natural ultra violet
radiation protection, they both oxidize as a way of providing a sacrificial
protection against ultra violet radiation, neither of these elements contains
UV stabilizers (protection) they must be added. This renewable barrier is
probably less than 0.1 µ (4 Mils) thick.
Clear
coat paint (polyurethane) provides the colour and base coats with protection,
and usually has UV protection added in the final coating; this tends to migrate
towards the upper level of the clear coat (this is why it’s important to check
how much of the paint surface you are removing with an abrasive polish).
Best wax or Sealant
Is there a best? In my
opinion- No!
The answer to this question is not as easy as one would assume.
The aesthetics of a vehicle appearance is very subjective to say the least. The
question that should really be asked is “What is the best wax for my needs and
detailing goals? The only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks
'best' to you and meets the criteria you set for it.
While it’s true many of the
chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at
least very similar) having used a variety of different products, at various
cost levels,
I can tell one from another
and field testing shows that not all have the durability either, some simply
outperform others in many categories and react differently when applied to
different paint types, paint hardness, colour, or varied paint surface
conditions.
Often what is considered by
some to be ‘the best wax or sealant’ is either due to brand loyalty and / or an
emotive response. Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one
that best meets its user's objectives. If a product is not working for you
experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs.
Some products will maximise
metallic flake, others reflectivity, or depth of shine and colour richness
(wetting, also known as jetting). Factors such as durability are objective and
are an easily quantifiable part in the process.
There is no one product that
can produce all of the properties for an optically perfect shine, however; for
high surface gloss and surface reflectance-a polymer sealant, which also
provides durability. Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute
of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of
application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering
as well as strong cosmetic enhancement characteristics
a) For
depth of shine - Carnauba wax (also provides a sacrificial and easily renewable
barrier against airborne contaminants (Swissvax, Zymöl, and
Pinnacle Souverän especially on Red, Black and Yellow paint
b) For
clarity - long term durability and protection apply a polymer sealant (Zaino
Z2PRO™ + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive) to a carefully prepared
level, clean paint surface.
c)
Optically perfect shine – apply an optically clear polymer sealant and add a
Carnauba wax, a Glaze or Zaino Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal as a last step
product (LSP).
d) High heat conditions - a polymer sealant, one that includes a
UVR protection (Zaino) and
a sacrificial wax (Collinite (actually
a polymer/wax) Liquid Insulator Wax (No. 845) or G Techniq Crystal Lacquer 3S nanotech
e)
Harsh winter – Klasse All In One (AIO) Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG)
x 2, Collinite # 845 Liquid Insulator Wax or # 476s
Super Doublecoat Auto Wax x 2. If you apply a
final layer of wax without buffing it will provide more protection / durability
(especially for vehicle storage purposes). Collinite Marque D’ Elegance
(915) Wax for darker colours)
f) The final result can only be as good as the
surface it’s applied to. It really is all dependants upon, process over product; 85% surface
preparation, 5% product suitability, 7% application methodology and the balance
is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. The other variables are; a detailer’s
knowledge of the paint type, experience with a given product and skill level
and experience with machine polisher.
g) My
personal favourite organic waxes (in no particular order) -
Swissvax Concorso / Best of Show, Zymöl Vintage Estate Glaze, Pinnacle
Souverän™ Paste Carnauba Wax, P21S® (R222®) Carnauba Wax and Victoria Concours Red Wax
h) Use
a polymer for durability – use an organic wax for depth of shine- best of both
worlds, a polymer sealant with a Carnauba wax LSP
An organic wax also provides
a sacrificial surface that will resist acid (salt brine, bird excrement, acidic
rain, etc) better than a polymer, which forms a molecular bond with the paint,
whereas a an organic wax forms a semi-hard protective shell (although it lacks
durability)
Special
Waxes (Marque specific)
An organic wax, unlike a polymer, has no chemical interaction with paint; it forms a thin hard ‘shell’ as opposed to a polymer, which forms a molecular bond. A wax when it’s correctly applied as a thin translucent layer, this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ which is a barely visible film.
An organic wax, unlike a polymer, has no chemical interaction with paint; it forms a thin hard ‘shell’ as opposed to a polymer, which forms a molecular bond. A wax when it’s correctly applied as a thin translucent layer, this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ which is a barely visible film.
The base coat
or colour coat is applied and a clear coat is added to provide depth and
protection. Regardless of its original colour of the wax, any product applied
on top of the clear coat needs to be transparent otherwise the paint colour
will be muted, if you can see the colour of a wax on the paint surface it’s
applied too thickly
Claims that certain waxes are formulated and / or manufactured for specific paint types, paint colours or made specifically for a certain vehicle marquee or that they are matched to particular characteristics of individual paint systems has absolutely no factual chemical basis, I think it is merely marketing hype.
Claims that certain waxes are formulated and / or manufactured for specific paint types, paint colours or made specifically for a certain vehicle marquee or that they are matched to particular characteristics of individual paint systems has absolutely no factual chemical basis, I think it is merely marketing hype.
For example both Porsche and Ferrari
(amongst others) use Glasurit as their paint supplier, very different vehicle
manufacturers. How would a wax especially made for Italian paint (Zymöl Ital)
not work on a German Porsche?
The clear coat is the final original equipment manufacturers coating
applied to a vehicle to protect the (base) colour coat from environmental
damage, while providing both depth and a durable, glossy appearance, originally
designed to protect and enhance metallic paints, but is now applied to all
colours. Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be transparent
otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted.
An applied wax
protection is less than 0.1 µ;
so the suggestion that a coating this thin could change or even enhance a
colour doesn’t sound very plausible to me. Although waxes and polymers do have
differing light reflectance properties and differing paint colours will reflect
light differently according to their Light Reflective Value (LRV)
(See Light Reflection article)
I will concede
that some waxes look better when used on light or dark coloured paints. A wax
that is formulated with high oil content produces jetting or ripple effect (the
so-called ‘wet-look) by diffuse reflection and seems to enhance dark colours,
whereas higher polymer content will enhance light colours due to spatial
reflection, similar to water on a mirrored surface
Silicone (Siloxane)
Are polymers that include
silicone together with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and sometimes other chemical
elements, which provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier
system in polishes and waxes that makes them easier to apply and remove
When used in paints and
other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even
product distribution. It not silicone that you need worry about, just the
'type' (what it’s formulated with) you need to be aware of. Silicone oils
provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier system in polishes
and waxes that makes them easier to apply and remove
When used in paints and
other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even
product distribution. Silicones are primarily used to modify or improve certain
characteristics; they are sometimes added as a lubricant to provide spread
ability thereby making a product easier to apply. The automotive industry uses
silicones as component parts (see polymerisation) in its plastic, vinyl,
rubber, paints, and fibreglass as well as in polishes and waxes.
Light Reflectance
Specula
reflection - law of reflection
[: the direction of incoming light and the direction of outgoing light
reflected make the same angle with respect to the surface ‘normal’, thus the
angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection] the perfect, mirror-like
reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming
direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction]
[1]. The best example of specula reflection is seen when reflected from a flat
level surface a)
Diffuse
reflection – [:
incoming light is reflected in a broad range of directions] the
most familiar example of the distinction between specula and diffuse reflection
would be glossy and matte paints.
While both exhibit a combination
of specula and diffuse reflection, matte paints has a higher proportion of
diffuse reflection and glossy paints have a greater proportion of specula
reflection.
If the surface is perfectly
flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the subject. But if
there are imperfections such as swirls, orange peel, or oxidation (dull opaque
paint) light is refracted and the subject is distorted.
Reflectivity
[: Reflectivity is the fraction of incident radiation reflected
by a surface. In full generality it must be treated as a directional property
that is a function of the reflected direction] [1]
The oils that are formulated
in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, this distorts the light reflectance, giving
the surface the ‘look’ of liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting
a three-dimensional deep colour, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin wax, and some
synthetic waxes tend to occlude the
surface
Optimising light refraction
·
Apply product in ‘direction
of airflow’ to vertical surfaces roof to floor and then left to right, on
horizontal surfaces bumper to trunk and then left to right, over-lapping panels
to ensure complete coverage. Then apply in direction of airflow, horizontal
surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application
technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction
and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle.
·
Paint
cleaning - for a pristine paint film surface after the application of
detailer’s clay or polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse
All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any
grease or other residue, this will ensure durability
·
Conduct
a ‘swipe test’ and then remove excess product; be sure that the surface of the
vehicle can be left undisturbed from rain and water (this includes QD sprays as
they comprise approx. 90% water) for 12-24 hours to enable cross-linking or the
surface protection may be compromised.
Colour,
Depth and Clarity
Are the three factors
Concours d'Elegance judges look for when scrutinizing paint film surfaces. So
much depends on proper surface preparation, a clean and level surface, and
product clarity, which allow the natural properties of the paint to show
through, as without transparency the true colours of the paint surface cannot
be seen.
