Carnauba (Brasilia) Wax
[: contains
mainly esters of fatty acids (80-85%), fatty alcohols (10-15%), acids (3-6%)
and hydrocarbons (1-3%). Specific for carnauba wax is the content of esterified
fatty diols (about 20%), hydroxylated fatty acids (about 6%) and cinnamic acid
(about 10%). Cinnamic acid, an antioxidant, may be hydroxylated or
methoxylated]
After five decades + of
detailing, I've always preferred a natural warmth and depth of a carnauba. I'm
a purist and simply want to see the chroma of the paint. It provides a high
level of gloss, but the depth of shine is what does it for me.
Carnauba wax when applied to
a surface will not adhere properly on its own, nor does it form a molecular
bond, solvents and polymers are added to enable it to spread evenly to the
surface. Natural waxes initially adhere by surface tension; the balance of the
adherence process is that it works its way via the carrier system (solvent and
/ or oils) into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the paint film surface
thereby creating a mechanical anchor.
Wax can be thought of as
semi-solid until the solvent carrier components outgas (evaporate) these wax
molecules form an egg-grate type mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the
paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth. Due to this shape the reflected
light becomes somewhat distorted (refraction) sometimes described as jetting
(the so-called wet-look) It is a property that creates a super rich shine with
incredible depth and the illusion of wetness on the surface, the better the
quality and volume of refined wax the more pronounced the effect of jetting.
Carnauba wax is inherently
hydroscopic when exposed to water; wax swells and closes its pores, which along
with surface tension, causes `water beading'. Carnauba in today's wax formulas
functions mostly as a carrier; it’s used to keep the polymers and oils on your
car's surface. Only a small portion of your vehicle's shine comes from the wax
itself. Carnauba is translucent at best with only minimal light reflection. It
is among the hardest of natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure
form
Typical Wax Formula
It is among the hardest of
natural waxes, being harder than concrete in its pure form
•
Water: 30-60%
•
Petroleum and oil-based solvents: 15-40%
•
Abrasives: 10-30%
•
Organic and/or Inorganic (Synthetic) waxes: 0-5%
•
Silicone polymer: 0-5%
•
Surfactants: 1-5%
•
Additives: 0-3%
•
Fragrance, thickeners, etc
Significant portions
(10-30%) of waxes are composed of drying oil or solvents that have a fast
evaporation rate (Linseed, Turpentine or Môntan) oils are usually used with
Carnauba wax. Designed as a carrier; it dissolves, carries and spreads the wax
over the surface, before evaporating.
Paraffin is a stronger
solvent and more volatile than turpentine oil, which means it evaporates
better, thus aiding buffing. It is less lubricious though, coconut or polymer
based oils or Isoamyl acetate (the so-called banana oil) which is actually a
solvent along with some mild abrasive materials (Kaolin,
China Clay or
Dimescous earth) ; they serve several purposes, acting as fillers, adding shine
, helping to spread the wax evenly and minimize streaking, and they help to
remove oxidized paint.
Take a look at the formulas
on the Dow Corning site to get some idea of the amount of possible ingredients
that can be used in a wax and these are just from one supplier - http://www.dowcorning.com//ch...to/default.asp
Physical Properties
•
CI name is Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba) wax
•
E Number is E903.
•
Relative density is about 0.97
•
Carnauba Wax is a hard, brittle non-tacky and lustrous wax.
•
Melting point: 180–187. °F (82–86. °C, among the highest of
natural waxes.
•
Flash Point: 570.0F Min.
•
Specific Gravity at 25.0C: 0.9996-0.9998
•
Acid Number: 2-10
•
Iodine Number: 7-14
•
Unsaponifiable Matter %: 50-55
•
Refractive Index: 1.4540
•
Resin Content %: 4 to 6
Paste waxes are heated in a
steam jacketed kettle with the liquid wax being sent under pressure to a
filling machine. The wax containers are filled and then go down an assembly
line through a cooling tunnel, the temperature of the wax mast be maintained at
40.OF from the beginning to the end of the pouring or it loses its
consistency becoming too soft, it does not like forced cooling.
