Apart from aesthetics damage
to your wheels is the result of improperly maintained wheels. Road salt and
brake dust that sits on an unprotected wheel will eventually lead to the
corrosion of metals, pitting and peeling of the paint and discoloration. A
properly maintained and protected wheel will dramatically prolong the life of
these materials.
Clean, properly conditioned
wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your
vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one
wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to
avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.
There are many different
finishes and materials available for rims, determine what type of rims, for
example powder coated, painted, clear coated, polished, chromed , etc and then
decide on an appropriate product and cleaning method.
Most modem automotive wheels
have a painted aluminium base with two or three clear coats applied (on the
‘front’ of the wheel but not the back, these are usually just a primer paint
surface) and are subjected to similar type contaminants as the paint film
surface, including acid rain, airborne pollutants, alkaline water as well as
road tar debris.
Wheel surfaces are subjected
to intense heat, road oil and debris and generally they see more abuse than any
other visible surface on the car. Wheel cleaning is not that difficult,
especially if you use the correct tools, they have to work safely but
effectively.
Wheel cleaners that contain
acid are the most dangerous, there are wheel acids that are safe if used with
care and the directions are followed precisely. Accidents and expensive wheel
replacements can always be avoided if you do some research and are smart about
your choices.
Any wheel cleaner that touts
spray-on, hose-off without agitation is a danger to both you and the
environment. Use a cleaner that contains no acids, petroleum solvents, butyl or
butyl ethers of any kind. Spraying alloy wheels with an acid or lye-based
cleaner will almost instantly remove the clear finish, staining the wheel
surface a milky-white. An acid can migrate into miniscule cracks and fissures
in the wheel's finish and begin to flake off the clear coat. An effective wheel
cleaner should be pH-balanced (slightly alkaline to counteract the acidic
conditions found on most roadways).
Determine which product and
concentration to use based on experience.
·
1:2 dilution for lightly soiled wheels (1 part concentrate plus 2
parts distilled water)
·
Undiluted concentrate for heavily soiled wheels
Always
check the products MSDS and its pH value before you use it. It is always
preferable that you use a 100% acid-free product with a pH of 7.5 – 8.5.
If the wheel surface has rash, chips,
scratches or the surface is compromised or is uncoated you could end up doing a
very significant amount of damage both cosmetically and structurally by using
an acidic product. PH-controlled [: means it follows the major automotive
manufacturer’s guidelines for exterior cleaners; the control limit being pH
10.0<]
Use
Caution - braking efficiency is reduced after washing the wheels /
brakes. This could cause an accident. For this reason, following a car wash,
drive with particular care until the brakes are dry.
Wheel Balancing Weights
Remove
any adhesive residue with 3M™ Adhesive Remover is a ready-to-use blend of
safe petroleum solvents designed to remove adhesive deposits from exterior
vehicle surfaces. To minimize the possibility of staining, do not apply in
direct sunlight or onto a hot surface.
Not for sale in California.suggested
replacement: 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner
A warning about acids and HF
Of all the chemicals used in
the detail business, wheel acids are the most dangerous to the wheel, the
employee and the environment. Many contain hydrofluoric (HF) acid which is
extremely harmful if you get it on your skin, in your eyes or inhale it and is
not recommended.
With any wheel acid, you
should always wear safety equipment. This means glasses and gloves; and the
work should be done in a well-ventilated area.
Non-acid wheel cleaners,
while not as dangerous, have a high pH (12 or 13). They are harmful to your
eyes and will severely dry out your hands if not used with gloves. So do not be
fooled into thinking that they are not dangerous. They will also etch a paint
surface just like an acid
Also, repeated use of wheel
acid can break down in the resin in the clear-coat and cause it to cloud and/or
deteriorate. So use acid only when absolutely necessary.
And remember: Just because
it cleans faster than non-acid does not mean you should always use it.
Brake Dust
Airborne ferrous particles
containing iron actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds
that eat deep into the paint's sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a
gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late. Claying or
polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to
spread beneath the surface.
Modern brake pads are
complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder
system) used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also
corrosive and will etch the wheel surface this is designed to wear away under
friction like the rest of the pad. These materials become sintered (heat
etched) to the wheel surfaces and rims due to the high kinetic (friction)
temperature conditions they are normally exposed to.