Waxing a surface that has not been properly cleaned will only result
in a shiny layer over dull, dirty paint - not the deep smooth, optically
perfect crystalline shine that is obtainable
Shine
A perfectly ‘flat’ levelled
surface is obtained by polishing the paint surface. Shine an easily understood
concept of light reflection / refraction (in simple terms the light reflectance
from a mirror) I wanted to expand that concept so that the shine would be
optically perfect as well as multi-dimensional. The bright shine of a polymer
sealant is often criticized as being “sterile” (a flat silvery-white
reflection) good reflective properties but without ‘depth’.
Clear
coat
Is applied over the colour coat
to provide, protection, and gloss and to allow its colour to be seen; waxing
over a paint surface that hasn’t been properly cleaned will only result in a
shiny layer over dull, dirty paint - not the deep smooth, optically perfect
crystalline shine that is obtainable. Without clarity the true colour of the
paint cannot be seen, only a muted version of its colour.
The
fact that Carnauba wax isn’t optically clear is an advantage on some solid
colours as it artificially deepens or darkens the colour. There is an issue
with metallic as many Carnauba waxes tend to mute metallic flakes.
Gloss
The lustre or shininess of
paints and coatings; different types of gloss are frequently arbitrarily
differentiated, such as sheen, distinctness-of-image gloss, etc.
The oils that are formulated
in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the
surface) this distorts the light reflectance, giving the surface the ‘look’ of
depth or liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting a three-dimensional
deep, rich colour, providing strong cosmetic enhancement characteristics.
There
are specialized instruments to test, measure and determine the amount of gloss
created by polishes and waxes (Gloss Meters). But a machine can only give an indicative
result; it can’t fully measure all of the (perceived) visual dimensions
produced by car care products on automotive finishes (some of which are
emotional as opposed to logical responses).
Depth
Iridescence occurs due to
the internal reflection of light within a transparent film or layer of
material, where the thickness of the film or layer is of the order of the
wavelength of the incident light.
Where the wavelength of the
light matches or is a low multiple of the path length through the layer it will
re-emerge from the layer after a single reflection but where the wavelength is
different to the path length it will be re-reflected within the layer until it
emerges after several internal reflections. Changing your viewpoint changes the
path length through the layer and this means that a different wavelength or
colour of light will seem to be reflected.
Jetting
Sometimes called optical depth comes from an applied product
that is two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a high and low
source, the light waves are distorted (diffuse reflection) which creates a three
dimensional illusion of depth to produce jetting (a rippling effect, the
so-called ‘wet-look)
The oils that are formulated
in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, this distorts the light reflectance, giving
the surface the ‘look’ of liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting
a three-dimensional deep colour, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin wax, and some
synthetic waxes tend to occlude the
surface
Gloss Meter
The KSJ Institute of Photoelectrical
Instruments Stargloss Multi Angle
(MG268-F2) gloss meter is a precision instrument that measures gloss, available in two
models of 60° and 20°/60°. The 60° angle
is suitable for all paint coatings. The 20°
angle gives improved differentiation of measurement on high gloss coatings
above 70 gloss units.
The gloss value is determined by
directing a light, which has a similar wavelength to the human eye, at a
specific angle to the test surface and measuring the amount of specular
reflection.
The optics is set in an aluminium
block giving optical bench accuracy and stability. To ensure international
standard compliance, the light source is supplied from long-life tungsten
halogen lamps.
Place the gloss meter on the surface
to be measured, press the required angle button and the gloss reading will
appear on the display. This reading will be held until another reading is
taken.
Trade practice recognizes
the following gloss levels, in increasing order of gloss: flat (or matte) practically free from sheen, even when viewed from
oblique angles (usually less than 15 on 60-degree
meter); eggshell-
usually 20-35 on 60-degree meter; semi-gloss-usually
35-70 on 60-degree meter; full-gloss-smooth
and almost mirror-like surface when viewed from all angles, usually above 70 on
60-degree meter.
The instrument will automatically
switch off when not in use. Easy to read two-line alphanumeric display with
back lighting, powered by internal rechargeable batteries, battery voltage can
be checked on the display. French, Spanish and German language versions are
available on request (approx $1100) - http://www.ksj.cn/product.asp?lang=en&gclid=COjxpZHL9KUCFQUTfAodhHyhwQ
Notes:
1.
It
cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product
removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
2.
Polymer
sealants require that you apply a very thin coating; this is best accomplished
with a soft foam pad and a random orbital polisher
3.
If
you apply a product over a surface that is dirty or one that has surface
imperfections a wax or sealant will not disguise it, only highlight them
(providing the applied product is optically clear).
Dark Field Micro Inspection:
Since concourse cars are
judged solely on the way light reflects from their surfaces this is what really
determines the appearance of a car, so you should inspect it under all possible
lighting conditions.
For a surface to be
optically near ‘perfect’ it should be free of all surface imperfections. The
surface should be viewed very closely and from all possible angles. Start by
looking at the surface in a darkened room, once your eyes have fully diluted,
turn on a bright Halogen light beam. Direct the beam away from you and at a low
angle and from various directions (you’ll be able to see even the most minor
paint film surface imperfection) this is 100X more sensitive than viewing a
vehicles paint film surface in normal light.
This viewing technique is an
adaptation of “Dark field microscopy” used in many scientific fields. Direct or
cloudy sunlight, shaded, low-angled, directly overhead or light reflected from
other surfaces, or the type of artificial light the surface is viewed under can
all influence what surface imperfections can or cannot be seen (See
also 3M Sun Gun ®)
Wax and Glaze ‘Set-up’
Carnauba in today's wax
formulas functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils
on your car's surface. When applied to a surface will not adhere properly due
to its low surface tension, solvents and miscible oils are added to enable it
to spread evenly to the surface. Natural and synthetic wax and glazes initially
adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is that it
works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) and the polymers
into the microscopic gaps and a valley of the paint film surface.
Or in the case of a wax over
a polymer sealant- the polymers form a bond, thereby creating a mechanical
anchor, a wax doesn’t form a true covalent (molecular) bond to the surface,
this is due to its limited polymer content, but forms a hard shell over the
surface; the process involves the solvents outgas (evaporating), the wax
hardening/setting and the small % of polymers forming a bond with another polymer
(urethane paint or a sealant). This process is time, temperature and humidity
dependent; after sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your
finger, if no smearing or drag is evident; the residue is ready to be removed.
Suggested application method - wipe on, do a swipe test, wipe off
Polymer / Wax Bonding
Carnauba
wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on
top of Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.
Although
I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils
will abort the cross linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the
process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability maybe affected.
(See also Cross-linking and
Adherence)
Inorganic / synthetic wax is
usually formulated with polymers that have high surface tension and form a
strong molecular bond with the paint surface or the polymers, the wax will
migrate to form a top layer.
Organic waxes
initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the adherence process is
that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and / or oils) into the
microscopic gaps and valleys of the paint film surface thereby creating a
mechanical anchor. An organic wax, unlike a polymer, has no chemical
interaction (molecular bonding) with paint.
Using a micro fibre towel
Fold the towel into four
quarters when using towels; it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all
visible contamination is removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables
you to clean almost everything with just the towel and hot water. They
eliminate the need to carry around different cleaners for different uses. These
cloths are a great environmentally friendly healthy alternative to cleaning
with chemicals.
What is equally important
with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned
frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in half
again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then
flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start
to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section.
With it folded properly
you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually
takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to
clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry (See Micro Fibre Washing / Care)
Product Directional Application
Abrasive Polish
These products contain
abrasives and should be applied in straight-line motions (Forget what Mr.
Miyagi was teaching the Karate Kid) circular motions will cause circular
directional marks (swirl marks) When an abrasive is applied by hand the
pressure applied is uneven and the reflected light highlights the paint films
surface peaks and valleys differently.
Sealant, Glaze or Wax
Are all non-abrasive so
direction of application won’t cause directional marks to the surface; if you
find micro-marring on your paint surface the problem is more likely to be
either insufficient surface preparation or dirt / grit debris on your
applicator
If there is grit on the
paint surface or on the applicator a circular swirl or scratch is much easier
to see (catches light more often) than one small straight scratch; that’s why I
often recommend straight application.
An Optically perfect shine
Comes from a clean, prepared
and level surface; it improves the desired optical properties i.e. surface
reflectance. The other requirements are surface gloss, depth of shine and
applied product transparency (clarity), which allows all of the components of
an optically perfect shine to be visible.
Paint
Preparation (before applying a wax)
for a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or
polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner, or what used to be called ‘pre-wax
cleaners’ (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is
clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will
ensure surface adhesion and enhance durability
• The
best light reflection is obtained from a perfectly flat highly reflective
surface, i.e. glass over a silver metallic material –a mirror
• A
polish would need to level a paint surface; this will provide a surface without
distortion
• To
provide protection to our theoretically perfectly distortion-free surface we
would need to apply a wax or a polymer sealant, which in turn would need to be
optically clear
An optically perfect
crystalline shine is the result of combining a polymer sealant for its
reflective shine properties with a Carnaubas three-dimensional jetting
properties.