Carnauba in today's wax
formulas functions mostly as a carrier. It is the vehicle used to keep the
polymers and oils on your car's surface. Only a small portion of your vehicle's
shine comes from the "wax" (i.e. carnauba) itself. Carnauba is translucent
at best with only minimal light reflection.
Marketing propagates the
myth that increasing the Carnauba content of a wax will make the wax
"better". This is marginally true at best. Increasing the Carnauba
content up to a point (30 to 37%), will increase the waxes durability but will
not affect the shine. If the Carnauba content is too high (40% or more), the
result is a rock-hard, wax brick. You simply would not be able to apply it to a
vehicle. Be wary of manufacturers that claim high (40 %+) wax contents. They
are either fabrications or they include softer, cheaper waxes (beeswax, palm
wax, paraffin) in their formula.
Other Ingredients
The majority of products in
the marketplace contain a combination of one or more waxes, silicone fluids,
and other polymers.
1. Waxes
are natural substances (animal or vegetable) or synthetic materials solid at
ambient temperature (20.OC.-25.OC.). They are insoluble
in water, soluble in oils and are capable of forming a water repellent film.
These include Carnauba wax (extract of Copemrica Cerifera), Candelilla wax
(extract of Euphobies Cerifera and Pedilantus pavonis), and Alfa wax (extract
of Stipa tenacissima), Montan wax, polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, oxidized
paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax,
hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax
of cassis flower; animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax
(cerabellina).
2. Silicone oils also referred to as
dimehtyl fluids are generally straight chain poly-dimethy siloxane fluids
ranging in viscosity from 0.65 to 100,000 centipoises. The typical ones used in
wax or sealants formulations however are between 350 to 10,000 centipoises
viscosity. These have no reactivity and help with application or initial gloss.
There are some modifications
to improve characteristics of these oils by adding certain groups for instance
aryl groups improve fire resistance and larger alkyl groups make silicone
fluids body-shop safe. Some manufacturer’s use these modified silicone fluids
only to claim that the product does not contain silicone oils.
3. Sealants in general refer to
amino-functional polymer silicone oils or resins. An amino-functional
polysiloxane contains highly polar pendant aminoalkyl modifying groups that
enhance the durability of films formed by polysiloxanes, and promote adhesion
of films to a variety of substrates. These include reactive and non-reactive,
hydrolyzable and non-hydrolyzable derivatives.
There are two main types of wax; Organic
(Natural) and Non-Organic (Synthetic)
The word "wax"
usually refers to a variety of organic (natural) substances that are solid at
ambient temperature but become somewhat free-flowing liquids at slightly higher
temperatures. The chemical composition of waxes is complex, but normal alkenes
are always present in high proportion, and molecular weight profiles tend to be
very varied.
The main commercial source
of non-organic (synthetic) wax is crude petroleum, but not all crude oil
refiners produce wax. Mineral wax can also be produced from lignite, plants,
animals and even insects produce materials sold in commerce as wax.
There is normally no more
than 15% to 20% natural wax content in retail car care wax, some products also
contain a high percentage of Diatomaceous earth or China clay, this helps to
provide shine by its sleight abrading ability and is evidenced by the large
amount of powder residue left on the car by some products when the wax carrier
system evaporates.
Organic Wax - Carnauba
(Brasilia) Wax: is an organic (containing carbons) or natural product, a
vegetable wax (fat) wax derived from the fronds of the carnauba palm,
Copernicia prunifera, a plant native to and grown only in the north-eastern
Brazilian states of Piauí, Ceará, and Rio Grande do Norte. It is known as
"queen of waxes” and usually comes in the form of hard yellow-brown
flakes. It is obtained from the fronds of the carnauba palm by collecting them,
beating them to loosen the wax, then refining the wax.