Brake dust contains high
levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to
dissolve or remove and will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint
surface of your wheels
Removal
·
Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
·
Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and
other debris.
·
Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded
contaminants
·
Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar
or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate
with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
·
Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this
cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel
for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in
·
For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use Aquartz IronX or Sonax Wheel
Cleaner formulated with neutralised acid
salt. Spray onto wheel surface; allow reacting, and then agitating with a wheel
brush before hosing off.
·
Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to
polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the
clear coated parts) Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush
and then rinse off (See
Wheel Brushes)
Caution – do
not use acidic or neutralized acid products on compromised (i.e. curbed,
flaking or pitted chrome) as they will damage the nickel coating underneath,
causing plating failure. Chrome plating is applied over nickel; which provides the reflectivity
and most of the corrosion resistance. The plating is exceptionally thin,
measured in microns
The chemicals used in
products like IronX, Ferrex, et al are harmful if they come into contact with
bare skin, wear hand protection
Do not use the
same towels for both bodywork and wheel
surfaces. It’s better to earmark
separate towels for the wheels
Use
Caution - braking efficiency is reduced after washing the wheels /
brakes. This could cause an accident. For this reason, following a car wash,
drive with particular care until the brakes are dry.
Cleaning Clear Coated Wheels
To distinguish bare (no
clear coat) aluminium, by using a metal polish will turn the cloth black;
otherwise they probably have a clear coat paint finish. Ensure wheels and
rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause them to warp.
·
Normal cleaning-P21S Total Auto Wash (1:10
diluted solution)
·
Cleaning – P21S
Wheel Cleaner (balanced pH)
·
Heavy cleaning – IronX or Sonax
Wheel Cleaner (neutralized acid pH 7)
Periodically remove the
wheels to thoroughly clean and inspect them for damage
·
Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
·
Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and
other debris.
·
Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded
contaminants
·
Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or
oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate
with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
·
Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this
cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel
for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in
·
For badly soiled surfaces use C.Quartz IronX or Sonax
Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto
wheel surface, allow to react, and then agitate with a wheel brush before
hosing off
·
Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to
polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the
clear coated parts)
·
Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and
then rinse off (See
Wheel Brushes)
·
Rinse wheel surface thoroughly with clean water (to avoid
splashing paint surface rise by pouring a bucket of water over each wheel from
the top down
·
Remove any surface imperfections with a suitable clear coat
polish (dependent upon extent of damage)
·
Dry wheels with a forced air blower; these are extremely
powerful and will dry the whole car and the wheels as well. A good tip; flush
the rotors and callipers with water until it comes out clear.
·
Apply a polymer sealant (Wheel Wax, Collinite Metal
Wax # 850 or ZoopSeal) to the surface of the wheels, it will protect the finish from
brake dust and the elements and also make them easier to keep clean.
·
Organic wax has a low melting point and will not withstand the
sustained temperature surfaces are subjected to
General
purpose APC - dilute Optimum Power Clean™ up to 3:1 to safely clean,
vinyl, paint, and plastics. Remove old dash dressings and tough residues from
interior panels and wheel surfaces. Special polymers and emulsifiers break down
contaminants with minimal agitation. Use caution when cleaning as the finish on
some callipers use a powder coating (Brembo, etc) that can be stained by some
wheel cleaners. (See
Powder Coated Finishes)
Powder Coated Wheels and
Callipers
A powder coating process
typically involves temperatures ranging from 345 -410.OF (175 to
210.OC) for 30 minutes. Aluminium alloy wheels made of alloy 6061
contain magnesium and silicon to help improve strength and resistance to hot
cracking, and would not be expected to suffer a significant decrease in its
strength following powder coating that involved temperatures of up to 410.OF
degrees for up to 30 minutes.
This
type of coating that is applied as a free-flowing, dry powder. The main
difference between a conventional liquid paint and a powder coating is that the
powder coating does not require a solvent to keep the binder and filler parts
in a liquid suspension form. The coating is typically applied electrostatically and is then cured under heat to allow it to flow and form a
"skin".
The
powder may be a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer. It is usually used to
create a hard finish that is tougher than conventional paint. Once installed,
maintaining the initial appearance of a powder coating is a simple matter.
