TOGWT: Towels used for Detailing

Product Application

What is equally important with any towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the towel in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section.

With it folded properly you'll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry

Dilution of Cleaning Chemicals

a) Under-dilution – a chemical solution that is too can damage carpets, upholstery, wheels, etc. It costs more in actual product cost and additional labour to correct any problems that occur due to improper dilution.

b) Over-dilution - a weak chemical solution can cause inadequate cleaning performance, which means you will have to re-clean the same areas. With carpet and fabric upholstery, this can lead to over-wetting, resulting in such things as mould, mildew, shrinkage, etc.

c) Spot testing to ensure chemical will not stain or damage material is also very important

Micro fibre (Microfiber) and 100% Cotton Towels

History

As one of the answers of how to use petroleum waste products efficiently, then micro fibre emerged as a way to take something that was useless and turn it into a product that everyone could use. Here is some background on the development of micro fibre and some of the uses for the material.

During the middle twentieth century, the manufacture of synthetic fibres began to expand into new areas. One of the breakthroughs of the era was to take the sludge that was left over after oil had been refined and turn it into a synthetic fibre that could be used in upholstery.

The process of refining this waste product yielded a substance known as polypropylene, which could in turn be processed into a thin olefin fibre. Olefin fibres were ideal to use in the production of car upholstery, home and office carpeting, and even some draperies. Olefin fibres caught on in a big way during the 1970’s, with such companies as Hercules, Inc. of Wilmington, Delaware producing their own branded form of olefin fibre, which was dubbed Herculon®.

A Revolutionary Product

It’s a revolutionary product that’s not causing a revolution. After its debut in 1970 in Sweden and success throughout Europe, micro fibre cleaning textiles should have replaced most of the household chemicals that smear, powder, spray, and infuse almost every inch of the American home. Micro fibre cleans surfaces mechanically, not chemically, by scraping them with microscopic precision. And you don’t throw the products away, but keep renewing them with machine or hand washing.

“It’s one of the greenest products out there. From the research we've done, micro fibre cleans and removes dirt and bacteria with water alone. You do not need chemicals,” says Judy Klein, director of retail cleaning for Newell Rubbermaid, the $6.4 billion Corporation that in 2007 introduced a consumer line of micro fibre cleaning products.

For the most part, though, disbelief has stunted micro fibre proliferation. The claims of chemical-free cleaning are too vast to trust and too complex to understand for the average consumer and the products are too expensive to risk taking the chance. Because the terms “micro fibre or Microfiber” are not regulated, quality products share the same labelling with much lesser quality ones, exacerbating the problem of trust.

Micro fibre

Came about by combining two DuPont inventions: hydrophobic Polyester (a scrubbing fibre) which also gives the material strength and durability and a hydrophilic Polyamide (an absorbing fibre) that is tremendously absorbent and quick drying. This nylon hybrid is created during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids. This fabric actually lifts the dirt or wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel until it is washed.

Micro fibre is an ideal medium for cleaning but less than ideal for the application of products (wax, coatings, etc.) A low nap towel is a far more efficient medium.

Each micro fibre towel contains approx. 50,000 fibres for an average micro fibre towel and up to 200,000 fibres per square inch for a plush micro fibre towel that trap dirt and remove it from the surface. No matter how soft it feels, polyester, being a plastic will scratch a paint surface on a microscopic level, which shows up as towelling marks, longer scratches than the usual small swirl marks or micro marring

The polyester and nylon are alternatively forced through a nozzle that combines them through a heat weaving process. The fibre is then split a number of times to create the micro fibres that are then intertwined to create an ultra-absorbent material. The polyester and polyimide are combined during weaving to create thousands of microscopic loops.

No matter how soft it feels, polyester, being a plastic will scratch a paint surface on a microscopic level, which shows up as towelling marks, longer scratches than the usual small swirl marks or micro marring

There are approximately five or perhaps six plants that produce micro fibre fabric towels and these are based in either China or Korea. They are available in different ratios i.e. a 70% polyester/30% polyamide (or 80/20%) The polyamide is used as the core of the hybrid fibre and the polyester is the outer skin. Each micro fibre towel contains approx. 50,000 for an average micro fibre towel and up to 200,000 fibres per square inch for a plush micro fibre towel that trap dirt and remove it from the surface. Each fibre has specific qualities, that when properly blended, can be used to weave functionally specific fabrics by varying nap length and / or densities.

These loops form a web of hook-like claws that can reach into the tiniest nooks and crannies, it actually lift the dirt or wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel until it is washed. The splitting of the fibre creates millions of edges that enable you to clean closer to surfaces and trap all the dust and dirt that bonds to the micro fibre material and is not released until the cloth is washed in hot water. Therefore the dirt is not transferred from surface to surface while cleaning. And, micro fibre cloths work especially well on mirrors, windows, and glass because the surface will dry totally streak free.

Micro fibre definition (Microfiber US spelling)

There seems to be quite a lot of confusion as to exactly what micro fibre actually is.

By definition [: very small; involving minute quantities or variations] it is not a fabric; but a yarn, that’s spun into thread, which is then used to weave a terry fabric. These ultra-fine yarns (twice as fine as silk and is 100 times finer than a human hair) are made from various sources, they can be made from many different materials, such as a 70% polyester/30% polyamide (or 80/20%) or a natural material such as cellulose, a plant carbohydrate. Potentially any fibre could be made into a micro fibre.