Non-Organic Wax- these
synthetic waxes are formulated with polymers, which are more durable than
organic waxes. Synthetic waxes commonly mix low amounts of solvents cleaners
with high amounts of U.V. inhibitors to create the same protective layer that
carnauba do. Synthetic wax creates a high gloss while carnauba waxes give a
warm and wet looking finish
Enzymes
Enzymes are proteins that
catalyze (i.e., increase the rates of) chemical reactions. In enzymatic
reactions, the molecules at the beginning of the process, called substrates,
are converted into different molecules, called products. Almost all chemical
reactions in a biological cell need enzymes in order to occur at rates
sufficient for life. Since enzymes are selective for their substrates and speed
up only a few reactions from among many possibilities, the set of enzymes made
in a cell determines which metabolic pathways occur in that cell.
Like all catalysts, enzymes
work by lowering the activation energy for a reaction, thus dramatically
increasing the rate of the reaction. As a result, products are formed faster
and reactions reach their equilibrium state more rapidly. Most enzyme reaction
rates are millions of times faster than those of comparable un-catalyzed
reactions. As with all catalysts, enzymes are not consumed by the reactions
they catalyze, nor do they alter the equilibrium of these reactions.
Liquid or Paste Wax
Wax consistency is
formulated to suit different application methods; i.e. hand (literally) or foam
applicator, the finished ‘look’ will be the same for either method.
Either way it’s important to
apply a consistent thin layer, which may be more difficult with hand
application. A machine application will provide a thin even coating as the
pressure maintained on the foam is constant. The liquid application is more
popular among users because it is considerably easier to work with
This is personal preference.
Both will give you very similar shine and protection, there is a direct
correlation between difficulty of job and durability.
The hard paste is
considerably harder to work with, whereas a ‘soft’ paste wax is considerably
easier, but the protection in terms of length of durability is superior. Liquid
wax due to its higher solvent and / or polymer content has a more reflective
(wetter) look than hard wax, whereas a hard wax is slightly more durable due to
its higher wax content
They differ basically in the
amount of solvents, oils and etc. Carnauba is diluted with solvents, when you
apply a paste wax, the friction (heat) helps melt the wax and evaporate the
solvents. A liquid wax usually contains more volatile solvents that evaporate
out when the wax is applied. The excess wax, left over lubricants, excess
bonding agents, solvent residues and whatever else is left forms the
"haze" that is buffed out to reveal the wax.
For a layered shine apply a
paste wax and then allow hardening, and then apply a coating of liquid wax. A
caveat here is to ensure you do not use too much pressure or friction abrasion
with the liquid wax as the solvents will remove a percentage of the paste wax
A word of caution: layering
a wax may only slightly increase its thickness, but may well increase its
density, which may make it opaque, negating both depth of shine and clarity
Most car care product
chemists agree that when it comes to a wax formulation there is no advantage
between pastes, creams or liquids. It has more to do with production cost and
marketing than; its protection or surface gloss abilities. Liquid or cream type
waxes are easier to apply, although removal is about the same. /paste wax is
just a thicker form of liquid wax. Just a different consistency, not
necessarily even more or less solvents as some wax products use an emulsion to
keep more liquid without adding solvents, which, in high concentrations could
remove the underlying wax.
The only ingredients that
will make a difference are wax quality and its percentage content, and the
carrier system (i.e. type of solvent / silicone and / or mineral or natural
oils used)
When making a comparison
ensure you compare like with like (i.e. % volume or % weight) as some Carnauba
percentages refer to % of Carnauba as a proportion of wax content only ( i.e.
70% carnauba, 30% beeswax). Wax in itself will not produce a gloss or shine;
wax is a dull substance that provides protection, and will not produce gloss
without the addition of an additive (oils, silicones, etc) which will produce a
reflective gloss, jetting (the so called ‘wet-look) or depth.
Carnauba wax
Carnauba (Brasilia Carnauba)
is a vegetable wax (fat) wax derived from the fronds of the carnauba palm,
Copernicia prunifera, a plant native to and grown only in the north-eastern
Brazilian states of Piauí, Ceará, and Rio Grande do Norte. It is known as "queen
of waxes” and usually comes in the form of hard yellow-brown flakes. It is
obtained from the fronds of the carnauba palm by collecting them, beating them
to loosen the wax, then refining the wax.