The oils that are formulated
in Carnauba waxes provide gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the
surface) this distorts the light reflectance, giving the surface the ‘look’ of
rippling liquidity, like a mirror in shallow water reflecting a
three-dimensional deep, rich colour, in contrast, bees wax, paraffin and many
synthetic waxes and polymer sealants tend to occlude (yellow)
The aesthetics- of a
vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or
sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis
it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the
balance is pure emotion
In obtaining the ‘optically
perfect shine’ we should be equally concerned with ease of application,
resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering. Products
should be chosen that would carefully balance each of these considerations
without focusing on one specific characteristic. A surface protection with a
spectacular shine but limited durability just doesn’t make sense.
a) Requirements:
•
Clean-washed to remove oxidation, surface dirt and grime, tar
and road film
•
Reflectivity – that comes from a clean and level surface
•
Gloss-that comes from oils and polymers with their ability to reflect light with a minimum of
light diffusion to produce surface shine
•
Optical depth-comes from an applied product that is
two-dimensional, so that light is reflected from both a high and low source,
(i.e. a Carnauba waxes ‘egg-grate’ type structure) as opposed to a polymer
elongated and flat ‘chain-link’ type mesh, which ‘distorts’ reflected light to
produce a rippling effect (warmth)
•
Optimising light refraction -apply product in ‘direction of
airflow’, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back.
This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising
light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the
vehicle
•
Transparency-or clarity of the applied product, which will
enable all the above components to be clearly visible
b) Contributing factors:
•
Cleaned- using a mildly alkaline (pH 7.5) car wash concentrates
to remove surface road dirt and grime and then- using detailer’s clay to remove
ingrained pollution from the paint surface, and a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse
All-In-One) to prepare the surface for a polymer sealant and a Carnauba
wax.
•
Polished-removal of minor blemishes, surface scratches, swirl
marks and water marks with an abrasive machine polish or compound (Menzerna) to
provide a level surface.
A machine polish should remove surface imperfections and swirl
marks, contain oils for lubrication and should not leave residue that requires
extensive ‘clean-up’ to remove hazing, its solvents should evaporate moderately
quickly without leaving excess wax/oils behind, and lastly should buff
relatively easily.
•
Glazed- to obtain a high gloss by providing the necessary oils
and burnishing the paint surface to a high optically clear gloss
•
Protected- the polymers carrier system (solvents) allows the
product to fill and level the paint film surface to produce an ultra-flat
surface while proving durable surface protection. A polymer (Zanio
Z2PRO™) with its levels of shine, gloss, clarity, reflectivity, depth
and 99% optical clarity, which doesn’t distort or detract from the paints
colour or lines of the vehicle.
•
Waxed-the applications of Carnauba (Pinnacle
Souverän™ Paste Wax) that will provide oils to provide a ‘wet-look’ to the surface
and will also provide a transparent surface when layered without yellowing or
discoloration, with a depth of shine by providing a two-dimensional surface.
•
Light coloured paint -i.e. Silver, White, etc (the exception is
speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or
dark colours as they do not exhibit
visible depth, light colours tends to reflect light instead of absorbing it and
providing a 2-dimentional look.
•
You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality
and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned, polished and a
polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeff Werkstatt -
Acrylic Jett ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but
without ‘depth’ the exception is Zaino Clear Seal, Z-CS).
•
By adding a Carnauba wax or a Glaze as an LSP (Pinnacle
Souverän™ Paste Wax or Autoglym Super Resin Polish or Danase
Wet Glaze) the oils and / or polymers that are formulated in the Carnauba
waxes provide a reflective gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the
surface) For optimal results the surface of a light coloured paint to show
gloss is very much dependent upon good / excellent paint condition, adequately
prepped to remove contaminants and minor imperfections. Detailer’s clay (Sonus
SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay Bar) and / or Paint cleaner (Zaino PC or Klasse
AIO) should be a regular part of the preparation process.
•
The perfect 100% cotton buffing towels, the more you wash them,
the softer they become, to guarantee a perfect buffing result. Wash before use.
Swisswax 100% cotton towel
Zymöl
[:'enZYMatic emOLient']
Zymöl also
put a special enzyme in their waxes to assure that the carnauba does not
"bond" in the container. Only when exposed to fresh air then it
becomes a "wax" and then starts bonding to your car's paint surface.
Carnauba acts in a unique
way by swelling and closing its pores when exposed to water. It will also
dramatically reduce paint oxidation by diffusing the UV and infrared radiation
from the sun, which would normally dull a car's paint finish over time.
After many years of Concours
d’élégance vehicle preparation I came to realize that there was more to shine
than just light reflection. Some colours, black, red, dark blue, deep yellow
for example, look better with this deeper, darker, jetting (wet-like) shine. I
owned a dark blue Mercedes Benz and wanted colour, depth and clarity from a
wax.
So I purchased Zymöl Vintage Glaze ™ wax.
Zymöl Destiny also gave the paint a great deep gloss; I didn’t want a
bright shine but rather a deeper, darker shine. My car's paint rippled like it
was a mirror submerged in water. I would have to say that
Zymöl Vintage Glaze™ is the most optically
clear Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; it’s got to be seen to
be believed
Zymöl Waxes
|
Weight
|
%
Carnauba By Volume
|
%
Yellow Carnauba
|
%
White Carnauba
|
Creame & Carbon
|
226g
|
33%
|
100%
|
|
Titanium
|
226g
|
51%
|
80%
|
20%
|
Concours
|
226g
|
47%
|
10%
|
90%
|
Destiny
|
226g
|
51%
|
|
100%
|
226g
|
60%
|
|
100%
|
|
Vintage
|
523g
|
61%
|
|
100%
|
Royale
|
1412g
|
70%
|
|
100%
|
Percentage of wax content
Carnauba wax
is considered to be the world’s purest, hardest and most transparent natural
wax repellent derived from the Brazilian palm Copernia Cerefera
Marketing propagates the
myth that increasing the Carnauba content of a wax will make the wax
"better". This is marginally true at best. Increasing the Carnauba
content up to a point (30 to 37%), will increase the waxes durability but will
not affect the shine. If the Carnauba content is too high (40% or more), the
result is a rock-hard, wax brick.
You simply would not be able
to apply it to a vehicle! Be wary of manufacturers that claim high (40 %+) wax
contents. They are either lying or they include softer, cheaper waxes (beeswax,
Môntan wax, Palm wax or paraffin wax) in their formula.
When making a comparison
ensure you compare like with like (i.e.
% volume or %
weight) as some Carnauba percentages refer to % of Carnauba as a
proportion of wax content only ( i.e. 70% carnauba, 30% beeswax). Wax in itself
will not produce a gloss or shine; wax is a dull substance that provides
protection, and will not produce gloss without the addition of an additive
(oils, silicones, etc) which will produce a reflective gloss, jetting (the so
called ‘wet-look) or depth.
Carnauba weighs twice as
much as solvent. For example, a 50% or more carnauba content by volume is
actually slightly more than 30% by weight. Most carnaubas advertised with 50%
or "more" in carnauba content are truly advertising a weight, not a
volume.
A Carnauba wax
needs to have clarity to enable the base coat colour to be seen. Most wax
products use an unrefined yellow wax (plus emulsifiers, fillers (Diatomaceous
earth) and solvents)
As far as
percentage of wax the lower percentage will ensure surface clarity and as the
yellow Carnauba percentage increases surface clarity will depreciate. Most
yellow wax products contain 15-20 % Carnauba wax by weight
Since Carnauba wax exhibits
the qualities that Concours d’élégance vehicle preparation detailers and judges
look; Colour, Depth and Clarity, when
scrutinizing paint film surfaces. So much depends on proper surface preparation,
a clean and level surface, and product clarity, which allow the natural
properties of the paint to show through, as without transparency the true
colours of the paint surface cannot be seen.
Carnauba wax
gives a rich, deep, wet looking shine, as well as a higher content % to give
off more added surface protection for the solution to a higher wax content is
to ensure clarity with a refined ivory Carnauba (the so-called ‘# 1 white’)
which varies from a very pale yellow (so called ‘white’), through a greenish
brown (yellow) higher quality emulsifier and solvent are also needed, with less
fillers as these will lessen clarity.
Only a small portion of your
vehicle's shine comes from the wax itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with
only minimal light reflection. Maximum shine comes from a clean, prepared and
level surface; it improves the desired optical properties i.e. surface
reflectance quoting Carnauba
wax content percentage is irrelevant because it really isn't important
1.
.Zymöl - Royale Glaze contains 70% Brazilian No.1
White Carnauba by volume.
2.
Swissvax - Divine™ containing over 60% by
volume of ultra pure Brazilian white carnauba
3.
Swissvax Crystal Rock - 76% by wax volume of pure
Brazilian ivory carnauba wax
This level of product should
only be used if proper car care techniques are maintained and the owner, of the
vehicle, has a genuine interest to detailing to perfection. Anything less would
be an exhausting waste of a person’s time and money with the end result being a
disheartening failure.