A denier is a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibres. It is defined as the mass in grams per 9,000 meters. A fibre is generally considered a microfiber if it is 1 denier or less (2.25 µ (micron). The denier is based on a natural standard: a single strand of fine silk is approximately 1.0 denier. In order to be classed as a micro fibre, the fibre must be less than one denier thickness. Micro fibres are formed by forcing material through microscopic openings in a device called a spinneret. With micro fibres, the holes are finer than with conventional fibres, with 90,000 to 200,000 fibre strands in a square inch of fabric

There are currently two countries that manufacture and export micro fibre towels, Korea and China. The quality of these products is dependent upon the quality assurance (if any) programs employed. More so than many car care products - you'll (usually) get the quality you pay for. Purchasing them from a reliable vendor is the safest bet.

Its scratch resistance has a lot to do with the way the fibres are processed and spun, there are too many factors to be able to say conclusively that natural fibres will not cause scratches and artificial fibres will. However, natural fibres are far less likely to scratch, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.

The materials used to produce micro fibre was a combination of two DuPont fibres, polyester (the scrubbing and cleaning fibre), and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre), which is used as the core and polyester as the outer fibre. No matter how soft it feels, polyester, being a plastic will scratch a paint surface on a microscopic level, which shows up as towelling marks, longer scratches than the usual small swirl marks or micro marring

The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively are encapsulating a lot of water. Once they become coated with detergent, polish or fabric softener, etc. they lose their absorbent abilities.

The smaller the diameter of the yarn, the softer the fabric will feel, however this does not mean that it's non-abrasive and will not cause scratches (this softness can also be chemically induced).

Microfiber Polyester / Polyamide

The polyester loops form a web of hook-like claws that can reach into the tiniest nooks and crannies, it actually lift the dirt or wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel until it is washed. This is what makes Micro fibre the ideal choice for gently buffing dirt particles off delicate glass and paint surfaces, without fear of abrasion.

A Microfiber towel is made from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre) and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre), these microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave, the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids. Water, being hydrophilic also adheres to micro fibre. The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create anywhere from 50,000 for an average microfiber to 200,000 pores per square inch for a very plush Microfiber towel.

Most micro fibre that originates from Asia and the Far East is fabricated from polyester or nylon by-products. Because the label says micro fibre is no assurance that the material is safe to use or that it is non-abrasive. The most important criteria for any fabric used on a vehicle surface is its quality and scratch resistance.

Microfibers are not made from a renewable resource nor are they biodegradable. The material used to make Microfiber is flammable and emit toxic gases when burned.

In order to be effective for cleaning and polishing usage, the Micro fibre must be split during processing; the polyester (the scrubbing fibre) is split from the polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre). If this is not carried out the resulting product loses over half of its absorbing and cleaning ability

Regardless of material type or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch, Microfiber has static attractant properties (polyester) that is dirt, dust, and various other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using Microfiber towels on your paint or interior surfaces

Polyamide

Is a polymer containing monomers of amides joined by peptide bonds?

They can occur both naturally and artificially, examples being proteins (such as wool and silk) and can be made artificially through step-growth polymerization (nylons, aramids, and sodium poly).

Polyesters

Include naturally-occurring chemicals, such as in the cutin of plant cuticles, as well as synthetics through step-growth polymerization such as polycarbonate and polybutyrate. The melting point of polyester 480 – 570.^OF (250-300°C)

Things to look for in a micro fibre towel

· How many times the fibres are split - a higher split ensues you get a more effective cleaning towel. Splitting the fibres creates millions of edges that trap dirt and dust that bonds to the fibres and is not released until the towel is washed in hot water. Therefore, the dirt is not re-deposited on the paint surface.

· Denier [: weight per unit length (linear density) measure of a continuous filament or yarn, used traditionally in textile industry] The higher the number, the thicker the fibre

· Threads per square inch - for any towel that touches paint, you should aim for at least 150,000 threads per square inch and 200,000 or more is ideal. This high thread count is primarily for increased performance, although can often help decrease your scratch risk. In general, using plush microfiber with long threads will not only give you significantly better performance but will also help reduce your scratch/swirl risk, often by a large margin

· Density of fibre - bear in mind that less density of fibre, translate into less cleaning power and far less durability. - is a measure of fibres per square inch of fabric.

The range for quality micro fibre is 90,000 to 225,000 fibres per square inch. The higher the fibre count the more absorbent. The less dense cloths are also more abrasive to delicate surfaces. Look for at least 200,000 fibres per square inch of fabric.

· Ratio - of polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and polyamide (the absorbing and quick drying fibre) blend; an 80% polyester and 20% polyamide is typical (80/20) a 70/30 blend will absorb water faster. As polyamide is much more expensive than polyester, you can expect to pay more for a 70/30 blend.

· Quality - lesser quality versions can use a weave that is too wide or a pile that is too long, which causes the fibres’ to shed during use, leaving a lint trail.

· Edging- one of the of the advantages of a silk/satin edging is that they won't unravel when washed several times like a non-edged towel nor will they cause marring of the paint surface, it also means that they will not snag. Towel borders will in evidently cause scratches; some materials used as towel edge borders treatments include; over locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations of style and material.