This (Copernicia prunifera)
Arecaceae palm grows in the northern and north-eastern parts of Brazil along
the riverbanks, valleys, and lagoons where the soil is dark and fertile. The
tree needs very little water to grow, is very prolific and attains a height
40-50 feet after fifty years.
It has an affinity to water,
the ability to retain oil and when refined, making it applicable in a vast
variety of industries. Carnauba is the hardest natural wax and has lustrous
composition making it the leading choice for food coatings, pharmaceutical
coatings and polishes.
The International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name is Copernicia Cerifera.
Carnauba wax appears as an ingredient in many cosmetics formulas where it is
used to thicken lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, deodorant,
various skin care preparations, sun care preparations, etc
Carnauba wax grades
There are various grades
available (#1 Yellow and Yellow) the pale yellow wax (sometimes termed Ivory)
has the highest clarity (very transparent) and is the highest grade of carnauba
available, much sought after by concourse d’élégance entrants A natural White
Carnauba wax does not exist; this is just a marketing play on words to denote
‘purity’. Be cognizant that synthetic Carnauba is the closest to the white(ish)
colour. In addition to colour, Carnauba wax is also graded according to the
area of its origin—Parnahyba, Piaui, Ceara, and Bahai.
#1 Grade ‘White’ Carnauba
Varies from a very pale
yellow (so called ‘white/ivory’), through a greenish brown (yellow). It is the
world’s purest and hardest natural wax repellent derived from the Brazilian
palm Copernia prunifera, this wax coats the fronds and is hydrophobic; it forms
a barrier that is a natural deterrent from acid rain, airborne pollutants and
acidic bird excrement. Its colour is determined by the ages of the leaves when
harvested, and ranges from pale yellow (new, unopened leaves) to a greenish
brown (older leaves exposed to sun and weather).
White carnauba does not
exist, however natural and synthetic carnauba can be modified/made to look
whiter. However another source is by using synthetic carnauba, which is a
carnauba that is close to a pale white colour. White carnauba can be produced
by using quantities of bleach, although I would question what could be gained
by doing so.
Yellow Grade Carnauba
During the blending process,
as the wax is melted to a liquid, additional oils are added, which
"wet" the surface. This gives the finish the ‘jetting’ look
(liquidity)
Paint Polishes and Protective Coatings
•
Compound – an aggressive grade of polish used to remove deeper
scratches and for paint renovation
•
Polish – an abrasive compound that removes impurities provides
shine and prepares it for a wax or sealant protection.
•
Paint Cleaner – contains a very mild polishing agent (i.e.
Kaolin (China clay) or Diatomaceous earth ) that is used to clean a paint
surface and provide protection, but they will not remove ingrained surface
scratches
•
Glaze – used by detailers for show car to obtain maximum light
reflection by darkening the paint surface colour. They produce a “wet"
look to the surface with oils to maximize surface gloss and may contain fillers
(Kaolin or China clay) to hide minor defects not removed by polishing or for
use when the paint is thin and you don't want to remove any more, even if it is
microns. They will provide little if any surface protection.
•
Wax – an organic or synthetic protective coating that is applied
to the exterior surface of an automobile to improve shine and prevent oxidation
•
Sealant – a polymer sealant comprises an open linked molecule,
which forms a bond with the paint, this is the main reason for their
durability; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an
elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their
inherent flat surface.
Because they are usually
very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have
very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, flat silver
glow
Molecular Alignment:
Carnauba wax molecules,
which are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect
the surface. They align themselves to form an egg-grate type structure (with
their long axis vertical) this is what gives it depth. Polymer sealants
comprises an open linked molecule that form a chain-link mesh that produces a
flat and very reflective surface resulting in a flat silver glow, but has no
depth.