Would you spend $30,000 on car wax?
How much do you typically pay for a
jar of car wax, 50 or $100? How does $30,000 sound? No, that's not a typo, but
it is what automotive wax producer Zymöl is charging for its Solaris Glaze car
wax. It comes in a pyramid-shaped solar-activated container, I’m not entirely
sure if its purpose, although it looks good and maybe that’s it. Only 25
containers of Solaris Glaze will be produced and each includes a gold mixing
spoon and is refillable for life. Even at this price it very quickly sold out,
which speaks volumes for the marketing of a product
With organic waxes you reach a
certain price point, usually over $200, when you are not just paying for the
basic ingredients anymore. Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.
Bringing a new product to market can
cost upwards of $45,000. The set price point of a high dollar wax has to
recuperate:
-
R&D costs, the so called speciality waxes or a glaze usually sells
in small numbers
-
Product packaging, usually eye catching and expensive
-
Marketing cost are high as the product needs to appeal to an exclusive
market segment
-
Vendor mark-up, due to low volume sales this is usually much higher than
for other products
-
A higher than average price tends to add to the elitist or exclusivity
factor
-
Carnauba % content is a very inaccurate method to assess overall
performance or value
Then there is the luxury effect and products uniqueness. Mr Royce said
this about the price charged for RR automobiles [The
price charged is whatever the market will stand]
There are of course some
less expensive (a somewhat relevant term as used in this context) Zymöl
- Royale $13000, Zymöl Vintage Glaze is the most optically clear
Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; it’s got to be seen to be
believed $3500, Zymöl
Atlantique Glaze $1800, Swissvax- Crystal Rock $1265, Swissvax Divine $3325, Swissvax
Concorso $280
On the morning
after, it's time to take leave of our hearts, return to our heads and take
another look. In the final analysis; a
wax or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level
well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces
reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity.
There are a few waxes that
will supply the same overall look (although this is very subjective) P21S
Carnauba Wax and Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba Paste Wax;
these are probably the best waxes out there that
are way beyond their price bracket in terms of aesthetics.
I would have to say that of
all the waxes I've tried Zymöl Vintage Glaze is the most optically clear
(exhibits Colour, Depth and
Clarity) Carnauba wax I’ve used, applied with bare hands; its aesthetics have got to be seen first to be
believed.
Hazing (Wax / Polymer Sealant)
Smearing or a dull look to
the paint film surface after removing residue usually occurs when there is an
excess of product applied in high humidity conditions and moisture is trapped
between the fast drying top layer and the lower layer of the hydroscopic wax.
The paint films surface
temperature being cooler than the outside air accelerates this process by
allowing the top layer of wax to harden before the lower level. To avoid this
allow more time for the wax to completely set-up (dry) before removal.
Alternatively lightly spray
the surface with distilled water, the excess wax will adhere to the water
droplets and can then be wiped away with Swissvax 100% cotton micro fibre towel
Carnauba wax will bond to a
cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax
the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised (there is an exception to this
rule; Zaino Clear Seal (Z-CS) will bond to a wax / glaze
and ‘seal’ it) Carnauba wax dries to a deep, natural shine, in contrast, bees
wax, paraffin and many synthetic waxes, which tend to occlude (cloud or
yellowing).
Paint and Wax Molecules
Wax molecules are
(relatively, as we’re talking microns) larger than those of a cross linked
paint; water molecules are smaller than paint molecules so it can permeate a
paint system. Solvents molecules are smaller on a molecular level than wax,
paint or water. A polymer, unlike wax forms a molecular bond with paint once
it’s had enough time to cross-linking (usually 12 – 24 hours)
Carnauba wax over a Polymer sealant
Some detailers find that a
polymer sealant tends have a flat, silvered mirror look. Adding a Carnauba wax
to the surface provides depth of shine, gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet
look’) and a warmth to the paint surfaces overall look.
Bear in mind that how a
paint surface ‘looks’ is very subjective and tends to invoke an emotional
reaction rather than a logical one 95% of an applied wax comprises out gassed
solvent that is wiped away, whereas 65% of a polymer sealant that is applied
remains.
Detailers who prepare show
cars will often layer a Carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax; the synthetic
wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking
(jetting) appearance
Polymer sealants
Need a porous surface to
bond to, they initially adhere by surface tension and then after a period in
which the solvents /oils in the carrier system vaporize (outgas) the polymers
cross-link to form a covalent (molecular) bond to the surface. This process
usually requires 12-24 hours, which are time and temperature and / or humidity
dependent.
As can be seen from the
above a polymer must form a molecular bond with the paint surface before the
application of a Carnauba wax, otherwise the solvents that are formulated in
the wax may compromise the bonding and durability of the polymer sealant
A wax or sealant can only
reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level well-prepared surface is the
most important consideration (85% of a surfaces reflectivity is its
preparation) along with applied product clarity.
Catalyzing Additives
Polycharger - all modern car
waxes and paint sealants use polymer technology for shine and protection.
Polymers are long molecules capable of interlinking to form a mesh type matrix.
This interlocking capability, called cross-linking, is what gives polymers
their strength and durability, most waxes do not fully cross-link with the
paint film surface.
A Polycharger additive is both a
polymer booster and catalyzing agent; the booster component adds two polymers
designed for high temperature and high corrosive environments. When introduced
to oxygen, the catalyzing agent activates polymers in their liquid state,
forcing cross-linking to begin immediately.
There are two different formulations;
Polycharger CH2 for solvent-based liquid waxes and Polycharger H2O for water-based
liquid wax products (including most quick detailing (QD) sprays).
Chemical Guy’s
Vertu-Bond 408 - lightly cleanses dead, dull, oxidized paint and light minor
oxidization, moderate surface scratches, accumulated road film, tar and
calcium/acid rain deposits. Revives original paint lustre, formulated with
essential oils to restore and enrich paint leaving a wet, glossy, surfaces that
are superiorly prepped for sealant or wax application.
Product Application
1. An
abrasive polish and a foam or wool pad are used to remove surface scratches. A
machine polisher (Random orbital or Circular motion) is the best tool to carry
out this type of process.
2.
Waxes (organic or synthetic) are best removed with a foam applicator.
3.
Polymer sealants require that you apply a very thin coating; this is best
accomplished with a soft foam pad and a random orbital polisher
4. Apply your coating
in two thin layers; not a single heavy coat; ensure the first layer is
thoroughly dry before you apply the second (this is used to ensure complete
surface coverage).
Paint Preparation (before
applying a wax)
For a
pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or
polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner, or what used to be called ‘pre-wax
cleaners’ (Zaino
or Klasse All-In-One) to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of
any grease or other residue, this will ensure surface adhesion and enhance
durability. Pre-wax cleaners have been superseded by many detailers by
utilizing a wipe-down process (Isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
Zaino
Custom Polish Applicator – a specially designed
100% virgin cotton polish applicator,
approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to
prevent scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features
the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a
special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a
light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will
make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.
After use, hand wash applicator using Liquid All or Tide and let air dry. Swipe
Test
The most common mistakes
made when waxing or applying a sealant to apply too much product and removing
it too soon. After sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your
finger, if no smearing or drag is evident; and the swipe is clear and glossy,
and then you know the wax or sealant is dry and you can begin the simple task
of wiping it off.
Removing Wax Stains from Trim
Most polishes, waxes and sealants
will white stain mouldings if allowed to dry on the surface. Wax build up can
be removed with a degreaser, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or Wax Blaster a safe water-based
solvent that will not harm paint or clear coat finishes; quickly, easily and
permanently removing embedded wax residues in textured bumpers, matt-finish
vinyl panels, and trim mouldings and glass weather-stripping. It has a
foam-tipped applicator that gently scrubs wax out of deep texture and crevices,
this will dissolve the wax, not just cover it up
Apply your coating in two thin layers;
not a single heavy coat; ensure the first layer is thoroughly dry before you
apply the second. For very small places (rubber surrounds and weather-stripping) use Iz einszett Gummi
stick and a credit card wrapped with a micro fibre towel with wax blaster on the
towel
How Temperatures affect Detailing
Detailing products should be
applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature
of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF
(26.oC)
The other climate related
condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct
sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to
ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it
ineffective.
·
Surface Temperature (actual surface temperature of the vehicle)
between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC) products
will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. > 45. °F to
< 90.° F (4.5-32.oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer
to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be
achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21.oC) range.
·
Most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot
surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.
·
The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface
lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches
·
A hot surface temperature will cause the car wash concentrates
to dry out and when rinsing the surface will cause rapid drying , which will
leave water spots
·
Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will
lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once
they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the
engine block structurally fail.