· Weave -the weave on micro fibre towels can be adjusted to meet specific requirements; a terry-loop, cut, hooked feathered, zigzag or Piqué waffle weaves.

· Size - available in various sizes 16 -inch x 16 / 18 / 24 -inch, drying towels 25 -inch x 16 -inch being a usable size

· Thickness - some manufacturers are rating the thickness of their towels by weight; expressed in grams per square meter (GSM). The ratio of polyester and polyamide usually remains the same.

· Melting point - Polyester (fabric) 509 °F (265 °C), and Polyamide 420°F (216°C),

When choosing micro fibre quality is very important, as a lack of quality inspection will result in variable results i.e. towels that will cause surface scratches, leave a trail of lint, etc. Many of the Micro fibre products being offered on the market are made from non-split (non-absorbent and ineffective) yarn. The manufacturer forgoes the expensive splitting procedure to save money, and the result is a failing product.

Not only does the blend lose over half of its absorbing and cleaning ability but it weakens with use, greatly reducing the life of the product. Some micro fibre products from China and Korea have less density and a denier (length of measure) of 0.5 or higher, which is 50x’s larger than the preferred quality denier of 0.02 or smaller.

A good quality towel may cost more, but it will last longer. There are maybe three to five factories in the world capable of making microfibre cloths, and only one or two that are capable of producing high quality products, none of which are owned by a detailing focused company or 'manufacturer'. The most important thing to remember is that a good quality micro fibre towel will provide better cleaning results and is less likely to cause surface scratches than lesser quality towels Micro fibre quality is very often reflected in the purchase price, best advice; use only high quality micro fibre towels from a reputable source ( Pakshak Micropak)

As with most things, you'll usually get the quality you pay for; as Henry Royce once commented [the quality tends to be remembered long after the price has been forgotten]

Testing Micro fibre

A towel's quality can change over time; poor washing methods (separate towels used for different uses) even certain products can affect your towels; so test periodically

There are always places on a car where older microfibers can be used: door jambs, glass, some wheels. A couple of ‘non-scientific test’ you could use to assimilate wither or not a towel (or any other cloth you'd use on a paint surface) will cause scratches, they are not at all scientific nor 100% accurate, they are only indicative of what the towel may do to your paint surface, but then which is preferable to scratch a CD or your paint surface?

Ensure the towels have been washed before carrying out these ‘tests’, and test them using the same criteria you’d use then; damp and remember, even the softest towels will scratch if too much pressure is used,

If the towel does scratch the CD’s surface that doesn't necessarily mean that it will scratch the vehicles paint, a CD has a much softer surface than automobile paint so use caution, initially trying an inconspicuous area of the paint surface

CD Scratch Test

Take a damp micro fibre cloth and use medium to heavy pressure rub the data surface of a CD. If no scratching is evident then it probably won’t scratch the vehicles paint surface, be aware that the bindings can also cause scratching. Ensure you wash before you use a micro fibre towel for the first time and use it on an inconspicuous area first.

Burn Test

Micro fibre towels are made from various fabrics; some are made from cotton, rayon or acrylic and nylon, although Microfiber is invariably polyester (nylon).

A simple non-destructive test to ascertain which fibre the towel contains; take butane lighter and put the fibre close to the flame, but not in the flame If the fibre pulls away from the flame, you have a synthetic fibre (nylon or polyester, most likely).This means you can easily clean the fabric with typical aggression. If the fibre does not pull away, apply a naked flame, if the resulting ash is crumbly and gives you a "dirty finger" when you crush it, you no doubt have a natural fibre

Anti-Static

Static [the process causes electrons to be pulled from the surface of one material and relocated on the surface of the other material]

We can feel, hear and even see the spark as the excess charge is neutralized when brought close to a large electrical conductor (for example a path to ground), or a region with an excess charge of the opposite polarity (positive or negative).

Static electricity is an occasional annoyance in seasons of low humidity, but is usually caused when certain materials are rubbed against each other (friction). Finish Kare 425 quick detailer (QD) has in-built anti-static properties.

A 100% cotton micro fibre towel is inherently anti-static; as opposed to the static build-up caused by friction using a polyester (nylon) micro fibre towel on a polythene clear coat, using a damp towel will diminish the static effect

Using Micro fibre

The first thing you should do when you get a new micro fibre towel is to wash and dry it. Most towels are washed several times by the manufacturer to remove excess dye and any contaminants from the air and machinery. Unfortunately, this leaves the towel looking limp and used. So, manufacturers then "size" the towel to make it look more attractive and new again. This "sizing" process uses a starch and silicone mixture that will scratch and contaminate your paint finish. There will also be a number of loose threads that, while they cause no harm, can be annoying the first time you use the towel.

Some towel manufacturer’s use a chemical to make the fabric soft, these chemicals should be removed by washing, it is very important to wash new towels before they are used for the first time.

Only use liquid detergents; never use dry detergents as many times the granules do not fully dissolve and become trapped in the towel. This can cause scratching of the surface you are cleaning. (See also

Micro fibre Care)

There are many towel edge treatments including over- locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations of style and material, but nearly all of them will cause scratching. Either use borderless or fold the towel so the border is on the inside

A good microfiber cannot unload particles without being immersed in water. If you wipe back and forth while detailing, you will be rubbing the dirt you pick up back and forth over the paint. Water provides the necessary surface lubrication. Simply wet the towel with clean water and wring as dry as possible, or mist a cloth with water to get the right amount of dampness, if the cloth is too wet it will leave streaks.