Acrylic paints are small,
very dense molecule system; the carrier system (solvents) allows the dense
molecule to spread and cross-link forming a hard protective surface. The paint
molecules are of a uniform size and therefore reflect the surface it covers
with very little optical distortion, adding little if any depth of shine to the
paints colour.
Glaze
Glaze is a term that's
frequently misused in detailing products. Glazes are paint treatments used to
fill small surface scratches and swirl marks, as they don’t usually contain any
abrasives and are used solely for aesthetic purposes, they offer no surface
protection and are usually used in conjunction with an organic wax.
Although some product
manufactures describe their waxes as a ‘glaze’. To a painter, glaze is the term
used to describe the process of restoring full paint gloss.
It is a used by detailers
for show car to obtain maximum light reflection as they add depth by darkening
the paint surface colour. They produce a “wet" look to the surface with
oils to maximize surface gloss and may contain fillers (Kaolin or China clay)
to hide minor defects not removed by polishing. Glaze may help to hide any
spider webbing inherent to fibreglass, which is not removable with an abrasive
polish or compound.
They will provide little if
any surface protection. There are two types of glazes; wax/oil based and
polymer-based, an oil / wax based glaze can only be used under a carnauba wax,
as a polymer sealant will not bond. They are also used when a clear coat could
be compromised by further abrasive polishing if there is insufficient paint
film thickness remaining, the ‘fillers’ will hide most surface imperfections.
Glazing is done after polishing but before applying the final wax or sealant
Basic Cleaning Requirements
As with all detailing tasks;
surface preparation is the most important step to achieving e a flawless finish.
The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to; so surface
preparation is of paramount importance. Products will properly bond to a
substrate and that will ensure it works correctly, and has both durability and
desired aesthetics
Three types of energy are required;
•
Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner
•
Kinetic (abrasion) energy provided by machine or hand
•
Thermal energy -provided by warm or hot water
Surface preparation
Use a high-quality cleaner,
formulated without strong solvents and one that has a pH value between 4 and 10
(neither strongly acidic nor strongly alkaline).
Make sure the paint surface
is cool; if you can hold your hand comfortably on the paint, then it is cool
enough to wax Prior to the polishing process; you’ll need to remove the old
paint protection and any oxidation first so you can get down to the bare paint
where these contaminants have attached themselves, the paint should already be
washed and clayed for maximum results, then using a chemical paint surface
cleaner as any dirt and or oxidation on the paint can interfere with the
polish.
If the paint surface is
heavily contaminated (Industrial fall-out, Metallic Brake dust, Rust Blooms or
Oxidation) it may require a decontamination process (See Paint Decontamination
article) The paint surface should be as clean as possible, this will ensure
that nothing comes between the wax and the surface to interfere with surface
adhesion and the application pads will not get clogged with surface debris.
a) Polymer
sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a paint surface if there
are any oils or moisture present and it will affect durability.
b) Silicone
will cause surface smearing and will also affect durability
Paint Cleaners
Are available in both abrasive
and non-abrasive formulations:-
Swissvax Cleaner Fluid
Strong is an advanced diminishing abrasive pre-war treatment designed to be
used on heavily weathered paint and finishes with medium to heavy signs of use.
Apply by using long strokes and firm pressure.
Swissvax Cleaner Fluid
Regular is an advanced non-abrasive paint preparation solution containing mild
chemical cleaning agents and heavy glazing oils that fill and mask minor paint
defects and are simply unrivalled in terms of producing a perfect oil-rich
surface ready for Swissvax wax protection.
Paint Surface Cleaning
Vehicle manufacturer studies
have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants, like imbedded
rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants
from a paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system and will
negatively affect the paint protection products durability.
There are two distinct types
of paint cleaner; Abrasive and Chemical (solvent
or acid)
a) Abrasive - Detailer’s clay Automotive clay is not a replacement for
polish or a compound; it is a pliable, petroleum resin product, containing a
mild abrasive(s) i.e. kaolin, silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics
quartz and also silicon carbide that polishes and exfoliates bonded surface
contaminants and will remove a large percentage of wax or sealant.