·
The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e.
defrosting ice from a windscreen)
·
Cold ambient temperatures
(40.°F >) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc)
will be negatively affected at lower
temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during
lower temp conditions, causing the polish to 'clump' and become unworkable
Fracture/evaporation temperatures
[: the melting point of a solid is the
temperature range at which it changes state from solid to liquid. At the
melting point the solid and liquid phase exists in equilibrium.] [1]
Polymers (including Acrylic
polymers) 350.°F, Silicone oil 350.°F, Mineral oils 200.°F, Synthetic blends
(Carnauba wax / polymers) 200.°F, Carnauba wax 183.°F, Bee’s wax 130.°F in
actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from
the radiation causes wax compounds to melt.
For example, painted
surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85. °F in direct sunlight will
obtain a temperature of 195. °F or more. It should be noted that there is a
range of temperatures at which melting begins and that the 'melting point' is
the end point of that range
The most important thing to
be aware of when preparing to wax your car is the temperature of the actual
surface area being waxed. This is even more important than the ambient
temperature, which should be between 50° and 80. °F (10° - 26.7. °C) Higher
temperatures will cause the solvents to flash leaving a ‘hard’ wax on the paint
surface that is very difficult to remove. If the car has been in the sun for
any time, it should be brought into the shade and allowed to cool off before
applying any wax or glaze. Applying wax when the temperature is less than 60.°F
could result in streaking or difficulty in removing it from the surface.
Storage (Product)
[Store waxes and glazes in a cool dark
place preferably refrigerated. Warm them to room temperature overnight before
use] Zymöl
All car acre products are
negatively impacted by wide temperature fluctuations and extremes of high or
low temperatures. As far as wax storage is concerned standard room temperature
will suffice; a refrigerator provides a stable temperature / humidity, which
equates to a longer shelf life to the products.
Water-based car care
products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.OF (wax
45.OF) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore
unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.OF with an average
humidity range. Most car care products have a ‘useful life’ of approximately
2-3 years provided they are stored as above.
Keep containers tightly closed
and ensure they are not compromised (fractured or leaking seals) store in a
dry, cool and well-ventilated place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Do not
allow to freeze. Do
not store at temperature extremes (below 40 – over 80.OF +) as heat
will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc)
Avoid extreme
temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable, which will create
problems with the performance of the product. Some separate out; others lose
their effectiveness if they are heated past a certain point. Most car care
products will separate and may become unusable after being subjected to
freezing temperatures
The chemical composition of
waxes rarely ever change regardless of what form it is in, whether it is melted
to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid. Temperature has little to no
effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax, a cool temperatures and
constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping
the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.
Shelf-Life
Providing their contains
have a tight seal, are not compromised by fractures or (air) leaks, and use at
least a single stage fluorination of the plastic, so that it is resistant to petrochemical solvents;
without this the sides will ‘collapse’, which is actually the solvents in the
product escaping through the micro pores of the plastic.
All liquid products should
be shaken well before use and stored in light resistant containers
a) Polymers have a shelf life of approx
3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at temperatures as
above
b) Nanotechnology
coatings - should be stored in tightly sealed
containers and protected from heat and moisture. Recommended storage
temperatures are 30. ° - 122. °.F Shelf life is approximately 12 months,
provided the material is stored in sealed in its original containers, between
65. ° - 75. °.F.
c)
Polish - technically 2
years, providing the bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated
or the solvents haven’t evaporated by
leaching ( the bottle will become semi- collapsed) there should be no problem
with use for three years after sale date
d) Waxes - will last almost
indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original
containers and in the refrigerator or controlled environment once opened. The
liquids should last 18 months if stored at normal room temperature.
e) Detailing Chemicals (Wheel cleaners, All
purpose cleaners (APC) and etc) have an almost indefinite shelf life if kept in
their original containers and stored at temperatures as above, see also Product
separation
f) Product separation - if
product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily
past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product
re- mixes.
Product shelf -life may vary from one
manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg or vendor.
Using Micro fibre
The first thing you should
do when you get a new micro fibre towel is to wash and dry it. During the
manufacturing process the fabric has a tendency to become flat and it might
have picked up contaminants from the air and machinery. There will also be a
number of loose threads that, while they cause no harm, can be annoying the
first time you use the towel. Some towel manufacturer’s
use a chemical to make the fabric soft, theses chemicals should be removed by
washing
Only use liquid detergents;
never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and
become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are
cleaning. (See also Micro fibre Care)
There are many
towel edge treatments including over- locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut,
ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many
other combinations of style and material, but nearly all of them will cause
scratching. Either use borderless or fold the towel so the border is on the
inside
Methodology
- When using microfiber towels, it’s best to wipe in a single
direction until all visible dust and contamination is removed, flipping the
towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost everything with just
the towel and hot water. They eliminate the need to carry around different
cleaners for different uses. These cloths are a great environmentally friendly
healthy alternative to cleaning with chemicals.
What is equally important
with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned
frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in
half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then
flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start
to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section. With
it folded properly you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out
of it. It usually takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you
are ready to clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry
Using a Foam Applicator
To apply wax
without surface abrasion use soft foam (80 PPI) Lake County CCS Wax Applicator is the excellent tool. Applying wax has
never been easier. There are waxes that need to be applied with bare hands, but
for other paste waxes use the above foam pad applicator.
Lake County
CCS Wax Applicator – the
collapsed cell structure foam pad is designed to comfortably and naturally fit
in your hands. With increased pressure to the foam pad more product is applied
to the surface; this translates to a more even application and more efficient
use of the product.
Applying Paste Wax
1.
Always apply to a freshly washed, clean (detailer’s clay) and
dry paint surface
2.
Dip applicator into wax
container with a gentle wiping motion to get a small amount of wax on your
(damp or dry, see mfg instructions) foam or micro fibre towel applicator, then
using a flat hand (not finger tips) and light pressure rub it onto your car in
a thin coat
3.
Always apply wax in a thin, repeat, thin layer (See note 4) two
overlapping coats will ensure complete coverage (for
multi-layer application see Spit-shine)
4.
Using a clean, slightly damp (See note 1)100% cotton micro fibre
towel, gently wipe it across the paste wax
5.
Fold the towel in half and rub the two halves together to evenly
dispense the wax
6.
Overlap each working area to ensure an even coverage, since your
spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel
7.
Gently apply the wax thinly and evenly over your working area
8.
After a panel has been applied, do a wipe test (See note 2) the
wax residue with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (See note 3)
9.
Repeat steps 1 through 5 until your entire vehicle has been
waxed
10.
I use a random orbital, set on a low speed to ensure the
solvents don’t ‘flash’ prematurely, to
apply wax / sealant for two reasons, it applies a thin even (providing pressure
used is consistent) overlapping layer as it mimics hand application due to its
inherent oscillating motion, and it’s easier and more efficient
11.
A good technique with high Carnauba wax content waxes is to buff
the wax with a Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel as a polyester /
polyamide Microfiber towel will remove too much of the wax due to the way they
are constructed) and then spritz the paintwork with very cold distilled water
and wipe down; this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss.
12.
Allow the solvents to flash / dry (vaporize or outgas) in the
sun’s heat (approx 1 hour, dependent upon environmental temperature) and then
buff to a gloss (See note 2) using a Swisswax 100% cotton micro fibre towel. (See also “Hand Application” and
“Layering”)
As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages.
1.
The first stage is the application of the liquid product;
friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are
lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into
the applicator.
2.
The solvent carrier system is too ensure the wax remains
semi-solid (i.e. spreadable) to find out if the solvents have out gassed
(vaporised) run your finer along the panel, if it is dry the wax is ready to
be buffed
3.
The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where
the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers
behind to dry and set-up on the paint, leaving a hard shell type protection
4.
Next you remove the excess with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel
(See note 5). Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away
with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a
s light buff to bring out its gloss
5.
Allow the solvents to
flash / dry (vaporize or outgas) in the sun’s heat (approx 1 hour, dependent
upon environmental temperature) and then buff to a gloss
Detailers Tip
It cannot be emphasized
enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely
proportional to the amount used
After conducting a
swipe-test and removing residue; park the newly waxed vehicle in the sun (or
heated garage) and wait three to four hours, which will be dependent upon
ambient temperature / humidity, this is to ensure solvents outgas (evaporation)
and then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the shine, you’ll notice both
the chroma (intensity level or richness of a colour) and a deepening of the
shine, then lightly buff the paint again to perfect the gloss.
Notes:
1. Because a dry cloth absorbs liquids, application with a dry
cloth will result in the absorption of the wax as opposed to spreading it on
the surface, use a damp applicator (similar process to pad priming)
2. A Microfiber towel made from polyester (the scrubbing and
cleaning fibre), and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) will
adsorb (hold onto) liquids due to its inherent properties, their unique wedge
shape of the cross-section of each of the fibres, which enables them to slice
into coatings lifting and removing them from the surface (much like a miniature
squeegee) as they are wiped across the surface.
3. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the
reason polyester appears to adsorb liquids is the many thousands of micro
fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids.
4. The correct method for the application of a wax and to obtain
optimum results: is to apply it very thinly. Ease of product removal is
inversely proportional to the amount used.