Powder
coated surfaces are more resistant to chipping, scratching, fading, and wearing
than other finishes. Most dirt and oil will come off with simple soap and
water.
Other
automotive cleaning products also work well. Do not use
break cleaners, or other harsh chemicals. Powder coat is much more resistant to
these types of chemicals but may dull glossy finishes.
The
road dirt and grime which builds up on surfaces from time to time contains
moisture and salts which will adversely affect the powder coating and must be
removed
Polishing
can be done with a micro fibre towel and polishing compound (Menzerna PO 85) and
a Lake County (LC) White or Black foam pad to
restore scratched surfaces
Cleaning
·
Allow wheel surface to cool down
·
Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
·
Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and
other debris.
·
Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded
contaminants
·
Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar
or oil(P21S® Total Auto Wash) to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate
with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
·
Remove bake dust with C.Quartz IronX or Sonax
Wheel Cleaner
·
Rinse wheel surface and then
dry thoroughly
·
And then apply a clear WOWO protectant (Zaino
Z-CS Clear Seal)
·
Chrome Wheels
If you've ever seen a
brilliant shine on a wheel with a mirror like finish, you were probably looking
at chrome. Although a chrome wheel looks great when clean, they are somewhat
difficult to maintain and keep looking new. Chrome is easily damaged by brake
dust and road debris. Chrome wheels should not be
used in the winter. It is extremely soft finish and once you get a chip in the
finish, water, salt corrosion etc can easily get under the chrome plating
causing it to fail.
1. Clean wheel surface with P21S Total Auto Wash
2. Remove any road tar (bitumen) using Optimum Power Clean ™
3. For normal brake dust clean surfaces with P21S Wheel Cleaner, a
mild balanced pH cleaner
4.
For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use Aquartz
IronX (see note 1) formulated
with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface; allow reacting, and then
agitating with a wheel brush before hosing off.
5. Use P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, a mild
wheel cleaner that's pH balanced making it simple, gentle, and effective. Its
primary function is to return metal to its stock finish. It will remove a lot
of the tarnish from their finish, along with any other contaminants. It can
also be used on lightly tarnished aluminium, exhaust tips, or any other
tarnished metals.
6. P21S®
Finish Restorer - this product is primarily a
polish, used for metals to refine their finish as opposed to a cleaning product
to remove contaminants from metal finishes. These two products can be used
together, first using the polishing soap and then the finish restorer. Finish
restorer can be used on its own on metal that is only lightly tarnished.
7. Using a wheel bush (Daytona Speed Master
Wheel Brush or Wheel
Woolies ) to agitate cleaning product will
make them more effective and help to get into hard to reach places
Note; Do not use any
kind of acid on compromised finishes i.e. curbed, pealing or chipped chrome
plating
Polished Aluminium
A bare, high polished
aluminium wheel can shine almost like chrome, and unfortunately many people who
buy this type of aftermarket wheel assume the wheels are chrome so they choose
a chrome wheel cleaner, which used on bare, high polished aluminium, will stain
the surface white almost instantly
They
can be either a clear coated, anodized, or bare polished aluminium in which case different types
of polishes are needed for each. Test for bare (uncoated) aluminum by using a
metal polish, which will turn the cloth black. There are two recommended
products; each will work differently, used separately or in tandem, they will
produce a great finish.
Aluminium Wheel Polishing:
Un-coated aluminium wheels are an aftermarket
product (not OEM) Uncoated; (to test apply a mild polish, if the applicator
turns black (a chemical reaction between nickel and the polish then there is no
clear coat on the paint finish, if the
wheels are clear coated see Cleaning Wheels and Tyres.
Uncoated aluminium is always
in a state of tarnish (oxidation) as this is its natural sacrificial coating in
the presence of air and become coated with a thin film of oxide (so-called
‘white rust’) that pacifies the metal and slows further corrosion
OEM aluminium wheels are
coated and should be cleaned like any other coated wheel finish. P21S®
Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, so it is
simple, gentle, and effective, it will return metal to an OEM finish and it
will remove most of the tarnish, as well as any other contaminants. It also
works on any lightly tarnished aluminium in your engine bay, exhaust tips, or
any other metals that are tarnished.