Fold the towel into four quarters Wet (a damp microfiber will clean better than a dry one) – Wring – Wipe- when drying Wipe – Wring - Wipe if the towel becomes too dirty, it will begin to streak; it is then time to use another clean towel. If you drop a micro fibre towel; change t for a clean one, they are designed to ‘hold on’ to dirt particles that shacking will not free it of containment or dirt particulates.

Methodology - fold the towel into four quarters when using microfiber towels; it’s best to wipe in a single direction until all visible contamination is removed, flipping the towel frequently; micro fibre enables you to clean almost everything without casing surface scratches.

What is equally important with any micro fibre towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the micro fibre towel in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section.

Microfiber (Polishing) Pads

The reason for using non-diminishing abrasives with a microfiber pad is that the ‘hooks’ in this type of pad hold the abrasive, whereas a diminishing abrasives roll across the polishing surface (much like ball bearings) promoting the abrasives to breakdown, or diminish.

This combination of pad / polish requires medium to heavy pressure to ensure the abrasives are in constant contact with the paint surface.

The short fibres have a large surface area, which increases the abrasive available, far more than a foam pad of a similar size. This makes it possible to increase the abrasive ability of the pad/polish combination, while still providing a high gloss finish.

Is quite different than cleaning a foam or wool pad, with these pads the nap will become matted from the polish and oxidized paint a different method had to be used. Using a brush to remove the heavily saturated compound and paint particles required a stiff brush, followed by compressed air. If this option is not available, brush the pads frequently with a nylon brush while the machine spins the pad.

It is important to keep the fibre from matting down as well as preventing contaminated abrasives from clumping together and marring the surface.

The advantage with this new system is you only need one pad for an entire vehicle. Cleaning the microfiber pad using a strong jet of compressed air and taking a couple of minutes to thoroughly clean a pad after each panel is key

Types and Uses for Detailing Towels

Like detailing pads there is no standard colour system to denote what a towel is used for, each manufacturer uses a different colour for their towels. Generally use a short nap for removing waxes and sealants and a longer nap for final buffing.

The towel that is best suited for use on glass and quick detail spray (QD) is a short nap towel, as opposed to a plush towel. The short nap towel provides a better grip on glass and does not absorb the detail spray when using it on paint. This makes your supply last a lot longer and really allows the glass cleaner to work efficiently

General Purpose - a micro fibre towels with a standard terry cloth weave, a medium thick nap and an 80/20 blend of polyester and polyamide. Used for buffing paint, glass, vinyl, plastic and leather. Ideal for quick detailing (QD) this will be the most frequently used towel.

PolyFibre2 - micro fibre towels, are very soft while having more bite and polishing ability than traditional micro fibre, it's 25% more absorbent using 80/20 Polyester/Nylon micro fibre mix woven in Brazil with no generic polyamide (typically referred to as a nylon by-product).These towels are finished and inspected in the USA under the strictest quality control standards.

Glass – cleaning towels fibre is feathered as opposed to hooked; this produces a cloth with substantially greater absorption. Soil, grime and oily films are removed from the surface by capillary action. Micro fibre towels that work well for polishing and glass cleaning seem to have similar characteristics, the towel ideally should be 100% lint free; this means the weave is going to have a shorter nap than a general purpose towel. A decent glass towel needs scrubbing power to successfully remove the residue that cause streaking, sharing the same characteristic that makes a good polishing cloth.

This micro fibre towel is so effective at cleaning glass that often a glass cleaner chemical isn't even necessary. It features a very low-pile cut in a zigzag pattern which literally attracts and removes off-gassing, residue, smudges and oily finger prints. Its efficient cleaning action is truly a time saver.

Double finish Towels- some towels have a different finish on either side of the towel; use the long fibre side for wax removal and the short fibres for polish removal

Finishing Towels – Sonus Der Wunder Buffing Towels, this white dual sided towel has red silk edges and both medium long and short density pile. Use for LSP or QD duties, it remains soft and pliant after many wash / dry cycles. Zaino blonde towel with ‘edgeless’ construction, double sided with long, single density pile on both sides. Use for LSP or QD duties, it remains soft and pliant after many wash / dry cycles. Ideal for spray liquid and (Nano) coatings wipe down

Drying - There are two different micro fibre towelling weaves that make good drying towels: terry cloth and Piqué or waffle weave.

[Piqué isn't more absorbent than terry but the ridges act as hundreds of little squeegees which push the water up into the cups giving the fabric time to absorb.] Leo Cerruti

Pakshak Micropak Ultra-Soft Waffle Weave Micro Fibre Drying Towel - very absorbent, dries streak-free, no lint left behind, also has a silk edging.

Waffle Weave Towel (Piqué) - is a synthetic micro fibre woven with a dimpled pattern, which provides thousands of small pockets to trap dirt or grit. The absorbency of these towels is quite remarkable; they are able to hold seven or eight times their weight in water. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface.

The ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry as it can potentially scratch) That goes for whatever you use for drying, including cotton towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using.

General Purpose - Pakshak Micropak Ultra-Smooth Micro Fibre Towel - an all-purpose towel, highly recommended; smooth soft pile, streak-free absorbent towel with silk edge border.

Micro fibre quality is very often reflected in the purchase price, best advice; use only high quality micro fibre towels from a reputable source

As with most things, you'll usually get the quality you pay for; as Henry Royce once commented [the quality tends to be remembered long after the price has been forgotten]

You may find micro fibre towels labelled for other uses, but most will fit into the categories listed above

The reason I advise against the use of natural or synthetic chamois leather or flat surface synthetic sponges is that grit or dirt can become trapped between its flat surface and the paint causing scratches.

Cotton Towels

Cotton has been used to make very fine lightweight cloth in areas with tropical climates for millennia. Some authorities claim that it was likely that the Egyptians had cotton as early as 12,000 BC, and evidence has been found of cotton in Mexican caves which dated back to approximately 7,000 years ago. The Arabic peoples called it ‘Qutun,’ which is where we get the word cotton.

There are several major types of cotton such as American Pima cotton, China, Egyptian, Indian and Sea Island. Cotton fibres have a fairly uniform width of 12-20 µ (2 – 5 denier). The chemical composition of cotton is as follows:

· cellulose 91.00%

· water 7.85%

· protoplasm, pectin’s 0.55%

· waxes, fatty substances 0.40%

· mineral salts 0.20%

The quality of cotton towels is determined by the gsm (grams per square metre). Poor quality towels have a gsm of 200 - 300. Superior quality towels have a gsm of 400 and 600. The more grams per square metre are an indication that the towel is more absorbent and longer lasting.

Be cognizant that with some towel ling the nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in it. Applying too much pressure on the towel you may produce some fine scratches or swirls. Be cognizant that whenever you use an abrasive you will cause scratches on the paint surface, they may be invisible to the naked eye but they are there nonetheless

Removing Wax / Sealants

The polyester and polyamide content of Microfiber is typically; a blend of 80% polyester (a scrubbing fibre) and 20% polyamide (an absorbing fibre).The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate, this is what makes them so good at cleaning. These are some of the reasons I like the concept of microfiber, but I've yet to see a consistency in their quality as most are produced to a price not a quality specification.

Microfiber towel - made from polyester/polyamide will remove product (wax and polymer sealant, etc.) as they actually lift the wax from the surface you are cleaning and then store the particle or liquid in the towel. They hold these foreign materials in their web of hooks until they are washed in warm water where the fibres relax and release these materials (that’s why they are so good at cleaning without the use of chemicals). The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave.

Conversely the same attributes that make Microfiber so good at cleaning have an adverse effect when applying wax. A polymer sealant forms a molecular bond with the paint surface, so when you remove it, you are removing excess product. An organic wax however, does not form a bond with the paint surface but merely adheres to it, forming a chain-link type coating.

Cotton Towel - high thread count, 100% cotton lint-free, with limited absorption so saves on product These detailing towels with a terrycloth weave are spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing. A 100% cotton towel will leave enough of the wax behind to enable it to form a surface coating.

Note - a terry weave towel has slight abrasive ability, which may be useful with some cleaning products

Be cognizant of the material (s) used to bind the edges of the towel (Microfiber or 100% cotton) These are much more likely to cause surface marring than the towel itself, the solution is to ensure they are paint friendly or remove the edge binding. These towels will not scratch, however trapped grit or debris will cause paint surface scratches.

I can't say enough about cotton towelling for removing organic waxes. While Microfiber has some advantages over 100% cotton I have always been an advocate for the use of 100% cotton fibre towels for the application and removal of wax products. For some cotton towelling is a thing of past.

But for many of the required tasks involved with the application or removal of organic waxes cotton seems to me to be the ideal choice, I just couldn't find anything that could out perform an all-around old fashion 100% cotton micro fibre towel.

Swissvax, Victoria Wax and Zymol (among others) manufacture quality, lint-free 100% cotton towels (IMO one of the best of this type of towel was manufactured by a company that is no longer trading,

a) Cotton Towel - high thread count, 100% cotton lint-free, with limited absorption so saves on product These detailing towels with a terrycloth weave are spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing. A 100% cotton towel will leave enough of the wax behind to enable it to form a surface coating.

Note - a terry weave towel has slight abrasive ability, which may be useful with some cleaning products

Be cognizant of the material (s) used to bind the edges of the towel (over locked, serge, blunt cut, laser cut, ultrasonic cut, silk edge, microfiber edge, suede edge, satin edge, and many other combinations of style and material).These are much more likely to cause surface marring than the towel itself, the solution is to ensure they are paint friendly or better yet, remove the edge binding

100% Cotton Terry Towel; this type of weave is also ideal for removing oxidation as it provides a gentle form of abrading action that will either be the sole means of abrasion or add to whatever the abrasive your using

Swissvax Cotton Towel - high quality Swissvax Cleaner Towel is made from high thread-count 100% pure cotton, with long fibres. These towels aren't sized nor are chemicals applied to make them ‘fluffy’, this naturally soft surface won't cause micro-abrasions or swirls Specially woven in Germany along with protected edges, for easy distinction, Swissvax has coloured the Cleaner Towel black and the Wax Towel red.