5. Buffing - Swissvax 100% cotton micro fibre towel with a
terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural
looped terrycloth or velour, were the loops are trimmed to produce a blunt fine
nap, which is ideal for removing wax and for
final surface buffing
Wash Applicators after use
Always wash applicators as
soon as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the wax / polish
contaminants will set. The chemicals used in car care products will negatively
affect the fibres structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful
life. Residual chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will
cause scratches. Do not use bleach or high alkaline cleaning products as they
will shorten the life of your applicators and/or micro fibre. P12S Total Auto Wash is a d-limonene –based
(citrus) cleaner; allow to soak in hot water (120.oF) rinse thoroughly and
allow to dry
Thickness of applied Coating
This barrier is all that
stands between the environmental contaminants (ultra violet radiation, acid
rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc) and the paint
film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 1-0.5 µ (0.004 –
0.02 Mil) thick
Anti-Static
Static [the process causes electrons to be
pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the
other material]
Static electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low
humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each
other (friction).Using products that do not contain oils (i.e. polymer
sealants) will help by not attracting dust.
Finish Kare's 425 quick detailer (QD) has in-built
anti-static properties. A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently
anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by friction using a
polyester Microfiber towel on a polythene clear coat
Removing Wax / Sealants
Water, being hydrophilic
adheres to micro fibre; in comparison to cotton, a Micro (polyamide) fibre will
absorb 98% liquids and moisture, while cotton can only absorb 70% at most
The polyester and polyamide
content of Microfiber is typically; a blend of 80% polyester (a scrubbing
fibre) and 20% polyamide (an absorbing fibre).The nature of this yarn is that
it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many
thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate.
a)
Micro fibre came about by combining two DuPont inventions: Polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and Polyamide (an absorbing fibre) this nylon hybrid is
created during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of
tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime.
The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester
appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that
collectively encapsulate liquids. The polyamide is used as the core of the
hybrid fibre and the polyester is the outer skin.
A Microfiber towel made from
polyester/polyamide will remove product due to its inherent properties (that’s
why they are so good at cleaning without the use of chemicals).
The polyester and polyamide
are combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network
of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the
weave.
Conversely the same
attributes that make Microfiber so good at cleaning have an adverse affect when
applying wax. A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond with the paint surface,
so when you remove it, you are removing excess product. An organic wax however, does not form a bond with the paint surface but merely adheres to it, forming a
chain-link type coating. A 100% micro fibre cotton towel will leave enough of
the wax behind to enable it to form a surface coating.
b)
Cotton Towel - 100% cotton micro fibre with terrycloth weave, spun with long
staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the
larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a
fine nap, ideal for buffing and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.
1. A Swissvax towel made from 100% cotton micro fibre with a terrycloth weave, spun with long
staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the
larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a
fine nap, ideal for buffing and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.
2. Zymöl Microwipe is
an alternative to final buffing with a Swissvax or Zymöl 100%
cotton micro fibre towel. This e ultra lightweight, "rubber" (nylon +
nytril) quad axial woven material repels wax, forcing all of it to bond during application.
How long will a wax protection last?
Carnauba wax- molecules are
closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the
surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface. These wax molecules form an
egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint
molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth.
Waxes in themselves even
with the addition of silicone fluids are not as durable as the amino-functional
silicones found in polymers in the formulation, do not crosslink but will
resist many environmental contaminants only for a short period of time.
Brazilian Carnauba wax is usually blended with natural oils (to provide gloss)
and modern polymers (to provide shine)
There is no standard answer
to how long a car wax will last, as there are many variables that influence the
durability of wax such as: type and colour of paint, condition of paint,
environmental conditions, and hours kept outdoors, quality of wax used, and how
often the car is washed. Through dissipation Carnauba wax are limited in their
protecting capabilities. More specifically, these wax compounds have a melting
point of 183.oF when the temperature of the painted surface exceeds the melting
point of the compound applied thereon; the waxes will melt from a hard wax to
oil.
When this occurs, the waxes
are easily washed off and, more importantly, will pick up dust particles and
other air pollutants. In actual practice, the temperature frequently leads to
melting of the wax compounds (which also contains solvents and sometime Beeswax
(130.oF low melting points).
For example, painted
surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 80.oF in direct sunlight, will rise
up to a temperature of 185.oF or more. Consequently, the extremely fine film of
wax covering the peaks of the painted surface is very quickly dissipated,
leaving them exposed to the elements to become oxidized.
If the paint finishes
contain silver or aluminium metallic particles, then the wax coatings would
provide little or no protection, since the metallic particles retain more heat
and, therefore, rapidly destroy the protection of the waxes.
This barrier is all that
stands between the environmental contaminants (ultra violet radiation, acid
rain, ozone, industrial pollution, rain, road dirt and tar, etc) and the paint
film surface and this renewable barrier is probably less than 0.000001-inch
(0.001 Mil) thick.
Generally you can expect 25%
of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 50% after 60 days and 75%
gone after 90 days, this is dependent upon many factors, ambient temperatures
and conditions and product used. You should plan on waxing your car four (4)
times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking in a garage,
using a car cover and by using a quick detailer spray (QD) like Pinnacle
Crystal Mist.
Time to reapply wax
Once you've washed and
applied wax pay close attention to the way water ‘beads’ (shape, composition)
and the surface ‘slickness’ this will become your baseline. Once the paint
surface no longer exhibits those characteristics, the wax (and protection) is
probably finished. Slickness and beading usually change long before the
protection and appearance really start to degrade
Protection from airborne contaminants
Carnauba wax provides better
protection from airborne contaminants than a polymer sealant; as wax forms a
layer on top of the paint surface, whereas a polymer becomes a 'part' of it by
bonding with the paint molecules. When the wax is attacked it acts as a shield
that must be compromised before the aggressor can reach the paint surface. Each
time you wash you remove the top portion of the wax, along with any
environmental contaminants.
A polymer’s molecules are
cross-linked with the paint so there is only a micro barrier between its outer
surface and the paint.
Carrier system
The solvents and oils
(Silicone, Môn tan, Mineral, etc) that are formulated in an emulsion type
carrier system soften the wax, without which it would remain rock hard; the
solvents along with oils also allow the wax to spread evenly on the paint surface.
The solvent permeates the micro-fissures of the paint surface providing an
anchor, as a wax doesn’t form a monocular bond with paint like a polymer, it
initially adheres to the paint via surface friction.
Once the solvents have
evaporated the wax sets-up (hardens) to provide a shell like protection
Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see
manufacturer’s instructions on specific products) is usually more than
sufficient, this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependent
upon ambient temperature / humidity
Note- Although polymers formulated in
Carnauba waxes are not generally of a type that cross-link, a categorical
statement that Carnauba waxes do not contain cross- inking polymers may not be
without exception
Like most car care products
Carnauba wax is designed to provide maximum results with minimum product
application, most Carnauba waxes work well using the WOWO (wipe on wipe off)
method while still slightly damp but not completely dry, generally apply a very
thin layer, preferably with a distilled water primed foam applicator; allowing
it to haze, then wiping off. I would suggest you do a swipe-test (swipe the
surface with your finger, if the wax is still semi-liquid wait for a while and
repeat)
Paste Wax vs. Liquid Wax
Most chemists agree that
when it comes to a wax formulation there is no advantage between pastes, creams
or liquids. It has more to do with production cost and marketing than; ease of
application or removal, its protection or surface gloss abilities. The only
ingredients that will make a difference is wax quality, percentage by volume of
wax and its carrier system (i.e. type of solvent / silicone and/or mineral oils
used) and wax percentage content
Paste wax is just a thicker
form of liquid wax, a different consistency, not necessarily even more or less
solvents. All natural waxes require a solvent to soften them (in their natural
state they are as hard as concrete and are sold as a solid block or as flakes)
Some wax products use an emulsion (oil-in water) to keep more liquid without
adding more solvents which, in high concentrations could affect durability as
it would dilute the wax content, the emulsion helps to lubricate the paint
surface and enables the wax to spread evenly before the solvents flash and the
wax reverts to its 'hard' consistency.
Dispensing paste wax- invert
the jar on top of the pad; let the wax slide onto pad, angle the jar or squeeze
to hold the wax in place, and spread evenly on the foam pad.
Wax Applicators
Foam wax applicators are
probably the most utilised car accessory there is. The reason being they are
cheap, but absolutely perfect for the application of any type of car wax or
sealant.
These are the most
inexpensive but possibly the most useful car care product, constructed from
high quality closed cell soft polymer foam they are pliable, strong and
efficient and most are machine washable. One caveat:
avoid the mistake of improper usage, i.e. overuse, cross-contamination,
dehydrated pads, and insufficient cleansing after use
I would recommend dampening
the applicator for best results, as the damp applicator enables the user to
apply a uniform thin layer of wax. Apply your coating in two thin
layers; not a single heavy coat; make sure the first layer is thoroughly dry
before you apply the second (this is used to ensure complete surface coverage).