Detailer’s clay will remove
most but not all of the iron particulate that is the cause of the rust
"blooming", to for a corrosion decontamination system to be effective
requires the complete removal of all particulates and the corrosive acids they
generate that have penetrated the paint surface system.
These abrasives are
extremely small with an average particle size of 1- µ (micron) dependent on the
aggressiveness required, mixed in with a powdered synthetic detergent.
The abrasives 'shear' the
surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay
(i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint,
which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it
to continue generating corrosion damage)
While clay products are
useful for overspray and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and
deep clean the pores of the paint. (See also Decontamination and acid
Neutralization)
Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual
Action Paint Cleaner - a water-based formula with tri-particulate, diminishing
abrasive system (no fillers or oils) which allows you to use the oxidation
you're removing as an abrasive that removes minor scratches, swirls, oxidation,
wax build-up and other surface blemishes
b) Chemical (solvent) – pre-wax chemical cleaners that are formulated
with solvents and / or very fine abrasives (Kaolin or China Clay) to remove old
wax, embedded dirt and light stains from paint; they help to restore gloss and
remove light surface imperfection (oxidation, paint stains, marks left from
bird excrement, water ‘spots’, and etc). Use to prepare the paint surface to
ensure a pristine surface clear of oils that will negatively impact the
durability of an applied wax r polymer. They are designed to be used as often
as required without measurably reducing paint thickness, unlike an abrasive
polish.
P21S Paintwork Cleanse, a
gloss-enhancing chemical cleanser that contains fillers (Kaolin or China clay)
will remove old wax, light swirls and oxidation. It can be applied by hand or
with an orbital polisher. Paint cleaners are designed to remove old wax,
oxidation, embedded dirt and light stains from your paint surface. They can
remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will
not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove
some oxidation and mineral deposits.
Chemical solvents paint
cleaners are good to use if you want to prep the paint surface prior to
applying a wax (without polishing). My preference would be to use an IPA or
DuPont’s PrepSol as they don’t leave any (silicone / mineral) oils or etc
behind, as these can cause problems when polishing if they are not removed
c) Chemical (acid) - decontamination and acid neutralization system,
ValuGard is the most recognized and one of the few OEM approved chemical
neutralization system in the industry. While clay and chemical cleaners are
useful for cleaning the paint surface they cannot deep clean the pores of the
paint, or neutralize rust spots. This can be accomplished with a chemical
cleaning acid and neutralization system.
Schedule:
every three or four months (dependent upon environmental conditions and vehicle
exposure) more often on light colour paint. To optimize the reflective
properties and appearance of the paint surface, it is best to regularly remove
both embedded and surface contaminants and dirt.
A Carnauba wax contains a
limited amount of polymer, this is used to both increase shine and help to form
a molecular bond with the urethane paint. So it is important to provide as
‘clean’ a surface as possible, this can be accomplished by washing the surface
and using detailer’s clay to remove surface contaminants and/or using a
chemical paint cleaner. This will ensure its durability, which can be augmented
by occasionally using a spray wax
Making of a Good Wax
[ In Canada and the United
States at every major library you can find a selection of Formulary books. The
best is H. Bennett Formulary series. They cover 90 years of making all kinds of
things from ski wax to shoe polish and lipstick to hair shampoo. That series of
books is the best information anyone could ever get about chemicals and how to
use them to achieve a great product.
Wax Research
[It took us to the 1920's and
30’s, which was the last time large quantities of real waxes were used in
formulas. Next came the 40's and 50's with crude silicones and cruder polymers
beginning to appear in our research of formulas. Then the 60's thru 90's marketing
took over and it had nothing to do with the truth or what was really in the
products. At that time there was nothing more discerning to a car enthusiast
who had faithfully used a product for many years and then an old friend makes a
comment about the finish not looking as good as it use to.] David Wyliss
I
would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to
detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to
advance their knowledge.
I hope the above article was
informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as
the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals
we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.
I would appreciate it if you
would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.
Questions and/ or constructive
comments are always appreciated.
Copyright © 2002 -
2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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