Zymöl Buffing Towels - made from high thread count 100% pure cotton, which is excellent for safely bringing out a deep shine from your latest waxing, woven from 100% terry cloth cotton, with no harmful silicone or other synthetic content. These towels feature a thick loft that naturally draws excess wax and particles up and into the cloth. Unlike all other cotton towels, Zymöl Buffing Towels aren't chemically fluffed (or "sized"), making a naturally softer surface that won't cause micro-abrasions or swirls

Victoria Wax -both the matting and loops are of 100% cotton, a combination that is hard to find now days. Dyed blue for colour coding and ease of keeping separate from other towelling; these towels get better every time it is laundered and it is just right in thickness and weight.

Zaino Blond Border free Towel – 16 x 16-inch border free design, 100% cotton towel won’t scratch, safe scratch-free and efficient buffing of product

Zaino Custom Polish Applicator – a specially designed 100% virgin cotton polish applicator, approximately 4 x 5 - inches square, with special reversed stitching to prevent scratching of paint surfaces. The 100% virgin cotton material features the finest texture and softest nap available. The cotton surface surrounds a special silicone free, sponge insert. Slightly dampen your applicator with a light mist of water, before applying wax to the applicator. This technique will make product spread further and more evenly and ensure that applicator is soft. After use, hand wash applicator

Scratch Protector - towels are made from premium low-twist, super-absorbent, 100% Cotton fibre, with a 100% cotton hem, making it super soft, lint-free, and extremely durable. The deep nap acts as a shield, providing extra surface protection from harmful particles, dirt and pollutants. The towels are also designed without a tag to ensure only 100% cotton is touching your delicate surfaces.

E-Cloth (Micro fibre)

Each cloth is made from multi-stranded fibres that actually absorb dirt and bacteria, locking them into the fabric of the cloth, giving far better cleaning performance in that they pick up more than ordinary cloths combined with chemicals which, rather than absorbing soil and grime just push them around the surface, leaving a residue that in turn attracts more dirt

Machine washable over 300 times; dependent upon use, this should give a ‘life’ of three plus years of superior cleaning performance. Better for the environment as you don’t need harsh chemicals when using the e-cloth system saving you money by not having to use sprays and chemicals etc. a whole new way of cleaning - E-Cloth.com

Micro fibre Care

Not all towels are created equal, and many are a mixture of polyester and cotton, with polyester edging that will scratch paint. Domestic bath towels are washed several times by the manufacturer to remove excess dye. Unfortunately, this leaves the towel looking limp and used. So, manufacturers then "size" the towel to make it look more attractive and new again. This "sizing" process uses a starch and silicone mixture that will scratch and contaminate your paint finish.

Be cognizant that Microfiber degrades over time; the amount of useful life is dependent on, quality, the chemicals used for washing and the drying method used. Heat will cause the fine hooks to become rounded, making them less effective, thus, causing very fine micro marring swirl marks that become visible with over use of a degraded Microfiber towel.

Proper care is simple; to ensure your towels and buffing cloths provide long-term use, wash them frequently after every use and as soon as possible.

Microfiber filaments are positively charged, while dust and dirt carry a negative charge. Never expose them to fabric softener. It can weaken the static charge of the filaments and reduce their effectiveness.

Regardless of material type or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch, micro fibre has attractant properties, that is dirt, dust, and various other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using towels on your paint

Towel Cleaning / Care

Three types of energy are required;

1. Chemical energy- provided by the synthetic cleaner

2. Mechanical energy - (agitation) provide by machine or hand

3. Thermal energy -provided by warm or hot water; heated water breaks down water-soluble soiling faster as it reduces overall chemical usage because it reduces the surface tension.

Before using any towels for the first time;

· Remove labels / tags

· Check for towel colour fastness before washing

· Wash towels before using to remove chemical sizing (used to plump up fibres)

· Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore high efficiency (HE) washer safe) without softener, bleach, whiteners.

Be cognizant that although most of us consider Microfiber to be almost indestructible it needs proper care to ensure it keeps working the way it should and to maintain its durability. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids and chemicals (solvents, wax, polymers, and etc.)

The detergent used to clean them must be strong enough to remove the chemicals without harming the fibres. The methods used for towel drying are equally important, high heat plus the agitation of an automatic dryer can round the edges of the microscopic hooks, rendering them ineffective

Wash Towels after use

Always wash towels as soon as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the contaminants will set. The chemicals used in car care products will negatively affect the fibres structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful life. Residual chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will cause scratches.

Glass Drying Towels

Towels used for cleaning glass should always be washed separately to ensure there is no cross contamination of oils, waxes and etc. as this is the one of the causes of glass streaking

Washing – use these towels exclusively for glass and wash them with hot water (no detergents) and one cup vinegar (Heinz® All Natural Cleaning Vinegar) the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH 2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Any kind of laundry soap will leave residue that remains in the micro-fibre, which will then leave streaks, smears or haze.