·
Chemical Guys – Wax + Dressing Applicators (W-APS)
·
Pinnacle Foam Wax Applicator - made of quality closed
cell soft poly-foam that is pliable, strong, and efficient.
·
Zymöl Monza Foam Car Wax Applicator Pads -
are ultra soft and use a tight cell structure to offer safe and even
application of product on a variety of surfaces.
·
Dodo Juice - Supernatural Finger Mitt Wax Applicator -
these hand-stitched foam ‘finger mitts’ are therefore made from high density
110ppi foam – the softest you can get. Wax is kept on the surface of the paint,
rather than being absorbed back into the applicator, due to it being made from
closed cell foam. They give you the ‘feel’ of applying wax by your fingertips,
but with the consistency of foam pad application.
·
Zaino Custom Polish Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish
applicator, approximately 4 x 5 - inches
square, with special reversed stitching to prevent scratching of paint
surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features the finest texture and
softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a special silicone free,
sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a light mist of water,
before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will make product spread
further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft.
Washing
- After using foam pads place in some water with P21S
Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean or a microfiber detergent;
this keeps your pads moist and begins the cleaning process while you finish
detailing; pads can be rotated by soaking and squeezing out reside. Never allow
a used application pad to air dry before it is washed.
Humidity affects the
application because Carnauba is inherently hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) if
you notice dark streaks during the application of Carnauba waxes, it tells you
that the humidity is high. This will also retard the set-up time, usually, if
the car is left in the sun for a few minutes after the wax has been applied the
streaks will disappear.
Windy conditions affect the
curing of the wax because winds move more oxygen across the waxed surface,
curing it faster. If you must wax your car on a windy humid day, wax smaller
sections at a time (one foot by one foot)
Applicator Care
Most car care products
contain polymer or oils that serve as surface lubricants. Even if you rinse the
applicator immediately after using it, the oily residue remains because oil and
water are not miscible.
To properly clean the micro fibre or foam
applicator pads, you need to use a fairly strong cleaner that contains a
degreaser, especially for applicators that have been used for wax or sealant
application as they are formulated to be detergent resistant (P21S
Total Auto Wash or Optimum power clean).
Surface Temperature
Actual surface temperature
of the vehicle between 50 °F (10 °C) and 80 °F (26 °C) products will work well
within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45° to 90 ° F (4.5-32 °C) but at
45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three
hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70 ° F (15-21 °C)
range surrounding air temp (ambient or room)
Adhesion Carnauba - Polymer
Carnauba wax (liquid or
paste) once set-up will adhere to a polymer provided the polymer has cross-linked
(12-24 hours); conversely if a polymer is applied on top of a Carnauba wax it
is unable to form a molecular bond due to the waxes oil content (the exception
to this rule is Zaino Clear Seal (Z-CS) a polymer that does form a strong bond
to wax/oil
Carnauba Wax is a preferential ingredient in;
•
Polishes – Shoe, furniture, leather
•
Automobile, floor, fruit, candies
•
Finishes – Leather
•
Cosmetics – Creams, Lipsticks
•
Casting – Precision, Investment
•
Lubricants – Greases, Mould Releases, Phonograph Records
•
Buffing – Wooden ware
•
Inks – Carbon Paper
•
Protective Coatings – Varnishes, lacquers, enamels
•
Candles
•
Medicinal – Salves, Ointments
•
Carnauba wax is FDA approved under regulation; 21 CFR 184.1978-
21 CFR 175.320 C.T.F.A. listed - C.A.S. #8015-86.9
White Carnauba Wax
Number one grade Carnauba
varies from a very pale yellow (so called ‘white’), through a greenish brown
(yellow). It is the world’s purest, hardest and most transparent natural wax
repellent derived from the Brazilian palm Copernia Cerefera. This wax coats the
leaves and is hydrophobic; it forms a barrier that is a natural deterrent from
acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird excrement.
Its colour is determined by
the ages of the leaves when harvested, and ranges from pale yellow (new,
unopened leaves) to a greenish brown (older leaves exposed to sun and weather).
There are various grades
available (#1 Yellow and Yellow) the pale yellow wax (sometimes termed Ivory)
has the highest clarity (very transparent) and is the highest grade of carnauba
available, much sought after by concourse d’élégance entrants (See also Zymöl website) A
natural (or pure) white Carnauba wax does not exist; this is just a marketing
play on words to denote ‘purity’. In addition to colour, the wax is also graded
according to area of origin—Parnahyba, Piaui, Ceara, and Bahai.
'Bleached' Carnauba wax
It is practically impossible
to bleach carnauba wax white without altering its composition. There is a
demand for white carnauba wax for use in cosmetics, or other purposes where
whiteness is a prime need. White carnauba wax may be prepared by several
methods.
(a) The carnauba is mixed
with paraffin, the temperature raised to about 220.o C, and
activated carbon, or "Tonsil" clay is added.
(b) Carnauba is fractionally
crystallized from its benzene solution at 16.0C, when crystals
(melt. 80.O C) of pure white colour is collected, together with a
by-product wax (melt. 60.O C).
(c) Crude carnauba wax is
dissolved in boiling butanol and treated with metallic sodium, the effect of
which is to bleach the wax. The solution is then filtered and the solvent
recovered.
(d) The carnauba wax is
mixed with paraffin, and then saphoified with alkali. This mixture is then
boiled with water, and the white wax separated as a layer from the aqueous
soapy solution.
The last described method,
which is of German and Austrian origin, permits the utilization of the cheap
lower grades of natural wax. The white wax is non-saphonifiable, or nearly so,
and has a very low viscosity when melted.
Marque Specific Sealants and Wax
Paints from different (DuPont,
PPG, BASF, etc) manufacturers do not favour one wax over another; there
is no factual basis for a special wax or sealant formulated for a specific
vehicle model, nor custom coloured waxes with pigment dyes to mach original
paint. Wax doesn’t form a molecular bond with the paint surface; it just forms
a ‘shell’, so there is no chemical reaction between paint and wax.
The clear coat is applied
for both protection of the colour coat and to give it depth; some marques clear
coat paints vary i.e. some are softer/ thinner etc. If you apply a non-clear
wax or sealant, or a custom coloured wax it will only mute the paints colour
and depth of shine.
However some waxes or
sealants are more suited to the reflective properties of certain paint colour
Red Zaino
Z2PRO™ and Pinnacle Souverän or Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax
Yellow Zaino
Z2PRO™ or * Rejex and Pinnacle Souverän
Black (Clear Coat) Zaino PC
Fusion ™ and P21S Carnauba Paste Wax
Black (Single Stage) Pinnacle Souverän or Poorboy's
Natty's Paste Wax
Silver Klasse
All-In-One and Menzera Menzerna APO88
Power Lock
White Aquartz
System (Silica) Zaino Z2PRO™, Jeff Werkstatt, Klasse SG and/ or P21S Carnauba
Paste Wax
Zymöl Carnauba Waxes and Glazes
Zymöl: [:'enZYMatic
emOLient']
History
The original formula for
Zymöl was founded in Germany in 1830 and was a handmade concoction put together
for the local carriage makers. The original formula contained paraffin, lard,
goose fat, beef suet and refined tree resin (Môn tan oil). These natural
products had a very short shelf life.
After spending years looking
for the right protective formula we found a simple answer in the town of
Bischofsheim. The original formula,
based on rendered animal fats was converted to plant oils and their derivatives.
Being a natural product it is free from all silicones, abrasives, chalks, and
petrochemical solvents, which basically means there is no scratching or any
dust left behind, then the formula was enhanced with Carnauba from Brazil.
To make this 'enzymatic emollient'
mixture work they directly applied the tool of the mighty Honey-Bee, Propolis
contains the following acids –caffeic, ferulic, cinnamic and cinnamyl. This
powerful reagent converts fats and oils into wax. Zymöl uses Môntan oils
as opposed to solvents to soften their waxes
The product was taken back
to America and broken down to determined the composites of the Old World Wax,
so a suitable organic substitute could be found. They were replaced with highly
saturated plant oils, such as banana, coconut, and cinnamon bark. Môn tan oil
was retained, but the paraffin was replaced with Carnauba.
This formulation gave a
clarity and depth of shine that gave a better than new finish. The Zymöl waxes
are an enzyme mixture until they applied to a surface. Then the air acts as a
catalyst and the wax starts a bonding process to the surface to which it is
applied.
The breakthrough for Zymöl
came at the 1990 Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance when Ralph Laurens Bugatti
Type 57 SC took Best of Show award, and the car had been prepared with Zymöl
products.
The members of the Porsche
Club of America, BMW CCA and the Mercedes Benz CCA continue to use and
recommend Zymöl as its best grooming system.
What makes Zymöl so
different is that it contains no petrochemical solvents or abrasives, so it is
safe for all paint finishes, including new paint. It also has an extremely high
Carnauba wax content of the best grade available, which is Brazilian No 1
Yellow which gives both greater protection and increased depth of shine.