P21S® Finish Restorer - this
is a polishing product to refine a cleaned finish as opposed to cleaning; it’s formulated
to polish metals and refine their finish. Used after the surface has been
cleaned with the polishing soap or as a finish restorer on metal that is only
lightly tarnished.
Methodology
·
Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as
this may cause the rotors warp. Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
·
Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and
other debris.
·
Use detailing clay to remove any imbedded contaminants
·
Remove road tar with a solvent (Stoners™ Tarminator)
·
Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash or P21S® Polishing Soap (a
clay-based polish that applies with its own sponge) to wheel surfaces and let
soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
·
Remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH
wheel cleaner (P21S® Wheel Cleaner)
·
For really soiled surfaces use Sonax Wheel Cleaner full
effect on a dry surface
·
Agitate with a soft
boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water
·
Remove scratches with finishing grit paper (grit number will
depend upon severity of scratch)
·
To remove tough stains such as oxidation and acid rain water
spots, use a cutting polish (Wenol Original (Red
tube) or a fine metal polish (Auto Wenol Blue tube) to remove rain water
spotting and produce a bright shine (follow Wenol Original with Auto Wenol)
apply products with a 100% DFT cotton micro towel
·
Magnesium or aluminium wheels can be polished with a
water-soluble polish (Happich Semichrome Polish, ECP
Showman Polish or Autosol)
·
For difficult to reach places use a felt polishing buffer on an
electric drill (Dremal or Griot’s Felt Polishing Cone
Set)
·
Apply surface protection (G|Techniq C5 Wheel Sealant)
Polished Aluminium Lips
They can be either a clear
coated, anodized, or bare polished aluminium (using a metal polish will turn
the cloth black if the metal is not coated) in which case different types of
polishes are needed for each.
1.
Bare (uncoated) aluminium; remove any grease with a d-limonene
(citrus) based cleaner P21S® Total Auto Wash. Use Optimum
™ Metal Polish and a
Mother’s Powerball and then wash with P21S®
Polishing Soap
2.
Clear coated; Wash surface with P21S® Total Auto Wash,
remove any brake dust / tar and then use a polymer sealant
3.
Apply surface protection (Optimum Polymer Technologies Opti-Seal™)
Waterless Wash
Optimum Polymer Technologies ( ONR) have set the standard in waterless washing by using encapsulating polymers and surfactants
to safely remove dirt/grime without causing surface scratching.
Waterless
polymer based systems do not require pre-wetting the surfaces. A
combination of polymers and surfactant cleaners safely removes dirt and grime
and leaves a glossy protective finish. The polymers and
surfactants used in these non rinse washes have the capability to bond to dirt
particles and act as a barrier between the dirt particles and the paint. The
grime and dirt is then trapped in the surfactant, protecting the paint finish
without the need to use large amounts of water to flush the dirt off the
vehicle.
Used as a winter car wash or
in areas that have hosepipe ban, water usage restrictions, or where a water
supply is not readily available (apartments, car shows, etc; cleans and
protects while minimising water usage, 100% environmentally safe and it reduces
water usage to a fraction of a conventional car wash, 1- oz ONR per 2- gallons
of water to wash the entire car.
For best results swirl-free results, use
Optimum's high lubricity wash Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
Simply mist diluted 1:3 with distilled
water on to micro fibre towel and then wipes off residue. Fold your towel into
quarters and rotate to expose a fresh surface for best results. It dries
instantly and doesn't leave behind a greasy film like other products. Utilizing
special cleaning agents you can gently clean your entire car. It quickly lifts
and separates oils, dust, dirt and other contaminants. The substantive polymers
help suspend contaminants so they can be removed safely. It also provides
meaningful protection on every surface you apply it to. For use on - vinyl,
plastic, paint, metal, rubber and etc. finish will look clean and new with
minimal effort.
To remove salt and road grit or to clean
really soiled surfaces I would suggest a pre-rinse to remove the larger dirt
particles first before being washed. Then use the ONR concentrates or the
traditional two-bucket wash method or if you have a pressure washer available
to remove the larger dirt / salt particles
Matte Wheel Finish
If polished with traditional
polishes the finish will become less matte and glossier over time; do not wet-sand or use
conventional wax or use an automatic car wash that uses hot wax in the final
rinse, as the flattening agents that cause the matte appearance will become
‘levelled ‘The textured finish is accomplished by a diffused 30 degree
reflection and are retained very close to the clear coat surface. By levelling
the surface the light will be reflected evenly and result in a ‘shine’.