Rinsing – after washing them in vinegar, re-wash with just clean water ... just to be 100% sure there's no soap residue in the micro-fibre use baking soda (Church and Dwight Arm & Hammer™) add 1/2 cup to the rinse cycle to freshen towels

Drying

Air dry or use low heat machine dry

Refresh Towels

Over time, towels build up detergent residue, leaving them unable to absorb as much water. Refresh them by washing them once with hot water and one cup vinegar, then a second time with hot water and half cup sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO₃) or baking soda (Church and Dwight - Arm & Hammer™). This strips the residue and leaves them fresh and restores their absorbency.

Lint

Towel Storage

I would recommend storing clean / dry towels into a sealed dust-free environment whilst not in use. Lidded plastic storage boxes are ideal in this respect like those rubber/plastic ones with the snap on lids. You can also store clean / dry towels in a Ziploc® Brand Storage Bag. Worth repeating store DRY towels only, otherwise they will attract mould fungus

Debris Caught in Fibres

Micro fibre towels are designed to hold onto various types of contaminants that can scratch a prized car; they need to be inspected after each washing, especially if there is any chance they might have been dropped or picked up some tree particles from the car. You could try using a tack cloth to pick out small particulates from the fibres. Even if your towels have never been dropped, if you wash them with towels that have, debris is potentially inside the washing machine drum

Lint or Fibre Shedding

Quality Microfiber towels are split to produce millions of tiny fibre “hooks" on the surface of the towel. If the weave is too broad or the pile is too high, some of these fibres break off when the towel is used. Fibre shedding can be caused by a myriad of factors and it’s not an uncommon to experience, if a towel starts to shed fibres excessively then there is a problem that should be resolved

This can be excessive if the manufacturer is trying to produce an inexpensive, split towel and is using a wide weave to reduce the amount of Polyester / Polyamide in the towel (the most common ration 70 /30%) Washing the towels before being used will help alleviate problem lint, also clean the lint screen before and after every wash session (See “Washing / Care Directions)

Do not overload washer or dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres to weaken and lint, the mechanical agitation of a tumble dryer may cause the fibres to weaken and cause them to break free or lint. Given the above, over time towels will lint

Nothing will remove lint out of a new towel better than a few spin cycles in the dryer. Washing also makes your towels softer and more absorbent.

Remember to clean the lint trap before and after each drying cycle. A good wash formula is 1 cup of white vinegar with ½ cup of detergent. This will help release lint, break the towels in, and keep them fresh.

It is also useful to soak new towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with ½ of detergent. Keep in mind that colour dyed towels, because of chemical penetration into the fibre, are less absorbent than non-dyed towels.

Drying

Air dry or use low / medium heat in a tumble dryer, adding two ‘Dryer Ball’ will help plump up the fibres, when they are ‘almost’ dry remove and allow to air dry, shake and then fold them for storage’ Some towels with bound edges are not suitable to be high heat dried, typically those with satin or stitched edges as they tend to shrink, pulling the towelling fabric

Notes:

1. Lint or fibre shedding – a dryer ball (Life Miracle® Dryer System™) seem to help as they fluff up the fibres and lessen the static that is the main cause of Microfibers trapping lint. Lint may also be trapped in the machine’s lint screen and its being transferred to the towel.

2. For problematic wax only towels - try using very cold water to make the solidified wax brittle, then wash with hot again.

3. Mixing Fabrics - Do not wash micro fibre cloths / towels with other non- micro fibre fabrics, as they will pick up lint from other fabrics. Air dry or you can dry micro fibre cloths / towels in any dryer on low heat, remove them before they are still damp (cuts down on static charge) Colours may bleed during first washing

4. Static – to avoid static build-up remove towels from machine while they are still a little damp and air-dry

5. Melting point - of polyester 480 – 570.^OF (250-300°C) so hot drying will not harm its fibres

Streaking or Non-Absorbent

· This could be due to the polymers (silicone) used in quick detailers (QD) or drying aid sprays, use vinegar in the final rinse

· If a micro fibre towel tends to ‘streak’ or is no longer absorbent; boil the towels in water / distilled white vinegar (1/4-cup / gal) solution for at least 20 minute, this will soften the fibres, and release any wax / polish residue. This will also release any lint, which will actually come to the surface of the water.

· Pre-soak in a liquid detergent / water and then squeeze out wax/polish with your hands and rinse thoroughly.

· Allow micro fibre towels to boil for twenty (20) minutes (ensure that water does not fully evaporate) you will find that more wax / polish residue comes out even after a towel has been thoroughly washed. Use something to push the towels to the bottom of the pan before you empty out the water and then remove the towel, don't do it the other way or you'll re-introduce residue to the towel

The melting point of nylon is ~ 493.^oF (256 °C) so boiling 12.^oF (100°C) will not harm its fibres (however high heat may affect the material used for binding the edges)

100% Cotton Micro Fibre Towels

In my opinion natural fibres are far less likely to scratch than synthetic blends, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.

Most cotton drying towels are not 100% cotton in reality, most use a polyester binding and thread that could scratch paint. Some manufacturers chemically “sized” their towels to appear fluffier and more attractive on the shelf, which leaves the towel surface stiff and prone to causing scratches.

Once this type of fabric is washed two or three times, to remove any short fibres it will not leave a lint trail. The principal structural chemical in cotton, wood, and most other plants is actually cellulose consisting of many small molecules linked together (monomers) in a chain or lattice like structure; both linen and cotton are natural plant fibres. Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with cotton thread, not polyester.