Zymöl and Swissvax do
not endorse the use of an applicator for use with their Estate waxes and glazes
for optimum results. One of the biggest problems with using a wax applicator is
that they can easily grab a sharp piece of sand and it can become embedded in
the applicator. Without knowing it that sharp piece of rock is moved all over
the surface starting what is later known as swirl marks.
With the bare hands
application that same piece of sharp sand would be detected and removed almost
instantly and you’ll use less as your palms will not absorb the wax. Swirl
marks are a fact of life, but they can be reduced considerably.
If you do apply via an
applicator make sure to warm the wax in your hands first, it's is gritty enough
that it will mar the finish otherwise. They use natural Môn tan oils as opposed
to solvent oils, applying them with a foam applicator would absorb some of this
oil perhaps having a detrimental effect on its aesthetics.
One of the main reasons
given for using a foam applicator is to avoid waiting the required three hours
in a warm climate / environment to buff the surface a second time to remove any
excess oil
Applying wax with the bare
hands is not a new technique; it was used in the 60’s. It will produce the best
possible looks and protection. Wax is at its very best when the wax from the
original jar or tin is in those same concentrations. The hands are not porous
and therefore no solvents will be absorbed. Bare hand waxing will benefit
almost any wax-based product. In the right hands it could make the difference
between a good job and an excellent job.
Bare hand application is an
essential step that should be utilized in order to soften the compound and also
to spread the wax without excessive waste? Estate waxes and glazes in their
latent state are enzymes and when used the heat transfer from the warmth of the
hands acts as a catalyst to turn the product into a wax ready for application.
You need patience for this
process; it is time consuming to apply wax with bare hands (don’t forget to
remove rings) but the results are worth it. Use soft latex gloves; they are
effective because latex will not scratch, and will prevent wax from soaking
into your hands, it also helps prevent accidental marring from rough palms and
from finger nails.
Put a very small amount of
the glaze to the palm of your hand. Use the warmth of your hands to melt and
activate the Carnauba wax, as in its latent state it’s an enzyme and when used
the heat transfer from the warmth of the hands acts as a catalyst to turn the
product into a wax ready for application. With your hand, gently apply the
glaze in a light, even singular direction pattern over no more than three or
four-square feet of painted surface. Let stand for 30 to 60 seconds.
Using moderate pressure,
wipe very slowly with a 100% Cotton Micro-fibre Swisswax Cotton Towel
(folded in four) to a brilliant lustre before wax is totally dry. Wait three to
four hours, to ensure all the solvents have out gassed and then lightly buff
the paint again to perfect the shine.
Would you spend $30,000 on car wax?
How much do you typically
pay for a jar of car wax, 50 or $100? How does $30,000 sound? No, that's not a
typo, but it is what automotive wax producer Zymöl is charging for its Solaris
Glaze car wax. It comes in a pyramid-shaped solar-activated container, I’m not
entirely sure if its purpose, although it looks good and maybe that’s it. Only
25 containers of Solaris Glaze will be produced and each includes a gold mixing
spoon and is refillable for life. Even at this price it very quickly sold out,
which speaks volumes for the marketing of a product
With organic waxes you reach
a certain price point, usually over $200, when you are not just paying for the
basic ingredients anymore. Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.
Bringing a new product to
market can cost upwards of $45,000. The set price point of a high dollar wax
has to recuperate:
·
R&D costs, the so called speciality waxes or a glaze usually
sells in small numbers
·
Product packaging, usually eye catching and expensive
·
Marketing cost are high as the product needs to appeal to an
exclusive market segment
·
Vendor mark-up, due to low volume sales this is usually much
higher than for other products
·
A higher than average price tends to add to the elitist or
exclusivity factor
·
Carnauba % content is a very inaccurate method to assess overall
performance or value
Then there is the luxury
effect and products uniqueness. Mr Royce said this about the price charged for
RR automobiles [The
price charged is whatever the market will stand]
There are of course some
less expensive (a somewhat relevant term as used in this context) Zymöl - Royale $13000, Zymöl Vintage Glaze
$3500, Zymöl Atlantique Glaze $1800, Swisswax-
Crystal Rock $1265, Swissvax Divine $3325, Swissvax Concorso $280
In the final analysis; a wax
or sealant can only reflect what is underneath it, so a clean, level
well-prepared surface is the most important consideration (85% of a surfaces
reflectivity is its preparation) along with applied product clarity
Enzymes (or
proteins)
Heat acts as a catalyst that
increases the rate of a chemical reaction; Propolis is an enzyme found in
beeswax (a secondary component found in most car waxes). Collected by Bee's it
comprises approximately 55% resinous compounds and balms, 30% beeswax, 10%
aromatic essential oils, and 5% bee pollen and is used as a binding agent. (See Zymöl estate glazes)
Alternative products –
•
Swissvax Concorso / Best of Show
•
Zymöl Vintage Estate Glaze
•
Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba
•
Victoria Concours Red Wax
•
P21S 100% Carnauba Wax
Waxes
·
Pinnicle Signature Series II (Light colours) -
is an upgrade, a reformulation of the original Signature Series Wax. An
opportunity to reassess the wax and incorporate the newest blending techniques
and ingredients the result is a wax that meets all VOC standards.
During
research and development, he found that the “jetting factor” of the wax could
be improved with the addition of a new liquid crystal polymer. This polymer was
originally designed to form resins for use in electronic connectors. For this
purpose, the polymer is left in a semi-liquid state that both softens the
carnauba and enhances the wax’s reflective nature. The result is a wetter,
glossier finish that brings out the best in any colour paint finish.
·
Pinnicle Souverän Carnauba Paste Wax - (Dark colours and Red and Yellow)
provides a rippling gloss and sharp reflections. This wax compare extremely
well with 'high-end waxes' (Zymöl, Swissax, etc.)
·
Victoria Concours Paste Wax as the name suggests, was
originally developed for competitive use at Concours events. It contains one of
the highest amounts of real wax content used in the industry and is formulated
using a large amounts of pure Carnauba and an exotic blend of natural oils. It’s one of the better waxes for ‘hand’
application or ‘spit shining’.
·
Victoria Collectors Paste Wax - developed for easy
application. It is an easier wax to work with by hand application or perfect
for use with an applicator. It's not so much the shine, but the absorbing depth
and clarity that makes this wax so appealing.
·
P21S 100% Carnauba Wax – one of the most underrated
waxes available, it provides aesthetics on a par with far more expensive waxes.
Value for money its second to none
Storage Temperature
(Product)
Car
care products should not be stored at temperatures below 35 – 40.oF,
if they freeze they will become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage
temperature range- 50- 75.oF with an average humidity range.
Do
not store at temperature extremes (45 -85.oF) as heat will
destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc) and
avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable. Most
car care products (including Polymers) will separate and are no longer usable
after being subjected to freezing temperatures. Warming them and then shake
vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product re- mixes
The
chemical composition of waxes rarely ever change regardless of what form it is
in, whether it is melted to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid.
Temperature has little to no effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax,
a cool temperatures and constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents
from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer
period of time. Do not allow to freeze and avoid temperature swings
Shelf-Life
a) Polymers have a shelf
life of approx 3-5 years if kept in their original containers and stored at
temperatures as above
b) Polish - technically
2 years, however if bottle is kept closed, and the product has not separated,
there would be no problem with use for four years after sale date.
c) Waxes will last
almost indefinitely, provided that they are stored a sealed in their original
containers and in a controlled (steady) temperature environment once opened.
The liquids should last 18 months if stored at normal room temperature.
If
product emulsion separates it could be indicative of age (but not necessarily
past its useful life) shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes and see if the product
re- mixes. Product shelf -life may vary
from one manufacturer to another, if in doubt check with product mfg or vendor.
Bibliography
1.
Relevant Material Data Sheet (MSDS) – http://bit.ly/7uM4QA
2.
Zymöl- (http://www.Zymöl.com/carnauba.htm)
3.
Swissvax - SWISSVAX - the ultimate car care products hand-made
in Switzerland
4.
Wikipedia - Carnauba wax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia
5.
Strahl & Pitsch (Brasilia Carnauba) - Carnauba Wax
6.
Abstracts from articles related to Auto Appearance Chemicals –
Dow Corning
7.
Why apply wax with bare hands? by David Wyllie
8.
The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes, by Albin H. Warth; Second
Edition 1956
9.
The Chemical Formulary, by H. Bennett
10.
Propolis-Research Review, by La Rocco, Mike Vespa 2001
Information resource -
1.
Zymöl and Swissvax Internet websites
2.
The Basics of Silicon Chemistry - Dow Corning
3.
Dow Chemical Manufacturing (Auto appearance chemicals) - Chemical
Manufacturing - Auto Appearance Chemicals - Formulations - Dow Corning
4.
The Royal Society of Chemistry; Cambridge, 1995
Silicon-Containing Polymers Jones, Richard, G.
I would like to think that
these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to
professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their
knowledge.
I hope the above article was
informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as
the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals
we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or
constructive comments are always appreciated.
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