Use a machine polisher and
an ultra soft, zero abrasive cut (100 PPI) foam pad) with a mild chemical paint
cleaner it will remove surface marring and leave it satin matte. Use a clear polymer, the key is to add surface
protection and depth without adding gloss.
Swissvax Opaque
products for Matte or Satin Finish paint and
have been specifically developed (oil free) to ensure that they don’t change
the appearance of matte or satin paint.
1.
Remove any sintered brake or
rail dust contaminants with a suitable cleaner (C.Quartz
IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner)
2.
Wash surface with Swisswax (SV) Opaque Car Bath
3.
Prior to wax application the
wrap needs to be totally free from oils and dirt. Clean all wrapped surfaces
with SV Opaque Pre-cleaner.
4.
Spray a 100% cotton micro fibre
towel and apply to one panel at a time.
5.
Wipe off with a clean 100%
cotton towel
6.
Apply SV Opaque Wax to one panel at a time,
this wax will provide depth without adding a shine
7.
Allow to dry for 10 minutes
before buffing off and moving to the next section.
8.
After the wax has out gassed
and set-up, allow 2-3 hours and then
buff the surface with a soft 100% cotton micro fibre towel
9.
Use Quick Finish Opaque as a quick
detailer to remove finger marks and smudges
Wheel cleaner pH comparisons
·
Amazing Roll-Off (pH 14.0) contains butyl
·
Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity Cleaner (pH of 13.0) contains butyl
·
Bilberry is acid free but highly caustic - 13.0
·
Multi-purpose cleaners (pH between 9.5 and 12.0)
·
Blackfire Gel Wheel and Tire Cleaner (pH 12.5)
·
P21S® Bodywork Shampoo (ph 8.0)
·
P21S Wheel Cleaner (pH ‘controlled’ 9.0) Green
·
P21S Wheel Cleaner (422) Red Gel Formula (pH 9.5)
·
Sonax Autopflege Wheel Cleaner full effect (pH ‘controlled’ 9.5)
·
Menzerna Tire & Wheel Cleaner (pH7.5) detergent-based
cleaners with surfactants, wetting agents and oil emulsifiers
·
Griot’s Wheel Cleaner (pH 7.1)
·
Meguiar's D140 Wheel Brightener (pH 5.5) contains Ammonium
bifluoride SiO2 (ABF)
Wheel Detailing Brush
These are what I consider to
be the minimum requirements for a wheel brush-
·
Durability: they have to last, even when used with pressure,
especially its shaft
·
Non-scratch: the material, fibres or the shaft tip must should
not cause scratches to the wheel surface
·
Cleaning ability: a brush and stem that is able to withstand the
(reasonable) pressure required to clean stubborn stains.
·
Brush head bristles or fibres that won cause the wheel cleaner
to back spray
·
Easy cleaned after use
a) The
Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush - has a thicker, reinforced stem, but
maintains its flexibility although the new stem is more rugged for frequent use
on auto wheels. The bristles are slightly feathered on the ends to gently clean
delicate wheel finishes, such as coated or plated wheels, without scratching.
b) E-Z
Detail Brush - is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft
with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle
with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush
and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush
is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every
imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other
brushes can reach.
E-Z Detail Brush, there are three versions of the brush
·
Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush (18 x 4.5 – inch)
·
EZ Detail Brush mini (13 x 2.5 – inch )
·
EZ Detail Motorcycle Brush (18 x 4.5-inch )
c) Eimann
Fabrik Lamb’s Wool Wheel Woolies - wool wheel cleaning brushes, these
brushes drastically cut the amount of time it takes to clean almost any kind of
wheel. Each brush is 12- inches long with three differing diameter brush head
sizes and a chemical resistant handle and a bonded wool head.
d) Spoke
& Slot Brush - simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into
wheel crevices. Lamb’s Wool Spoke Brush - it replaces those awkward spoke
brushes that never seem to be the right size and lack soft bristles on the tip.