Swisswax Waschpudel – woven from 100% cotton yarn, wash after each use in a washing machine at a low temperature (40 °C) using a non-biological liquid detergent (avoid soap powders and detergents containing bleach or fabric softeners). Hang up and allow to dry naturally (avoid all sources of heat), and store in a dry, dust-free environment whilst not in use

Zymöl Buffing Towels and Swissvax Cleaner Towel are woven from 100% terry cloth cotton, with no synthetic content; they are more absorbent and plusher than most store brought cotton towels. They feature a thick loft that naturally draws excess wax and particles up and into the nap of the towel. They aren’t chemically fluffed (or "sized"), making a naturally softer surface that won't cause micro-abrasions or swirls.

Autoglym Perfect Polishing Cloths - super soft 100% cotton, lightweight material, free of synthetic fibres and with exactly the right degree of density and absorbency for polishing fine surfaces. Any enthusiast demanding a perfect finish will naturally wish to use the best tool for the job. Autoglym Perfect Polishing Cloth is the perfect tool.

The smaller the diameter of the yarn, the softer the fabric will feel, however this does not mean that its non-abrasive and will not cause scratches (this softness can also be chemically induced) The most important criteria for any fabric used on a vehicle surface is its quality and scratch resistance. Natural cellulose can be spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, were the loops are trimmed to produce a fine nap (ideal for glass cleaning).

Application - tuck in ends to form a pad and hold in the palm of the hand. This will apply an even pressure over the surface being polished. Change to a clean area of cloth as you move to different sections of the vehicle to avoid smearing dirt from one section to another

Egyptian cotton:

The term Egyptian cotton is usually applied to the extra-long staple cotton, produced in Egypt and favoured for the luxury and up market brands worldwide. Cotton in general has unique characteristics but Egyptian cotton in particular is unique.

· Length- Egyptian cotton is long in fibre, which enables the making of the finest yarn without destroying its strength.

· Size - 12-20 µ (micron); length varies from 0.5 - 2.5-inches

· Strength / Durability- Egyptian cotton products are more resistant to stress and therefore live longer.

· Absorbency / Softness - because Egyptian cotton has a very high ability to absorb liquids and is extremely soft to the touch, it is widely used in the manufacturing of high end household textiles.

· Handpicked - Egyptian cotton, being handpicked, puts no stress on the fibre, and that is the reason why the products are more durable.

Prima Cotton

Theses cotton towels are exceptionally soft, super absorbent terrycloth. The fabric is woven from a blend of microfiber cotton and Pima Cotton; no artificial fibres of any kind are used in the weaving or sewing of this product. But pay attention to the edge bindings as they can be a potential cause of surface scratches Quality towels edge bindings are sewn with cotton thread, not polyester. (For more information on cotton) - http://www.supima.com/faq/index.htm

100% Cotton vs. Micro fibre

Micro fibre – (Microfiber) towels are made from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre) and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre) will remove product due to its inherent properties.

The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave. Water, being hydrophilic also adheres to micro fibre. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids.

100% cotton - this detailing towel is made entirely of a blend of micro fibre cotton and pima cotton, 100% Cotton (50% Cotton /50% Pima Cotton) Its scratch resistance has a lot to do with the way the fibres (12-20 µ (micron)); are processed and spun, there are too many factors to be able to say conclusively that natural fibres will not cause scratches and artificial fibres will. In my opinion, however, natural fibres are far less likely to scratch, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.

Regardless of material type or quality, a dirty micro fibre, or a 100% Cotton towel will scratch, Micro fibre has attractant properties, that is dirt, dust, and various other substances cling to it, which is one of the reasons that it works so well, but it is also a reason why you need to be extra careful when using towels on your paint

In my opinion, however, natural fibres are far less likely to scratch than synthetic (nylon) blends, flannel or cotton flannel is a very tight weave and it could scratch as it mats down easily, always try to stay with a terrycloth weave.

Removing Wax / Sealants

Water, being hydrophilic adheres to micro fibre; in comparison to cotton, a Micro (polyamide) fibre will absorb 98% liquids and moisture, while cotton can only absorb 70% at most

a) A Microfiber towel made from polyester/polyamide will remove product due to its inherent properties (that’s why they are so good at cleaning without the use of chemicals). The polyester and polyamide are combined during weaving to create microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave.

These very fine fibres have little 'hook like claws' that reach into the tiniest of crevices, pulling out dirt, dust, grease, grime, and even bacteria. They hold these foreign materials in their web of weaves until they are washed in warm water where the fibres relax and release these materials.

Cotton Towel - 100% cotton micro fibre with terrycloth weave, spun with long staple cotton and then woven into 100% natural looped terrycloth or velour, the larger fibre loop size that makes up the towels nap are trimmed to produce a fine nap, ideal for buffing and leaving behind a coating on the paint surface.

I would like to think that these articles become an asset to anyone who is new to detailing and to professionals alike, as well as industry experts who seek to advance their knowledge.

I hope the above article was informative. By having some understanding of the ‘What’ and ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ along with a little science to help you understand how the chemicals we use react, you can achieve the results you desire.

I would appreciate it if you would share this article as it helps other detailers further their knowledge.

Questions and/ or constructive comments are always appreciated.

TOGWT

Sunday, 17 May 2015

Towels used for Detailing

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