This tapered ultra soft tool is completely covered with 100% lamb’s wool and is
small enough to squeeze between spokes, slots and around bolts 6 1/2"
long, 1/2" to 2" in diameter - TOTL
f) Microfiber
Cleaning Wand - the special microfiber thick nap cleans tight spaces in;
(0.5"x1.5"x12") wheels use dry or moisten with water for extra
cleaning power - no chemical cleaners are needed Machine washable, air dry, and
no fabric softener. Refills are available – Casabella
g) Power
Sticks - are designed to be used with your cordless drill, simply wet
the wheel with water, spray on your favourite wheel cleaner, attach the Power
Stick to your cordless drill, dip the brush end into a bucket of soapy water
and allow the friction of the Power Stick's Super Soft Cloth to gently scrub
away brake dust clear to the back of the wheel.
h) Deluxe
Wheel & Brake Dust Remover Brush - was created to make sure
those wheels aren't overlooked. It offers a strong scour pad to remove brake
dust from your wheel, as well as an outer soft bristles to clean wheels while
protecting that new wheel finish. Grip Tech™ handle for non-slip, easy to grip,
with stiff bristle tips to clean in between spokes flexible brush that bends to
get into hard to reach rim crevices Removes brake dust and other grime while
keeping the wheels shiny and clean
i) Laitner
Ergonomic Spoke/ Slot Wheel Brush -
removes brake dust between spokes and in narrow slot openings. The narrow wheel
brush has soft, chemical resistant bristles to safely clean all types of wheels
without scratching. A comfortable handle has a soft, non-slip grip.
Polypropylene bristles are securely fastened a soft, non-slip handle with a
tough wire core. The wire is completely covered in soft bristles and a rubber
tip protects the wheel from contact. The brush is built to withstand solvents,
acids, petroleum products, and detergents. The synthetic materials hold up
through frequent, repeated use with wheel cleaners and degreasers. If the
bristles become flattened, wet the brush and allow it to air dry.
The naturally feathered
boar’s hair bristles will not scratch, the boar’s hair (BHB) is durable yet
very gentle on any surface. Use the Clean Wheel Brush on painted, alloy,
chrome, plated, and anodized wheels. The Clean Wheel Lug Nut Brush is also a
great small brush for interiors –
j) Uber Spoke Brush (Detailers Domain) has white Tampico fibre twisted in
wire 3-1/2" inch diameter with a pointed end, and a plain sanded hardwood
handle.
Wheel Surface Sealants
Apply a sealant after
cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect
wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350.oF +) The melting point of
an organic wax (180.oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by
vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+) Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel
surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and
it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and
water solution. The newer nanotechnology coatings will withstand temperatures
up to 500.OF
WheelWax
- safe for all wheels, painted, anodized, polished or clear
coated. Just wipe it on, let it dry to a haze and wipe it off. For maximum
shine, rinse the wheels with cool water and buff to a high shine.
Swissvax
Autobahn Wheel Wax - this product was developed for German customers of fast motor
cars with alloy or magnesium wheels. The product has been tested on German
Autobahns on cars with top speeds of 185 MPH (300 KPM) in Switzerland during
the winter. Switzerland has one of the harshest road climates in the world
using salt and harsh winter chemicals, and on racetracks in Austria and
Germany.
G|Techniq
C5 Wheel Sealant – a one-component clear coating based upon chemical
nanotechnology that offers a transparent and optically neutral coating for
smooth, non absorbing surfaces. Sealed surfaces are easy to maintain, without
the need for any special cleansing agents, and are resistant to fresh soiling
of the surfaces.
Used on metals offers a
long-life protection against corrosion and because of its long lasting adhesion
to the base material surface, and is highly resistant to mechanical and
chemical attack as well as offering exceptional UV protection. For use on
stainless-steel, chrome, aluminium, brass, copper and already coated surfaces.
Not intended for use on glass or on plastic materials.
Application
– an
airbrush or HVLP paint spray gun (5/16-inch (8mm) nozzle at 30 PSI (2 bar) to
provide a single, thin (3-10 ยต) and uniform coverage for this type of coating
Maintenance- this
coating requires no special maintenance and should last for around two years. Coating
longevity will be improved if wheels are cleaned only with either normal car
shampoo or citrus degreaser. Avoid acid wheel cleaners.
I would like to think that these
articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals
alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was
informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as
the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals
we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you would share this article
as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive comments are always
appreciated.
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© 2002 - 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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